the way you done it is pretty much the only way you can do it without llosening the turbo, however this way is alot harder, the one thing you had to do is, losen the 4 turbo bolts that bolt to the head all the way out , then gap the turbo from the head, push it all the way towards the firewall, it wont come off anyway, due to the coolant lines, no need to stress about that, then you can easily access the DV
I work on aircraft's as a sheet metal mech in some crap areas and let me tell you something, this shit sucks lol. I also had to mod my wrench and was doing a run trough before i get my dv. You so far are the only one who shows a vid of the gen 3 so im surprised you don't have more views. Not a bad vid at all and we took the same route for the most part. Only complaint is the second half has horrible sound so i couldn't hear the outcome. Also just a suggestion to add in to cover the turbo inlet while working or things can go really bad. Thanks again for the vid man. I'm still uncertain if i want to go cts or forge.
i tried to raise the volume it is a little lower but i couldn't raise it anymore(editing won't allow higher volume adjustments than what i ended up with)i got the instructions from cts and followed them but it said nothing about bending wrench. just remove 3 bolts:( i went cts diverter instead of forge bov bc i felt that it was designed for diverter and if a bov ruins the performance in any way then i don't want it. after all every tune for the car is done with a diverter valve in mind not bov so you are technically jeapordizing the performance and lifespan of the motor if you go bov. the air is measured to be there not released into the atmosphere. thank you for your comment.
how did you remove the 3rd bolt that you cant see from the top. I got the first one and the second one by the coolant line. The third one I cant get I was so frustrated I put it all back together and thought to my self I would try another time haha
how did you remove the 3rd bolt that you cant see from the top. I got the first one and the second one by the coolant line. The third one I cant get I was so frustrated I put it all back together and thought to my self I would try another time haha
I explain the steps in the video. The space is to small to get a camera into. The explanation has helped alot of people. You could also unbolt the downpipe and turbo but its more involved and youll need to replace the gaskets if you do that. Ive done different dv and bov options on the car and this was the quickest as far as not having leaks after. Unbolting turbo definitely gives more room but as said youll need to replace gaskets or it will leak.
Thanks for putting this up. But I can't seem to get a t-30 and small ratchet into the space to loosen the top right and lower bolts. To make matters worse no one here in Phoenix has the "Bostitch" mini rachet. So, probably to a shop to fix boost lag and diverter valve issues. Thanks again for the video.
Many thanks to Chris. Was able to get the stock DV out and install GFB DV+ 9381. Took me two days and 4.5 hrs in the hot sun but got it done and it works well.
i just bought 2.0 diverter valve for my gli, i found this small craftsman ratcheting driver hopefully it can get it done but im dredding doing it lmao in phoenix too
You don’t even know how many people you’re helping lmao, I just got a new turbosmart BOV so I don’t have to deal with all the vacuum line stuff. But I’ve been petrified to even try and start cause I can’t find any real instructions other than people complaining and bitching that they had to take off the turbo and I’m really not tryna do that.
Thanks for the comment and kind words. Now if i can just get everyone to like and subscribe so i can monetize my videos again and id be a happier camper😂😂 yea i switched out to the turbosmart bov but i loosened the turbo to do that one since its bigger than the cts dv.
This may be a dumb question but I'm not getting boost from my turbo. Seems like the wastegate is working properly, seems like the turbo itself is good as far as bearings. Could that valve cause this very low power and no boost?
On a mk6 gen3 good luck😂😂. But when i replaced it with a turbosmart dualport i unbolted the turbo and pushed it back about 1-2 inches. That made the job about an hour faster of an install and no home made tools needed.
@@reesechris76 I asked because I saw someone install a CTS inlet pipe and turbo muffler delete. And it seemed like everything was pretty accessible from the wheel well once the liner was removed
I would say that an aftermarket one would be better. Spacers usually dont help at all and can make things worse. An aftermarket valve is made to see the atmosphere if you get a bov and the aftermarket dv are made to work better than oem also if you buy one that was designed for the car as the cts one was.
Dan Villa mine is not quieter than stock. But the only thing i can think of is that you might have been losing pressure before so your stock one sounded louder. I noticed a pressure increase on my jetta, and it only had 5k miles sounds odd but mabe its the butt dyno that felt increased power less lag. Plus i have a cts intake and you can hear the spool sounds louder. At the end of my video around 450-520 i show a sound clip. On the computer it is barely noticed but i can hear it well on my cell phone. But also im dsg which makes it less active and its a dv not a bov so you aren't going to hear as much as a bov.
chris reese I have a cts intake and stock definitely louder. I also notice less lag in between shifts mines a 6mt. Maybe I have to wait for the spring to break in??? I have read about them being stiffer at first only have maybe 10 miles on it since installed.
