Friend, yours is the first video I've found with any useful information. Most are ten minutes of telling you to clean the burner or even just turn the thing on. No one else has mentioned crystallization of the ammonia. Nice one. I'll subscribe.
Boiling point is a function of both temperature and pressure. The pipes of that fridge are not ambient pressure, but elevated, although I don't know the value.
It's charged by weight typically in liquid state on direct expansion units. How ever it is beyond the scope of an untrained person to do so and telling you exactly what to do could result in severe personal injury or death without the training that comes with proper education on the matter. The gas is combustible at the right mixture and extremely toxic.
The fridge uses a chemical reaction inside. The liquid is ammonium sodium dichromate in aqua ammonia (equimolar ammonia to water mixture) the one in my frige had a good electric element but bad gas burner. Couldnt find a reasonably priced burner for it and replaced with a tripple jet flame cigarette roaster lighter burner assembly plus the old burner frame. Works extremely well and instant ignition too.
Well I learned something New. I didn't know about Crystal Build up inside Piping. I'll bet a Welders Air Slag Hammer would Work better at Dislodging These Crystals. What do you think? Also, What happens to the Crystals? Do they re-dissolve into the Ammonia Liquid? Can a Filter be installed to help remove the Crystals? Do you need to do this every Year when your Cleaning out the Flue? Do you use Household Ammonia to Recharge your Unit? Or do you just Buy Commercial Ammonia? I didn't see a Ammonia Sniffer Censer with an Alarm installed on this Refrigerator. Do you not use them? Thanks for the upload mate. Your knowledge is Appreciated. P.S Please Answer these Simple Questions for me.
My fridge works well sometimes but most of the times doesn't. When I switch it off for a while, then it gets better for a little bit. Burner is clean, position is always horizontal. Could it be the ammonia frost and the procedure on your video might help? Or would you suggest something different?
@pafigoro most definitely crystal build up in pipes. Flip it over. And someone in the comments said to use a Orbital sander against the pipes instead of using a hammer. Either or.. Just follow the video
Hello. I have a similar problem. My fridge works well on 230v but poorly on gas (9-15 celsius). I have cleaned the pipe and the burner several times, and 1 time it also worked well on gas (1-3 celsius) but now it doesn't want to anymore. Have not tested and turn it upside down and bang on the pipes, since it works as it should on 230v. Any suggestions on what could be wrong? The flame is blue and the heat comes out of the pipe as it should. The outside temperature is between 10-20 celsius (day/night). Thanks for a great video!
So when it comes to gas, sometimes bad or cheap gas burns black soot. This can prevent heat from transferring onto the metal. Maybe try cleaning it out with a long bottle brush or pipe cleaner. Hope it helps
I have a fridge and the heating element works fine , i can feel the heating and also can hear the boiling ammonia but its not cooling at all , its been sitting a long time ,do you have any tips ? Is it a crystal build up issue or am i waisting my time ?
Have you followed my video instructions? Flip it over. Someone mentioned in the comments to also try use a orbital sander on the pipes to cause a harmonic vibration to free up crystals
Hi again. Thank you for your reply. May I ask if there is a significance to the two hour period between pipe tapping. In other words would more frequent tapping be beneficial or does the contents need to settle between tapping sessions. Cheers Tim
Interesting! I would like to build a groundwater source heat pump with a Ammonium compressor & refrigerant. But have not found a small enough compressor, do you know of any resources ? Cheers
Thank you for that. Recently ,with the fridge not in use, the ambient dropped below freezing.Now the fridge is hardly working, is there a fix do you know. Cheers Tim.
Hi there , have you tried this same method of flipping it over and tapping the pipes. But your ambient temp would most definitely play a role in this. Because the outside part must be heated first, so that the transition between liquid and gas can take place. Maybe test it inside and insulated building first. Hope it helps! Cheers!
The heating element is losing too much of its heat due to excess cold external temperature. The common solution for RVers experiencing (ironic) loss of fridge cooling because of winter robbing all the heat,er element warnth, is to stick tape over roughly half of the outside wall intake vent hatch openings to obstruct air flow a bit, slow it down from escaping too fast. Or, turn up the thermostat from 5 to 7 during winter, and it's a different value with propane. This tip and other valuable insights found on "John Daniel" Chanel, on the video about halfway "RV Refrigerator care and settings (answers to a viewer)"
My fridge is exactly like this one, I did all the steps but the problem the internal temperature only drops to 10 Degrees Celsius with constant condensation of water on the inner pipes that are at the rear.No freezing or whatsoever even after 48hours. Please help
Sound like you have a heating problem. You need to make sure your element/ or gas is 100% working. The hotter the heating end can get, the better the cooling side
Mine has a problem with the fridge warm (15deg C) and the freezer cold (-15deg C). I have turned it upside down, rocked it a bit and knocked on the pipes but the problem remains. I have not allowed it to sit upside down for 24 hours though. Is that necessary? Do the crystals get dislodged just by tapping on the pipes?
