This was probably the most "down to earth and understandable" explanation of parallax I've ever seen or listened to. Well done and thanks for the no bs explanation.
Appreciate this. Thank you. Most other videos are convoluted beyond grasping. I inherited a 989m2 Marlin with a Weaver T-10. Been trying to understand parallax. "It doesn't matter that much unless you're shooting small game at 600 yards" is all I needed to know. Cheers.
Great video. Thanks for all the information. Really just confirms you don't need to buy the most expensive scope you can afford. Limiting parallax is a skill (an easy one to attain) Where you align your eye with the scope at the same place every time. And like you said, save your money for more ammo to hone that skill with.
the best way to describe parallax is how close you can have a clear scope picture with out having to back down the magnification, for example a 3 -9 x 32 with a 10 yard parallax will show a clear picture at 10 yards at a full 9 x magnification, any time you have to drop magnification to see clearly you are out of the parallax zone, the lower magnification helps compensate for fuzz but you lose magnification, the 150 yard scope he talked about will be fuzzy if closer wich forces you to drop magnification, any thing beyond 150 yards you can go for higher magnification and get a clear picture, the lower the parallax rating the better the scope is for all distances with crystal clear visibility being more adaptable to more types of shooting and having less fuzz, scope manufacturers cut out quality of the scopes, all scopes should have a low parallax. and a note about parallax error, if you see shades of black when you look in scope simply look until they disappear, also over magnification can cause parallax error, so back down until shades of black on sides dont appear, you can test parallax error by moving your eye left to right off center from reticle, if reticle moves just back off magnification or train your eye to look center, the shades of black on all sides of scope view are a warning your eye is not center with the scope, so in some ways these cloudy shades help us be more center, many people think more magnification is always better for accuracy, but not always, sometimes you can shoot better on 12 x then 24 x depending on how you deal with parallax error, so i recommend doing a series of shot groups at the same range with various magnification settings, you will be shocked to see that you do better sometimes with less magnification
I was looking down the line of parallax adjustment for use of an add on night vision unit. your eye automatically adjusts to a point where it corrects focus of reticle and objective enough, though a camera is fixed and can do with some extra help to give a clear picture for changes of distance and zooming in/out. Does this sound right? Great video and thanks
Don't know if anyone is monitoring this vid but I will ask anyway and if not I will get the answer one way or another from the guys at work. Does the adjustment method differ depending on which focal plane is used; that is 1st or 2nd? Not sure if you discussed that as it went by quickly and I will have to listen to it a number of times to get the meaning across. Thanks for the explanation.
The arrow is said to be in line with the digit 3 on the left, but on my telephone screen, it isn't. And the arrows on the right diagram also aren't pointing to the stated numbers. When I realized it, i laughed and wondered if the error is caused by the diagrams being designed for a bigger screen, and if the cause is a type of parallax.
Very well explained and dismisses is a little bit of oversimplification back when I used to teach the subject. When asked, I would always say that 'parallax is the apparent movement of an object when viewed from two separate points'. Anyway, good stuff so thanks for posting.
My rimfire scope doesn't focus at any distance unless I adjust the parallax to infinity. It doesn't matter what I do with the reticle. What am I doing wrong?
So what is focusing your scope in the sky for? I've found a VX-II 4-12 x50 second hand in Australia for a good price. I think it's parralax is set for 150 yards? I want to mount it on a rifled shotgun I'm building just for target shooting between 50 and 150 yards. Does the focusing on a clear sky help me get around the parralax error at say 50 yards?
Do all leupold second focal plane scopes have 0 parallax at 150 yards...? As many other companies seem to have a 0 parallax at 100 yards...? And on another note - if the scope has a 150 yard parallax free setup... Would it be better to set the clarity of the scope to each shooter at a 150 yard target of some sort...?
you spoke about difference it makes at longer ranges is it the same in shorter distance bun i reverse! !! eg i have a redfield revolution scope that is set parallax at 150 yards !! how much difference is there at say 50 meters ?????
Look at the chart at 6:04 that should help you. Every 300 yards is 44 mm, so a difference of 100 yards, closer or farther away, will be off by ⅓ of 44mm, which is just under 15 mm.
