Mine has been running over 3 years in the Vegas desert heat mounted on my engine cover in my van without a fan. It's often well over 130 degrees (F) and a long time before the a/c starts to cool and burning hot to the touch! I do run at low levels driving 4 6x9 speakers. Finally getting ready to relocate it...
Someone intelligent testing this stuff. Thats great. Last guy i watched spent the whole video trying to make sure everyone knew he was too good for the product. Getting 50w per channel and 150w tp a bridged sub for $60 is excellent
YOOO I love this channel, so impressed with your car audio reviews! Basically an engineer that loves car audio. I really wish I thought of this channel, as you have. Would've loved this for my day job instead of my EE job.
For $60 you getting a great little 4 channel amp for the money. Perfect for a guy that wants to get a little more sound out of his mids and highs. We all know how to do the math on the fuses right? What are there 2:30 amp fuses? So that means if it gets 10 volts in it should be putting out 600 watts RMS divided by 4. Should be looking at 150 watts per Channel * 4. Let me test it on my Dino. That would be my ears. Even if it puts out a decent 50 Watts RMS x 4 to get a name brand amplifier for $60 brand new in the box with a warranty you cannot go wrong. Not for pushing subwoofers. Not to entertain the neighborhood. Worth every dime.🙈🙊🙉
@@Qualitymobilevideo ok so i bought the amp and am trying to get 64 watts out of each channel and i hooked my multimeter up to it and was trying to get 32 volts but with the gain all the way up i couldn't get it passed 27.8, am i really going to have to have the gain all the way up
I have this amp in my boats cabin on a 50A inline fuse. I am rewiring the boat and want to put it on a fuse block. What wire gauge and fuse would actually be enough, with 2x speakers 4ohm and 1x 4ohm sub on a 12V?
It’s 1:15 in the AM and I was about to go to sleep when I looked again …have a question why are testing on a 40 hz tone when this isn’t a monoblock and why didn’t you use 1000 Hz am I missing something??? Maybe it would have did more numbers but only interested because I had an offer on ebay but I’m running avatar ABR460.4 and ATU2000.1 upgraded from RE ztx2 800.4 and soundqubed SQ1250.1…… and then I see the 1000 hz test okay had to rewind a bit 🤣🤣😂😂
May I ask you another question? I’m new at this and trying to learn. My question is this. I have a woofer speaker that’s 6x8 mounted. I’m adding a crossover and a tweeter. Will the tweeter receive half the watts? I mean, let’s say I’ve got 100 watts going to a speaker. I add a crossover and a tweeter. Will the woofer get 50 watts and the tweeter 50 watts? I sure as hell hope not but I’m new and when you get a chance respond. Thank you
i have this amp. for price an be bridged for 2 subs at a couple hundred watts each. for 4 channel speakers it sounds worse than aftetmarket pioneer. 4x14w
Damn wish I had all that testing equipment. Not sure where you can get it at Walmart for $60, much higher price online. (Of course this video is 3 years old)
Im still kinda new to this and i have this amp all hooked up n stuff but whats the best settings (on the amp) for bass? I like a lot of bass so what db should i use?
Get a good separate amp for your subwoofer i recomend power acoustik RZR1-2500D on the budget.. make sure you have a good solid subwoofer in a a good sized ported box... thank me later
I did a LONG Term test of this amp. Its still working.. Its STILL working... It works. It works///....shuts down. Overheat. this is the only amplifier that I can say without a doubt requires you to either a live in a polar region or be if you're going to run it at 2 ohms you're going to need one hell of a fan on top of that you're going to also have to install a capacitor directly to the leads to get this thing to actually sound good and dynamic. it's not a bad amplifier and it does sound good but for some reason it's more like listening to a record that it is a CD player or a high-quality digital file. I've tried just about everything I can to eliminate a small little bit of distortion that always seems to be coming out of the amplifier. most of you probably won't notice it and therefore you will be just fine just keep the amp cool and you should be okay but it's definitely not my recommendation for amplifiers
I'm having a hard time understanding what the numbers mean overall. I get ohms law and how that works; I get how to setup gain and match output to the speakers. Even if the wattage was as stated, why would a 1500Watt amp push 300watt over 4 channels? where does that math work out? Given the results, what would the actual output be and how would I match this with my speakers?
