Top 7 Myths Of Shoe Repair | Kirby Allison
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
- In today's video, Kirby Allison sits down with Jim Mcfarland, our resident cobbler for the Kirby Allison Shoes Restoration and Repair Program, to debunk our 7 most common myths of shoe repair.
Based in Florida, Jim Mcfarland is a multiple award winning, third generation cobbler, and the only man to touch any of the shoes sent in to our program for repair, guaranteeing only the best possible care for them.
Visit the website for more information on our certified shoe restoration and refurbishment program here:
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I blame this channel for my buying 7 pairs of good year welted shoes in the past 3 months. But it's also the best money I've spend on any hobby in recent memory. So thank you!
LOL, his passion is a bit contagious
lol me too! 🤣🤣
Same here! And they say money can't buy happiness 🤣
how is buying expensive shoes a hobby?
@@bjornegan6421 try it it gets addictive lol
I really love listening to Mr Jim. Fountain of information and so humble. The best of American craftsmen.
Putting his “heart and sole in it” appeared to go right over your head Kirby :-) That was his only moment. Nice informative video. Thanks.
Really am admiring that three piece pinstripe suit, Kirby.
amen … amen
There Is One Manufacture Of Shoes In The World Using A Long Traditionnal Process Vegetal Tanning, Aproximatly 11 To 12 Months Is JM WESTON Made In France.
The stripes don't line up. Nice but not quite the attention at the tailor that Kirby project shoes get I guess.
Pocket square is distracting and cheap looking.
Kirby and Jim, you hit on some great points that support the logic of pursuing higher end, recraftable shoes. The environmental concerns also are spot on. Bravo to you both!
Jim did a wonderful job on my Allen Edmonds, and they are much better than ever and continue to be my favorite shoes. The JR soles are fantastic, Jim’s workmanship was amazing. Great points in the video; when I travel, I travel lightly, so I use a very light pair of plastic shoe trees and I stuff a few tissues (from the hotel room) around the front when I put them in to absorb the moisture (human feet sweat a lot) and even for one night I bring a 2nd pair of shoes. I highly recommend the Kerry Allison shoe restoration, absolutely worth it in the long run, even medium term for that matter. The JR videos on the hanger project are extremely interesting and educational. Thank you!
Another video where I learned something. Sending in a bespoke pair for Jim to work on soon. Thanks Kirby and Jim.
Thanks as always for your incredibly helpful videos. You’ve been such a help, in fact, that I deviated from my normal pattern of buying all of my shoe care supplies from Amazon, and instead went through the Hanger Project to purchase a full array of Saphir products. Your customer service was fantastic.
With that said, a modest request for videos such as this would be to include time stamps in the video description for key points, such as for each of the seven myths. I love these videos, and definitely want to learn more from you. But, I don’t quite have 26 minutes for CZcams before work in the morning, and scrubbing through a video to find where each of the tips come is rather arduous.
Again, I’m splitting hairs here, because your videos are already so excellent. But, just a friendly request from a fan to take them to the next level.
Very glad to hear that you enjoy the videos, and were happy with your purchases! We really appreciate it.
As for your suggestion for the video time stamps, that is a very well made point and something that we shall have to look into. I appreciate that being something that would help a lot of people.
Thank you for your prompt and generous response, Mr. Allison. I have over a decade of experience in customer service, and can say that your work here and elsewhere is top notch.
I find channels like this an oasis of pleasure and calm as I’m not a wealthy man but buy quality and wear what I like and look after my kit as all my shoes/boots are Goodyear welted and give me so much pleasure. Great video 👍🏻🏴
I'll definitely be resoling my Carminas through you. Trouble is they're so well-constructed to begin with, it may be a while!
Carmina Shoes are well made but I just do not like the round toe. I see they only recently introduced a more square toe though.
Really enjoyed this. The art of this, just intrigues me. Very, very good information. Thanks you guys !
I’ve just come across this channel and my god it’s outstanding, I live in England I’m 54 now and growing up I can remember my school shoes black Oxford Brogue getting resoled at least once during the school year. I always buy full leather shoes and Chelsea Boots , my late father who was a young man in the 1960’s always said a gentleman should always have at least one pair of Chelsea Boots in his wardrobe I have 3 pairs black chestnut and brown suede. Happy New Year Kirby
Excellent Video Kirby ... loads of great information. Keep up the good work!
thoughts on sole savers? put on a brand new shoe/or resole? I feel like it's a no brainer, but some don't like it.. why?
That music when the questions come up... such class!