Hi there. The crystals are supposed to break free by tapping on the pipes. That's why you need to follow my video step by step. Then very import, these types of fridges must be very level in order to work properly. Make 💯 sure its level before plugging in back in
@@aldovanzyl-jackofalltrades8446 Thanks for your prompt response. Yes, I do make sure that the fridge is level. One question about the dislodged crystals whether they subsequently still clog the pipes as they circulate in the system? Is it also possible that high ambient temperature above 32deg C does affect the cooling of the fridge drastically?
@expjw that one of the reasons we flip it around, and gently tap the pipes every 2 hours for 12 hours, and let it stand over night. Then the next moring the liquid will run back down, hence the reason for leaving the fridge for a few hours before testing. Just repeat the process, might be a stuck crystal.
Will try it once more, thanks. I've also read that the ambient temperature might be the cause as mine is rated ST (subtropical up to 36deg C) and not T (tropical up to 43deg C). Summer temperatures here in North Queensland, Australia do get very high.
I would think so (I'm not an expert of ammonia refrigerators), but keep in mind stainless steel doesn't conduct heat nearly as well as mild steel. Also, anhydrous ammonia is near impossible to come by due to if handled improperly can be hazardous. In my work with anhydrous ammonia we called it the two-step gas, meaning if you smell it you might make it two steps before you're on the floor and hopefully someone comes to drag you out of the vicinity of the spill.
It's charged by weight and can be added as either but it is beyond the scope of an untrained person to do so and telling you exactly what to do could result in severe personal injury or death without the training that comes with proper education on the matter. The gas is combustible at the right mixture and extremely toxic.
1:20 What is the point of using this system to then use an electrical heating element? The designer seems to be an absolute bubblehead. The only advantage of this system is that it doesn't require power, only heat.
Also, propane costs more, is a chore to refill, and runs out when you need it. Elec assists me to keep tanks full for emergency preparedness in event of a blackout. I'll need to use precious propane for furnace, stove, hot water tank. To that end, I'm retrofitting my hot water tank as an electric hybrid. In summer, at home with guests in RV, I can just leave it on, including electric rads and dehumidifier. There's the opportunity to save propane is to use an inductive element as hot plate. There is the potential to run off of the newly affordable solar, allowing us to stretch propane further, to use propane just for heater. Also, sometimes flame won't light, requires maintenance, or is even too hot or too cold, or windy outside. Propane/elec gives redundancy. RV and trailer parks sometimes have insufficient electricity, propane is good then as supplement with 120v. What is exciting is the opportunity to use an absorption process for space cooling using solar collectors designed for sun's heat.
Friend, yours is the first video I've found with any useful information. Most are ten minutes of telling you to clean the burner or even just turn the thing on. No one else has mentioned crystallization of the ammonia.
Nice one. I'll subscribe.
The crystals are ammonium sodium dichromate turning it upside down allows the crystals to settle and return to the boiling chamber..
I remember you, Smart guy. Now I work on A/C's as a side job. I found out ammonia has the highest latent heat of vaporization, 4x that of propane! Wow
A practical and useful video. Minor correction at 0:56- the boiling point of ammonia is -28F or -33C.
Boiling point is a function of both temperature and pressure. The pipes of that fridge are not ambient pressure, but elevated, although I don't know the value.
What a great idea, I hadn't thought or heard of tapping the pipes. Thanks for the tip!
Great knowledge and great video. Thanks for sharing!
One could alternatively utilise the high vibration oscillation of an orbital sander to dislodge the crystals : p
That Is a fantastic Idea
Good idea, but percussive impacts have a unique effect on structures.
Thank you Jack of all Trades!
I would like you to show me a video about how to refill the refrigerator
It's charged by weight typically in liquid state on direct expansion units. How ever it is beyond the scope of an untrained person to do so and telling you exactly what to do could result in severe personal injury or death without the training that comes with proper education on the matter. The gas is combustible at the right mixture and extremely toxic.
