Bambu Lab A1 /A1 Mini Print Failures
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- čas přidán 14. 01. 2024
- Are your models breaking loose from the build plate on your Bambu Lab A1 or A1 Mini? This should fix your issue! LINKS:
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Helpful as always tom. Getting my a1 mini and .2mm nozzles later this week, can't wait!
Good advise as usual. It does sound like nozzle knock. It is a big problem when printing things in higher temp filaments like PETG/ABS/ASA. Switching to a non-crossing infill like gyroid or or rectilinear can help. As mentioned you can also mitigate by slowing the speed down, but you may need to slow things down a lot to give enough time to melt the plastic. So changing infill is usually the more desirable solution.
For small prints, like minis, these infills will not significantly increase print time. For large items it can increase by a percent or two, but its well worth it to avoid issues.
What a good tip, I have had a few knock-offs from the a1 mini, and I basically just use print bed glue to "fix" it, but this seems way smarter :) thanks!
My A1 mini is coming tomorrow (purchased on your recommendation). Can’t wait to try it out!
Perfectly timed video! I recently switched to Orca Slicer (my printer is a Creality 3 V3 SE) and Orca too has Grid as the default infill pattern. I had my first nozzle knock over a print and I was certain it was some Z-offset issues. I realize now it’s probably the grid infill that’s the culprit because I can audibly hear the nozzle dragging through the grid lines. I’ll definitely change to cubic or gyroid moving forward.
Great advice! Having just gotten an A1 this is definitely something I'll keep an eye out for.
Thank you, I’ve been having that problem and I bet you’re right this will fix my issue on my Bambu A1!!! I’ll try this tomorrow and report back.
I have some info for how I fixed my failed prints!! If you're stuck, try these:
Bambu Studio -> Others
- Uncheck "Reduce infill retraction"
Bambu Studio -> Quality
Set "Initial layer height" to 0.2
Edit the FDG PLA 0.2 nozzle profile -> Settings Overrides
- Set Z Hop Type to "Normal"
- Set Travel distance threshold to "0"
- Wash your PEI plate with soapy water & dry
Hope this helps
Thanks for sharing this, it helped quite a lot. It is a bit more stringy than default profile, but it works!
I was having problems with thinner longer parts that broke off (legs, swords, skeletons, etc.), because the filament started curling up on those small areas and layers became uneven.. So nozzle kept hitting them utill they snapped.
Being new to 3D printing I take notes on possible failures and solutions. Thanks!
My hero! I've been working on some supportless fdm minis and couldn't quite figure out why they were failing.
Such a great tip, these types of insights are super helpful!
Thanks for the great video and the awesome info. I cant wait for my a1mini to show up this week!!
Thanks for another great video Tom. Your video a few back (A1 mini review) convinced me to be the full size A1 and I LOVE IT! I bought the 0.2 nozzle at the same time, but have mostly been printing game accessories, so 0.4 is great. I’m actually considering getting a 0.8 for that stuff. Right now I’m printing a hexagon wall paint storage rack that matches the pattern for the color families for Army Painter Speedpaints 2.0, because I think it will look really cool, and because I need to make room for my Fanatic set that’s coming.
I guess I never considered all the things around my games that I could use this printer for. Thanks for the nudge. Excited to watch more of your content! Please keep up the good work.
Glad it helped you!
We have ordered our first now and can't wait to print on it.
I wanted to add that I have had great luck with these settings so far printing minis even as small as 15mm. One thing that made a huge difference when I was printing minis with smaller limbs, like skeletons, was to use the smooth plate that is included with the Bambu accessory pack. I hadn't tried it previously as I was having good luck with the textured plate, but I was having failures like the one you're describing from nozzle knock. While I do think using gyroid infill will help with some prints, I do think that the textured plate just has somewhat poor adhesion with smaller pieces (even after thorough soap and water cleaning) at least when printing quickly. I was getting periodic failures due to inertia flinging prints off the bed just enough cause issues, but the smooth plate (being obviously "stickier") has not only fixed all my 28mm prints, but was also the only way I was able to get 15mm to print at all, as brims were not strong enough to keep the mini held in place the entire time.
If you haven't already, I'd definitely recommend giving the smooth plate a try, at least for minis!