Really great sole finish nice work guys, best of luck
Great information. I have bought almost all of my AE shoes from EBAY. I love them. Now I know, based on this video, that I can get the cork replaced to fit my feet, versus the previous owner. Win!
That 3 piece looks incredible.
I found a loake 1880 for $19 in a thrift store and I was happy but to find a John lobb for $75 is just another level 😂. Amazing work on the restoration 👍👍
Cool set 👍🏽
Great video. Thanks.
Kirby Allison thank you for all your knowledge I’ve bought 3 pairs of Allen Edmonds just this year because of your knowledge and how to polish shoes. I have a question I have a pair of elephant skin boots with leather soles can you resolve those with jr soles?
they sound fantastic! Send us some pictures! With regards to resoling, yes you can of course have them resoled with JR soles.
Hello Kirby, I have a quick question about adjusting shoe sizes. I inherited a pair of AE loafers from my grandfather. He was a size 10B, and I am a size 9D. I had the shoes resoled and stretched slightly to fit my D-size foot, but they are still a bit long. Clearly, wearing the shoes is more about remembering my grandfather than perfect fit, but I was wondering if there was anything I could do to help the shoes fit a little better. Thanks!
If you’re making your way to Cheaney in Desborough you could swing by Gaziano & Girling in Kettering and take a visit to Sanders in Rushden for the Steve McQueen Hi Top, amongst there other traditional and beautifully crafted shoes and boots.
Great video
I wish you'd spent more time covering actual shoe repair myths, as opposed to just pushing JR soles.
The only two real shoe repair myths you covered were that cork should always be replaced, and that a factory re-last is always superior.
Sorry guys, but this one isn't up to your standard.
Well Done Gentleman!
Great information I would never think of considering when having a nice pair of shoes.
That three piece pin stripe suit turned out fine!
Found a pairbof Edward Green Halifax Chukka boots in the thrift shop for less than $20. Dainite soles, in excellent condition and in my size. They fit like they were made for me and with a handful of shoes to choose from already, I'll probably never have to get them resoled.
Is it possible to repair a shoe if the leather has split at the top of the heal ?
one of the reasons i watch these videos is a disdain for the culture of buying things just to throw them away. high street stores are full of clothing that will struggle to stand up to a year or two of regular use, half the price of something you could wear comfortably for several. its plain wasteful to buy this tat, better to buy once if you can.
one thing i dont see mentioned here a lot though is the english brand Trickers, anyone in the comments got any experience with them? it was one of those that really got me to stop and consider investing in a proper shoe. everything about it just screamed made to last, from the almost lacquered seeming surface of it to the shape that seemed designed to give you a lot of room where you need it without being loose.
Tricker's? Among the best cordwainers in the world. They have a Royal Warrant from HRH Prince Charles, which isn't something that gets handed out to just anyone who applies. Personally, I had a pair of their boots for over a decade, only selling them to finance another purchase - which, in hindsight, was a decision I regret. If you like their style, and can afford the purchase price, go for it.
Good point re taking them back to the original factory, I’ve def had the come back not being the right shape any more. Also, it takes 2-3 months which is an unnecessarily long time!
Would also appreciate your views on how many times a pair of shoes can be repaired, I’ve had mine refused by the original manufacturers after having diligently sent them back three or four times.
(For info I live in London and with the weather and all the walking my shoes take a lot of punishment!)
Jonathan L why did they refuse them? If they are in good condition and can be repaired that does not seem right!
Rey 88 the reason I was given is that the welt was worn out from the 3-4 repairs. This was from Church’s back in the days they were good, now I wear Crockett and Jones and though I’ve not yet had this issue they state on their website that 4 times is the max. It doesn’t make sense as I understand you can replace the welt? When I took the pair in question to a normal cobblers they managed to get it done in 3 days flat and cheaper....
What layer of the leather do you have the top middle lower etc. etc. that makes a big difference which when I comes to shoes you probably want soft or leather so and top leather bottom bother etc.
Hi Kirby. I have a pair of deerskin cap toe oxfords, and they’re pretty beat up. I don’t have any high-level cobblers in my area, and I’m interested in sending them out to you guys. Does your cobbler have experience with deerskin shoes? The leather is super supple and looks like it has taken a beating even from a small scuff. What do you think? Can I email you guys some pictures?
That new suit is awesome, I just moved to Denton for school, do you have a store I can actually visit?
Glad you are local. We don't have a physical shop, however if you have any shoes that you want shining, using our service, you can feel free to drop them off in person and say hi.
