I am really getting a lot of good tips and tricks and really appreciate it. Learning as I go, I thought I was nuts seeing the movement and need for a lot of readjustments. But your break down is exceptional. And I really dig that you show "mistakes" as you go. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.
@@Ryonet hmmm this is kind of a hard one now because this answered so many of my questions. Maybe platen upgrades and bracket placement. Recently got a 18x18, 18x20, 20x20. Would love to know how to make the most of those with my 150.
I am impressed with his patience and dedication to the trade. Having said that, I am convinced we need a rock star engineer who can design a machine with one try registration. Technology has to move on for the better and easier to set things up.
You don't upgrade this press to micros, if you're looking for a press with micro registration, check out the Riley 250: www.screenprinting.com/products/riley-hopkins-250-4-color-1-station-screen-printing-press-with-xy-micro-registration
the 250 is cool but nobody would buy it if the 150 had micros. i think the company knows this as well. the 150 used to have micros. there are plenty of people on here showing theirs when it did.@@Ryonet
also, I just spoke with someone from Ryonet. they can't even recommend buying this thing. now that is sad. they said to buy the 250 because getting this thing in registration would be hell. which it is. how about just giving people what they want to buy if they are willing to pay for it? nobody even really wants the 250. i read all the forums.@@Ryonet
Newbie here--one of my favorite videos so far! I have an old Silver Press 4/1 so this was great for me to see. Question about smoothing screen...is it just a regular screen? Is it coated with emulsion?? What is the clear ink you used?? Thank you so much for these videos!
Heather - in the video before this one, where I talk about the art and making screens, I show how to make the smoothing screen. Its simply a coated screen, typically a higher mesh count, that is exposed without any image.
I’m thinking about getting a Riley press and using it in my mom’s garage, but is there any risk to using it in a hot environment? It’s almost summer time so I’m anticipating the garage to be pretty hot without AC / proper ventilation
I have some questions . What kind of silk holes are used in this experiment? What transparent material did you use on the white color? Thank you very much for this wonderful video
I will do different for the off contact. I will find me an aluminiun frame thin enough to match the off contact. I will put the thin frame under the screen and using a level to make it all level. And do the rest of it same way.
I have this press and I am having issues with my off contact. No matter how I adjust the heads, the screen sits at an extreme angle. Or it just lays on the shirt completely. It takes me an hour and I can still see my underbase even though it is choked. Could that be an issue fixed by readjusting tilt/off contact?
Hi @johnl805 I responded on your other comment... we can totally get you dialed in. give us a shout. here's the message from the other post.... Good morning @johnl805 ! Yes there is a tilt adjustment and we would be pumped to talk you through how to use it. You can email me directly at jwells@ryonet.com or you can call us at 3605767188. In short if you are looking at the BACK of the screen clamp there are two bolts. This is your off contact which allows for vertical, up and down adjustment. Where the screen clamp attaches to the arm that brings it down there another two bolts. one is basically a pivot point and the other is what locks in place. This is your tilt adjustment. Hope this helps, give us a shout and we can walk you through it.
Hi Colin - Im setting up my 250 press and other equipment now. I have an Epson ET-16600 Printer. Originally when I ordered it, the 16500 model was supported by PrintFab. Now it looks as though even that earlier model is not supported. Is there another RIP software or other solution that you could steer me to that would work well for creating Color Separations from Adobe Illustrator? Also - do you think there might be a chance that the ET-16600 will in fact work with AccuRip Emerald or other? I kind of get the feeling that some printers aren't listed on their site because they don't actually have that model in their shop to verify it, or is it more complicated than that. Please let me know your thoughts or anyone else please with input. Thanks!
The main issue with printers and rip software lately is the lack of availability for the traditional "recommended" printer models. Printer supply chain issues have created a world of hurt for everyone in our industry. My suggestion is to find rip software that is offering you a lot of flexibility but also has clear instructions and recommendations on printers you can use - and that are available. Those list are growing everyday as the rip companies test more and more printers.
