I got an F430 that was a bit of a lemon. If I set the chamber heater over 30°C it will just stop printing and turn off after a few hours. The printer needs a -Z limit switch. Would like to have retracting nozzles. If you use other software (other than CreatWare) then the out-of-filament and the loss of mains power features will not work. Only interface is via USB, would like to see wifi. Good mechanical design, linear rails. I think the filament motor could use better cooling - if doing heaps of filament retract (say >3 mm) the motor will heat. The filament motor drive shaft is the filament drive gear - which gets warm and you can loose filament feed.
The 30° C problem is worrisome as that's just a little over room temperature. Kinda defeats the whole purpose of adding a heated chamber. Is this still a consistent problem or was that a one off? Would you still recommend buying this? I was tempted to buy it, but now I'm not sure.
@@daveh9817 Just this week I got a new pcb and shielded cables with ferrites from the factory. This seems to have solved the problem - I have tested at 60°C air temperature and all good. It was a painful process to get a solutions to this problem. I think that CreatBot has good value, good mechanical design. I am printing 24/7 most of the time. I do not have hands on experience with other brands of printers so difficult to rate. I have a Raised3D E2 on order as my next larger-volume printer. The Raised is more money but has retracting heads and wifi. Which one is better suites my manufacturing needs - not sure until the E2 is delivered (February 2020) and in production for a bit.
@@coolingsolutionsnz Hey thanks Mark! Glad you got it resolved. I'm new to printing so this is the first printer I'm considering so I'm not sure what those upgrades are. I guess I'll have to ask for those same parts. Were you tempted to get the bigger Pro 600 with huge build area? That looks pretty beefy and amazing too.
@@daveh9817 NO the Pro 600 is just too big for the nozzle size (0.4 dia) this type of manufacturing. Bigger is not better. If for some reason you want to print a part bigger than the F430 build volume then get creative and break it into several smaller parts. This will also reduce over all warpage of the part. Start off with small easy parts ("calibration parts" ). Study bed adhesion techniques, controlling warpage and materials before you get the printer.
Sorry guys, but not sharing test print results makes consumers suspicious of product quality and your relationship to these manufacturers. I see by other comments I’m not only one wondering why you avoid this.
I bought one, would not print sample parts at all. I test printed my own part, and the print quality was amazing. The build quality of printer is very good, touch screen is eh...but it works perfectly fine, just not as polished looking as my flashforge. So far, machine is not perfect, but feels very industrial and like a workhorse. Its 100% capable of some really really good prints.
I have an unopened f430 bcuz i may return bcuz im looking to find out the REAL print volume using the dual ext. Cura is telling me its like 337mm 😵💫and Creatbot says its “close” to 400mm (X axis). My part is 388mm and dont mind angling a bit but dont want to get stuck w a $4k printer that isnt much better than my CR10s pro. Any help??
Creatbot informed me at seems to be right that Cura settings are X-510mm, Y-320mm, Z-300mm…Xmin -20, Ymin -10, Xmax 10, Ymax 10, gantry 60mm, Extruder 2 offset is 73mm.
@@LoveItDirtyOffroad hi Adam did you have to pay extra fees for your printer. One site I am looking at lists it for $4270 but has a 7% off and free delivery 'sale'. I have read comments about a duty tax??
@@sankarkrishnan7425 i did not, assuming you’re in the US like me there are distributors located around (mine shipped from cali i think) so no duty tho I saw that during purchase too to the best of my knowledge.
I have this printer and it has a large build volume. However if you built anything close to the the build volume size you could NOT get the part out of the door. Otherwise it is working out great.
@@hightempreviews5137 Yes I need to clarify. The machine comes with a carbon-fiber removable build sheet. The sheet is 500 wide while the opening is 425 mm. To get the part off the sheet it is nice to take all out and flex the sheet to pop the part off. It is sometimes difficult to get the sheet with a part on it out the door.
the UI display is pretty poor... and with its relatively short timeout may make you a bit nervous. You're right IMHO its best feature seems to be the 450°C able nozzle temperature. I've always dreamed - as many of us I suppose - that support should have its own material and its own nozzle, providing that both nozzles are accurately positioned. Can't wait the next print.
U.S. buyers beware that any creatbot bought is going to come with a very expensive(thousands of dollars) duty tax once it arrives in the states.DHL in California won't ship it to you unless its paid, even though creatbot sellers claim free shipping.
The dutys are not "thousands of dollars". California is a democrat strong hold, and californians love paying high taxes (they vote for it every chance possible). But anywho...the max duty would be $800 if it was for a business purchase. I just purchased and there was zero dutys. Again...nothing to do with createbot, and you shouldnt be charged any dutys....you filled out something wrong that triggered that.
