Climbing Styles: Tomoa Narasaki's Fatal Flaw
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- čas přidán 27. 09. 2020
- Tomoa Narasaki is one of the best competition climbers we've ever seen. Heading into the Tokyo 2021 Olympics, though, there's one issue with his lead climbing that could end up costing him the gold medal.
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worth noting that dynamic movement isn't always less efficient, utilizing momentum can save a lot of energy and very slow static movement can use a lot of energy.
That's a good point! I definitely think there are a lot of instances where's Tomoas dynamism plays to his strength. Like you said, if he tried to move through everything statically, it would probably tire him out too much
Yes I agree. However the videos point was that in instances where dynamic movement IS less efficient, tomoa is unable to adapt
@@Smug_Jeremy yep I think this is exactly the point!👌
I think a climber good at using dynamic movement efficiently is Sean McColl
his way of moving takes a lot of energy in upper body and mainly in hands. He is not using his feet good enough to reduce forces on these muscles. Another small climber do things a lot better for long lead climbing, his name is Sean McColl, he is doing dynamic movement combined with perfect feet technic.
Personally, I rather see Tomoa being the best exponent and staying true to his style, than changing it just to be first place at everything.
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘 truly
Agreed!
Best comment I've read on CZcams in ages. Don't break the beta, break the game.
Spot on. This is his style. Stop complaining.
So true💪
Being a shorter climber I find moves like this almost necessary
same. but every now and then being small can be an advantage on a climb
Look at Lynn hill. There are usually ways if you have good technique.
@@roberty7999 as you progress, it becomes more often than not
I'm 4'11" and often the case is, if I don't jump, I don't reach the start hold
@@alexandrafoley4470 same...
I wouldn't use the word " inefficient", maybe 'unreliable' ?
Fatigue was not the most common bottle neck for him...
He often made mistakes in the end of a route.
Let Tomoa have his fun, man. Plus it is super entertaining to watch. I hope he will climb like this in Tokyo tbh.
I think it's ridiculous to call it his "fatal flaw". He literally concedes the point that Tomoa is going to be better than most traditionally strong boulderers/lead climbers in the speed climbing portion of the competition due to his naturally dynamic movement. In addition, tomoa is shorter than the average climber and many times dynamic moves save energy compared to what could have been done statically. He may have to completely span out to do the same moves as some other climbers, or have to be on his complete tippy-toes to be able to get the reach necessary for a problem and create insane amounts of tension. To do deadpoint moves while being short is way harder than being tall, in addition, you introduce the risk of reaching too short, or misjudging the distance, even by a little amount because you're focused on staying on that previous hold and weighting differently. This is all overcome by dynamic movement which allows him to climb outside of your normal box of movement and range. People climb differently due to their build and style. To call his style a "fatal flaw" is disappointing and discounts the countless hours of training he did that lead to him climbing this way.
Hey, I'm sorry you feel that way. I don't think I communicated it as well as I could have in the video, but I don't actually think that climbing dynamically is Tomoa's fatal flaw - it's more that he climbs dynamically even in situations when he shouldn't. Every climber does this (if I have to watch Ondra try to knee bar his way through a paddle-dyno-boulder one more time, I might puke); I just chose to make this video because this is really the only weakness I see in Tomoa's game and I thought it would be interested to analyze it a bit deeper. Either way, thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
'fatal flaw' might be a bit of a strong term but it is the reason he isn't as good at sport climbing as others, but similarly why he's so damn good at bouldering. This isn't critising him as a climber, more how his style might have negatives, which every climber has.
He's literally the same height as Megos, but Megos is way more efficient in sport climbing but not as strong at bouldering because of the balance of static and dynamic movement.
@@razzanator06 The fatal flaw isn't the style itself, it's using it where it's not most effective.
"Fatal Flaw" gets clicks, that's why he put it that way. The actual message portrayed in the video though is much less harsh.
Good rebuttal. This video was pretty reaching and poorly written IMO.
