Its also some times the spring on the chargeing handel i taped a cut piece of ruber band to the upper revicer on the inside of the lpwer were the chargeing hadel spring sits and the dinging sound was dampend enough to were its not noticed and some times its the main aeg spring is just a hair short my buddys predator makes that dinging sound were another guy useing the same one but newer dosent make that sound
Thank you for your insight! I live in a small town with not many players. I have had a lot of life experience that helps with teching, but I knew nothing about airsoft tech when I found your channel. Our little group now has some sweet, well tuned, and fun to play with, guns. Thank you!
You are very knowledgeable in this field of work. You are down to earth unlike some techs on CZcams who think they're the best. Anyway, thank you for your channel. I appreciate you!
For everyone who wants some advanced specs on why bldc motors are better than brushed motors, go watch the vidoe from reapers airsoft hes german but he should have english subs, he reallly goes in dept into effiency and current draw its really interesting
@@ShadowRegimeAirsoft it's a good system I enjoy it in my dsg p90 that uses a warfet and an option no 1 motor. The only issue I've found is high rof causes the cutoff cam to not reset properly sometimes with the micro switch so the trigger will go dead. I feel like it needs the springs somehow molded into the trigger switch and the cutoff lever so they always maintain contact with the p90s stupid extended cutoff lever that can have alot of play and not be that precise with high cycling semi and auto
I can't believe it, I have worked on both the nightmare guns that had issues with and can confirm both are pain in the in asses. The 10+ year old G&P M4 I'm still working on has the exact pinion to bevel height issue I'm grinding my teeth on, it's infuriating.
I have 3 brushless motors now (2 warheads on their way) they are far superior. Way less heat and current than a brushed motor on the same setup. And they are rebuildable and take a VERY long time to wear
um... what is there to wear? "Brushless" is superior because there is no contacts and is maintenance free at least the 20 I own are. Now with that being said maybe there is some major difference in a RC brushless motor and what is used for airsoft but I wouldn't understand why there would be. Maybe you mean the gear or shaft wears out and that would make sense.
"Whatever you do, stay away from version 3 gearboxes with medium type motors." - He says this as I stare nervously over at my boneyard ICS Sig552 I have in my queue to work on, lol.
The main reason that brushless motors are really expensive, for example, option 1. Or even warhead, is because they come with mosfets pre built in along with battery protection, load protection and more. So yes you could buy a DC motor and a mosfet but then you would have only the mosfet and a lesser reliable motor. So in the end, it's the DC motor and fet that will cost you more down the road.
Warhead comes with integrated Electric Speed Controller, I don't think it has mosfet built in it. Mosfet makes your trigger not to run all of the current through your trigger contacts. It is remote switch.
First reply is correct, they're not MOSFET's, they use an ESC (just like an RC) and all brushless ESC's have low voltage cutoff to prevent damage to the motor or the ESC itself.
I don't know why airsoft brushless motors are Soo expensive. I build/built rc cars and trucks and fpv quad copters with brushless motors and thier cheap compared to one for an airsoft gun.
Hi. What oil do you use? I personaly love HHS Fluid from Würth, as it resist high centrifugal forces and stays on gears for very long time. Kinda changed my game. Keep up the great content. Cheers.
Warhead brushless motors are problematic. I have one, and just finished the SSG that it goes in just yesterday. Tested it and it makes that click sound like the active braking is off or like the gearbox locks up… but they work great otherwise…
When installing a brushless motor, how do i know if it will or wont break my gun? (I have a regular krytac LMG, looking to install a ADV High torque long motor)
Hello, I have a question I can't find on the Net. Is it good or not to use Active Brake together with Precocking or Cycle Completion? Is there chance for interference when using them together? I have bluFET and I don't have percentage/time of the strength for AB or precocking and cycle completion. I can turn on AB no matter if I have precocking or CC turned on but precocking and CC turn on interchangeably.
