My biggest realization for figs is the reduction of watering. When first planting, a good watering is fine, but afterward figs almost never need watering. Remember, most come from the middle east, they thrive in hot dry climates. Especially when harvesting. A good rain makes for soggy watery figs. A dry period gives thick, syrupy sweet figs.
I believe the origin of figs are Mediterranean regions, and they prefer to grow in limestone-rich soil. While it's very dry in the Mediterranean summers, it's very wet in the winters. The heavy rainfall in the winter actually store in the limestone rich soil, and the aggressive feeder roots weave inside the limestone pockets, which stay damp all summer. So, while it doesn't rain all summer, the roots themselves are so extensive that they can survive siphoning moisture from the damp rocks below. While it's true they can go a long time in their native conditions without water, if you're trying to grow them in a hot, arid region in sand, they'll need irrigation since sandy soil slack the moisture-rich rock pockets. Here in NC, I never have to water them once they establish because we get so much rain. However, if you're growing in sandy soil in arid regions of the Southwest, they may need to be on drip. Figs actually don't handle drought well, in my experience. If your containers dry out, they sag and look horrible almost instantly, and if it dries out too much, the leaves become brittle and get destroyed. I think citrus are far more drought tolerant than figs. It's just when planted in-ground in that limestone rich soil, their crazy aggressive roots are incredible at finding moisture, so they can expertly seek out moisture in the proper conditions, even in the Middle East. But you need that soil type.
It's like the difference between a Georgia peach and a Cali peach. Ours are more syrupy, winey and wonderful, and drier than the irrigated left coast peaches.
Short version: Keep them on a high spot so the roots don't drown and the trunk doesn't rot, and give them solid dose of balanced fertilizer enhanced by plenty of organic matter at planting time. I often hear the bad advice(even from nurseries) not to fertilize trees at transplant or in their first year: based on some speculation that the top growth is at the expense of root growth, which is total nonsense from a botanical and orchard perspective. Now if you have ground that is already at the rich end then it is pretty harmless advice, but for many others the result is stunted trees. There is a chance at the extreme end if continuously side dressing every couple weeks with high N, to get very soft rapid growth into fall and end up with some freeze damage, but this is not an issue with a modest dose of nutrients in the spring. Personally, [I also have sandy loam] transplanted trees on my land will just die of malnutrition if not given a boost at transplant. They don't need too much in later years because the light soil lets the roots go wide and deep, substituting quantity of soil for quality but those first two years need some grow juice.
Canadian Permaculture Legacy seems to know a lot about building healthy soil microbiology. Mulch thick via Back to Eden method to restore the fungus and bacteria which actually release the nutrients bound up in the soil. Also "never bare soil" because mother nature would plant something there, and nematodes etc feed on all the root exudates
You sound like you know your stuff. I wish I had seen Millennial's fruit tree planting videos before I had planted my own {Granny Smith Apple, Montgomery Cherry, 2 Italian Plums}. I planted them last year and regretfully followed the 'no fertilizing' instructions that came included along with my trees. Now I'm wondering if I did the right thing because those trees are alive but not impressively vigorous 🤔.
as long as you fertillize Early spring every yr it wont affect texture of fruit. If they are forming buds early spring is still ok, but not after they beging to swell. Too much water before harvest can make the figs squishy. I also learned too much Nitrogen can do the same to tomatoes and they become mealy and soft.
@@ELBlDu The ratio of nutrients is important. Tomatoes are actually extremely heavy feeders but they mature plants need about 2-3x more potassium than nitrogen. Basically the problem isn't usually high nitrogen but low potassium. Setting aside extremes. (1:1:1 NPK is good in the pot before transplanting.) Also moderately high phosphate is good for a seedling starter, but moderate to low is sufficient after transplant 1:1:2-1:1:3 (High P like 1:3:3 won't hurt a mature plant but it's just wasteful at that stage). Apples also have a strong potassium and calcium demand when it comes to fruit qualities.
@@mytech6779 I bought tomato tone but I has an NPK of 3-4-6, at what stage should I use it for my tomatoes, mature stage? And just to be sure I understand what you recommend before: Seedling stage use 1-1-1 At transplant use 1:2:2 - 1:1:3 Edit: what about a balanced fertilizer like 4-4-4 or 10-10-10? I’m starting to have more fertilize than I do plants.😆
We had a fig that the birds dropped in my yard it grew about 4 feet before I seen it it was growing on a front fence line so I asked my son to transplant it of course he procrastinated and it grew about a half a foot before my husband saved it and we put it in our existing orchard,wow this tree took off no fruit the first year but that tree is about at least 11 feet tall with so many figlets on this tree we will be eating our own figs this year instead of buying expensive figs from other local growers also we have mullberry showed up two they are huge and this is their first year fruiting!
I assume you live in California, since it's the only place in the US where fig seeds can grow? Are you in the Sacramento/Modesto/Visalia area? That's generally the Fig Mecca in the US. I'm curious what the seedling will be. Keep in mind there is a 50% chance it'll be a male caprifig, which are generally not edible. If you luck out and get a female, there is a 75% chance it'll be a smyrna and require the fig wasp to pollinate it. If it is a smyrna, you'll need to find a way to colonize the fig wasp nearby or all the fruit will drop. It'll be very interesting to see what you'll get.
I'm so glad I came across this channel - the author is very passionate about what he does and it is infectious. Never thought that listening to how to grow a fig tree can be as interesting as a fascinating story with a good plot. Also very educational! Thank u!!
Thanks for helping us bust that myth in the fig community about planting figs deep. Very spot on explanation. You're the first one who has brought this fresh idea, as far as I know. This is one of your best videos! Nice job brother!
Thank you for an exceptional video! First off, giving date and location-no one does this and I’m always trying to figure out where gardening videos are made since climate is so vital. Also for giving details. Each time I had a question you answered it almost immediately. You are so methodical and detailed I suspect you are an engineer :). I love figs and this will help me grow more!
I’m in Australia and it’s so annoying when people say plant in March when they are somewhere in the Northern Hemisphere. We pretty much have to translate everything to metric and Southern Hemispheric seasons or months, not to mention we are also tropical and temperate and desert. We don’t mind terribly as our brains are accustomed to mental gymnastics when listening to Americans but gosh it’s a nice change to be able to relax a little whilst listening.
I always learn something from your fig videos! The fact that fig trees send out surface feeder roots and how compost and mulch help that whole process! The why's and wherefors are very much appreciated! Thank you!
great video bro, I preach this with all trees, those upper roots are called buttress roots, they actually send oxygen down to the roots under ground. I've seen so many trees buried too deep and the tree essentially suffocates. to make matters worse, people will bury the tree 1ft too deep and then volcano mulch ontop of that. your trees grew 6ft+ in one year, that's amazing, the trees were so happy they not only laid down their roots but also built a foundation uptop in the first year.
A deeply-planted tree with a mulch volcano is a great way to suffocate a tree. They need to breathe just like we need to breathe. I always plant my trees slightly high. It's always better to be a little too high than a little too low because trees that are too low can't be saved. If they're a little high, just mulch them. Surface roots just LOVE clawing their way through layers of loose organic matter. I do the same with all my trees: persimmon, banana, pawpaw, palms - my blackberries are planted on a huge mound and my 9 month old plant must have 250 berries on it! Let them breathe and they'll reward you!
@@TheMillennialGardener when this rain moves out I’m going to finish my banana circle. Bet ya a fig circle would work quite well especially planting them up on the berm.
My figs are houseplants but both main trees bearing fruit now.Plus,I've got 11 well rooted cuttings potted&a couple of fig bushes I grew from seed.I owe it all to you&your fig videos.My brooder of goslings are surrounded by them.Looks awesome!You would be proud.Thank you.
@@TheMillennialGardener I'm in Ohio but it's park like all year w my potted tropical fruit trees in the house.I have fruit&nut trees ordered for the yard.Also,because of you....lol....Thanx
@@TheMillennialGardener hi, my father has had figs his whole life. He told me about fig trees they used to have in Italy growing to massive sizes. Now he lives in Pittsburgh(since 1950’s). Any tree that he plants he actually uproots half of the tree in the fall and wraps in plastic and compresses tree with twine. Then he will push the uprooted part of the tree into a shallow “grave” he has dug and cover it with leaves for the winter so that the extended cold will not affect the timely formation of new fruit. If he doesn’t bury them, the figs bloom too late in the year to have a formidable harvest. Wish I could tell you which varieties he has, I can only say purple inside and out with tangy sweet taste. He also has one that stays green when it ripens with a golden inside which is a sweet mild taste(kind of what one would expect when eating honeydew melon). He has had other varieties as well but those 2 are the main ones.
I just bought a fig and peach tree last week and today I was cleared to dig, then this video just posted in my YT feed. How about that! Thanks for sharing your fig tree growing experiences.
I'd imagine planting many different fig trees in the same area also helps with their development. I'm no specialist in plant communication, but I had a professor who always emphasized the importance of a healthy and interlocked root system, when it came to plants exchanging information.
If you found this video helpful, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😀TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 My Secret To Insane Fig Tree Vigor 2:02 Tip #1: Proper Fig Tree Soil pH 4:07 Tip #2: Ideal Soil Type For Fig Tree Growing 7:17 Tip #3: My BIG Secret To Growing Figs 11:50 Digging A Planting Hole 13:13 Planting Fig Trees For Extreme Vigor 14:46 Proper Mulching Technique 19:17 Adventures With Dale
We had a fig tree that was given to us by my Italian Grandfather. It was Absolutely the best fig tree ever. Pinkish interior on the figs and plump. He did indeed graft his trees.