I came for the rock climbing an stayed for tomoa’s beauty
Ngl, he’s got more a better shot of a gold than ondra or schubert, like tomoa’s lead ability is still wayy above ondras speed ability
Yeah , Tomoa's probably my #1 choice for gold medal just because of how crazy fast he looked in Hachioji!
yeh in combined he’s just too good of a fit
Powering through routes is fun though. He shouldn't forfeit his style for the sake of a slither of an increased chance at gold, especially considering the fact that this way he stands out professionally, whereas if he tried to do what the video suggests, he'd be in direct competition with Adam Ondra, who is a much different type of climber and not one Tomoa strives to be like
actually if you think about it his style is what will most likely allow him to win gold you have to remember the olympics will have 3 disciplines not just lead climbing. So while adam ondra is good at lead climbing tomoa is good at all 3 disciplines along with the fact the boulder problems will be set dynamically as the route setters said themselves they dont want boring looking problems.
@@omgwateverlol that's assuming that he's able to keep close enough to the top lead climbers. I haven't seen much of competition climbing yet, but what I gather from this video and what little I've seen so far is he'll likely take bouldering and speed will be too tight to really give him any breathing room. That leaves lead as the likely deciding discipline and his bouldering oriented style may not work well enough for him. It's all well and good for people to say that his style makes him noticeable, but if it holds him back from truly excelling in one discipline I say it makes sense for him to train to make the adjustments to strengthen that discipline.
You’re completely right but his style makes him more a fan favourite, which is maybe what he wants, we’ll see once the olympics comes around
For me, Tomoa is the most likely winner of the olimpics. Yes, he is not the favourite to win in the lead section, but he could win in bouldering and speed. I think he shuld stay true to his style and try to win using what has proven effective so far. It will be great watching him climb against lead beasts like Ondra, Megos and Jackob (we all miss you Stefano)
Awesome video! Would love to see more content like this leading into the Olympics.
Thanks! More like this on the way!
true but the thing is he is tomoa and he probably has always climbed like this
momentum also saves energy and slower isometrics movements take more resistance to hold
Not necessarily, especially if there’s a lack of precision to his lead climbing and he has to continually readjust.
Tomoa said in interviews that early on coaches tried to get him to climb "correctly", and it just doesn't work for him.
Very interesting video for me. I've always been an explosive and instinctual climber, but immediately after lockdown, I started climbing with climbers who are more efficiency and endurance-based, and I naturally started climbing that way too. After about a month and a half, I finally realized that this was the reason I wasn't climbing as well, and I was just able to switch to my fast-paced style. However, since I was basically learning how to climb more efficiently for a month, I can now save energy and think in places where I wasn't able to previously, so it definitely made me a better climber.
I think he is doing what he enjoys, and now he jas enough strength and power to do it the way he enjoys, gotta break the mould somehow
Totally fair! Especially in Hachioji where he'd basically secured the gold by the time he got onto the lead wall, there was really no reason for him to not have fun while he was up there
i cant imagine tomoa has not thought about this. Making the change would probably take six months at max. he doesnt want to and there are multiple potential reasons
YT's algorithm got me to your channel thanks to this video, keep it up! One thing that always stuck out to me about Tomoa is his all-or-nothing approach to things, generally. You sorta see this in the clip at 0:35. If he's not confident it'll stick, he just lets go and falls back.
That's a really good point! It kind of seems like he goes for it just so that he can get the 35+ score instead of just a 35. Funnily enough, I have another video planned where I talk about how he's able to pull off some of his crazy gymnastic moves because of how much he believes in himself!
Intresting video, the combined format is a little annoying but it brings the competition closer together. The way I look at it Tomoa has a good chance of getting first in bouldering, top 3 in speed but his place in lead is unsure. If you compare that to Ondra who will have a good chance of first in lead, top 3 in bouldering but his place in speed is unsure. It sounds to both guys will have a good chance of winning the Olympics, the same can probably be said for Megos and Schubert.
That's exactly my thought as well! Another commentor pointed out that there are lead/boulder specialists (Ondra) and boulder/speed specialists (Tomoa), but no lead-speed specialist, so it really opens the competition up.
I think for Ondra to have a chance of winning, he needs first in lead and second in bouldering (or first in bouldering and second in lead), as well as a pretty good speed run. It's so hard to predict, though! Like, if Rishat has a bad day in speed, Tomoa could win it, and that would basically lock him in for gold. Tomoa could also loose to, say, Mikael in the first round, and then the whole competition looks different
The only way Ondra doesn't come dead last in speed is if Megos also makes the final. Schubert isn't great at speed, but his times aren't terrible (low 7s, typically). I expect Jakob can place 5th or 6th in speed on a typical combined final.
