Faulty QTX PAR180 High Power RGB Stage Light | Can I FIX It?
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- čas přidán 22. 03. 2024
- I bought a Faulty QTX PAR180 High Power RGB Stage Light from eBay for £15. In the item description it said that only 3 of the lights light up blue and nothing else happens. Let's take it apart, see if we can diagnose the problem and hopefully repair it!
I'm not an expert, but I do enjoy trying to fix things.
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Link to RGB LEDs used:
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Thank you for your support!
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170 piece electronics tool kit (security bits): amzn.to/3FGLWpr
SMD Tweezer set: amzn.to/3t9GlW4
Aixun T3A Soldering Station: amzn.to/3u2SBri
Soldering Flux: amzn.to/3UDC0py
Low Melt Solder: amzn.to/3QICZ5r : Cheaper Alternative amzn.to/3G4L3XK
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Component Tester: amzn.to/46UcHm6 alternative (slightly cheaper) amzn.to/49yZSzJ
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AD409 Pro Microscope 10" Screen: amzn.to/3G0CI7P
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Other Equipment:
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Other cameras: Canon G7X, iPhone 6
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& Adonstar AD409 Pro.
Editing Software: DaVinci Resolve
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#electronics #electronicsrepair #repair
QTX Stage Light Repair
QTX RGB Light Repair
RGB PAR180 Light Repair
QTX PAR180 Repair
Faulty QTX PAR180 - Jak na to + styl
Rule of thumb with ALL Led lights that use multiple chips: Replace ALL of them at the same time, as the ones you leave behind WILL fail again very soon! They seriously overdrive these chips, and if you can reduce the current even 10% it will make them last a lot longer. Glad to see you did that!
Thanks 👍Yes I had been thinking of modifying the circuit slightly to reduce the current as I don't think I'm going to need it as bright as it is! Thanks for the advice 🙂
I kept repairing these for a local pub. Once they start failing, one would go about once a week. Luckily, we had a pile of sacrificial fittings to butcher. These had tons of crap 5mm LEDs in series, so finding the faulty one was done by shorting each one out in the chain until the rest came on.
So basically this unit was worn out and then you resurrected it from land fill, well done! You don't always use the quickest approach with diagnosing a fault using your immense skill, but you educate your viewers on the journey by passing on your accrued skills/ techniques on the way. Great stuff keep it up!
Thank you 👍
Well done Mick, the extra money spent was well worth it for the entertainment of a full fix for all the viewers.
Thanks mate 👍
A fix is a fix well done for finishing what you started, 👏👏
Thanks 🙂👍
Unfortunately, beyond economic repair is the death knell for many consumer products, including cars. Such a shame, and a waste. If more standardised components were used, then second hand parts would be easier to find. Good work as ever 😊
Thanks Matt 👍
Being beyond economic repair after simple faults is very much a deliberate feature. I wish our politicians would bring in legislation to force the standardisation of components, but they just won't.
Hit thumbs up.....
_THEN_ watch the video because you know it's going to be awesome!
😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍👍
Expensive repair yes, but think of the great light show you can now show at parties. Thanks for sharing. PS. I would have bought all 6 too.
Thanks Brian, yes we've got a big barn 😂😂😂👍
Great fix Mick, when I started fixing led TVs I used to replace the faulty LEDs then a week later it will come back with the same issue, so now I replace the whole set. Wind down the current a bit should be easy to do! Once again brilliant video really enjoyed it thank you! 😊
Thanks Gary👍, yes I might look at this again and see how to alter the current, and possibly screw the LEDs down to the heat sink.
@@BuyitFixit good idea the LEDs are probably pushed to their limit
Nice work. You saved it from the dump and once again taught me a lesson in patience. Thank you for the video!
Thanks 👍
You could have saved two of the LEDs, the real mistake is that the LED modules are not screwed down because the holes for them are missing on the board....the heat dissipation is significantly better when they are screwed on...and also the durability....because, let the spotlight work for an hour, then it will show how well the components can withstand continuous operation!...thx for the vid.
Thanks I might try drilling and screwing the LED's down, also I had thought about possibly looking at the current regulation circuit and seeing how to alter it so it gives less current output so the LEDs would last longer at slightly reduced brightness.
You have lots of patience, mate.👍👍👍👍
Yes 😂😂😂although my wife might disagree 😂😂
🤣🤣@@BuyitFixit
Excellent work and great repair, as always.