Finally an adequate channel pertaining to NC!!! Thank you so much for all you do. Please share more tips with us! Gardening in NC is not a joke (especially after California for us) and can be quite detrimental for the mental health. So your helpful tips are quite therapeutic ;) Keep going and growing
You came from California and you're gardening in North Carolina? That must've been a shock 😂 The inland regions are a little more forgiving because the summers dry out some, but coastal NC is a disaster waiting to happen for your garden. The dew points, the non-stop rains, the plagues of insects and caterpillars, the blights, the tropical storms - it's natural disaster after natural disaster. But, as you can see, it CAN BE DONE! It's just 10 times more work than California, where summers are dry and pest and disease pressure is relatively low. Simply moving to NC from the Philadelphia area where I used to live was like being punched in the stomach. I thought I was picking up a longer growing season, but I had *no idea* what was in-store for me, here. Living here is all about working with the climate, because you cannot fight our miserable, miserable summers. You have to plant a tremendous number of varieties of everything and go through the trial-and-error process until you find things that work. After 4 years, I've finally found enough winning varieties and developed enough of a pest and disease management schedule that I can have a decent harvest.
I'm glad it was helpful. Figs grow and fruit very quickly, so you can have a really nice, heavily fruiting tree in 2 seasons. Definitely take pictures and share the links in the comments.
My fig trees in zone 7A woke up in mid march. Have been taking them in and out of my garage on sunny days. When cold and rainy I keep them under high pressure sodium and high power led lights. They are thriving and have lots of brebas that are big already. It's amazing that three weeks ago there were little thumbnail size leaves now they are bigger than my head! Cant wait to get the outside full time.
I've always tried to leave some kind of reservoir around the tree so there is space for water to pool and then soak down into the roots ... If I put the roots on the surface it feels like the water will run off and away ...Naturally, I realize you are the one with the history of success with figs ...
If you feel it is too low, it will be simple to dig up and replant right now. It's best to do this ASAP before the roots take hold. Trying to do it later will be very difficult. Thank you for watching.
I have one fig tree and it struggles. But it is coming up again this year. I'll try to give it more of what it needs. I am so thankful for you teaching in detail what a fig needs. Ms Pat from southern Indiana 🌹
You're welcome! Fig wood is not hardy to your zone. I would recommend protecting it like I protect my bananas here: czcams.com/video/8p9IzCD9088/video.html Basically, cut your fig tree back to a 24-36" single stump, build a 2'x2' cage around it using 4' stakes and 48" chicken wire and stuff it with two bales of straw. That'll insulate the wood, and when you tear it down in the spring, use all that rotting straw as a gorgeous mulch layer. I recommend buying your straw bales 30-60 days before you use them so they can sit out in the rain and sun to ensure the seeds rot and any herbicide washes away before use.
I got a fig tree at Lowe's and planted it in the front yard, it seems to be doing very well. I live in C. NC. My front yard gets really good sun and there's good drainage. We have alot of sandy soil here and clay. It seems to be doing really well in the spot I selected. We shall see how it grows!
My sister who lived in the north east of England had a fig tree from a very small seedling. It grew into a very large tree in a small garden. She never gave it any fertiliser or looked after it in any particular way.
Did it fruit for her? Often, growers in the UK struggle with ripening figs because they require a lengthy warm season to ripen. Maybe they ate the brebas?
Thank you very much for the valuable information. I love the feeling of being "Set Up For Success" by your videos which in turn makes me more willing to try growing these awesome trees. Thanks for sharing.
What a great video! Now I know that I didn’t miss one single mistake. 😬 Despite of that my brave beloved fig tree gave me some figs in its second year. Well. Now I can try to improve the situation. Thanks a lot for your great advice!
My fig had to be planted 1 yr after purchase. Zone 8B now, planted when we were still 7B. It grows vigorously every year, and is 10ft tall now. Pruning and feeding are key to good vegatative growth that supports heavy fruit production without bending or breaking. Our friend has one 45y/o and Ive Never seen one that large. It has to be 20ft tall and 15ft wide. Gorgeous. His elevation higher, but same weather normally, slightly cooler (8a)
It's bad heat here in Metro Manila with 42°C or higher, thus I irrigate well my 2 children figs in their pots located at the house rooftop. Though it is down to less than 40°C now that it's May but I am consistent in well-watering. The leaves are upright and proud. I bought a 10-liter drum to have these 2 babies be transferred in June when rain becomes an ally to their futther growth. I just regret that earlier on, I should have started growing "this fruit of God' but perhaps this is readying up for the great-grandchildren to enjoy the blessings. I will follow what you instruct here.❤Thanks huge.
We had a very, very late hard freeze on April 3. At the time, they all had 6-8 inches of new growth. I think this late hard freeze did more damage than the crazy Texas freeze. They are still all black. Almost no activity. Usually by now they’re at least a foot tall. I think my in-ground season is over before it started. At least the containers are going well 😞
@@TheMillennialGardener hold strong, mine took weeks to come back. Mine were doing fine as we normally don’t have any type of freeze damage. I covered them but to no luck. All above ground plant structure died. I thought they were toast. They are coming back from the roots vigorously. Almost to the point I think it might have been beneficial. I hope yours come back too!
@@ryanrex297 the problem is it's two very different things. When you guys got that awful freeze, I'm guessing it killed a ton of dormant wood, right? Perhaps the trees got killed to the roots? While it totally stinks to lose so much wood, the trees will come back from the roots, or from the nearest live node. My situation is a little different. The trees had already woken up and every node budded out already. Once the late hard freeze came, it destroyed the buds on every node because they were already awake. The hardwood is fine on the tree, but the buds were killed. Now, I have to wake for every single node to abort the failed bud and create a new bud. It's taking forever. A couple of them are actually sending shoots from the roots that are actively growing, but the buds are barely budging. It's bizarre watching them try to make new buds at the nodes while aborting the existing buds. I've never had to deal with this before.
I see. So it is a bit different. My trees still had leaves though they were mature from the summer before. If it weren’t for that snow storm I would likely have had leaves going into spring as we had yet to have any real sub 32 temperatures. I did loose everything above ground however. Only the tiger panache is shooting new growth from old wood. I had everything covered but put all my heating resources into the avocados, and they did make it through. What a weird year for weather!
Fabulous instruction- precise and to the point! I have just watched 2 of your videos and I must say it is super to see a video that has no waffling and also all the instruction that one needs to succeed. THANKS A LOT!
Sandy, loamy soil. That explains the great fig trees in S. Alabama. My granddaddy had one that we climbed to pick figs. We'd hang a bucket on a limb & pick away.
The key is a lot of organic matter and room for their roots to run. Figs are extremely heavy feeders. The South has some really old fig trees. I wonder what variety it was?
@@TheMillennialGardener Wish I could tell you but it's no longer there. But, thanks for the info since I've struggled to have decent figs in the rocky, clay soil where I live now. Gonna work on them.
1) When you use the bone meal, do you have experience with Dale trying to eat it? 2) This AWD segment is the funniest one you've posted. Poor Dale looks like he wants to take out your kneecap for laughing at him as soon as he gets out of that tub. Very helpful video! Thanks!
He used to obsess over the bone meal and fish emulsion when we first got Dale last year. He would try to eat out of my containers and I'd have to yell at him and chase him away. He doesn't try to eat it anymore, but he's still obsessed with the smell. As soon as it comes out, he runs over to give the bags a thorough inspection. Dale is a good boy. He is not thrilled with the bath process itself, but he sits there and takes it. However, when he's done, he feels SO GOOD. He does laps around the yard to air-dry and then he usually takes a nap because he feels so much better. He gets a bath once every 2 weeks. I am allergic to dogs, actually, and bathing him every 2 weeks has kept me pretty problem-free.
@@TheMillennialGardener That's too bad about your allergy. You and Dale have such a good relationship. He seems a completely happy dog, and he's very handsome. Introducing him into your videos was a wise move, IMHO.
I have not really been a fertilizer practitioner in my previous live, but I've practiced 10-10-10 slow release and fish emulsion with Miracle Grow All purpose for immediate feeding as you suggested and my 10" Christmas time fig starts are all 6-7 feet tall now with base stem 1 to 1.5 " in diameter. Desert Kings have 8-10 fruit each and Violet De-Bordeaux have about 3-4 fruits. I've been taking off all new fruit buds since July 1st, hoping to get the existing fruit to maturity quicker. Topping off the trees did not slow them down. They released new leaders that are reaching for the sky. I am Seattle, 8B zone.
That sounds like a lot of growth for Seattle. I know the cool summers can be quite the challenge for figs. Figs are voracious feeders, and proper fertilizing is extremely beneficial in my experience.
I’m so glad I found your videos on transplanting fig trees. I grew up eating from a huge fig tree in our backyard. I’ve recently seen two fig trees growing in yards without raised beds and they are also doing great. Our fig tree didn’t have a raised bed either and it was huge with huge leaves and big delicious figs. I’m adult now and nearly 60 years old, I’m happy to say. This will be my first time actually planting fig trees so I’ll follow your recommendations on planting my two trees. I wish to have great success with them. This makes so much sense, but I do plan to plant them further away from the privacy fence so that I can walk completely around them to harvest figs from them. I plan to get a couple more of different varieties to grow along with them. Thank you for sharing your knowledge about fig trees. Do you also have videos on the health benefits of eating figs? I think that information is also very important and will encourage more people to plant and grow fig trees. Again, thank you so much.
Thank you. I’m glad you are enjoying the videos. The benefit of placing your fig trees in a raised bed helps when they’re young. When the trees are new transplants, they like to send out surface roots, so transplanting new figs into ground elevated a few inches helps them get a head start. Once they establish, though, it no longer matters as long as your soil has good drainage. A well-established tree won’t matter either way. It’s just a good trick to get them growing faster when they’re small. I do not have a video on the health benefits of figs. However, I am of the belief that most of our sicknesses today come from eating processed foods and “industrial food-like substances” like Poptarts, cereal, chips, etc. I believe that it isn’t worth arguing over the health benefits of foods that we grow in our garden because it is all “real food” and healthy. As long as you don’t have a reason why you can’t have natural sugar (like diabetes), figs are a wonderfully healthy food. Ya know, as long as you don’t completely overeat them all the time. Too much of anything is, well, too much!