@@Qualitymobilevideo I get that. Not my question. Where do any of the numbers come from? Even if it did what they stated, where does 300W RMS over 4 channels equal 1500W RMS? That doesn't math up without either changing the resistance or adding voltage or current to the system from what I can tell. I don't get where the numbers in themselves come from. Does the test conclude that this is a 500W amp or a 300W amp ($65 seems like a good deal for a 500W amp pushing 80W RMS over 4 channels at 4ohms)? Is it supposed to be the total power that can run through the amp before blowing? does it come from pushing +20V through the amp? That is what I am trying to understand with this. I'm fairly new to car stereo equipment and know just enough about electronics to get really confused. I also understand why they would do this. It prevents someone who doesn't know anything about current, impedance, voltage... wiring up something, cranking gain, blowing speakers, then complaining that either the company's amp or speakers are crap and did it. Marketing wise, it's safer than having accurate amp numbers and a faulty amateur install being blamed on the manufacturer. I'd have a real problem with them pricing it with comparable amps and they don't seem to do that. As long as they price in a "get what you pay for," it's about as good as you can expect even if very confusing.
great question...the correct way is take a voltmeter on the speaker +- read say 16.7 volts clean music....(volt x volt)/ ohm = watts....so... 278.89/ 4 ohm speaker = 69.72 watts RMS because the music is "clean".... amps do push more power at 14.4 volts than at 12.60....in time you will learn....
It would be nice if these amp manufacturers would actually care that they were being outed on their claims. And perhaps do something to save what ever reputation they think they have by either not claiming such grandiose numbers, and stating far more accurate information. Or simply building a better amp that has far better output. It's not like the internal components are expensive or anything. Let's face it, they use the cheapest stuff they can to do the job!
what a junk ,,,,almost nothing in the market matches what it says on the box i have a 6.5 inch speaker that is rated for 110 rms @4ohm and i have yet can find a 2 channel that actually delivers that much to the channel , i dont know which one to believe, should i overshoot the target the nail it ?
PLEASE HELP: I have 2 12 inch Rockford Fosgate p3’s (P3D4-12) rated at 600 watts rms at 4 ohms. I have a Rockville dB45 4 channel amp cea rated at 400 watts x2 bridged at 4 ohms. My question is if I wire the subs together in series/parallel wouldn’t that raise my subs rms to 1200 watts at 4 ohms? I want to hook these subs up to my amp but don’t want to blow my amp. I’m pretty sure I’m right and will have to get a more powerful amp but I wanted to ask the pro’s first.
I’ve been looking everywhere for that Rockville DB45. Lol! I don’t think they’re going to make them any more. Anyway, if you’re interested in selling it then send me a message. Thanks
@@Shagfabulous No, nobody runs there amps at 18v xD Car batteries are like 14v MAX. That 18v you see in the video is just the output signal voltage coming out of the amp.
@@Shagfabulous Also If you're looking into getting this amp for all 4 speakers in your car don't do it save up a little bit more for a higher quality one. There's too many cons to beat the cheap price. The wattage they claim is a lie it pushes out 70watts max per channel and if you turn it up too loud it sounds super distorted and 1 of my channels were louder than the others causing 1 speaker to bottom out (Could just be a issue with mine) but I stopped using this amp and went back to my regular radio amp.
Ok, well don't get offended but, can you name and list all the internals? As far as the shielding are you talking about at the RCAs? Or are you talking internally?
@@wadehensley5005 just curious because I've noticed with car audio just like with most other things most people don't have a solid understanding basically they're uninformed consumers(not saying you are), so I'm still trying to learn
![How Much Power Does a $49 4000W Walmart Amp Make? [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yXhIjmdzzZ0/mqdefault.jpg)
![How Much Power Does a $49 4000W Walmart Amp Make? [4K]](/img/tr.png)
Mine has been running over 3 years in the Vegas desert heat mounted on my engine cover in my van without a fan. It's often well over 130 degrees (F) and a long time before the a/c starts to cool and burning hot to the touch! I do run at low levels driving 4 6x9 speakers. Finally getting ready to relocate it...
Open it up to see the internals.
Yeah hopefully James blows up, he's doing stuff nobody else is. His channel deserves to be amongst the top...
Don't forget about Lorenzo! He's the mastermind behind all the gear :D
Someone intelligent testing this stuff. Thats great. Last guy i watched spent the whole video trying to make sure everyone knew he was too good for the product.
Getting 50w per channel and 150w tp a bridged sub for $60 is excellent
Dayuum did way better than I thought I think it did really well good job on the video man!
Ima buy 1 & play around with it!
Awesome! For the cost, Blaupunkts are solid
YOOO I love this channel, so impressed with your car audio reviews! Basically an engineer that loves car audio. I really wish I thought of this channel, as you have. Would've loved this for my day job instead of my EE job.
Much appreciated! Get a camera and a mic and you can pull it off too!