Very nearly another Trigger's broom from Only Fools and Horses though... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
14:36, famous last words, "I only need 3, I ordered 4, but I've later discovered I ONLY need 3", ah the innocents, it's refreshing.
It's Sod's law mate, you jinxed yourself right there. In my experience it'd be more like, I only need 3 so I ordered 7 so I can replace all the LEDs, while I have it apart, and have a spare in case I bugger one up...🤣🤣
Thanks mate 😂😂Yes, but 3rd time lucky as they say..😂👍
I have repaired many light fixtures made with a similar kind of LED chips.
They tend to fail rather often. In my experience, green tends to die first, then red. I have not seen the blue LED fail as of yet. Although we repair these fixtures quickly for upcoming events.
The light fixture I am often repairing is from the maker "Briteq" and is called "Powerpixel 8" and "Powerpixel 4".
These repairs are quick and the LED chips should be widely available.
I think they die so quickly because they are not properly cooled....
In the aforementioned light fixtures, they are entirely passively cooled which causes relatively high temperatures...
EDIT: Sometimes the Red Part of The LED also fails first. With three LED in series it only needs one third of a LED to fail to take out the whole triplet of that colour...
My favourite procedure of replacig the LEDs ist firs snipping off the legs of the dead LEDs and then remove the soldered legs one by one. after that you can solder the new LEDs relatively easy
Thanks for that. I think they are also over driving them. I am going to look at altering this one to reduce the current although it will also reduce the light output slightly, but extend the life of the LEDs. I may also screw them to the heatsink as some suggested. Perhaps adding a small CPU fan or similar to the passively cooled units may help?
When one of the LEDs fail, the other "group" will start to fail as they're getting double the current, but yeah, those LEDs has been getting quite hot... Maybe they're driving the LEDs a bit too hard, trying to get as much light out as possible with some cheap LEDs, interesting to know the current of them and their rated current, maybe lower the current to stop this happening again?
You are right! I think Bigclive had done a video about these cheap RGB fixtures. The LEDs are driven much to hard and will fail soon again. If the current is reduced they will last much longer!
I think they drive them too hard. I also had tons of leds fail (also dmx lights) because of no good value current programming resistors which cause the leds to get driven too hard and they will fail. Either a dumb manufacturer or planned obsolescence. I successfully fixed them all and replaced those bad value resistors with resistors that limit the current more. They are still staying strong and the heat output also slightly decreased
Yes I think I'll look into doing that 👍
One moment please .....
I reckon bigclive would approve 👍😀
Yes Indeed.. and resume 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit haha!
Are the lambs allowed to grow.?
Fun, food or fibre?
The Valais lambs will be for breeding or pets, the normal lambs we usually keep the girls for future breeding stock and the boys go off to market when they are a bit older, they then go for meat or grown bigger elsewhere.
@@BuyitFixit blimey!
Now I'm convinced those black face beauties, under the tree are real, not shopped(photo). Thanx 🙂
@chrisprobert6 oh yes definitely real 👍
Great fix as usual, cheers Mick 😃
Thanks 👍
Nice work, Mick! Thanks for sharing!
Cheers Mikey 👍
As always, Great to watch. I mysel repair a few electronics, I have a few items floating about that I have been unable to diagnose and am happy to send some bits over to you if you like? I'll try pick some bits you havent already covered if possible. im in the UK also so posting isnt an issue. All the best.
Thanks 👍Drop me an email at the channel's name at out look dot com
Excellent repair yet again 🎉
Thanks 👍
Yeah, having dealt with these before, as soon as half the blue's lit up I knew exactly what the problem was going to be. The way the LEDs are overdriven is so annoying.
I might have a look to see if I can reduce the current on the driver circuit and perhaps screw the LEDs to the PCB as a few people have suggested.
Thank you yet again for another entertaining video, once again 100% for analytical and methodical thinking. Thank you! and have a great one.👍
Thanks so much 👍Have a great weekend too 🙂
Just subscribed ! Never seen somebody like you fix things so well. Really impressive videos. Thank you so much for sharing ! :) Greeting from FRANCE ! :)
Bonjour Mon Ami! and thank you for the sub 🙂👍
Never change SOME elements - usually if more than 1 unit from more than 4 is dead, usually the rest are more than 80% dead. Always change all of them. That also includes battery cells for example.
Good advice. Thanks for that👍
Brilliant as usual,xx
Cheers 🙂👍
Hello from Australia 🙃
Well it sure was interesting to me anyway thanks Mick..