@@TheMillennialGardener Oh yes… I live in Georgia. Just past Savannah, before you get to Jacksonville Florida. I plant in raised beds, large pots, and grow bags because I would have to heavily amend the soil in my backyard. I do plan to put my fig trees in the ground with a raised bed around them. QUESTION: Is it best to transplant them to 5 gallon buckets for a while before transplanting them to the ground? Thank you for your response.
I also think canning is a great idea when you have too many, they are delicious and you can have them all year around. You canned them in a lite syrup. The syrup turns to a wine color and looks beautiful. Try it. Thanks for all your wonderful information
Thank you so much for this video... I tried planting one of my fig trees in ground a few years ago and it thrived all that summer, grew several feet but then winter came, and I think I smothered it to death trying to protect it.... One thing I think I did wrong is that I planted a very young plant... so it's root system just couldn't survive the winter... I'm in zone 7 in southern Missouri and my potted figs do quite well here because I over winter them in the barn but I really want to plant some in ground figs and I have the perfect spot next to a south facing rock wall... I am going to give it another try now...
Great info, thanks! You may want to check to see if your county has free wood chips/mulch. Where I live there’s a mountain of it for anyone to take what they want for free. I load several larger totes into the bed of the SUV and use a small tote to fill the totes in place so I never have to lift a heavy tote by myself. I use a pick rake which works much better than a shovel to get the mulch into the small tote which I can easily carry, then dump several into the large totes. When I get home my husband helps me get the totes out. And lol, whenever I buy bagged cow manure compost or soil, I reuse those bags by cutting them across the top right next to the seal with a sharp razor. They are great “free” heavy duty “contractor” trash bags. I hate paying for bags of I don’t have to because they are so expensive.
Coffee has a pH of about 5. Used coffee grounds are only slightly acidic at about 6.5. You can acidify soil with sulfur, you just have to use the right amount.
Fig trees propagate super easy, don't need to do much of anything other then cut a branch with at least 8 healthy leaves and stick it straight in the ground and keep it watered and it will grow its own roots without rooting hormone or grafting. Do this during time of year when the air is slightly damp and cool so the leaves live long enough for new growth to show. Sometimes the leaves die, but the plant is still growing. Just test plant by bending it, if it's super flexible it'd still alive. Keep it well watered (over watered is better than under watered till it has at least 2 new sets of leaves grown). You can literally cut the top off each of your plants and just shove it in the ground in between your other plants and do nothing else special with them and they will grow. Also, You are going to destroy your fence with the soil being up against it. Gonna rot away the entire bottom and all the support beams in ground...
I have two fig trees. I didn't get some fruits last year and with your tips that I will apply then maybe I will get more fruits this year. Thanks for your videos. You're so well experience! 😂
One, you have good soil. Two, you have a high water table. Hard clay soil...nothing can grow in it, need water constantly. No humidity, or rain...so trying pots. If we leave any roots exposed the trees stress, dry out in hrs. Seriously sick area to grow anything. :/ Bought a fig from nursery like 6yrs ago & still nothing. Rooted a broken branch 2yrs ago from same fig & getting 3 figs...fingers crossed.
My soil is pretty good in terms of its ability to drain. However, having sandy soil has its own challenges due to nematode problems, lack of organic matter and nutrients, pathogenic bacteria, etc. It's not all sunshine and rainbows, for sure. Then, we have to get into my miserable climate for ripening figs with the near-daily afternoon thunderstorms and 70% afternoon humidity. It can get pretty nasty, here. Hard clay soil isn't necessarily bad, because you can transform it. Hard clay soil is packed with nutrients. You just have to transform the soil so you can tap into that nutrient store. You can do this by: 1. Aggressively tilling in compost into the first 6-12 inches over several passes. 2. Build a big compost berm that's 12+ inches tall. 3. Aggressively mulch the berm with arborist wood chips or lots of hardwood mulch. Plant your trees in this giant compost berm with tilled soil underneath it. Run drip irrigation to the berm. Always amend the berm annually with some fresh compost and mulch. Always maintain a 3-4 inch mulch layer at all times of year. I did something like this with my blackberries. You can see the big berm I built here: czcams.com/video/hj1PW9Yo9pk/video.html If you are willing to build infrastructure like this, you can dominate in your dry climate. Figs love, love, love hot dry weather, so a compost berm on drip irrigation in an arid climate can produce some world-class figs. If you're willing to put in the effort, your figs will blow my figs away in my humid, soupy climate.
Thanks a lot for all your videos . Finally I have growing a fig tree ,it is beautiful. I was trying many times but I couldn't always they die..now thanks to you I'm very happy . Thanks again.
I have fig trees emerge on my property all on their own! Basically weeds! One appeared in the middle of our new vacant paddock one day, I transplanted it to a new location, which became our orchard! (We live in an old orchard farming area - the parrots eat the fruit and poop the seeds elsewhere)
my mom has a dog tree that is over 40 years old. she got it as a cutting from her neighbor who brought a cutting with him from itialy. she often gets 2 separate crops of figs each year. they start off green and turn yellow when ripe. they are super sweet. no special care is given to the tree.
I have a fig tree purchased 2019!. I2019 I collected 38 figs off of the “MISS FIGGY) fromHome Depot in the summer of 2019 Kept it in the pot, but will plant this year.. Thank you for the great informationon planting fig tree.
Could you tell me about your experience with your Miss Figgy? Flavor, growth, etc? Also how big was it when you bought the tree? I just purchased one earlier this year and was wondering what I can expect since it's my first fig tree. Thank you!
@@ts9658 Miss Figgy is delicious . Semi sweet External Color is pale green. Internal Color is similar to a fresh peach. Taste redeemable a fresh peach and a mango, it’s very good. Size of a medium: large walnut. I fertilize with compost tea . This was my first taste of a fig and it was very good as older people said it was. I am excited to taste other figs.
I've planting common figs for only around 10 mos in a 6gal plastic pot but it needs constant watering especially when its starts fruiting or else it would abort its fruits if not watered for only 2days but when it rains heavy I usually dont water them, it fruits non stop, its on third batch of fruiting now, by the way I use coco coir mixed with compost instead of soil, find it better for I dont have to water them regularly/daily and compared to soil planted ones they are bigger
I think given your location, they'll do well espalier. You can see how I grow mine here: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFlbg2ri_7gCJPhXaZ_nOvy.html This keeps them very low and compact.
You do produce excellent and VERY informative videos! I appreciate you going above and beyond compared to some others--you got a new subscriber here.Thank you!
Yes coffee grinds acidify the soil, improve drainage, water retention, and aeration in the soil. Now for the not so good: Adding coffee grounds to your garden is the last thing you want to do. A 2016 study in the journal Urban Forestry & Urban Greening said it all in the title: "Applying spent coffee grounds directly to urban agriculture soils greatly reduces plant growth." Plants that produce caffine do so for a purpose, that purpose is competition: Caffine kills off any competing plants in the surrounding area. Another study inadvertently found that compost spiked with coffee grounds kills earthworms and helpful bacteria.
I believe and have experience of fig tree trunks rooting between nodes. While rooting fig cuttings, I used to make a longitudinal slit in the bark at the bottom end of the cutting and used to observe bunch of roots in the slit between the nodes.
Figs can root through the cambium. Some people do scrape away the outer layer of bark to expose the cambium for more rooting. The problem with this method is it opens cuttings up to bacteria and fungi entering them and rotting them more quickly, so you need to have all the rooting conditions right because they may become more susceptible to rot. Once they root and you plant them, though, I advocate for planting them high.
I live in the High Desert of Cali. I have 15 fig trees, all different varieties. I have never done anything special. I put them in the ground, I water them once or twice a week. No fertilizer, no amendments in the soil. I get huge crops. None of mine are grafted. They are under 90% shade sails. I usually cut them back in the early spring - doing half the tree each year so it is always bearing. All of my figs are double harvest as we have a long season here. Figs are my favorite too!
You very well may live in a location that colonizes the fig wasp. I am 3,000 miles away from the nearest fig wasp in the exact opposite rainfall pattern as a Mediterranean climate, growing on low-nutrient sand, so my environment couldn't be more opposite than the native land of figs. You live in nearly ideal fig-growing conditions. I would invite you to experiment with fertilizing via drip irrigation, given your climate. You may be surprised how much you can improve yields. They react really well to phosphorous, especially this time of year.
You don't need to do anything to any crop in Cali just because the climate and the soil are so good there. Trust me it's very different here in NC with all that rain, pests, fungus, clay soil and so on
I'm in Northern NJ. Because my soil is terrible rocky, brick/glass infested soil is so terrible, I've created square beds & used a mix of bagged premium soil, peat moss & cleaned/screened dirt from my yard. Would you suggest adding a bit of sand to the soil in or around the beds to create a more loamy soil? Thanks. Your videos are excellent, well produced & packed with great info that you have tested yourself. Thanks for being a great source of good info.
I look at a video of proper planting, then look at the one we have here, very damp clay loam soil and the thing won't stop growing. The only tips I have, is 1) always leave the leaves when they drop around the tree and 2) during winter if you have a growing season, plant a pea (snow pea, sugar snap etc) around the base. I plant a ton of peas around all my deciduous trees during winter.
Certainly helpful. I have work to do to help my one poor fig (Olympus) which hasn't had fruit since I planted it 3 yrs ago. Think I'll order a couple more fig trees
what a nice job! and super inexpensive mulch. i never spend on trash bags cus I shake out, fols up & save all from products. they are strong enough to not be torn open by rodents or birds.
I'm glad to hear that! That dyed mulch is usually crushed up pallets and junk lumber, which is why it's cheaper than natural mulches. You don't really want that mulch in your garden. If you can find a local landscaping place that delivers mulch, you can get better quality stuff that's natural for similar pricing and support a little guy. If you have a pick-up truck, your local county transfer station often gives away FREE mulch from tree trimming, too, so it's worth checking your county's website.