For $60 you getting a great little 4 channel amp for the money. Perfect for a guy that wants to get a little more sound out of his mids and highs. We all know how to do the math on the fuses right? What are there 2:30 amp fuses? So that means if it gets 10 volts in it should be putting out 600 watts RMS divided by 4. Should be looking at 150 watts per Channel * 4. Let me test it on my Dino. That would be my ears. Even if it puts out a decent 50 Watts RMS x 4 to get a name brand amplifier for $60 brand new in the box with a warranty you cannot go wrong. Not for pushing subwoofers. Not to entertain the neighborhood. Worth every dime.🙈🙊🙉
I think this will work fine for my 35 watt door speakers don't you think
Yes just fine.
@@Qualitymobilevideo ok so i bought the amp and am trying to get 64 watts out of each channel and i hooked my multimeter up to it and was trying to get 32 volts but with the gain all the way up i couldn't get it passed 27.8, am i really going to have to have the gain all the way up
Thanks for making this video, can you please also do it for Sony Xmn1004 Amp?
Can you or someone explain best setting for this to be used with mids like 6.5 speakers....
I have this amp in my boats cabin on a 50A inline fuse. I am rewiring the boat and want to put it on a fuse block. What wire gauge and fuse would actually be enough, with 2x speakers 4ohm and 1x 4ohm sub on a 12V?
It’s 1:15 in the AM and I was about to go to sleep when I looked again …have a question why are testing on a 40 hz tone when this isn’t a monoblock and why didn’t you use 1000 Hz am I missing something??? Maybe it would have did more numbers but only interested because I had an offer on ebay but I’m running avatar ABR460.4 and ATU2000.1 upgraded from RE ztx2 800.4 and soundqubed SQ1250.1…… and then I see the 1000 hz test okay had to rewind a bit 🤣🤣😂😂
dont laugh...40hz is more accurate
May I ask you another question? I’m new at this and trying to learn. My question is this. I have a woofer speaker that’s 6x8 mounted. I’m adding a crossover and a tweeter. Will the tweeter receive half the watts? I mean, let’s say I’ve got 100 watts going to a speaker. I add a crossover and a tweeter. Will the woofer get 50 watts and the tweeter 50 watts? I sure as hell hope not but I’m new and when you get a chance respond. Thank you
Did you figured it out ?
i have this amp. for price an be bridged for 2 subs at a couple hundred watts each. for 4 channel speakers it sounds worse than aftetmarket pioneer. 4x14w
Think your AMM-1 is out of calibration.
What's the point rating at 26v?
that smd stuff are all toys
Damn wish I had all that testing equipment. Not sure where you can get it at Walmart for $60, much higher price online. (Of course this video is 3 years old)
Im still kinda new to this and i have this amp all hooked up n stuff but whats the best settings (on the amp) for bass? I like a lot of bass so what db should i use?
Get a good separate amp for your subwoofer i recomend power acoustik RZR1-2500D on the budget.. make sure you have a good solid subwoofer in a a good sized ported box... thank me later
James, what model is your audio precision? Is it a 1+?
Portable One!
I think blaupunkt uses the wrong symbol rather than 300 x4 they mean 300/4... lol.
bahaha
I did a LONG Term test of this amp. Its still working..
Its STILL working...
It works.
It works///....shuts down. Overheat.
this is the only amplifier that I can say without a doubt requires you to either a live in a polar region or be if you're going to run it at 2 ohms you're going to need one hell of a fan on top of that you're going to also have to install a capacitor directly to the leads to get this thing to actually sound good and dynamic.
it's not a bad amplifier and it does sound good but for some reason it's more like listening to a record that it is a CD player or a high-quality digital file.
I've tried just about everything I can to eliminate a small little bit of distortion that always seems to be coming out of the amplifier. most of you probably won't notice it and therefore you will be just fine just keep the amp cool and you should be okay but it's definitely not my recommendation for amplifiers
plz pioneer mvh s325bt
I'm having a hard time understanding what the numbers mean overall. I get ohms law and how that works; I get how to setup gain and match output to the speakers. Even if the wattage was as stated, why would a 1500Watt amp push 300watt over 4 channels? where does that math work out? Given the results, what would the actual output be and how would I match this with my speakers?
What we're trying to show is that the "1500W" number is a lie. Manufacturers give an overestimate of their amplifier to sell more
@@Qualitymobilevideo I get that. Not my question.
