@cutlerylover found out something cool today that I thought you might find interesting. I was sharpening up some knives and decided to see what would happen if I used car wax on the blade when I was done. It made the knives cut through paper way cleaner than if they were straight off the sharpener. I just used liquid carnauba car wax. Maybe you can try it sometime and let us know about your results. Would NOT recommended if you plan to use the knife for cutting food as some car waxes are harmful if swallowed.
I have a bunch of Opinel knives, original ones and custom ones with Sambar stag roll handles that I made. I would remove the Vibrolok ring collar, and the pin holding the blade in (takes a little work involving filing or grinding down the end of the pin with the smaller head on it), and take it all apart... I use a pair of c-clip pliers to remove the locking ring, and also used for re-installing it. After removing the surface rust, and getting it as smooth as you want, I would just use gun bluing (like Brownell's Oxpho-blue or the Dicropan creme formula, I often use both) on the blade to give it the correct patina... then use Ballistol to keep it rust-free... good for the wood handle and friction points too !
• Burnishing the carbon blade in stake is a good idea. For Opinel No. 9, you will need 400-500 milliliters (depending on the capacity). (1) Microwave cola, get rid of cola bubbles (they leave an uneven trail, but some like it). (2) Wipe the blade with alcohol, or degrease with something else. (You can pre-prepare the blade. For example, polish it or, conversely, walk with sandpaper. This is a matter of taste). (3) Immerse the blade completely for 10 minutes in the hot cola. (4) Take out and wipe the blade with a clean disposable paper towel. At this time, heat the cola in the microwave for 30 seconds. (5) Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you like the result. But if less than three times, the effect is weakly visible. (6) wipe the blade with any oil or alcohol when finished - stop the reaction. The edge is eaten away a little, but is easily restored when editing on musat or the simplest X-stones. (+) Some people recommend that you then place the knife in an oven at 150°-190°C for 30 minutes. At this stage, I have no personal experience, I will not say anything. • Opinel wooden handle. Personal experience, before oxidizing the blade: (1) folded the knife, removed the ring, put it in a plastic bag; (2) completely filled the knife handle with Ballistol universal oil from all sides, rolled up the first bag and put it in the second plastic bag; (3) put it all on a ~80°C radiator; (4) during the day he turned without patterns, most of the time the knife was held with the pin down, and at the end he put it horizontally for 3 hours with the blade down. Ballistol is completely absorbed; (5) repeated point 4 on the second day. As a result, the knife is dry; (6) Wrap the folded knife in food foil and place it in an oven heated to 150°C for 30 minutes. (=) As a result, the handle of the knife is pleasantly darkened; when wet, the blade does not bite and opens and closes easily. In citric acid: czcams.com/video/XmUSbLGZA6Y/video.html
I normally use 1000 grit sandpaper but I didn't know about the rust eraser I will definitely try it out on my moms knife. She keeps forgetting to dry it properly and I'm constantly going there to fix it because its 150 years old and I want to inherit it eventually
I think a knife or tool looks cool when rust is removed and the pitting is left but cleaned up. Rust removal is very satisfying. A wire wheel or sand blaster works great too, takes more material off but you gotta get all the rust off or it'll keep coming back.
Check out Por-15 Rust Remover. Its what professionals use to remove rust off of old guns for restoration. You just soak it and rinse it off and rust is all gone without having to damage with sanding.
Those rust erasers are great. I also use #0000 steel wool for rust. I have two Spyderco PM2's, a 52100 and a Maxamet, which get a little rust on from time to time. The steel wool and rust eraser makes short work of it and I'll wipe it down with a Tuf-cloth.
I restore old rusty tools and knives for pain management. One of the tools is a fiber wheel on a bench grinder it works very well at removing rust on carbon steel blades. It leaves blades nice and shiny but somewhat streaked to get a nice even appearance I a small Harbor Fright polishing mop on my drill press. I apply a small amount of Flitz polish on the blade to get an even bright shiny finish. The mop and Flitz do an outstanding on Swiss Army Knife scales.
