The Great Dressform Debacle aka how (not) to pick a dressform
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- Hello everyone and welcome to a new video!
I got a new dressform in the sewing room and I thought it might be useful for me to share my dressform experience. I first started off with an Adjustform Lady Valet in Size S, then I made a Bootstrap Patterns dressform, and now I have a vintage Stockmann dressform. They're all different. I only recently discovered padding, which I think gives you so much more flexibility with dressforms, you can use it on all kinds as long as the starting point is smaller than the finished measurement you're trying to achieve. So in the video, I talk you through the advantages and disadvantages of an adjustable dressform, a self-made Bootstrap Patterns dressform, and I try my hand at padding up the vintage dressform.
I got my dressform cover from Vintage Style Mannequins (vintagestylemannequins.co.uk/) and the vintage Stockman is from Etsy.
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I love my Bootstrap dress form. She's exactly my size, completely pinable, and easily cinched for my thinner days. The trick is to find the various CZcams videos by people who already conquered the problems and then to read the instructions carefully before you begin. Take your time! Repeat: TAKE YOUR TIME! If you're still confused got get something to drink and a snack. Maybe sleep on it. Then go back and do it again. Follow the steps EXACTLY even if they don't seem to make sense. Also, don't use plain fabric. I bought a fantastic vintage-looking paisley print in heavy-weight cotton. I absolutely love her.
When I purchased my bootstrap pattern, I didn't do the custom size option because I was being frugal and was worried about taking my measurements wrong. I bought the digital plus size set, which came with sizes 16-28 (?) And I made up the one that matched my smallest measurement (for me that's under bust) and padded up the rest. I put one of my old but still well fitting bras on it and stuffed the cups. It has been a journey coming to accept that's what my body looks like but I dressing her up helps. I'm working on skirts for a ball gown right now and just threw a tight undershirt on over the top and seeing that silhouette makes it feel more like me. It's still love to get a really nice $600+ form but that's so out of my budget for the foreseeable future.
I'm so glad Bootstrap worked for you! I haven't ruled them out for the future, the concept really interests me, and I think your method is really cool ☺️
I made a Bootstrap form for my daughter and traumatized her.
It may be our size, but it's not representative of what we look like at all. Nobody ever looks at just our short, limbless torso with no place for the eye to rest on a flattening, fattening expanse or pale fabric.
It's better for my daughter if the form is wearing flattering clothes but it's still been hidden in my closet since I made it.
@Geri Lee have you ever considered filming your sewing processes? There's definitely a space and audience for small-time makers of all different dress sizes here on CZcams that I'm sure would love to watch you make your ballgown. Plus, these days our phone cameras are so good you don't need much else, mabe just a mic, a basic editing software and time. You could start a patreon and eventually buy the dress form of your dreams. Personally I'd be very curious to follow along your sewing journeys- judging by your comment I think I'd really enjoy listening to your commentary and watching your process. Best of luck to you with your Bootstrap form and gown! 💙
@@rburns8083 So sad 😢 no little girl should look at a form of their body and feel bad. Such a shameful outcome of modern society.
One reason why I love sewists on YT like Abby Cox and Bernadette Banner, and fashion historian Karolina Zebrowska is they've all made videos talking about the misconception that women in history all had perfect, tiny waists and would throw health and safety out the window to tight-lace their corsets way down- when historically women would pad out their hips and bust to achieve the fashionable silhouette at any size. Vs nowadays when to be fashionable you have to be a size 4, and if we're not, we're either told to change our 'unhealthy' body or conceal our 'imperfections.' Padding makes you 'fake' (nevermind that most women in media are covertly photoshopped in every image and its impossible to tell) Sure we've made gains in the last decade with more representation but ads everywhere still tell us we can fix anything we are unhappy with (implying we should be!) if only we buy something....
Whoops, went off on a little tangent there. My bad 😅 I think it's super sweet that you made a dress form and clothes for your daughter. Honestly I admire anyone who can turn a few yards of fabric into a wearable garment.
@@kelseydalziel3514 thank you so much for your message. I have wanted to start a channel for a long time but it is scary to start. Then I get nervous about my skills and stop filming when I have tried to record my progress.
The thing with the Bootstrap patterns is that while they ask for a lot of measurements they also have a lot "which picture matches your body" type questions about things like posture and how perky the bustline is, etc. That's just not an accurate way to take measurements. I think this is why so many people have issues with these patterns. I applaud their intentions but the process needs some tweeking.
I think Bernadette Banner has a dress form from a place that physically scans your body and makes an exact copy dress form for you, but I imagine it’s a very expensive option. And Morgan Donner made her own using a plaster cast of her and expanding foam, which seems like a good but very involved option. I’m not sure what I’ll do when I have the space for a dress form. I’m not even sure which shape to get because I’m a trans guy. I can guarantee no non-custom male or female dress form will match my shape, even with my measurements lol.
I have made a plaster cast and expanding foam version for myself more than 20 years ago. Yes it was very involved. It required to friends plaster covering me for several hours and then 2 or 3 days work on my own to fill the plaster cast after it had been cut off me (which was an exercise in itself). It was the first thing that has given me any confidence in fitting around my shoulders and back of my neck. To capture the shoulder slope and the forward pitch of my shoulders revolutionised my sewing.
In the years since I have gained weight and my body has shifted shape so the original no longer fits. I had my son make me a paper tape cover and I stuffed between it and the original foam form. Paper tape is not very durable however and it has started to come to pieces too.
I am glad of this video adding to other reviews which have convinced me that the bootstrap pattern is unlikely to be satisfactory for me. I think what I shall do next is to try padding up my original form, much as Cat has done here with her vintage form. I will then do the best that I can to make a snug fitting body shell (i.e. no ease) and use that as a cover for the form. To make it possible for that snug fit body shell to be put on and off my body, and the dress form, I intend to use zips on centre front, centre back and side seams.
