Dear mr Peter, this is amazing Thank you for taking the time to make 1 piece out of brass so that we could have a good look at the machining without coolant The new camera really adds a lot of value to your video's I absolutely love how you use it with the zooming in and moving etcetera Thank you for educating us once again Greetings from The Netherlands
It's amazing Peter. I have just bought two chess sets today as Christmas presents for my two sons, and the pieces are made from brass castings. The pieces are then given an "antique" finish :D . What a coincidence that you release your video on the same day! All the best to you and yours over the festive period. Cheers.
I do use a small piece of pipe in the handle. But I don’t tighten it excessively tight. I use the pipe to get a better feel more then to tighten real tight. The chuck handle has short handles. With the pipe it’s easer on the hands.
Another wonderful video Peter great camera work. The versatility of a large 5 axis machine on a small delicate piece is wonderful to watch. Quality as always. Paul UK
. I had exact same results or problem using my 4 axis cnc mill. I had to revise cam to machine the 2 sides from the one side that worked best. I traced my chatter to 4th axis backlash. I then went to cnc lathe to finish the form. I made a half dozen full sets with chess boards and storage bases as gifts for this season. BTW cool video and crazy cool cnc machine with sweet tool paths.
I think in this case the endmill is to long. Also the cut is pushing into the chuck on the back side and pulling away on the front side. The bronze seems to not like this but it is OK for the aluminum. A shorter endmill with fewer flutes and less helix with variable flutes would be better.
@@EdgePrecision I was surprised when I watched video. Its like it did same thing on his machine. I could hear it. I was doing a climb cut on front side going to chuck. Back side I tried climb or conventional and both chattered. Changed cam to flip form and do climb cut going to chuck on front side and problem was solved. Had me scratching my head. I just guessed my 4th axis needed adjusting. BTW like you when running aluminum it was fine either way. I was only doing a 0.75 deep cut with 0.5 endmill at 10% woc. And didn't expect different results in brass just like you. Your stock and form is much larger from what I could tell. Anyway cool project and I dig you multi axis machine.
Looks good Peter, nice work. I notice on some of the 5 axis moves the spindle moves pretty far away from the part and then rapids in for another cut. Is this something that the post processor puts in the code or is it from the CAM software?
That is a post safety retract, there are various ways to do it, one is a full retract as shown here, or it can retract to a safety plane that would clear the 3 jaw Chuck, or you can go risky and retract only far enough to clear the stock plus an inch or two. When you are making thousands of the same part everyday you optimize for minimum retracts , probably by hand coding, when you are making one chess set, you let the post do it the safe way (-:
Thanks Bill! As said by David the Swarfer. These are the standard retract clearance moves put in by Esprit TNG. I just left the default moves. It would be worth it, to reduce these. If you were running many parts. But just for a few it's safer this way. It also gives me time to change camera posistions.
What do you call this Sorcery ? And pray tell - what would you recommend for a highschooler to prepare himself for a career in this field ? ( Math - 3D Art /Perspective Drafting / Solidworks /AutoCAD / Machine language ? ) I assume one leads to another and of course - job training and working in the field for 10 years - would give valuable experience by the time one is in their late 20's.....In your opinion, which part of this is the most valuable skillset to learn from the start. nice video - good job
The camera work with the camera mounted on the spindle was so cool! Nice job. The chatter thing, have you tried tools with uneven flute spacing? We have a very low rigidity CNC bridgeport and with even flute spacing anything over 6mm chatters like hell, with uneven we can run up to 12mm. Makes a HUGE difference. YG1 4G for Heavy Roughing, part code is SEME71XXX..... It's our stock end mill type now.
It was a tool I already had not the best. A shorter tool would be better. And as you say a variable helix and flute spacing. I think the reason it chatters on the front and not the back is the way the tool pushes into the part and chuck on the back. But is pulling the part away in the front. The part has more rigidity when pushing into it to damp out the vibration.