Is it open GCODE? Or are we locked to their slicer? Disappointing to see an 8 bit driver board when much more powerful boards are pretty cheap. Any test prints doing ABS, Nylon, PEEK? Soluble supports? I enjoy your thoroughness. Would love to see an extruder teardown or just a look into how its been put together.
It can use any gcode from slicers such as cura or prusaslicer. You will need a custom profile though. Their own slicer (creatware) is an okay slicer as it's a fork of cura 15. I have printed abs, pla, and lots of carbon fiber nylon and it prints them all very well. It is a decent machine and can handle a lot of materials. The stock auto leveling settings are not good though so you will need to do you're own testing to dial them in.
@@maxwellhansen522 how did you get it to work for you properly? I just purchased printer and i only had bad experience with it.. damaged heatbed sheet after second print.. leveling heatbed is super comlipacted..
Hello! I am looking for a printer that can print medical grade peek. I have as an option this CreatBotF430. Can this printer help me? Any recommendation?
Hi creartbot team. I have a same machine but I did a wrong calibration for the touchscreen. I mistakenly make the top left as bottom so no matter what I press it all goes to the left bottom and I can't do another calibration.is there any button I could reset the whole screen to factory mode and start it again?thank you so much.
Who on earth builds a max x,y,z part? It would take a week and several rolls of filament. So thats just a dumb observation that a few youtube mathmaticians harp over.
And they mounted this asymmetrical extruders the wrong way, they should swap it to get the nozzles more close. Another loss of print area, but will not work without a complete redesign of the extruders.
Since there are so few resources out there for this printer, I decided to give my experience with our D600 Pro and it’s lengthy. We have one at my place of work at which me and two other guys are the main operators. It sometimes works...then we have issues...then we make adjustments and it works...for a while. I can't say for sure if it's the manufacturer, the software, or the operators, or a combination of each. I will say I use Cura at home on my Ender 3 V2 and have had almost no issues. On the D600 Pro, lately the extrusion in Nozzle 1 is coming out "bumpy' and I cannot for the life of me figure out what is causing it, but I suspect the stepper motor - we are currently using Nozzle 2. We cannot figure out how to add this printer to Cura, so until I learn how to make the G-code work or what 'flavor' to use, we are stuck with their slicer, CreatWare, which appears to be an old version of Cura. It isn't terrible but your slicer options are extremely limited compared to a modern version. The filament path feels extremely long to me (from the bottom rear compartment up the side and through both X- and Y-axis drag chains) and we have had filament get stuck, stretching the filament just above the extruder until it snaps, ruining prints. The X drag chain runs right up against the filter compartment in the rear top, and one time it caught on the corner and the print head stopped while the belt stepper motor rolled on, causing the belt to skip over the stepper motor gear, vibrating the thing like crazy. It sounded like we broke it but we were running the print head using the UI screen controls - we have not modified the printer in any way (yet). Other comments I have are that the UI works but feels very basic - not a big deal though. The stepper motor drivers (or the motors?) produce a noticeable humming. The manual is difficult to read and does not give proper procedures for tramming/leveling the bed and for setting the Z offset. I just did that this morning and it's working - for now. I have enough understanding of printing at this point to feel comfortable with it but others without the experience will not have the support needed as it's not covered very well in the manual or their support videos. I only know how to do it because of my Ender at home, which has a massive user base that I was able to use to learn from. It does feel very solid mechanically (again, aside from the bumpy extrusion), but the software side of things (stuck with old slicer, basic UI) needs work. Overall I would proceed with caution. If you are ok having to tweak things and have a good enough understanding of printing, and wouldn’t mind modifying the printer to correct some annoyances, you probably won’t find this print volume elsewhere for this price. The heated enclosure is nice. It’s definitely massive and it’s cool to have the experience of working on a printer this big. But it’s going to come with some headaches.
@@patentexperts1675 It's about 10 months old give or take. We do not run it all day every day. It is for building prototypes and sometimes production fixtures so we typically use it a couple times a week.
@@patentexperts1675 Hey...if you want to buy me a ticket, I can be...I wouldn't mind a 'business trip' to Florida! And by the way...yours might work out just fine. That is just the experience that we have had so far. If you're new to printing, it's definitely worth spending the time to find some videos and articles on printing basics.
@@laurentprodz The S5 is about double the price, can't print engineering materials out-of-the-box (420C on the createbot, 280c on the ultimaker) and doesnt have a heated build chamber.