Do you use glue stick?or anything else on the smooth plate? Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@bingobangobungo7918 Nope! A thoroughly cleaned smooth plate with Tom’s settings and gyroid infill and 15mm miniatures stick very well! I have a community post and video on my channel if you’re curious about how my 15mm prints came out using these settings.
You really only need glue if you use a cold plate with PETG, which isn’t ideal for minis anyway.
Great video as always! Would love a video on supports and how to use them
Thanks man. Good to see this as you ask for help anywhere and the fan boys bite your head off because they thank Bambu machines are perfect
Totally agree......klipper has been a bit like that for me as well....which is a shame because it's often fiddly hardware that interferes with brilliant software design.
Tom is a true servant to the community, very few people would intentionally make prints worse to learn what is going on and why.
I'm seeing some comments about the beds on A1 minis being warped/bent just a little too much for the bed leveling compensation to keep up with... probably at higher speeds the Z axis can't jerk back and forth fast enough. I'm "weird" because I almost couldn't care less about print speed ....as long as it's not a step back to the late 80's.
....Accuracy with non-resin based materials is THE most important thing for me for me doing small scale work and functional fit parts. I am very encouraged to see discussions like this, for transparency and would recommend reviews over on the MyTechFun channel. Igor is a Hungarian engineer with seriously informative technical videos.... a great compliment to the ones on this channel.
Good info Tom. Thanks for sharing. Good news gyroid infill does not add time but fixes the problem.
And here i thought i was going to learn more about z-hop. I also switched to gyroid for most of my infills for this same reason to help prevent that buildup at the intersections of the grid pattern. Adaptive cubic is nice too, not sure if it causes nozzle knock. Either way, great explanation. Look forward to more of your videos as a subscriber.
The best solution is a much higher z hop.
I was having problems with very small layer heights having having the nozzle collide with vertical columns and other fragile features. Eg overhang tests in particular.
Setting z hop much higher completely solved this, and it's what I'd recommend
Can you tell where they hid that setting in Bambu Slicer? I might just be having an oblivious moment, but I can't find it.
Edit: found it. In case anyone else is looking: Filament Settings (from clicking to edit preset just to the right of the filament dropdown), then Setting Overrides.
@@user-gy8ek5oe3yI still can’t find it :(
Great info Tom!
Cubic/Cubic subdivision was what I saw most of the time as the fix to this, as it takes less time than gyroid and gives better structural stability, but of course that all depends on the part, regardless thank you for making this video, a lot of beginners that get into 3D printing especially with the user friendly bambus don't know about this.
Cubic is self intersecting just like grid and causes this repeated collision friction.
Just started mini printing with new A1 and this is happening can hear it happen was driving me nuts, this makes a ton of sense. Here we go.
I have not had this issue yet, but this is good to know 😊
Awesome tip. Just had my first print do this
Great video! Thank you!
Your trick helps probably but in general it’s a problem of layers being not cooled fast enough or behaving badly filament. I find clear filaments problematic. Lowering temperature or speed should help.
Great information. Thank you! Will try Gyroids.
I was having this issue on my A1 mini (with the FDG v7 .02mm profile), and 'fixed' it by adding a 12mm brim and cutting all accelerations down to 10%. But if I can speed those back up using this fill, that would be great! I'll tinker around a bit more, thanks for the ideas!
Great info and quick solution!
Nice, thanks for the information.
Helpful tips, as always from you. Thumbs up!
Interesting. I’ve heard this on the P1s group as well
I will try this! 👍
@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Thanks for the videos - I have been s ubscriber for a while - and just ordered an A1 mini off of your affiliate link - love these videos!
Great advice. Thanks alot for this!
Good advice. Thanks.
Thanks!
Great work!
Thanks for doing this video!
Love this channel, and the website. Please keep the content coming!
Do you never do 100% infill? I kinda love the heft of minis with that much... think I could still get that heft without 100%?
Never do 100% infill. Watch my original video on 3D printing minis for a full explanation. :)
Do the old glue a penny to the base trick.
@@SuperFunkmachine my god this is genius and so simple. I’m over here adding 2 hours to my print for NOTHING
I will try this solution today
Thx. Tip earned a sub
Thanks for the tip
Thank you for this
Tom, excellent advice, when the printer is doing GRID infil, you can hear the nozzle hitting each grid line as it crosses it. with Gyroid this does not happen as far as i have seen.
