Chevy Suburban 5.7 : Crank No Start Part II
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- In a previous video • Chevy Suburban 5.7 : C... I had a look at a 1999 Chevrolet Suburban that was towed in for a no start. It didn't take long to find out that the distributor gear was stripped out. I picked up a brand new one and it is time to get it fixed up. - Enjoy!
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Everyone in your area are very lucky to have such a competent mechanic/technician!
The only thing wrong with this video was it was too short. Love SMA videos.
Definitely! Lol
And there was no brake clean :-(
Fur Sure! It was a quick fix though. "There's your problem lady, stripped gear!"
Agreed 👍
You have been a big inspiration to me. I’m a 17 year old kid trying to be exactly like you. Really like the videos and learned a ton of diagnosing tips and tricks from you. Currently putting a brand used motor in my a4 and it has been a bitch in my garage. Watch your videos every night and always puts a smile on my face. Thanks for all the laughs. Have a good one.
-Conrad
Did you end up being a mechanic?
I used to have a '94 suburban with 450,000 KM's on it when I sold it. It was the original power train. I could get around 1,000 km's on a tank if I was doing straight highway. The lady who drove it before me used it to haul rabbit's around as she was a rabbit breeder. It was well looked after and she always used premium (91) fuel. I just used regular (87) fuel and never had a problem. Of course this was made when Chevy was good. Chevy, like a rock.
Mema was one helluva mechanic.
she was a smart cookie.
I have just recently been driving my 1994 6.5 Diesel Suburban while waiting for a replacement 300 Volt Hybrid Battery for my 2009 Yukon Hybrid for 5 months. It ran extremely well BUT, the steering was very loose after driving a Rack & Pinion setup in the Yukon. I replaced the R/H Outer Ball Joint and the Idler Arm Bearings and what a difference. 415,000 Kms and still the original front drive shafts, boots, rotors, & bearings. We don't have all the rust here on the West Coast, with almost no snow and salt. I have had 2 Suburbans and this Yukon over the last 40+ years and had great service with them. Great vehicles.
Nothing better than an SMA video on a Sunday afternoon. Great video, Mr. O.
I had a 97 suburban with really sloppy steering, the idler and Pittman arm were flopping around really badly, once they were replaced, it was like it was new again. Even after 180,000km, the alignment was almost perfectly spot on. I kinda miss that truck, it was super comfortable and a great family hauler
88-99 GM trucks were the best. All it took was a new distributor and it started right up and idled perfectly again. They can’t seem to make any truck that good anymore.
I absolutely love these old trucks! My daily is a 97 k1500 truck with 240k and I drive it 400 miles a week. My mom has a 98 suburban with 270k and it still runs great!
Love the new term - Tryagnostics! That's what you get at the dealer!
Down in Wilmington NC we need you. If your shop was a hundred miles closer I'd had have car for you. You need to be on TV.
This situation is how I ended up with my daily, Truck was running then died, lots of parts were swapped, checked the distributor and it was 180 out and loose like that, Replaced it, adjusted the idle by ear and its been from Middle GA to Northern IL and back.
As a young mechanic ive learned a lot from your videos and scanner danner its you guys that give me the gumption to keep pushing forward
warning!! no brake kleen or beans given in this video. :)
I knew things were missing maybe that's why it was so short.
Only some chevy thunder!
SMA is my favorite CZcams channel and I have no idea why. I’m not a mechanic nor do I have any particular interest in fixing cars but for some reason I’m obsessed with these videos.
I still have my 98 K1500 Silverado. It just hit 380,000 miles and the engine still runs as smooth as it ever has.
Great Homeric,my old 95 Suburban just hit 3)k on it,still runs strong and starts every cold winter day.Best truck I've ever owned
Xp
I drive a 99 K2500 suburban for work with only 260,000. Original engine and transmission, but have replaced many normal wear items over the years. The big difference is living in the Seattle area our bodies never rust so my work burb is in pretty nice shape. Keep up the great work, your video on the vacuum leak on a Silverado with the aftermarket intake saved me lots of money
350's... brings bake memories working with my dad, farming and logging. Thanks, Buddy!
Love watching you troubleshoot. Seems a lost skill.
Thought you should have changed the oil on the chance there might be loose stuff from the broken gear.