The way I see it, the head setter for bouldering is the kingmaker, because it could potentially shut down Ondra. He could win bouldering. Or he could come in 6th. Tomoa probably won't do worse than 2nd. If Jakob is fitter than Adam, maybe he wins lead. I wouldn't bet on it, but it's happened before.
What's going to matter most is how they do on their strong disciplines. The difference between 1st and 2nd is the same as 4th and 8th.
As for Megos, I consider him a long shot because he'll get 8th in speed, and he's not usually super strong on comp boulders. I can't remember the last time he made finals in a bouldering world cup. Kai has a much better shot, IMO.
Good video, actually learned a bit about lead climbing and saving energy myself. Hehe
Thanks
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it
hes enjoying himself up there
Really good channel that deserves more sund
He’s literally second in the olympics rn. Good vid but some facts are exaggerated or inaccurate
You should tell him. I’m sure he’d take it on board.
Tomoa arguably has the best movement on the circuit. This is mumbo jumbo
Loved the video. Keep the content coming. Are you going to detail Nathaniel Coleman, or is he just too far from the podium to be worth the effort?
Thanks! I was thinking I was going to do a blanket 'Team America' video - there's a couple of fun darkhorse candidates in there, but like you said, no serious podium shots. Some really promising young guys that I was to analyze though!
Great video dude 👍
I definitely appreciate the idea of exploring this defining style that Tomoa has and how it might not always make sense, but I have disagree that it puts him at a significant disadvantage. I think the biggest disagreement I have comes from when you said yourself that he goes straight from point A to point B, which is the definition of efficiency. In the clip you showed comparing Megos to Tomoa, Megos arguably did the more strenuous move by needing a comparable level of effort over a longer time to go statically. Being dynamic can drain power reserves but doesn't always equate to meaning that you are running out of endurance. For Tomoa (like you said), these moves are relatively easy for him, so doing the dynamic version is not as draining as it would be for maybe Megos, or Ondra who don't rely on power nearly as much. You also said yourself, he falls just short of the strongest lead climbers, but that means he's pretty much on the level of the BEST lead climbers in the world.
That being said, I don't think that we should totally throw out the idea that the lead wall could end up costing Tomoa the gold. I completely agree that 4th or 5th in a discipline could be a difference-maker and I like that you mention the true caliber of the lead climbers in the Olympics. You also touched on this slightly in your video that Tomoa is just less controlled, not just less dynamic and not always the best route-reader compared to Schubert, Ondra and Megos, I just think that could be more of a difference-maker than his endurance levels as a result of his style.
TLDR: I greatly appreciate the topic of discussion and loved the video quality (loved the clips you pulled from and the breadth of competitions), but from my climbing understanding I have to disagree with one of your arguments.
People in this comments section seem to have a hard time understanding critique
Tomoa is very calculating in his dynamic moves. He can break down every decision and micro-movement in detail. He has some great videos where he did just that.
height also plays a big factor especially on lead climb route sets. I'm the same height as Tomoa, and my tall lanky friend statics a lot of the crux moves in my gym's comp routes, whereas I have to make more dynamic high power moves in comparison to him.
I’m gonna state my one hundred percent honest opinion. Your absolutely right, if this competitor can’t learn to be more static where he needs to be, it’s gonna cost him. Great job pointing this out! This could help make a huge difference! This man is an absolutely astonishing climber! He just needs to be more static and precise. Thankyou for making everyone aware!
What makes you think Tomoa can't make top half of the field in lead? He has multiple lead world cup podiums, and could have won in Villars if he hadn't stepped on his rope.
Don't get me wrong, Adam and Jakob also have excellent chances to win next year, but to describe Tomoa's style of climbing as a "fatal flaw" is just dumb. Especially when there are lead specialists who have won world cups climbing like that. You could just as easily describe Adam's style as a fatal flaw in bouldering, given what it cost him in Munich and Hachioji last year.
