1:30 "After a half-hour you should see this thing" For me this part took _2 and a half hours to complete_ *And the rest of the photogrammetry took almost 6 hours* But still great tutorial, and it actually is REALLY addicting
Try 3DF ZEPHYR. It has a free version also which can do 50 images. Meshroom with 107 pics took 8 hrs on my pc while zephyr took 1 and a half. The result was also way better. Try it out, you might like it.
Virgin 3D scanning: going outside, taking a hell lot of pictures, need hours to render, too many vertices Chad Ian Hubert: just make a cylinder and extrude, add a texture and voilà
true Ian Hubert's tutorials are incredibly easy and useful, but if you want realistic 3d props or models for game scenes, photo-scanned objects are better bc of the details and realism.
I do a lot of modelling and animating, but I also got into 3D printing. So this video doubles as a way to 3D scan an object and reprint it as a model. I appreciate it!
Instead of taking photos, I took a video with the same motion and locked settings on my phone. I later edited unnecessary stuff out of the video... Then I REALLY decreased the frame rate because bro, too many frames. Output your video as a JPEG sequence and I suppose you know where to go from here!
Yup that's the only way I've tried it, but now I'm debating switching to photos like everybody else because I wonder if it outputs sharper image textures!
Before starting this tutorial, I had never touched Blender. Nevertheless, I was interested enough to push through and scan my first object. I'm happy to say that I now have a really strange looking cream soda can that I may drop into UE4. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Peter!
You don't photoscan a can! It's much easier to model/find a can. Photoscanning is better for organic or rough objects that would look worse if you made them from scratch.
Coltyn Stone-Lamontagne True.... a square marker, a few strategic photos, fSpy, project from view, bake? This one is just for teaching, anyway, I guess..
or maybe you suck at modeling and creating UV textures, and this is your way to go! also there are some retopology tools out there so you can have quads and decent render times. :D
Wow I was really bummed when I saw the display.land app was closed recently. I’m so glad you made this! It actually seems to be a lot easier than I thought it would be haha. Thanks so much Peter!!
Oh wow. I’ve fallen far enough down the Blender CZcams rabbit hole to arrive at this video and think “I know this voice...oh! It’s Peter from Corridor!” Happy to be here and learn more for my journey through Blender!
hey man, I find taking a slow video tracking around your chosen object, then using some software that extracts as many frames as you like per second is a neat trick. it's faster than taking pictures. I find it often picks ups more detail because of the smoother camera pan around the object.
I think you could cut some time out of this process by doing an edge split after cutting the model (vertex group may still be good for safety). That way when you select the model and ctrl-L to select linked parts it will be disconnected from the garbage.
You’re amazing!! One of the best tutorials I’ve ever taken! Exactly what I was looking for. I can’t tell you how much you’ve helped me. You earned my subscription
Also, any images that aren't going into the color socket should be set to "non-color data", so I usually use two copies of the image, one set to srgb and one to non-color :)
If you have access to a DSLR and have some knowledge about it; you might want to try a CPL filter on the lens. These are made to block out 99% of reflection if you use them right
If you're just using it for modeling and texture reference, grab an iphone 12pro and 3dscan the same object with that. While you're waiting for the photogrammetry to calculate, you can Probably model the object with decent topology and have it unwrapped by the time Meshroom is finished. Once you get the nicer data, you can selectively merge those. Like, the textures will be much better there. But the UVs suck, so bake those textures onto your new model? You can also grab some of the smaller details that didn't scan with your phone in your crappy, but still very impressive, real-time scan. Seriously, if you don't have one, find someone with one. Get the "3d scanner app" (such a terrible name) and do a scan. If you're Super anti apple, I believe the galaxy note 20, and Maybe the note 10?, has the same kind of liDar sensor. Oddly though, for smaller details, the FaceID camera has better quality, but is limited to small objects. I'm looking into seeing if it's worth it to use both.
Meshroom is hanging for me all the time. I got it stuck on 3 different places and if your stuck i basically have to redo all of it... it didnt work for 7 Times now and its faster to just model it per hand
Ohh so YOUR THE GUY Ian Hurbert is trying to be like 👍 WooW ots an Honour of mine to be on your channel Sir. Great Vid man even better attitude. Thanks bro 🙏✌
I see some plants in your photo collage at the end when you're telling us to see your patreon. I'm interested to see how you were able to scan those since there are so many overlapping and thin objects. I've only tried photoscanning a few times with varying success, but that's one that I never was able to get. Any time I had occluding objects, it seemed to just get one or the other. Tips and tricks for thin and occluding objects would be a sweet video.
