1890s Sleeves are Deliciously Extra. But HOW Extra? || Making a Victorian Velvet Coat
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- čas přidán 1. 09. 2022
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It's that time. The sleeves are now unavoidable. This month I'll show you how I've patterned and mocked up the sleeves for my fabulously over-the-top Victorian velvet coat.
Follow my sister Rose for art and puppetry here:
/ @artymous6140
** Music **
'Rotation Begins' by Arthur Benson
'As History Unfolds' by Christoffer Moe Ditlevsen
'We Are Giants' by Silver Maple
'Let There Be Rain' by Silver Maple
'Chapters' by Aerian
'Faith' by Million Eyes
'Duo Voces' by Gavin Luke
'The Twelve Spies' by Silver Maple
'The Best Way Out Is Through' by Trevor Kowalski
'Himalayan Moon' by Aerian
'Muddy Waters' by Gavin Luke
(all from Epidemic Sound)
Edited by Sophie Black at @triskellepictures
/ @triskellepicturesuk
You can also follow me and see my own sewing on Instagram:
/ cathy.hay
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Anyone else get so happy when you see Cathy get the giddy smile of “look, it worked!”? I know that feeling oh so well and it’s fun watching someone else experience the same feeling!
I was about to write almost the exact same comment. You can read success on her face, and you can't help but smile with her!
Me too... It's a wonderful feeling when you get something right, whatever it is. I might be working from commercially made patterns (Truly Victorian, et al), but the amount of fitting you have to do, I feel, gives the same sort of triumphant satisfaction as completely drafting yourself. I'm stoked for Cathy especially after the previous debacle. Good on her!
Absolutely grinning in solidarity 😁 x
It's going to be spectacular !! ✨️
Well done Cathy you’ve nailed it! But I think you know that? 😀 those sleeves look well in proportion to me, I would imagine the embroidery will take them down a little anyway? Good luck with the next stage look forward to seeing it.
Ah, yes, the obligatory flouncing about in the completed mockup. A time-honored tradition :) in all seriousness, that gave me SUCH a happy feeling.
"This longcoat is finished, I must now swoosh!" I love it! You go swoosh that coat! Also those sleeves: for sure the original sleeves are drooping after 100 years. I don't know much about fabric but I'm pretty sure that velvet is prone to drooping, and even if not after 100 years I don't expect anything to not be sagging at least a little.
I finally picked back up a lap blanket that's been in the work for years: crocheting fibonacci sequence squares and sewing them together to make a big spiral. Hopefully it'll be done soon and I can enjoy my unicorn colored mathematical lap blanket.
I love your concept! Thank you for sharing it!
Oh that sounds quite interesting!
The sleeve puff looks right to me. Taking into account that the velvet will weigh it down more and be less stiff, I think it will look more accurate with the correct fabrics.
If she's using historical velvet then it may actually be more stiff. Modern velvet has a much looser weave compared to historical velvet.
I've been staring at a photo of that coat for over a decade, wanting to make it but not sure I had the skills to do it. Watching you, I'm learning what I need to improve on before I attempt it instead of just thinking "I could never..." Thank you!
I believe in you!!
Yay! You can do it!
There's your project!
You can absolutely do this! And remember, you don't need to do it like mine. Take what you need, leave what doesn't interest you, and make YOUR coat!
I don't think I've said this before, but your videos are so incredibly calming. I know very few people in real life who do sewing/historical costuming/dressmaking, and those I know generally prefer simple projects where you can buy instructions. Not that those works are not valuable. Just that it could be very lonely when you are trying to tackle a challenge and no one understands why you are 'wasting' your time on it.
I hear you. I am sewing a Bernadette banner pirate shirt by hand. Ex hubby's response was 'I'm not being rude, but why?'.I made the arm gussets too small and put it aside for weeks coz I don't want to undo that hard earned stitching.
Absolutely love the joy on your face when the sleeves worked out relatively quickly and simply. Looking forward to seeing you in the finished coat.
The collar is giving me Timelord council, and if anyone looks like a time travelling historian right now, it’s Cathy Hay.
This is now my birthday gift!!! I can't wait! I will watch and eat glorious cake 🎂
Happy Birthday tomorrow Amy!
@@CathyHay best gift ever thank you x
After the issues with the Peacock dress it was lovely to see you so happy and excited about this replacement project - it actually brought tears to my eyes.
Can't wait for the completed garment - thank you Cathy.
Ya know, Ms. Cathy, your joy in your work just heals my soul. I am really trying to stay off the horrible news and seeing your happiness at something as 'simple' as getting an arm cap 'right' for you just makes my day. God love you, lady, for sharing your passion and for the important work you do of preserving these well-loved garments. You are a star!!!