@@truantray same build volume (reachable by both nozzles) though different dimensions 400x300x300 vs CR-10 300x300x400. So less height but more in the X direction. Overall printer footprint is significantly larger than a CR-10
Binder clips hold the bed on, clumsy manual feeding and engaging the filament, cheap looking display panel, and pretty expensive to boot. Not on my Christmas list.
The binder clips are because we chose to put glass on top of the stock glass bed. They are completely unnecessary if you print on the stock glass. If you have ever used a direct drive printer, you must always manually feed it up to and into the hotend assembly. With bowden, since the extruders are at the inlet for the filament they can obvciously feed and retract the filament for you. The display is actually well laid out and functional enough. It's not a deal breaker for me since you dont spent a lot of time staring at the LCD. It is definitely not a cheap printer, just as all printers with similar features and build volume.
More on the Creatbot F430!! Could you do a review / demo?
I got an F430 that was a bit of a lemon. If I set the chamber heater over 30°C it will just stop printing and turn off after a few hours. The printer needs a -Z limit switch. Would like to have retracting nozzles. If you use other software (other than CreatWare) then the out-of-filament and the loss of mains power features will not work. Only interface is via USB, would like to see wifi. Good mechanical design, linear rails.
I think the filament motor could use better cooling - if doing heaps of filament retract (say >3 mm) the motor will heat. The filament motor drive shaft is the filament drive gear - which gets warm and you can loose filament feed.
The 30° C problem is worrisome as that's just a little over room temperature. Kinda defeats the whole purpose of adding a heated chamber. Is this still a consistent problem or was that a one off? Would you still recommend buying this? I was tempted to buy it, but now I'm not sure.
@@daveh9817
Just this week I got a new pcb and shielded cables with ferrites from the factory. This seems to have solved the problem - I have tested at 60°C air temperature and all good. It was a painful process to get a solutions to this problem.
I think that CreatBot has good value, good mechanical design. I am printing 24/7 most of the time. I do not have hands on experience with other brands of printers so difficult to rate.
I have a Raised3D E2 on order as my next larger-volume printer. The Raised is more money but has retracting heads and wifi. Which one is better suites my manufacturing needs - not sure until the E2 is delivered (February 2020) and in production for a bit.
@@coolingsolutionsnz Hey thanks Mark! Glad you got it resolved. I'm new to printing so this is the first printer I'm considering so I'm not sure what those upgrades are. I guess I'll have to ask for those same parts.
Were you tempted to get the bigger Pro 600 with huge build area? That looks pretty beefy and amazing too.
@@daveh9817 NO the Pro 600 is just too big for the nozzle size (0.4 dia) this type of manufacturing. Bigger is not better. If for some reason you want to print a part bigger than the F430 build volume then get creative and break it into several smaller parts. This will also reduce over all warpage of the part. Start off with small easy parts ("calibration parts" ). Study bed adhesion techniques, controlling warpage and materials before you get the printer.
@@coolingsolutionsnz Thanks Mark! That sounds like good advice! 👍🏻
Sorry guys, but not sharing test print results makes consumers suspicious of product quality and your relationship to these manufacturers. I see by other comments I’m not only one wondering why you avoid this.
I bought one, would not print sample parts at all. I test printed my own part, and the print quality was amazing. The build quality of printer is very good, touch screen is eh...but it works perfectly fine, just not as polished looking as my flashforge. So far, machine is not perfect, but feels very industrial and like a workhorse. Its 100% capable of some really really good prints.
The video was great but I always end up wanting to see a test print on all the unboxing videos you guys do.
We are working hard on them...soon we will be releasing many print videos :)
I have an unopened f430 bcuz i may return bcuz im looking to find out the REAL print volume using the dual ext. Cura is telling me its like 337mm 😵💫and Creatbot says its “close” to 400mm (X axis). My part is 388mm and dont mind angling a bit but dont want to get stuck w a $4k printer that isnt much better than my CR10s pro. Any help??
Creatbot informed me at seems to be right that Cura settings are X-510mm, Y-320mm, Z-300mm…Xmin -20, Ymin -10, Xmax 10, Ymax 10, gantry 60mm, Extruder 2 offset is 73mm.
@@LoveItDirtyOffroad hi Adam did you have to pay extra fees for your printer. One site I am looking at lists it for $4270 but has a 7% off and free delivery 'sale'. I have read comments about a duty tax??
@@sankarkrishnan7425 i did not, assuming you’re in the US like me there are distributors located around (mine shipped from cali i think) so no duty tho I saw that during purchase too to the best of my knowledge.
Will you show the film with printing on both nozzles?