Thanks 👍glad you enjoyed it 🙂and hello from the UK.
Happy Easter to all your end.
Much support, and warmest wishes.
Wayne, Barbara, and Nina
❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍👍🐣🐣🐣🐣🐣🐥🐥🐥🐥🐥
Cheers 👍happy Easter to you guys too 🙂
Fantastic again 👍
Thanks 👍
Well done. Needs tweaking to reduce the drive current to the LEDs so they might have a longer life. Obviously way too much if they have failed so quickly.
Thanks 👍Yes I had a look at that and was going to change some of the resistors on the driver ICs to reduce the current. I might do a follow up video on it at some point.
i had to fix a light with the same build style and issue, but it was the kind where the soldering was on the underside of the LEDs and i had to buy a board heater to loosen the solder. took 3 tries to get it going. what a job that was, but it was very educational. it was 7070 style SMD LEDs
Well done. I had similar with the Milwaukee spotlight I repaired and also had to build a board heater 😂😂👍
Always test the item before you put it back together to save you time :)
And if you are going to replace a item check all first before anything else
And when one item fails except the duplicate items have also failed
But ay at least you got a good light
Thanks 👍Yes, I was pretty confident it would just work, but we all make mistakes 😂 The other thing is if I test it and it works, then people would probably just quit the video at that point and not want to see it re-assembled (at least that's what I would think but then again I could be wrong on that too)
Awesome! You're one persistent fellow I must say, most would have not spent the time and repetitive work to finish the job given the cost. The LED's must be a bit over driven to failure then the cascade happens, IDK. I suspected component failure on a board but got totally schooled as usual🤨 Great job and education, thanks. See ya soon.
Thanks Terry👍Yes I wasn't expecting to have to replace all of that lot, but I was already so far into it, so there wasn't much alternative. Sometimes you gotta take the rough with the smooth 😂😂
Nice work Mick. See you at dance practice at the weekend 🕺
😂😂😂😂Thanks Marc 👍
Awesome.....cheers !
Cheers Andymouse 👍
Nice to think you fixed it so satisfaction, but you can buy a new one for less than 30 quid. By the way, with the sound mode off, if you go to the B seting, that adjusts blue from off to full in increments, then the same with the other colours, no need to tap.
I did try the R G B 0-255 but it doesn't seem to affect the sound mode. In the instructions it mentioned a 'n' mode after the RGB for the master brightness, but it seems this one doesn't have that and just goes back to the start of the menu.
Hi! re: 'cost', return on 'investment', all in how One values Knowledge. Nice view of LED! *Thanks!*
Curious, Seeing other multi lights work, and test you did, 8:35 what's used to control needed voltage for colors? Seems to be none here, maybe i miss it noted in chips mentioned. ? spite fan, perhaps not enough ventilation, too.
Yes, it's all learning, and practice, just not really economical if you were repairing it for a customer. The LEDs were controlled by the driver IC's 6:42 data sheet is just after it. Yes I perhaps should have cleaned the fan at least when I looked back at the video, I still may see if I can change the current limiting resistors to see if I can make the leds slightly less bright and hopefully last longer!
Definitely I will change the power supply and use a 28v power supply to give more long life to the led's
I haven't used it since making the video, but I had planned on changing the current limiting resistors on the driver chips to perhaps half the output current.
it's probably white, amber, and cYan - amber and cyan are typical fill in colors to improve the color gamut of RGB. Really high end lights usually have amber, cyan, and lime green as additional channels
Thanks for that. When searching o did see some lights that had the Amber, White and UV but that didn't seem to fit with the Y, although they could have hit the Y key instead of the U? Or you could well be correct👍
can you do a workshop tour at some point. be good to see the tools you use. TIA
😂😂😂I'd have to tidy up to do that 😊
well done
Thanks 👍
Pleased you got that working. Don't see much in the way of current limiting resistors, might make it last longer if you fit some?
Thanks 👍It seems it's the two .3 ohm resistors that control the current output via the switching SQ9910B ICs so I might have a go at changing them.
Amazing Work, i can't wait to see your new video, what's the name of your microscope please?
Thanks, it's all in the video description 👍
Good repair. These lights seem to cost £79 and include a IR remote on that well known prime shopping site.
Thanks 👍Yes it didn't turn out to be worth repairing, but the problem was you don't know what the fault is until it arrives, but it hopefully made an entertaining video if nothing else 🙂👍
Whoever laid routed the traces on that LED board must have been drunk. Like what's up with all those weird angles.