First of all love your channel made me learn how to work on my guns and I upgrades both my arp556 and crb. Ok 2 quick questions. I want to upgrade my spring in my crb and arp556. The both have a prom barrel. (Original lengths) What size guarder spring should I use with each gun to get a joule output as close to 1.2j with .30 bbs. (Restrictions in NL) Tnx again for your respons
Oh, I do have a question for you, what's your opinion on the G&P i5 gearbox? I noticed a couple people posted they were running into some problems with the gun shooting around 250 fps. One of the guys dropped it into a non G&P M4 platform and he cannot get over 250. Could it be that the air nozzle on the GP gearbox is too short and not mating to the hop up unit? If that were the case, can you change the air nozzle to a longer one? Another thing the guy said on his video after Chrono was that he hasn't tried a different spring. But according to the specs on the GP gearbox, it should be putting out at least 350 fps cause I think they come assembled with a 130 spring. I myself think it could be losing air between the air nozzle an hop up. I am interested because I just ordered 2 of the i5 gearboxes for my M4 stubby platforms and if I run into the same problem, it would be good to have a longer air nozzle on hand. Isn't the nozzle on the version 3 gearbox a bit longer than the version 2? If so, couldn't I just order a nozzle for the V3 and swap it out if I ran into a similar problem? It would probably be a good idea to check the shimming and air pressure while I have it open to install a longer nozzle if necessary correct? Again, I really appreciate your tutorials cause I learned a bunch just by watching CZcams and your detailed explanations on how to upgrade and/or fix our own aeg's. If possible, could you send me an email to this address so I don't have to leave a page long comment. Thanks for all you do! BTW, my name is Mike. Here is my email address: mbcarc@gmail.com
Don't do tech work for children. They will break whatever you build them, then you have to deal with an angry dad, give money back, or work on it every time they do something stupid.
I would look to some RC shops, they should have something for that. My motor draws 60A on semi on 12,7 V. I have Leviathan V2 optical board installed and it shows on my phone app.
When you have adult money it really isn’t a concern for how much a motor is hahaha I wanna try out the Option 1 brushless. I currently use the ASG 28 TPA with my Titan and the trigger response in semi is amazingly crisp. I mainly play indoors and they don’t allow Full Auto
@@bangerairsoft4086 Warhead sells their for 150 dollars, considering it runs 52K rpm on 11.1V that's pretty nuts. Dunno if it can pull M180, I guess with proper gearing it could.
@@bangerairsoft4086 Yeah, right? I made upgrade to my RC plane with BLDC motor and the electronics take some space, but man it goes like mad even with the tiniest motor they got. I had to reinforce the plane in order for it to not rip apart. The shape of aeg motor is specific and you need special coiling so there went a lot of design work to incorporate all in one package.
I have been trying to figure out how to mount up a BL motor and using a 1/8 scale differential pinion and it appears it should work but maybe someone will figure it out before me because $180 for a tiny BL motor is F'n highway robbery. I wouldn't spend more than $100 but $50 to $75 seems more like an honest price.
As for the GG ding sound it is not the spring the forward assist Spring will vibrate in most cases so you soak it in grease or tape it or remove it.
Thanks 🙏
Its also some times the spring on the chargeing handel i taped a cut piece of ruber band to the upper revicer on the inside of the lpwer were the chargeing hadel spring sits and the dinging sound was dampend enough to were its not noticed and some times its the main aeg spring is just a hair short my buddys predator makes that dinging sound were another guy useing the same one but newer dosent make that sound
Thank you for your insight! I live in a small town with not many players. I have had a lot of life experience that helps with teching, but I knew nothing about airsoft tech when I found your channel. Our little group now has some sweet, well tuned, and fun to play with, guns. Thank you!
Thanks for answering my question, I will be upgrading my spring and soaking my forward assist spring in grease.
You are very knowledgeable in this field of work. You are down to earth unlike some techs on CZcams who think they're the best. Anyway, thank you for your channel. I appreciate you!
For everyone who wants some advanced specs on why bldc motors are better than brushed motors, go watch the vidoe from reapers airsoft hes german but he should have english subs, he reallly goes in dept into effiency and current draw its really interesting
Shadow regime airsoft makes an upgraded trigger unit for the p90 that is way easier to tech on especially for dsging
I've always though about sending airsoft tech an M-Trigger sample but haven't done it yet. Been watching his channel forever!
