Not sure I can properly express how happy I am to see you back in the bindery. It was a long wait for me and I'm sure an incredibly painful time for you. I hope all is well at this point. Keep them coming.
I don't think I'll ever get tired of seeing a book take shape in your hands and this video shows a real beauty. Yes, I can testify that trying to trim a wet endpaper does indeed invite disapointment into your life with open arms. Did just that a few months ago and completely ruined days of work.
Just finished several of my own hollow back, library style, split board books. You are my main inspiration and most valuable resource. I consider you my personal mentor. Your videos are a privilege.
Thanks so much for your videos full of inspiration and instruction! 😊 I recently did my first practice-run casing in a text I had printed out years ago and kept in a binder. I cut the holes off and glued the spine, even rounded the spine, and made a case with a rounded spine stiffener. The only mistakes I made were when I wondered what happens when you don’t do what DAS does. And, of course, the office laser printer printed text had the grain going perpendicular to the proper orientation so the glue made it a bit wavy. But all in all a very good first try, thanks to the clear instruction from your great videos.
I just play around with art and junk journals. I do like them to be sturdy though and I've learned loads from you. I understand about half the technical terms you use but mostly it's your voice and accent. Very soothing and I just listen to you talk. Don't be offended. I recognize your expert knowledge. 🏆
Another excellent video. Casing-in always is a moment of stress for me and I know I am not the only one! Your second method was unknown to me, so that's very interesting to know, but like you I would probably not use it.
Great set of videos again Many thanks. I dont know where to put this but I am in the UK and have found a source of very affordable short grain A4 which has been so hard to find here. Has anyone any suggestions as to where I can post to reach other amature bookbinders who struggle to fine a short grain A4 paper to print on in the UK at a reasonable cost?
That would be great to share. There are some popular bookbinding groups on FaceBook. If you can reply to this comment letting me know, I'll mention it in my next Q&A video. Thanks!
Hi I have now posted on Bookbinding Unbound (face book group) - been on vacation in between.@@DASBookbinding " The Papermilldirect in Cumbria UK have 3 A3 papers thet are long grain and will cut to A4 for an aditional cost of £1 per ream. the papers that are A3 Long are: CA381-U Sylvamo Universal Copier A3 (297x420mm) Pk500RCA381 Rey Copy A3 (297x420mm) 80gsm PK500RLA381 Rey Light Copier A3 (297x420mm) Pk500 and the Rey Lite that is the one that I have bought. Cost is for the Lite about £ 13:87 for A3 plus £1 for the cut and £4 post and package to UK. This is far cheeper than any other option I have found here [in the UK].
First, thank you for all you teach everyone on Book Binding, could you give a good recommendations for a beginner video? I want to start in this field as a hobby but feel a bit overwhelmed. So I am looking a good starter video from your channel. Thank you.
This is such a good question I think I'll do a Q&A video about it. In the mean time, check out this list. Maybe start with the paper covered pamphlets and look at some materials videos like paper grain and warp free boards. dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14/youtube-channel/
Have really enjoyed this series. I have followed many of your other videos as well over the years. Does one ever use leather in these cased bindings? I have scraps large enough for spines and corners but not full leather binding after doing some of your other projects. Thank you!
Sure. I've had enough requests for this that I'll put it on the list for the future. For leather corners you can check out the library binding videos. Doesn't;t help with making the case. You can just treat it like cloth. But to get nice results you need to do some paring so you don't get thickening at the head and tail of the spine.
I don't have any Franklin library books to check for sure, but they will just be fake banks, usually made with little strips of card and cover materials shaped over them. I'm not a fan of false bands anyway, but I think on cheap modern bindings they look terrible.
A really great video. With the red cloth book at the begining of the video the corners of the fore edge look like they have a slight indent top and bottom for say 1". Was this intentional and does it have a purpose?
Hello Sir I have been following you for a long time and i am truly a fan of your work. I am into bookbinding and i have an issue, i saw a video of you making bookcloth and i made it exactly the way you showed but when i attach the bookcloth to the boards the paper that i used to back up the fabric seperates from the fabric. Please help me solve this issue. What measures should be taken to prevent this or is this usual? Please reply.