Its not an accurate height map anyway... For converting an actual height map into a normal map, you're absolutely right. But this is some arbitrary detail stolen from a colorimage... It's physically wrong anyway, so you cant mess up realistic details..... Just choose what looks better. And Ill tell you, for those color to height conversions it won't 100% always be distance. Especially flat objects that are very colorful dont want to protect the distance. The distance on those heightmap conversions comes from dark/light colors in the diffuse.... They dont resemble distance at all. They dont indicate how far something should appear when you convert them from color... They only provide some microdetail at convenient spots. By using strength (and therefore destroying the distance accuracy) you'll effectively lower the impact of dark regions next to light regions while still keeping the details on both intact. So the wrong height information from different colors gets destroyed while it will still give you the microdetails.... In this case probably exactly what you want. I discovered this on some procedural asphalt that had much lighter asphalt patches on it.... I took height from color and all the light patches looked like they were raised higher - the color tells it to do that. But by putting strength to 1 and lowering the distance to near 0 all those broad height informations got destroyed entirely only leaving the even pore details behind.
@@888marcinb Its a white hydrant with dark rust on it! It will not look better to adjust distance on this. the distance is absolutely wrong for contrastful colorimages. It would bump the rust 2cm in until some microdetail reaches the flat pieces. Adjust strength and it will uniformly transfer microdetail onto both the rust and the flat piece without creating a border around the transition.
Good tutorial, thanks, it's still a lot of work and time for such a simple object, it could be done faster+cleaner in modeling mode. I'll keep that tutorial in mind for very complex objects.
V is helpful as well, it cuts the mesh along the edges you select. Personally Id rather re model the thing then bake the texture from the scan to my new model, Doesn't take much more time than sculpting and saves a ton on data too! then you can use it in games n stuff
Gl hf everyone getting into this, meshroom requires a Nvidia GPU with CUDA 2.0 or greater. You can try to customize the workflow to run through CPU only, but I warn you now it is a lot of work and totally worth it but get ready for a long journey.
Straight forward tuts like this are multiplying... How lucky the generations today is
👍
I agree!!!
Seriously. Very little excuse nowadays for not knowing how to do the things you want to do.
Channelling the Hubert. 🙂
He is iconic.
Hey I mean if you find a better way to make tutorials, let me know. Love to Ian!
@@PeterFrance no criticism intended. As always, love your work. 🙂
@Christian William haha theres a hubert inside you
just need to add Moths the the model now
Holy cow this is so incredibly useful, it’s midnight now and I’m in bed but I’ve never been more excited to jump in blender in the morning
One year later, same. Lol
Two years later, same. Lol
1:30 "After a half-hour you should see this thing"
For me this part took _2 and a half hours to complete_
*And the rest of the photogrammetry took almost 6 hours*
But still great tutorial, and it actually is REALLY addicting
Try 3DF ZEPHYR. It has a free version also which can do 50 images. Meshroom with 107 pics took 8 hrs on my pc while zephyr took 1 and a half. The result was also way better. Try it out, you might like it.
@@shivanshsingh8229 Thanks to your comment I tried it out this afternoon and it worked great! Thanks for recommending
@@AustinThomasFilms Cant see his comment, what did he recommend?
@@Mrcoolagainbuzy I can't see it now either but I believe it was a program called 3DF Zephyr. As opposed to using Meshroom.
"save your project as something other than flagdlag"
Me: no I don't think I will
Flagdlag? I've never heard of her.
I haven't even realized it's Peter at first, holy
Same
Virgin 3D scanning: going outside, taking a hell lot of pictures, need hours to render, too many vertices
Chad Ian Hubert: just make a cylinder and extrude, add a texture and voilà
true Ian Hubert's tutorials are incredibly easy and useful, but if you want realistic 3d props or models for game scenes, photo-scanned objects are better bc of the details and realism.
@@Funatiq If you game models, 3D scanning is probably one the worst options
@@Adem92Foster that's not true, its already being used in a lot of games.
First This guy teaching you Photo scanning not modeling
@@Adem92Foster depends remeshing
I do a lot of modelling and animating, but I also got into 3D printing. So this video doubles as a way to 3D scan an object and reprint it as a model. I appreciate it!