Hi Peter, I have been a long time fan of your channel! I am a full time pastor and part time machinist and I have so far used exclusively Hurco vertical milling centers. I just bought a 1999 Integrex 200SY. It has the fusion 640MT controller so I'm betting a bunch of The controls will be similar to your machine. I don't know if it's worth your time but I sure would love some videos on just the basics of how to operate that machine powered up home it et cetera et cetera.
Thank you pastormarkm! My machine has a 640m Pro control. So it should be very similar (I think) to yours. I will keep that in mind for a future video. I don't know can that control do full simultaneous 5 axis type of work. Or is it more a positional 5 axis. Have you run the machine at all? Also do you plan to use just the Mazatrol to program or are you going to use some cam software?
and then a laser etched slab of granite countertop for the board. I'd def. go with bronze for the weight, or pour lead in a base entry void/cavity, and a felt circle cover.
The aluminum pieces this size have a good weight to them. The brass/bronze might actually be a tad to heavy. At least lifting the aluminum knight compared to the bronze one gives me that impression. Also the price of bronze/brass is very expensive in the 2.0" and 1.75" diameters required for the parts. But the granite cold be a god idea. There are many granite places close to me.
Well done on the Knight! The challenge would be can you make a whole matching set?? That would be the ultimate!? I look forward to you doing just that! That would be worth much!
Nice Knights :) Did you clamp the turning spindle when you did the trochoidal cuts and the finish pass that had chatter? I'm just curious because sometimes I had issues with chatter that resulted from the clamping. Especially when the chatter was not symmetrical like in your case.
Yes it was clamped. But that spindle is so large is would not have mattered. No what caused the unbalance is the cutting forces pushing different ways on the part. In the back the force is directed into the chuck and spindle. On the front it’s directed away and pushing the part back. Also the bronze material is very grippy on tools. You probably have seen when a drill grips in brass and bronze to pull the tool into it. Also my tool a 5 flute high helix and it is to long. Not the best but it’s what I had. A shorter four flute standard helix with a variable pitch and flute would be better.
I would keep the machine marks. Did you maybe find enough bronze to make a half set? Bronze and Aluminum set... wow. I'm hoping one of the CZcams woodworkers will gift an appropriate board ;) If it's not going to grow into a set, the bronze figure would make nice front desk art in the hotel.
Thanks! If that were so the Square size would be 2.25". And yes I plan to make a complete set out of Aluminum. Anodize black and clear. I do sort of have a plan for the board out of metal. But one comment'r suggested Granite. That could be good also.
The whole thing is being climb milled the back and the front. It’s not the climb milling that’s causing the problem. First the tool could be shorter. Also a high helix endmill with 5 flutes isn’t the best tool either for this. But it’s the tool I had. When cutting on the back side the force of the cut is into the part and chuck. On the front it’s pushing the part back and away from the chuck/spindle. A less rigid way. The combination of the bronze and what I just described is causing this vibration. A shorter 4 flute variable pitch tool would be the way to go. Also as you say rotating the part to climb mill only on the back side would also be good.
In general for a part like this. I do turning first. Then I basically run the largest tools to the smallest tool. That more or less determines the order of operations. If the part has threads I generally do them last if possible.
There is a reason bells are made out of bronze. I think it's a combination of that and the way the endmill is pushing on the part. On the back side the cutting force is directed into the part and fixture and on the front its pulling away. The same thing happened with the aluminum to a lesser degree. So when the finish pass ran (in the aluminum) it cut it away. Also running the long 5 flute and high helix tool I'm using is not the most ideal for these materials. But it was the tool that I already had. I think I will use a different tool for the next ones. Thanks!