Hey I have a question when registering with the 150, I’ve been trying to do a 2 color print, I’ll have the registration right on but then once I lift the screen move it and bring it back it’s off. I’m not sure what’s causing this. I’m new to printing
Hi! There could be several reasons for this. First - lets make sure the screen is not resting on the platen at all - that you have set the print head for proper off contact. The screen should be "floating" above the platen and no part of it should actually touch the platen. Second - lets make sure the nylon bolts are snug (but not too snug!) up against the print arm. Third - is the platen clamp snugged down nice and tight? Does the platen shift? What are you aligning to? Has it moved? If you are still having issues past this - please give us a call and we can go over it with you!
I noticed you didn’t mix the FN white ink. MY FN white is SUPER thick. Even with mixing it, it doesn’t come out that good on one pass. It’s very uneven. Is it supposed to be this hard to work with?
I did the clear tape and got the register and then when I took the tape off it took the underbase with it 😭 What kind of clear tape is it that you used? Can I also do this with a blank transparency sheet?
Good morning @johnl805! using clear tape to register is a cool old school trick/technique and super helpful. i guess when i do that technique i don't really ever take the tape off in order to print on the base underneath the tape. I just do another test print to confirm i am indeed all lined up. As far as what i use, i use either packing tape or Clear Choice Registration Tape. A blank transparency wouldn't have any adhesive on the back to get it to stick, so i probably wouldn't recommend that. Hope this helps!
@@Ryonet I'm definitely hesitant to drill into the screens haha, but if I can't come up with a better solution to get them on the walls and ceilings I might have to try it your way
Hi! At the 21 minute mark you see a blank screen being used to help smooth out the shirt fibers that are sticking up through the white base. You can see this in use and described better in the video for printing white ink with a smoothing screen: czcams.com/video/dNXuo9yAyFk/video.html
I don't know anything about screen printing, and have no real clue about how close the screen should be to the material to be printed on. 1/8 th inch? 1/16 th? Everything will be trial and error, for me, it seems.
It all takes practice but the width of a quarter is a great place to start for off-contact! You should join us for an in-person two day class! scrnprntl.ink/SPE
Good morning, @Nathan Judds. It will. However, please keep in mind that the pallet it comes with is 16x16. So you may be limited on how large your image can be by pallet size comparative to the screens. you could go with a larger pallet though. Hope that helps.
I have a couple questions if you could answer please! 1. Can i cure with a flash dryer? 2. If i can , how long do i flash the shirt for if the flash dryer im using is 2000 watts and is fixed at 400 C
Hi Kayla. Yes, you can cure any ink with a flash dryer. We do have a couple of videos that you can watch that will walk you through the process. We also have plans for an updated video on curing ink. As for how long to flash with your flash unit - flash long enough, so the ink is dry to the touch and not sticky. No One can give you an exact time for this. It is dependent on how warm your ink is, your ink deposit thickness, how warm your platens are, the ink itself, and how far your flash is above your platen. 1 inch off will flash faster than 4 inches off.
@@kaylachermolololo6401 the first reason to use an underbase is: A white underbase is used whenever you need the colors of your design to look like they do in the bucket. Say, you print yellow on a royal blue shirt... that yellow is going to tint towards a green shade. If you put white down first, that blocks the blue of the shirt and allows the yellow to remain truer in color. the second reason is: As a way to block dye migration when printing on poly and poly blended garments.
@@colinhuggins6164 colin you’re the only one i can relay on lol im having trouble finding any good answers my question is what can i do if i dont have a pressure washer? Well i can get one its just i dont have a water source and cant really spend money on anything like that so is there any alternative?
@@kaylachermolololo6401 oh goodness.... Water is pretty essential as its used as our source for rinsing clean and reclaiming / developing our screens. My thoughts are to create a recirculating system with filters to pull out all the particulate... but it is not going to be cheap... I'm sorry, but I do not have a good answer for you :(
lol, the naked truth is, if you've registered screens over 2 years alone you wouldn't need artwork to register 3 colour design unless its a 6 -8 colour point registration?
Hey, What's up, Chuck? Everyone has to start somewhere. Some printers need to start with something like this due to budget or maybe they are just printing on the hobby level. THat's what this press is designed for. Maybe they don't even know if they know if they like screen printing yet. While i agree with you (a little) that i would want to invest a little more for a Riley 300 or 350, that's not everyone's scenario, man. Have a great rest of your week, Chuck. Happy Printing.
I am really getting a lot of good tips and tricks and really appreciate it. Learning as I go, I thought I was nuts seeing the movement and need for a lot of readjustments. But your break down is exceptional. And I really dig that you show "mistakes" as you go. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.
