Trek Powerfly 4 Brake Upgrade to Shimano XT 8120
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 04. 2022
- After riding this Trek Powerfly 4 for 2 years I still love it and would buy it again in a heartbeat. However, the one thing that bothers me is that when I'm finished riding my hands are tired from having to squeeze the brakes so hard. So I decided to do a brake upgrade into the Shimano XT 8120 brakes. They are dual caliper and fit right into the 203mm rotors that came with the bike. Follow along as I go through this upgrade!
Here is the link to purchase the right rear - amzn.to/3vtQT0B
Here is the link to purchase the left front - amzn.to/3s1cPy0 - Jak na to + styl
Very interesting, I also have a Trek PowerFly 4. I have also been considering some upgrades in line with what you've done so this is helpful.
Glad it helped, definitely worth the money!
Great video, thanks for sharing - I’ve also ordered these brakes + the ice tech discs, and a dropper post
That's cool. I just kept the stock 203's, I wonder if ice tech is better. I don't think I'll do a dropper because I'm 6'4" so my legs are already so long that I can just lean way back without it.
What dropper did you go for?
Thinking of adding one to my Powerfly 5 soon
@@R0BBS went with a oneup, really happy with it but it didn’t come with a cable or lever so had to purchase that separately
So your disks are compatible with the XT calipers?
@@oldkicker8958 Yep, they are decent 203's
Any updates with these brakes? I saw your review video over a year ago and actually waited until now to get the bike on sale. Thanks for your time making these videos!
I love these brakes! Definitely worth the money. I'm able to brake with 1 finger now which gives me a lot more control while riding. I'll post an update video soon!
Just got these brakes today along with the 203 ice tec rotors for my powerfly 4 👌🏻 hoping my bike guy has no issues installing the back brake with the way the wires are housed 😅😅
If I can do it, it will be easy for a bike tech!
Great video. If i need a upgrade i know where to go. I have the same bike.
Sounds good, I'm sure I'll think of something else to do in the future!
can't believe you didnt use internal routing tools! I am about to do this on my rail and want to see what it is like.....i think motor out is looking the simplest for me since it routes above the motor!
I wasn't aware of any routing tools? That may have been easier though I didn't think this was that difficult to do.
Also, aren't the brakes on the Rail already good?
I have a long tin bit of steel on top of the wires inside says do not remove??
As long as you're not messing with the battery wires your fine
are the break lines different or why not just reuse them for the back break and skip the hassle?
I asked the bike shop and they advised since the OE are Tektro and the new brakes are Shimano to not cross share the parts
One thing I noticed is your cockpit setup with the levers/controls relatively close to the grips/overlapping. After watching the linked video from Loam Wolf (braker lever setup starts at 5:20), I went back at my setup with a very critical eye. I ultimately moved most of the controls inward/away from the grips to insure I had unimpeded grip/no rubbing accidental contact with dropper control, shifters, etc. This also gave me easy 1 or 2 finger reach to the brake levers at the point of maximum leverage and no potential from contact with my knuckles. It does require that the brake levers go on the bars first then the other controls spaced between them and the grips. Not the way it comes from the shop, but I think it makes things accessible without requiring the grip 'resets' I was making to reach shifters, up for brakes, etc. YMMV.
czcams.com/video/a60AfEQJDzU/video.html
Thanks for posting that pro setup video, that was very interesting! It's definitely YMMV but there's some good tips in there.
I've about convinced myself to ignore the dealer (about upgrading to a Rail) and pulling the trigger on a new Pike Ultimate 2023 RC3 fork. I can get the 130mm travel fork now, but the 120mm is still out of stock. Not sure that it makes much difference with just a 10mm change.
I did a lot of research on the travel and came to the conclusion that with the geometry of this bike it's important not to go higher than 120mm. Will the 10mm make a noticeable difference? Let me know once you ride for a while!
@@CarolinaCowboys it’s a moot issue. I kept looking at the costs vs benefit and realized I’d have as much or more tied up as getting a Rail 7. The dealer offered me trade-in of 75% of what I had paid; short story is - Traded the PF4 for the Rail 7. I’m amazed at how much faster it is than the PF4 on downhill coasting - opposite of what I expected based on tire width. The geometry seems a bit more comfortable with less forward weight shift for seat/pedal distance adjustment. That has been the biggest issue for, being 6’3” - bike stack/reach does not retain the ‘normal’ weight distribution when I get the saddle /pedal distance set correctly. The Rail seems to be better in that regard (plus I stayed with a L frame size instead of the recommended XL). My test ride this AM to check my fitting adjustments was more comfortable than my best effort to date on the PF4. That seems counter intuitive, but it is the case.
I will, at some point, upgrade to the new 2023 RockShox Charger 3 design fork, but not for at least a year.
@@gclaytony very nice, enjoy!
@@gclaytony Very nice!
Ooch - that’s what vice grips are for
Exactly!