No in this case I'm using to long of an endmill (The tool I had). A shorter tool would help. Also I don't think the type of tool is good for the bronze. It works OK in the aluminum but a standard helix four flute with a variable helix and flute spacing would work better for both materials. The thing with high helix endmills with a lot of flutes. There is too much flute contact with the work when cutting. A lower helix with fewer flutes works better in materials you can run higher speed on. The 5 or more flute high helix tools are better for exotic materials that require slow speed. So you get a shearing cut and also let you increase your feed rate at the slower speed.
Peter, I think the chatter on the bronze is due to the fact that you used a coated cutter for this operation. I think with uncoated or even HSS you won't have chatter. The coated ones are a kind of dull from start because of the coating. They last longer in uggly material but for this light cutting operation I think uncoated wouldn't cause any problems/chatter. Just my two cents. But wonderful job as always! Thank you Peter! All the best, Job
All the cuts in the program were climb milling. On a CNC machine I almost never program a conventional type cut. I think what’s more likely is the cut on one side is starting at the end of the part and the other is starting at it’s base and going toward the end.
Would be awesome to get a video on how you modeled it. Awesome work!
Thank you for all the work it takes to film and edit this! The part looks terrific too; hopefully this is a nice project to wrap up a year!
Dear mr Peter, this is amazing
Thank you for taking the time to make 1 piece out of brass so that we could have a good look at the machining without coolant
The new camera really adds a lot of value to your video's I absolutely love how you use it with the zooming in and moving etcetera
Thank you for educating us once again
Greetings from The Netherlands
It's amazing Peter. I have just bought two chess sets today as Christmas presents for my two sons, and the pieces are made from brass castings. The pieces are then given an "antique" finish :D . What a coincidence that you release your video on the same day!
All the best to you and yours over the festive period. Cheers.
Those were some really cool camera angles. As always, extremely impressive work👍
We subscribers always knew there was craftsman and a great machinist there. We now know there's an artist in residence. Great stuff!
I'm just a fan of machining with no experience. I really appreciate all of your videos. This one was excellent, thanks Peter.
Really love the 5 axes at work video. Just watching the mill do its thing is so fun. The camera work is nice too.
Great job.
You really out-did yourself on the cinematography in this one.
The camera work makes it look like CGI. So cool.
Now this was all kinds of cool. Nice part, and those camera movements was certainly unexpected, but a fine touch.
Absolutely brilliant. Wish I could make my own chess pieces like that. Well done sir.
THIS CAMERA WORK IS INCREDIBLE
Also for the 2nd chuck do you use a cheater bar to tighten it or is bare handed enough for what you do with it?
I do use a small piece of pipe in the handle. But I don’t tighten it excessively tight. I use the pipe to get a better feel more then to tighten real tight. The chuck handle has short handles. With the pipe it’s easer on the hands.
@@EdgePrecision Can you please share CAM file?
At the 5-minute mark it looks like the machine head is standing back and admiring his work cheers
Another wonderful video Peter great camera work. The versatility of a large 5 axis machine on a small delicate piece is wonderful to watch. Quality as always. Paul UK
This new camera set-up has me tripping my balls off its so fucking cool to watch.
The perspective from the vertical spindle is awesome. It's like a rollercoaster ride!
Best maching vid i have seen in a while. Lovely camera angles. Nice work. Respect
Nice, saw your Instagram post a few hours ago, and now this popped up on my CZcams front page :)
Beautiful job Peter, I hope your chess board is as beautiful as those pieces.
Perfect job with perfect camera angles with perfect perfect perfect. Thanks for this superb video.
Such a badass Mazak. More importantly, a badass who knows how to use it.
WOW! the 5 ax footage with the camera on the spindle was great!
Excellent Video! Loved the 5 axis shots!
Amazing work! Thanks for the fun project
That knight would be cool as a trophy for a chess competition, slightly bigger, maybe.
Fancy camera work, and good looking part!
Awesome Peter, cant wait to see the whole set complete!
Very impressive. I like how you did the ears.
Can’t wait to see more and the finished set! Way Cool!
Thanks!
Wow thank you!