First, your joy at what you have done comes across so well. It made me smile. I haven't done garment work in eons, but.. from the pictures it looked as if the darts were basically the same length as the "wheat" stalk at the top of the flower. the stalk stopped before the end of the dart but then the dart had the seam involved. Could that be another way to size the length of the dart? I love this coat but I think I'll stick to self-designed quilts for now! No sleeves to set it! LOL
I was honestly not into this coat when you picked it, but I've kept watching because I love the process and the way you talk about it and the lovely contemplative style of your videos. I am finally officially sold - seeing you prance around in the mockup brings it to life in a whole new way. I can't wait to see this progress!
The look of pure GLEE on your face when trying on the sleeves and collar is highly contagious !
I think the mock up looks absolutely incredible!. The part where you added the sleeve and collar to the outfit you were wearing literally made it into a whole other outfit and then when the body of the coat was added and the outdoor playtime and spinning in the yard was stunning! I can't wait for the next half of this sewing adventure!
The absolute JOY on your face when you were wearing the mockup was a thing of beauty! Thank you for spreading that joy with all of us!
Love your new garden even though the terrace needs a good pressure wash but still it has that secret garden vib! That plus the delightful coat and the glimpses of your sister and decorating and that made and extra wonderful video! Thank you. Take care. X
Watching you put your new sewing room together, reminded me of Virginia Woolf's essay, 'A Room of One's Own'.
The jacket swooshing! I think that's always my favorite part of a project (with a long enough skirt to do so) when it gets to the point it's together enough that you just can't help but swoosh and twirl like your five years old in your first princess dress. I love it! It's looking beautiful, Cathy! I can't wait to see the next steps.
Cathy, I so love your videos. You are the master of Victorian era garments! Your process realistically shows the adjustments along the way. Can't wait to see the gorgeous velvet work of art in all its glory! Btw I love love love the soothing green wall paint. Your studio looks fabulous!
I know it’s “just a mock up” but it’s beautiful like that can’t wait for the actual coat!
The sleeves look right from here. Observation: delight looks good on you.
Puffed sleeves were a fashion statement back in the late 60s/early 70s. I sewed most of my school dresses/tops and nearly all had puffed sleeves. As many sets as I installed, each was a challenge. I can't wait to see Cathy's finished, generously sleeved coat!
I've been waiting for your next video on the velvet coat so enthusiastically, I am so happy that it's finally here! I love this project so much. Thank you for bringing us all this beauty, Cathy!
Kudos Cathy for all the camera work! It made a fantastic foundation for the chef's kiss edit by Sophie. Think it's my favorite video so far on the channel for that reason.
Thank you for your lovely comment! Glad you enjoyed the video.
I love that smile when you looked in the mirror. "By George, I think she's got it!"
Ohhh ... the smile on your face when those sleeves went in was a thing of Beauty. 💐 I know just how that feels. The end of frustration & anxiety ... just the Pure bliss of accomplishment. How very satisfying to watch your vlogs & witness that elation on your face is very happy making for me ...
Thank you Kathy 💕
Oh Cathy…. The smile on your face brings my heart JOY! I in the middle of dark times and your videos bring some light to the dark times.
You are absolutely INCREDIBLE! I love your work and what you do is so inspiring. I’ve been wanting to make a really dramatic jacket like this but with a pagoda shoulder and have been quite stumped, mainly because I want to have a really long train similar to the dress that Blake lively wore to the Met Gala in 2018. So seeing videos like this is helping my understand more. I could use techniques that you used but just make the back longer. Great help. Thank you. ❤️❤️
I cannot be the only one who would love a library and "pattern weight" book tour!
OMG. I don't think I've EVERY seen you look so happy! Hold onto that memory!
The sleeve puf looks absolutely stunning - keep it!
Just watched the video and I vote the sleeves are "Practically puffy (and perfect) in every way!" I also smiled when I saw the paint color of your new sewing room. It is nearly (at least in video) the same color I just painted my walls in my new home after a four month move! Truly a "fresh" start :)
Your Joy is infectious with your giddy smile and flouncing around ! Warms my depressed dead heart 🖤 Thank you Kathy for a soft landing spot to enjoy
When you feel pleased about your plan coming together, you look so beautiful! This coat will be so wondrous!
Your room is beautiful. I love the white and green.
Yay! So excited!
Love the new office color! Beautiful work space and fun to see you thought process with the pattern!
I think the mock-up is beautiful, I can’t wait to see the final garment. It would make a beautiful coat for a winter bride. You’re amazing Cathy!