I always just blue my Opinels, and love the rust erasers. How you been doing old friend? Still plugging along down here in Atlanta. Run by if you cone to Blade and we will chop up some more stuff!
Yeah I got a rust eraser based off one of your vids, and it took a pair of fish pliers I had that looked like an archeological discovery to fully workable after the eraser and some oil.
You should look into dedeco sunburst radial bristle 2 inch discs 6 ply sanders. They go up to 1 micron. It leaves as much metal as possible while removing any of that rust. Any rust left will eat the metal like a cancer. You gotta remove all of it or its gonna keep rusting!
If you can get the blade off you can boil the rusted parts in water and it converts the rust so it can be easily worked. Used in firearm restoration for 100 years and it works without damaging the metal.
I probably wouldn't recommend this method for knives while it works well, it could end up ruining the temper on the hardened knife steel. Phosphoric acid would be a good alternative.
He knows what he is doing. Blades are in our blood. They also say a dull knife will cut you before a sharp. Dull: 0 Sharp: 40+ I’m sloppy. 🤷🏽♂️ Take care.✌🏽
You should at least be wearing cut resistant gloves, and a full-face helmet wouldn't be a bad idea along with a jockstrap and cup! One can never be too safe ! 👍✌
When I got my lodge it had plastic on the sides and bottoms but not the ends I assume do you just use the ends of the lodge I just bought it off your link less then a month ago along with flitz stuff as well
The next time you buy an Opinel for Christine get her an Inox instead of a Carbone. Beyond that you needed a drop of WD-40 on the paper. I use scotch type pads 4 in a pack from Dollar General 4x 6 that I reduce to smaller squares they don't scratch but the added oil is needed to cut the rust. The combo is faster than sandpaper even in a heavier grit.
you might be better off using a flat surface to lay your blade on so it doesnt flex at all and will be super safe with the edge pointing to the surface. a thick cutting board would do the trick
Ceramic tile samples get refreshed, probably every year. The sample books (or cards) contain numerous sizes and thicknesses, etc.. They get thrown out when the palette changes, or styles, finishes, patterns, etc. change. The beauty of them is that there's usually at least one side that is pretty much dead-flat. And the unglazed back-side is usually a near-flat rectangle of ceramic, which can be used as a sharpening or polishing stone, somewhere in the mix, depending on the finish. For free.
After extensive watching and research, turns out that EvapoRust would knock this out the park. Take it apart, soak blade in EvapoRust. Its reusable , you can filter it, if it quits working you can pour it down a drain. It will not eat or damage live steel. Its a chleating agent. Then polish. Great stuff.
Heck I just thought, pour the EvapoRust in a glass tall enough to cover the metal, put plastic wrap over it to keep EvapoRust from evaporating😆go from there.