Cannot say enough of the good thing about your video. Lots of info with details. I have few fig trees in the pot - wish had enough ground space so I could use your technics.
Thanks for watching! I lived most of my life in urban areas where land was scarce. I moved to a more rural area to get some more land to do this 😅 If you ever desire more land, the edible landscaping is the way to go in my opinion.
Because of where I live in Southern California in 55+ community, we aren’t allowed to plant any fruiting tree in the ground. I rescued a volunteer fig tree and put it in a pot in my personal garden space (also “illegal”!). It’s refreshing to see someone with such a great attitude and desire to grow an edible landscape. Great video! Love your straightforward approach and clear instructions! Thank you!
Outstanding! I'm so happy to hear that. Hoping you have many years of bountiful harvests. If you need help fertilizing, I have a series on how to do that here: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
good advice. Sorry he did not put a moisture burrier along the fence. Each watering will help rot the fence a little faster than necessary. Possibly not a big problem.
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I'm happy to hear that! Figs are very rewarding. They're fun to grow and fruit quickly. Just make sure you fertilize them a lot, because they require a lot of fertilizer. This video series can help you be successful: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
Thanks for sharing I was lucky I didn't know anything about figs tree , we planted one about 10 years ago, never have need it to put fertilized / compost IO get a lot of fruits every year, more than what can we eat, but this tree put big branches every year you are going to need to prune a lot of those when they get older.. If I ever plant an other fig I would place it about 12 to 15 feet apart in the ground.
From my experience these tree grow without any attention, the only attention is when they are young and in the winter is cold less than -5° you would want to protect them the first years. But after it grows and it starts to get limnified they are fine. Ofc if you give them optimal terrain, compost, ambient, position etc they will grow way faster. But standard they are not a pretentios plant
Nice work on demonstrating to achieve maximum figs keeping in mind some trees 🌲 I have seen only 5” feet but Damm 400 plus fig’s each branch 50 plus don’t no the name of the tree 🌲 but I took 20 cutting and 90 percent strike very happy 😃 chappy 🙏🏼💪🙏🏼🌲🌲plus I crafted it onto a black mission and it’s taken hold 🖖🌲🖖the fig is bright green and a little bend in middle
Figs, when planted in-ground properly and once well-established, can fruit profusely. Especially in their ideal climate like you'll find in areas of California. Getting them to fruit heavily when young is more of a technique the gardener must perfect. I can't wait until these trees are mature.
Thanks so much for your instruction. I just listened to an IV Organics video where they were saying that you shouldn't mix in a lot of organic material to your soil. But that the organic matter sits on the top in the forest and the tree doesn't like living in it because it's rotting. So I'm happy to hear this instruction which helps cement the other instruction. I will start putting my organic material on the top, so The Roots don't get crushed as it decomposes. My only questions are, will the soil get warm enough in the summer and will it hold in too much moisture in the fall when it rains a lot in the Pacific Northwest if you top with mulch?
I believe it's true that you shouldn't place a lot of organic matter underneath the root ball. The taproot should be growing through real dirt. A lot of taproots don't like decomposition or standing moisture. However, backfill around the top several inches of the root ball is a different story. In my experience, trees love sending "feeder roots" through the first few inches of soil, and those feeder roots search out moisture and nutrients. Therefore, a rich layer of organic matter is key. Similar to what you said, in forests, the top foot or so of ground is actually a constantly decaying organic matter: leaves, pine needles, bark, fallen branches, etc. It's how forests "feed themselves" in a sustainable cycle, so I try and emulate that under my trees. I want the top 4-6 inches or so to be a constantly decaying mix of organic matter. I prefer cow manure compost and hardwood bark mulch due to availability, but chopped leaves is great, too. I don't know exactly how a thick mulch layer will affect your heat in your climate. I'm just about as far southeast in North Carolina as you can get, so our summers are intensely hot and humid. I can't say if mulch will make your roots too cool. You'd have to experiment and try "with" on some trees and "without" on others and perform an analysis. You may be able to get away with just a good, black layer of compost and that can be your "mulch," and the black attracts heat.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for your reply, I think the compost would probably be enough in our climate in the summer and then I would probably just mulch in the winter. But I will try the experiment also, thanks.
My bareroot fig from Lowes did amazing in its first year then i moved it to a permanent position in a planter but then the sand i used for drainage wasnt sand but clay with sand and blocked drainage n almost killed it, i corrected in time and its doing well again.
My soil is base clay with zero percolation. I have to use raised beds and an elaborate runoff sump with a pump that reuses that water out to another section of the garden.
Sorry to hear about your figs getting hit by a late freeze. My fig trees were still dormant when Texas got it's hard freeze. While some of the wood was killed, not all of it was. I can only surmise from the somewhat random spots that got affected that the tree was just starting to come out of dormancy when the freeze hit which sort of makes sense from my experience. As a result, it knocked back my fig trees at least a month from their normal timing of emerging from dormancy. And, boy howdy, am I grateful that they were still dormant. Also, I don't expect to get a breba crop this year. I know people say it's not as good as the main crop, but I disagree. Also, freezes like this are ironically nature's way of pruning which I am terrible at doing.
I've experienced both cold damage and a late freeze now, and I think the late freezes are even worse. Last year, I had 3 trees take some cold damage and I had to sever the dieback. However, they still leafed out at about the same time as the undamaged trees. They had to grow back more, so they were a little behind, but I did get fruit off of them. It was just behind schedule. This late freeze was a disaster. The trees still are barely moving. They had to abort the old buds and push them out with new green buds, so they're finally starting to show signs of life. My trees that got hit were further along than this on March 1, so it looks like this cost me at least 60 days of progress. It seems we can't catch a break. Now, there is going to be another cold air outbreak Wednesday night and Thursday night. Keep an eye out. Most of Texas is going to take a frost, as is most of the Carolinas. I'm hoping my proximity to the ocean protects me, but the inland counties are already under a frost watch. It just won't end, it seems. Again, our usual last frost is the 3rd or 4th week of March 😰
@@TheMillennialGardener This is definitely crazy weather. I have a relative in Kansas City who is an avid gardener. I remember asking what their latest frost is, and I remember her saying May 1. I didn't believe her. This year has made me a believer. I live far enough south that we aren't getting anywhere close to freezing temps again, just lows in the mid-40s with daytime highs in the 70s. In fact, it is our sub-tropical climate that led me to planting fig trees because my real love is cherries, but it just isn't cold enough here. But at the same time really too cold for citrus. Yet, despite all the cold this winter, my in-ground pineapples survived while my peach tree is starting completely over. I hope your trees make it.
I live in central Florida and I've got an in-ground fig that's about 15 years old. It used to bear 100 figs a year but then it had some health issues, and by last year the yield had dwindled to around ten figs. I've been babying it since last summer and it is now lush with leaves and has around 10 breba fruits on it. It really hasn't looked this good in years. I'm wondering if a small breba crop predicts a small main crop?
My biggest realization for figs is the reduction of watering. When first planting, a good watering is fine, but afterward figs almost never need watering. Remember, most come from the middle east, they thrive in hot dry climates. Especially when harvesting. A good rain makes for soggy watery figs. A dry period gives thick, syrupy sweet figs.
I believe the origin of figs are Mediterranean regions, and they prefer to grow in limestone-rich soil. While it's very dry in the Mediterranean summers, it's very wet in the winters. The heavy rainfall in the winter actually store in the limestone rich soil, and the aggressive feeder roots weave inside the limestone pockets, which stay damp all summer. So, while it doesn't rain all summer, the roots themselves are so extensive that they can survive siphoning moisture from the damp rocks below. While it's true they can go a long time in their native conditions without water, if you're trying to grow them in a hot, arid region in sand, they'll need irrigation since sandy soil slack the moisture-rich rock pockets. Here in NC, I never have to water them once they establish because we get so much rain. However, if you're growing in sandy soil in arid regions of the Southwest, they may need to be on drip.
Figs actually don't handle drought well, in my experience. If your containers dry out, they sag and look horrible almost instantly, and if it dries out too much, the leaves become brittle and get destroyed. I think citrus are far more drought tolerant than figs. It's just when planted in-ground in that limestone rich soil, their crazy aggressive roots are incredible at finding moisture, so they can expertly seek out moisture in the proper conditions, even in the Middle East. But you need that soil type.
@@TheMillennialGardener 8iiil Uni I iOK Bbasaars
It's like the difference between a Georgia peach and a Cali peach. Ours are more syrupy, winey and wonderful, and drier than the irrigated left coast peaches.
@@TheMillennialGardeneractually the autumn is way, way rainer that the winter, we had absolute megarains In November
We live in Oregon which usually has a lot of rain. Figs do well here.
this is EXACTLY what an instructional video should be. thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Absolutely agree!!
Yes, I second @wilsonsoldgrove8010. Excellent, logical and clear explanations and demonstrations. Thank you!
Short version: Keep them on a high spot so the roots don't drown and the trunk doesn't rot, and give them solid dose of balanced fertilizer enhanced by plenty of organic matter at planting time.
I often hear the bad advice(even from nurseries) not to fertilize trees at transplant or in their first year: based on some speculation that the top growth is at the expense of root growth, which is total nonsense from a botanical and orchard perspective.
Now if you have ground that is already at the rich end then it is pretty harmless advice, but for many others the result is stunted trees.
There is a chance at the extreme end if continuously side dressing every couple weeks with high N, to get very soft rapid growth into fall and end up with some freeze damage, but this is not an issue with a modest dose of nutrients in the spring. Personally, [I also have sandy loam] transplanted trees on my land will just die of malnutrition if not given a boost at transplant. They don't need too much in later years because the light soil lets the roots go wide and deep, substituting quantity of soil for quality but those first two years need some grow juice.
