Making yellow linseed oil paint for a front door
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2019
- Next part in the making the victorian front door.
Part 4 is the glazing- • Poor man's stained gla...
Here I am making the paint for the Victorian front door and then painting the door. Linseed oil paint is quite expensive and since i needed a little of several colours it made sense to make my own. I previously made the White and Grey for my sash windows and the arched window.
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Yorkshire tea- (UK) amzn.to/2WUYBlv (USA) amzn.to/3heqfRQ
Earth Pigment- (UK) amzn.to/3yT2eFL
(USA)- amzn.to/3z0kPjn and amzn.to/3tu53w3 and amzn.to/38Q0v9Q
Boiled linseed oil (UK) amzn.to/3E3l5lj (USA) amzn.to/3BU71IU
zinc oxide- (UK) amzn.to/3yVMHFb (USA) amzn.to/3lglEzN
Linseed oil putty- (UK) amzn.to/3hhRDOY (USA)
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I love your approach to the work..
as a professional wood worker how build wooden doors for a living for 22 years it is great to see a traditional door made in a hybrid shop ..very very nice job
Thank you for shering ...🙏
Never thought that I would watch paint dry. Fabulous job, love the colour.
Thank you for showing the little imperfections and how to deal with them. Always nice to see craftsmen sharing tricks and being honest that even the best work is not perfect!
I`ve always wondered what made those UK doors look so amazing. tried to replicate myself with every invention you could come up with (obviously unseccsessfully). Now I know, lindseed paint. Thanks a lot mate.
I too wonder why I would sit & watch paint dry, but I did. You are a fascinating, highly skilful man & we viewers are SO fortunate to be able to take in your wonderful skills. I don't think, however, that I will be rushing in to start mixing my own paint. Thanks for sharing this all the same. Don from South Aust.
The glove over the can trick is brilliant.
I cant believe you didnt make your own brush! Half a job!
Great hack with the rubber gloves. I also give the one finger salute to paint jobs.
Love the fact you mix your own paints. TFS, G :)
I was thinking it looked extra thin, but the results speak for themselves. Nicely done.
I was a decorator for 30 years and started making linseed paint for some of my customers. Lovely paint but remember to make enough for the job , trying to mix another matching paint with a different batch of pigment is very difficult !
Warming raw linseed oil in a water bath helps get maximum penetration as a first "primer" coat. Long full length brush strokes will minimize brush marks. Fill holes before pigment coats and gently wipe with a rag with a little raw linseed oil on it. Mix/store paint in glass mason jars, it's easy to seal/reseal and make small batches. Paint is less likely to stick to glass over time. Purified raw linseed oil along with the zinc oxide (15-20%) will help with mold/mildew and cleaning.
Good tips! You can also add 0.5-1% orange oil or turpentine for better penetration with linseed oil :)
@@AndreaArzensek Good tip too, actually I'd do the filling after a first coat of a diluted linseed oil paint.
@@richardmckrell4899 It sounds like you use a lot of linseed paint. Generally speaking, on an exterior application such as cedar siding, how many years should you get before it starts fading out and needing more applied? Also, is there something to add to it to help with mold and mildew growth?
I really enjoy the DIY aspect of making your own paint divorced from the commercial 'miracle products' available today. It goes to show that most new technologies have drawbacks as well, and in this case you should stick with the old style of which the major downside seems to be lack of convenience . A quick search for pigments and linseed oil shows it might often be cheaper to mix your own as well. Also - cool factor - it's really cool! I'm a nut for natural wood grain in anything from framing lumber to rosewood, but I will be painting a project using a linseed base recipe at some point so thanks for the inspiration ;)
Great job on using the authentic materials; pitch pine and linseed oil paint!
The yellow is a nice pastel shade and spreads quite well by the looks of it. Great video mate 😉
I enjoyed watching how you put this door together, but I'd sure like to see it finished and installed.
you can see the finished door at the end of the poor mans stained glass video
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop poor mans stained glass
Stunning!! I might need one for home!
That turned out very nice.
I've never seen paint made in that way before, but I'll bet your workshop smell absolutely lovely. Thanks for some interesting content - subbed and looking forward to more.
I have no idea who told You that, but linseed oil based paints are not capable of letting any air nor steam through. In fact- hardened linseed oil creates one of the toughest natural polymers known to man. It is resistant to most strong solvents and even to some strong acids. It is durable, easy to make and cheap, but the coat it creates is homogenous and air-tight. Which isn't bad for the wood as it doesen't allow any harmful sulfur oxides and other nasty stuff get into the wood. Great job!
Linseed oil paint is efficient, non-toxic & cost effective. Adding the yellow pigment brings out the beauty of this door.