@@ShadowRegimeAirsoft it's a good system I enjoy it in my dsg p90 that uses a warfet and an option no 1 motor. The only issue I've found is high rof causes the cutoff cam to not reset properly sometimes with the micro switch so the trigger will go dead. I feel like it needs the springs somehow molded into the trigger switch and the cutoff lever so they always maintain contact with the p90s stupid extended cutoff lever that can have alot of play and not be that precise with high cycling semi and auto
@@ShadowRegimeAirsoft I’m all ears if you want to send me one for my P90. 😜
5:39 AirsoftTech's everyday carry is a stim pistol. Confirmed.
I can't believe it, I have worked on both the nightmare guns that had issues with and can confirm both are pain in the in asses. The 10+ year old G&P M4 I'm still working on has the exact pinion to bevel height issue I'm grinding my teeth on, it's infuriating.
I have 3 brushless motors now (2 warheads on their way) they are far superior. Way less heat and current than a brushed motor on the same setup. And they are rebuildable and take a VERY long time to wear
um... what is there to wear? "Brushless" is superior because there is no contacts and is maintenance free at least the 20 I own are. Now with that being said maybe there is some major difference in a RC brushless motor and what is used for airsoft but I wouldn't understand why there would be. Maybe you mean the gear or shaft wears out and that would make sense.
"Whatever you do, stay away from version 3 gearboxes with medium type motors." - He says this as I stare nervously over at my boneyard ICS Sig552 I have in my queue to work on, lol.
The main reason that brushless motors are really expensive, for example, option 1. Or even warhead, is because they come with mosfets pre built in along with battery protection, load protection and more. So yes you could buy a DC motor and a mosfet but then you would have only the mosfet and a lesser reliable motor. So in the end, it's the DC motor and fet that will cost you more down the road.
Warhead comes with integrated Electric Speed Controller, I don't think it has mosfet built in it. Mosfet makes your trigger not to run all of the current through your trigger contacts. It is remote switch.
@@Tomasmoravia correct
First reply is correct, they're not MOSFET's, they use an ESC (just like an RC) and all brushless ESC's have low voltage cutoff to prevent damage to the motor or the ESC itself.
@@marinusdedreu3833 Yes you still need mosfet to run 11.1 li-po properly.
@@Tomasmoravia well look at that haha, love learning new stuff on airsoft and rc hobbies everyday. Thanks for the replies guys.
Also. That is great advice on airsmithing on the side. It can be overwhelming if you allow it to be
Brushless motors are awesome!
The best channel
I don't know why airsoft brushless motors are Soo expensive. I build/built rc cars and trucks and fpv quad copters with brushless motors and thier cheap compared to one for an airsoft gun.
Hi. What oil do you use? I personaly love HHS Fluid from Würth, as it resist high centrifugal forces and stays on gears for very long time. Kinda changed my game. Keep up the great content. Cheers.
Interesting bit of advice on the V3/medium motor combo. Been very tempted by a Sig aeg in the past. Probably for the best I never took the plunge.
Ye my friend has AK with short motor and it was pain in ash so far.
Warhead brushless motors are problematic. I have one, and just finished the SSG that it goes in just yesterday. Tested it and it makes that click sound like the active braking is off or like the gearbox locks up… but they work great otherwise…
So u sayin warheads are problematic on a sample size of one cuz urs makes a clicking Sound?
@@Morketman it happens to my friends too. The fix is putting a millisecond or 2 of pre Cocking on and that fixes it.
Can you do a video on the right gears, battery and spring for the appropriate motor please
I'd call the noise the G&G makes as more of a twang than a ring
Thanks for this video
When installing a brushless motor, how do i know if it will or wont break my gun? (I have a regular krytac LMG, looking to install a ADV High torque long motor)
Hello, I have a question I can't find on the Net. Is it good or not to use Active Brake together with Precocking or Cycle Completion? Is there chance for interference when using them together? I have bluFET and I don't have percentage/time of the strength for AB or precocking and cycle completion. I can turn on AB no matter if I have precocking or CC turned on but precocking and CC turn on interchangeably.
where is the brushless motor video!??!
i look your thumbnail. is krytac 30k motor is suck?