LOL 😂😂👍
Brilliant fix! I have a Lindy video wall controller that is faulty but I’ve narrowed it to the power regulators on the board. That’s as far as I can take it! How can I send it to you it would make a great video!
Cheers Chad
Thanks Chad. You can drop me an email at the channel's name at out look dot com
Hi, good repair. A preheater (a old egg heater i use) under the heat sink / aluminium plate is helpfully.
01:00 is this a secret morse code ??😱😱🤔 are you a spy and this is your secret communication device ??? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes 😂😂😂 .-.. --- .-..
Another resurrection (ideal for Manchester indie tunes). Given the voltage markings on the board I also wonder whether the LEDs are being overdriven. Small mercies that the IC markings are legible for any future repairs. Your rhythm needs work (0:47 & 31:03).
Thanks 👍. Rhythm😂😂😂😂😂
Hey ,It's NOT a Milwaukee! Nice.
😂😂😂😂😂
A good fix. The company should have screwed the leds to the PCB, rather than just thermal paste and soldered connections for heat dissipation.
Or they should better tweak the led drivers by changing the programming resistors to output less driving power so the leds dont burn up fast
@@309electronics5 True, and they were wise enough to put an aluminium heatsink onto the back of the pcb. Did think when I first seen it, that they must have used a fair bit of compound there, and is it dry.
Never seen a light system that works by taping on it LOL
Yes, I think it's a special version used by people tap dancing 😂😂😂
Goes to show how little cost goes into these units - pretty much all the value is in those 6 chips and the rest “disposable” 😂
Yes, not a lot inside, small control board and PSU.
I wonder if the LED's aren't being over driven.
Yes I'm pretty sure they are, I'm going to see if it's possible to reduce the current going to them so they last longer at slightly reduced brightness.
Very nice stage lights ....... Those right there run about 150 bux from the music stores over here ...... My buddy Johnny is a musician in a band and he said they have 2 like yours ...... He watched the video with me and was impressed with your fix , he has watched quite a few of your videos with me in the past couple years ........ BTW he is a Cajun accordion player in a local French / Swamp Pop music band ...... I do the repairs and run sound for the band , I do sit in with the band every now and then when somebody can't make it ...... I'm not going to dedicate myself as a full time member ..... Take Care Mon Ami ...
Thanks Canjun and say hi to Johnny from me 🙂👍
Is there not a master control setting for brightness seem to remember when I had one you could alter it by pressing a few buttons
I did look at the time, but only saw R G and B which didn't affect the sound operation. I just had a look at the manual online and it says nxxx sets the master brightness. I've just tried on the unit and it goes r g b and then back to dxxx which is the first option, so perhaps it is something they added in later firmware, but it seems this light unfortunately doesn't support it 🙁
Well done. You say it was not a cost effective repair... Besides time.... How much did the LEDs cost ?
He mentioned they were £10 each.
Thanks, I missed that.
Thanks, yes £10 each (roughly).
I have been around circuitry my whole life but I never had any understanding of it, The best I could do was hope to find a burnt componant and replace it.. After watching some of these videos, I still don't have much of an understanding, BUT I am starting to get a clue where to look. I hope you are a teacher somewhere, you have a way of describing things that makes it very understandable.. AND I see you have several camera's and accessories listed,, What is used overhead that zooms in on the boards and how are you able to stay out of the shot?? I didn't appriciate the quality of the picture until I worked on the same board as you..
Thanks 👍Not a teacher as such, but I do volunteer at our local repair cafe where I help repair items for people in the local community. I'll also help other repairers if they get stuck with a device, so I kind of teach a little in that way. Although you have to bear in mind that I'm no expert myself! The overhead camera is the Sony that's in the video description near the bottom, along with the video software I use. I use a 3rd party remote for it, and the overhead stand that I've also put in the description. Hope that helps!
@@BuyitFixit chalkboard learning is different than real world learning, it seems like you could bridge that gap.. .. I find your information helpful because it isn't worth the price to pay for a Milwaukee tool to be repaired and it's almost always a very cheap component. I asked about the camera because no matter what you are working on, it's always the same size as my computer screen and very easy to see but when in my hand, I have trouble with a magnifying glass and holding it with tweezers... THANKS for all the info...
No problem glad to help 👍
Would it be feasible to reduce the voltage and therefore extend the life of the LED's by putting a diode (or 2) in series?