Canadian Permaculture Legacy seems to know a lot about building healthy soil microbiology. Mulch thick via Back to Eden method to restore the fungus and bacteria which actually release the nutrients bound up in the soil. Also "never bare soil" because mother nature would plant something there, and nematodes etc feed on all the root exudates
You sound like you know your stuff. I wish I had seen Millennial's fruit tree planting videos before I had planted my own {Granny Smith Apple, Montgomery Cherry, 2 Italian Plums}. I planted them last year and regretfully followed the 'no fertilizing' instructions that came included along with my trees. Now I'm wondering if I did the right thing because those trees are alive but not impressively vigorous 🤔.
as long as you fertillize Early spring every yr it wont affect texture of fruit. If they are forming buds early spring is still ok, but not after they beging to swell. Too much water before harvest can make the figs squishy. I also learned too much Nitrogen can do the same to tomatoes and they become mealy and soft.
@@ELBlDu
The ratio of nutrients is important. Tomatoes are actually extremely heavy feeders but they mature plants need about 2-3x more potassium than nitrogen. Basically the problem isn't usually high nitrogen but low potassium. Setting aside extremes.
(1:1:1 NPK is good in the pot before transplanting.)
Also moderately high phosphate is good for a seedling starter, but moderate to low is sufficient after transplant 1:1:2-1:1:3 (High P like 1:3:3 won't hurt a mature plant but it's just wasteful at that stage).
Apples also have a strong potassium and calcium demand when it comes to fruit qualities.
@@mytech6779 I bought tomato tone but I has an NPK of 3-4-6, at what stage should I use it for my tomatoes, mature stage? And just to be sure I understand what you recommend before:
Seedling stage use 1-1-1
At transplant use 1:2:2 - 1:1:3
Edit: what about a balanced fertilizer like 4-4-4 or 10-10-10?
I’m starting to have more fertilize than I do plants.😆
We had a fig that the birds dropped in my yard it grew about 4 feet before I seen it it was growing on a front fence line so I asked my son to transplant it of course he procrastinated and it grew about a half a foot before my husband saved it and we put it in our existing orchard,wow this tree took off no fruit the first year but that tree is about at least 11 feet tall with so many figlets on this tree we will be eating our own figs this year instead of buying expensive figs from other local growers also we have mullberry showed up two they are huge and this is their first year fruiting!
I assume you live in California, since it's the only place in the US where fig seeds can grow? Are you in the Sacramento/Modesto/Visalia area? That's generally the Fig Mecca in the US. I'm curious what the seedling will be. Keep in mind there is a 50% chance it'll be a male caprifig, which are generally not edible. If you luck out and get a female, there is a 75% chance it'll be a smyrna and require the fig wasp to pollinate it. If it is a smyrna, you'll need to find a way to colonize the fig wasp nearby or all the fruit will drop. It'll be very interesting to see what you'll get.
I love that you don't halfass anything you literally go for it fully to try and do things right and give it the best shot 👍🏼
I think if you're going to put in the effort, you may as well give it your all. No use working outside in the heat for half a result!
I'm so glad I came across this channel - the author is very passionate about what he does and it is infectious. Never thought that listening to how to grow a fig tree can be as interesting as a fascinating story with a good plot. Also very educational! Thank u!!
Thanks for helping us bust that myth in the fig community about planting figs deep. Very spot on explanation. You're the first one who has brought this fresh idea, as far as I know. This is one of your best videos! Nice job brother!
Thank you. I’m glad it made sense. My raised bed is like a net of roots. It also works wonders for my citrus and avocado trees!
@@TheMillennialGardener what does it look like today?
Thank you for an exceptional video! First off, giving date and location-no one does this and I’m always trying to figure out where gardening videos are made since climate is so vital. Also for giving details. Each time I had a question you answered it almost immediately. You are so methodical and detailed I suspect you are an engineer :). I love figs and this will help me grow more!
Yessssss!!!
I’m in Australia and it’s so annoying when people say plant in March when they are somewhere in the Northern Hemisphere. We pretty much have to translate everything to metric and Southern Hemispheric seasons or months, not to mention we are also tropical and temperate and desert. We don’t mind terribly as our brains are accustomed to mental gymnastics when listening to Americans but gosh it’s a nice change to be able to relax a little whilst listening.
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I always learn something from your fig videos! The fact that fig trees send out surface feeder roots and how compost and mulch help that whole process! The why's and wherefors are very much appreciated! Thank you!
great video bro, I preach this with all trees, those upper roots are called buttress roots, they actually send oxygen down to the roots under ground. I've seen so many trees buried too deep and the tree essentially suffocates. to make matters worse, people will bury the tree 1ft too deep and then volcano mulch ontop of that. your trees grew 6ft+ in one year, that's amazing, the trees were so happy they not only laid down their roots but also built a foundation uptop in the first year.
A deeply-planted tree with a mulch volcano is a great way to suffocate a tree. They need to breathe just like we need to breathe. I always plant my trees slightly high. It's always better to be a little too high than a little too low because trees that are too low can't be saved. If they're a little high, just mulch them. Surface roots just LOVE clawing their way through layers of loose organic matter. I do the same with all my trees: persimmon, banana, pawpaw, palms - my blackberries are planted on a huge mound and my 9 month old plant must have 250 berries on it! Let them breathe and they'll reward you!
@@TheMillennialGardener when this rain moves out I’m going to finish my banana circle. Bet ya a fig circle would work quite well especially planting them up on the berm.
My figs are houseplants but both main trees bearing fruit now.Plus,I've got 11 well rooted cuttings potted&a couple of fig bushes I grew from seed.I owe it all to you&your fig videos.My brooder of goslings are surrounded by them.Looks awesome!You would be proud.Thank you.
I'm happy to hear the videos are helping. Have you considered planting them outside?
@@TheMillennialGardener I'm in Ohio but it's park like all year w my potted tropical fruit trees in the house.I have fruit&nut trees ordered for the yard.Also,because of you....lol....Thanx
@@TheMillennialGardener hi, my father has had figs his whole life. He told me about fig trees they used to have in Italy growing to massive sizes. Now he lives in Pittsburgh(since 1950’s). Any tree that he plants he actually uproots half of the tree in the fall and wraps in plastic and compresses tree with twine. Then he will push the uprooted part of the tree into a shallow “grave” he has dug and cover it with leaves for the winter so that the extended cold will not affect the timely formation of new fruit.
If he doesn’t bury them, the figs bloom too late in the year to have a formidable harvest.
Wish I could tell you which varieties he has, I can only say purple inside and out with tangy sweet taste. He also has one that stays green when it ripens with a golden inside which is a sweet mild taste(kind of what one would expect when eating honeydew melon). He has had other varieties as well but those 2 are the main ones.
I just bought a fig and peach tree last week and today I was cleared to dig, then this video just posted in my YT feed. How about that! Thanks for sharing your fig tree growing experiences.
I'm glad the timing worked out for you! Thanks for watching!
This is the first time I saw a video that was so well done on figs. Thank you for making fig video's
I love growing figs, and I want to encourage everyone else to give them a try. They're so much fun to grow. I appreciate you watching.
I'd imagine planting many different fig trees in the same area also helps with their development. I'm no specialist in plant communication, but I had a professor who always emphasized the importance of a healthy and interlocked root system, when it came to plants exchanging information.
If you found this video helpful, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😀TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 My Secret To Insane Fig Tree Vigor
2:02 Tip #1: Proper Fig Tree Soil pH
4:07 Tip #2: Ideal Soil Type For Fig Tree Growing
7:17 Tip #3: My BIG Secret To Growing Figs
11:50 Digging A Planting Hole
13:13 Planting Fig Trees For Extreme Vigor
14:46 Proper Mulching Technique
19:17 Adventures With Dale
Where is the list of products you used for this video ?
Thank you
We had a fig tree that was given to us by my Italian Grandfather. It was Absolutely the best fig tree ever. Pinkish interior on the figs and plump. He did indeed graft his trees.
Finally an adequate channel pertaining to NC!!! Thank you so much for all you do. Please share more tips with us! Gardening in NC is not a joke (especially after California for us) and can be quite detrimental for the mental health. So your helpful tips are quite therapeutic ;)
Keep going and growing
You came from California and you're gardening in North Carolina? That must've been a shock 😂 The inland regions are a little more forgiving because the summers dry out some, but coastal NC is a disaster waiting to happen for your garden. The dew points, the non-stop rains, the plagues of insects and caterpillars, the blights, the tropical storms - it's natural disaster after natural disaster. But, as you can see, it CAN BE DONE! It's just 10 times more work than California, where summers are dry and pest and disease pressure is relatively low. Simply moving to NC from the Philadelphia area where I used to live was like being punched in the stomach. I thought I was picking up a longer growing season, but I had *no idea* what was in-store for me, here. Living here is all about working with the climate, because you cannot fight our miserable, miserable summers. You have to plant a tremendous number of varieties of everything and go through the trial-and-error process until you find things that work. After 4 years, I've finally found enough winning varieties and developed enough of a pest and disease management schedule that I can have a decent harvest.
Thanks for sharing the every detail of the ground planting of the fig tree, I hope one day I can show you my fig trees full of figs!
I'm glad it was helpful. Figs grow and fruit very quickly, so you can have a really nice, heavily fruiting tree in 2 seasons. Definitely take pictures and share the links in the comments.
My fig trees in zone 7A woke up in mid march. Have been taking them in and out of my garage on sunny days. When cold and rainy I keep them under high pressure sodium and high power led lights. They are thriving and have lots of brebas that are big already. It's amazing that three weeks ago there were little thumbnail size leaves now they are bigger than my head! Cant wait to get the outside full time.
Nice - congratulations!
@@catherinegrace2366 Thanks, Nothing like like a fresh Fig!
Once they wake up, they grow like weeds! Glad to hear you're having a solid start to the season.
I've always tried to leave some kind of reservoir around the tree so there is space for water to pool and then soak down into the roots ... If I put the roots on the surface it feels like the water will run off and away ...Naturally, I realize you are the one with the history of success with figs ...