parallax setting is the closest distance you can see a target clearly with out drop in magnification, for example a bug buster scope has a 3 yard setting, this means at 3 yards no fuzz even with full magnification. any time you have to drop magnification to see clearly it a sign that the parallax setting is higher, for example a 3-9 x 32 with a 35 yard parallax setting will fuzz out if closer then 35 yards, this is why you have to drop magnification, but say like a bug buster scope you never have to back off magnification only adjust bell to 3 yds mark if your 3 yds, no hunting rifle or combat rifle should have any higher then a 10 yard parallax setting, the higher the parallax setting then the less options for things like aiming in the house like practicing hold and training arm muscles or in door scope adjustments like fixing a canted scope, the standing method of shooting can be practiced inside during the winter, you place dots on wall at different heights and practice your hold and aim, low dot and high dots are good so your muscles can adapt to different angles, the application is say you cant lay down and have to shoot on the run or standing, if one always does sandbag or bench rest the muscle tone goes out so that when you need to stand or be on the move you are not prepared since you will be shaky from out of tone muscles that havent been worked for standing position
libracory You mentioned combat or hunting rifles with parallax set to 10yds... what scope is set that low? I want a scope for my AR that can plink an apple at 50 yds (fun shooting) but also hit combat encounters at 10yds (home invasion). I like high magnification for the farther 50yd precision apple / golf ball plinking tasks. I know some guys will say "you should only need 3x or a red dot", but I just hate straining my eyes so much when I can simply zoom and hold it steady... why not zoom as much as you can? Do I need to find a 1-6 with closer parallax? Where should it be set at? Will there be "center hunting"/ parallax issues at 10-20 yard close combat shooting when dropped down to 1x or 1.5x or even 2x (depending on what I settle on)? I've wondered if I need a 2-7x. I've always only been a pistol shooter. I live in a city most of my life with only 30 yard indoor ranges at best. I bought my kid an ar 22 and a recommended (by the gun shop) cheap 3x9 BSA scope. She struggled (as so did I a little) with centering up her eye with the scope and then placing the reticle on the target 20yds. You get reticle wandering as well as the "black edges". We shoot the AR 22 indoors as that's the highest caliber "rifle" cartridge allowed at our range. The AR .22 will always be shot 10-30 yards. Once again, I hate straining to see the small paper target set back at 30yds. I like to zoom rather than strain. The AR 5.56/.223 will always be shot 10-50 yards (practical home/ land defense against zombie attacks)... and maybe a 100 yard shot for kicks at a range every now and then. I hear some guys call less than 100 yards CQB. For me, a city slicker, I call anything inside of 10-50 yards CQB. Any scope recommendations for both of my two rifles mentioned? I got the 7mag deer/ elk gun figured out with a fixed 10x. Thanks!
at 5:59 he says that his scope with a 44mm objective at double the in focus distance will deviate by 44mm. In other words he just put the scope body up to the target and showed that was the deviation. Every time you add 150 yds to the original 150yd in focus distance the max deviation is an extra diameter of the scope. But then in the chart at 6:07 it shows a scope with a 50mm only deviates by half of that scope objective. It says that at 300 yds there is a 25mm max deviation. They say a whole scope diamter deviation, the chart shows half a scope diameter deviation. What am I missing?
The deviation of 50 MM can be 25 left to 25 right or 25+25 equals 50 the size of the scope diameter. You are aiming at just one spot in the middle of the scope so you can deviate both left and right. Does that help?
Sounds like the standard 150yds non adjustable parallax would work just fine for you. Or if you get an adjustable one adjust it to the animal's distance.
Great video but can anyone help me i want to buy the vx-3-7x32 leupold for my airrifle i will only be shooting doves at around 30-50 yards but i see the parallax is set for 75 yards how can i re set parallax so my scope is clear and accurate at these close ranges thanks
The more things you overlook the larger your group will be, and you won't know whether to adjust for wind, elevation, or parallax. I agree, for a long distance scope, I feel parallax adjustment is pretty dang important. At least for those of us that rely heavily on hitting our target.
Absolutely, he says "at 600yds thats less than one minute" ....Yea, of JUST PARALLAX error. LMAO if he says ' yea, the bad scope mount is less than one minute' and 'yea, the bad ammo is less than one minute' and 'yea, the rotten trigger is less than one minute' pretty soon ya can't hit water from a boat. I assumed the "Leupold Parallax Video" would explain it better than saying , basically , "aw, ya don't need it anyway" LMAO
At 1:54 the picture on the right,what I am seeing is the circle appears to be in line with 2,not 1 as is written. Triangle appears to be in line with 4, not the 2 as written. What am I missing here?
When the reticle and the target are on the same plane so there is minimal or no parallax, is that when the MOA hash lines or mill dots are appropriate to the size of the target? EDIT: I just researched it and that is related to Subtension. FFP reticles have the same subtension and the MOA or Mil dot is true regardless of magnification. SFP it is usually on the highest magnification or unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.
On the diagram at 1:54 ,I don't understand how the circle and triangle are inline with 3. They appear to be in line with number 6 ,if there was a number 6. Can anyone explain what diagram is saying. Both pictures are wrong to me. Somehow I am gonna feel stupid,I can see it coming. Lol. Thanks
I just bought one of their rimfire series. I picked the FX-1, 4 by 28mm. They have variable power scopes in the rimfire selection as well but I didn't want that for my 22 mag. Fantastic fit and finish and good glass and coatings for the price point. I highly recommend them.