Exactly, his style is unique and is what makes him one of the best climbers in the world. He is still a strong contender for gold no matter what
Static strength and dynamic strength are different things. Tamoa may not have the static strength to match Mego’s or Ondra’s approaches while lead climbing. While transitioning his style to match the beta may work out best in the long run, he’d likely see a drop in performance as he does so.
There’s also the chance that Tamoa is climbing optimally for his muscle composition and that he would never reach the level of his current approach if he switched his style to be more static.
I started watching them climb last april 2021. It's fun watching them. I'm fan of Japan Athlete's.🙋🏼♀️
Great content. Really enjoy that you open up this space of discussion. I think tomoas tactic is specialising and going for.the win in bouldering. If he then has a above average performance in speed and mediocre in lead he should be very well positioned to win. The multiplying system is kind of counterintuitive in that sense. If you are 1st in bouldering, 3rd in speed and 8th in lead (1*3*8=24) you are better of than being 3rd (3^3=27) in all disciplines. So in general I guess the idea of not compromising explosiveness and higher chances of good ranks in boulder and speed for static power and more tactical route reading is a good idea. Honestly I don't know how much of a difference in training regime it would make but I thing he is good to go.
Thanks for the comment! I'm really glad that you enjoyed the video.
You're right, the multiplying format makes everything a little bit more complicated. Really, if Tomoa wins bouldering and then comes 3rd in speed, he's all but secured himself a gold medal. If he doesn't win bouldering, though (and on any given day Ondra or Schubert have a chance of beating him), I suddenly think his lead placement could become a lot more important. You're totally right, though - it's probably more worth it for him to focus on what he's good at!
@@ascentionism hey thanks for the answer. You are totally right. There is a lot of pressure on him on winning boulder. Likewise as on adam on winning lead. And on Bassa mawem in speed I guess although I don't know much about this sub-discipline. I would be surprised if the gold medal goes to someone that didn't win a single discipline. A candidate with 2nd, 2nd, 3rd for example seems highly unlikely, or anybody come to your mind? Maybe tomoa? So maybe you're right after all and he should train more lead :D
@@oaxacenio I agree! That would be super surprising, although I could see Tomoa doing it - 2nd in speed, 2nd in bouldering, 3rd/4th in lead. That's really the only scenario, though, and I'm not sure he can get that high in lead.
Honestly, I think there's a lot of pressure on everyone to win boulder! In my opinion any one of Ondra, Megos, and Schubert need to win the bouldering comp to win gold, because they're all going to be in the bottom half of the speed climbing. If any of those guys can nab a 1 in bouldering and a 1 in lead, though, suddenly their speed placement doesn't matter that much at all. Of course, it's super hard to predict, but I think whoever wins bouldering will probably win the gold medal.
@@ascentionism your comment made me thing about another interesting interaction between the disciplines. We have people that have good shots at high rankings in in two disciplines. But it's only boulder-speed (tomoa, mawem) and boulder-lead (megos,Schubert,ondra). There are no athletes with really good lead-speed results. So as you say bouldering does have a special role because it might be the most contested one of those disciplines. Although the holy trinity of lead also gonna be very interesting to watch.
@@oaxacenio That's a really good way to look at it! You're right, bouldering is like the 'in-between' discipline that both sides are pretty good at. I think that's what makes it the most important one.
I cannot wait for the lead competition. It's so fun to get to watch three all-time greats go head to head against each other. Also, I love refering to them as the Holy Trinity!
Great video
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
People are getting way too upset about this in the comments.
This isn't saying Tamoa is a bad climber or even worse than others, just that the dynamic movement in his style doesn't translate as well to sport climbing compared to some other top climbers.
It could be the reason he doesn't win gold. And I mean he has to have some flaw over the 3 disciplines or he'd clean up the gold pretty comfortably.
Analysis isn't a bad thing, guys.
This is a awesome video
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed :)
Tomoa is a highly effective climber which is not the same as a highly efficient climber, versus Ondra being efficient if not always effective. Can see this in a number of more complicated competition boulders where Tomoa uses his dynamism to force himself from one stable point to the next, powering and landing all four points almost simultaneously, whereas Ondra will often choose several well balanced sequences to achieve the same point with greater security and flow.