Man your tutorials are awesome! Big thanks for that. I'm so eager to do my next prints. Stay in a good health!
Please Please Please Please keep making 150 videos , when i first bought my press there was no videos out on it, this has helped so much thank you!!
Absolutely, and thanks for reaching out! We are currently working away on content. Anything in particular you'd like to see more on?
@@Ryonet hmmm this is kind of a hard one now because this answered so many of my questions. Maybe platen upgrades and bracket placement. Recently got a 18x18, 18x20, 20x20. Would love to know how to make the most of those with my 150.
I am impressed with his patience and dedication to the trade. Having said that, I am convinced we need a rock star engineer who can design a machine with one try registration. Technology has to move on for the better and easier to set things up.
Not bad points, progress is a necessity. We're grateful for our rockstar designers and operators making magic happen over here!
I have to rewatch this every time I'm printing. Registration is the biggest struggle!
Good morning, @KittyJ30! I get it! Keep it up. You got this!
Same RH 4/1 Press I’m looking to buy so I’m stoked to see this video tutorial. 💯🤙🏼
Thank you so much for your videos, hope you are in good health.
Aaahhhrrrrggg!!!! Lube that flash unit swing!!!! Lol
nice work!!!
Just far too much work without micros and this guy is a professional. To upgrade this press with micros costs more than the press itself.
You don't upgrade this press to micros, if you're looking for a press with micro registration, check out the Riley 250: www.screenprinting.com/products/riley-hopkins-250-4-color-1-station-screen-printing-press-with-xy-micro-registration
the 250 is cool but nobody would buy it if the 150 had micros. i think the company knows this as well. the 150 used to have micros. there are plenty of people on here showing theirs when it did.@@Ryonet
also, I just spoke with someone from Ryonet. they can't even recommend buying this thing. now that is sad. they said to buy the 250 because getting this thing in registration would be hell. which it is. how about just giving people what they want to buy if they are willing to pay for it? nobody even really wants the 250. i read all the forums.@@Ryonet
Thank you!!
Thanks so much. Great video! Something I’m having trouble with is how long to flash the shirts at 3” high off the shirt?
Nice. Using the 150 right now. I have a 16x16 pallet and my screens are 20x24 does that matter ?
Thank you very much this video was so helpful. I am a beginner screen printer.
Newbie here--one of my favorite videos so far! I have an old Silver Press 4/1 so this was great for me to see. Question about smoothing screen...is it just a regular screen? Is it coated with emulsion?? What is the clear ink you used?? Thank you so much for these videos!
Heather - in the video before this one, where I talk about the art and making screens, I show how to make the smoothing screen. Its simply a coated screen, typically a higher mesh count, that is exposed without any image.
@@colinhuggins6164 Oh very good! I thought I had watched that but must have missed the smoothing screen part. Thank you so much!
Good vid thank you
No problem 👍
I’m thinking about getting a Riley press and using it in my mom’s garage, but is there any risk to using it in a hot environment? It’s almost summer time so I’m anticipating the garage to be pretty hot without AC / proper ventilation
Wheres the best place to get bulk shirts?
I have some questions . What kind of silk holes are used in this experiment? What transparent material did you use on the white color? Thank you very much for this wonderful video
157 thin thread for the white. 230 standard thread for top colors / Any clear ink will work in the smoothing screen.
@@colinhuggins6164 thank you very much 👍 👌👌
Where can I buy this machine. ı am from Turkey
I will do different for the off contact. I will find me an aluminiun frame thin enough to match the off contact. I will put the thin frame under the screen and using a level to make it all level. And do the rest of it same way.
Right on, that sounds perfect!!
I have this press and I am having issues with my off contact. No matter how I adjust the heads, the screen sits at an extreme angle. Or it just lays on the shirt completely. It takes me an hour and I can still see my underbase even though it is choked. Could that be an issue fixed by readjusting tilt/off contact?
Hi @johnl805 I responded on your other comment... we can totally get you dialed in. give us a shout.
here's the message from the other post.... Good morning @johnl805 ! Yes there is a tilt adjustment and we would be pumped to talk you through how to use it. You can email me directly at jwells@ryonet.com or you can call us at 3605767188.