10 seconds into the vid and I was like "oh this is Peter from corridor"
wait what
same
Yeah, beeple best friend
Same here 😂😂
These are really good tutorials.
The step that I did best is being as awkward as possible...
I appreciate how you start with a super basic photogrammetry tutorial and follow up with pretty advanced Blender show :D
Instead of taking photos, I took a video with the same motion and locked settings on my phone. I later edited unnecessary stuff out of the video...
Then I REALLY decreased the frame rate because bro, too many frames.
Output your video as a JPEG sequence and I suppose you know where to go from here!
That's...brilliant.
Yup that's the only way I've tried it, but now I'm debating switching to photos like everybody else because I wonder if it outputs sharper image textures!
@@Leukick but you can sharp the sequence and remove noise
@@LuisSOfficial HDR enabled photo> JPED "Screenshots"
It is addicting, where ever I go im just looking for things to 3D scan now
Bro! This was a MASTER CLASS..... I've been using Blender for like 8 years, and never learned so much in one video!...
You can just press L while hovering over an object to select all linked faces instead of selecting a face and pressing ctrl and l
I'm sure he said that
@@theCreativeSav No. He said Ctrl+L which is slower than L.
Before starting this tutorial, I had never touched Blender. Nevertheless, I was interested enough to push through and scan my first object.
I'm happy to say that I now have a really strange looking cream soda can that I may drop into UE4. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Peter!
You don't photoscan a can! It's much easier to model/find a can. Photoscanning is better for organic or rough objects that would look worse if you made them from scratch.
Chrysippus I agree. I have scanned a few more objects now, but hand-modeling them would probably be better. It’s all fun though!
Ironically selecting the one thing in the environment that could be modelled in 10 minutes ...
Robin Betts exactly what I’m thinking 😂😂😂
Coltyn Stone-Lamontagne True.... a square marker, a few strategic photos, fSpy, project from view, bake? This one is just for teaching, anyway, I guess..
A summation of how my decisionmaking tends to happen in 3D
@@sdrawkcabmiay well u could use a few images and its not that hard
or maybe you suck at modeling and creating UV textures, and this is your way to go! also there are some retopology tools out there so you can have quads and decent render times. :D
This is some Stark Industry level right there
Wow I was really bummed when I saw the display.land app was closed recently. I’m so glad you made this! It actually seems to be a lot easier than I thought it would be haha. Thanks so much Peter!!
Wait, really? That sucks :(
"." meaning you are on a phone.
@@chickeninabox yet display land was written like display.land
And what's wrong with being on a phone?
@@Raspyx Nothing wrong, Its like being a European or American.
Oh wow. I’ve fallen far enough down the Blender CZcams rabbit hole to arrive at this video and think “I know this voice...oh! It’s Peter from Corridor!” Happy to be here and learn more for my journey through Blender!
I appreciate the partial tutorial in how to be awkward in social interactions, but I already have that covered.
hey man, I find taking a slow video tracking around your chosen object, then using some software that extracts as many frames as you like per second is a neat trick. it's faster than taking pictures. I find it often picks ups more detail because of the smoother camera pan around the object.
yes that's cool and all until you get motion blur, rolling shutter, auto exposure, and god knows how many other artifacts
i tried that with ffmpeg to extract frames, let me tell you, it's not worth it
The mustache and long socks make the perfect man for anything.
@4K Creator Are you a freak or what?
Thank you for sharing. This was awesome! Tutorial suggestion: photo scanning an environment, such as a room or an outdoor scene.
I definitely didn’t spend like a month on one project like this to 3D print, modeling a house, and thus learned basically all of this the hard way.
The way you go through the tutorial is both entertaining and highly effective for learning lol good job
Thank you Peter! This is EXACTLY what I needed. I love your content and everything you do at Corridor.
For anyone not seeing the "load model" option be sure to double click on the texturing node
Nice music 👍
OOOOOOOH Peeeeeeete, Pete from Corridor. Thanks Pete, from one Pete to another.
Quick Tip instead of removing vertices use the boolean tool it faster
that people looking at you awkwardly is so accurate ....
I think you could cut some time out of this process by doing an edge split after cutting the model (vertex group may still be good for safety). That way when you select the model and ctrl-L to select linked parts it will be disconnected from the garbage.
1:33 That… is SO cool!!!! I’ll do this eventually.