I would have soaked it in Evo-Rust to convert the red rust to the more stable black rust and then used a wire brush to get the black rust out of the pits. Then oil
• Воронение Carbon клинка в коле хорошее решение. Для Opinel №9 понадобится 400-500 миллилитров (в зависимости от ёмкости). (1) Нагреваете в микроволновой печи колу, избавляетесь от пузырьков из колы (они оставляют неравномерной след, но некоторым нравиться). (2) Протираете лезвие спиртом, или обезжириваете ещё чем-то. (Можно предварительно подготовить лезвие. Например, отполировать его или, наоборот, пройтись наждачной бумагой. Это дело вкуса). (3) Полностью опускаете лезвие на 10 минут в горячую колу. (4) Достаёте и протираете лезвие чистой одноразовой бумажной салфеткой. В это время греете колу в микроволновке 30 секунд. (5) Повторяете пункт 4 и 5 до тех пор пока Вам не понравится результат. Но если менее трех раз - эффект видно слабо. (6) по окончании протереть лезвие любым маслом или спиртом - остановить реакцию. Кромка немного съедается, но легко восстанавливается при правке на мусате или самых простых Х-камнях. (+) некоторые рекомендуют после этого поместить нож в духовую печь с 150°-190°C на 30 минут. На данном этапе личного опыта нет, ничего не скажу. • Деревянная ручка Opinel. Личный опыт, перед окислением лезвия: (1) сложил нож, снят кольцо, поместил в пластиковый пакет; (2) полность со всех сторон залил ручку ножа универсальным маслом Ballistol, первый пакет свернул и положил во второй пластиковый пакет; (3) поместил это всё на радиатор отопления ~80°C; (4) в течении суток поворачивал без закономерностей, большую часть времени нож провел штифтом вниз, в в конце положил часа на 3 горизонтально лезвием вниз. Ballistol полностью впитался; (5) повторил пункт 4 на вторые сутки. В итоге - нож сухой; (6) сложенный нож завернул в пищевую фольгу и поместил в нагретую до 150°C духовную печь на 30 минут. (=) Как итог, ручка ножа приятно потемнела, при намокании лезвие не закусывает и легко открывается-закрывается. В лимонной кислоте: czcams.com/video/XmUSbLGZA6Y/video.html
Quick question. When you demonstrate how much oil to apply onto the knife and how to spread it with a rag I can see you donut pretty confidently. But how and where did you learn about the needed amount and how to apply it? I don’t doubt how you did it works great, just interested whether there is a proper way established by someone.
Aren’t you crisscrossing with the grain of the knife blade by actuating the eraser back-and-forth length wise instead of edgewise? I would assume this method for removing rust is probably going to leave some scratch marks along the face of the blade that will be visible after polishing. Is this not correct?
I've never owned an Opinel and after seeing this vid I think I would opt for a stainless blade if I bought one. That is some bad pitting. BUT I don't know what it was last used to cut or what was done before it was put away.
Screw carbon steel knifes! Got the same Opinel, rusted almost like this in one night. Switching to stainless Mora knife and no such pain like with this. No sanding, polishing, wasting time and its always shiny. Sharp as a shaving blade. Sharper than carbon Opinel.
OK… Not only are you crossing the grain with the rubber eraser but now you’re using 100 grit sandpaper…? Why don’t you just get a flap sanding wheel on a grinder and take it all down at once? It would probably match up better with the grain. Believe it or not they make this stuff called Coca-Cola and it seems to work pretty well for removing this kind of crap without adding all these nifty little scratches you’re going to make on your ladies knife. This is like watching a train wreck… I’m not sure if I should cover my eyes to look at the grand reveal or start shouting and warning you every 30 seconds. Don’t forget to cut away from yourself with the knife….you might cut yourself.
@@blindmelonlemonjello Actually it was a little humidity but over the course of about a year so it started small and grew from there as rust does lol...but its all good now :)
@@cutlerylover that's a trip. Possibly you guys should look into some sort of moisture absorber device for your equipment storage ? Or those packets that absorbs water.
@@blindmelonlemonjello Im not concerned about it we kept one container with some camp gear in a location that had some moisture but wont do it again thats all, there were several knives in there only this one has any rust since its cabnon steel
Do you know what today's date 2024 and it is the 6th of the first 2024 and it's the first proper knife I've seen you show it is a classic first time I've seen this video anyway if you want a good knife an Iona mall I'm not saying they're all good cost me a lot of money put my best knives are two of them one of them is an open l number 8 and the other one is a Mora robust I paid about 20 3 English pounds they was expensive by being the best I've had both of them over 10 years I wonder if it's why they call them robust anyway in your dollar money at today's date 2024 they will probably cost you about $29 dollars
LOL my opinel is rusted, do I want to spend a hour of removing it and it still looks auwfull or do I buy a new one for 10 bucks, yeah im going to buy a new one
@cutlerylover found out something cool today that I thought you might find interesting. I was sharpening up some knives and decided to see what would happen if I used car wax on the blade when I was done. It made the knives cut through paper way cleaner than if they were straight off the sharpener. I just used liquid carnauba car wax. Maybe you can try it sometime and let us know about your results. Would NOT recommended if you plan to use the knife for cutting food as some car waxes are harmful if swallowed.