Dan Villa i never heard about spring break in but im glad that you also felt less lag like i did, guess my butt dyno was accurate.lol But hope you get the sound you wanted, i did it for a performance aspect thats also why i went dv, gotta be top notch with mods these days. Enjoy.
chris reese well hopefully I'll get some more sound I also did it for performance I'm Apr stage 2 upgraded clutch etc... sounded better before minus the flute noise that is gone for the most part. Btw I had to unbolt my turbo and downpipe my coolant line ran different than yours blocked the torx bolts. Took me all day
Hi Repman.. I have a vw vento gen3 too and I was looking a DIY in order to install DV+ without pull off turbo. But I have not found yet. Let me know if could find anything about it. Thanks!
@@reesechris76 Hi. It is the same jetta mk6 Gen3 that you have in America. It is a 2.0 TSI with garret "holywel" m1752s turbo. The problem was that all DIY to install DV+ are pulling out turbo. I read about people who could install DV+ without pull out turbo, but they did not make DIY.... thanks for your response.
Diego Esposito if it is the same then you could remove it the way i did in this video, i did not remove the turbo, but it took a little while to do. But you might be fine i think some people had issues with the height clearance of the dv+ on this setup ask around on the forums. But this is how its done from cts directions. They did not mention angles and tools but its done now lol. We have snow during winter, 90degree summers. The cts diverter valve has worked perfectly for me. Best of luck.
I changed out the cts dv for a bigger bov recently. I ended up unbolting the turbo but not removing it to be able to get to the bolts better on the bigger bov.
If your looking at the motor from the front you stick your hand down the left hand side by the inlet for the turbo and stick your hand and your socket toward the front of the dv and loosen it. Hardest bolt for me is the one i bent the ratchet for. Unbolting the turbo some now that ive done a couple now makes the job even easier but is not necessary
@@reesechris76 you’re a magician forsure.. the two visible bolts from the top is not the problem it’s the 3rd bolt that’s underneath the diverter valve, I can’t even get a visual on it..
@@XxInfamousxD you put your left arm down the side and you can feel the bolt for the 3rd one near the motor. And that tool i used fits in there. If you still cant get it loosen the bracket for the turbo and the main turbo bolts and the downpipe clamp to turbo and you will get more room to do it. But i did not do that on the cts dv. I did however do that installing the turbosmart bov as the turbosmart one is bigger and harder to put the bolts in.
@@reesechris76 I was able to get a shop to install it for me, unfortunately a CEL came on nothing feels wrong with the car, they cleared the code & I drove about 30 mins when it popped up again, do you know what might be the problem?
@@XxInfamousxD check the code or codes that pops up. But i would check that the vacuum lines are in the correct orientation. You can find the info in my video or on cts website. Also if it happens to be a boost leak code or something could possibly be shop didnt tighten down the bolts tight enough or the orings might not be on or seated properly. But no one would be able to help you without knowing the codes.
@@SwoogaBooga the one on my car is labeled diverter valve. That wont make a whoosh sound. And there blow off valve I believe just goes tss real quick and thats it. I recently installed a turbosmart dv1 dualport in the gli and give the nice woosh / kssshhh sound.
Esteban Cuadrado if the turbo and diverter valve are in the same location as the 2.0 then i would say yes. But i do not have a 1.8t to reference so i am unsure.
carlosvalles96 i dont know what spring you are talking about. No spring in my kit. If i had to make a guess without seeing it id say for big turbo application where you need more boost pressure you would change out the spring in bov/dv
chris reese another question boss, they sent me one hose but on the picture it looks like there are other hoses for the top and bottom of the valve, do I have to cut it or?
Remove that one first. Put your hand furthest to passenger side fender between dv and engine with small ratchet bit. If all else fails loosen turbo and bracket from motor and push turbo back some to gain more access then retighten. Best of luck
Originals Wolfsburg i did not lift up the car. At first i did to see why , my guess is to get to the turbo inlet pipe easier bc the bolts are above it for the dv. I have big hands and it would not help me. It was all done from the top.
Hey . So I’ve got this dv valve installed. I feel better response when I step on the gas however I don’t hear much of a difference compared to the oem unit. Is it the same with yours?