Couldn't be a more timely released video. I have just started getting this issue.
Thanks
thanks
Logical, thank you
lovely video
Hey this sounds familiar! Thanks for making a video!
Yep, I figured I had better try to replicate the problem and verify the solution/make a video and get the word out to everyone. :)
Thanks Tom you can teach an old dog new tricks
Thank youi.
I started hearing the dreaded nozzle knock on some prints, but it wasn't until a part got yeeted off the print bed at high speed half way during a 4 hour print that I needed to look into this problem. Who'd have thought it was the grid/cubic infill? Thanks! It's also a combination of high speed printing. I get nozzle knock frequently on my Creality printer when it's doing infill, but it's often just not moving fast enough to remove the part from the bed and would melt through the intersecting lines (or break them in some cases, if the filament was brittle).
Thx
I have been hearing the nozzle click hit the print. I think my adhesion is strong enough that it hasn't knocked it loose. the a1 is so much more reliable than my old ender (which I never tuned correctly). so far my only failed print was when my tube snagged. I'm sure I'll have more as I try more complicated prints
I've been very successful using Z-Hop although many have said it does more harm than good.
Out of curiosity, you used to use lightning infill on your older Cura profiles. Have you tried it for the Bambu yet?
Not yet, that would be more something I would possibly use with terrain pieces, not miniatures. :)
I've been having this very often with my Ender 3 V3 SE. It isn't so much that the whole print is knocked loose as individual supports or parts are being knocked around and fall clear or or start to tilt which then causes them to be hit again or wobble around as they are printed on top of which can cause the failure to escalate to a total loss. I don't have much infill compared to supports but I can't see any obvious crossing-over points in most layers but I will try this anyway. It is almost like the gantry is not being raised enough in the Z axis so it slowly gets closer and closer until the nozzle is being dragged over everything rather than just above
It handled it really well for the first month or two so it may just be a maintenance thing but nothing I have tried has worked so far. This is still a good trick to know about though and may help me
Any tips for dealing with curling? Opening the door/lid on my p1s helps, but the fan is already at 100%. I'm rocking a 0.2mm nozzle with your a1 mini speeds.
So my issue is when printing multiple models the print head travels across models that have already had their next layer applied. I print multiples to reduce waste on color changes. Is there a way to specify like a front to back order. (Need to print all at the same time to better model to changeover waste ratio)
Whoa! I've been having this problem on my Q5 delta. The nozzle always clicks when going over infill and some overhangs. I'll try gyroid. Thanks!
overextrussion or undercooling. I tried changing the pattern and still kicking. I watch the deformation of the supports in the end of the layer, and that caused overhigh. Z hop doesnt work between layers, just changing sections at the same layer, so this is a painful issue that i dont know how to resolve
Will the linked custom profile settings work for the A1, or is it exclusive to the A1 mini. I'm planning on getting the A1 in the next few weeks (the larger build surface for not a lot extra seems like a good idea to me) but having no experience, I don't know if the settings you mentioned here (and in the other Resin like print video) depend on build plate dimensions or not.
They work on the A1 (I've used them with mine) but I changed the temp to 210˚ with Sunlu PLA META on the A1 (link in the video description) as other filaments like hatchbox didn't do as well for minis on the full size A1.
I tried what you said to do and it did not work out very well, I tried somethings and found that if I did a infill of 100% It gave me the perfect print, I was doing very small prints and they all came out very good, Try it and tell me if it works.
Hey Tom. I also purchased an A1 mini, but couldn’t even start a test print before I ran into an issue. I fed a new roll of filament into the filament hub and confirmed it’s passing through, but the extruder gear does not seem to be catching it. Even when I try to push the filament in, it doesn’t seem to be reaching the melt chamber. I’ve got a ticket in with support, but just wanted to check if this is an issue you’ve encountered or heard about. Thanks, love the videos.
Are you depressing the extruder release lever when you are feeding the filament into the tube and it reaches the extruder and stops? I've found if I feed the filament to where it stops, depress the lever, then push a little more it will grab it.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors That (plus a little extra pushing) seemed to do it. Thanks!