I have a bunch of Opinel knives, original ones and custom ones with Sambar stag roll handles that I made.
I would remove the Vibrolok ring collar, and the pin holding the blade in (takes a little work involving filing or grinding down the end of the pin with the smaller head on it), and take it all apart... I use a pair of c-clip pliers to remove the locking ring, and also used for re-installing it.
After removing the surface rust, and getting it as smooth as you want, I would just use gun bluing (like Brownell's Oxpho-blue or the Dicropan creme formula, I often use both) on the blade to give it the correct patina... then use Ballistol to keep it rust-free... good for the wood handle and friction points too !
• Burnishing the carbon blade in stake is a good idea. For Opinel No. 9, you will need 400-500 milliliters (depending on the capacity).
(1) Microwave cola, get rid of cola bubbles (they leave an uneven trail, but some like it).
(2) Wipe the blade with alcohol, or degrease with something else. (You can pre-prepare the blade. For example, polish it or, conversely, walk with sandpaper. This is a matter of taste).
(3) Immerse the blade completely for 10 minutes in the hot cola.
(4) Take out and wipe the blade with a clean disposable paper towel. At this time, heat the cola in the microwave for 30 seconds.
(5) Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you like the result. But if less than three times, the effect is weakly visible.
(6) wipe the blade with any oil or alcohol when finished - stop the reaction. The edge is eaten away a little, but is easily restored when editing on musat or the simplest X-stones.
(+) Some people recommend that you then place the knife in an oven at 150°-190°C for 30 minutes. At this stage, I have no personal experience, I will not say anything.
• Opinel wooden handle. Personal experience, before oxidizing the blade:
(1) folded the knife, removed the ring, put it in a plastic bag;
(2) completely filled the knife handle with Ballistol universal oil from all sides, rolled up the first bag and put it in the second plastic bag;
(3) put it all on a ~80°C radiator;
(4) during the day he turned without patterns, most of the time the knife was held with the pin down, and at the end he put it horizontally for 3 hours with the blade down. Ballistol is completely absorbed;
(5) repeated point 4 on the second day. As a result, the knife is dry;
(6) Wrap the folded knife in food foil and place it in an oven heated to 150°C for 30 minutes.
(=) As a result, the handle of the knife is pleasantly darkened; when wet, the blade does not bite and opens and closes easily.
In citric acid:
czcams.com/video/XmUSbLGZA6Y/video.html
I normally use 1000 grit sandpaper but I didn't know about the rust eraser I will definitely try it out on my moms knife. She keeps forgetting to dry it properly and I'm constantly going there to fix it because its 150 years old and I want to inherit it eventually
Lol inherit it now. Buy her another knife she isnt taking care of it
Soaking in Evaporust would be a good solution for knives like slip joints where rust may be inaccessible. Flitz is good stuff.
Try using metal sand paper instead of wood sand paper. Work your way trough 320, 400, 600, 1000 grit and finer if you wish.
Great content, its entertaining, satisfying, and helpful. Keep up the great content. And thx for getting me into knives :)
Nice video production.
try some gun cleaning solvents and such, they work well with stiff brushes. a good soak in white vinegar works too
I think a knife or tool looks cool when rust is removed and the pitting is left but cleaned up. Rust removal is very satisfying. A wire wheel or sand blaster works great too, takes more material off but you gotta get all the rust off or it'll keep coming back.
Check out Por-15 Rust Remover. Its what professionals use to remove rust off of old guns for restoration. You just soak it and rinse it off and rust is all gone without having to damage with sanding.
Those rust erasers are great. I also use #0000 steel wool for rust. I have two Spyderco PM2's, a 52100 and a Maxamet, which get a little rust on from time to time. The steel wool and rust eraser makes short work of it and I'll wipe it down with a Tuf-cloth.