I have a DSLR. I have powerful-ish PCs. I have 3d printers.
_My God what have you done to me, Peter_
That intro is gold. What 3D designer hasn't ruined a good date by pausing to take photos of inanimate every day objects?
This is awesome Peter! Please make a tutorial about making a custom HDRI with your camera. Thank you! 🙏🏽❤️
czcams.com/video/MASbLjQ9S_Y/video.html
@@John-lj7zo thanks lol I've seen that video. I just wanted to see Peter's point of view
Whahhaha ok
@@theCreativeSav It's probably the same point of view. Just a different voice.
Thank the algorithm! Thought i recognized that voice from the Crew :D great vid!
That's much more simple than I imagined, nice
I'm always torn between hating people who copy others or not, but then the video is just so good so whatever.
Peter, you are amazing.
You know how this helps me?
A dammn lot... No one taught me this..
Thank you so much!
Keep the great work up. 👍
This is so helpful! Thanks! You and Blender Guru are my go to people for Blender stuff!
You’re amazing!! One of the best tutorials I’ve ever taken! Exactly what I was looking for. I can’t tell you how much you’ve helped me. You earned my subscription
omfg this is not only perfect but exactly what i was looking for. Thanks my G!!
loving your humor, so set in reality :)
I came for the Photoscanning, Leaving *Needing* the bagel. 🍔🍩
this is beyond science
I'm so gonna do this now. Then I'll use the Instant Meshes to clean up the objects! This is great!
Came for the Blender. Left due to mask kuk boi
Wait, your the guy from Corridor
This is the video I’ve been needing!
Very cool. Does this work for viscous things like a raw egg?
It works for literally anything
@Tristen Hezekiah it's a bot
@@arcanekelpyg3370 there both bots i've seen them all the time
@@thewatchingeye2378 ah
@@thewatchingeye2378 True, this happens a lot. Freaking scammers lol
Thank you for such a straight forward tutorial, much appreicated
i remember you form corridor how did it take me so long to find this channel
Me while watching this video at 3 am in my toilet: Poops vigorously in excitement.
Save your object to something other than "asxvzgsh" got me to subscribe right away 😂 amazing work man !
This is great. Concise, a relevant topic, a few extra tips thrown in. Thank you.
Thank you was finding a good photoscan tutorial from a long time. Love your spiderman movie
Also, any images that aren't going into the color socket should be set to "non-color data", so I usually use two copies of the image, one set to srgb and one to non-color :)
Lmao I didnt look at the channel name and once I saw your face I was like "Omg thats peter."
Peter 42
Watching this video knowing full well i don't have he patience to do photoscans - but it's so cool
Me: Yes i can finally scan whole car models!
Peter: NO!
If you have access to a DSLR and have some knowledge about it; you might want to try a CPL filter on the lens. These are made to block out 99% of reflection if you use them right
@@mantenbrink I know about cpl filters. It was a joke. ;)
For a moment the yellow models in the thumbnail made me think this was adventure time...
LIke Jake! What are doing pretending to be furniture?
Love your tutorial style! Much appreciated and super clear and helpful
If you're just using it for modeling and texture reference, grab an iphone 12pro and 3dscan the same object with that. While you're waiting for the photogrammetry to calculate, you can Probably model the object with decent topology and have it unwrapped by the time Meshroom is finished. Once you get the nicer data, you can selectively merge those. Like, the textures will be much better there. But the UVs suck, so bake those textures onto your new model? You can also grab some of the smaller details that didn't scan with your phone in your crappy, but still very impressive, real-time scan.
Seriously, if you don't have one, find someone with one. Get the "3d scanner app" (such a terrible name) and do a scan. If you're Super anti apple, I believe the galaxy note 20, and Maybe the note 10?, has the same kind of liDar sensor.
Oddly though, for smaller details, the FaceID camera has better quality, but is limited to small objects. I'm looking into seeing if it's worth it to use both.
Aaah man …I’m just gonna model a hand pump ❤😂…great info tho , really good for humans
I was laughing so hard at 1.20. Funny video, great work
Damn man, just the tutorial I was looking for! Sweet AF explanation, nice and easy... cheers :D
Yes Peter, it is time you take over the CZcams Blender community. Take your seat, among the gods.
liked and subscribed thank you very much for this tutorials man
Btw @3:14 you don’t need to click and then press Ctrl+L if you just hover your cursor over the object and press L it does the same thing
Meshroom is hanging for me all the time. I got it stuck on 3 different places and if your stuck i basically have to redo all of it... it didnt work for 7 Times now and its faster to just model it per hand
You remind my of someone from a popular CZcams channel that does CGI.
