Aermacchi Fork Mods // Paul Brodie's Shop
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 9. 04. 2021
- No matter how careful I am working on forks, I always end up with oil on the floor and other places. But, there is a satisfaction as my race bike edges closer to completion. đ€đ
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Your safety comment were level headed and to the point. Thank you for not throwing a fit and calling everyone names :)
Throwing a fit and name calling serves no real purpose... Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie not all creators are created alike :) thanks for making the videos!
Love your vids!
Yeah, duden er her og!!
And yours 2.
Back to work @2STROKE STUFFING.
Hah, you hit my memory button twice. First, my phone call to Yoshimura about my '78 Suzuki GS 1000, and second, re-valving forks on same by welding up holes and drilling new......following a set of drawings and instructions from a friend and they looked just like yours. Still have that bike, but mostly just look at it now...
"...mostly just look at it now..." I feel a similar passage of passion in myself, especially during this pandemic. It just doesn't feel as needed as before. God bless.
As an old Jeweller, it was nice to see that you clean your file as we were taught to clean our hand files.
Only difference being that we'd use scrap brass, most likely because brass is always within Jewellery workshops.
Paul, tip from the Netherlands; chalk your file before it is used. The chalk get's into the bottom of the grooves so no metal can stick there. Rinse and repeat during the use of the file. Cleaning the file becomes much more easy that way. Especially on soft metals like aluminum. I use a piece of brass to clean my files because I experienced it works quicker and also on residues of steel or stainless steel. Another tip; use a candle to grease your bandsaw or circular saw when cutting aluminum. It prevents the clogging of the teeth and cuts faster. Thank you! Best, Job
Thank you.
The safest thing i always see you do, is you're never in a hurry, and you think through what you're doing. And you keep a nice clean work space. That eliminates a lot of room for accidents. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks Paul and Mitch for taking the time to share.
Thanks Dustyn. It might seem like I'm never in a hurry, but when Mitch shows up, I only have 3 and a bit hours to get the job done, otherwise we have to do a "part 2"... So, I do feel that pressure, but hopefully it doesn't show in the video...
@@paulbrodie no, you never look rushed.
I'm not really into bikes, but I am into quality and passionate workmanship. PB is the kinda dude you could chat to forever and not be bored. This channel is legit amazing, thank you for the free awesome content. Everyone should shout you and Mitch a coffee.
Thank you Shotgun!
All the years and the hundreds of forks I have replaced seals in there is still something to learn! I especially like the toothbrush on a stick to clean inside the lower fork tube! Thanks,Paul!
Doug, I am still learning too.. Thanks for watching!
Boy you are a master of what you do. I have only cringed at 1 episode where I thought of your safety, and that was when you machined brake linings without a respirator. You had stated in the video that the linings may have asbestos in them. Having had several friends die of mesothelioma, it is the one thing that really frightens me. I am missing bits of fingers, burned myself and lost my fair share of skin to rotating devices. Fortunately, as our friends from Monty Python would say "its only a flesh wound". Thank you for what you and Mitch do Paul. I am learning so much. A coffee will be coming soon.
Thanks for your comments, and thanks for watching!
this channel is my favourite new discovery
Paul, the TRS trials bike in the background Is talking to me & it wants to go outside for a run. How about a video of you relaxing and taking her for a ride. đ
You're not the first one who has mentioned that...
I always liked the old MG motto - Safety Fast!
I use those yellow ear plugs always when I'm working too đ
Mitch anticipates well and always seems to get just the right shot.
Thanks, Ricardo. Iâm starting to figure out how Paul works đ.
Paul, I agree with you about have hard and fast "rules". Of course there has to be some direction but judgement has to rein, as you pointed out. It's hard with a student because you have to point out the hazard and how to manage it but at an early stage , there isn't the experience built that becomes part of good judgement. So it depends on a person's relative experience. Like you, there are sometimes I will not follow the established "rule" but sometimes stick to it fastidiously. It's so dependent on experience. And for what it's worth, I've seen all kinds of little tips that are safer ways than I am used to, so good job on that. :)
Thanks Ed!