another way to understand parallax is simply the closest range you get a clear picture with out having to drop magnification, to find parallax of a rifle scope put magnification at highest then look through scope at close distance and walk back until you can see clearly, using a box with letters works good and the closest distance you can read letters clear is the parallax setting of scope, for example my bsa scope has a 10 yard parallax so at a full 24 x i walk away from target and shure enough at 10 yards i can read letters, the example above i gave a a much more simple way to understand parallax, if your an AR -15 shooter even if parallax is say 100 yards, for combat reasons a 1-6 x scope is practical, so you would turn down magnification at close quarters and scope would get clear, so parallax in this case would not matter as much since your not going to need a full 6 x at close quarters, but for smaller targets close range parallax is everything, for example standing indoors with your rifle scope targeting wall for muscle memory and keeping tone in arms before hunting season, this is why a utg bug buster scope with 3 yard parallax is handy, almost a perfect clear picture if you aimed at your big toe on a full 9x magnification, the close parallax helps off season in small compact spaces for aiming practice, even combat practice of aiming at multiple 1/4 inch dots while standing, this will fatigue proof you for multiple target shooting later when you can finally get to a range, and you use no ammo but get the benefit of fatigue in your arms, because shooting is in its self a light form of weight lifting, the more targets you can hit without "shooter fatigue" the better, to test your fatigue it would cost lots of money on ammo, so you can get an idea of your fatigue limits by aiming indoors at 1/4 inch dots on a wall, place dots at all levels since in real life you shoot at all angles, the angle memory need to work into your arms also, not just straight shooting and aiming.
Some scopes have infinity parallax....so what happens if you put it on that option? Will it have zero parallax at any range? Kinda confused in this aspect.
I don't think so, it's only for past the last numbered range. My scope has parallax adjustments from 50, 100, 150 ,200, 300, and 500 yards, then infinity. So anything past 500 yards is infinity I guess.
Brendan Redler that's what I just wrote in my comment. Did you ever get it figured out? It is madness I agree. Has to be misprint right? Can't believe you and me are only ones saying anything about that wording in diagram.
Perhaps I was missing something, but to me, the video failed to explain what to do when you have a non-AO scope with parallax fixed at say, 100 yards, and you are shooting at a closer or longer distance, and the reticle is moving around. What to do? The only thing that was mentioned is to set eyepiece focus once, and I guess for all distances. So, this video, like most, was not helpful to me.
The point is that he explained if its a non ao scope at fixed 150 yards(doesn't really matter the yards) you won't be off by much more than 44 mm on his example. 44mm is 1.7 inches variable. if you have perfect positioning for that 300 yards, instead of 150. you can still hit your center mark, if you're off as far off as you can go you can only go 1.7 inches off. which is not a big deal for big game hunting as they mentioned. given the ratio, i'm not a scope expert but i would imagine that being off by 75 yards, instead of 150 yards further/closer. you will only be about 22mm off at most, which is less than an inch.
the way to avoid parallax error with a fixed parallax scope is to have your head position aligned the same for every shot. if you use a camera with a mount, it has no parallax error because it is fixed in place. if you can replicate this with your eye, you don't need a parallax compensating scope...... if you want ultimate accuracy, and 1.7 inches actually matters to you, get a parallax compensating scope. I had a 0.22lr rifle with a non compensating scope, shooting 1MOA. with a parallax compensating scope (SKW 10x42C), I was able to get the accuracy down to 0.37MOA....
parallax in air gun scopes 35 yards, 15, 10, 7, 5, 3 the purposes are the following: small game hunting you can get by with 35, if you like shooting smaller targets at closer ranges then then simply pick the lowest parallax you think you will need, in air guns the got a little funny with parallax with the UTG Bug buster scope, this one allows you to see an ant at 3 yards with out backing off on magnification, for instance most scopes with 9x you have to back off magnification, but with the Bug buster it full magnification, the scope like a microscope, at 3 yards i could see stripes on a hornet and could make out all the details, the idea of this scope was to push the limits of close range to the point of being able to shoot a fly off your deck on a piece of water melon, that way you would not have to step back far to have it in focus, even though you could. air gun scopes are designed for double recoil, i recommend anyone who shoots typically 100 yards or under to put a air gun scope on a rifle, they way you can enjoy crisp, clear focus without having to back off your magnification if you see a small target, you can keep magnification and just put objective on the 3 yard setting, the more you have to back off magnification at closer ranges to see target the higher the parallax the scope setting has, this is why a 3-9 x 32 with out adjustable objective and low parallax you find your self having to go down to 3x rather then having a full 9x and a clear picture with a adjustable objective low parallax scope, for the best of both world i recommend a hawke 2-7 x 32 or 3-9 x 32, these are 10 yard parallax scopes, the mill dots are the size of a dime at 25 yards, 1/4 inch at 12 yards and 1/8 inch at closer ranges so you can use a mill dot to lock in your target rather then cross hair, some find it easier to place a mill dot on target then a cross hair, i have a video that i shoot 1/4 inch targets with using mill dot rather then cross hair, this video is called Crosman 2100 1/4 inch targets, you can see the hawke scope in action on that video
Love the UTG Bugbuster and their Hunter scope. Great bang for the buck, and the ability to focus close in especially for those of us that also have a basement air rifle range where we start out zeroing our setups or use for indoor recreation during those times we can't get out to shoot (many municipalities do not allow discharge of air rifles outdoors at all). The closer targets render much of my other air rifle rigs useless indoors because they simply cannot focus at those close in "bug busting" distances.