In short if you are looking at the BACK of the screen clamp there are two bolts. This is your off contact which allows for vertical, up and down adjustment. Where the screen clamp attaches to the arm that brings it down there another two bolts. one is basically a pivot point and the other is what locks in place. This is your tilt adjustment. Hope this helps, give us a shout and we can walk you through it.
Hi Colin - Im setting up my 250 press and other equipment now. I have an Epson ET-16600 Printer. Originally when I ordered it, the 16500 model was supported by PrintFab. Now it looks as though even that earlier model is not supported. Is there another RIP software or other solution that you could steer me to that would work well for creating Color Separations from Adobe Illustrator? Also - do you think there might be a chance that the ET-16600 will in fact work with AccuRip Emerald or other? I kind of get the feeling that some printers aren't listed on their site because they don't actually have that model in their shop to verify it, or is it more complicated than that. Please let me know your thoughts or anyone else please with input. Thanks!
The main issue with printers and rip software lately is the lack of availability for the traditional "recommended" printer models. Printer supply chain issues have created a world of hurt for everyone in our industry.
My suggestion is to find rip software that is offering you a lot of flexibility but also has clear instructions and recommendations on printers you can use - and that are available. Those list are growing everyday as the rip companies test more and more printers.
Is there any way I could add micro registration on my Hopkins 150 ?
Hi Mario. Unfortunately there are no upgrade options for the 150 press.
Hey I have a question when registering with the 150, I’ve been trying to do a 2 color print, I’ll have the registration right on but then once I lift the screen move it and bring it back it’s off. I’m not sure what’s causing this. I’m new to printing
Hi! There could be several reasons for this.
First - lets make sure the screen is not resting on the platen at all - that you have set the print head for proper off contact. The screen should be "floating" above the platen and no part of it should actually touch the platen.
Second - lets make sure the nylon bolts are snug (but not too snug!) up against the print arm.
Third - is the platen clamp snugged down nice and tight? Does the platen shift? What are you aligning to? Has it moved?
If you are still having issues past this - please give us a call and we can go over it with you!
I noticed you didn’t mix the FN white ink. MY FN white is SUPER thick. Even with mixing it, it doesn’t come out that good on one pass. It’s very uneven. Is it supposed to be this hard to work with?
hey @johnl805, seems strange. reach out to us and let's see what we can work out. How old is the bucket and where is stored at?
I did the clear tape and got the register and then when I took the tape off it took the underbase with it 😭 What kind of clear tape is it that you used? Can I also do this with a blank transparency sheet?
Good morning @johnl805! using clear tape to register is a cool old school trick/technique and super helpful. i guess when i do that technique i don't really ever take the tape off in order to print on the base underneath the tape. I just do another test print to confirm i am indeed all lined up. As far as what i use, i use either packing tape or Clear Choice Registration Tape. A blank transparency wouldn't have any adhesive on the back to get it to stick, so i probably wouldn't recommend that. Hope this helps!
I believe you should do every test over the registration tape and not over your final underbase print
does the gradient prints always have to be printed wet on wet?
No, it will depend on what inks you're using. Feel free to reach out anytime if you need more support!
How do you get rid of the printed registration markers?
If you place packing tape on the shirt where the registration marks lie, then you can just wipe off the ink with a rag. I hope that helps!
How do you hang all your screens on the wall?
Thanks for noticing! We actually drilled holes in all the sides and screwed them together so it's a standing wall. You going to try it?
@@Ryonet I'm definitely hesitant to drill into the screens haha, but if I can't come up with a better solution to get them on the walls and ceilings I might have to try it your way
Soo the smoothing screen has a clear liquid or something? Or No?
Hi Jeff! Yes, you'll want to add a small amount of a base to use as a lubricant for the smoothing screen. Try Clear Core or a Curable Reducer!
Check this out for details! czcams.com/video/dNXuo9yAyFk/video.html
@@Ryonet Will Do Thanks!!
what is the purpose of the smoothing screen
A smoothing screen boosts the vibrancy of the ink and mattes down the fibers of the shirt for a nice smooth print!
What Flash are you using? Ryo?
This is a RyoFlash!
I wanna know the most awesome design you made with a 4 color press
I did a lot of awesome Rugby type designs back when I was new in the industry - on an OLD hopkins 4x1 press with WOOD screens. The artist was AMAZING.
colin huggins is it possible to show us?