Thanks for helping me "fig"ure out how to plant my potted fig trees.
Excellent instructional video!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your tips. I wish that I watched your video before I planted my fig trees two weeks ago.
If you feel it is too low, it will be simple to dig up and replant right now. It's best to do this ASAP before the roots take hold. Trying to do it later will be very difficult. Thank you for watching.
I have one fig tree and it struggles. But it is coming up again this year. I'll try to give it more of what it needs. I am so thankful for you teaching in detail what a fig needs.
Ms Pat from southern Indiana 🌹
You're welcome! Fig wood is not hardy to your zone. I would recommend protecting it like I protect my bananas here: czcams.com/video/8p9IzCD9088/video.html
Basically, cut your fig tree back to a 24-36" single stump, build a 2'x2' cage around it using 4' stakes and 48" chicken wire and stuff it with two bales of straw. That'll insulate the wood, and when you tear it down in the spring, use all that rotting straw as a gorgeous mulch layer. I recommend buying your straw bales 30-60 days before you use them so they can sit out in the rain and sun to ensure the seeds rot and any herbicide washes away before use.
Thank you for spending the time while you were planting to explain the important details.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I got a fig tree at Lowe's and planted it in the front yard, it seems to be doing very well. I live in C. NC. My front yard gets really good sun and there's good drainage. We have alot of sandy soil here and clay. It seems to be doing really well in the spot I selected. We shall see how it grows!
My sister who lived in the north east of England had a fig tree from a very small seedling. It grew into a very large tree in a small garden. She never gave it any fertiliser or looked after it in any particular way.
Did it fruit for her? Often, growers in the UK struggle with ripening figs because they require a lengthy warm season to ripen. Maybe they ate the brebas?
She did get lots of fruit but unfortunately they didn’t ripen. As you say it’s because we don’t get enough sun and it was a shame.
Thank you very much for the valuable information. I love the feeling of being "Set Up For Success" by your videos which in turn makes me more willing to try growing these awesome trees. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome! I'm happy to help. Thank you for watching.
Another great video. Thanks for explaining everything so clearly
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped.
What a great video!
Now I know that I didn’t miss one single mistake. 😬 Despite of that my brave beloved fig tree gave me some figs in its second year. Well. Now I can try to improve the situation. Thanks a lot for your great advice!
Dude you are straight to the point, provide excellent tips, very professional and amazing video. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Thank you! That really means a lot to me. I'm glad you enjoy the content.
My fig had to be planted 1 yr after purchase. Zone 8B now, planted when we were still 7B. It grows vigorously every year, and is 10ft tall now. Pruning and feeding are key to good vegatative growth that supports heavy fruit production without bending or breaking. Our friend has one 45y/o and Ive Never seen one that large. It has to be 20ft tall and 15ft wide. Gorgeous. His elevation higher, but same weather normally, slightly cooler (8a)
It's bad heat here in Metro Manila with 42°C or higher, thus I irrigate well my 2 children figs in their pots located at the house rooftop. Though it is down to less than 40°C now that it's May but I am consistent in well-watering. The leaves are upright and proud. I bought a 10-liter drum to have these 2 babies be transferred in June when rain becomes an ally to their futther growth. I just regret that earlier on, I should have started growing "this fruit of God' but perhaps this is readying up for the great-grandchildren to enjoy the blessings. I will follow what you instruct here.❤Thanks huge.
Use human urine and the leaves and the left over fruit in a bucket of water. Let it age and water the figs with it for fertilizer
Great video. My figs got wrecked here in San Antonio during our crazy freeze. They are back with a vengeance!
I can’t wait to see both our results!
We had a very, very late hard freeze on April 3. At the time, they all had 6-8 inches of new growth. I think this late hard freeze did more damage than the crazy Texas freeze. They are still all black. Almost no activity. Usually by now they’re at least a foot tall. I think my in-ground season is over before it started. At least the containers are going well 😞
@@TheMillennialGardener hold strong, mine took weeks to come back. Mine were doing fine as we normally don’t have any type of freeze damage. I covered them but to no luck. All above ground plant structure died. I thought they were toast. They are coming back from the roots vigorously. Almost to the point I think it might have been beneficial. I hope yours come back too!
@@ryanrex297 the problem is it's two very different things. When you guys got that awful freeze, I'm guessing it killed a ton of dormant wood, right? Perhaps the trees got killed to the roots? While it totally stinks to lose so much wood, the trees will come back from the roots, or from the nearest live node. My situation is a little different. The trees had already woken up and every node budded out already. Once the late hard freeze came, it destroyed the buds on every node because they were already awake. The hardwood is fine on the tree, but the buds were killed. Now, I have to wake for every single node to abort the failed bud and create a new bud. It's taking forever. A couple of them are actually sending shoots from the roots that are actively growing, but the buds are barely budging. It's bizarre watching them try to make new buds at the nodes while aborting the existing buds. I've never had to deal with this before.
I see. So it is a bit different. My trees still had leaves though they were mature from the summer before. If it weren’t for that snow storm I would likely have had leaves going into spring as we had yet to have any real sub 32 temperatures. I did loose everything above ground however. Only the tiger panache is shooting new growth from old wood. I had everything covered but put all my heating resources into the avocados, and they did make it through. What a weird year for weather!
Fabulous instruction- precise and to the point! I have just watched 2 of your videos and I must say it is super to see a video that has no waffling and also all the instruction that one needs to succeed. THANKS A LOT!
Thank you. I'm glad you're finding them helpful!
I fully agree with you about the fig tree..
Thanks for watching!
Sandy, loamy soil. That explains the great fig trees in S. Alabama. My granddaddy had one that we climbed to pick figs. We'd hang a bucket on a limb & pick away.
The key is a lot of organic matter and room for their roots to run. Figs are extremely heavy feeders. The South has some really old fig trees. I wonder what variety it was?
@@TheMillennialGardener Wish I could tell you but it's no longer there. But, thanks for the info since I've struggled to have decent figs in the rocky, clay soil where I live now. Gonna work on them.
The best, most detailed fig tree tutorial!👏👏👏 THANK YOU!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for showing these things.
Thanks for watching!
1) When you use the bone meal, do you have experience with Dale trying to eat it? 2) This AWD segment is the funniest one you've posted. Poor Dale looks like he wants to take out your kneecap for laughing at him as soon as he gets out of that tub. Very helpful video! Thanks!
He used to obsess over the bone meal and fish emulsion when we first got Dale last year. He would try to eat out of my containers and I'd have to yell at him and chase him away. He doesn't try to eat it anymore, but he's still obsessed with the smell. As soon as it comes out, he runs over to give the bags a thorough inspection.
Dale is a good boy. He is not thrilled with the bath process itself, but he sits there and takes it. However, when he's done, he feels SO GOOD. He does laps around the yard to air-dry and then he usually takes a nap because he feels so much better. He gets a bath once every 2 weeks. I am allergic to dogs, actually, and bathing him every 2 weeks has kept me pretty problem-free.
@@TheMillennialGardener That's too bad about your allergy. You and Dale have such a good relationship. He seems a completely happy dog, and he's very handsome. Introducing him into your videos was a wise move, IMHO.
I have not really been a fertilizer practitioner in my previous live, but I've practiced 10-10-10 slow release and fish emulsion with Miracle Grow All purpose for immediate feeding as you suggested and my 10" Christmas time fig starts are all 6-7 feet tall now with base stem 1 to 1.5 " in diameter. Desert Kings have 8-10 fruit each and Violet De-Bordeaux have about 3-4 fruits. I've been taking off all new fruit buds since July 1st, hoping to get the existing fruit to maturity quicker. Topping off the trees did not slow them down. They released new leaders that are reaching for the sky. I am Seattle, 8B zone.
That sounds like a lot of growth for Seattle. I know the cool summers can be quite the challenge for figs. Figs are voracious feeders, and proper fertilizing is extremely beneficial in my experience.
I’m so glad I found your videos on transplanting fig trees. I grew up eating from a huge fig tree in our backyard. I’ve recently seen two fig trees growing in yards without raised beds and they are also doing great. Our fig tree didn’t have a raised bed either and it was huge with huge leaves and big delicious figs. I’m adult now and nearly 60 years old, I’m happy to say. This will be my first time actually planting fig trees so I’ll follow your recommendations on planting my two trees. I wish to have great success with them. This makes so much sense, but I do plan to plant them further away from the privacy fence so that I can walk completely around them to harvest figs from them. I plan to get a couple more of different varieties to grow along with them. Thank you for sharing your knowledge about fig trees.
Do you also have videos on the health benefits of eating figs? I think that information is also very important and will encourage more people to plant and grow fig trees.
Again, thank you so much.
Thank you. I’m glad you are enjoying the videos. The benefit of placing your fig trees in a raised bed helps when they’re young. When the trees are new transplants, they like to send out surface roots, so transplanting new figs into ground elevated a few inches helps them get a head start. Once they establish, though, it no longer matters as long as your soil has good drainage. A well-established tree won’t matter either way. It’s just a good trick to get them growing faster when they’re small.
I do not have a video on the health benefits of figs. However, I am of the belief that most of our sicknesses today come from eating processed foods and “industrial food-like substances” like Poptarts, cereal, chips, etc. I believe that it isn’t worth arguing over the health benefits of foods that we grow in our garden because it is all “real food” and healthy. As long as you don’t have a reason why you can’t have natural sugar (like diabetes), figs are a wonderfully healthy food. Ya know, as long as you don’t completely overeat them all the time. Too much of anything is, well, too much!
@@TheMillennialGardener
Thank you so much for your reply to my comment. What’s your favorite large sweet fig?
@@TheMillennialGardener
Oh yes… I live in Georgia. Just past Savannah, before you get to Jacksonville Florida. I plant in raised beds, large pots, and grow bags because I would have to heavily amend the soil in my backyard. I do plan to put my fig trees in the ground with a raised bed around them.