J Thom you can sight in close range for long range also, the way you do it is say like at 25 yards get it sighted in perfect, then at 3 yards shoot a dot on a piece of paper and save it, then next time you need a 25 yard sight in just sight it in for the same 3 yard dot you shot before and it will be ready for 25 yards again, "long range sight in at close range" it easier to adjust click value close range and rifle is more stable, then only minor adjustments have to be made if wind or other variables. with a UTG scope you can practice at close range with 1/4 th inch targets that can simulate longer range shots, shoot flies with a 22 rifle with out having a blurry 100 yard parallax setting, never blurry from the end of your big toe to the furthest distance
It is a big deal at 600 yards. If your parallax error is almost 6" and you add another 6" for MOA, now you have a 12" group if is everything is perfect.
It's ironic how he's talking about parallax while he's holding the mark 6, easily the worst scope Leupold had ever made. Especially in regards to parallax.
I think Leupold are falling behind everyone else with this. Unless you're target shooting at the distance the fixed focus scope is set up for, you're in danger of losing accuracy unless you can place your eye exactly in the same position behind the scope each time you shoot. Even moving your eye 2mm can make a big difference to the aim point. Just because people buying smaller rifles shoot at shorter ranges does not make the problem any less of a problem, because we're generally also shooting at smaller targets or small vermin, and any parallax at all can be a problem trying to shoot a rabbit in the head at 55 metres (which I regular do with my 22LR). So I don't go for leupold scopes. Their side parallax scopes are expensive for what they are, and their fixed scopes are inadequate to the task of sport shooting in real world conditions, unless you're shooting at large targets, or targets at exactly the distance the scope is set up for at the factory. Just my opinion.
Did you even watch the video?!?!? Charts/diagrams are not shown long enough?? You do realize here is a pause button as well as a rewind feature right??
You wasn't paying attention to details. Watch again and pause the video at 1:20 and look for the differences in the top & bottom scope pictures. It's all right there!
OK, parallax is not a big deal at 300 yards, but how about target shooting at 10 yards? And now it's going to be a really big deal! However nothing was said about this.
adjustable Parallax scopes are better then fixed Parallax hands down and they dont cost more because they are adjustable in fact there are amazing scopes with adjustable Parallax that will meet or exceed the really coslty and wel over priced fixed Parallax scopes..
Dave markel + Yep! Ubiquitous wherever there's a host and a guest. The guests need to get an agreement beforehand they'll not be interrupted. Interrupting tells more than the doer realizes.
Ha! You spend ages reading rubbish about parallax and similar issues. Then you listen to someone like this who explains it clearly, and guess what? 90% of us shooting deer under 500yds will never encounter parallax to the extent of making our shot seriously inaccurate. More Journalists with too little to say inventing problems again.
If you are going to talk about something on the scope then show and demonstrate it to the viewers. After all you are utilizing a visual medium called TELEVISION!!! What you posted may as well be a radio segment. A topic like this needs to be highly visual! Show us everything you are talking about...EVERYTHING! Or, just hire me to direct you...
A problem with the format used. Hosts are supposed to interact with the guest, not just give the guest a platform, it makes the presentation inferior to those interested in the subject, but it entertains and is more "interactive" to others.
This was probably the most "down to earth and understandable" explanation of parallax I've ever seen or listened to. Well done and thanks for the no bs explanation.
I 150% agree with your statement...thank God because I was very confused up to this point
Love it.. Explained well, and the interviewer was asking real questions.. Great tutorial.
Nice. I have had my Leupold 3-9x50mm matte scope for ~20 years. Nice to know the issue in the video does not affect deer hunter greatly
Video was very clear and much better explained than any other video I've seen.
I like the honesty the most.
Appreciate this. Thank you. Most other videos are convoluted beyond grasping. I inherited a 989m2 Marlin with a Weaver T-10. Been trying to understand parallax. "It doesn't matter that much unless you're shooting small game at 600 yards" is all I needed to know. Cheers.
The best parallax explanation i have heard so far. 😁
Finally explained as should be to a regular dude ;)
Thanks alot!
What an awesome explanation. I can see how the unmagnified red-dot scopes caused the parallax confusion now.
Thank you so much!! That is what I needed you explained that so good!!!
guys!!!! this was an amazingly useful video for me to come across right now!! thanks!
Great video. Thanks for all the information. Really just confirms you don't need to buy the most expensive scope you can afford. Limiting parallax is a skill (an easy one to attain) Where you align your eye with the scope at the same place every time. And like you said, save your money for more ammo to hone that skill with.
Well explained. Thank you very much.