Hi eric and south main auto people, wow i love your channel! Ive been a mechanic all my life, (im 61) certified in michigan, owned my repair shop for twenty years. I like the way you explain stuff. At 61 im still learning. Keep up the excellent work! Wayne-- the revved up yooper
Hey there Mr. O. Walter here again. Well I asked for one and by cracky you delivered on a video on the old chevys. As I told you I have my 99 Tahoe with the famous 5.7L Vortec V8 in her and that it has 430,000 miles on her. Most of those are interstate. BTW, congrats to Douly Hamburg in the comments for making it to HALF MILLION. However, I just now am having to do the lower intake gasket on it. Maybe the head gaskets too. You know, since I in the neighborhood. Other than that I have not had to do any major repairs Just the wearable items that the old chevys and most old trucks have to do. Anywho, thanks again and plz keep em coming on the 5.7 whenever you can. Who knows, maybe we can change your neck of the woods to CHEVY THUNDER COUNTRY. LOL. As always, Love to you and Mrs. O. and all the little Os. Look forward to the next one
The Chrysler Slant-6 had a distributor one had to remove to do anything (points & condenser, for example). Got real good at sliding it back in. As soon as Mopar had an electronic ignition replacement, I got it. Suddenly not having to do points anymore was sort of like being set free.
YES, and why did they have that all low on the pasenger side where all the water and crap would go while the starter which i never replaced on a '64 Dart was on top? Alsoa plastic impeller on the water pump was the first failure on that.
great job you do if you take to the dealership they wont fix it. Tell you go and buy new one the truck is old it had its years if they fix it charge your eyes out. keep up the good work you do stay safe. in 2023
I sold an old 94 Jeep Cherokee to my brother-in-law with a worn out steering box. He got pulled over twice at the farm by the local police to see if he was drinking. They asked him politely to fix the Jeep. He sold it. LOL.
selling a problem is the best fix, that's what keeps used car dealers and parts stores open.
That's funny
It’s 3.56 am in the uk and I’m watching your videos love how you work outstanding mechanic eric from one ex mechanic to another
I freaking love the mid year 2011 to 2014 4x4 Suburbans. I will keep mine forever. They are awesome vehicles that do it all. ;)
I miss the old chevy 350 so cheap to fix ,great video great repair
200K and it's done. Front end, steering components worn out and what else is worn out. Well done, GM. Another informative video.
Dude is the “ Truck Whisperer”
I hope one day i at least know half of what he knows and i would be a proud fella.
Hats off to you sir.
some of your videos have helped me out of a couple jams, I was at my wits end but you seem to have the Chevy thing dialed in even though you're not a Chevy guy. Thanks for the assistance and keep up the great work. I appreciate it.
I’m not sure if you can do it, I can do it!!!
I have a 1998 gmc 1500. 140k on it. It just decided not to start. I’m going to check fuel pressure and spark and go from there.
Thank you very much. This video and past ones have been very informative. You are a good mechanic with sound fundamentals.
Respectfully, Doug Lambert
This is a great video. Shows real craftsmanship in troubleshooting and I admire your thoughtfulness for sure.. keep them coming.
Hopefully they get another 50K out of it... thanks for working on this old stuff, down here in no-salt land we still see it often enough.
around here thats a fairly new model vehicle we see a lot of em that age and they still fetch a decent resale price
1990 gmc 1500 with the 3 fiddy. All most 300000 miles and still going. Not saying it's like new, but she will still get you there.
SAME HERE MINE IS A 93 CHEVY 350 WITH 320000 MILES STRONGEST TRUCK IVE EVER SEENand xuper reliable
"but she will still get you there." and that's all you need.
I recently went back and watched your 5 part series on the Subaru head gasket, circa 2015. At some point over the last 4 years you really got your moxie on to go with your outstanding teaching skills. Well done!
I have EXACTLY the same problem on 97 Silverado 5.7 . I'll let you know if this is the culprit
The older Chevy motors were hard to beat, especially before computers.
just got done installing a new distributor in a S
-10 pickup. ended up with the money light coming on and a cam/crank correlation code. messed with it a little then ended up pulling the distributor back out. low and behold, a new distributor from naper, as you'd call it, had the gear 180 degrees out. removed roll pin turned gear, installed dist. no more problem. guess it pays to look over parts darn good before installing them
That's what I loved about old school mopars big block and small block, drop in a distributor and they were in or 180 out. The leaning tower of power was a different story.
like a B300 van with distributor in back and whole tune-up could be done from Driver seat elctronic ignition was a god send unless it failed.
Good old workhorse. I had a '96 Tahoe that made it to 329k miles. I traded it for a van because I couldn't get it to idle under 1500.
These videos are really helping me a lot. I knew right away it was probably the gear on the distributor.