No thanks required Peter I enjoy everything that you put out you’re just amazing individual
Top shelf work! Love the camera. Keep it up Peter!
Nice machining and awesome cinematography, like the 360
Thanks for this! Just saw the other video last night (knight?) and now this. Very cool.
Svaka cast majstore
Love the videos I like seeing the way do your work Thank you
Somebody's getting a very cool present for Christmas!
Awsome:) 5 axis milling is magical, hard to stop watching. Shots from tool viev look very nice, like action movie. Regards.
Love your materials, thank you.
You are the Spielberg of technics!
That 360 camera is awesome
And the academy award for the best use of a 3d camera goes to.... Edge Precision! :D
Excellent video would love to see some more of these being made!!!
I am currently working on a video for the real chess parts in the set. Thanks!
. I had exact same results or problem using my 4 axis cnc mill. I had to revise cam to machine the 2 sides from the one side that worked best. I traced my chatter to 4th axis backlash. I then went to cnc lathe to finish the form. I made a half dozen full sets with chess boards and storage bases as gifts for this season. BTW cool video and crazy cool cnc machine with sweet tool paths.
I think in this case the endmill is to long. Also the cut is pushing into the chuck on the back side and pulling away on the front side. The bronze seems to not like this but it is OK for the aluminum. A shorter endmill with fewer flutes and less helix with variable flutes would be better.
@@EdgePrecision I was surprised when I watched video. Its like it did same thing on his machine. I could hear it. I was doing a climb cut on front side going to chuck. Back side I tried climb or conventional and both chattered. Changed cam to flip form and do climb cut going to chuck on front side and problem was solved. Had me scratching my head. I just guessed my 4th axis needed adjusting. BTW like you when running aluminum it was fine either way. I was only doing a 0.75 deep cut with 0.5 endmill at 10% woc. And didn't expect different results in brass just like you. Your stock and form is much larger from what I could tell. Anyway cool project and I dig you multi axis machine.
Beautiful work Peter
How did you program this? Was it Mastercam or did you hand program?
Just give it a very light glass blast and they will all look perfect and uniform.
Looks good Peter, nice work. I notice on some of the 5 axis moves the spindle moves pretty far away from the part and then rapids in for another cut. Is this something that the post processor puts in the code or is it from the CAM software?
That is a post safety retract, there are various ways to do it, one is a full retract as shown here, or it can retract to a safety plane that would clear the 3 jaw Chuck, or you can go risky and retract only far enough to clear the stock plus an inch or two. When you are making thousands of the same part everyday you optimize for minimum retracts , probably by hand coding, when you are making one chess set, you let the post do it the safe way (-:
Thanks Bill! As said by David the Swarfer. These are the standard retract clearance moves put in by Esprit TNG. I just left the default moves. It would be worth it, to reduce these. If you were running many parts. But just for a few it's safer this way. It also gives me time to change camera posistions.
Looks Brilliant, What CAM do you use?
I program for the Mazak using Esprit TNG cam software and SpaceClaim for my cad.
Always impressive.
Amazing video and thank you for sharing with us. Just wondering, how much would a full chest set cost?
Spectacular
P-K4, very nice...if Magnus sees this, he will want a full set including the board.....thanks again, cheers
I read this title as "Machining Cheese Knight" and was very intrigued
It would be nice to buy a full set like that, with bronze, brass or copper on one side and aluminum on the other. I'm sure the price would be .....
Beautiful Peter!
Someone's going to have a nice Christmas...
What do you call this Sorcery ? And pray tell - what would you recommend for a highschooler to prepare himself for a career in this field ? ( Math - 3D Art /Perspective Drafting / Solidworks /AutoCAD / Machine language ? )
I assume one leads to another and of course - job training and working in the field for 10 years - would give valuable experience by the time one is in their late 20's.....In your opinion, which part of this is the most valuable skillset to learn from the start.
nice video - good job
Another great video.
I'll cover shipping for the bronze piece.