Great explanation. Thanks
the best way to describe parallax is how close you can have a clear scope picture with out having to back down the magnification, for example a 3 -9 x 32 with a 10 yard parallax will show a clear picture at 10 yards at a full 9 x magnification, any time you have to drop magnification to see clearly you are out of the parallax zone, the lower magnification helps compensate for fuzz but you lose magnification, the 150 yard scope he talked about will be fuzzy if closer wich forces you to drop magnification, any thing beyond 150 yards you can go for higher magnification and get a clear picture, the lower the parallax rating the better the scope is for all distances with crystal clear visibility being more adaptable to more types of shooting and having less fuzz, scope manufacturers cut out quality of the scopes, all scopes should have a low parallax. and a note about parallax error, if you see shades of black when you look in scope simply look until they disappear, also over magnification can cause parallax error, so back down until shades of black on sides dont appear, you can test parallax error by moving your eye left to right off center from reticle, if reticle moves just back off magnification or train your eye to look center, the shades of black on all sides of scope view are a warning your eye is not center with the scope, so in some ways these cloudy shades help us be more center, many people think more magnification is always better for accuracy, but not always, sometimes you can shoot better on 12 x then 24 x depending on how you deal with parallax error, so i recommend doing a series of shot groups at the same range with various magnification settings, you will be shocked to see that you do better sometimes with less magnification
Thank you so much I can understand what you are saying. You just helped me a guy you don’t know so thanks 🙏!!!!,,,
Very useful video thank you very much
Very informative.... thanks.
Agree!! I could have used this before going shooting today with my new Leupold scope and rifle. Would have tightened my groups a lot.
I was looking down the line of parallax adjustment for use of an add on night vision unit. your eye automatically adjusts to a point where it corrects focus of reticle and objective enough, though a camera is fixed and can do with some extra help to give a clear picture for changes of distance and zooming in/out. Does this sound right? Great video and thanks
Don't know if anyone is monitoring this vid but I will ask anyway and if not I will get the answer one way or another from the guys at work. Does the adjustment method differ depending on which focal plane is used; that is 1st or 2nd? Not sure if you discussed that as it went by quickly and I will have to listen to it a number of times to get the meaning across. Thanks for the explanation.
The arrow is said to be in line with the digit 3 on the left, but on my telephone screen, it isn't. And the arrows on the right diagram also aren't pointing to the stated numbers. When I realized it, i laughed and wondered if the error is caused by the diagrams being designed for a bigger screen, and if the cause is a type of parallax.
Very well explained and dismisses is a little bit of oversimplification back when I used to teach the subject. When asked, I would always say that 'parallax is the apparent movement of an object when viewed from two separate points'. Anyway, good stuff so thanks for posting.
Hmmm thats interesting. I knew everything except how much it would effect the shot placement. awesome!
My rimfire scope doesn't focus at any distance unless I adjust the parallax to infinity. It doesn't matter what I do with the reticle. What am I doing wrong?
So what is focusing your scope in the sky for?
I've found a VX-II 4-12 x50 second hand in Australia for a good price. I think it's parralax is set for 150 yards? I want to mount it on a rifled shotgun I'm building just for target shooting between 50 and 150 yards.
Does the focusing on a clear sky help me get around the parralax error at say 50 yards?
what about for closer distances? and at what power should we be concerned?
Do all leupold second focal plane scopes have 0 parallax at 150 yards...? As many other companies seem to have a 0 parallax at 100 yards...? And on another note - if the scope has a 150 yard parallax free setup... Would it be better to set the clarity of the scope to each shooter at a 150 yard target of some sort...?
thanks
you spoke about difference it makes at longer ranges is it the same in shorter distance bun i reverse! !! eg i have a redfield revolution scope that is set parallax at 150 yards !! how much difference is there at say 50 meters ?????
Look at the chart at 6:04 that should help you. Every 300 yards is 44 mm, so a difference of 100 yards, closer or farther away, will be off by ⅓ of 44mm, which is just under 15 mm.
parallax setting is the closest distance you can see a target clearly with out drop in magnification, for example a bug buster scope has a 3 yard setting, this means at 3 yards no fuzz even with full magnification. any time you have to drop magnification to see clearly it a sign that the parallax setting is higher, for example a 3-9 x 32 with a 35 yard parallax setting will fuzz out if closer then 35 yards, this is why you have to drop magnification, but say like a bug buster scope you never have to back off magnification only adjust bell to 3 yds mark if your 3 yds, no hunting rifle or combat rifle should have any higher then a 10 yard parallax setting, the higher the parallax setting then the less options for things like aiming in the house like practicing hold and training arm muscles or in door scope adjustments like fixing a canted scope, the standing method of shooting can be practiced inside during the winter, you place dots on wall at different heights and practice your hold and aim, low dot and high dots are good so your muscles can adapt to different angles, the application is say you cant lay down and have to shoot on the run or standing, if one always does sandbag or bench rest the muscle tone goes out so that when you need to stand or be on the move you are not prepared since you will be shaky from out of tone muscles that havent been worked for standing position
libracory You mentioned combat or hunting rifles with parallax set to 10yds... what scope is set that low? I want a scope for my AR that can plink an apple at 50 yds (fun shooting) but also hit combat encounters at 10yds (home invasion). I like high magnification for the farther 50yd precision apple / golf ball plinking tasks. I know some guys will say "you should only need 3x or a red dot", but I just hate straining my eyes so much when I can simply zoom and hold it steady... why not zoom as much as you can? Do I need to find a 1-6 with closer parallax? Where should it be set at? Will there be "center hunting"/ parallax issues at 10-20 yard close combat shooting when dropped down to 1x or 1.5x or even 2x (depending on what I settle on)? I've wondered if I need a 2-7x. I've always only been a pistol shooter. I live in a city most of my life with only 30 yard indoor ranges at best. I bought my kid an ar 22 and a recommended (by the gun shop) cheap 3x9 BSA scope. She struggled (as so did I a little) with centering up her eye with the scope and then placing the reticle on the target 20yds. You get reticle wandering as well as the "black edges". We shoot the AR 22 indoors as that's the highest caliber "rifle" cartridge allowed at our range. The AR .22 will always be shot 10-30 yards. Once again, I hate straining to see the small paper target set back at 30yds. I like to zoom rather than strain. The AR 5.56/.223 will always be shot 10-50 yards (practical home/ land defense against zombie attacks)... and maybe a 100 yard shot for kicks at a range every now and then. I hear some guys call less than 100 yards CQB. For me, a city slicker, I call anything inside of 10-50 yards CQB. Any scope recommendations for both of my two rifles mentioned? I got the 7mag deer/ elk gun figured out with a fixed 10x. Thanks!