I restore old rusty tools and knives for pain management. One of the tools is a fiber wheel on a bench grinder it works very well at removing rust on carbon steel blades. It leaves blades nice and shiny but somewhat streaked to get a nice even appearance I a small Harbor Fright polishing mop on my drill press. I apply a small amount of Flitz polish on the blade to get an even bright shiny finish. The mop and Flitz do an outstanding on Swiss Army Knife scales.
I always just blue my Opinels, and love the rust erasers. How you been doing old friend? Still plugging along down here in Atlanta. Run by if you cone to Blade and we will chop up some more stuff!
Yeah I got a rust eraser based off one of your vids, and it took a pair of fish pliers I had that looked like an archeological discovery to fully workable after the eraser and some oil.
Those opinel knives are cool
Really cheap and affordable too! They last forever
Wet n dry paper with vinegar works better than sandpaper👍
Flitz has been my go to for a long time...awesome product
You should look into dedeco sunburst radial bristle 2 inch discs 6 ply sanders. They go up to 1 micron. It leaves as much metal as possible while removing any of that rust. Any rust left will eat the metal like a cancer. You gotta remove all of it or its gonna keep rusting!
If you can get the blade off you can boil the rusted parts in water and it converts the rust so it can be easily worked. Used in firearm restoration for 100 years and it works without damaging the metal.
I probably wouldn't recommend this method for knives while it works well, it could end up ruining the temper on the hardened knife steel. Phosphoric acid would be a good alternative.
SOS pads work great also.
Hey, don't cut towards yourself, it's unsafe.
He knows what he is doing. Blades are in our blood.
They also say a dull knife will cut you before a sharp.
Dull: 0 Sharp: 40+
I’m sloppy. 🤷🏽♂️
Take care.✌🏽
@@lifespanofafry1534 whoosh 🤦♂️
@@lifespanofafry1534 2:38
@@lifespanofafry1534 tell me you didn’t watch all of the video without telling me you didn’t watch all of the video lmao
Is there no real way to get rid of the pitting?
“Let’s get into it” continues to talk for 5 more minutes…
You should at least be wearing cut resistant gloves, and a full-face helmet wouldn't be a bad idea along with a jockstrap and cup! One can never be too safe ! 👍✌
I use a multitude of methods to remove rust: Flitz, a paste made from a mix of baking soda and water, my Dremel polishing wheels, and sand paper.
I still wonder if you got the Opinel I sent to you many many years ago.
I probably do Opinels arent a knife I trade at all since they are so affordable...
When I got my lodge it had plastic on the sides and bottoms but not the ends I assume do you just use the ends of the lodge I just bought it off your link less then a month ago along with flitz stuff as well
i stuck my opinel in a lemon the first day i got it and ever since it’s had a nice blueing patina and hasn’t rusted
Soaked a blade in a damp paper towel with vinegar. Worked amazing as well
The next time you buy an Opinel for Christine get her an Inox instead of a Carbone. Beyond that you needed a drop of WD-40 on the paper. I use scotch type pads 4 in a pack from Dollar General 4x 6 that I reduce to smaller squares they don't scratch but the added oil is needed to cut the rust. The combo is faster than sandpaper even in a heavier grit.
you might be better off using a flat surface to lay your blade on so it doesnt flex at all and will be super safe with the edge pointing to the surface. a thick cutting board would do the trick
Ceramic tile samples get refreshed, probably every year. The sample books (or cards) contain numerous sizes and thicknesses, etc.. They get thrown out when the palette changes, or styles, finishes, patterns, etc. change. The beauty of them is that there's usually at least one side that is pretty much dead-flat. And the unglazed back-side is usually a near-flat rectangle of ceramic, which can be used as a sharpening or polishing stone, somewhere in the mix, depending on the finish. For free.