You're referring to Beatrice Forms, they cost $1,500 USD currently. If your size changes significantly, they'll do a new one for you for 1/2 price.
@@Anonymous-zk7yk Yes they are great but they are USA/Canada only.
I've sewed for a couple of my friends who are trans, and have found that my adjustable dress form works quite well for trans women who are early in their hormone journey, but not great for trans men who use a binder. I think the binder is moving things to the side and creating width across the chest that is quite hard to replicate in padding. For trans men who have had top surgery and have taken hormones for longer, yeah, not a chance of making an off the rack dress form fit. If you decide to go down the plaster cast route, apparently the bandages used in A&E for making casts work much better than modroc type plaster covered bandages. They use fiberglass with polyurethane I think? It sets harder, faster, and is waterproof so if you sweat a lot it doesn't change shape. I've been looking into thermoplastics as an option as I can't stand for long enough to make a cast, but I'll need to do more research for that.
Oh I’m gonna look into this! She’s great her almightnpocket video helped me so much and her Victorian only fans video was hilarious
In a perfect world, we would be able to walk into a 3D scanning booth, stand there in our underwear, and come out with a digital model that can be used to sculpt blocks of foam that can be stacked into a dress form shape. A laser cutter could make short work of cutting the exact contours of the cross-section slices based on the digital data, with a pre-cut circle with a registration shape to align the numbered slices and serve as the 'spine' of the form and support armature. Why is this not a thing already, it seems like a super obvious idea that would be useful for the made-to-order garment industry as well as serious home sewists.
It would be fantastic !
There is a tually a company making those, costing about 1500 usd… canot remember the name but easy to find with google
@@Makapida Beatrice forms
Newer iPhones can do this! They can't make the form, obviously, but they CAN scan and compile a 3D model of pretty much anything!
The company is called, "dittoform." They are $2,000 so not in most people's budget. I'm making a Bootstrap dress form now.
At least you know now that you’re not the only one who had issues with that pattern. The new dress form looks great, hopefully it works well for you.
Back in 2015 I had to make 5 bridesmaid dresses and most of the ladies lived out of town. We made duck tape forms for me to use for fitting. Many videos were available online. The most important thing is making it tight enough. I put plastic wrap along their lower neck before wrapping the tape since the t-shirt collars didn't go up far enough. Cut them off with surgical scissors up the center back (make marks for rejoining!). Tape the cut back together and stuff them with old newspaper and seal the bottom with a piece of old cardboard. It worked beautifully! I would sit the form on a tall stool but you could make a pole holder as well.
I bought an adjustable one from Amazon, then padded the tummy/hip area and stuffed an old bra to my measurements. Then I put a spanx like shapewear/slip on it for pinning. I complain when I wear it, but she never says a word about how tight it is!
🤣🤣
My dressform is a mixture of your last two options. I used a cheap styrofoam display mannequin I bought for under 50€ at ebay as a base and padded it to my size, making sure I follow my shape as close as possible and added an old but fitting bra to make shaping the bust easier for me. Than I sewed up the custom dressform cover bootstrap has. Without my own base the fit wouldnt be great but because the fabric is stretchy and I made sure my base is as close to me as possible for me at the moment it works fine. At least for leveling hems and such. I didnt use it for pattern drafting yet.
This seems like a great solution, thanks for sharing!
Pretty much what I am doing right now. additionally i have a mockup of my corset and will be using that to shape
I bought a cheap dressform on Amazon for about $60. Then I got a yard of black knit fabric. And a bag of stuffing.
Everything worked great and I was able to create a body double. I put my clothes on it and it had the exact same fit issues as me or fit properly clothes that fit me.
Sidenote: Having one of these can trigger you if you have body dysmorphia.
I have to speak with my therapist about it, but I gained a lot of weight during covid when I was forced to live in a toxic/a b u s i v e home.
I have had issues with my body for a long time, but about 10 years ago, at about 19, I lost 120 lbs.
Seeing the dressform with my new measurements made me face the feelings that I have about the weight I have gained and it was just kind of triggering some suppressed body issues.
I love myself, but I was a bit ashamed and I missed the way I used to look and my clothes used to fit. I need to deal with all of that. Just to get over it now, I de-padded my dressform back down to a size 8/10. And put an old outfit on there. I have just been sewing purses and backpacks and stuff while I try to get myself physically and mentally healthy again.
I'm currently a 16/18 and I hadn't thought I had gained that much weight but, I realized that, yeah... I am a bit heavier than I thought.
Anyway thought I'd share. Maybe someone can relate 😅
Edit: I started reading the comments and I am less sad knowing pretty much everyone has felt similar stuff 🥰
I got the first type of form you showed but with the knowledge it would need padding. It took me 3 weeks to get it right but in the end most of it can be pinned into because of all the padding and bonus points for durability when she gets nocked over. I also got it on a Black Friday sale so it was half off. $150 US. If you go this route you need to buy the form that is smaller than you are. Then set the measurements up an inch or 2 smaller on the waist and hips so you can fill the gaps with padding. Give it an old bra and i used outdoor upholstery padding, covered it with an old tank top and I’ve always been happy with it.
I love my bootstrap dressform. I have a narrow back and short waist. Standard dress forms don't work for me. What I really like about it is that I can corset it and it squishes (I don't squeeze down much so it works for me). I mostly use it for working out trim placement because I hardly ever drape even though I know how.
"Dressmaker's dummy." That's the other term you were looking for.
Watching this while putting off padding out my Shop Company dress form. Had to get a Size 0 because it was the only one that's as short-waisted as I am, with the same narrow shoulders. I am NOT a Size 0.
The bust on the Bootstrap one is too low, from looking at you next to it, which throws off the back, probably. Don't think you could fix it without totally remaking it, unfortunately. Glad you discussed this as I've been planning to buy one for absolute years!