Iâve only recently discovered all your amazing videos. I love them, the techniques and your easy style of presentation. My interests are identical to yours. Iâm a former late 60âs and early 70âs motorcycle racer and, most recently a classic racer on a 1968 replica 350/4 Benelli. Iâm a self taught motorcycle âengineerâ with no formal qualifications. My shop has the basic lathe, drill press, bandsaw, MIG welder etc etc, just enough to keep me busy. Iâve done quite a bit on all aspects of motorcycle engineering, especially on forks. Watching this video, I was perplexed when, at the final stage, you found the fork springs were too long and opted to âshortenâ them. The original springs would have had a rate of about 40 ft/lbs. but cutting 2â off them would have significantly increased the spring rate (as the overall length and wire diameter is what determines the rate). You probably know that, but I was surprised you made no mention of that change. If youâd measured the spring rate of the cut off part it would have been astronomical, not a very short 40 ft/lb spring. Keep up the great work, Iâm very impressed indeed!
I shortened the springs because I shortened the fork tubes and also added that 6061 spacer... effectively restricting the travel to 4.5" from probably 6 or 7". Yes, that did change the spring rate, but works very well on a lightweight (221 lb) road racer. Thanks for watching!
One year...thanks Paul and the enigmatic Mitch...
Use your propane torch on the outside area of lower leg where the seals are. They generally pop right out.
I very much enjoy your bicycle work but when you add an internal combustion engine to the mix it elevates my interest many orders of magnitude.
Thank you to Mitch and yourself for the time you take to share your work.
Thanks for watching!
Lovely work, sheâs coming on a treat.
Looking good
Nice! Starting to come together nicelyđ€
Paul, you are amazing! Thank you for the content.
Always a pleasure watching your videos!
I absolutely love the little tips and hints that come from your experience! Learned three new things from your video. A socket slide hammer? Genious! Looking forward to more!
Love the vids. A tip from dirt bikes, leave the damper retention screw At the bottom loose but not totally removed. Then use the fork slider to pop the seals out the amount of space you created loosening the screw., like a slide hammer.
Thanx for the video . đ
Nice work đđ.. Ich bin jedesmal begeistert
Like always....thank you and Mitch for the jobs you do. Very nice to the eye my friends đâđŻâ€đ€đ€
I'm loving this build. Thanks for sharing.
Justin, thanks for watching!
Beautiful looking bike, really coming together. Your stuff just looks right - âif it looks right, it is rightâ. Thanks Paul (and Mitch). Les in UK
I agree, " if it looks right, it usually is right". Thanks Les :)
@@paulbrodie Ferdinand Porsche: Form follows function đđŒđ
@@Farlig69 I'm with you.
Another great video. Thanks for sharing with us. Dan
Tis comin along nicely.
Some of your best editing yet Mitch. Very nice. I enjoyed the music too! Keep it up boys!
Thanks Dave! I appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching đ
Gloves always a hot topic.
Thanks guys you made my morning! When it comes to motorcycles I'm self taught too, and learning more all the time, especially when there's great content like this to pick up some good tips!
Never Stop Learning
I like your attitude. Thanks for watching!
Anything that has something spinning is a no go for gloves! Tig welding small things without gloves, fine in my books.
Happy birthday to this Channel! A year offering great knowledge in all your videos. Thanks for all this year, I really learned so much about fabrication watching this videos. Now, let's go for a coffee đ
Awesome, thank you!
Brilliant work sir.
Thank you so much :)
Your bike is really looking good Paul.
Love the trick at 22 minutes with the emmery paper and battery drill - take of a few "thou"
Yes, that worked very nicely!
My rule of thumb is: If the machine youâre running can pull a glove into it, donât wear one. Use clamps (not gloves) to hold material firmly while you drill etc. Gloves may help you hold a piece of sheet metal at the drill press, but they wonât do anything to prevent that piece from getting picked up by the drill, spinning around, and lacerating your torso wide open. Proper work holding prevents so many of these injuries whether large or small. In almost all cases, the gut feeling of wanting gloves (specifically on a machine where theyâre dangerous) is a big red flag that you could be making other (better) safety improvements instead
Wow. I feel like I just got a lecture.
Amazing job!!!
If someday you need custom spring for your motorcycle forks near my house has a custom springs workshop. From rc shocks springs to bike fork springs. Not recommended for rear shocks but last forever on forks. I order one pair for my Marzocchi Monster in 1999 and after 22 years springs still in perfect shape.
A tube on the floor to throw the damper tube down makes a great slide hamm... like you just said.
Servicing seals. I forgot the Betor units had two seals, kinda nasty. On Japanese machines, it was easiest from the git-go to collapse the seals by driving the body inward with a screwdriver, much as you had to do with a punch getting the outer portion broken free. Very little strain and damage to the slider grooves. High praise for your work on these forks.
yes, next time I will try collapsing the seal inwards. Thanks.