No, not usual. I have a number of videos on making bookcloth so will have to guess which one this is likely to happened with and why. First is using the heat activated interface material. In this case I would suspect there wasn't enough heat. If it using paste I would suspect the cloth you used wasn't a natural fibre but some sort of synthetic and the adhesive had trouble bonding to the synthetic. Hope this helps.
Love seeing the book come 'alive' and I'm grateful for the different approaches. Do you also sometimes fit a piece of paper between the board and the endpaper, in order to get the same height of the buckram at the top and bottom? So you don't get and 'edge' on the inside of the book? Like in this video czcams.com/video/hznvLWIB5-c/video.htmlfeature=shared&t=263 of Four Keys (at 4 min 23).
No, it's not normal to "fill-in" with a cased binding. The spine lining and tapes will still show through under the pastedown even if you fill-in before casing. Normally reserved for fancier work with boards attached then covering. I fill-in in a number of videos. I think I fill-in the outside in the last series I did on the rounded and backed book.
I try and show the top of my adhesive jar before doing each job. If you see EVA, this is the equivalent of PVA. I used methyl cellulose (it will be labelled MC) for casing in the common way and PVA for the hanging in method. I will often use mix for the common approach, but best to have some experience before stepping up to this.
Not sure I can properly express how happy I am to see you back in the bindery. It was a long wait for me and I'm sure an incredibly painful time for you. I hope all is well at this point. Keep them coming.
I don't think I'll ever get tired of seeing a book take shape in your hands and this video shows a real beauty. Yes, I can testify that trying to trim a wet endpaper does indeed invite disapointment into your life with open arms. Did just that a few months ago and completely ruined days of work.
Just finished several of my own hollow back, library style, split board books. You are my main inspiration and most valuable resource. I consider you my personal mentor. Your videos are a privilege.
Thanks so much for your videos full of inspiration and instruction! 😊 I recently did my first practice-run casing in a text I had printed out years ago and kept in a binder. I cut the holes off and glued the spine, even rounded the spine, and made a case with a rounded spine stiffener. The only mistakes I made were when I wondered what happens when you don’t do what DAS does. And, of course, the office laser printer printed text had the grain going perpendicular to the proper orientation so the glue made it a bit wavy. But all in all a very good first try, thanks to the clear instruction from your great videos.
I just play around with art and junk journals. I do like them to be sturdy though and I've learned loads from you. I understand about half the technical terms you use but mostly it's your voice and accent. Very soothing and I just listen to you talk. Don't be offended. I recognize your expert knowledge. 🏆
Precious! I love watching him work dear Darren. Thanks for sharing 🤗📖📚💝
I haven’t tried a binding this complicated but now that I have your videos to follow, I may give it a try, just to challenge myself.
Thank you so much for video) Laughed a lot about "inviting disappoint in your life))
Another excellent video. Casing-in always is a moment of stress for me and I know I am not the only one! Your second method was unknown to me, so that's very interesting to know, but like you I would probably not use it.
Das, I have learned so much from your videos, and I really appreciate the craftsmanship and artistry that goes into your work!!!
Very welcome!
Thank you ❤ I just saw this video that you are back. I am so happy.
It’s always a pleasure to find a new video of yours on the tube! Thank you for your hard work!
So good to have you back again!
Thank you! This really is my favorite.
thank you.
Yes informative as usual~
Great set of videos again Many thanks. I dont know where to put this but I am in the UK and have found a source of very affordable short grain A4 which has been so hard to find here. Has anyone any suggestions as to where I can post to reach other amature bookbinders who struggle to fine a short grain A4 paper to print on in the UK at a reasonable cost?
That would be great to share. There are some popular bookbinding groups on FaceBook. If you can reply to this comment letting me know, I'll mention it in my next Q&A video. Thanks!