I've watched a bunch of reviews of the Bootstrap dress form, and almost every single one showed the bust ending up at least an inch low. I'm not sure if there is something confusing about the instructions for measuring that is causing everyone to get it wrong, or if it's just a feature of their patterning. One reviewer recommended putting in numbers that will get the bust an inch higher than what you actually measure for. I suppose that is a risk in and of itself, but if I were buying the pattern I'd probably do it because the problem seems pretty consistent.
I've learned in school that you're supposed to pin sideways, as in trough the top layer on the dress form - staying inside the top layer and behind the calico - and then out again trough the dressform, so that you lock the calico in place. No pinning straight in..
I would completely second your experience with a bootstrap dressform--my measurements match mine, but... the fit is completely off. My shoulders have a very different shape and the bust position is off enough that nothing that fits me fits it correctly. I use mine more like a mannequin to display things on and be able to step back, and figure out the look of a project--like pleat placement, trims, etc.
I had hoped I could at least use it for leveling skirt hems, but since I am very pear shaped and the padding of the dressform does not align with my real-life padding distribution, no luck. I've found a workable solution sans dressform where I use a chalk hem marker + my phone to record a video of my hem markings afterwards next to something for measure. I record, spin, and check the video to see if things look level-enough and adjust markings as needed. Lots more trial + error than just getting a friend to help, but when working solo it does the trick.
Hope your newest dressform matches your measurements better!
I'm sorry it didn't work out for you! It sounds like we had the same problem 😅
Is there nobody to operate the hem marker for you? I found that both my brother and my husband are able to achieve a good result. Anybody who does anything with their hands, actually.
Before I owned the chalk blower I once went to a tailor to have a coat hem marked. They wanted no pay, just pointed me to their coffee break piggy bank.
I love this! We all struggle with this problem and it's nice to see someone share experiences. Below is my take on the situation of dress forms vs. actual people.
I don't think it matters much what type of dress form you get. What matters most is finding one that can be padded to resemble you the best. We use terms to describe ourselves like "short-waisted" and it seems most of us fall into that category. The proportions on larger standard sizes tend to mirror proportions of smaller standard sizes so the waist becomes farther away from the neck and the shoulders get wider as we go up in standard sizing. Sadly, this is not the case for our real bodies since our skeletons don't magically elongate to redistribute weight gain proportionally. So if you think of a dress form as more of a skeleton with the bare minimum "padding" on it, you can find one that more truly mirrors your internal structure. In other words, aim for a smaller size that matches key locations like waist to neck vertically and shoulder to shoulder horizontally. This means more padding for someone like me than what you showed on your new dress form, but happily that is just more fluff for me to pin into.
This is the same problem I run into when trying to use "patterns". The measurements on the pattern that fit my bust/waist/hips always end up putting my waist too low and my shoulders and back way too wide. I gave up on using those years ago. Currently, I am working on a self-drafted bodice pattern following a tutorial I found that uses "standard" measurements. I have drafted a size 18 and made a mockup (yes, the waist was too low and the shoulders were like football player size) and drafted a size 6 that I then did a full bust adjustment to and have not mocked up in fabric yet. The size 6 is looking way more promising in the shoulders and waist placement. If it works out correctly, I'll then use it as a guide to padding out my old dial-up adjustable dress form to match me better and possibly use it as the dress form cover.
Thanks Cat!
Oh, yeah, I also had a friend who made the bootstrap pattern recently, and she actually tried it on herself to make sure it would fit/match her body before finishing it off, stuffing it, etc. I don't know if Bootstrap actually suggests that, but I feel like it could be a good way to make adjustments if they are needed. Does kind of suck to do when you've put in your measurements for a "custom" fit, though.
It mentions specifically to not do it for to negative ease. I'm stubborn so I think I'll still try it tho lol
@@mackerelle9789 I sewed the seams a bit generously on my mock up, tried it on, and then sewed the seams to account for the negative ease when I made mine.
@@starkysorcha2310 I think I'll try that. First, I'll need to get a better grasp of what ease is haha
I did this as well, but still recommend 4/8" seams over the 3"8" recommended. This will make it so the form is firm. However the bust on mine still does not seem right.
For the padding, I’ve usually seen the polyester wadding laid down and then steamed with a steamer. It sort of felts down into a more solid layer that is easily pinned into. The new dress form looks great. Enjoy!
I did mine with wool quilt batting and it worked really well.
I’ve been down this rabbit hole too. The main issue I think is that although we measure xyz around the waist for example we are not completely ‘round’ so although you have the correct measurement the distribution is off - in my case my back portion is narrower than the front. The most success I’ve had was a ‘duct tape body double’ which was made with heavy gummed paper tape not the plasticy stuff. I did this with a friend, wearing my corset with a tight fitting t-shirt over the top. The t-shirt stays as the inner shell & you have to be cut out of it. My only gripe is that it was still a tad too big once taped back together. I guess the t-shirt and gummed tape layers added to the overall measurements.
I learned in a workshop how to make mine with gummed brown paper tape. It’s like the duct take one, but the avantage of the gummed tape is that it stiffens as it dries so it can stand on it’s own. No need to stuff the inside.
Now THIS was very interesting!!! Which workshop was this? I am very interested in this method actually. And I was curious about the stuffing bit. I had read that women in the 30s and 40s did this to make their dress forms and then stuffed them with newspaper. Thank you for any information in advance 💕😊
@@lynneeie5226 It was a workshop given in a local fabric store, long gone. We applied these strips of tape that had to be soaked in water, but then became very stiff once dry. There was no need to stuff. We worked in teams of two to apply the tape to each other.
First, you had to wear a t-shirt that was tight on your body, for the base of the dress form. The tape was applied in two layers, neck to base of hips. First layer was up and down. The second layer was in a criss-cross pattern. Then we let the whole thing dry. Once dry, cut the dress form up the back. (It was very tight on the body at this point. I could barely breathe.) Close the cut with more tape, and round out the edges.