Lovin the Motorcycle video!! Your an awesome fabricator Paul it shines through in everything you do... Didnt mean to rhyme lol
I really enjoyed this episode. So much good work condensed in a 35 minutes video đâïž
Thank you.
Another GREAT video Paul. I've rebuilt a lot of forks over the years but never cut any down or modded to that extent. I think I would feel comfortable now.
I work in the industrial maintenance field and our company has gone bat shit crazy with the whole safety first crap. I appreciate the safety third aspect more than you realize. Like you I am very safety minded in not only what I am doing in the shop but what I am building and knowing it will need to be safe for me and especially my son but sometimes the safety police that have never done anything but type on a keyboard get annoying to listen to.
Keep the videos coming Paul. Thoroughly enjoying them and your approach to things.
Mike
Thank you Mike!
Teaching myself to weld.
Now l need a lathe, then a mill.
What have l done.
Hah.
Signed ;
22 yrs. Retired
AFM, CCS.
What you're doing sounds great to me!
Congrats on a year of youtube. I can say I have enjoyed watching them all. Must be time to buy you gents coffee again.
Thank you.
Very satisfying! Your channel has turned out to be a great COVID project!
Thank you! Cheers!
Sometimes a drywall screw screwed into the seal will give more purchase to remove the seal
Ciao,
Ferodo Vasilini
Thanks Paul. I'm probably a bit late to the party on your comments about safety but I think you're absolutely right about what's needed for different scenarios.
I used to work at an aluminum foundry cutting runners off aluminum castings with a band saw and used to wear gloves. The reason I wore gloves in that scenario was to stop myself from getting spiked by the sharp end of the pour on the runners. Turns out this ended up being a mistake and I learnt my lesson. We were using very coarse blades for this job and the end of my glove got caught on the blade and it sucked my thumb into the blade and ripped (not cut) the end of my thumb open. It was extremely painful. There was a lot of blood and I was lucky it wasn't worse than that.
I'm not sure whether this was because of lack of training but I sorta think back on that scenario and think maybe I should have been using something like a push stick or we should have taken the time to knock of the pour spikes.
Agree 100% about gloves usage
Congratulations on the year milestone Mitch and Paul! I appreciate your safety discussion and I'm certain that you know what you are doing with regard to safety. That comes from years of experience and I'm sure some wise mentors as well. The comment section on CZcams can be entertaining, but please don't give those voices (including mine!) too much sway.
Thank you Matt. We do read the comments, and sometimes feel the need to mention something in a later video. Thanks for watching!
You are a living Legend. I love your style! I wish I could be your apprentice... You really show that all of this stuff while not being very easy, it ain't rocket science. Stuff can't just be made by big companies with hundredths of engineers. Everyone with the right knowledge and skills can do amazing stuff. I really hope that some day I will have a shop with a lathe and a mill... You inspire me to be more and do more. Thank you for making these videos!
Very nice comment, thank you! I do hope you get a shop and make a whole bunch of cool stuff :)
@@paulbrodie :D Thx.
by the way a collaboration with ThisOldTony (or other similar CZcamsr) would do wonders for your channel. I think his viewers would appreciate your videos too. He is into Trial Bikes (and a lot of other stuff) maybe you can make an amazing part for him...
@@LuckySlevin7 I did not know that ThisOldTony was into trials bikes. If you introduce us I would be happy to make an "amazing" part for him. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie oh I am just one of a million subscribers that he has... but on the next video he uploads if I am early I will try to shout you out.
@@LuckySlevin7 Thanks, that would be cool!
Paul, you've done your entire career work with weld equipment, drill press, band saws, lathes you name it. You know when to be cautious and when you can give some leeway. The fact that you don't weld all day long and when you do, you apparently use oxyacetylene and tig mostly, there's not really that much sparks flying around. Radiation isn't even that big of an issue.
But still, the people bashing you for not wearing a face shield all day, gas mask when brazing or gloves when doing any operation whatsoever, have probably done one bicycle worth of work during their entire life. It's just the type of person that gets triggered by someone not doing exactly what they expect.
i'm going to bet that most peple with strong opinions on safety don't, or only rarely, use machine tools. i was always taught to never wear gloves with fast rotating machinery, for obvious reasons. but i agree with your assessment, i sometimes use thin gloves on the lathe/mill. and they've saved me from injury a few times. i think it's far more important to be fully focused.