Ohh you're that guy, subbed immediately
Ohh so YOUR THE GUY Ian Hurbert is trying to be like 👍 WooW ots an Honour of mine to be on your channel Sir. Great Vid man even better attitude. Thanks bro 🙏✌
I see some plants in your photo collage at the end when you're telling us to see your patreon. I'm interested to see how you were able to scan those since there are so many overlapping and thin objects. I've only tried photoscanning a few times with varying success, but that's one that I never was able to get. Any time I had occluding objects, it seemed to just get one or the other. Tips and tricks for thin and occluding objects would be a sweet video.
4:05
you should always have bump's strength set to 1
and control the intensity by changing the distance
Why?
@@TheKBrosTech try it you will see the diffrence but basicaly you destroy the texture by lowering the strengh
Its not an accurate height map anyway...
For converting an actual height map into a normal map, you're absolutely right. But this is some arbitrary detail stolen from a colorimage... It's physically wrong anyway, so you cant mess up realistic details..... Just choose what looks better. And Ill tell you, for those color to height conversions it won't 100% always be distance. Especially flat objects that are very colorful dont want to protect the distance.
The distance on those heightmap conversions comes from dark/light colors in the diffuse.... They dont resemble distance at all. They dont indicate how far something should appear when you convert them from color... They only provide some microdetail at convenient spots. By using strength (and therefore destroying the distance accuracy) you'll effectively lower the impact of dark regions next to light regions while still keeping the details on both intact. So the wrong height information from different colors gets destroyed while it will still give you the microdetails.... In this case probably exactly what you want.
I discovered this on some procedural asphalt that had much lighter asphalt patches on it.... I took height from color and all the light patches looked like they were raised higher - the color tells it to do that. But by putting strength to 1 and lowering the distance to near 0 all those broad height informations got destroyed entirely only leaving the even pore details behind.
@@benhardwiesner6963 so much talk jeez..and all i need is.. "IT LOOKS BETTER" when you leave strenght to 1
@@888marcinb Its a white hydrant with dark rust on it! It will not look better to adjust distance on this. the distance is absolutely wrong for contrastful colorimages.
It would bump the rust 2cm in until some microdetail reaches the flat pieces. Adjust strength and it will uniformly transfer microdetail onto both the rust and the flat piece without creating a border around the transition.
Good tutorial, thanks, it's still a lot of work and time for such a simple object, it could be done faster+cleaner in modeling mode. I'll keep that tutorial in mind for very complex objects.
Taking the pictures is like looking at a 10 FPS video
Peter 42! I didn't even realize this was you!
Incredibly useful!😊
"And if there's people around wear your damn mask"
Lmao! Good one.
lol, bad one.
Thanks Peter!
just discovered your videos... nice work mate!
This is a fantastic tutorial mate nicely done!
PETER! I’m glad I found you!
V is helpful as well, it cuts the mesh along the edges you select. Personally Id rather re model the thing then bake the texture from the scan to my new model, Doesn't take much more time than sculpting and saves a ton on data too! then you can use it in games n stuff
Awesome tutorial Peter. Thanks a lot. 👍
peter: no shiny object
me: chrome wheels yessss
Fantastic! Thank you for the no BS tutorial.
I love photoscanning stuff. I was taunt in agisoft but I want to not break bank meshroom will do! Great video.
You’re the best, Peter thanks b :)
Damn bro
Next month will be fun
lots of tips for begainners like me thx
"An Hour our two"... I got a little overzealous with my A7R3 photo scanning and it took about 6 hours lol
Gl hf everyone getting into this, meshroom requires a Nvidia GPU with CUDA 2.0 or greater. You can try to customize the workflow to run through CPU only, but I warn you now it is a lot of work and totally worth it but get ready for a long journey.
Reality Capture seems to be now part of Unreal Engine ecosystem - we could use it for free
I am a big fan of Ian but
if someone making a fast video it's not a copy its just a great tutorial
Just so you know, you shouldn’t adjust the “Strength” on the bump node. Use distance instead
It should be insanely easy to scan objects with IPad or Iphones Camera + LIDAR Laser Sensor future stuff