Question, what if I'm shooting at small targets (groundhogs) at under 150 yds. Will I need an ao scope?
Yes under 25yo eyes.... No if older than 25... Need a scope
at 5:59 he says that his scope with a 44mm objective at double the in focus distance will deviate by 44mm. In other words he just put the scope body up to the target and showed that was the deviation. Every time you add 150 yds to the original 150yd in focus distance the max deviation is an extra diameter of the scope. But then in the chart at 6:07 it shows a scope with a 50mm only deviates by half of that scope objective. It says that at 300 yds there is a 25mm max deviation.
They say a whole scope diamter deviation, the chart shows half a scope diameter deviation. What am I missing?
The deviation of 50 MM can be 25 left to 25 right or 25+25 equals 50 the size of the scope diameter. You are aiming at just one spot in the middle of the scope so you can deviate both left and right. Does that help?
Hutzjohn Thanks. That helps
so if I'm hunting out of a deer blind where the lanes are up to 200 yards, what parallax setting should I use?
Sounds like the standard 150yds non adjustable parallax would work just fine for you. Or if you get an adjustable one adjust it to the animal's distance.
Great video but can anyone help me i want to buy the vx-3-7x32 leupold for my airrifle i will only be shooting doves at around 30-50 yards but i see the parallax is set for 75 yards how can i re set parallax so my scope is clear and accurate at these close ranges thanks
You can always order one from the custom shop set to the parallax of your choice!
@600 yards you have 88mm of wobble + the MOA or shot deviation data equals......Plug in the parallax to narrow shooter error.
The more things you overlook the larger your group will be, and you won't know whether to adjust for wind, elevation, or parallax. I agree, for a long distance scope, I feel parallax adjustment is pretty dang important. At least for those of us that rely heavily on hitting our target.
Absolutely, he says "at 600yds thats less than one minute" ....Yea, of JUST PARALLAX error. LMAO if he says ' yea, the bad scope mount is less than one minute' and 'yea, the bad ammo is less than one minute' and 'yea, the rotten trigger is less than one minute' pretty soon ya can't hit water from a boat. I assumed the "Leupold Parallax Video" would explain it better than saying , basically , "aw, ya don't need it anyway" LMAO
At 1:54 the picture on the right,what I am seeing is the circle appears to be in line with 2,not 1 as is written. Triangle appears to be in line with 4, not the 2 as written. What am I missing here?
When the reticle and the target are on the same plane so there is minimal or no parallax, is that when the MOA hash lines or mill dots are appropriate to the size of the target?
EDIT: I just researched it and that is related to Subtension. FFP reticles have the same subtension and the MOA or Mil dot is true regardless of magnification. SFP it is usually on the highest magnification or unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.
Set scope to highest magnification.. That's the correct mil dot width of 1 mil
On the diagram at 1:54 ,I don't understand how the circle and triangle are inline with 3. They appear to be in line with number 6 ,if there was a number 6. Can anyone explain what diagram is saying. Both pictures are wrong to me. Somehow I am gonna feel stupid,I can see it coming. Lol. Thanks
What is a good Leupold scope for a marlin .22 model 795
I just bought one of their rimfire series. I picked the FX-1, 4 by 28mm. They have variable power scopes in the rimfire selection as well but I didn't want that for my 22 mag. Fantastic fit and finish and good glass and coatings for the price point. I highly recommend them.