I agree with you. Thanks for watching!
Proper clamping of material on any operation saves accidents....stuff spins pretty fast on a drill press..
Usually gloves are a no no on most tools...as you risk grabbing...long sleeves too ( your lathe use ) are also not recommended...but being safe is easy to forget till you get whacked...
15 years in fab plenty of accidents experienced and observed I am a no glove guy on press as I clamp everything but if I had a bandsaw not sure because of sharp wood or steel. Handles on files around lathes is important though if not that can end bad as can straps of emory cloth on lathes arm over bed etc.
Molto interessante, buon lavoro fatto i tuoi video sempre molto interessanti e istruttivi.....
Excellent work! Flexible conduit gland preload đ€Šââïž
Remembering the handlebars is a good skill to hold on to.
What is the source for the fork mods. Air Machee club ?, your racing development? Fellow racers?
No mention of spring lb rate ? Your weight,?
and how about your fork oil weight?, cc amount ?
Your right, not many out here racing Air Machee 's so all of this quite esoteric. Its your machine shop skills that are the attraction here. Fantastic. Work safe. It just takes 1 second to loose a finger, an eye, your life. Great channel đđ
CD in New Hampshire
Bikes I've raced:
Norton Commando
Yamaha TA125
Honda MT125
Yamaha TZ250D
Moto Morini 350 Sport
Laverda 1000 3C
Ducati 250 Desmo Sport Corsa
Laverda 750 SFC
Kawasaki 600 Ninja
BMW R69 kneeler sidecar
I had no idea how to modify an MX fork for road racing, so I contacted Lindemann Racing (I think...) in California back in 2000, they said they could do it for $300 USD plus shipping, so that's what happened. When I got the fork back I took it all apart to see what they had done. Pretty simple really, but it works fine... You have raced a lot of different bikes!
When I clean a file, I just use a small brass brush. The brass should be soft enough not to damage the hardened tool steel and it just gets so much easier into a lot of grooves at once.
Yes, that can work. I just use a piece of aluminum and rub it back and forth along the teeth.
In the drill press and the lathe I after some near misses used thin gloves that shred if caught,,,used to b a professional guitarist so dirty fingers were to avoid....
Yes, latex or nitrile gloves can work for certain situations.
Use some heat on the fork seals....it will loose up any rust/corrosion or steel against alum issues....plus expand the alum ...
hey paul for the seals you can use a open-ended-wrench ( in the case of my mtb a 15mm ) I always thaught of suspension as verry deliate and sensitve and the slightest scratch will damage them, but seeing you punding out that seal with a pimch made me laughđ
and seeing 30mm stancions on a dirtbike-fork made me gođ€Ż because my mtb has 35mm and a normal dh-mtb has 40 , so those with all that weight and power must be quite flexy or extremly heavy đ±
âThe safety police, they live inside of my head
The safety police, they come to me in my bed
The safety police, they're coming to arrest me, oh no...â - Cheap Trick
Investing in crypto now should be in every wise individuals list, in some months time you'll be ecstatic with the decision you made today.
2 viewers hate Cheap Trick.
@@836dmar Canât please all of the people all of the time. đ
chalking the file prevents most pinning and what pinning does still happen is easier to card out
That was a fun vid.
Your far more polite about setting a good example but I guess people are too dumb to think of consequences re wearing gloves or not?
Personally, I wouldn't hold fork leg near the oil seal housing, they distort way too easy.
I always found it better to hold across the axle boss as it's solid and flat sided. It does mean you have to either have tube upright or supported if laying down so it doesn't pivot.
Heating top makes seal removal easier although the metal seals 'always' stick (even when 'new>3 yr old')
Most Japanese bikes over 400cc from late 60's through early 80's use 35mm fork tubes so real easy to find, even Harley Davidson used them on Sportsters for years.
They will usually be much heavier than Betor though with about 4mm wall thickness
Motorcycle fork tubes are made from a carbon spring steel. Some places that repair industrial hydrualic cylinders can re-chrome and grind to size although it doesn't seem to be common any longer?
I've made a lot of hydraulic piston rods , it's hard on tooling cutting through the chrome but more practical than grinding it off in most cases, particularly on larger diameters.
