You are not considering whether they used glue. However, OSB should not be used under any circumstances. Use plywood, a bunch of PL400, and a bunch of screws. After that, no common 2x4 truss joint is going anywhere. If you have more loads (doubled up trusses with integrated LVL's) it gets way more complicated and you'd probably be best calling an engineer if you don't have any experience. But I've corrected my own issues as well for these so it's not impossible to DIY.
Came across many jobs where there was wood truss damage. In order to abate the issue, as my employer gave me no control over the construction materials, just safety. I would note the damage, in my report and issue a strongly worded Safety Recommendation. My wording using the term "should" always solved the issue. The reason being, the court system interprets "should" as "you will". I've had entire building truss systems (improperly braced) collapse, with the contractor wanting to salvage/reuse the trusses. I always made sure that the general contractor was well aware of the issues.
Sure, the homes were much simpler / shorter spans in the late 60’s -70’s, but my Dad was a well respected GC before truss plants were common. He and his crews site built trusses for over 300 masonry homes, using 1/2” plywood for gussets and only “common sense” self engineering, in which 95%+ are still intact and looking good. That’s how it was done prior to 1978 “ish” in our region. If that repair was nailed adequately, it’d be stronger than the steel press gusset. Besides, without seeing what the specific problem was prior to repair, any further blind speculation is laughable. I’d love to see the sizing chart this guy used to decide these particular gussets need to be 24” and I’m curious if he put that in writing / in his report. *As others have said. The common process today is, if truss damage occurs, you take pictures and report it to the truss manufacturer. Their acting engineer of record then decides how to repair said damage and provides a sealed detail drawing to keep on-site for the local governing authority inspectors / or Private Provider Inspector, which they review for compliance at the time of framing inspection.
Absolutely, this ok if you live in the sticks perhaps, but pay to get an engineered fix then repair accordingly. Especially if one day you plan on selling your home at a premium price. Lol.
Trusses work through pinned connection. In other words the joints should resemble a pin or single bolt connection which allows for rotation. That being said, in the real world connectors are designed to resemble a pinned connection as much as possible. Providing a large gusset plate help because you can increase the amount of nails. However, a 24" gusset plate moves further away from a pinned connection. Also the capacity of the existing nail plates are difficult to obtain, so for sure any time a truss is damaged, you call a structural engineer. Never try fixing a truss without an engineer-this video shows a great example of what can happen, minus roofers stacking material over that location.
You are not considering whether they used glue. However, OSB should not be used under any circumstances. Use plywood, a bunch of PL400, and a bunch of screws. After that, no common 2x4 truss joint is going anywhere. If you have more loads (doubled up trusses with integrated LVL's) it gets way more complicated and you'd probably be best calling an engineer if you don't have any experience. But I've corrected my own issues as well for these so it's not impossible to DIY.
Came across many jobs where there was wood truss damage. In order to abate the issue, as my employer gave me no control over the construction materials, just safety. I would note the damage, in my report and issue a strongly worded Safety Recommendation. My wording using the term "should" always solved the issue. The reason being, the court system interprets "should" as "you will".
I've had entire building truss systems (improperly braced) collapse, with the contractor wanting to salvage/reuse the trusses. I always made sure that the general contractor was well aware of the issues.
Those gusset plates looked too small to me in relation to what I usually see here in Calif
Sure, the homes were much simpler / shorter spans in the late 60’s -70’s, but my Dad was a well respected GC before truss plants were common. He and his crews site built trusses for over 300 masonry homes, using 1/2” plywood for gussets and only “common sense” self engineering, in which 95%+ are still intact and looking good. That’s how it was done prior to 1978 “ish” in our region. If that repair was nailed adequately, it’d be stronger than the steel press gusset. Besides, without seeing what the specific problem was prior to repair, any further blind speculation is laughable. I’d love to see the sizing chart this guy used to decide these particular gussets need to be 24” and I’m curious if he put that in writing / in his report.
*As others have said. The common process today is, if truss damage occurs, you take pictures and report it to the truss manufacturer. Their acting engineer of record then decides how to repair said damage and provides a sealed detail drawing to keep on-site for the local governing authority inspectors / or Private Provider Inspector, which they review for compliance at the time of framing inspection.
Must be checked by truss manufacturer engineers
Absolutely, this ok if you live in the sticks perhaps, but pay to get an engineered fix then repair accordingly. Especially if one day you plan on selling your home at a premium price. Lol.
Trusses work through pinned connection. In other words the joints should resemble a pin or single bolt connection which allows for rotation. That being said, in the real world connectors are designed to resemble a pinned connection as much as possible. Providing a large gusset plate help because you can increase the amount of nails. However, a 24" gusset plate moves further away from a pinned connection. Also the capacity of the existing nail plates are difficult to obtain, so for sure any time a truss is damaged, you call a structural engineer. Never try fixing a truss without an engineer-this video shows a great example of what can happen, minus roofers stacking material over that location.
so with the plywood not being acceptable would the proper fix be just removing the plywood and putting the proper gusset plates in place?
BS. that's probably the best truss repair using plywood it ties all the support legs together.
With only 4-6 nails attaching the plywood are you kidding. Lol.
They probably glued it