The mock- up looks and moves beautifully, so pleased you got it right. Looking forward to the next episode. I just made a Prom dress/construction with a short skirt and a tutu-like petticoat to keep it flounced out, teamed with a train inserted into the top skirt, wired around the whole edge so she could bend and shape it the way she wanted it to look. It was mega fun to do and looked fantastic on her Prom day
Sounds fabulous! Well done Erika!
Frolics around the garden gleefully, in her fabulous mock-up. I am going to confess that I paused more than once to try and get a good look at the books on the shelf…
Such a genuine smile of satisfaction when you had the sleeves and collar on dancing a bit
I’m very excited to see the collar come together. I have been playing with the idea of maybe making something with a similar one someday, and I’m very curious to see how the assembly plays out.
You running around in the backyard was so enchanting. So much work went into this project and seeing the fruits of your labor was just spectacular!!
The look of joy when you got that sleeve right, just made my day! I'm currently (hand) sewing my very first chemise, so needless to say the thought of all that geometry and shaping is a bit mind boggling to me. Kudos, and thank you for taking us on this journey of yours!
I do love the white version of the coat, it is a whole new summer outfit that well deserves its own proper making and finishing. just IMHO. overall, my sincere respect to your skills, patience and finished work!
Your little schoolgirl!!!!!
The absolute joy on your face was growing though out the entire video…..
It's looking amazing! Thank you for adding in footage of you frolicking in the mock up
loved to see you BEEMING as you wore the mockup
Good to see you looking so happy and with plenty to smile about- those sleeves look just right to me as velvet will weigh itself down when it softens. Love the collar
You could also look at the size of the embroidered flower in relation to the span across half the back (since there is a flower right there) and compare that to the flower on the sleeve head. Just another data point.
Looking forward to it!
Anticipation!
If you ask me, that siluette is on point! You look like you stepped out of a history book or an old painting.
I LOVE that green in your sewing room. Do you mind sharing the shade and brand? Your room looks stunning!
You are so talented. I am loving how that coat is looking and can't wait to see it finished. It's a joy to see how happy you are too! Great little happy dance. xx
The paint can is shown at 1:19, it's Farrow & Ball Vert De Terre No. 234 in the Estate Emulsion chalky matte finish :)
Love it! And the room looks fab. Sisters are the best
The joy in your face when you went out for a frolic!!! Precious!!!
Wow can't wait to see the finished garment 😍 love the new sewing room, what colour did you use on the wall?
Love to see this coat in a brilliant red with gold embroider 💖💖💖😍
It's Vert de Terre by Fallow & Ball. Thank you!
I always appreciate your wonderful videos. Looking forward to this one too...🤗🌸
I think you underestimate yourself. You DID look closely. You just did not make the connection with the detail until you did it yourself. Bravo!!!! One of Us! One of Us! One of Us!
This is going to look absolutely gorgeous! I've been wondering what type of outfit would be worn with the coat and if you'd consider making something to accompany the coat for a future project?
So sorry Cathy that I have not been watching. I had to a lot of life going on. Within 1 week, I lost my friend (my pet) to cancer of the brain. the next day I started my new job training, and the next day I had to move in with my folks to be their caregiver. All this was very over whelming and stressful. I had no internet till now. I miss all of my favorite CZcams Sewist (you, Bernadette Banner, Custom Drama, and With Wendy). Thank you for having a video that is so soothing with beautiful music, your lovely voice of knowledge and a masterful teachings of the proper old ways of sewing. May ask why you choose Garden Green paint? I have never thought of using green. I always used cream or white.🥰
It was so nice to see you excited and happy! So much hum drum in the world right now, that it’s so refreshing to see you happily in the moment enjoying what you’ve accomplished!
Your filming and music choices are so great! It is just the right mix of story telling and meticulousness.
Thank you! I'll pass your comment on to Sophie the Editor!
I love all the work you do Cathy......you are fabulous!
It looks wonderful. But your smiles and giddy excitement is what I love the best!!
Your mockup looks wonderful. The sleeve caps may not look as full in the picture considering the weight of the velvet and the added weight of the embroidery (?) Calico or muslin has a crisper hand so the cap may stand out more. Best of luck with your project.
Oh but that's so clever - draw up on the fold, cut the large shape, trim down on one side only to the smaller! Of course! I've been dreading having to draw the whole thing up twice. (I do so love a sensible, elegant solution)
the joy in your smile was contagious, thank you
Looks amazing!! The weight of the embroidery on the sleeves will weight them down as well
Oh the joy when a project is coming together is wonderful 🥰🥰🥰
Your smile says it all...pure happiness
Looking forward to GLORIOUS sleeves! ❤️
I agree. In its day, I think the sleeves were more puffy than what it is now - in the museum. I like your mock up. I think your mock up looks lovely and perfect on you. Great work and persistance.