I have this printer and it has a large build volume. However if you built anything close to the the build volume size you could NOT get the part out of the door. Otherwise it is working out great.
@@hightempreviews5137 Yes I need to clarify. The machine comes with a carbon-fiber removable build sheet. The sheet is 500 wide while the opening is 425 mm. To get the part off the sheet it is nice to take all out and flex the sheet to pop the part off. It is sometimes difficult to get the sheet with a part on it out the door.
@@markkeown9532 No longer has removable sheet
How reliable is it ? I am fixing to buy one and I have not seen anyone do test prints and talk abt problems ( if any) on this printer.
Thorough video. Please review the D600 Pro too.
the UI display is pretty poor... and with its relatively short timeout may make you a bit nervous. You're right IMHO its best feature seems to be the 450°C able nozzle temperature. I've always dreamed - as many of us I suppose - that support should have its own material and its own nozzle, providing that both nozzles are accurately positioned. Can't wait the next print.
Yes, this is true "the UI display is pretty poor"
U.S. buyers beware that any creatbot bought is going to come with a very expensive(thousands of dollars) duty tax once it arrives in the states.DHL in California won't ship it to you unless its paid, even though creatbot sellers claim free shipping.
This is a US government-related issue and not a Creatbot issue. They are in a trade war with China so of course there will be duties and taxes.
The dutys are not "thousands of dollars". California is a democrat strong hold, and californians love paying high taxes (they vote for it every chance possible). But anywho...the max duty would be $800 if it was for a business purchase. I just purchased and there was zero dutys. Again...nothing to do with createbot, and you shouldnt be charged any dutys....you filled out something wrong that triggered that.
Is it open GCODE? Or are we locked to their slicer? Disappointing to see an 8 bit driver board when much more powerful boards are pretty cheap.
Any test prints doing ABS, Nylon, PEEK? Soluble supports?
I enjoy your thoroughness. Would love to see an extruder teardown or just a look into how its been put together.
It can use any gcode from slicers such as cura or prusaslicer. You will need a custom profile though. Their own slicer (creatware) is an okay slicer as it's a fork of cura 15. I have printed abs, pla, and lots of carbon fiber nylon and it prints them all very well. It is a decent machine and can handle a lot of materials. The stock auto leveling settings are not good though so you will need to do you're own testing to dial them in.
@@maxwellhansen522 how did you get it to work for you properly? I just purchased printer and i only had bad experience with it.. damaged heatbed sheet after second print.. leveling heatbed is super comlipacted..
Hello! I am looking for a printer that can print medical grade peek. I have as an option this CreatBotF430. Can this printer help me? Any recommendation?
Nice printer, thanks for sharing :-)
Hi creartbot team. I have a same machine but I did a wrong calibration for the touchscreen. I mistakenly make the top left as bottom so no matter what I press it all goes to the left bottom and I can't do another calibration.is there any button I could reset the whole screen to factory mode and start it again?thank you so much.
Has anyone printed a high temp filament with soluble supports yet w this?
How do you tell which hotend is the high temperature one?
Can you put a ruby olsson hotend on it?
Do you have Cura 4x profile for F430?
Or S3D?
Note that if you print a large part you can not get it out of the small front door opening.
How did you get it out then?
Who on earth builds a max x,y,z part? It would take a week and several rolls of filament. So thats just a dumb observation that a few youtube mathmaticians harp over.
love it
Wow ! Nice printer!
Fan for filament cooling nearly completely covered by the extruder casing
Please explain. I'm not sure I understand. The Y fan shroud directs the part cooling fan to the inner side of both nozzles/heatblocks
@@Jason-yn6oy look at the intake of the fan. Approximately 60% of it is covered by the steppers.
This fan there is generally a bad idea. It costs print space, because it moves the nozzles more apart.
And they mounted this asymmetrical extruders the wrong way, they should swap it to get the nozzles more close. Another loss of print area, but will not work without a complete redesign of the extruders.
Maybe they should send me one, and I show them how to do it right ;)
i want one
Hello, how is the 3D Print quality? OR can any Creatbot D600 Pro 3D Printer owners comment on the 3D Print Quality?
Thanks
Since there are so few resources out there for this printer, I decided to give my experience with our D600 Pro and it’s lengthy. We have one at my place of work at which me and two other guys are the main operators. It sometimes works...then we have issues...then we make adjustments and it works...for a while. I can't say for sure if it's the manufacturer, the software, or the operators, or a combination of each. I will say I use Cura at home on my Ender 3 V2 and have had almost no issues.