I have owned 7 chevy v8s on 3 I got to change the plastic cam drive sprocket. I would get a 57 chevy cast iron sprocket and chain. other than that they ran and ran without anything going wrong. 200k is easy for a chevy if you use good filters and oil. servicing at reasonable intervals.
Thanks for the follow-up video. Nothing better than an SMA video!
I have a 97 Sub with 215K on it. The noise for that engine is normal at that mileage. It goes away for me after 5min of running for me in warm weather and about 10min in the cold winter.
Damn thought my beast had a lot play in the steering, heck that truck makes mine look like it handles like a Vette.
I liked how you got right to the problem. This poor soul tried his best to fix it but just poured a ton of money on parts to it.
I wished you check out the steering to show us what the problem was. It would be instructional for us viewers and it will take you very little time.
Saved another Chivvy! Thanks Dr. O!
Really appreciate all the help you give. Ive learned more from you and etcg and s danner then i have in all my years of schooling. Thanks so much
My 97 suburban is having the same issue crank no start and sounds the same and you've given me some more stuff to look at thank you man and wish me luck!
Hi Wyatt. Did you find out the problem? I've replaced the ignition control module on my 99 twice in the past year or so and it fixed the problem. Not today though. Did your need a distributor like the video? I'm stumped. Thanks.
Eric, Cut that shield off your remote button, you will LOVE the better control of bumping the button against the v/c, or a/c, etc.... Just sayin....Btw, Your great !!,
Loved it ! Laughed and learned the whole time.the distributor was crap to begin with.good diagnosis!you have to start somewhere.
No distributor wrench LOL. That gear is so common. I know I'm late as all get out. But enjoy your videos.
I think you just helped me diagnose my issue with a 91 sierra
I like my old '99 C2500 Suburban. Drive her daily and she runs great. Even when we went into the deep freeze up here she didn't complain too much for the block heater not working. I run full synthetic oil in the winter though. I even have those same after market mirrors on mine. Awesome as always Eric. Thanks.
Those were two great videos. Great diagnose regarding the culprit being the distributor. Thanks for Me Ma helping you out!
Nice fix Eric. I have a soft spot for the ol' 350's.
'Merica...
@@SouthMainAuto
...F'ck Yeah!
Working on my '95 Suburban K1500 4x4, over 400k miles and ran like a new truck up until a couple months ago. Then it just started dying coming up to occasional stops, but would start right back up and run perfect until the next time it stopped, changed fuel pump and filter, kept getting worse, finally wouldn't even idle at running temperature. Replaced EGR valve, idle air control valve, map sensor, throttle position sensor, and still no change. Replaced the ignition control module and lost spark, so replaced the coil, and still no spark. Just got a new crank positioning sensor and getting ready to put that in tomorrow or the next day. I think the guy that put in the ignition control module may have inadvertently knocked a wire or connection loose or something - I won't know until I get under the hood myself. Wish me luck, this truck is in awesome condition and I hope to have it for many years to come.
Those 350's last forever! Talk him into putting u-joints into the rear drive shaft. I've seen them get so bad that they will break the transmission case at the transmission mount area.
My tahoe has the same issue, changed everything except distributor so this sounds about right. Even has the loose steering.
The nice thing with blowing blue smoke is you never have to change the oil... just add another quart!
Until your valves won't close anymore and compression is out of the window
The Avoca cops probably figure if they see a strange vehicle racing around the streets, it's probably Eric O. :)
Probably don't even have cops, just a state patrol cop who's job it is to drive by once a month to make sure the town hasn't burnt down....
@@ckm-mkc...we drove by a few times a week on our way to the diner.
I like how you explained it all got to say that I've learned a lot watching your program n thanks for the kownagle
I know from experience to never ever assume a new part works. I had a suburban with a bad coil. Changed it with a new one and it fired up and quickly turned off and wouldn’t fire again. This sent me down the road of shooting a parts cannon at it replacing all kinds of parts getting fed up towing it to a shop only to be told the new coil was bad and was running great with a new coil.
Smooth as rocks in a metal garbage can!!
😂
Was having the same issue with an s10 and fixed it the same way I love you guys thank u for all the great SMA
#SMA
I enjoyed your video on 99 suburban troubleshooting , i am having similar problems with mine, same 99 350. This gives me new things to check out on mine. Thanks
I had a 97 suburban that had over a quarter turn of slop in the steering. A real treat to drive in the snow and blow.