The bottom out cone you removed at the start should be mated to the internal alloy piece and give a progressive hydraulic lock as forks near maximum travel - last 1.5 inches or so
Sounds like you had had some experience here! Those seals really were tough to remove. I figure they had been in there close to 50 years! I don't think you could re-hard chrome the legs and have them ground, mostly because the fork legs never really run perfectly true. You would have the chrome stripped, lightly polish the legs, and then have them "flash chromed", hoping the plater didn't leave them in the tank too long! Bit of a gamble...
@@paulbrodie It used to be a pretty common repair at one time for hydraulic piston rods (probably still is for the larger diameters, >6"?)
Original chrome is either chemical stripped (reverse electrolysis) or ground off.
Because fork tubes are spring steel, it isn't too difficult to straighten them before having work done (particularly 'old' stuff with thick wall, Icould almost always get to 0.001" run out over tube length)
Hard chrome is generally applied about 0.010"~0.015" thick but pretty ugly so needs grinding back to size (and 'nice' finish). Big pits could be bronze welded. It was never really 'cheap' but usually less than half the price of new tubes.
'Flash' chrome is generally considered to be the decorative stuff and probably less than 0.0003" thick Modern' thin wall 39~43mm forks are much more difficult to straighten without crinkles as tube is generally 1.5mm~2.5mm. First set I dd (off a 1978 Silk in 1979) needed some special holding tools made but it worked out OK.
Due to liability issues in USA, it isn't something that gets done though and few people had even heard of it when I came here in 1999
@@1crazypj When I left high school I worked in a jobbing shop and one of the specialties was working with/on hydraulic cylinders and rams. Only the very short and stout rams would get ground and plated, then reground. The longer rams all got the nicks and dents smoothed, then polished in a big, old lathe with an electric belt sander, then sent to the hardchromer for a "flash chroming", usually .0005" a side, if I can remember.
@@paulbrodie Cool stuff.
I worked for construction equipment hire company but we also took in other work. I was laid off when department closed down, it got cheaper to replace rather than repair.
I don't miss digging machines out of snowdrifts to work on them one bit ;o)
11:10 I think I would've put a few weld tacks on it and hopefully it would shrink a little. Or tack a washer or something to it that you can tap with a rod through the hole in the bottom on the fork leg.
Good tip.
This also works to get the outer race free in head tubes, swing arms, hubs etc.
Great!, enjoyed this very much. Is there a specific video when you built the frame?
I built the frame back in 2001, so there is no video, sorry. But thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie Thanks regardless, G.
good idea on how to clean a file Alum is soft
Love you
You're not supposed to use gloves on spinning equipment, that said, I wear gloves with bench belt sanders because I've bumped my knuckle against the belt too often. It would probably be a better idea just to hold your part with pliers or something.
100% agreed on that one and I must say I also wear then with grinding wheels too for the same reasons
Paul, have you ever considered fitting some cartridge fork internals into those vintage forks?
Some of the other Vintage racers experimented with that. I think they had some success but I seem to remember it was quite a bit of work. My mods work for me!
PS: the Aermacchi racers are one of my all time favourite race bikes of that era!
đđđđđ Paul, you make it look easy...... đ
Was watching the front hub vids and I have a question. Why dont you mill down the casting parts inside(the round ctlinders) to help reduce weight as well.
I think I left them in to maintain some strength.
These look good but I have a question, did you block all the damper oil passages? What comes to my mind is that since you reduced (deleted??) the oil passages the new gasket that you put doesnÂŽt have the strength of the metal ring and it may start to leak faster.
I am thinking of reducing the size of the ones in my forks and I hadn't consider brazing, đ.
If you look on my info sheet, you will see the oil holes I filled. There are still (2) larger ones towards the bottom. Did you notice the top caps that I re-did the hexes on? They have one way valves and an air hole to allow pressure to escape. So, without excess internal air pressure, I think my seals will be fine. Thanks for watching!
Okay, you certainly got me with the aluminium billet to clean the file! How do you clean aluminium from your files? I preload wax onto my files to try to minimise the clogging, then I occasionally use copper to do what you showed, except on my bastard cut files... we just lose them...
It's the same, whether steel or aluminum are clogging the file.
With the drill press and freehand drilling I've had more scares not having a good way to resist the torque than using gloves. If the part can't spin, it can't grab you, gloves or not.
Yep, I still have dents in drill column where a brake rotor I was drilling caught and spun. There wasn't a good way to lock it down though (only stuff too time consuming)
@@1crazypj And falling for the trap of only securing the part in one place is never a confidence builder. It is amazing how far a drill can bend and stay in one piece though.