It might be, but what I had been thinking was adjusting the current limiting on the 3 output chips, it is set with resistors (the R300 in the video next to the ICs)
Haven't watched all the way through yet, but that 470uf cap at 3:48 sure seems like it might be lacking a little solder on the lower pin.
I saw that right away too.
Well spotted, I didn't notice that at the time 👍
Why do they wire 3 led’s in series and 3 in parallel ? Surely it would make sense to wire them all in parallel ?
I guess it's so they don't need to have a low voltage high amperage power supply which would probably be more expensive and have a heavier transformer and need thicker tracks / wires.
I believe you should leave the film on until soldered to keep skin oil from getting on the lens.
Thanks for that 👍 I thought it was perhaps for wave soldering or something to stop the LED's being contaminated with solder.
If I were to bet, I'd guess they are slamming those LEDs with far too much current in the interest of getting more brightness out of if.
Yes, I think the same. I think I'll have a look at reducing the current and perhaps screwing the LEDs to the PCB as a few have suggested.
Have you a link for the replacement leds. I repair disco lights now and again and might come in handy
I've just added it to the video description 👍
@@BuyitFixit thanks
I have a Neat D5 Robot vacuum cleaner battery I tried to repair, I changed one dead 18650 Li Ion battery and it bricked the Battery. Apparently it has a charging / protection chip, would you be interested in looking at this battery as i'm sure many others are having similar issues and this could make an interesting and informative video?
You can drop me an email at the channel's name at out look dot com
Happy for someone to explain why I'm wrong, but if the current through the two parallel paths is set by the voltage across them and the resistance of each leg, then if one leg was open cct and the voltage remains pretty much the same, overage current draw would halve? For more current to pass through the remaining cct the voltage across it would have to go up or the resistance of it lower.
You're not wrong. That's the inherent problem with powering LEDs (single chips or series strings) in parallel without, at a minimum, a balancing resistor in each leg. Small thermal and manufacturing variations mean one string will draw slightly more current, thus getting hotter, thus making the LED more conductive and you get thermal runaway. The current sensing circuitry in the power supply won't be aware if this and can't control it. The designers also failed to make use of the mechanical mounting holes on the modules. These are *not* optional for high-powered devices like these. Proper clamping pressure is necessary to stop problems like the heat expanding the legs just enough to break contact with the heat-sink.
Depends on the design, but many LED drivers are simple constant current designs, which is fine when you have all working LEDs. As soon as one in a string goes open the voltage will increase to a point where the current limit max should kick in (that's why all the LEDs in a typical TV backlight then go out). The issue here (in my opinion) is because of the second parallel string. The voltage would just increase to cater for the LED out in the first string. The increases the current through the second string, lessening the life of those LEDs. Looking at the PCB, I suspect the LEDs are being overdriven anyway, but they could (assuming the design caters for this) have used the second set of FETs for the second string, thereby balancing the strings (sort of). But then the cost would increase and the manufacturers would sell fewer units.
Doesn’t this has a design flaw then? A to high LED current or so? Or a thermal issue? This may not happen I assume.. 🤔
Yes, although judging from the dirt on the fan it seems to have lasted a while. I'm going to look at lowering the current output to the LEDs 👍
Probably the current set resistors are not a good value and they overdrive the leds. I also had some lights fail (also dmx lights) because they are overdriving the leds. I fixed them and swapped the resistors for a value the leds would be happy with for a lot longer. Also the driver chips will benefit from it. Also when replacing it with new leds with the old current programming resistors it also managed to break down the bond wires after an hour of testing because they were being overdriven tooo much
Yes I had thought if changing those but I'd need to work out the value from the datas heet. Have you changed any with the same IC? I'd be interested to know what values you used.
You'd have been made in the shade had you checked it _before_ putting it back together. 😅
I honestly thought it would work, but we all make mistakes. I even tested the 2nd time with the bench PSU to make sure that they were all lighting. I guess I didn't anticipate that one of the LEDs would break down thermally.
How about some graphic card repair next ...
I've actually got one that I bought from eBay faulty (8GB RX580) not a top model, but still an OK card. I haven't looked at it yet though.
@@BuyitFixit Looking ...forward ..
certainly didnt look like factory soldering on those pads, so seems like they already were manipulated before you got it... so yeah.. keep throwing new expensive RGB LEDs into this device and blown them from n inferior component/design, and make this the most expensive cheap PAR on the globe.
They are very cheap.. from China (not western resellers) they are like 10 to 50 GBP depending on power.. even here in Europe/UK Farnell got this PAR180 to 65GBP.