Aldo, thanks, very well done, to-the-point informative, sterkte :-)
Thank you very much
Hammer is the universal service tool. No lie.
The fridge uses a chemical reaction inside. The liquid is ammonium sodium dichromate in aqua ammonia (equimolar ammonia to water mixture) the one in my frige had a good electric element but bad gas burner. Couldnt find a reasonably priced burner for it and replaced with a tripple jet flame cigarette roaster lighter burner assembly plus the old burner frame. Works extremely well and instant ignition too.
amazing master thank you
Thank you for the direct and to the point video. I dont suppose you've heard from any chemist on a way to eliminate amonia crystals?
Hi, my please.
Nope not at all...
Cheers
Good job
thank u will try it
Well I learned something New. I didn't know about Crystal Build up inside Piping. I'll bet a Welders Air Slag Hammer would Work better at Dislodging These Crystals. What do you think? Also, What happens to the Crystals? Do they re-dissolve into the Ammonia Liquid? Can a Filter be installed to help remove the Crystals? Do you need to do this every Year when your Cleaning out the Flue? Do you use Household Ammonia to Recharge your Unit? Or do you just Buy Commercial Ammonia? I didn't see a Ammonia Sniffer Censer with an Alarm installed on this Refrigerator. Do you not use them? Thanks for the upload mate. Your knowledge is Appreciated. P.S Please Answer these Simple Questions for me.
My fridge works well sometimes but most of the times doesn't. When I switch it off for a while, then it gets better for a little bit. Burner is clean, position is always horizontal. Could it be the ammonia frost and the procedure on your video might help? Or would you suggest something different?
@pafigoro most definitely crystal build up in pipes.
Flip it over. And someone in the comments said to use a Orbital sander against the pipes instead of using a hammer. Either or..
Just follow the video
Hello. I have a similar problem. My fridge works well on 230v but poorly on gas (9-15 celsius). I have cleaned the pipe and the burner several times, and 1 time it also worked well on gas (1-3 celsius) but now it doesn't want to anymore. Have not tested and turn it upside down and bang on the pipes, since it works as it should on 230v. Any suggestions on what could be wrong? The flame is blue and the heat comes out of the pipe as it should. The outside temperature is between 10-20 celsius (day/night).
Thanks for a great video!
So when it comes to gas, sometimes bad or cheap gas burns black soot. This can prevent heat from transferring onto the metal.
Maybe try cleaning it out with a long bottle brush or pipe cleaner.
Hope it helps
very useful! Which mode,, power on or off would be more effective during the decrystallization (bottom-up) process?
Must be switched off, then flip upside down.
What type of crystals form inside the Anhydrous Ammonia system?
I have a fridge and the heating element works fine , i can feel the heating and also can hear the boiling ammonia but its not cooling at all , its been sitting a long time ,do you have any tips ? Is it a crystal build up issue or am i waisting my time ?
Have you followed my video instructions? Flip it over.
Someone mentioned in the comments to also try use a orbital sander on the pipes to cause a harmonic vibration to free up crystals
Hi again. Thank you for your reply. May I ask if there is a significance to the two hour period between pipe tapping. In other words would more frequent tapping be beneficial or does the contents need to settle between tapping sessions. Cheers Tim
More tapping is also good... how ever you feel.
Hi again. It worked!! Thank you so much. Tim.
Everything on mine is working but the ammonia seems to not be circulating. I am going to remove and try the upside down trick.
Sounds like you have a blockage. Hope you will get it sorted!
Did youfix it ? Same issue
Very useful
Interesting! I would like to build a groundwater source heat pump with a Ammonium compressor & refrigerant.
But have not found a small enough compressor, do you know of any resources ? Cheers
Sorry for only reaching out now, missed a few comments!
You can buy directly from MetraClark, or Tesco.
Thank you for that. Recently ,with the fridge not in use, the ambient dropped below freezing.Now the fridge is hardly working, is there a fix do you know. Cheers Tim.
Hi there , have you tried this same method of flipping it over and tapping the pipes. But your ambient temp would most definitely play a role in this. Because the outside part must be heated first, so that the transition between liquid and gas can take place.
Maybe test it inside and insulated building first.
Hope it helps!
Cheers!