Alan Flusser suit! Ahh, I’m learning so much!! I am a woman, but/and I love watching your videos.
Alan also does some incredible women's wear! Im very happy that you are also enjoying our content and learning something from it. Let us know what content you would want to see more of
Kirby Allison Thanks. I’ll definitely look into it!
Kirby, my dad left many pairs of quality classic dress shoes after he passed. They are great shoes and with great sentimental value. The problem is my foot is about 2 sizes bigger than his. Is it possible to retrofit those shoes to fit me? Thank you 🙏
No. Apart from maybe using some parts of his shoe to replace parts of a shoe that fits you. You can take the largest piece of leather off of his shoe (like the quarter or vamp), remove a small piece from a shoe that fits you (like the facing), and cut the leather from your dad's shoe to replace it. That's not impossible, but it's really the only way to save some of his shoes, if you only care about the sentimental value. Because trying to get 2 more full sizes out of a shoe is not realistic.
Hi Kirby, big fan. I’m fortunate to live in Northampton, although I’m originally from London. I’m in Wollaston which is Dr Martin and NPS territory.
Churches, Crocket & Jones and Trickers are all within easy reach as is Edward Green ( all recently visited ) John Lobb is is in the same area. Barkers is in Earls Barton ( just up the road from Wollaston) and Cheaney is a few miles further along in Desborough. Your American followers may be interested to know that, should they bring their Churches shoes to Northampton, they will not be repaired if they have had any repairs elsewhere. Churches usually direct you to the Duston cobbler, if you are from around here. I recently had a pair of Churches fitted with JR soles at Superior Services in Weston Favell. They are my ‘go-to’ shoe repairs since the wonderful cobbler in Wellingborough ceased trading. A genuinely good man who, when I went in for a new leather sole, said only the tips needed repairing and did a beautiful job of ‘ patching in’ a tip to the sole and said the heels, which I thought could be replaced at the same time, had plenty of life and didn’t need replacing. Such honesty was much appreciated and I had all my shoes repaired there for some years. I am pleased to say I have shoes and boots by Churches, Loake, John Lobb, Jeffery West, Interno8, Jones and, for some strange reason, two pairs of Bass Weegun tassel loafers. As an innocent youth ( age 12 ) I had a Saturday job in Porches of Upper Street in North London. It was a traditional cobblers where my uncle worked. I had the usual Saturday ‘boy’ jobs of sweeping up, making tea and arranging the shop window. I was also tasked with the seriously hard, for a boy, job of sewing buckles on Mary Janes ( or Clarke’s children’s shoes ) I watched a lovely old Irishman, Joe, work leather, stitching, skiving(?) and finishing shoes not realising I was watching a master at work. As a callow youth I had my head filled with joining the Army or being a pop star. What an apprenticeship I missed out on. As a fan of yours I have become a real aficionado of keeping my shoes in the best possible condition. A lifelong Kiwi/ Cherry Blossom disciple, I am now a devotee of all things Saphir which has now been adopted by my son, also a shoe aficionado. I hope we have become comrades in our love of the glorious shoe. This brings me to my simple request, as a friend, please stop saying LARB. I visited John LARB, I had the pleasure to talk to the folks at John LARB, I recently bought a pair of John LARB. It’s LOBB. Even if you have to affect a Dick Van Dyke ‘ gawd blimey Maury Poppins’ accent please, please, pretty please with sprinkles on top have a go at LOBB. Lifelong Americana fan ( I love your accent ) but sometimes you just have to have a go at going native. Occasional customer at Davidoff St James, and really enjoyed your episode there, you should trundle down to JJ Fox cigar merchants sometime ( it’s between Davidoff and Lock & Co on St James) you can see the ledgers of their distinguished clientele and sit in Churchill’s chair. Warmest regards, Alan
Ooooh, I've been to James J. Fox - I love that store! It took me quite a while to find it though. My phone's map did not distinguish between the several St. James places, lanes, mews, etc., in London and I ended up in Walthamstow somehow lol. But I eventually found my way back to the right St. James's Street, selected a delicious Havana, and retired to the lounge upstairs for a cup of excellent English tea and a fine cigar. For all of it, I got to ride the trains a lot and see a part of London I wouldn't otherwise have seen - it was a great afternoon.
What's funny though is that I hear Kirby saying LOBB, rather than LARB. I guess that's my own American accent and I'm not even from Texas!