QUESTION: Is it best to transplant them to 5 gallon buckets for a while before transplanting them to the ground?
Thank you for your response.
I also think canning is a great idea when you have too many, they are delicious and you can have them all year around. You canned them in a lite syrup. The syrup turns to a wine color and looks beautiful. Try it. Thanks for all your wonderful information
Thank you so much for this video... I tried planting one of my fig trees in ground a few years ago and it thrived all that summer, grew several feet but then winter came, and I think I smothered it to death trying to protect it.... One thing I think I did wrong is that I planted a very young plant... so it's root system just couldn't survive the winter... I'm in zone 7 in southern Missouri and my potted figs do quite well here because I over winter them in the barn but I really want to plant some in ground figs and I have the perfect spot next to a south facing rock wall... I am going to give it another try now...
Great info, thanks! You may want to check to see if your county has free wood chips/mulch. Where I live there’s a mountain of it for anyone to take what they want for free. I load several larger totes into the bed of the SUV and use a small tote to fill the totes in place so I never have to lift a heavy tote by myself. I use a pick rake which works much better than a shovel to get the mulch into the small tote which I can easily carry, then dump several into the large totes. When I get home my husband helps me get the totes out. And lol, whenever I buy bagged cow manure compost or soil, I reuse those bags by cutting them across the top right next to the seal with a sharp razor. They are great “free” heavy duty “contractor” trash bags. I hate paying for bags of I don’t have to because they are so expensive.
Coffee has a pH of about 5. Used coffee grounds are only slightly acidic at about 6.5. You can acidify soil with sulfur, you just have to use the right amount.
Fig trees propagate super easy, don't need to do much of anything other then cut a branch with at least 8 healthy leaves and stick it straight in the ground and keep it watered and it will grow its own roots without rooting hormone or grafting. Do this during time of year when the air is slightly damp and cool so the leaves live long enough for new growth to show. Sometimes the leaves die, but the plant is still growing. Just test plant by bending it, if it's super flexible it'd still alive. Keep it well watered (over watered is better than under watered till it has at least 2 new sets of leaves grown). You can literally cut the top off each of your plants and just shove it in the ground in between your other plants and do nothing else special with them and they will grow. Also, You are going to destroy your fence with the soil being up against it. Gonna rot away the entire bottom and all the support beams in ground...
I have two fig trees. I didn't get some fruits last year and with your tips that I will apply then maybe I will get more fruits this year. Thanks for your videos. You're so well experience! 😂
You inspired me to think about getting a fig tree for my backyard 🙂
Excellent! They are my favorite fruit trees to grow!
One, you have good soil. Two, you have a high water table. Hard clay soil...nothing can grow in it, need water constantly. No humidity, or rain...so trying pots. If we leave any roots exposed the trees stress, dry out in hrs. Seriously sick area to grow anything. :/
Bought a fig from nursery like 6yrs ago & still nothing. Rooted a broken branch 2yrs ago from same fig & getting 3 figs...fingers crossed.
But figs are worth it.
My soil is pretty good in terms of its ability to drain. However, having sandy soil has its own challenges due to nematode problems, lack of organic matter and nutrients, pathogenic bacteria, etc. It's not all sunshine and rainbows, for sure. Then, we have to get into my miserable climate for ripening figs with the near-daily afternoon thunderstorms and 70% afternoon humidity. It can get pretty nasty, here.
Hard clay soil isn't necessarily bad, because you can transform it. Hard clay soil is packed with nutrients. You just have to transform the soil so you can tap into that nutrient store. You can do this by:
1. Aggressively tilling in compost into the first 6-12 inches over several passes.
2. Build a big compost berm that's 12+ inches tall.
3. Aggressively mulch the berm with arborist wood chips or lots of hardwood mulch.
Plant your trees in this giant compost berm with tilled soil underneath it. Run drip irrigation to the berm. Always amend the berm annually with some fresh compost and mulch. Always maintain a 3-4 inch mulch layer at all times of year. I did something like this with my blackberries. You can see the big berm I built here: czcams.com/video/hj1PW9Yo9pk/video.html
If you are willing to build infrastructure like this, you can dominate in your dry climate. Figs love, love, love hot dry weather, so a compost berm on drip irrigation in an arid climate can produce some world-class figs. If you're willing to put in the effort, your figs will blow my figs away in my humid, soupy climate.
Thanks a lot for all your videos .
Finally I have growing a fig tree ,it is beautiful.
I was trying many times but I couldn't always they die..now thanks to you I'm very happy .
Thanks again.
Excellent! I'm glad you find the videos helpful. Thank you for watching!
I have fig trees emerge on my property all on their own! Basically weeds! One appeared in the middle of our new vacant paddock one day, I transplanted it to a new location, which became our orchard! (We live in an old orchard farming area - the parrots eat the fruit and poop the seeds elsewhere)
my mom has a dog tree that is over 40 years old. she got it as a cutting from her neighbor who brought a cutting with him from itialy. she often gets 2 separate crops of figs each year. they start off green and turn yellow when ripe. they are super sweet. no special care is given to the tree.
I have a fig tree purchased 2019!.
I2019 I collected 38 figs off of the “MISS FIGGY) fromHome Depot in the summer of 2019
Kept it in the pot, but will plant this year..
Thank you for the great informationon planting fig tree.
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your tree! Hopefully you get even more this year.
Could you tell me about your experience with your Miss Figgy? Flavor, growth, etc? Also how big was it when you bought the tree? I just purchased one earlier this year and was wondering what I can expect since it's my first fig tree. Thank you!
@@ts9658
Miss Figgy is delicious .
Semi sweet
External Color is pale green.
Internal Color is similar to a fresh peach.
Taste redeemable a fresh peach and a mango, it’s very good.
Size of a medium: large walnut.
I fertilize with compost tea .
This was my first taste of a fig and it was very good as older people said it was.
I am excited to taste other figs.
@@lanettelawrence6308 sounds good thank you!
I've planting common figs for only around 10 mos in a 6gal plastic pot but it needs constant watering especially when its starts fruiting or else it would abort its fruits if not watered for only 2days but when it rains heavy I usually dont water them, it fruits non stop, its on third batch of fruiting now, by the way I use coco coir mixed with compost instead of soil, find it better for I dont have to water them regularly/daily and compared to soil planted ones they are bigger
Hi
Thank you
Here in Puerto Rico, I am planting figs at grown level to better help protect the trees from toppling over in high winds and hurricanes
I think given your location, they'll do well espalier. You can see how I grow mine here: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFlbg2ri_7gCJPhXaZ_nOvy.html
This keeps them very low and compact.
You do produce excellent and VERY informative videos! I appreciate you going above and beyond compared to some others--you got a new subscriber here.Thank you!
LOVE your dog!! what a good looking dog and seems to be well trained too!!!
Thanks for subscribing! I appreciate it!
Yes coffee grinds acidify the soil, improve drainage, water retention, and aeration in the soil.
Now for the not so good: Adding coffee grounds to your garden is the last thing you want to do. A 2016 study in the journal Urban Forestry & Urban Greening said it all in the title: "Applying spent coffee grounds directly to urban agriculture soils greatly reduces plant growth." Plants that produce caffine do so for a purpose, that purpose is competition: Caffine kills off any competing plants in the surrounding area. Another study inadvertently found that compost spiked with coffee grounds kills earthworms and helpful bacteria.
You are the most amazing fig growing educator, so glad I found your channel. Subscribed. Thanks.
Thank you! I'm glad to hear the videos are helping you!
I believe and have experience of fig tree trunks rooting between nodes.
While rooting fig cuttings, I used to make a longitudinal slit in the bark at the bottom end of the cutting and used to observe bunch of roots in the slit between the nodes.
Figs can root through the cambium. Some people do scrape away the outer layer of bark to expose the cambium for more rooting. The problem with this method is it opens cuttings up to bacteria and fungi entering them and rotting them more quickly, so you need to have all the rooting conditions right because they may become more susceptible to rot. Once they root and you plant them, though, I advocate for planting them high.
I live in the High Desert of Cali. I have 15 fig trees, all different varieties. I have never done anything special. I put them in the ground, I water them once or twice a week. No fertilizer, no amendments in the soil. I get huge crops. None of mine are grafted. They are under 90% shade sails. I usually cut them back in the early spring - doing half the tree each year so it is always bearing. All of my figs are double harvest as we have a long season here. Figs are my favorite too!
You very well may live in a location that colonizes the fig wasp. I am 3,000 miles away from the nearest fig wasp in the exact opposite rainfall pattern as a Mediterranean climate, growing on low-nutrient sand, so my environment couldn't be more opposite than the native land of figs. You live in nearly ideal fig-growing conditions. I would invite you to experiment with fertilizing via drip irrigation, given your climate. You may be surprised how much you can improve yields. They react really well to phosphorous, especially this time of year.
You don't need to do anything to any crop in Cali just because the climate and the soil are so good there. Trust me it's very different here in NC with all that rain, pests, fungus, clay soil and so on
I'm in Northern NJ. Because my soil is terrible rocky, brick/glass infested soil is so terrible, I've created square beds & used a mix of bagged premium soil, peat moss & cleaned/screened dirt from my yard. Would you suggest adding a bit of sand to the soil in or around the beds to create a more loamy soil? Thanks. Your videos are excellent, well produced & packed with great info that you have tested yourself. Thanks for being a great source of good info.
This video really helped me to understand what my fig tree needs, thank you.
You're welcome!
A good teacher makes hard things simple to understand. Well done!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
Incorporate some Blackmax 22 into your fertility program. You won’t be disappointed. Helps the light soils hang onto nutrients.
I look at a video of proper planting, then look at the one we have here, very damp clay loam soil and the thing won't stop growing.
The only tips I have, is 1) always leave the leaves when they drop around the tree and 2) during winter if you have a growing season, plant a pea (snow pea, sugar snap etc) around the base. I plant a ton of peas around all my deciduous trees during winter.