Extremely helpful. I couldn't find any video on the EA888.3 video or write up.
It is good to know that there is someone else that I can count on for help with these cars if u have an epc problem I can help 🤙
Thank you so much I didn’t find a damn video
The shop didn’t even wanna do it they said they had to remove the turbo
I got the same engine code, honestly is such a pain when removing it. I decided to let the shop do it for me
how much did they charge you
the way you done it is pretty much the only way you can do it without llosening the turbo, however this way is alot harder, the one thing you had to do is, losen the 4 turbo bolts that bolt to the head all the way out , then gap the turbo from the head, push it all the way towards the firewall, it wont come off anyway, due to the coolant lines, no need to stress about that, then you can easily access the DV
dam i am having the same problem i have the top 2 off but the bottom one is crazy hard to line up
I work on aircraft's as a sheet metal mech in some crap areas and let me tell you something, this shit sucks lol. I also had to mod my wrench and was doing a run trough before i get my dv. You so far are the only one who shows a vid of the gen 3 so im surprised you don't have more views. Not a bad vid at all and we took the same route for the most part. Only complaint is the second half has horrible sound so i couldn't hear the outcome. Also just a suggestion to add in to cover the turbo inlet while working or things can go really bad. Thanks again for the vid man. I'm still uncertain if i want to go cts or forge.
i tried to raise the volume it is a little lower but i couldn't raise it anymore(editing won't allow higher volume adjustments than what i ended up with)i got the instructions from cts and followed them but it said nothing about bending wrench. just remove 3 bolts:( i went cts diverter instead of forge bov bc i felt that it was designed for diverter and if a bov ruins the performance in any way then i don't want it. after all every tune for the car is done with a diverter valve in mind not bov so you are technically jeapordizing the performance and lifespan of the motor if you go bov. the air is measured to be there not released into the atmosphere. thank you for your comment.
how did you remove the 3rd bolt that you cant see from the top. I got the first one and the second one by the coolant line. The third one I cant get I was so frustrated I put it all back together and thought to my self I would try another time haha
how did you remove the 3rd bolt that you cant see from the top. I got the first one and the second one by the coolant line. The third one I cant get I was so frustrated I put it all back together and thought to my self I would try another time haha
Sunny Razzak from the open space on your left hand side as i described in the video, on the left side of the turbo when i pretend to ratchet.
Ok am I missing something here is there any footage of you removing the old one?
I explain the steps in the video. The space is to small to get a camera into. The explanation has helped alot of people. You could also unbolt the downpipe and turbo but its more involved and youll need to replace the gaskets if you do that. Ive done different dv and bov options on the car and this was the quickest as far as not having leaks after. Unbolting turbo definitely gives more room but as said youll need to replace gaskets or it will leak.
Thanks for putting this up. But I can't seem to get a t-30 and small ratchet into the space to loosen the top right and lower bolts. To make matters worse no one here in Phoenix has the "Bostitch" mini rachet. So, probably to a shop to fix boost lag and diverter valve issues. Thanks again for the video.
Many thanks to Chris. Was able to get the stock DV out and install GFB DV+ 9381. Took me two days and 4.5 hrs in the hot sun but got it done and it works well.
i just bought 2.0 diverter valve for my gli, i found this small craftsman ratcheting driver hopefully it can get it done but im dredding doing it lmao in phoenix too
Did you have to unbolt turbo @@jornellas6060
You don’t even know how many people you’re helping lmao, I just got a new turbosmart BOV so I don’t have to deal with all the vacuum line stuff. But I’ve been petrified to even try and start cause I can’t find any real instructions other than people complaining and bitching that they had to take off the turbo and I’m really not tryna do that.
Thanks for the comment and kind words. Now if i can just get everyone to like and subscribe so i can monetize my videos again and id be a happier camper😂😂 yea i switched out to the turbosmart bov but i loosened the turbo to do that one since its bigger than the cts dv.
This may be a dumb question but I'm not getting boost from my turbo. Seems like the wastegate is working properly, seems like the turbo itself is good as far as bearings. Could that valve cause this very low power and no boost?
Is the car diverter valve or blow off valve leaking?
Wouldn’t it be easier to go in from the wheel well? That’s how you swap out the charge pipe and the turbo muffler.
On a mk6 gen3 good luck😂😂. But when i replaced it with a turbosmart dualport i unbolted the turbo and pushed it back about 1-2 inches. That made the job about an hour faster of an install and no home made tools needed.