First of all love your channel made me learn how to work on my guns and I upgrades both my arp556 and crb.
Ok 2 quick questions.
I want to upgrade my spring in my crb and arp556. The both have a prom barrel. (Original lengths)
What size guarder spring should I use with each gun to get a joule output as close to 1.2j with .30 bbs. (Restrictions in NL)
Tnx again for your respons
The ding sound on the g&g is actually the forward assist not the spring
Nice Content Keep it up ispiring like me starting on Becoming a Gun tech💪
Oh, I do have a question for you, what's your opinion on the G&P i5 gearbox? I noticed a couple people posted they were running into some problems with the gun shooting around 250 fps. One of the guys dropped it into a non G&P M4 platform and he cannot get over 250. Could it be that the air nozzle on the GP gearbox is too short and not mating to the hop up unit? If that were the case, can you change the air nozzle to a longer one? Another thing the guy said on his video after Chrono was that he hasn't tried a different spring. But according to the specs on the GP gearbox, it should be putting out at least 350 fps cause I think they come assembled with a 130 spring. I myself think it could be losing air between the air nozzle an hop up. I am interested because I just ordered 2 of the i5 gearboxes for my M4 stubby platforms and if I run into the same problem, it would be good to have a longer air nozzle on hand. Isn't the nozzle on the version 3 gearbox a bit longer than the version 2? If so, couldn't I just order a nozzle for the V3 and swap it out if I ran into a similar problem? It would probably be a good idea to check the shimming and air pressure while I have it open to install a longer nozzle if necessary correct?
Again, I really appreciate your tutorials cause I learned a bunch just by watching CZcams and your detailed explanations on how to upgrade and/or fix our own aeg's. If possible, could you send me an email to this address so I don't have to leave a page long comment. Thanks for all you do!
BTW, my name is Mike. Here is my email address:
mbcarc@gmail.com
Not sure. What brushless ,odors your are looking at please let me know the majority I see average $150
Do you have any built up AEGs for sale?
i have problem with j drop in auto running dsg 9/8/1 in 1.5 j 50 rps ^^
Don't do tech work for children. They will break whatever you build them, then you have to deal with an angry dad, give money back, or work on it every time they do something stupid.
Does anybody have an easy way to modify a tappet plate spring? I can’t get it right lol
you butchered my name but no matter, im happy you replied. thank you! great video as always.
would you get the Lonex Titan Supreme?
Have you tried the new chihai motors?
Would you take on consulting work?
Nice video
Nice channel
Can you make a video on how to make an amp meter for aeg
I would look to some RC shops, they should have something for that. My motor draws 60A on semi on 12,7 V. I have Leviathan V2 optical board installed and it shows on my phone app.
Do you have a website?
When you have adult money it really isn’t a concern for how much a motor is hahaha I wanna try out the Option 1 brushless. I currently use the ASG 28 TPA with my Titan and the trigger response in semi is amazingly crisp. I mainly play indoors and they don’t allow Full Auto
There are still people paying about the same price as brushless for those M180 Satan motors, lol.
Would be nice to see the brushless come down a bit though. Even $100-$120 would be reasonable.
@@bangerairsoft4086 Warhead sells their for 150 dollars, considering it runs 52K rpm on 11.1V that's pretty nuts. Dunno if it can pull M180, I guess with proper gearing it could.
@@Tomasmoravia, $150 is even reasonable. It's still pretty early on so we are still eating some of the development costs.
@@bangerairsoft4086 Yeah, right? I made upgrade to my RC plane with BLDC motor and the electronics take some space, but man it goes like mad even with the tiniest motor they got. I had to reinforce the plane in order for it to not rip apart. The shape of aeg motor is specific and you need special coiling so there went a lot of design work to incorporate all in one package.
I have been trying to figure out how to mount up a BL motor and using a 1/8 scale differential pinion and it appears it should work but maybe someone will figure it out before me because $180 for a tiny BL motor is F'n highway robbery. I wouldn't spend more than $100 but $50 to $75 seems more like an honest price.