Brilliant! Thank you.
If you paint over linseed putty straight away using linseed oil paint there’s a chance that it will blister especially with darker colours (dark greens and black) and where the object, window or door, is getting heat from the sun. South or west facing windows are especially prone to this even in the UK. It’s cosmetic as the blisters reduce in time but easily avoided by waiting a day or two for the putty to start forming a skin.
Beautiful 🎉
The color looks like the stripe on the hulls of old sailing ships. *hums contentedly*
Ohh great master of the craft. Thanks for all the great videos and answers as well. Can you tell me what and how much maintenance is needed on such doors painted with oil?
It's also good to consider your use of pigments. If you had used a little bit of raw umber, which would not have changed the color at all, your paint would be dry as a bone overnight. This will also give you a stronger natural paint film that will not lift when you add further coats.
How would adding a brown pigment not change the colour and speed up drying time so dramatically? Makes no sense
@@kcChicken123 lots of things make no sense when we're ignorant to them, but that's okay. let me see if I can help- raw umber is low in tinting strength(meaning it's rather transparent and a small drop doesn't effect the overall yellow ocher color), and contains manganese, which has siccative, or rapid drying effect on oil paint- brown earths are the fastest driers, along with lead, which is why painters use brown earths for underpainting- of course you can try it yourself or investigate further. I was just trying to be helpful to another fellow restore and share something the old timers passed on to me.
@@josephdolderer what awesome info! Please make some videos to keep passing on the old timers info....it's getting lost. I'm trying to figure out custom made Linseed paints. Do you have any thoughts on how long linseed paint should last on exterior cedar siding? I don't want to have to scrape peeled and cracking paint anymore so considering switching to a linseed product which I heard more just fades away rather than peel/crack so you can easily reapply more.
This video is far more interesting than watching paint dry.
Enjoying your process I was wondering if anyone ever considers fewer coats to leave simply a wash as to be able to further appreciate the grain and the beautiful woodwork
I'm hooked on watching your videos, a true craftsman. You mention in one of your comments that you were planning to add another layer of linseed oil paint and then wax, would that be beeswax?
Amazing vid as always.
5:19 screw you air :D
BLO is my favourite wood finish as it's just soooooo good for the wood .....and you can make it into a feckin' paint .? ............iv'e got a chubby !
Really lovely!! How do you know which pigments to add and how much? All I can find are for artists and not for large projects. I’m restoring my tern roof and am having problems sourcing a linseed oil paint where I live. I want to make a linseed blue or a patina green. Thank you for any advice!
I just started mixing and adding pigment until it look ok! turned out quite nice.
they tend to sell earth pigment in better quantities in places where you can buy lime and other traditional building materials, like for mixing into lime wash and cement etc as it is the same stuff. you used to be able to get it from B&Q in the UK for mixing into portland cement but they changed it from a powder pigment to some kind of liquid which isnt any good. if you are in the UK you can get it from here- www.lime.org.uk/ty-mawr-pigments.html
it is cheaper because it isnt as finely ground as the stuff in artist paint, but is fine for making linseed paint for decorating wood.
Awesome job!!! Has that linseed oil paint held up real good being exterior? Its been at least 4 years so long enough to be a pretty good assessment of durability. I heard at some point it becomes chalky like and you can just wipe on more plain lindseed oil and it keeps going more years.
Would love to hear about your experiences using it!
Beautiful!
Did you let each layer dry fully before applying the next one? And if so, how long did it take? I know you said a few days, but is it more like 1-2 or 4-5 etc?
yes it is what is called a drying oil, meaning it dries from contact with oxygen in the air, sealing a previous coat in when it is still a bit wet will make it take much longer to dry. it was taking 3 or 4 days to dry a point that i could sand it without galling up the sand paper, that was in summer so it was fairly warm.
Store-bought linseed oil paint advertises 24 hours between coats but that's the absolute minimum.
Can you mix linseed oil with acrylic paint for durability?
👍
Looking really good!
Can you spray a lin seed oil finish?
Thanks David! Ive seen it thinned and sprayed onto rusty metal which i guess is quite porous, it might be ok to spray on very porous wood but for non porous wood it goes on in very thin layers and needs to be worked into the surface so i dont think spraying is ideal.
NO mate, you DON'T go SPRAYING linseed oil finish on wood. What you're missing is elbow grease! Go down to your local DIY (hardware if you're a Yankee) and ask for five gallons of non refined elbow grease. Also ask for a special bowed window hammer, to bend the glass a little more. Then you could place an order for a wood thicknessing plane, just in case you took too many shavings off. You might find a special application on your I-Phone that'll do all in one.