@@reesechris76 I asked because I saw someone install a CTS inlet pipe and turbo muffler delete. And it seemed like everything was pretty accessible from the wheel well once the liner was removed
@@reesechris76 how what bolts on turbo ???
You know they make a flexible hose bit driver? No reason to bend tools, just get the right tool for the job.
I have a flexible bit driver. You cannot get the leverage on the bolt with that as you can a bent tool
And I thought the DV on a mk7 GTI was a pain in the ass. The wife's 14 GLI needs a new DV and looks like its going to the shop. LOL
Is it better to replace the diverter valve with an aftermarket one or use a spacer with the stock one
I would say that an aftermarket one would be better. Spacers usually dont help at all and can make things worse. An aftermarket valve is made to see the atmosphere if you get a bov and the aftermarket dv are made to work better than oem also if you buy one that was designed for the car as the cts one was.
I just installed the same dv on my car and its a lot quieter than stock.... is yours the same? It doesn't make sense to me
Dan Villa mine is not quieter than stock. But the only thing i can think of is that you might have been losing pressure before so your stock one sounded louder. I noticed a pressure increase on my jetta, and it only had 5k miles sounds odd but mabe its the butt dyno that felt increased power less lag. Plus i have a cts intake and you can hear the spool sounds louder. At the end of my video around 450-520 i show a sound clip. On the computer it is barely noticed but i can hear it well on my cell phone. But also im dsg which makes it less active and its a dv not a bov so you aren't going to hear as much as a bov.
chris reese I have a cts intake and stock definitely louder. I also notice less lag in between shifts mines a 6mt. Maybe I have to wait for the spring to break in??? I have read about them being stiffer at first only have maybe 10 miles on it since installed.
Dan Villa i never heard about spring break in but im glad that you also felt less lag like i did, guess my butt dyno was accurate.lol But hope you get the sound you wanted, i did it for a performance aspect thats also why i went dv, gotta be top notch with mods these days. Enjoy.
chris reese well hopefully I'll get some more sound I also did it for performance I'm Apr stage 2 upgraded clutch etc... sounded better before minus the flute noise that is gone for the most part. Btw I had to unbolt my turbo and downpipe my coolant line ran different than yours blocked the torx bolts. Took me all day
Did you remove electrical connector first? And how did you get the last/hardest bolt did you use the bent tool?
Doomsday 1442 yes, its all in the video
chris reese thanks a lot. One install video that’s not absolute shit. I bought one and I’m still trying to Install it. Hopefully i get it done 👌🏻
@@DavidSimonides so did you do it? Hiw hard was it
What year and month is your car?
Repman22 2016 jetta gli, i dont know the month , dont feel like looking lol, but shouldnt matter.
Hi Repman.. I have a vw vento gen3 too and I was looking a DIY in order to install DV+ without pull off turbo. But I have not found yet. Let me know if could find anything about it. Thanks!
Diego Esposito we dont have those in america so i am not sure what the differences are. Sorry and good luck.
@@reesechris76 Hi. It is the same jetta mk6 Gen3 that you have in America. It is a 2.0 TSI with garret "holywel" m1752s turbo. The problem was that all DIY to install DV+ are pulling out turbo. I read about people who could install DV+ without pull out turbo, but they did not make DIY.... thanks for your response.
Diego Esposito if it is the same then you could remove it the way i did in this video, i did not remove the turbo, but it took a little while to do. But you might be fine i think some people had issues with the height clearance of the dv+ on this setup ask around on the forums. But this is how its done from cts directions. They did not mention angles and tools but its done now lol. We have snow during winter, 90degree summers. The cts diverter valve has worked perfectly for me. Best of luck.
Do you have to oil up the dv every certain miles? I hear some people say you have to oil them sometimes
Deeno Swauvi no you dont have to lubricate it should be maintained like your factory one.
I have a ‘17 Passat rline & that bottom bolt is just too hard to access not enough space to get inside
I changed out the cts dv for a bigger bov recently. I ended up unbolting the turbo but not removing it to be able to get to the bolts better on the bigger bov.
@@reesechris76 nice actually, I might have to give that a try!
I have the same car 17 passat r line. I don't know how that bottom bolt is coming out. Did you find a way ?
@@Herewego597 no, i didn’t find a solution
How do you manage to remove the bottom bolt? if anything that's the only issue im having right now
If your looking at the motor from the front you stick your hand down the left hand side by the inlet for the turbo and stick your hand and your socket toward the front of the dv and loosen it. Hardest bolt for me is the one i bent the ratchet for. Unbolting the turbo some now that ive done a couple now makes the job even easier but is not necessary
I’ve been working on that bottom one for 5 ours now
How did you get the O ring on the bottom on the DV to stay in place ?