Where do any of the numbers come from? Even if it did what they stated, where does 300W RMS over 4 channels equal 1500W RMS? That doesn't math up without either changing the resistance or adding voltage or current to the system from what I can tell. I don't get where the numbers in themselves come from. Does the test conclude that this is a 500W amp or a 300W amp ($65 seems like a good deal for a 500W amp pushing 80W RMS over 4 channels at 4ohms)? Is it supposed to be the total power that can run through the amp before blowing? does it come from pushing +20V through the amp? That is what I am trying to understand with this. I'm fairly new to car stereo equipment and know just enough about electronics to get really confused.
I also understand why they would do this. It prevents someone who doesn't know anything about current, impedance, voltage... wiring up something, cranking gain, blowing speakers, then complaining that either the company's amp or speakers are crap and did it. Marketing wise, it's safer than having accurate amp numbers and a faulty amateur install being blamed on the manufacturer.
I'd have a real problem with them pricing it with comparable amps and they don't seem to do that. As long as they price in a "get what you pay for," it's about as good as you can expect even if very confusing.
great question...the correct way is take a voltmeter on the speaker +- read say 16.7 volts clean music....(volt x volt)/ ohm = watts....so... 278.89/ 4 ohm speaker = 69.72 watts RMS because the music is "clean".... amps do push more power at 14.4 volts than at 12.60....in time you will learn....
It would be nice if these amp manufacturers would actually care that they were being outed on their claims. And perhaps do something to save what ever reputation they think they have by either not claiming such grandiose numbers, and stating far more accurate information. Or simply building a better amp that has far better output. It's not like the internal components are expensive or anything. Let's face it, they use the cheapest stuff they can to do the job!
what a junk ,,,,almost nothing in the market matches what it says on the box
i have a 6.5 inch speaker that is rated for 110 rms @4ohm and i have yet can find a 2 channel that actually delivers that much to the channel , i dont know which one to believe, should i overshoot the target the nail it ?
If my head unit is rated for 45 x 4w will this amplifier have the correct output (at 4ohms) to put my car's sound system together ?
Ur ready has no way 45watts.. less then 10w each channel more likely
For 60 bucks, what the hey??!!!
No bad for modest 4 speaker upgrade tbh
looks like Zapco ST-4B with some false advertising.
I'll keep my dual 4 channel amp it put out way more power
XPR? XPE? I've got both...
@@johnlaw8476 just bought a xpe2700 400 watts that shit burned out...
PLEASE HELP:
I have 2 12 inch Rockford Fosgate p3’s (P3D4-12)
rated at 600 watts rms at 4 ohms. I have a Rockville dB45 4 channel amp cea rated at 400 watts x2 bridged at 4 ohms. My question is if I wire the subs together in series/parallel wouldn’t that raise my subs rms to 1200 watts at 4 ohms? I want to hook these subs up to my amp but don’t want to blow my amp. I’m pretty sure I’m right and will have to get a more powerful amp but I wanted to ask the pro’s first.
I’ve been looking everywhere for that Rockville DB45. Lol! I don’t think they’re going to make them any more. Anyway, if you’re interested in selling it then send me a message. Thanks
WTF happened to Boston Jim? Still at my mom's?
He's chilling over here: czcams.com/channels/vZb2nCFONWJJbZUl2xMI9Q.html
Lo cual quiere decir que te roban la mitad de lo que pagas por el en la tienda.
hmmm very suspect.blue point hasnt been good since the 80's
You speak German now?
Who TF is running 17-18 volts?
lmfao
@@Jo3harker am I just missing something? Are people really running that high of voltage in car audio? Atleast people buying blaupunkt?
@@Shagfabulous No, nobody runs there amps at 18v xD Car batteries are like 14v MAX. That 18v you see in the video is just the output signal voltage coming out of the amp.
@@Shagfabulous Also If you're looking into getting this amp for all 4 speakers in your car don't do it save up a little bit more for a higher quality one. There's too many cons to beat the cheap price. The wattage they claim is a lie it pushes out 70watts max per channel and if you turn it up too loud it sounds super distorted and 1 of my channels were louder than the others causing 1 speaker to bottom out (Could just be a issue with mine) but I stopped using this amp and went back to my regular radio amp.
@@Jo3harker I'm currently running a XAD12 NVX 1500W. Had a LA11000D before. Boss Riot "1100" before that🤣😂
Wtf, this audio store near by is selling this shit like it’s good stuff, um no bro.
I can already hear the alternator whine coming from this amp
;p;
And what would be the reason for that?
@@johnlaw8476 cheap amp, cheap internals, low shielding, potential for lots of noise
Ok, well don't get offended but, can you name and list all the internals? As far as the shielding are you talking about at the RCAs? Or are you talking internally?
@@wadehensley5005 just curious because I've noticed with car audio just like with most other things most people don't have a solid understanding basically they're uninformed consumers(not saying you are), so I'm still trying to learn