@@musamor75 ah ill have to get a link to that iPhone app, that's sounds really handy-dandy!
Since linseed oil produce heat when exposed to the air how warm does door get?
Wow - you must be really convinced of the long term performance of that paint to put up with the long and fiddly application process!
yeah it seems like isnt exactly practical when you compare it to modern diy type paints, but you know 20 years later when the wood has rotted from the inside out because that modern paint didnt let moisture breath out of the wood. linseed works out much cheaper and simpler when compared to commercial multi stage coatings that are guaranteed though because it is primer, sand, more primer, sand, under coat, sand, more under coat, sand, final colour, done. so personaly i think i is worth it
I didn't notice, maybe I missed it, did you put in any Japan Drier to the paint mix?
A real classic masterpiece with your home-made paint. I wonder how many coats the door finally had, and what the inside finish was? Presumably the bottom & side edges were well sealed too to prevent absorbing the rain? I remember using linseed oil on my cricket bat when I was a lad.
I love the idea of linseed oil paint. As per usual, the internet is full of all kinds of advice about what oil to use. Which BLO do you start with for your paints? Do you think it matters?
yeah too true. I think boiled is better because the microbes are killed and less likely to go mouldy while drying, and ries faster. which brand doesnt matter i think, probably all the same.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop I have found the best results with purified linseed oil. With ordinary BLO from hardware stores, the results have not been good. Yellowing and longevity are much better with purified oil. Look at the video "Generic Linseed Oil Vs. Purified Linseed Oil" from "Earth+Flax Studio". You can refine linseed oil at home, look for the video "Making Your Own Refined Linseed Oil Like the Old Masters", however, I find no cost advantage in making your own. Allback Linseed Oil is what I used to make paint, with the recipe matching yours.
Looks great, just found your channel, and I’m really enjoying your videos. I’m really interested in making my own linseed oil paint. May I ask, for the paint are you using boiled or natural linseed oil? Is there a ‘special’ brand that is clearer than the stuff I use which is fairly yellow? Also do you grind the pigment that you buy, it just add as it comes?
Hi Deema. Im using the boiled stuff as it is supposed to dry faster, but without the zinc oxide is still takes a week or so to dry so i think it is just the nature of the oil in general. i used Barretine brand but i really dont think it matters too much unless you are doing fine art type oil painting, it is all generally yellow colored. you will only notice the yellow on white paint and it only tends to be visibly yellow when it is not exposed to sunlight, i noticed this recently when opening some of the sash windows id painted and the closed off areas looked yellowish and the exposed areas were still pure white which was contrary to my own expectations.
I didnt grind it at all, when mixing it did seem a little gritty but that didnt seem to reflect on the finish at all. although when painting the grey paint i would occasionally get some black streaks i guess from a lump of black pigment but it was always easy to blend in with the brush.
im no expert but i hope that helps.
Where do you buy the paint powders from? I am looking for white kaolinite powder.
June 11, 2023
Can chalk be added to make it a little thicker?
if you wanted to keep the natural look of the wood (and who doesn't love natural wood) and still preserve it, what would you use? clear varnish?
im not a big fan of varnishes for wood so would err on the side of linseed oil, even though it needs regular maintenance. it allows the wood to breath so it doesn't hold water behind the finish like with varnishes
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Thanks :)
Keeping it classy by not putting the handle of the paintbrush up through the middle finger of the glove used to seal the pot overnight.
Hi, very useful video. Is there a particular type of zinc oxide to use? The stuff I'm looking at on ebay is listed as Pharma / cosmetic grade. is this the correct stuff? Thanks, Ralph the Joiner , Yorkshire Dales.
A brilliant job, Would painting it flat on the bench have caused fewer runs ?
probably but would have taken too much space and could only do one side at a time, with a 3 day dry time per coat it isnt practical.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop I did realize that afterwards, thank you for your reply
the car! what is it? how about an episode on that?
its the 15 year itch! i keep getting asked about it so im hopefully going to white a blog post as an introduction to it soon so subscribe here www.newyorkshireworkshop.co.uk if you dont want to miss it, i dont have time to work on it recently (last 4 or 5 years) but hopefully soon. i say that every year!
What ratios of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide to linseed oil did you use to make the white paint you started with? Thanks
Hi, I did write down what i used but i lost it in the messy workshop! i reckon it was a good 400-500 (maybe more) grams of the titanium dioxide plus 250 grams of the Zinc to 1 litre of oil. that should be a good starting point for you. even with quite a lot of pigment you will still find you need a good few (maybe 4 or 5) coats with white since still isnt overly opaque.