On the D600 Pro, lately the extrusion in Nozzle 1 is coming out "bumpy' and I cannot for the life of me figure out what is causing it, but I suspect the stepper motor - we are currently using Nozzle 2. We cannot figure out how to add this printer to Cura, so until I learn how to make the G-code work or what 'flavor' to use, we are stuck with their slicer, CreatWare, which appears to be an old version of Cura. It isn't terrible but your slicer options are extremely limited compared to a modern version. The filament path feels extremely long to me (from the bottom rear compartment up the side and through both X- and Y-axis drag chains) and we have had filament get stuck, stretching the filament just above the extruder until it snaps, ruining prints. The X drag chain runs right up against the filter compartment in the rear top, and one time it caught on the corner and the print head stopped while the belt stepper motor rolled on, causing the belt to skip over the stepper motor gear, vibrating the thing like crazy. It sounded like we broke it but we were running the print head using the UI screen controls - we have not modified the printer in any way (yet). Other comments I have are that the UI works but feels very basic - not a big deal though. The stepper motor drivers (or the motors?) produce a noticeable humming. The manual is difficult to read and does not give proper procedures for tramming/leveling the bed and for setting the Z offset. I just did that this morning and it's working - for now. I have enough understanding of printing at this point to feel comfortable with it but others without the experience will not have the support needed as it's not covered very well in the manual or their support videos. I only know how to do it because of my Ender at home, which has a massive user base that I was able to use to learn from.
It does feel very solid mechanically (again, aside from the bumpy extrusion), but the software side of things (stuck with old slicer, basic UI) needs work.
Overall I would proceed with caution. If you are ok having to tweak things and have a good enough understanding of printing, and wouldn’t mind modifying the printer to correct some annoyances, you probably won’t find this print volume elsewhere for this price. The heated enclosure is nice. It’s definitely massive and it’s cool to have the experience of working on a printer this big. But it’s going to come with some headaches.
@@fairandfree9824 Thanks for the much needed D600 Pro feedback and how old is the D600 Pro you are using?
@@patentexperts1675 It's about 10 months old give or take. We do not run it all day every day. It is for building prototypes and sometimes production fixtures so we typically use it a couple times a week.
@@fairandfree9824 I just purchased the D600 Pro and I'm a little nervous about setting it up and running it. You wouldn't be located in Florida??
@@patentexperts1675 Hey...if you want to buy me a ticket, I can be...I wouldn't mind a 'business trip' to Florida! And by the way...yours might work out just fine. That is just the experience that we have had so far. If you're new to printing, it's definitely worth spending the time to find some videos and articles on printing basics.
Hi! How satisfied are you with this printer? Im looking for industrial machine "that just works" with great quality at this price
Go with an ultimaker S5 instead ;)
@@laurentprodz The S5 is about double the price, can't print engineering materials out-of-the-box (420C on the createbot, 280c on the ultimaker) and doesnt have a heated build chamber.
no more vids from you on this printer. im assuming its not very good.
Its a great machine. We sell lots, however, not what our audience really wants to see so we didn't release any new videos on it.
@@3DPrintingCanada That answer makes no sense if "you sell lots". If you sell little then it makes sense for little demand.
🤔
That’s a huge printer
@@truantray same build volume (reachable by both nozzles) though different dimensions 400x300x300 vs CR-10 300x300x400. So less height but more in the X direction.
Overall printer footprint is significantly larger than a CR-10
These methods no longer work. It will not auto level bed if heated.
Tho i just purchased this printer it must be a pos since they never did test print video w it. Aww Shucks.
Binder clips hold the bed on, clumsy manual feeding and engaging the filament, cheap looking display panel, and pretty expensive to boot. Not on my Christmas list.
The binder clips are because we chose to put glass on top of the stock glass bed. They are completely unnecessary if you print on the stock glass.
If you have ever used a direct drive printer, you must always manually feed it up to and into the hotend assembly. With bowden, since the extruders are at the inlet for the filament they can obvciously feed and retract the filament for you.
The display is actually well laid out and functional enough. It's not a deal breaker for me since you dont spent a lot of time staring at the LCD.
It is definitely not a cheap printer, just as all printers with similar features and build volume.
This is probably the worst printer I've ever owned, complete garbage, I have a brand new d600 if anybody wants it you can have it for $3,000
Thats a different printer....
Very good video but please stop saying "zed" you can just say z. Again I enjoyed the video thank you for sharing.
its the latest craze with the latte sipping crowd
That's not a commericial printer, far from it. Prosumer at best.
I own it, its pretty commercial. Is it a $130,000 printer? No.
Don't ever buy one of these total junk
Let me guess, you dont own one but have a modded ender 3 clone that you think is the best in the world.