Thanks for these videos man been trying to figure out why my friends suburban was doing the same exact crank I start and binds up while cranking
I replaced the lower intake manifold on my 1999 Suburban. I lined up the timing marks on the balancer and the front of the engine and the rotor was pointing to #1 on the distributor cap. The truck will crank and almost start. I didn't find any codes when I attached my scan tool. The only thing I can reckon is the rotor wasn't exactly pointing to #1 and I'm still off a tooth or two on the distributor. I'll find out tomorrow. Keep up the great work.
Not sure why thumbs down??? GOOD job Mr. O
Hey Just rebuilt my original distributor with GM parts in my 89 K5 5.7 because the aftermarket ones are garbage. Great to see just how’s its done old school with a little of new school mechanics. Excellent video
Greetings from Mexico! This video helped me with one of my customers 🎉
Entonces podemos asumir que es común el problema...
The gear was totally worn, I managed to get a replacement shaft and rebuild it :) idk if it’s a common problem, this truck had like 300k miles
@@miguelrocha768 Very common. I was a tech at a Chevy dealer frome the late 90s through the 2000s and replaced several of them. Mostly under warranty, but I got fast at them. Snap-on 13mm wobble long 3/8 extension and a ratchet was the easiest way to get the hold down bolt. Just have to remember the dist drops down twice.
@@autotech2143 Can this be done without a scan tool? Can it be done differently than shown in video. Yes, I know the main thing is to have tdc.
@@zoneb609 si, definitivamente es bastante común.
I've found it cheaper with more peace of mind with less labor in the long run to change the whole distributor the first sign of distributor failure instead of one piece at a time just to have it back apart again in 6 months r so
Chevy.....Like a Rock!
It’s a lost art manual diagnostic. Like the old school art of a welding the distributor weights at full advance and setting timing between 32 and 38 degrees advance total timing . for some time travel at warp speed .
Was the time when you could rebuild a worn out distributor - don't miss those days at all... Distributorless ignition for the win.
I don't know how you do it Eric O. Fixing other peoples screw ups after the hit it with the new parts shotgun. I spent all day putting an ION engine back together that an old timer tore apart. Didn't mark where any of the exhaust bolt. Intake bolt throttle body connectors nothing! Now I want blasted with a shotgun! Keep up the great work. You inspire me.
Bill Ziegmond saw a tshirt ”mechanic, skilled enough to take it apart, patient enough to put it together and smart enough to hide the leftover parts”
@@jonasthemovie I just kept digging. Found the guy didn't put the front o2 sensor back in the car. What a pain in the butt!
Now you can tell about drive line and the free play on front end. Good video brother.
Chevy Thunder FTW!
I have a 99 suburban k1500 with the 5.7. I bought a crate engine for it with all new goodies. I could not get it to run correctly for anything. Similar random misfire issues. Turns out the $200 ACCEL distributor was the issue. The shaft was bent.
heh @ anti-accel!
It’s a good thing your Memaw taught you so much. She really knew her stuff.
I’ve got 394,000 miles on my ‘94 Suburban.
I've got 22,000 miles on my '99 Tahoe.
157,000 on my 98 c1500 Silverado 5.7L
Got unknown on my 88 Foxbody the odometer stopped working 20 years ago 😂🇺🇸
i've got 205k on my 99 suburban.
My first GMC Suburban was a 1976 3/4 Ton, bought new off the lot in 1977, asking $8,689.00 for $7,000.00 Cash. Drove it 17 Years and 270,000 Miles, then sold it for $3,000.00. Bought a new 1994 3/4 Ton GMC Suburban with a 6.5 Turbo Diesel, off the lot March 24, 1994 for $37,500.00, drove it 380,000 Kms by Dec. 6, 2010 when I bought the New Yukon Hybrid. I could not sell the Diesel Suburban as no one seemed to want it, so I still have it with 415,000 on it now. My Yukon is a 2009 GMC Yukon Hybrid with a 6.0 Litre, and probably my favourite although all have been great. The Hybrid has over 210,000 Kms on it and 9 years in service. I just had to replace the 300 Volt Battery for $4,600.00 but had to wait 5 months for it. Drives like brand new again. I will probably have to replace the ORIGINAL brake pads ONLY in about another 20,000 Kms. The Hybrid has been amazing, and I regularly pull a 6,000 Pound Travel Trailer with it. I drove 6,000 Kms from Vancouver Island, through Death Valley, the Grand Canyon, Marble Canyon, Salt Lake, and home. Fantastic 5 week trip. Fuel Burn for the trip was 12 Miles / US Gallon towing the trailer. Most 5.7 Litre Tahoes don't get much better by themselves. By itself, it is very consistent around 21 MPG. The drive system is smooth and very powerful being Continuously Variable Ratio. (They do amazing things with Two 63 Kw, 80 Hp, Electric Motor/Generators in the transmission!) The Hybrid also has No Starter, No Alternator, No Power Steering Pump, No Vacuum Pump, No Torque Convertor, No "First" Gear, and No "Reverse Gear. The Air-conditioning is 300 Volt, Variable Speed, 3 Phase Electric, so it runs just enough to do the job, increasing speed if extra cooling is needed, and does NOT "Cycle On & Off" like normal Automotive Air Conditioners, even running when the engine is stopped. (72 Degrees inside at 120 Degrees outside.) The 2 best were the Diesel Suburban and the Hybrid Yukon, both of which I still have. Both of which are no longer built with the last Diesel in about 2000 when the Duramax came out, and the last Hybrid in 2013. All 3 have been great vehicles and good dependable value.