After extensive watching and research, turns out that EvapoRust would knock this out the park. Take it apart, soak blade in EvapoRust. Its reusable , you can filter it, if it quits working you can pour it down a drain. It will not eat or damage live steel. Its a chleating agent. Then polish. Great stuff.
use a scotch bright 2x60 belt
I think that it looks absolutely beautiful with that pitting
I was thinking the same thing. Cooler than a new one
the pitting is actually kind of good, helps new coats of oil sit on the blade longer
Heck I just thought, pour the EvapoRust in a glass tall enough to cover the metal, put plastic wrap over it to keep EvapoRust from evaporating😆go from there.
Sand in your rubber?
That pitting is quite satisfying in a strange way. Makes it look hammer forged, crude and archaic.
I USE OLIVE OIL TO DO THAT JOB, FOR YEARS AND VERY RELIABLE AND ALWAYS HAVE THE ABILITY TO SLICE OR CUT FOOD.
I use food grade Mineral Oil on all my knives. The Mineral Oil is food safe and you can use it all over the knife.
CLR is a good non-abrasive surface rust remover.
I would have soaked it in Evo-Rust to convert the red rust to the more stable black rust and then used a wire brush to get the black rust out of the pits. Then oil
Is the video only in 360p? I tried reloading and waiting a while but still only low resolution. Need some high quality Jeff.
Where can I find a rust eraser?
Moment you cut that plate, my brain was totally hurt and spazzing out, didn't realize it was a paper plate. lol
Same
lmao :)
Wow looks alot better!
Dremel with wire and polishing wheels.
Hopps gun cleaner works good also.
Great job 👍
• Воронение Carbon клинка в коле хорошее решение. Для Opinel №9 понадобится 400-500 миллилитров (в зависимости от ёмкости).
(1) Нагреваете в микроволновой печи колу, избавляетесь от пузырьков из колы (они оставляют неравномерной след, но некоторым нравиться).
(2) Протираете лезвие спиртом, или обезжириваете ещё чем-то. (Можно предварительно подготовить лезвие. Например, отполировать его или, наоборот, пройтись наждачной бумагой. Это дело вкуса).
(3) Полностью опускаете лезвие на 10 минут в горячую колу.
(4) Достаёте и протираете лезвие чистой одноразовой бумажной салфеткой. В это время греете колу в микроволновке 30 секунд.
(5) Повторяете пункт 4 и 5 до тех пор пока Вам не понравится результат. Но если менее трех раз - эффект видно слабо.
(6) по окончании протереть лезвие любым маслом или спиртом - остановить реакцию. Кромка немного съедается, но легко восстанавливается при правке на мусате или самых простых Х-камнях.
(+) некоторые рекомендуют после этого поместить нож в духовую печь с 150°-190°C на 30 минут. На данном этапе личного опыта нет, ничего не скажу.
• Деревянная ручка Opinel. Личный опыт, перед окислением лезвия:
(1) сложил нож, снят кольцо, поместил в пластиковый пакет;
(2) полность со всех сторон залил ручку ножа универсальным маслом Ballistol, первый пакет свернул и положил во второй пластиковый пакет;
(3) поместил это всё на радиатор отопления ~80°C;
(4) в течении суток поворачивал без закономерностей, большую часть времени нож провел штифтом вниз, в в конце положил часа на 3 горизонтально лезвием вниз. Ballistol полностью впитался;
(5) повторил пункт 4 на вторые сутки. В итоге - нож сухой;
(6) сложенный нож завернул в пищевую фольгу и поместил в нагретую до 150°C духовную печь на 30 минут.
(=) Как итог, ручка ножа приятно потемнела, при намокании лезвие не закусывает и легко открывается-закрывается.
В лимонной кислоте:
czcams.com/video/XmUSbLGZA6Y/video.html
Why not use a chemical agent like naval jelly?
Quick question. When you demonstrate how much oil to apply onto the knife and how to spread it with a rag I can see you donut pretty confidently. But how and where did you learn about the needed amount and how to apply it? I don’t doubt how you did it works great, just interested whether there is a proper way established by someone.