A shame you just neuter and likely throw away even the working ones 30W RGB-LEDs and like your made of money.. they can be handy these 30W RGB LEDs
Thx for the vid.. even if it don't make sense from a financial perspective... it still landed you a +1 from here and that is likely what matters... content..
Thanks 👍There was only 1 of the LED's that was still working but it has probably been over driven (the case was also discoloured) and I'm not sure how long it would have lasted. I'm planning on having another look at this and changing the current sense circuit on the IC's which seems to be done by the two R300 resistors which are in parallel. It was also suggested to bolt the LED modules to the heat sink so I might do that too. Yes it didn't make sense from a financial prospective but I bought it to repair, and initially I thought it was only the 3 chips. I'll probably do a video with a couple of short repairs and a revisit on this one at some point.
Discos full of sweaty people....if anything is going to corrode its salty air 🤣
😂😂😂😂😂👍
😝😍
Hello. How can I contact you directly? I have a faulty gearbox control module for a super yacht which I think may be interesting to you
Thanks!
Hi Charlie, it's the channel's name at out look dot com. I'm not too sure how I would be able to test such a device?
I sent you an email. I hope you received it
Charlie
Probably could get a replacement board cheaper
I didn't think of a whole board. I've just have a quick look but couldn't seem to find any that looked the same.
Looks like the person who sold it did their research on fixing and found out the repair cost would be close to buying a new one.
Yea QTX gear is usually ok.... But can be had for very reasonable prices so repairs aren't really worth it
Could be, I just looked back to see who I bought it from and it was "DFB Sound and Light Warehouse Ltd" on eBay. Perhaps it was a customer return and under guarantee or perhaps they looked at it and deemed it uneconomical? I guess we'll never know.
I guess it depends on what the fault actually was. If it was just a wire that had came off the blue for instance. Problem is you never really know what the fault is until you get it on the bench. I've had items a few times where I haven't found a fault at all and they work perfectly, other times I've had things like the AVerMedia video capture device where it was described as "No power" and it turned out to be a firmware issue (which I actually figured out how to rebuild the firmware for it, and flash it via a special undocumented bootloader mode).
LED chip is expensive ... i suppose. .
Yeah seems so, these are 30W LED modules.
i know exactly why those have failed and will fail again no current limit ;)
I'm sure the driver chip does current limiting, and it's set by two resistors. I had thought about changing those (still might yet) to lower the current 🙂
@@BuyitFixit yea would not be surprissed if they are set a bit high
Hi, I love all your videos and I admire your knowledge. I would like to ask you if you can help me identifying an smd component from a Nintendo switch. I have a photo of it. Do you have an email address in order to send the photo? kind regards
Sure it's the channel's name at out look dot com
@@BuyitFixit I sent the email. Please inform me if you have received it. kind regards Ioannis Balouktsis
So first the stage light was feeling blue, but because of the high LED prices you are feeling blue now.
You still have a problem, so I would say no fix. 🤔🤣
😂😂😂😂
That's a noisy fan!
Or a sensitive microscope 🙂
Hmmmm??
We come seeking advice Canny Lad.
We currently buy stuff off the E website, faulty spares or repair etc. We also repair stuff from a local electronics dumping facility. Most stuff we fully refurbish and get in clean, fully functional condition.
However, we are concerned about 2 things.
1. My other half is currently on Personal Idependance Payment, would he be in breach of the law if he was to obtain a few extra pounds in his pocket through sale of repaired white goods?
2. How much tax would he have to declare quid for quid on any financial supplimentary money coming out of his sales? Does E website take a big slice of the money if a sale is made?
We have NOT sold anything so far, but need to stay within the boundaries of what is legal.
Many Thanks & Warmest Regards
Full support for your channel as always.
Wayne, Nina & Barbara
👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Hi Nina, Unfortunately I don't really know much about PIP payments etc so I couldn't really advise you on that. I think you would only pay tax on any profit made, (not on the price of the sale after all fees / parts etc) although then again I'm no expert on this either. I think Ebay takes a different amount based on the category, but I've not sold anything on Ebay for years, but if you use paypal they also take a cut too! Sorry I'm not really that much help on this one...
I had a Citycolor in - the power distribution board came inverted from factory and shorted out the psu
Damn that sucks 😢
@@BuyitFixit last week a psu for an amplifier that was configured for 120V - good thing I saw it before I plugged it in. Manufacturers F up too!