Attach the dress form to a base, and cover with a thin layer of batting and fabric for pinning.
@@deckharlot Thank you so much! I am going to try this 😊
Morgan Dinner did a video of making a custom form using plaster of Paris bandages and expanding foam insulation you may want to check out. I had thought about making a duct tape form the putting the bandages on or in that to avoid having to stand around in plaster for hours but haven't tried it.
The other problem I had with my duct tape form other than getting it to stay straight on the dowel, was that the tape had been pulled too tight and my body was not shaped correctly. The final product was similar to what Cat is dealing with with the bootstrap pattern. It's really hard, even with a friend helping, to get the tape just the right amount of snugness without it being so tight it moves your fat layers into new positions that don't work for certain outfits.
Duct tape shrinks with age making it a less than helpful body double after a very short time.
My first dress form was made in the duct tape method but I used glue backed paper tape, which avoided a lot of the over tightening, and stretching issues that duct tape has, but it does need a thing layer of wadding over it to make it pinnable.
Did you ever measure from you side seams around just your bust or just your back, and to see if you are "front" or "back" disproportionate? Just the circumference doesn't tell you everything, if you have a very large chest and a narrow back or a broad back and small chest the distance around would be the same but your pattern pieces would look very different.
I had this problem when trying to size up an existing pattern. I kept only measuring the circumference of my body and then splitting that measurement into 1/4 for the pattern pieces but the mock up wasn't fitting correctly until I measured each quarter of my body separately.
@@gabriellespanke Yeah I just have a very large bust so every pattern needs adjustment. If you have a close fitting garment like a bodice block or corset those can give you an idea if you measure where the fullness is, but they have to already fit well which doesn't help if you're just starting.
I made my dress form from gladwrap, duct tape and newspaper. Surprisingly it works well! I got help to wrap the gladwrap around me (wearing old shorts and t-shirt underneath in case they got cut later and it didn't matter) then the duct tape went on over the glad wrap, cut it up one side of my body so I could get out, tape up the side and stuffed it up really well with newspapaer. my husband made a baseboard with a hole in it for the form to sit on, and the stand is a broomstick with a clamp to hold it up under the board and I can adjust the height. The only problem it has is that we didn't buy any support things for the board on the floor so it's currently being propped up with paving stones. which isn't fun because I keep kicking them! One day I will remember to actually go get some support strut things for it. Everything I've made on it has actually fit and it cost less than $20. The newspsper I got free, the wood and paving stones too, we already had gladwrap at home, so all I paid for was 2 rolls of duct tape that was on special, the broomstick and a little clamp.
Small Christmas tree stand??
Having made some of those blunders. I would like to recommend Redthreaded's padded up dress form tutorial video. If you ever saw one of those adjustable dress forms on sale, and you thought "I will buy that, so I can finally draft something for myself. You never do, and then your brother precedes to borrow it, and break all the gears by trying making it fit him. Well the answer to that is to shrink it down as tiny as you can, and then pad it up with cotton batting to the correct dimensions and cover it with a fitted t-shirt from the store, you can then make it fit anyone. I saw an ancient woven reed one in a second hand store but thoughtlessly did not get it.
Sometime this summer I'm going to sit down and take the time to draft up my own dress form, and then make it, I will probably fill it with sawdust and pool noodles, and use an upholstery needle with a really strong thread to keep its shape. I might even make it smaller than I am, so that I can padd it up as well.
I made Bootstrap dressforms for my daughter and myself, and used them to make corsets from scratch in order to be able to adjust to our very specific bodies. It became clear early in the process that having grown up with a competent seamstress for a maternal grandmother and a mother who knew most of that but rarely used it was hugely beneficial! Even my very first sewing project as a teenager, copying the pattern of my favourite shirt fit to a fabric that suited me better proved beneficial since that had made me understand arm shape and how the garment needs to move.
I am currently redoing my corset, as I want to haul up and keep my lower tummy inside the corset instead of under it. This has made it clear that no dressform I have seen yet allows you to properly factor in the way the front of your legs interacts with the lower belly while sitting (plus plus plus size), nor is it possible to properly try out how to lift and shape parts of the body unless that is a function of an existing pattern (including a bra). I find myself fantasizing about getting a fake skeleton and dress it with "muscles" made of padding inside elastic "socks", as any proper garment has to move with the body inside. If your ribcage is close to your natural waist, you can not just use a standard pattern. The same goes if any part of your body is out of proportion to the rest, such as having a large bust but a completely normal back (I suspect that your Bootstrap problem might stem from adding front excess to the back, especially overbust and underbust).
They don't do dressforms with my body shape att all, so the hubby made me one, from scratch using foam (or a foam-ish material the same he uses to sculpt molds for plastic bike covers) and carving knifes.
He made it a little smaller than me and then we padded it up where it needed more padding (bust manely) and then I made a cover from a streatchy fabric and it works perfectly....total cost...well in your money about £100.
So worth it.
Im glad you are feeling better and able to make a video! Good luck with the move!
Good luck Cat! She looks great!
Absolutely it is helpful to learn from the things other ppl tried. Thanks for sharing!
The finished result looks REALLY good!
Thank you so much. I'd been thinking of doing just this but wasn't sure
This would have been so nice when I got my dressform a year ago! Great video!
My dress form was like your first, an adjustable that I bought on clearance at half price. Instead of getting others, I just made it work by padding it out and making a cover. Thanks for the heads up on the arm pattern, I'm sure my Betsy would love some arms.
Sorry i forgot to mention that you can buy a sheets of plasterzote and cover the areas that need more shape and sculpt the plaserzote with a surform to your shape, you also need contact adhesive to stick it, you can then cover with wadding material for pinning . Plasterzote is quite firm and is used in the saddling industry to model riding saddle seats to fit peoples differences in shape.