Only Tomoa knows if he is using too much energy when cutting feet. He is small and light weight, he has a good power to weight ratio. Everyone has different amounts of slow and fast twitch muscle which changes what people can do and what is comfortable for them. Everyone has different limb shape and muscle distribution too and many are even missing ligament in their arms. Each to their own.
What is that flappy noise in the background at 3:59?
He's doing it his own way do
Maybe he counters the whole running out of energy or wasting energy, by being crazy strong
He probably should go more rock climbing I think this teaches you more percussion
I always pictured him as a cellist tbh.
Ba dum tss!
*Hits the wall rhythmically*
I think switching climbing styles isnt just that simple. If he did in fact play more to a slower more deliberated style not only do I think his bouldering would suffer, but it is not said he would make up for it in his lead. If anything I would imagine it could leave him a somewhat mediocre version of meghos or Ondra. With the offside his slower style wouldnt benefit from Ondras longer limbs.
In addition his more dynamic style probably translates better into speed climbing. Hence his better results in that. I dont think we can deny that recently bouldering competitions seem to cater to more dynamic climbing anywyas.
I had some experiences on routes in which I advanced more easily and even avoiding some grabs, when I passed at a higher speed. I'm just citing this as an example, because where it is possible and executable, sometimes I have the impression that I prefer to pass with greater speed, even though I understand the footwork and the betas ... I think Dano even talked about it once. So just reflect.
So if you're into drag racing basically he's like 1/8 mile car instead of 1/4 Mile car
Kakashi (using common sense): Naruto, you are using too much energy. This means that you will deplete your chakra faster than others.
Jiraiya (using knowledge): Naruto, it is ok for you too use more energy than other because you have more chakra than anybody. So you don’t need to worry about controlling your energy, just focus on unleashing the BEAST.
Momentum p= Mass x Velocity
I don’t know anything about rock climbing but it seems that Tomoa is smaller than his other peers. Shorter people may need more dynamic movement and use the momentum to move up.
How do you only have 400 subs
Keep it up dude
Thanks!
dynamic climbing has its own efficiencies that are harder to see for newer climbers or people who just stuck with traditional climbing which is retaining energy by completing faster and even skipping entire holds/moves which preserves arm strength. But this is obviously harder to see as a newer climber because it feels scarier which makes them post rationalize how static climbing is the best but this style of climbing is what allows a 5'6 tomoa narsaki who also weighs less than adam ondra the ability to fly up the wall if he climbed like adam ondra he would be giving up his strengths so that would not make sense. So I have to whole hardheartedly disagree on the premise of the fatal flaw as then you can just as well say Adam ondra has a fatal flaw of not being able to really do dynamic boulder problems as seen on the paddle problem. Styles are born from body types they are not chosen and you cant assume one style of climbing fits all recognizing this is what allows one to be a great climber to fit the tools for the right job. And your point about the gold medal you have to remember the olympics will have 3 disciplines it will not just be lead climbing, it will have lead, boulder and speed so what does not make sense is your point on tomoa losing the gold if anything this situation makes him the most obvious candidate to win gold as adam and megos are both not good at speed while tomoa is good at all 3 along with the boulder problems being set dynamically as route setters dont want boring viewing.
Japanese climbers always impress me. Not sure where it comes from but every one I've seen always seems to have unique tactics for doing a route
Yea but he has different style can t blame him man
Yeh, a style that’s good for bouldering but bad for lead
@@OneDerscoreOneder Sean McColl is a lead specialist and has a similar style. I'm not sure you can categorically state that it's bad for lead.
@@MS-rx8it I Just watched a 2012 lead climbing run from him and I honestly have no idea what you're talking about czcams.com/video/nR54uw32R0M/video.html
he's like... one of the most efficient and technically sound lead climbers I've literally ever seen. I'm not convinced at all.
@@OneDerscoreOneder Sean is on the record saying that, regardless of the difficulty of the route, he only has 30ish moves in the tank before pump kicks in. So his goal is always to get through those moves as quickly as possible using whatever beta seems most expedient at the time. This leads to weird beta sometimes (Kranj '18) and outright errors in others (z-clip sometime last year).