Slow down initial print laywrs and clean with IPA. Solved it for me.
I use cubic and gyroid but still get the nozzle knock. It happens when it finishes infill and moves over the infill to print the internal solid infill reinforcing the walls. Nothing seems to help.
Commented!
I only have this issue with a) colour printing and b) multiple objects on the plate. This causes a cascading of failures 😢
I have had perfect adhesion on the A1 for weeks and now I cant seem to get the McGybeer possums to stay on the (textured PEI) build plate. I have tried cleaning/washing build plate with dawn, 99% alcohol, purple glue stick, changing from .16 to .20, changed from grid to gyroid, turned all models 90° , made possums bigger, turned off prime tower, turned on prime tower. Im on my 8th fail. :(
Do you guys have profiles for the Creality K1?
Nope, I can only make profiles for printers I own/use.
Algo comment. Love the vids
Also see - under "others" - the last setting there… (being checked by default) is also causing knockoffs.
Do you have an AMS, if so have you looked at wall mounting it?
Nothing I design is multi-color so I don't use the AMS.
Great video's I'm have a question about making 2d images into 3d prints with the orca slicer program???thank you
Sorry, this channel is about printing models for tabletop gaming, so cannot advise on that.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors okay thank you
One of my often failure is the nozzle knocking my model when moving around. Tried to print Recaro Phone Stand and often fails.
As far as printers - have you ever printed on the Kingroon KP3S Pro V2 for miniatures?
Yes, didn't do as well as the Ender-2 Pro.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
Thanks - I don’t have a FDM printer as yet - I would like to print miniatures on a FDM and with the help of your print profiles and your advice; I am leaning toward the A1 mini or the A1 itself. Again - Thanks
@@franksilva3566 both are really good, but I am seeing slightly better miniatures off of my two A1 Minis than I am on my full size A1.
Thanks for the video! Ive a quick question if I may? after printing loads of prints fine with the Bambu filament on the A1 mini, now im trying some Sunu filament im getting quite a bit of very fine (fluffy) stringing :-/. Is it something you've experienced? Im new to 3d printing and so aren't really sure what to do :-/ Is it just the filament isn't as good as the Bambu stuff maybe? thanks!
Hair drier
Ha :). Well yeah, that’s what I’ve been doing - but would be nice to get a good clean print off the plate if possible
Are you using my miniatures profile?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrorsalas not yet (guilty face). I haven’t needed them yet as haven’t really printed anything that small and detailed. Are there any particular settings that would help?
@@nickholl Sunlu PLA META is best for small models, I have not used it for anything big so cannot advise.
I am on gyroid but still having my models knockoff or fail. I was assuming it had to do with speed/accelerations. I turned them WAY down and now my prints work but take way longer then they should. If you have any advice on speed and acceleration settings for A1 it would be very appreciated!
Have you tried my Miniatures profile?
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors not yet! Just found your channel from this video, searching to fix my A1 problems. But I did subscribe so I'll be digging in soon
Can you make a video on how to reduce or avoid printing warping on Bambu A1 mini.
Lower bed temp a bit and add a brim are your two options.
I see an outer and inner trim, should I select both? Where can I find the Bed temp option@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
I set the Brim type to outer brim [5width] and the cool plate PLA to 20. Let see if that helps. Thanks@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
@@steveng6997 I didn't realize you were using a cool plate, try using the heated textured plate, you will get better adhesion.
tomb is the goat
I almost always use gyroid
Beep boop!!!
[Insert Quick Comment Here]
I wish to express my thoughts without coming across as unduly critical, but it appears that the argument presented lacks a foundational coherence. The notion of a "hit" is untenable in this context, primarily because, even under the assumption that the initial pathway has achieved solidity, the filament's inherent viscosity precludes any possibility of a collision. The ongoing extrusion, given its viscous nature, inherently leads to a gentle displacement as it traverses the pre-existing path. Friction only becomes a factor in situations of over-extrusion, wherein the preceding deposition surpasses the anticipated layer height, thereby permitting contact. In the absence of over-extrusion, the nozzle remains free from friction, positioned above the current layer, and the minimal friction arising from the outflow of viscous filament is virtually negligible.
Thanks!