The heating element is losing too much of its heat due to excess cold external temperature. The common solution for RVers experiencing (ironic) loss of fridge cooling because of winter robbing all the heat,er element warnth, is to stick tape over roughly half of the outside wall intake vent hatch openings to obstruct air flow a bit, slow it down from escaping too fast. Or, turn up the thermostat from 5 to 7 during winter, and it's a different value with propane. This tip and other valuable insights found on "John Daniel" Chanel, on the video about halfway "RV Refrigerator care and settings (answers to a viewer)"
Fokkit .... kan ek jou nie oor nooi vir 'n braai nie???? 😂
My fridge is exactly like this one, I did all the steps but the problem the internal temperature only drops to 10 Degrees Celsius with constant condensation of water on the inner pipes that are at the rear.No freezing or whatsoever even after 48hours. Please help
Sound like you have a heating problem. You need to make sure your element/ or gas is 100% working. The hotter the heating end can get, the better the cooling side
Hi ek het dit als gedoen hy word net warm bine elemnt werk als weet nie meer nie
Two months and I look for how to fill it and did not find video
Won't the crystals that break off inside the pipes cause a blockage along the line. Is it ok to run the fridge on 220v and gas at the same time.
They are supposed to liquefy again.
I don't see why you can't, it might speed up the process.
Mine has a problem with the fridge warm (15deg C) and the freezer cold (-15deg C). I have turned it upside down, rocked it a bit and knocked on the pipes but the problem remains. I have not allowed it to sit upside down for 24 hours though. Is that necessary? Do the crystals get dislodged just by tapping on the pipes?
Hi there. The crystals are supposed to break free by tapping on the pipes. That's why you need to follow my video step by step.
Then very import, these types of fridges must be very level in order to work properly. Make 💯 sure its level before plugging in back in
@@aldovanzyl-jackofalltrades8446 Thanks for your prompt response. Yes, I do make sure that the fridge is level. One question about the dislodged crystals whether they subsequently still clog the pipes as they circulate in the system? Is it also possible that high ambient temperature above 32deg C does affect the cooling of the fridge drastically?
@expjw that one of the reasons we flip it around, and gently tap the pipes every 2 hours for 12 hours, and let it stand over night. Then the next moring the liquid will run back down, hence the reason for leaving the fridge for a few hours before testing.
Just repeat the process, might be a stuck crystal.
Will try it once more, thanks.
I've also read that the ambient temperature might be the cause as mine is rated ST (subtropical up to 36deg C) and not T (tropical up to 43deg C). Summer temperatures here in North Queensland, Australia do get very high.
@expjw lets hope you can come right.
Take your time with it.
Also make sure there isn't any rust or muck where the heating element slides into.
I am thinking of building my own Ammonia System. Can Stainless Steel be used instead of Carbon Steel Tubing?
I would think so (I'm not an expert of ammonia refrigerators), but keep in mind stainless steel doesn't conduct heat nearly as well as mild steel.
Also, anhydrous ammonia is near impossible to come by due to if handled improperly can be hazardous. In my work with anhydrous ammonia we called it the two-step gas, meaning if you smell it you might make it two steps before you're on the floor and hopefully someone comes to drag you out of the vicinity of the spill.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 Thank you.
Ek kan hoor hoe kook die goed in die pyp maar niks
I like others that have posted here would like to know how to recharge the ammonia. Is it charged with a gas or a liquid???
It's charged by weight and can be added as either but it is beyond the scope of an untrained person to do so and telling you exactly what to do could result in severe personal injury or death without the training that comes with proper education on the matter. The gas is combustible at the right mixture and extremely toxic.
Or you make a video talking about it
I want to ask you about refueling the ammonia gas
Hi there. Its very dangerous. You have to be trained and have special equipment to refuel it!!!
1:20 What is the point of using this system to then use an electrical heating element? The designer seems to be an absolute bubblehead. The only advantage of this system is that it doesn't require power, only heat.
Because it's a dual system. Gas prices are rising, and it's more effective using solar power during the day.
Also, propane costs more, is a chore to refill, and runs out when you need it. Elec assists me to keep tanks full for emergency preparedness in event of a blackout. I'll need to use precious propane for furnace, stove, hot water tank. To that end, I'm retrofitting my hot water tank as an electric hybrid. In summer, at home with guests in RV, I can just leave it on, including electric rads and dehumidifier. There's the opportunity to save propane is to use an inductive element as hot plate. There is the potential to run off of the newly affordable solar, allowing us to stretch propane further, to use propane just for heater. Also, sometimes flame won't light, requires maintenance, or is even too hot or too cold, or windy outside. Propane/elec gives redundancy. RV and trailer parks sometimes have insufficient electricity, propane is good then as supplement with 120v.
What is exciting is the opportunity to use an absorption process for space cooling using solar collectors designed for sun's heat.
;