Also, the single word most often used to describe both Sean and Tomoa is "bouncy". But watch them both on slab and tell me again that Tomoa is the less technical climber.
Tall and short climber definitely will have different styles. The distance between holds not gonna change. I understand why he climb differently than ondra, or even alex megos. More often than not shorter people need to rely on dynamic movement, because they cant even reach the holds or stretch out far enough to have proper and secure tension to be able to do the moves statically. To be honest, being tall does make it easier in the climbing world, most of the time. While i watch adam ondra climbed all the hard routes or projects, i will always try to imagine, how will a shorter climber climb this route when they cant even reach or stretch their feet or hands far enough. Hence there are advantages for tall climber, more than disadvantage. The disadvantages wouldnt be much of an issue once they are used to the prpper technique, body positioning and keeping the body close to wall for example.
But i get what you trying to send across though.
idk its pretty hard to call something a fatal flaw when tomoa has flashed a 8b+ boulder problem outside
However Tomoa doesn´t need to be a top level speedclimber. If he does not mess up speed he will be the best non specalitst with his 5.8 time. And we all know that he is the best in bouldering. And he still is a decent leadclimber, who will place at least in the top half of the field.
That's true! I think Tomoa can reasonably get 2nd or 3rd in speed, which would put him in a great position to win. If he has an off day bouldering, though (or Ondra/Schubert/Megos has a decides to go off) and doesn't win the bouldering, coming 4th or 5th on the lead wall could impact his chances of winning the whole thing
He is not the best boulderer
Adreazilo 83 who is then? Look at his bouldering results! This man won the bouldering worldcup by only participating in 4 out of 6 events! And Boulder worldchampionship an Bouldering in Combined Finals.
@@ascentionism NO way that tomoa would only get 2nd or 3rd in speed, he will get 1st as long as he doesn't mess up. Why? Because there won't be any speed climber can make it into final.
@@yuteyang6811 I'm not sure! Rishat's been training with Adam and his lead/bouldering skills look pretty solid. I wouldn't but it past him to make the finals. One of the Mawam brothers could sneak in, too. If neither of them make, it, though, I totally agree - Tomoa's leaving the speed route with a 1 next to his name
Who is Aleex Meegos
I would argue that it's not worth it for Tomoa to change his style to something non-characteristic or conservatory at the cost of not feeling he owns it. Screw that. I'd rather be unique and be number 2-3-4 rather than be just another sheep doing the correct thing in the best way and be number 1. That's why he's a fan favorite. It's not just about being number 1, it's about how you get to be number 1 and what you stand for when you get there and along the way.
Best *male* comp climber. Janja Garnbret would be the best comp climber today. No one else has won every single boulder world cup in a season.
Well, the male problems and routes are all harder than the female ones so Tomoa is still the best.
Don't get me wrong, Janja is a fucking beast and absolutely dominated the womens last year but, she's got nothing on any of the men competing.
@@benwhiley9680 Tomoa being stronger than Janja in raw terms doesn't make him a 'better' comp climber, it just makes him a stronger climber, which isn't what I said. Comp climbing (as opposed to pushing the sport outdoors) is about winning medals and Janja is better in the sense that she is a more successful and dominant comp climber. The routes are designed to the natural physiology of men and women and are of equal difficulty in relative terms.
@@annie797 Not really, the women's problems and routes are pretty casual for these men.
The problems and routes of men vs women are not of equal difficulty at all. All the men would stroll up all of the women's problems and routes; only a few women would be able to complete even one of any of the men's.
If you're talking about physical sports, or anything physical, men just have an unassailable biological advantage.
This is why literally every men's World Record in every physical sport ever is "better" than the women's.
Again, Janja is an absolutely awe inspiring athlete that is so far beyond the rest of the field she competes against that it actually seems unfair. She is, by far, the best female climber.
But she's nowhere near the best climber, not even close.
-
You could say she is the most successful comp climber though, that would be fine.
@@benwhiley9680 if you don't understand the concept of 'relative', there's no point in engaging further. Have a nice day.
@@benwhiley9680 Your comment about female problems being easy for men is 100% conjecture.