I didnt have issues with oring. But if you do you can use engine oil or rtv silicone on the oring. Whichever you prefer.
@@reesechris76 Got it taken care of! Thanks! This video helped me out more than you could imagine
Did you remove the inlet pipe to make a little more room before installing dv?
I only removed the intake.
@@reesechris76 you’re a magician forsure.. the two visible bolts from the top is not the problem it’s the 3rd bolt that’s underneath the diverter valve, I can’t even get a visual on it..
@@XxInfamousxD you put your left arm down the side and you can feel the bolt for the 3rd one near the motor. And that tool i used fits in there. If you still cant get it loosen the bracket for the turbo and the main turbo bolts and the downpipe clamp to turbo and you will get more room to do it. But i did not do that on the cts dv. I did however do that installing the turbosmart bov as the turbosmart one is bigger and harder to put the bolts in.
@@reesechris76 I was able to get a shop to install it for me, unfortunately a CEL came on nothing feels wrong with the car, they cleared the code & I drove about 30 mins when it popped up again, do you know what might be the problem?
@@XxInfamousxD check the code or codes that pops up. But i would check that the vacuum lines are in the correct orientation. You can find the info in my video or on cts website. Also if it happens to be a boost leak code or something could possibly be shop didnt tighten down the bolts tight enough or the orings might not be on or seated properly. But no one would be able to help you without knowing the codes.
I just recently installed this on my car is it normal for it not to make the whoosh sound like most blow offs?
It’s just labeled as a blow off so I’m not sure
@@SwoogaBooga the one on my car is labeled diverter valve. That wont make a whoosh sound. And there blow off valve I believe just goes tss real quick and thats it. I recently installed a turbosmart dv1 dualport in the gli and give the nice woosh / kssshhh sound.
Would this be the same for a Jetta 1.8t engine?
Esteban Cuadrado if the turbo and diverter valve are in the same location as the 2.0 then i would say yes. But i do not have a 1.8t to reference so i am unsure.
I know this is an old question, but the answer is yes, It is the same and it sucks.
How exactly did you tap into the vacuum line?
Doomsday 1442 its in the cts install to add a t where noted in the instructions
This is impossible how do i do this
How
Where does the spring go?
spare red spring is only for 30psi+ turbos
If you could shoot me a reply I have my car half apart I just got few questions I got the cts bov
Whats your question?
Oh I’m returning the one I bought. Not happening
Hey man what’s the red spring for ? Or where does it go?
carlosvalles96 i dont know what spring you are talking about. No spring in my kit. If i had to make a guess without seeing it id say for big turbo application where you need more boost pressure you would change out the spring in bov/dv
chris reese another question boss, they sent me one hose but on the picture it looks like there are other hoses for the top and bottom of the valve, do I have to cut it or?
CTS Turbo 2.0T Diverter Valve Kit (2.0T, 1.8T Gen 3) that’s the kit I got from modded euros
carlosvalles96 you would have to look at the directions. I followed the directions, they were pretty spot on
@@carlosvalles96 did you find out what the springg was for im in the same problem
Any sound clip?
DJ Ustan watch video till the end. Sound clip is on video
Hey man I’m stuggling with the bolt closest to the front of the car. Any tips?
Remove that one first. Put your hand furthest to passenger side fender between dv and engine with small ratchet bit. If all else fails loosen turbo and bracket from motor and push turbo back some to gain more access then retighten. Best of luck
Did you have to lift up the car at all?? I’ve noticed on the directions provided in the CTs kit, it mentions to lift up the car? What for?
Originals Wolfsburg i did not lift up the car. At first i did to see why , my guess is to get to the turbo inlet pipe easier bc the bolts are above it for the dv. I have big hands and it would not help me. It was all done from the top.
chris reese thanks. Do you think I can use a flex head ratchet + torx bit as an alternative to your suggestion of bending the rachet to an L shape?
Originals Wolfsburg its a really tight spot. Worse that can happen is it doesnt work out and you bend a wrench like i did
chris reese thanks .im anxiously waiting for the part to arrive. My oem one took a dump and is leaking oil
Hey . So I’ve got this dv valve installed. I feel better response when I step on the gas however I don’t hear much of a difference compared to the oem unit. Is it the same with yours?