James P
Hello James, That’s quite a detour you had, culturally and architecturally speaking. I haven’t been to Walthamstow for some years ( my wife is from Chingford, not too far away, and the company I now work for had a branch office there ) It’s a very diverse borough. The jewel in its crown ( imho ) is the Grade 2 listed Manze Eel, Pie & Mash shop. A London tradition dating back a hundred years. There is a beautiful explanation of the building and the history of pie and mash on historicengland.org. The slogan goes: Pie ‘n Mash, it’s a London Thing or You Either Love Pie ‘n Mash Or You’re Wrong. Sadly the shops are dying out, as I found out recently when I went to call into the Manze’s in Chapel Market in Islington ( where I’m from ), and found it had closed down. I went there as a child in a pram and had pie and mash with my Mum and Dad and Sister regularly. Wonderful, precious memories. I digress. Mayfair, and it’s environs, is a glorious place to be at any time. Rich in history and splendour with many fine and famous, and infamous, places to eat, drink and watch a wonderful world go by. Afternoon tea in Fortnum & Mason ( sadly the dress code has fallen by the wayside. Flocks of T-shirt’s, backpacks and sneakers. I’m too working class to be a snob but it is a little disheartening to see so few jackets and ties in such a lovely restaurant ) and off to Dukes for a signature Vesper or maybe a stroll to the Lanesborough for a refreshing Spritz in the beautiful library bar. I understand they also have a cigar and cognac lounge but have yet to investigate further.
I am so glad you enjoyed London and got to ride ‘The Tube’ I don’t suppose it’s the same as my visit to the New York subway with all it’s iconic stops but an experience anyway. As for accents; I’ll try this but I’m regretting it already as I know how badly humour travels. What’s the difference between a bison and a buffalo? You can’t wash your hands in a buffalo ( see, I told you it wouldn’t work! ) Look after yourself and stay safe. Kindest regards, Alan
You will be my future cobbler.
I'm just getting into nicer Menswear and shoes.
My first purchases have been Santoni loafers $1000 and $650.
I hope you will be able to continue with me on my journey
one question i do have is, assuming i have a reasonable quality pair of shoes, is it possible to have them stretched to a half size larger? i bought a pair that i really like cheap as new old stock, but theyre just too small. ive taken them to a cobblers to have them stretched but the results were rather poor, no discernible difference.
I just bought a used pair of Allen Edmonds loafers, which is better for me, to choose a local cobbler or to send them to the factory for a resole?
Local
Hey Kirby, I love the videos, I just have a question, do you have a conscious reason why you don't use the word "when"? It seems you only use the word "whenever" in it's place, it makes me feel like you don't remember when anything happened when you say "whenever we went there" or "whenever I got these shoes"
Ive had my pair of Carmina loafers for two months and the toes wore out. I’m struggling with the fact that I have to have the souls replaced now and put tow cap on them. I paid $450 for these shoes and now I have to pay another 250 to have them sent back to the factory? It just seems astronomically high. Any advice for me. I want to put on so this doesn’t happen again, but that cost a lot too.
You said on an earlier AE video that a cobbler cannot match what the original shoe factory can do. Which is the myth?
I love that suit, shirt and tie
I'd say the biggest myth (based on my own experience) is that it's cheaper to repair a pair of shoes rather than buy a brand new pair. None of the expensive brands of shoe fit me because they are not available in wide widths. They have not figured out that people have different shaped feet.
Depends on what you call expensive shoes. As far as I know every quality brand makes wide shoes (Carmine Allen Edmonds being only two examples) what you’re saying simply isn’t accurate regarding size. Whether the repairs are less expensive than a replacement depends on what needs to be replaced and how much a new shoe costs
I would definitely repair a nice shoe and have it for many years as oppose to buying cheap models
@2:53: This is an oddly ironic statement, given that Kirby seems to be doing what he's deriding about (supposed) other businesses. That is, he brings in the business while other people deliver the actual work.
I have several pairs of very nice quality shoes as well as some western boots that were made for me. Do you only resole Allen Edmonds?
No we resole many different brands of shoes. Allen Edmonds are just a brand that most people in America would have known as a starting point to higher quality mens shoes.
Kirby Allison, and so you would resole western boots as well?
Does Rotation really help or is it just the time you prolong by wearing another shoe meanwhile? of course if 1 shoe lasts 5 years by daily wearing 4 will make them last 20 years.
If that is a bottle of Carpano Antica Vermouth in the background, best to store it in the fridge. It will go bad if left out at room temp.
Thank you for the warning!
hardcore Accent by "Hans" i love it.
Kirby, will you attend the shoe shine championship in amsterdam march 7th?