I made a Bootstrap dress form as my second ever sewing project and I love it. I measured everything twice and had help for the hard to reach measurements. I also made sure to select the correct options for posture, shoulder slope, butt and tummy shape options as well as doing the additional fit adjustment measurements. I’ve heard people having issues with the bust placement, but you have to make sure you’re filling out the fit adjustment tab that has a measurement from the center back of your neck to the apex of the breast. And of course, whatever bra you’re wearing will greatly affect that measurement as well.
Me too! It was the second or thing I ever sewed and mine turned out great. I don’t expect her to be a perfect body double for me, I expect to have to double check the fit on my actual body for anything very fitted, but she’s darn close and I use her all the time.
@@tracyvision Did you ladies use the Missy size form or the Plus size form? I suspect that those people who got a good bust position result were using the Missy instead of the Plus form. But it's only a suspicion.
@@fredericapanon207 it was the custom Missy size form.
Looks great! And the tip of the shoulder to the apex of the chest loos better.
I really enjoyed your video. It was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Dressform woes... me too! I bought an adjustable one and then put a bra on it and padded out the bra. It did ok... but when I lost a lot of weight, I was smaller than the dress form in the waist and hips!! Such an expensive mistake. I did not know about padding them up when I bought it or I would have bought a smaller size. So, rather than buying a new one, I am planning to make a dress form out of paper tape and then use the pole from my adjustable form to finish it off. I have heard one can pin into them.... and I saw someone below shared a comment referencing a workshop and am hoping they will be able to share more information on it. Best wishes with your lovely elegant form! 💕
I bought one of those adjustable dress forms. Then I put a duck tape dress form of myself on top of it. Least year, I bought a bootstrap pattern dressform pattern with my measurements to put on top of the original mannequin. I adjusted some of the instructions. I used woven fabric instead of knit and installed a zipper in one of the back seams. I also tried the pattern into my body like it was a dress before I put it on my dress form. I had to add two triangles to the bottom of my hips at either side. It also has an old bra inside and I had to pad out the upper chest to match my dimensions. If I were to make the thing again, I would again use a woven but I would also go ahead and stitch some of my felt fabric to the inside of it as if it were a fluffy interfacing. That or I would do the foam thing like Morgan Donner did.
I bought one of the expandable dress forms ages ago. But because I've got wide hips and a bust but a relatively small waist, it wasn't happy. Like the plastic cogs would groan and I was so scared I was going to break it trying to dial up and dial down all the gears.
I'm so glad you made this video. I've been considering doing the bootstrap one but it seemed like a lot of work with no guarantee. It was really useful to see your experiments
Bootstraps or padding is tough if you aren’t doing a more nitpicky, broken down set of measurements. Don’t use a bust measurement - use the front half with the boobs. Take the back half across the back. Measure nipple to nipple to get the apex in the right place. Do vertical measurements to get things in the right proportion. Your basic three measurements mean little in sewing, any couture house does these extensive measurements if clients. Your library will have sewing books on fitting and measuring is covered.
Hi there. I just came across your video. I couldn’t find anything helpful on CZcams when I had the same issue. I had spent more than enough on my adjustable dress form but it wasn’t big enough. I added polyester batting to build it up to my size which looks pretty good but I haven’t made anything using it yet. However to hold everything in, I used a T-shirt. I would love to get the jersey knit cover like yours. That’s a great find.
Thanks for sharing your journey to find the best dress form.
I'm not at the point of doing my own Bootstrap (don't yet have the room & who needs Covid-weight dysmorphia). But I _think_ I have a workaround for the fit issues that everybody seems to have. Create the complete front panel of the dress-form (inside out); safety-pin it to the shoulder-seam on your body skimming-tee & leggings outfit; do the same for the side seams; treat the result like you would any other mock-up.
You're giving the program a set of specific measurements. You're not telling the program how to move from one point to the next. I think some seams are going to have to be curved, etc. Maybe the shape of whole panels need to be changed? Plus, I suspect there needs to be more room for the breast bone, in between the apex points.
You got a Stockman! Good on ya. She is beautiful.
Thanks for the video. It was great, as always
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
I am currently about 80% done with my bootstrap dress form an am crossing all fingers it will be close enough to be useful. I took great care with measuring and even more care with sewing (I am a beginner, but found it challenging but doable so far). More importantly I think is that my measurements are pretty standard, my waist is a bit bigger and higher than the size closest to mine and the shoulders usually fit a bit weird (which I think is both because my armscye is shorter and the shoulder slope is not exactly the same). I hope at least the shorter waist will be correct! I did actually sew a toile and compared it to my body ( as best as you can), and at least the most common problem (weird boob placement of the pattern) I don't seem to have.
I am not sure I will drape much, but I hope fitting will be a bit easier, even if I pin it on the form and then try it on to check it actually fits *me*. Trying to do any pinning around my shoulders seems impossible while wearing the piece.
Someone said to put the bootstrap on you like a mockup, maybe that helps making sure it fits better? Good luck!
@@galli0 Yes, I did that (even though the pattern said not to do it, as there is negative ease in it). I was pretty sure the vertical measurements were ok, but with the ease and not having someone helping me, I wasn't sure with the circumferences (and don't know if I had been skilled enough to modify it much).
What did help a lot: I put the inner structure on the stand and looked at it through the mirror with me (in underwear) next to it. I did compare the side wise silhouette and did change the belly (too high) and shoulder (too hunched) a bit. I did the same once the form was (mostly) stuffed, placing it between myself and the mirror (both of us facing forward) and comparing a lot. I did end up padding it up from the outside (one shoulder and I put on and padded a bra), since you can only really adjust as you go (I have no idea how I managed not to see I made the shoulders asymmetrical). It is still not perfect, but with the comparing with a mirror I have a good idea what areas a different in what ways. And I use it more for pinning and as sort of a "preview", not for draping (yet). Though I think with draping *I* would be a bigger problem than the dress form, as I have never done it :)
This was amazing insight into how all of theses worked comparatively, it’s a subject less covered. I know you’ve already padded your form but if you ever need to do some adjusting on it I know Redthreaded did a video about it (which is actually where I first saw some doing it, blew my mind!)