another way to understand parallax is simply the closest range you get a clear picture with out having to drop magnification, to find parallax of a rifle scope put magnification at highest then look through scope at close distance and walk back until you can see clearly, using a box with letters works good and the closest distance you can read letters clear is the parallax setting of scope, for example my bsa scope has a 10 yard parallax so at a full 24 x i walk away from target and shure enough at 10 yards i can read letters, the example above i gave a a much more simple way to understand parallax, if your an AR -15 shooter even if parallax is say 100 yards, for combat reasons a 1-6 x scope is practical, so you would turn down magnification at close quarters and scope would get clear, so parallax in this case would not matter as much since your not going to need a full 6 x at close quarters, but for smaller targets close range parallax is everything, for example standing indoors with your rifle scope targeting wall for muscle memory and keeping tone in arms before hunting season, this is why a utg bug buster scope with 3 yard parallax is handy, almost a perfect clear picture if you aimed at your big toe on a full 9x magnification, the close parallax helps off season in small compact spaces for aiming practice, even combat practice of aiming at multiple 1/4 inch dots while standing, this will fatigue proof you for multiple target shooting later when you can finally get to a range, and you use no ammo but get the benefit of fatigue in your arms, because shooting is in its self a light form of weight lifting, the more targets you can hit without "shooter fatigue" the better, to test your fatigue it would cost lots of money on ammo, so you can get an idea of your fatigue limits by aiming indoors at 1/4 inch dots on a wall, place dots at all levels since in real life you shoot at all angles, the angle memory need to work into your arms also, not just straight shooting and aiming.
Facts. That was a very good comment. Thanks man. You have me ready to practice indoors now. Nice. Peace
Some scopes have infinity parallax....so what happens if you put it on that option? Will it have zero parallax at any range? Kinda confused in this aspect.
I don't think so, it's only for past the last numbered range. My scope has parallax adjustments from 50, 100, 150 ,200, 300, and 500 yards, then infinity. So anything past 500 yards is infinity I guess.
And that is the maximum deviation. If you are lined up right your shot should not be affected.
1:15 параллакс сетка в фокусе обьектива
1:52 параллакс схема наглядно
2:16 схема
6:06 таблица параллакс - ошибки от диаметра объектива
He got so many experience, i don't even know what they say 😂
The diagrams at 1:51 are pure madness?
Brendan Redler that's what I just wrote in my comment. Did you ever get it figured out? It is madness I agree. Has to be misprint right? Can't believe you and me are only ones saying anything about that wording in diagram.
Perhaps I was missing something, but to me, the video failed to explain what to do when you have a non-AO scope with parallax fixed at say, 100 yards, and you are shooting at a closer or longer distance, and the reticle is moving around. What to do? The only thing that was mentioned is to set eyepiece focus once, and I guess for all distances. So, this video, like most, was not helpful to me.
The point is that he explained if its a non ao scope at fixed 150 yards(doesn't really matter the yards) you won't be off by much more than 44 mm on his example. 44mm is 1.7 inches variable. if you have perfect positioning for that 300 yards, instead of 150. you can still hit your center mark, if you're off as far off as you can go you can only go 1.7 inches off. which is not a big deal for big game hunting as they mentioned. given the ratio, i'm not a scope expert but i would imagine that being off by 75 yards, instead of 150 yards further/closer. you will only be about 22mm off at most, which is less than an inch.
the way to avoid parallax error with a fixed parallax scope is to have your head position aligned the same for every shot. if you use a camera with a mount, it has no parallax error because it is fixed in place. if you can replicate this with your eye, you don't need a parallax compensating scope...... if you want ultimate accuracy, and 1.7 inches actually matters to you, get a parallax compensating scope. I had a 0.22lr rifle with a non compensating scope, shooting 1MOA. with a parallax compensating scope (SKW 10x42C), I was able to get the accuracy down to 0.37MOA....
or be me and try every single thing I can try before understanding
👍📽
parallax in air gun scopes 35 yards, 15, 10, 7, 5, 3 the purposes are the following: small game hunting you can get by with 35, if you like shooting smaller targets at closer ranges then then simply pick the lowest parallax you think you will need, in air guns the got a little funny with parallax with the UTG Bug buster scope, this one allows you to see an ant at 3 yards with out backing off on magnification, for instance most scopes with 9x you have to back off magnification, but with the Bug buster it full magnification, the scope like a microscope, at 3 yards i could see stripes on a hornet and could make out all the details, the idea of this scope was to push the limits of close range to the point of being able to shoot a fly off your deck on a piece of water melon, that way you would not have to step back far to have it in focus, even though you could. air gun scopes are designed for double recoil, i recommend anyone who shoots typically 100 yards or under to put a air gun scope on a rifle, they way you can enjoy crisp, clear focus without having to back off your magnification if you see a small target, you can keep magnification and just put objective on the 3 yard setting, the more you have to back off magnification at closer ranges to see target the higher the parallax the scope setting has, this is why a 3-9 x 32 with out adjustable objective and low parallax you find your self having to go down to 3x rather then having a full 9x and a clear picture with a adjustable objective low parallax scope, for the best of both world i recommend a hawke 2-7 x 32 or 3-9 x 32, these are 10 yard parallax scopes, the mill dots are the size of a dime at 25 yards, 1/4 inch at 12 yards and 1/8 inch at closer ranges so you can use a mill dot to lock in your target rather then cross hair, some find it easier to place a mill dot on target then a cross hair, i have a video that i shoot 1/4 inch targets with using mill dot rather then cross hair, this video is called Crosman 2100 1/4 inch targets, you can see the hawke scope in action on that video
Love the UTG Bugbuster and their Hunter scope. Great bang for the buck, and the ability to focus close in especially for those of us that also have a basement air rifle range where we start out zeroing our setups or use for indoor recreation during those times we can't get out to shoot (many municipalities do not allow discharge of air rifles outdoors at all). The closer targets render much of my other air rifle rigs useless indoors because they simply cannot focus at those close in "bug busting" distances.