A good trick is to lay the blade down on an old junk mouse pad. Flipped over, the back grippy side will hold onto what you're sanding pretty well.
Very good 👏🏽
Opinel knives are good, I have a few
Try citric acid with warm water, soak the blade only and several hours later should get all rust removed.
patina always adds character imo
Aren’t you crisscrossing with the grain of the knife blade by actuating the eraser back-and-forth length wise instead of edgewise? I would assume this method for removing rust is probably going to leave some scratch marks along the face of the blade that will be visible after polishing. Is this not correct?
The few people who disliked this are obviously rust lovers.
I've never owned an Opinel and after seeing this vid I think I would opt for a stainless blade if I bought one. That is some bad pitting. BUT I don't know what it was last used to cut or what was done before it was put away.
The pains of high carbon steel.
Cleaning and oiling before storage prevents it.
0000 steel wool is great
Screw carbon steel knifes!
Got the same Opinel, rusted almost like this in one night.
Switching to stainless Mora knife and no such pain like with this.
No sanding, polishing, wasting time and its always shiny. Sharp as a shaving blade. Sharper than carbon Opinel.
Super ! Like👍👍👍👍
So sad one of the best camping knives
Gotta get my self an eraser block and some polishing paste then
I saved a ww2 quartermaster knife with Naveljelly and mothers I'll try this next time
Per the cube pillow ad, you are totally excited?. . .I am so excited my navel is quivering!
4:10 noooooooooo👂
I would have used a whetstone to get that pitting worn away.
hey! don't cut towards yourself! lol 🤣
Per Flitz customer service they said 0000 steel wool or non metallic abrasive pad and FLITZ will remove this...IDK?😂
Or just polish it again once its totally cleaned up.
OK… Not only are you crossing the grain with the rubber eraser but now you’re using 100 grit sandpaper…?
Why don’t you just get a flap sanding wheel on a grinder and take it all down at once? It would probably match up better with the grain.
Believe it or not they make this stuff called Coca-Cola and it seems to work pretty well for removing this kind of crap without adding all these nifty little scratches you’re going to make on your ladies knife.
This is like watching a train wreck… I’m not sure if I should cover my eyes to look at the grand reveal or start shouting and warning you every 30 seconds.
Don’t forget to cut away from yourself with the knife….you might cut yourself.
Brother how did that even happen?
humidity in storage
@@cutlerylover damn that's alot of humidity. How long would you say that took?
@@blindmelonlemonjello Actually it was a little humidity but over the course of about a year so it started small and grew from there as rust does lol...but its all good now :)
@@cutlerylover that's a trip. Possibly you guys should look into some sort of moisture absorber device for your equipment storage ? Or those packets that absorbs water.
@@blindmelonlemonjello Im not concerned about it we kept one container with some camp gear in a location that had some moisture but wont do it again thats all, there were several knives in there only this one has any rust since its cabnon steel
Do you know what today's date 2024 and it is the 6th of the first 2024 and it's the first proper knife I've seen you show it is a classic first time I've seen this video anyway if you want a good knife an Iona mall I'm not saying they're all good cost me a lot of money put my best knives are two of them one of them is an open l number 8 and the other one is a Mora robust I paid about 20 3 English pounds they was expensive by being the best I've had both of them over 10 years I wonder if it's why they call them robust anyway in your dollar money at today's date 2024 they will probably cost you about $29 dollars
hey im restoring the same knife hahaha
LOL my opinel is rusted, do I want to spend a hour of removing it and it still looks auwfull or do I buy a new one for 10 bucks, yeah im going to buy a new one
Its funny how this knife isn't seen as scary but one with a "tactical" look is.
That poor little knife!
🐁
Noice
I wanted a knife but my parents didn’t let me try next year!
Wtf 😂
A fatter hand I have never seen. Love Opinel and great info thank you!