I’ve no clue why this came up on my recommended but climbing is cool I guess
You make it sound like a technique issue but pacing is also a physical issue. A relatively more relaxed pace with smaller moves is efficient when you have the specific fitness that goes with it, and I'm sure tomoa tried different pacings during training and stuck with the one which felt less pumpy...for the explosive boulderer he is. Maybe trainers should have insisted in him giving slightly slower pace a real chance
It’s ok everyone’s got their style. It’s ok to mix and match instead of doing only ballet
another reason he does this is because he’s not as lengthy like the other dudes, they’re like spiders and so he has to be more dynamic
Tamoa doesnt get very much mpg but he has some horsepower
I think hes the world best climber.
Tomoa has power that’s his strength so he uses. Others’ strength are else where such as flexibility, grip, lightness or stamina etc. you won’t go on complaining about another person’s flexible would you if that is their strength and they uses it?
Hey thanks for the comment! I guess my point is that he uses it even in situations where it's not beneficial to him. Ondra's strength is his technique, but he sometimes gets overly-technical, tries to outsmart the route readers, and falls (Insbruck 2018 lead semis, Munich M4, Hachioji lead qualifications).
I think the difference is that stamina can be depleted whereas flexibility couldn't be
@@youtubespectator669 well utilizing flexibility in climbing will also usually involve maintaining some form of tension which will deplete stamina. Akiyo Noguchi is probably a good example of a flexible climber but because of it sometimes ends up adding extra moves to get to a certain point where as power climbers like Miho or Janja would get to the same point in less.
Let him be free💛😊
👏👏👏👏👏
Lead: Ondra
Boulder: Tomoa
Speed: Mawem
You repeated the same statement 3 times in this video.
He is japanese, and he has plot armor lmao
I know im 3 years late to this. But janja is the best competition climber in the world, its not even close
Frankly speaking Tomoa has much more stamina needed to complete the climb and given his crazy moves he is incredible... Even I think you are a traditionalist yourself to judge him on his raw strength..
What is this script... 'his inability to climb accurately.' Dude, get selected to the olympics, and then maybe consider doing such comments. Who do you think you are?
Confused about the point of the video.
It's were a person who hasn't won a Combined World title critisices someone who has. Bonkers
@@gary5926 It felt more like a clickbait video to me
Hmm.. Maybe you should go to Japan and give him some pointers. 🤔
Wheres your video abour Adam? :(
It got removed because of copyright claims :( I'm working on re-uploading it though!
With shockingly little training??? Umm have you seen his training? 🤣
Japan has the best climbing coaches in the world. If this was his “fatal flaw”, he would not be climbing like that.
11
Well u are comparing him with guys that have longer arms .They can just grab and reach everything easier .
Haters gonna hate
All this beautiful documentary work and you had to trash it with that basic ass royalty free music
The thing you didnt consider is that tomoa is well aware that he could do things more efficiently but chooses not to and climbs for style instead of the Gold.
Yes. Because this is efficient towards his style. I think the narrator is steering too much to what is 'ideal' lead climbing style.
Imagine a climbing competition where it's about style 😳 I would love that
The person that takes this to the next level is Kai Harada, too
why am i here i have never rock climes
I think you should worry about making yourself better at what you do. Instead of hating on people who arnt afraid to push themselves to be innovators.
David Heckman
So legitimate criticism is invalid cause reasons?
That’s incredibly stupid
Now perhaps the narrator is wrong or perhaps he is right but he is attempting to give constructive criticism regardless
Hey man, I'm sorry you feel like that. I really don't hate Tomoa at all - he's an incredible athlete, he's revolutionized the sport, and I fully believe he's got the best chance at winning gold. I was just trying to make a video to breakdown what I perceived to be some of his weaknesses in case anyone else was interested.
The reason is: he is japanese. Do it like an anime character did or you are doing it wrong.
what is up wwith those botched pronounciations
Asians
Can’t watch because of the insufferable background music! :(
Hater
I found the voice annoying, also the rhythm, the inflections. Have you considered hiring a professional to narrate your videos, that'd make a huge difference!
My dude I get paid like $3 per hour to make these
@@ascentionism lol! the market is a beast!
Omg your mic quality is so poor and it’s hard to discern what you’re saying over the music!! Thumbs down!!!