Why didn't you read some of the comments? The answers are given several times over.
Have you tried this with raw linseed oil? just wondered what was better as I've heard different opinions.
No i only used the boiled stuff, as far as im aware the raw stuff just takes longer to dry, even the boiled stuff takes a good 7-10 days or so to dry in warm weather (without the Zinc added) so i think ill stick with the boiled!
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop the raw linseed oil thens to be stickier and I find, harder to work with.
What pigments do you use?
Zinc Oxide, and Natural Sienna- which is a soft yellow. What mad for the very pleasant light colour was whitening the Sienna with the opaque Zinc Oxide.
Recipe for white paint. 125g ZnO (0:24) and 750g TiO2 (0:52) per litre of oil.
Let's spend a word also for the quality of the door
Would it b fair to say that this paint if bought at a store would cost a lot of money. Is it 3 times more expensive to buy or is it just one and half times more to buy such paint? I wonder if one were to ask you to make this paint for them what sort of cost savings they would have at all, guessing it being one of a kind it isn't easy to price either.
Sorry, did I miss something....? How is this linseed oil paint? When did you add the linseed and how much? Did you use cold pressed; sun dried or boiled?
just pigment in oil?
Wait, what is linseed putty? Do you make it or buy it?
Still able to buy it ready to use
After watching all the previous construction videos, what feels like must be a $12,000 door... is painted with what looks like a $1 brush from a bargain bin. Am I missing something?
There was also a comment in here about spraying, where you commented spraying would not be as good for this porous surface. At first, I agree with you the first coats should be done by brush for the exact reason you state. But as even you state in a comment somewhere else in here, once the first layers are on, you're not painting the door anymore but rather adding layers on top of the existing layers of paint. And those aren't porous.
When I paint doors such as these, aesthetically I try and make the brush marks "make sense." The brush strokes should logically follow the pieces of the door. But this door has some unusual places where horizontal and vertical pieces meet which made me wonder what I would do as I watched you paint. My conclusion was that it would look best sprayed with a HVLP sprayer. I think brush strokes add character (if done right) and a HVLP sprayer will basically be a glass-finish, but for this piece I'd be ok with that. It's just... BREATHTAKING!
i havent tried it so i could be completely wrong, my gut feeling though is it wouldnt work too well. you would need a very fine mist to put just enough on the surface, and the pigment might clog up a fine nozzle gun. you would have a hard time fine tuning the setup just pefectly as it is a fine line between a good finish and having runs. i also think it would just bead up on the surface, especialy on subsequent coats,, it kind of needs working in with a brush. like i said i could be wrong, id be intetested in hearing how you get on if you try it.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Yes, HVLP sprayers are pretty much as fine a mist as you can get. Have you ever seen cabinets sprayed smooth as glass? That's HVLP.
You are right that it would take some tweaking to get the consistency right, but... it's not like you just poured the perfect amount of pigment in the linseed initially, either. haha Getting the viscosity right for a HVLP takes a little getting used to, but it can be done.
And, again, you're right that the initial coat(s) would benefit from a brush putting pressure into the pores of the wood, but at some point (after a good first coat), you're not doing that anymore. Each subsequent layer sits on top of the previous, it's not going into the wood at all anymore it's just leveling on top. You can FEEL it. When you put a primer on wood, the grain expands as it soaks in. Even if it was smooth before you painted, after the primer it will feel *incredibly* rough. That's because the pores expanded. But after you lightly sand that coat and paint again, you'll notice that doesn't happen again. The only texture you feel is whatever stipple is inherent with your application method. The new layer of paint is now just sitting on top of the previous layer of paint, not soaking into the wood.
Experiment with it. If you end up even half as good with painting as you do with the wood working, you'll be amazing. I'm still in awe from watching you build in this video!
You're talking from America. You people do everything mechanically. You use machines for everything. You have no stick shifts (gears in your lingo) in your cars- it's just too much to change gears by hand. A paint brush is too much work, eh? The problem is, that oils cannot be easily sprayed, and they cannot easily penetrate the surface, as by being rubbed by hand. Your problem is impatience. You want the end result, in NO time. You talk about "glass" finishes. Oil simply cannot achieve this- its molecular structure doesn't allow it.
In case you might think of retaliating, don't bother. I worked in world renowned Paris restoration workshops. If you care to look up "French Polish" (that's not the country of Poland, but the finish YOU call "laquer") you will learn that this two hundred year old process allows the French Polisher to obtain glass like finishes on wood surfaces. To finish a grand piano in this fashion is more than a month's work. In your Yankee Dollars, this would be in the range of 12/15,000US$.