Hi I have now posted on Bookbinding Unbound (face book group) - been on vacation in between.@@DASBookbinding " The Papermilldirect in Cumbria UK have 3 A3 papers thet are long grain and will cut to A4 for an aditional cost of £1 per ream.
the papers that are A3 Long are: CA381-U Sylvamo Universal Copier A3 (297x420mm) Pk500RCA381 Rey Copy A3 (297x420mm) 80gsm PK500RLA381 Rey Light Copier A3 (297x420mm) Pk500
and the Rey Lite that is the one that I have bought. Cost is for the Lite about £ 13:87 for A3 plus £1 for the cut and £4 post and package to UK. This is far cheeper than any other option I have found here [in the UK].
First, thank you for all you teach everyone on Book Binding, could you give a good recommendations for a beginner video? I want to start in this field as a hobby but feel a bit overwhelmed. So I am looking a good starter video from your channel. Thank you.
This is such a good question I think I'll do a Q&A video about it. In the mean time, check out this list. Maybe start with the paper covered pamphlets and look at some materials videos like paper grain and warp free boards.
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14/youtube-channel/
@@DASBookbinding thank you very much
will you be selling “beginner packs” for people who want to start into bookbinding?
I have in the past. Just need to get the binder fully functional again. I hope to before the holidays to cash in on present giving:)
Have really enjoyed this series. I have followed many of your other videos as well over the years. Does one ever use leather in these cased bindings? I have scraps large enough for spines and corners but not full leather binding after doing some of your other projects. Thank you!
Sure. I've had enough requests for this that I'll put it on the list for the future. For leather corners you can check out the library binding videos. Doesn't;t help with making the case. You can just treat it like cloth. But to get nice results you need to do some paring so you don't get thickening at the head and tail of the spine.
Does anyone know how Franklin Library manages to get the raised bands on their spines?
I don't have any Franklin library books to check for sure, but they will just be fake banks, usually made with little strips of card and cover materials shaped over them. I'm not a fan of false bands anyway, but I think on cheap modern bindings they look terrible.
A really great video. With the red cloth book at the begining of the video the corners of the fore edge look like they have a slight indent top and bottom for say 1". Was this intentional and does it have a purpose?
Yes, this is for corner protectors and you'll see this book again in a future video.
@@DASBookbinding That makes complete sense. Look forward to seeing it.
Definitely too advanced for me, but man that book is beautiful.
Hello Sir
I have been following you for a long time and i am truly a fan of your work.
I am into bookbinding and i have an issue, i saw a video of you making bookcloth and i made it exactly the way you showed but when i attach the bookcloth to the boards the paper that i used to back up the fabric seperates from the fabric.
Please help me solve this issue.
What measures should be taken to prevent this or is this usual?
Please reply.
No, not usual. I have a number of videos on making bookcloth so will have to guess which one this is likely to happened with and why. First is using the heat activated interface material. In this case I would suspect there wasn't enough heat. If it using paste I would suspect the cloth you used wasn't a natural fibre but some sort of synthetic and the adhesive had trouble bonding to the synthetic. Hope this helps.
Okay
I will keep that in my mind
Thank you so much for replying.
Love seeing the book come 'alive' and I'm grateful for the different approaches. Do you also sometimes fit a piece of paper between the board and the endpaper, in order to get the same height of the buckram at the top and bottom? So you don't get and 'edge' on the inside of the book? Like in this video czcams.com/video/hznvLWIB5-c/video.htmlfeature=shared&t=263 of Four Keys (at 4 min 23).
No, it's not normal to "fill-in" with a cased binding. The spine lining and tapes will still show through under the pastedown even if you fill-in before casing. Normally reserved for fancier work with boards attached then covering. I fill-in in a number of videos. I think I fill-in the outside in the last series I did on the rounded and backed book.
What type of glue is used to do this type of work?
I try and show the top of my adhesive jar before doing each job. If you see EVA, this is the equivalent of PVA. I used methyl cellulose (it will be labelled MC) for casing in the common way and PVA for the hanging in method. I will often use mix for the common approach, but best to have some experience before stepping up to this.