What's the reason for #2. Are they nitrogen fixers?
Beautiful
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful job!... Keep rollin'!...👏👍🔥
I love that you broke up the video into labeled chunks! Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful! I try and tag all my videos with chapters these days.
So organized and by the book grower❤❤❤
Certainly helpful. I have work to do to help my one poor fig (Olympus) which hasn't had fruit since I planted it 3 yrs ago. Think I'll order a couple more fig trees
what a nice job! and super inexpensive mulch. i never spend on trash bags cus I shake out, fols up & save all from products. they are strong enough to not be torn open by rodents or birds.
Good information. Well presented.
I had almost no figs last year. Hope these tips will bring on these fruit.
Thanks!
I recommend following my fig fertilizing guide to assist with productivity as well: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
Great video, I’m cancelling my colored mulch order! You are going to have lots of great figs! Thanks for sharing the video
I'm glad to hear that! That dyed mulch is usually crushed up pallets and junk lumber, which is why it's cheaper than natural mulches. You don't really want that mulch in your garden. If you can find a local landscaping place that delivers mulch, you can get better quality stuff that's natural for similar pricing and support a little guy. If you have a pick-up truck, your local county transfer station often gives away FREE mulch from tree trimming, too, so it's worth checking your county's website.
Cannot say enough of the good thing about your video. Lots of info with details. I have few fig trees in the pot - wish had enough ground space so I could use your technics.
Thanks for watching! I lived most of my life in urban areas where land was scarce. I moved to a more rural area to get some more land to do this 😅 If you ever desire more land, the edible landscaping is the way to go in my opinion.
Because of where I live in Southern California in 55+ community, we aren’t allowed to plant any fruiting tree in the ground. I rescued a volunteer fig tree and put it in a pot in my personal garden space (also “illegal”!). It’s refreshing to see someone with such a great attitude and desire to grow an edible landscape. Great video! Love your straightforward approach and clear instructions! Thank you!
you are the reason i am getting the tree today!
Outstanding! I'm so happy to hear that. Hoping you have many years of bountiful harvests. If you need help fertilizing, I have a series on how to do that here: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks!!!!!! you have a new subscriber
Very well described and planted. Thankyou from Australia.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great teacher! I am so happy I found you. God bless
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it.
good advice. Sorry he did not put a moisture burrier along the fence. Each watering will help rot the fence a little faster than necessary. Possibly not a big problem.
The fence is ground contact rated pressure treated wood.
Some of my go to TW songs: Animosity, Choke, Ugh, Queen of the murder Scene, Evolve, HYCAD, Dull Knives, When I'm Alone, Automatic Sun and many others.
Very helpful information,thanks a lot my friend .I never plant fig before but your knowledge motivated me and i'll have a go about it.
I'm happy to hear that! Figs are very rewarding. They're fun to grow and fruit quickly. Just make sure you fertilize them a lot, because they require a lot of fertilizer. This video series can help you be successful: czcams.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
Thanks for sharing I was lucky I didn't know anything about figs tree , we planted one about 10 years ago, never have need it to put fertilized / compost IO get a lot of fruits every year, more than what can we eat, but this tree put big branches every year you are going to need to prune a lot of those when they get older.. If I ever plant an other fig I would place it about 12 to 15 feet apart in the ground.
The trees are hard pruned annually. You can see how I grow them here: czcams.com/video/gvY8PCnWgjM/video.html
I LOVE FIGS! I will do this one day! Thank you so much for this valuable information. Awesome video. Liked and subbed! 😊
You're welcome! Thanks for subscribing!
Thanks for the very informative video! Just in time cause I’m planting some special varieties in ground this year.
Excellent! Glad I could provide timely assistance.
From my experience these tree grow without any attention, the only attention is when they are young and in the winter is cold less than -5° you would want to protect them the first years. But after it grows and it starts to get limnified they are fine. Ofc if you give them optimal terrain, compost, ambient, position etc they will grow way faster. But standard they are not a pretentios plant
Thanks for important information!
Outstanding. Very professional.
I thought this video was going to be really stupid but I really enjoyed it. Thank you and make more :)
Nice work on demonstrating to achieve maximum figs keeping in mind some trees 🌲 I have seen only 5” feet but Damm 400 plus fig’s each branch 50 plus don’t no the name of the tree 🌲 but I took 20 cutting and 90 percent strike very happy 😃 chappy 🙏🏼💪🙏🏼🌲🌲plus I crafted it onto a black mission and it’s taken hold 🖖🌲🖖the fig is bright green and a little bend in middle
Figs, when planted in-ground properly and once well-established, can fruit profusely. Especially in their ideal climate like you'll find in areas of California. Getting them to fruit heavily when young is more of a technique the gardener must perfect. I can't wait until these trees are mature.
Thanks so much for your instruction. I just listened to an IV Organics video where they were saying that you shouldn't mix in a lot of organic material to your soil. But that the organic matter sits on the top in the forest and the tree doesn't like living in it because it's rotting. So I'm happy to hear this instruction which helps cement the other instruction. I will start putting my organic material on the top, so The Roots don't get crushed as it decomposes. My only questions are, will the soil get warm enough in the summer and will it hold in too much moisture in the fall when it rains a lot in the Pacific Northwest if you top with mulch?
I believe it's true that you shouldn't place a lot of organic matter underneath the root ball. The taproot should be growing through real dirt. A lot of taproots don't like decomposition or standing moisture. However, backfill around the top several inches of the root ball is a different story. In my experience, trees love sending "feeder roots" through the first few inches of soil, and those feeder roots search out moisture and nutrients. Therefore, a rich layer of organic matter is key. Similar to what you said, in forests, the top foot or so of ground is actually a constantly decaying organic matter: leaves, pine needles, bark, fallen branches, etc. It's how forests "feed themselves" in a sustainable cycle, so I try and emulate that under my trees. I want the top 4-6 inches or so to be a constantly decaying mix of organic matter. I prefer cow manure compost and hardwood bark mulch due to availability, but chopped leaves is great, too.
I don't know exactly how a thick mulch layer will affect your heat in your climate. I'm just about as far southeast in North Carolina as you can get, so our summers are intensely hot and humid. I can't say if mulch will make your roots too cool. You'd have to experiment and try "with" on some trees and "without" on others and perform an analysis. You may be able to get away with just a good, black layer of compost and that can be your "mulch," and the black attracts heat.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for your reply, I think the compost would probably be enough in our climate in the summer and then I would probably just mulch in the winter. But I will try the experiment also, thanks.
Good luck!
Now I must redo my one and only fig tree to promote surface roots!
As long as it isn't too late and well-established. If it's well-established, I'm sure it has plenty of surface roots.
this is so helpful, thanks for the great tips!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Hello J , how are you doing today...?
My bareroot fig from Lowes did amazing in its first year then i moved it to a permanent position in a planter but then the sand i used for drainage wasnt sand but clay with sand and blocked drainage n almost killed it, i corrected in time and its doing well again.
My soil is base clay with zero percolation. I have to use raised beds and an elaborate runoff sump with a pump that reuses that water out to another section of the garden.
Good job. Very thorough. I enjoyed it. Thank you.
I love how detailed your videos are! Not only do you include all the important points, but provide visuals on what you’re talking about as well.
Thank you! I try to storyboard them a bit so they make sense. I appreciate your support!
Nice, makes sense. You basically set the tree up for a nice root flare. What is the best variety for zone 6-7?
You are a gifted teacher!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the care tips
You are so thorough and informative!!! Thank you thank you!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Sorry to hear about your figs getting hit by a late freeze. My fig trees were still dormant when Texas got it's hard freeze. While some of the wood was killed, not all of it was. I can only surmise from the somewhat random spots that got affected that the tree was just starting to come out of dormancy when the freeze hit which sort of makes sense from my experience. As a result, it knocked back my fig trees at least a month from their normal timing of emerging from dormancy. And, boy howdy, am I grateful that they were still dormant. Also, I don't expect to get a breba crop this year. I know people say it's not as good as the main crop, but I disagree. Also, freezes like this are ironically nature's way of pruning which I am terrible at doing.
I've experienced both cold damage and a late freeze now, and I think the late freezes are even worse. Last year, I had 3 trees take some cold damage and I had to sever the dieback. However, they still leafed out at about the same time as the undamaged trees. They had to grow back more, so they were a little behind, but I did get fruit off of them. It was just behind schedule. This late freeze was a disaster. The trees still are barely moving. They had to abort the old buds and push them out with new green buds, so they're finally starting to show signs of life. My trees that got hit were further along than this on March 1, so it looks like this cost me at least 60 days of progress. It seems we can't catch a break. Now, there is going to be another cold air outbreak Wednesday night and Thursday night. Keep an eye out. Most of Texas is going to take a frost, as is most of the Carolinas. I'm hoping my proximity to the ocean protects me, but the inland counties are already under a frost watch. It just won't end, it seems. Again, our usual last frost is the 3rd or 4th week of March 😰
@@TheMillennialGardener This is definitely crazy weather. I have a relative in Kansas City who is an avid gardener. I remember asking what their latest frost is, and I remember her saying May 1. I didn't believe her. This year has made me a believer. I live far enough south that we aren't getting anywhere close to freezing temps again, just lows in the mid-40s with daytime highs in the 70s. In fact, it is our sub-tropical climate that led me to planting fig trees because my real love is cherries, but it just isn't cold enough here. But at the same time really too cold for citrus. Yet, despite all the cold this winter, my in-ground pineapples survived while my peach tree is starting completely over. I hope your trees make it.
Wonderful video! Thank you!
I live in central Florida and I've got an in-ground fig that's about 15 years old. It used to bear 100 figs a year but then it had some health issues, and by last year the yield had dwindled to around ten figs. I've been babying it since last summer and it is now lush with leaves and has around 10 breba fruits on it. It really hasn't looked this good in years. I'm wondering if a small breba crop predicts a small main crop?