The sleeves look very fine with the collar. It's well proportioned. I can't sew stiches together, but I love watching your videos! It's like watching magic.
I like the sleeves as they are . Puffy is in the eye of the beholder.
Keep the puffiness. What I was most excited about was your smiles and giddiness. Fun to see.
Ms. Cathy, I saw you as a little girl when you first put on the mockup and slid on the sleeves and collar. I can tell you were a beautiful and inquisitive child open to the natural world. And you're just as beautiful now as you were then.
On the sleeves, I'm thinking they were puffy as the sleeves you're making. ...to accommodate that huge flower embroidered right up there on the shoulder.
Thank you for bringing us along on this journey. I'm enjoying watching you and your expressions as much, if not more than, the coat. 🤗
I think the sleeves as you drafted have a distinctly period look. I believe the original sleeves probably were poofier when new. I think you nailed it! I'm thrilled with you. How inspiring.
I like to hear how you reason out the different steps of this huge project. Cute ombre sundress, too!
Wow! I am so excited to see this completed! Love the frivolity, you looked so happy! It is going to be so beautiful when done! Have a lovely weekend!
Oh Cathy! Abounding joy riles the day!
Watching you make this fabulous flowy coat and watching Bernadette remake hers has inspired me to make my own well fitting proper black Victorian coat. I'm not planning on making too much of a statement with the sleeves, but I think the overall silhouette will be stunning. A coat really is enough to give you historical vibes without too much standing out (if you're worried about that sort of thing) 💙💜💙
This is looking absolutely beautiful already! Your happiness while wearing the coat in the garden made me smile too. Thank you for sharing this with us!
You look really happy! Beside the fact that the mock-up was a success. I'm looking forward to the next stage.
Wonderful! I reckon those sleeves are perfect!
I love your attitude and personality I have learnt so much because of your sharing and wise words beautiful lady you are a amazing Soul have a great weekend Cathy
I've been following you for a little while and you are a GEM of a human being. So real, so learned, so enriching. A true researcher. I just wanted to let you know. Hugs from Italy.
The mock up is Beautiful! (I want to tie-die it so badly 😆) I love watching you think 🥰 I cannot Maths but it's such a serotonin boost to see you think through the whole thing.
It makes me happy, to see you happy. :)
Absolutely love this project! Love the way it hangs and flows when you run. Can't wait to see it in velvet.
A contrarian opinion: I think your sleeve cap is larger than the original. To me, the original appears less exaggerated by a solid 3/4 inch at the top. That said, you have a lot more experience with patterning than I do.
Cathy suggests that the sleeve was probably puffier when it was new than it is now (as in photographs). Could that be the difference?
Ecco come una persona riprende da dove ha lasciato dalla vita precedente ed è tutta contenta per avere potuto riprendere il suo percorso.
L'importante è che che non si attacchi ai conseguimenti, ma prosegua nel percorso di bellezza fino ad arrivare oltre il fatto materiale.
I love the way you pranced around the garden, with such a glorious smile 😃
Cathy your delight in the successful mock up is so joyous to watch; it's impossible not to smile!
Loving the progress and looking forward to the fabric sourcing and embroidery planning!
I can't remember how long ago I found your channel and started falling in love with you but I do remember your voice was just above a whisper, sometimes below.... ANYWAY it brings me such joy to hear your voice gradually become louder and stronger and even more beautiful ❤ you're so strong and so smart and I'm always so happy to see your videos pop up whenever they do ❤
I love the addition of the background music to your video editing! So relaxing! You’re crushing it Cathy!
Could you use the size of the embroidery design as a guide to the sleeve fullness and other measurements?
I love your enthusiasm and delight when things come together. I noticed that your hands remind me so much of my grandmother's hands, they were beautiful as are yours. She was a very good armature seamstress who made many of my clothes growing up! Even though I am almost 60 I still have a couple of the outfits and a couple of the quilts that she made for me.
Should be amateur. 🙄
Remarkable! You have such skill and patience, and being with you while you're in the Flow is just a joy. I'm loving experiencing this project with you, Cathy!
Thank you so much Fuller, I'm glad you're here!
It is already beautiful in the mockup. It is going to be stunning in the final piece. The perfect coat to prance about the yard in.
The sleeves look about the right size to me. Without the ones in the original being stuffed it is hard to tell. Have you mashed the ones on the mockup down like the the ones on the original to see if there seems to be a similar amount of wrinkles/fabric?
You have a great workroom setup.I always think I'm the only one that puts books on the shelves wonky and adds display pieces on them. None of my friends do it.