Thank you! I've outgrown my dress form and was trying to decide should I get a new one or try to pad it. I'm going to try padding it, and if that doesn't work, I'll get a new one. Thank you.
Xyla foxlin followed Morgan Donner's video (basically), and got a very form-fitting form. It made a more even circular shape, and Xyla has a more oval shape. I think Morgan's corset made a lot of difference in her success with that method.
I think you're right about the placement of the bust on the bootstrap pattern. It seems to sit at a very different level, and possibly angle than the original(yours). I didn't notice your back during the video (just your beautiful long hair).
Ideally I want to try Morgan’s technique.
I just need a corset and someone willing to help…
@@torakfett3351 best wishes!
Loved this video! I'm a very beginning sewist and have been struggling with justifying the cost of getting a dressform. For now, I've stuck to bottom-only things like skirts but I'm going to have to do some fitting on my upper half eventually so this was lovely to watch to help me narrow down my options. Thanks!
I've just used a mirror, scrap fabric for "rough drafts" in the process, and a whole lot of patience. On fitted dress #2 right now, no sewing machine, no dress form, and drafting my own pattern.100% by eye and by hand. It is possible! While it would make things easier, like you said, I don't sew enough to justify buying one. I have a tiny room (apartment with roommates) and my primary hobby is knitting.
Couldn't you put a current, well fitting dress on the last dress form to gauge if you're in the right ballpark as far as the padding you applied to it?
That cover is a real nice finish.😽
I have the first, adjustable style dress form, and what I like about it is that you can not only adjust the overall height, but also shorten the waist as well (I am frustratingly short waisted). Same as you I had to go up to pretty much maximum expansion, so do have the large gaps, but they haven't bothered me that much. What I DON'T like is not being able to pin into it easily. Also, we have soft, squidgy bodies and this is so firm, that I find it doesn't allow for when you may want something a bit tighter fitting (like strapless for example). I am feeling very inspired after watching your video and I think I may try adjusting the size proportionately down and wrapping it in padding and adding a cover. Could be a game changer methinks! 🙂
I did a bootstrap pattern twice now. The bustline is so low on the actual pattern, so I sort of remade the pattern to my size. It fits much better now. I use it for mock ups and then make changes to the mock up to actually fit me. I'd like to have a really good dressform someday, but here, the U.S., the good ones are $900.00, but you do get pads and a stand included. Quite out of my price range at present. I'm round shouldered, so I just put more stuffing in the back to match my curved back and forward shoulders. It took ALOT of practice to get it right. It does make it easier to make garments though, so that's what matters to me. Congrats on your new form and I really hope you will be able to make your clothes more easily with it!
I got a backstrap pattern but I input the bust a little smaller so I could shape it better. The resulting dress form had to have a bit of padding but it's pretty good. I've been able to drape on it and there are quite a few youtube videos out there now that shows all the steps you need to do which makes it easier.
I bought an Acme vintage adjustable form used at a thrift shop, it's all metal except for the hard fiberboard. It used wingnuts and a slide bar to adjust the size, some were broken from the body of the form. There was supposed to be some knit cover for it to fill the gaps, which didn't have. This was also when I was new to sewing, so not knowing any better either. Ah, look at you got a Stockman, nice! If you get it padded out correctly on the form, it should work great. Fingers crossed for your next draping project.
I plan on hopefully making a dress form at some point this year as I need one for cosplay. I found an Etsy shop that sells a pattern to make one. It’s for a half scale one, but there are instructions on how to scale it to be full size. I already know I’ll have to pad it out which is fine by me since it’ll mean that it will hopefully be the correct shape once I’m done if I pad it out in the right.
I'm a non-standard size with extreme differences in measurements, and when I researched dress forms some years ago, I found that there was no way one of the adjustable forms would work. The bootstrap dress form sounded like too much work, and putting my measurements into an automated program gets some weird results. (I don't know if it's fully automated or if they do them by hand, but that was what I assumed at the time.) I ended up going for the Uniquely You form, which is a fully foam form. They come in standard sizes, but you fit a fabric cover to your body and put that on the form, squishing it down to your measurements. I love how lightweight it is! Angela Clayton has a video on her channel about getting one of these. You'll have to scroll pretty far back, but I promise it's there.
I also found the bootstrap pattern to be quite involved. I did notice that the bust doesn't quite match mine, but I think with measuring constantly at the stuffing stage helps. Mine's currently corseted for draping so I shifted the stuffing to fit right.
I feel like the bootstrap doesn't work that well because we aren't the same texture throughout, we have hard bits and soft squishy bits, some bits compress and some don't.
I chose an adjustable over the bootstrap because my previous dress form had been using the duct tape method and I could not keep it attached to the center dowel. It was sea sick all the time. I ended up with an antique adjustable that I padded out but I had to store it in my mom's shed for a time and the roof collapsed under the snow so it was a molded, rusted out mess come Spring. I asked for a new adjustable one for Christmas from my mother with the intent to pad it out. Unfortunately the smallest measurement given on the website is not how small this one will go so the boob to torso ratio is not proportional to me even at it's smallest setting. I'm thinking about cutting the plastic since I hadn't planned on it being adjustable after I padded it out anyway. I found a neat tutorial for making the boob section out of layers of bean bags basically so that when fitting bras and such the boobs lay correctly, since we dont actually defy gravity like the dress forms do. I just need to get this one project finished and then I can make the adjustments I had originally intended.