You continue (pt II) to do awsome!
Aluminum distributor hell yeah!!!!!!!!👍👍👍👍
I recently changed my distributor 2001 Chevy express van I learned a new trick I took a compression tester you some random rubber hose Connect hose to compression tester Started the truck from inside looking down upon the distributor I saw distributor one on compression. hope this helps sumbody. You could feel compression and see distributor on number one.
Super duper common. I've replaced dozens and dozens of them over the years. Because the cam and drive gear are a much harder steel, the drive gear usually suffers zero damage. The biggest potential issue is that all that metal that's ground off goes through the rest of the motor potentially shortening the life of bearings in the motor. I've never had one come back for a blown motor though. Those cast iron 350s are tough as nails motors for the most part!
My mom has a 98 GMC K1500 and it has a lot of slop in the worm gear of the steering. Great job Eric hope to catch the next one.
I've got me a 99 Suburban wïth 256,xxx - it does take 3 hands to keep it tracking straight down the road. You should do a video and show us how to fix that!
I would but most people do not want to fix these old cars... if it runs that is good enough
Either replace the rag joint at the gearbox end of the steering shaft or better yet. Take the rag joint, throw it in the trash, and get an aftermarket steering shaft U-joint kit and never have to worry about the rag joint again (most replacement rag joint kits either suck and wear out quick or don't fit. Looking at you, Dorman). Along with making sure your steering components are tight, that would be the first step. Then move to the steering shaft.
The pitman arm was shot on mine causing all over the road wondering. Just have somebody gently work the steering wheel back and forth while you look around under the hood and truck. You will probably see what's loose soon enough. Parts for these old Chevy's are pretty cheap, so fire the parts cannon if you have too.
Have to check all the steering components. A lot of times with that many miles the steering box will have a lot of wear. The steering box can be adjusted to tighten it up, but for $160 you can get an Acdelco off rockauto. I had to pull a 6x12 uhual trailer with mine being worn like in this video. Not fun.
@@OOOOOO12345 Check to see if the tires have the right load rating. I've seen many people put the wrong tires on.
I'm pretty excited. No, not for the video. For the SMA shirt that's getting delivered today!
Im glad it was an easy one!
Mine ran like crap without the mass air flow sensor hooked up as well. Good tips on the video...thanks!
394k miles just swapped out original distributor on my 94 Burban, runs like new, almost.
I found out quickly Eric......lol. One good backfire and a knocking rod later........it only cost me $1400.00 for a new long block. It was my son's engine so we opted to replace instead of repair.
I was watching one of those car shows on TV and they didn't know to bring up number one on compression to drop the distributor in on a small block Chevy. Works on other makes also. lol One of my kids has my old '99 Yukon with a 5.7 and it has 340k plus miles on it and it's still running pretty good.
Time for a Seafoam commercial Eric!!!!
'Merica! Chevy Thunder! Got that old bird going again. If valve guides are worn, then the top end is getting lubrication is what Dad would say. My '00 Yukon had the horrible piston slap, synthetic oil cured it mostly except in the dead of winter then it would last just a few seconds. Got to love SBC's! I just got one for my old '64 C10, now needs to stop raining so I can work on it!!!!!!!
I’m just here to read all the comments from the GM experts...
I really enjoy your videos, can learn a lot from your troubleshooting.
What a difference 40 years make. Back then a miss would have caused a diy guy to replace plugs, then wires and distributor cap and then the distributor. Now, it’s load up the parts cannon and replace MAF, throttle pos sensor etc etc.
Ive had this issue out of an identically same vehicle. Turned out to be the pigtail to the crank sensor. Easy enough fix.