To come back to linseed oil, there is no finish that protects wood any better.
For An object to last for a long time, it takes a long time to reach that goal.
@@musamor75 // I'll bet you're a real joy to be around; or even hearing distance. You seem so understanding, edifying, and kind; not to mention being perfect while you "upvote" your own comments and all. Have a great day. :)
@@musamor75 Quite right...I sold paint in a(n) American hardware store for 16 years, and if a coating or finish schedule or technique was the least bit complex, or the product the least bit smelly, or the drying time more than an hour or so, NO SALE! My Granddad is spinning in his grave.
Ok, I might have missed that difference.
What's the car?
what type boiled linseed oil did you use?
barretine brand, i think it is generally all the same though
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop No, there are only a few actual boiled linseed oils.
@@richardmckrell4899 oh i didnt know that, what are they?
That one might be, you would have to check, Allback is an authentic boiled linseed oil.
🌟🌟💛🚪💛🌟🌟
Has this paint stood the test of time?
it has gone a bit powdery which is normal for linseed paint, im going to put another coat this summer and then wax it, it only had a few coats, i was supposed to put more on when it was fitted but never got around to it!
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Thanks for getting back. Yeah that's what I read and was thinking of using it on a window and door I'm making for my garage and probably will still do so actually. Nice work on the door by the way. Best wishes.
If you think that was less than 50g, don't even think about becoming a drug dealer :-) Stick to carpentry Russ! Great colour, very pleasing
Did my porch. All faded and chalked. When I applied more oil to seal it away black mold grew everywhere. Did my whole shed made some paint with iron oxide and titanium oxide nice green paint and same thing happened. It kept washing away. This is crap paint for indoor use only. Marine paint by rust oleum is like new on my garage door and chicken coop. Glad I did not do this there too.
Привет напиши пожалуйста индигриенты для покраски я переведу очень круто спасибо заранее
it is not critical for exact ingredients so you can experiment with this as a guide-
for white paint- 400-500 (maybe more) grams of the titanium dioxide plus 250 grams of the Zinc oxide (zinc oxide makes faster drying) to 1 litre of linseed oil
for grey paint- add small quantity of black iron oxide to the white (try increments of 5 grams to 1litre)
for yellow paint- add about 100 gram yellow iron oxide to the white.
Hope this helps!
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop благодарю вас
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop и ещё хотел бы узнать с какой вы страны? Я из Казахстана что по соседству с Россией зовут меня Дима если вы не против хотел бы у вас консультироваться если вам нужна какая либо информация обращайтесь и удачи вам во всем
Love watching your videos but you don't leave the comments on long enough to read it all.
Linseed oil contain phytoestrogens that may act like the original hormone (estrogen), in the body. So, it should not be used by pregnant and breastfeeding women and those with hormonal imbalance. Others too must use this product in moderation.
I think you might be confusing my linseed oil paint with flaxseed (other name for linseed) oil for medicinal purposes, definitely dont drink linseed oil paint whether pregnant or not!
That's a very nice soft, light yellow you got there. The Yellow Oxide reacts well to light. I'm flabbergasted at the number of idiotic comments abouts blokes (c****s) wanting to use air guns. Anyone ignorant enough not to know the sheer joy of using a brush should use a pencil instead. I told someone that. Nice job mate. I use linseed (boiled of course) all the time. Nothing else offers equal protection. Thumbs up.
Yeah im suprised how nice it came out, i wanted to add plenty of the white zinc to make it dry faster and i thought would make it a really pale yellow but it is nice and bright but not over the top! really happy with it.
Auuuuu, such a big Boss, and you don't have an air compressor and a gun for painting doors and windows.?
yes, i use it when appropriate
You blokes are a joke with your bloody air guns. If a paint brush is too heavy to push, try a pencil.
so sad to see the nice wood painted
Beautiful door, shame you painted it though. Would have just been nicer unpainted but each their own.
The Victorians did not have raw wood front doors. Not even the poor ones. That's some post 1940's Scandinavian thing.
@@lesdmark maybe not in England but they did here in Australia, but as its current day he could have easily left the timber on show
@@rachelhunting I suspect the historical council or whatever they are called would not have cared for that.
@@lesdmark only if you give a damn what they think
I think you'll find that he paints his doors, not just to paint them, but to PROTECT them. Wood always looks lovely "in the white" (unfinished), but will very grey and blistery in bad weather. You can always use the oil only, especially by diluting the first coats with 20 - 50% pure Turpentine. You have to be very patient about the drying- it's very, very long. But the is NO other protection that comes close to it. I've been advocating it for decades.
It is obvious you possess innate talent. Where did you acquire your knowledge?