@@Tristano.t I have not seen those shirts in.... oh gosh.... this was a LONG time ago... back in 1998 or so.
colin huggins aaah thats to bad i would realy love to see what a 4 color press can do to the max
czcams.com/video/ucnh5j5jZC0/video.html
what is a smoothing screen?
Hi! At the 21 minute mark you see a blank screen being used to help smooth out the shirt fibers that are sticking up through the white base. You can see this in use and described better in the video for printing white ink with a smoothing screen: czcams.com/video/dNXuo9yAyFk/video.html
@@Ryonetthank you! watching again and taking more notes!
I don't know anything about screen printing, and have no real clue about how close the screen should be to the material to be printed on. 1/8 th inch? 1/16 th? Everything will be trial and error, for me, it seems.
It all takes practice but the width of a quarter is a great place to start for off-contact! You should join us for an in-person two day class! scrnprntl.ink/SPE
@ryonet Can the Riley Hopkins 150 press hold 4 screens that are 23x31?
Good morning, @Nathan Judds. It will. However, please keep in mind that the pallet it comes with is 16x16. So you may be limited on how large your image can be by pallet size comparative to the screens. you could go with a larger pallet though. Hope that helps.
@@Ryonet That's good news, I will probably pick one of those up! Could someone could make a custom pallet for the press relatively easy?
😮
Pretty sweet, right!
I hope you are in good health. There are symptoms of the flu on you.
Wearing a mask keeps moisture in my nose... so it gets a little runny.
I have a couple questions if you could answer please!
1. Can i cure with a flash dryer?
2. If i can , how long do i flash the shirt for if the flash dryer im using is 2000 watts and is fixed at 400 C
Hi Kayla. Yes, you can cure any ink with a flash dryer. We do have a couple of videos that you can watch that will walk you through the process. We also have plans for an updated video on curing ink. As for how long to flash with your flash unit - flash long enough, so the ink is dry to the touch and not sticky. No One can give you an exact time for this. It is dependent on how warm your ink is, your ink deposit thickness, how warm your platens are, the ink itself, and how far your flash is above your platen. 1 inch off will flash faster than 4 inches off.
colin huggins one more question if you dont mind is an white underbase only
Used on black shirts? Ill watch some videos and see what else i can learn
@@kaylachermolololo6401 the first reason to use an underbase is: A white underbase is used whenever you need the colors of your design to look like they do in the bucket. Say, you print yellow on a royal blue shirt... that yellow is going to tint towards a green shade. If you put white down first, that blocks the blue of the shirt and allows the yellow to remain truer in color. the second reason is: As a way to block dye migration when printing on poly and poly blended garments.
@@colinhuggins6164 colin you’re the only one i can relay on lol im having trouble finding any good answers my question is what can i do if i dont have a pressure washer? Well i can get one its just i dont have a water source and cant really spend money on anything like that so is there any alternative?
@@kaylachermolololo6401 oh goodness.... Water is pretty essential as its used as our source for rinsing clean and reclaiming / developing our screens. My thoughts are to create a recirculating system with filters to pull out all the particulate... but it is not going to be cheap... I'm sorry, but I do not have a good answer for you :(
Who's Ronald and why are you using his flash? :-)
#giveronaldsflashdryerback
lol, the naked truth is, if you've registered screens over 2 years alone you wouldn't need artwork to register 3 colour design unless its a 6 -8 colour point registration?
@Nga Vaka, little confused on your statement friend. can you please clarify?
The typical glove microbiologically flow because pail summarily knock inside a wistful authorization. tidy, fine plain
Seriously... It takes you that long to set up? 👎
Why does it sound like he's sick in every video????
My nose gets runny when I talk that much. My note to self is to take time for nose care....
Was thinkin the same thing. Never blows his nose just sniffles throughout the whole thing
That press is pure garbage without proper registration ... Waste of money better off with the more expensive Riley presses. This model is crap.
Hey, What's up, Chuck? Everyone has to start somewhere. Some printers need to start with something like this due to budget or maybe they are just printing on the hobby level. THat's what this press is designed for. Maybe they don't even know if they know if they like screen printing yet. While i agree with you (a little) that i would want to invest a little more for a Riley 300 or 350, that's not everyone's scenario, man. Have a great rest of your week, Chuck. Happy Printing.
😅