I made a bootstrap form and she came out a bit bigger than me somehow. Draping right in her produced things that fit me with the right amount of ease though so that is useful.
Congrats for your new "best friend"
Regards from Barcelona. 😀
FYI: "usually" dress form=sewing form, mannequin=display form
I did the custom Bootstrap Dress form because I did not want to do the math of a stuffed body sloper. I found that the under bust measurement is too large and there is not enough projection for my bust. It also missed the tummy projection. Its still way better than my old adjustable flock covered plastic one. I'm redrafting the Bootstrap pattern to match my shape more closely. I'm lucky that I have the drafting skills to do this. Others may struggle. However the Bootstrap is still way better than adjustable forms to use as a starting point.
To get more accurate measurements for an adjustable dress form measure from your underarm down to your waist to set the height. Put an elastic band on your tape measure and position the band at your side so you can take separate front and back measurements. Taking these as separate measurements revolutionised how well I could pad up a dress form to fit me. A well fitting bra is also useful, especially if you have a larger cup size. Remember that the more layers of 'padding' on you ( fat and muscle) the more ease you will need in the garment, as your flesh moves around as you walk and sit down, something that you cannot simulate on a dress form.
The second form looks like the bust is extremely low. The *shape* of the bust matters, too, just like in bra buying.
I agree with you on the bootstrap form. I made one and I too can't figure out what is wrong with the form. It just isn't quite right. I'm going to rip mine apart and take it in. I have lost a bit of weight. We will see
I vaguely remember a couple of makers did videos on how to customize a dress form (dressmaker, dressmaker dummy) using padding and spray glue instead of pins. I need to do that to my own dress form that I purchased (years ago for WAAAAAAAY too much money--I think I paid $200 for it 20 years ago). The adjustments are really hard to turn and several are broken now, and similarly is hard plastic you can't pin into. I've never been able to use it as a draping tool.
I would love to see an update
Love this video! How did using the new and padded dress form go?
We have very similar dress form stories. I also started with an adjustable one, hated the large gaps and lack of pin-ability so I bought and made the bootstrap pattern (also using my old dress form stand). I've had it for a few months now and it's much better but there are issues with the fit. I levelled the hem of a dress i made last week and though it fits me fine it wouldn't do up on the form.
I ended up doing the duct-tape method, but then cut the duct-tape form up to make pattern pieces to sew a fabric form. It's not perfect but its really close and far better than any other form i've tried.
I tried the bootstrap patter before but had similar issues to you. The circumference measurements were "correct", but the distribution of the measurements around the body, and the shape was really off.
I've also got a custom pattern bootstrap pattern. I've made three so far and I'm finally happy with the one I have now. I made the first and it was generally too big, the second one I adapted the pattern for but it still wasn't right. The third one is better and neater, but still not suitable for draping. The measurement are correct, but I feel like it's still too tubular and round, even though I adjust the inner panel. It's a good option, cheap, but I agree it's hard to perfect and takes a lot of time.
Thank you so much for the weight lifting clamp suggestion! I have a Dritz dress-form, similar to your first form, and have had similar issues with it - especially the vertical lines. However I have found a way to pad it out, thanks to a Red Threaded video at the beginning of the pandemic, that makes it more useful. However the extra weight from the padding is too much for the original height adjustment mechanism. The clamp may be just what I have needed. Will try to remember to add a line if it works.
Re: the bootstrap pattern fitting- correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I've heard you mention being shortwaisted in a different video before? If that is the case, I might suggest checking out Mariah Pattie, I think it was her conical body/stays drafting video? Where she mentions finding that on short-waisted people, the back measurement is sometimes shorter than the front, so you have to account for that tilting (like in the pelvis) when patterning. That might be something accounting for the fit issues here?
I've just got a adjustable dress form dif to that and I've not been sewing long at all started with quilts then bags and just done my first couple clothing items I got mine for a bargin new in box with everything £30
I've watched a few other videos and it looks like we have the same body shape or pretty close, at least. When i made my dress form i ran into the same problems you had, I think you may encounter the same issues with the padded form that you had with the bootstrap pattern. To get the closest to the actual shape you need to split your horizontal measurements in half or even quarters instead of the full circumference of you body, the back probably needs less padding than the front and sides
I live in a tiny house and don’t have enough room for a dress form so I’ve gained the skill of draping on myself and it used to be so hard but it’s really easy now
Completely relate to the dress form frustrations. I think my closest DIY version was based off of a cling film and tape version.
Just from looking at you and the dressform as you pin and explain things I think you may want to try a bra that fits you on your dress form or in some other way verify bust placement because it’s looking a little off to me. However, as someone who oscillates between no bra, sports bras and underwire bras I can also say foundation garments DRASTICALLY change bust placement/ fit for me, so maybe even just making a bustless form and then applying/ stuffing your undergarment of choice for a particular item of clothing could be a way to go about accounting for that.
Stock an still make dressforms… they update the shapes according to fashion trends (it is well indicated on the website). Wonderful things but very expensive!
I had the BEST luck with the bootstrap version that you slip OVER a premade dress form, and using a canvas duck fabric that I could stuff soundly and well to the right measurements. It's dead on. I also trimmed the pole to make the shoulders the correct height. Your BS form looks too long from the top of your should to your breast apex.
Interested to see how this one works out for you
Thr best thing i ever did was buy a polystyrene mannequin a size smaller than my actual measurements then use an old bra and cotton batting to build my body. My old bra works a treat and is perfect bust placement, the mannequin is cheap, it cost around £40 anf th batting is cheap too. Ive been sewing for years and have used stockmanns and adjustoform but this custom option works well as i can get pins in and my dress form clothing fits me well. It may be a good option for a beginner to do as they can also learn about theor body and start to understand how your body is built and hoe it affects a pattern
Thank you for this tutorial. I have a dress form and was very disappointed
Hi. Thank you for this video. I want one to, but I don't really know what I want to have😊. I bought the bootstraps patern for my body, but all the research I've made it was a love/hate thing. There was nothing in between. So I was so confused and didn't sew it. I saw too bei Sewstine that she has one from one company make a 3d from your body. You become a suit and you need to take Fotos with, but shipping overseas is not a option for me😪
I've been thinking about doing this as well! I made a duct tape dress form and it was fine. Until the stuffing shifted down over time...which left half of my chest deflated. I could restuff it but think this is the way to go instead.