@@1crazypj I have found it time consuming to go to the hospital to get repaired after being lazy and sloppy.
@@chrisallen9154 That's why dents are in column not me. Being aware of what could happen means you allow for things. Drill rotation and positioning meant I knew if anything happened the column would prevent run away rotation. Not sure you've ever tried drilling 168 1/2" dia holes in 8mm thick work hardened stainless steel?
Hey Paul! When do you add the fork oil back in? I was curious about oil weights and volumes
I would add 225ml of 5W fork oil to each leg.
SaudaçÔes do Brasil seus vĂdeos sĂŁo muito interessantes sou super fan do seu canal no CZcams parabĂ©ns; se puder colocar legenda em portuguĂȘs seria Ăłtimo đ. Grande abraço.....
Thanks for watching and commenting đ
I bought some Ceriani Forks some years ago. Dont know much about them. Wondering if you know best type of bike to use on. Originally looking to build a Cub with them?
I don't know much about Ceriani forks. They probably came with different for tubes sizes, triple clamp offsets, and lengths. Once you know what you have, then you could decide what type of bike each might be suitable for.
I lost my pinky on a bandsaw because the blade caught my glove đ§€. You wonât see my leather hands in gloves đ§€. But again like Paul said. Itâs personal preference.
A safe perspective on safety. I doubt you've kept all your bits and pieces through luck alone.
I have noticed you use the original style bearings in the steering head. Is there a reason why you don't use taper bearings? After I converted a couple of my Kaw triples to them I use them in everything now. Easier to assemble and the steering is much more stable. Especially at Bonneville.
They're what I used on my 2001 race bike, and they worked fine. I'm building a replica of that bike, so to go tapered would not be correct. I know tapered are probably superior but it would change the look of the bike.
Why not use a chamfering bit with your rotary chuck? Easy to do once itâs chucked
Which part of the operation are you referring to?
I have seen a guy get sucked into a big drill press when his glove got tangled in swarf. He would have cut (mildly) without the glove, but been better off in my opinion.
đđ
About safety equipment, sometimes it perverts injuries, sometimes it causes the accident and injury. Sometimes it lessons injury and it can focus engery to a point like the neck resulting a quadriplegic young man who was waiting in a parking lot exit for an opening in traff . He was hit from behind by a driver using a cellphone at normal parking lot speed. Broke his neck. Had he not been wearing a full coverage helmet he would not been injured at all . It was the mass of the helmet that broke his neck.
I always wear a helmet. It is a lightweight model. The only safety equipment that always helps Is sitoestional awareness, every environment must be evaluated continuously in other to stay safe.
I started riding motorcycles in 1964 and I worked with all manner of dangerous equipment I still have all my fingers, some of them have sustained damage.
Thomas, I would agree with you. Being aware of the present situation and reacting properly can keep you safe. I started riding motorcycles in 1967. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for the videos. I'm also a safety third guy. Ive always thought that if safety was really first we couldn't use tools or be in a workshop, or even drive to work.
I've seen people caught up in drill presses I've been caught up in drill presses I do not use gloves when I'm drilling a hole or when I'm TIG welding I do however use gloves running any type of Saw my personal preference it's like wearing a wedding ring I seen a guy get his knuckle skint to the tip of his finger because of a wedding ring I do welding fabrication for a living and do not wear any any jewelry
Yes, I have one ring and always take it off to work in my shop. Thanks for watching!
On the subject of safety, I expect you to wear a fluorescent high-visibility jacket at all times, preferably self-inflating to prevent accidental drowning. Don't forget to use the proper hand signals when making turns around the workshop, you don't want anyone to bump into you by mistake.
Alex, I'm detecting a sense of humour from your end...
@@paulbrodie Correct.
Your valving changes close the holes in the tube is that compression or rebound and do you use emulators
I am not using emulators in these forks. I believe closing the holes affects the compression dampening.
@@paulbrodie thank you for the great videos you have inspired me to start a cafe racer love to make light aesthetic parts.
@@johnpublic168 Well that's very cool! And puts a big small on my face :)
Risk assessment!
Heat the old seal, itâll come out.
why there's no axial bearings on the top of springs?
The top of the spring isn't moving; do you really need an axial bearing there?
@@paulbrodie long coil springs tend to twist a lot. An axial bearing can increase small bump sensitivity.