The finishing touch, is when he talks softly to the shoe, it instantly becomes durable. 😌
K A , do you have a pair or two of western boots in your closet ? what boots do you own ? be safe. ~ JDS/CT
You'll only get junk Allen Edmonds for $50 on ebay. Toss in an Allen Edmonds reconditioning for $125 minimum and you're at $175. Watch ebay for $100-$150 shoes and then you'll at least get a year use before resole.
Can a pair of shoes with a Dainite sole be resoled with leather?
Yes.
Starts 4:00
@Kirby, I have a pair of harness boots.
Will you resole them for me
Leather outsoles are slippery as hell. Try walking on carpet with a high gloss leather outsole.
Great video Kirby! I'm curious why wouldn't you add a thin layer of rubber sole for longer lasting wear? is it because of the way it feels and looks?? or is it as a purist gentleman decision?
Locally (Austin) shoe/boot repair is hopeless 😢
I do not understand why the cobbler is wearing an apron in this situation.
#Branding
Can’t confuse the boss with the employee now Can’t we?
Damn 😅 My shoes are about £100 from Dune London and they last me years and shine amazingly. Not sure I'd spend hundreds and hundreds 😅😅😅
It is a little odd to see a repair with branded soles- I guess that can be a thing- but generally from what I have seen people tend to sear away from that kind of thing as it has evolved from the factory item.
If you buy a size 12 , can you make it an 11 1/2 ?
What? No.. lol
see, this sort of thing would've been an actual shoe repair myth.
generally, no. even if you kind-of-sort-of could, I reallllly wouldn't suggest it.
Is it really true that you can’t get good repairs in America? I live in U.K. and I buy from trickers, lobb and edward green. I get the latter two shoes repaired through the shoemakers and you always get a great job. Just seems odd that in a country the size of America you don’t get the same service!
We can't seem to make a decent baguette, either!
There are some quality cobblers but it is rare. We are a toss away society.
That suit is fire. Goddamn, Kirby.
This would have been a good 10 minute video.
I buy redwing iron rangers.. So I'm a bit on the rougher side of things.
Is this still the case that Jim does all the work? What did he do before this
As a german, Hans' brutal german accent always makes me cringe a bit. "Ziss is for ze sickness of ze lezza." :D Great video, Kirby!
That's funny because as an American, I love his accent!
Meant to type Kerby Allison not ‘Kerry’ - spellchecker!
Somehow you STILL got his name wrong 🤦♂️
Buy once cry once!! Buy alot cry alot!!!! Lol
May I be candid: Jim is bas ass and obviously knows his stuff :-)
Gott schütze das ehrbare Schuhmacherhandwerk !!!
Amen
What was that? 13:44
It’s like a kínd of bird
It was a bird.
Great stuff as usual....both men are real pros, and gentlemen
Suggestive criticism.....keep it moving via a bullet pointed presentation.
One minute or so per "myth'......sorry, this video was too slow, so you lost me at 8 minutes.
Second...
The cobbler is cool but the other guy looks like he should be tying a lady to railroad tracks.
What are you using now thst JR have gone bankrupt?
like
$200 for a repair? What are you guys getting in boots and shoe that went through hell and need a complete overhaul? I certainly hope it's not just $200 for just a resole alone.
200 lmao
:)
Kirby, you dress so well and possess so much style knowledge...i just wish you'd have a neater, tidier, more modern hairstyle. in my humble opinion, it seems like you don't put as much effort into ur hair as you do for clothes/shoes. cheers!
I think his hairstyle is just fine.A classic style.Can 't be better !!!
@@viswanathrao4364 no harm using matte product, having the hair look more controlled and tidying up the edges
the audio is terrible
Why there is so mch interest in Cobblers? Joseph Stalin's nickname was Kobe ... a Cobbler.
Shoe making has come a long way. However, modern shoes prices are far too high for the quality and the material used. Brand Name shoes are not worth it, yet, media advertising conditions people to buy them. How very sad?
You are to expensive. It’s a lot cheaper in the uk to send them back to the manufacturer to have them completely redone.
FIRST....
1800 dollar shoes LMAO YEAH OK
The volume difference between your voices makes it very difficult to listen to this.
We'll take a second look at that. Sorry.
You take too long to get to the point
Allen Edmonds is absolutely the entry level shoe.
Not impressive at all. Wood and plastic blocks, Blake stitched.
I mean, not a PoS, but only entry level
Allen Edmonds is not Blake stitched, just FYI
Took forever to get through the self-praise/advertising to the meagre content. The key points would take 1/4 the time to present. Overall, waste of time.