Because I couldn’t find a me sized male dress form i’ve got from ebay the closest to me female form 45 euros, but i still need to modify it
I'm surprised. Don't tailors use male dress forms? Although tailoring seems to be less about draping and more about drafting a pattern and then fitting on the customer's body.
@@fredericapanon207 yes, they do. But they are more expensive
I made my own dress form out of duct tape and then one of my friends happened upon a store closing a grabbed me a small mannequin that worked perfectly to put inside for structure. I stuffed the spaces in between with plastic bags that I had laying around lol. I can't pin into it, but since I'm not much of a draper, it doesn't matter to me. I can still pin up my mock ups together on it, put skirts on it so I can get an even hem, and (the reason I made it) it's super good for molding foam armor on.
One important thing to remember for when you padd up, is the distribution, You don't keep layers even all the way around. You might need a large right angle square, you could have more room in the back than the front, or more room on the front then the sides. Looking at the two of you standing side to side, you don't look that wide. And maybe tie a waistband around the waist. Your waist also does not look that big. Think of it like a stay or corset.
Also a cheap way to get a dress form cover is a fitted t-shirt.
I have a fabulous fit dress form and it has been terrific for years. You intentionally buy slightly smaller than yourself and pad it out to your measurements. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on perspective) I recently lost 153 pounds. So yeah my old dress form no longer goes small enough for me. I will be buying a new one from the same company soon.
🎉 well done 🥂
congratulations
and what brand is your dress form please?
@@jo-annefalconer6280 Fabulous fit
I have a secondhand Uniquely You that I am fitting to myself. Also the stretch, custom measurements, cover from Bootstrap I have tried it on and fit it like a skin tight dress ala the Uniquely You to pad out and cover an adjustable dress form. I also have the mannequin pattern both in the range of sizes and a custom pattern. I intend to build it in stages and fit to me before finishing and stuffing. I have ideas about Burnley and Trowbridge's hack for Ruth Watkin Costumes half scale manniquin (to have maliable breasts for corseting) by making a hybrid, breastless, Bootstrap to my measurements and adding the B&T breasts. All works in progress; with nary a one to drape on but, one day...
I'm curious if you remember if you did the basic measurements for the bootstrap or if you remember going into the fit adjustments tab which had you measure your back as well.
measuring your own back is basically impossible to do well so fair enough if you skipped that part
I’m considering the bootstrap form, but my thinking is that I’d put on undergarments before patterning anything on it….
And I’ve always felt they ‘smooth’ out the body, even if someone had really angled body parts…
I’ve made my own until then, over top of an oooold adjustable one I found thrifting , I pulled over a slip dress that sat really tight on my body, and a turtle neck T-shirt, and padded out under - and put on an old bra that fit…
My only issue with it is the dress I used is a really slippy polyester fabric that nothing sticks to - and the padding is really soft…
So I’m having a hard time pinpointing the measurements. - but it’s better than nothing!
I love my bootstrap. BUT I did have to do a bit of alterations to the pattern for it to get the boobs better on it. The only issue I have with it is that even though the measurements are exactly what I am, garments on it feel tight around the chest simply because it does not squish as much as I do in that region :P It is a great cheaper option for a dress for and MUCH better than getting a generic one that you have to pad out. It works for now but yes one day I would love to get one that uses a digital map of my body and the company makes me the dress form.
I think I want to try the 'plaster cast filled with expandable foam' method Morgan Donner used. I have an adjustable mannequin right now, and she's pretty - but also pretty useless. She theoretically fits my size at her minimum setting, but the SHAPE is completely off. Close-fitting garments that have been adjusted for me will no longer fit her. She's just SO different in body shape...
So yes, the eternal quest for a good mannequin continues.
I’ve been following the exact same steps 😂 and I’m currently looking for a stockman dress form I could pad to my measurements. But I’m curious, did it work for you ? Are you still using it ? Thank you so much for sharing your video 😊 !
Hello, I have been watching countless tutorials in hopes of constructing my own dressform. I was leaning towards the bootstrap because it had the inner structure worked out for ya. Anyway, the bust always looked low in the finished Bootstrap dressforms. But the more I watched these videos, the more I'm beginning to think it's not that the bust is low it looks more like the shoulders are too high. So I'm curious if you think that could be part of the problem with your form? Also, you are the only one who has mentioned actually using it after constructing it. So I was disappointed for you that you weren't able to use it as you had hoped. But happy the arm pattern did workout. So I decided, with free being my incentive, I have started the dreaded "ducktape" form with the help of my very artistic neighbor who used to sew clothes but now quilts. She meticulously tapped me up, then marked all my seamlines and cut it, freeing me from the form. After three mockups, I am quite happy with it, but I still have no idea how I will work out the inner construction. Thank you for your review of the pattern.
🇨🇦😃 wonderful!
What’s wrong with the bootstrap dress form might be difference in posture and where one holds weight. Bootstrap tries to make patterns symmetrical but people aren’t.
My Bootstrap dressform workes fine for me except for the position of the brests (4cm too low). I had a horrible time making it. The least enjoyable sewing project I ever did. I plan to add a bottom extension to the dressform. It stops way too high. You can't drape a skirt at all. But it is the most accurate dressform I ever had, so I still love it. My dream is a custom made Beatrice dressform (they scan your body) but it is way too expensive for my budget and not available in Europe.