Very STRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great camera work. You're always trying out new things.
The camera work with the camera mounted on the spindle was so cool! Nice job.
The chatter thing, have you tried tools with uneven flute spacing? We have a very low rigidity CNC bridgeport and with even flute spacing anything over 6mm chatters like hell, with uneven we can run up to 12mm. Makes a HUGE difference. YG1 4G for Heavy Roughing, part code is SEME71XXX..... It's our stock end mill type now.
It was a tool I already had not the best. A shorter tool would be better. And as you say a variable helix and flute spacing. I think the reason it chatters on the front and not the back is the way the tool pushes into the part and chuck on the back. But is pulling the part away in the front. The part has more rigidity when pushing into it to damp out the vibration.
@@EdgePrecision ah yeah I hadn't thought of that. Surprising if that's the case given the absolute beastly size of that spindle! Awesome vid, thanks.
Gorgeous!
Amazing machine. But... creating the program, designing the model, is where the human artistic genius comes in .
Hi Peter, I have been a long time fan of your channel! I am a full time pastor and part time machinist and I have so far used exclusively Hurco vertical milling centers. I just bought a 1999 Integrex 200SY. It has the fusion 640MT controller so I'm betting a bunch of The controls will be similar to your machine. I don't know if it's worth your time but I sure would love some videos on just the basics of how to operate that machine powered up home it et cetera et cetera.
Thank you pastormarkm! My machine has a 640m Pro control. So it should be very similar (I think) to yours. I will keep that in mind for a future video. I don't know can that control do full simultaneous 5 axis type of work. Or is it more a positional 5 axis. Have you run the machine at all? Also do you plan to use just the Mazatrol to program or are you going to use some cam software?
@@EdgePrecision Thanks so much! I believe it can do full 5 axis. It is supposed to be delievered Dec 22.
This is supposed to be the same machine I have purchased except I have a sub spindle and this one does not... czcams.com/video/hyRBbGb2UDA/video.html
I plan to do some Mazatrol programs and hopefully some CAD/CAM via Fusion 360.
That's the coolest knight I've ever seen! Could you make the model(s) available some time?
Looks amazing 💫
and then a laser etched slab of granite countertop for the board. I'd def. go with bronze for the weight, or pour lead in a base entry void/cavity, and a felt circle cover.
The aluminum pieces this size have a good weight to them. The brass/bronze might actually be a tad to heavy. At least lifting the aluminum knight compared to the bronze one gives me that impression. Also the price of bronze/brass is very expensive in the 2.0" and 1.75" diameters required for the parts. But the granite cold be a god idea. There are many granite places close to me.
Well done on the Knight! The challenge would be can you make a whole matching set?? That would be the ultimate!? I look forward to you doing just that! That would be worth much!
I do have a video on making the whole set.
Mehamozg made the same piece on a manual lathe. Pretty awesome to see how he does it.
Yes! I have seen his video. A very clever way to make one on a manual machine.
Nice Knights :)
Did you clamp the turning spindle when you did the trochoidal cuts and the finish pass that had chatter?
I'm just curious because sometimes I had issues with chatter that resulted from the clamping. Especially when the chatter was not symmetrical like in your case.
Yes it was clamped. But that spindle is so large is would not have mattered. No what caused the unbalance is the cutting forces pushing different ways on the part. In the back the force is directed into the chuck and spindle. On the front it’s directed away and pushing the part back. Also the bronze material is very grippy on tools. You probably have seen when a drill grips in brass and bronze to pull the tool into it. Also my tool a 5 flute high helix and it is to long. Not the best but it’s what I had. A shorter four flute standard helix with a variable pitch and flute would be better.
I want to see you make a whole set that would be great!
Super job.
Well done
Thanx Peter!
I would keep the machine marks. Did you maybe find enough bronze to make a half set? Bronze and Aluminum set... wow. I'm hoping one of the CZcams woodworkers will gift an appropriate board ;) If it's not going to grow into a set, the bronze figure would make nice front desk art in the hotel.