J Thom you can sight in close range for long range also, the way you do it is say like at 25 yards get it sighted in perfect, then at 3 yards shoot a dot on a piece of paper and save it, then next time you need a 25 yard sight in just sight it in for the same 3 yard dot you shot before and it will be ready for 25 yards again, "long range sight in at close range" it easier to adjust click value close range and rifle is more stable, then only minor adjustments have to be made if wind or other variables. with a UTG scope you can practice at close range with 1/4 th inch targets that can simulate longer range shots, shoot flies with a 22 rifle with out having a blurry 100 yard parallax setting, never blurry from the end of your big toe to the furthest distance
So what exactly are the super high end scopes FOR?
+Jeremy Mine Massive precision. 1/2 MOA 1000yd shooting.
Moto Rad lol
Jeremy Mine Well it is true. lol I just use a 3x fixed magnification for everything right now.
3-9x40 for me. only scoped rifle now owned is my CZ 452 .22lr
Jeremy Mine I just have an ACOG. It works for the 5.56 , I don't need much beyond that.
It is a big deal at 600 yards. If your parallax error is almost 6" and you add another 6" for MOA, now you have a 12" group if is everything is perfect.
This would've been a great video if the guy in the black cap hadn't kept chiming in.
its obvious they never shot a pellet rifle
It's ironic how he's talking about parallax while he's holding the mark 6, easily the worst scope Leupold had ever made. Especially in regards to parallax.
Spoken like a BOSS!!!
Gotta get me a Leupold :D
What if you wear glasses
I think Leupold are falling behind everyone else with this. Unless you're target shooting at the distance the fixed focus scope is set up for, you're in danger of losing accuracy unless you can place your eye exactly in the same position behind the scope each time you shoot. Even moving your eye 2mm can make a big difference to the aim point. Just because people buying smaller rifles shoot at shorter ranges does not make the problem any less of a problem, because we're generally also shooting at smaller targets or small vermin, and any parallax at all can be a problem trying to shoot a rabbit in the head at 55 metres (which I regular do with my 22LR).
So I don't go for leupold scopes. Their side parallax scopes are expensive for what they are, and their fixed scopes are inadequate to the task of sport shooting in real world conditions, unless you're shooting at large targets, or targets at exactly the distance the scope is set up for at the factory.
Just my opinion.
Video was confusing. Charts/diagrams are not shown long enough nor explained. He doesn't explain parallax clearly or what it is or why it happens.
BAD Explanation. Did no good for me.
Did you even watch the video?!?!? Charts/diagrams are not shown long enough?? You do realize here is a pause button as well as a rewind feature right??
You wasn't paying attention to details. Watch again and pause the video at 1:20 and look for the differences in the top & bottom scope pictures. It's all right there!
This reminds me of a time where I thought everyone else was dumb, but really I was.
Is that a scope in your pocket or are you happy to see us? 😆
OK, parallax is not a big deal at 300 yards, but how about target shooting at 10 yards? And now it's going to be a really big deal! However nothing was said about this.
10 yards, your better not need a scope
new firend watching and sending my full supoort keep safe god bles join u back hope support its others♥
adjustable Parallax scopes are better then fixed Parallax hands down and they dont cost more because they are adjustable in fact there are amazing scopes with adjustable Parallax that will meet or exceed the really coslty and wel over priced fixed Parallax scopes..
Wish the guy on the left would keep quiet and let the other guy explain without interruption. All he does is distract.
Yes totally agree Dave, it was distracting... many people just can't be quiet !.. thanks man :)
Dave markel + Yep! Ubiquitous wherever there's a host and a guest. The guests need to get an agreement beforehand they'll not be interrupted. Interrupting tells more than the doer realizes.
Ha! You spend ages reading rubbish about parallax and similar issues. Then you listen to someone like this who explains it clearly, and guess what? 90% of us shooting deer under 500yds will never encounter parallax to the extent of making our shot seriously inaccurate. More Journalists with too little to say inventing problems again.
If you are going to talk about something on the scope then show and demonstrate it to the viewers. After all you are utilizing a visual medium called TELEVISION!!! What you posted may as well be a radio segment. A topic like this needs to be highly visual! Show us everything you are talking about...EVERYTHING! Or, just hire me to direct you...
Totally lost still...
Yep
The old man interrupts too much!
A problem with the format used. Hosts are supposed to interact with the guest, not just give the guest a platform, it makes the presentation inferior to those interested in the subject, but it entertains and is more "interactive" to others.
Parallax for dummies?
It does exist lol