Thanks! If that were so the Square size would be 2.25". And yes I plan to make a complete set out of Aluminum. Anodize black and clear. I do sort of have a plan for the board out of metal. But one comment'r suggested Granite. That could be good also.
looking great. been thinking about making a set myself.
That camera angel tho..
Very nice!
Maybe bronze rings more and aluminum is deader and that's the difference?
nice camera work, like all the angles.
Excellent video.
I thought while watching the "sides" being cut that the piece should be rotated 180 so neither side would be climb milled.
The whole thing is being climb milled the back and the front. It’s not the climb milling that’s causing the problem. First the tool could be shorter. Also a high helix endmill with 5 flutes isn’t the best tool either for this. But it’s the tool I had. When cutting on the back side the force of the cut is into the part and chuck. On the front it’s pushing the part back and away from the chuck/spindle. A less rigid way. The combination of the bronze and what I just described is causing this vibration. A shorter 4 flute variable pitch tool would be the way to go. Also as you say rotating the part to climb mill only on the back side would also be good.
Awesome work!
Always enjoy watching your content! Maybe Hans can commission you for a set with his 100M law suit earnings... lol
He’s not going to win that. Because he was more then likely cheating.
Edge Precision.
Did you punish the robot for making a lousy job?
How do you break down the geometry to come up with your strategies? I can’t imagine that’s an easy answer. I have trouble with this…
In general for a part like this. I do turning first. Then I basically run the largest tools to the smallest tool. That more or less determines the order of operations. If the part has threads I generally do them last if possible.
That was fun!
Amazing how much that aluminum dampens.
There is a reason bells are made out of bronze. I think it's a combination of that and the way the endmill is pushing on the part. On the back side the cutting force is directed into the part and fixture and on the front its pulling away. The same thing happened with the aluminum to a lesser degree. So when the finish pass ran (in the aluminum) it cut it away. Also running the long 5 flute and high helix tool I'm using is not the most ideal for these materials. But it was the tool that I already had. I think I will use a different tool for the next ones. Thanks!
Subscribed from this video! Was wondering the software used to design the pieces?
The cad software I use is SpaceClaim.
true MASTER! cam
How much for one? I don't have access to CNC and this would be a pain on my manuals. Lol
Can you please share CAM file?
only thing i could think about to make it better is to use a 2nd op to dome the bottom side in a bit so it sits firm on every surface.
What I plan to do is glue some felt to the bottom of the pieces.
Very clever, was the chatter due to a long series cutter climb milling?
No in this case I'm using to long of an endmill (The tool I had). A shorter tool would help. Also I don't think the type of tool is good for the bronze. It works OK in the aluminum but a standard helix four flute with a variable helix and flute spacing would work better for both materials. The thing with high helix endmills with a lot of flutes. There is too much flute contact with the work when cutting. A lower helix with fewer flutes works better in materials you can run higher speed on. The 5 or more flute high helix tools are better for exotic materials that require slow speed. So you get a shearing cut and also let you increase your feed rate at the slower speed.
do you play chess or you just making the pieces for fun?
Yes I do play chess. But mostly against the computer.
Peter, I think the chatter on the bronze is due to the fact that you used a coated cutter for this operation. I think with uncoated or even HSS you won't have chatter. The coated ones are a kind of dull from start because of the coating. They last longer in uggly material but for this light cutting operation I think uncoated wouldn't cause any problems/chatter. Just my two cents. But wonderful job as always! Thank you Peter! All the best, Job
Your chatter is probably from "climb milling" on one side.
All the cuts in the program were climb milling. On a CNC machine I almost never program a conventional type cut. I think what’s more likely is the cut on one side is starting at the end of the part and the other is starting at it’s base and going toward the end.
Badass!🔥🔥🔥🔥
very good job
Awesome! checkmate.