Master it and you can build anything
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- čas přidán 31. 10. 2022
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Building anything is hard when you're starting out. But figuring out how to build something square is the foundation for all future projects. Once you figure it out - you truly can build just about anything.
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"Don't beat yourself up. Perfection simply doesn't exist in woodworking even though it might feel that way while you're watching CZcams videos." This. Thank you for this reminder. I needed someone to say it!
Best part of this video is he predicts he’s got 50-60 more years to live. I’m just trying to make it to my next check bro. Must get more tools. I live my life 1 woodpeckers box at a time.
I am pretty sure he said he be will dead in 50-60 years
My dad (in his 70s) proudly declares that everything he builds or fixes currently only has to last 15 years if he's lucky. Inspiring confidence and preparing your family for your inevitable demise 1 woodworking project at a time.
Hopefully all fingers will live to the same age.
@@Rakib2788 that is exactly what hollon woodworks said. You can indeed re read the post you are commenting on. You would be surprised with how that can influence your response 👍
Get it dude - the way things are going there’s a distinct possibility you don’t want to live more than another decade. Don’t have children. Don’t even have a dog.
I was attending a woodworking show (long ago, I'm old) and one of the woodworkers I admired said, "never point out your mistakes. most people never see them, only you!" I live by that now. Great video!
Thank you for epic words of wisdom.
my uncle is a skilled furniture maker.when he examined one of my pieces and found it to be good,i showed him something i did to cover up a mistake.you did well,a blind man doesn't see it and a layperson thinks it's supposed to be that way.
I used to point out any mistakes to people if they were complementing a job, because I felt awkward. All it achives is put a wet blanket over their excitement, make you feel bad (because it's normally something tiny not worth mentioning and you have done yourself a disservice) and make them feel awkward and maybe stupid for not noticing it! I realised it is self centred and there's nothing noble about it!
@@rhodrimorice7746 if you have built it for yourself,i think it is ok to hide a small blemish
@@duczman76 I have never made or seen a piece of work that has achieved 100% perfection. I guess if I ever do I am probably not looking thoroughly enough!
I just try and aim for perfection whilst hoping to achive work that exceeds required standards and expectations.
Don't change what you are doing. By far, it is the best mix of detailed guidance, honest opinions, and just a slight amount of humor. I know you spend a ton of time on the production of these videos - it is appreciated.
I think he may be going for more than “slight” humor. Lol.
I for1 appreciate ur videos thank u
Spot on.
Agreed!
100% I just came across this channel and I like his style of teaching and great techniques!
Doubling up on the glue was pure genius. Coat 1 to absorb then coat 2 to hold the joint - great tip.
I have learned the "playing card trick" as spacers from other videos, but haven't seen anyone cram a stack on one side and then split it in 2 or 3 as you did. Totally makes sense and I will definitely use this tip in the future. May the force be with you.
I was just waiting for him to say split the pack and pick a card, any card but don't let me see it. Magic tricks in part two and three to follow!
For whatever reason that episode of Trading Spaces sticks out in my mind. They couldn’t even try to hide how much they hated it
😂 this is the one I remember too! They were so rude! Maybe don’t go on the show if you’re that opinionated.
@@BubbaLeroy I seem to remember that the ONE thing the couple said they didn't want (pre-swap) was the color brown. The designer (Doug) made the entire room BROWN anyway, and acted kinda snotty about doing it. I'm pretty sure Doug was the asshole in that episode.
so painful to rewatch - even to this day. They filmed an episode in my town growing up, lets just say one family was not happy
I constantly have to remind myself to cut all same size parts before moving the fence. Another one along that line is dadoes. If you're making a bookcase or cabinet and using dadoes for the shelves, cut the dadoes on a large sheet of plywood or a wider glue up, whatever you're using for the sides, then cut the board to the width of the case you want. In other words, with a 12-inch-deep bookcase, you'd use a 24 and1/8th (kerf) inch board and cut it in half creating 2 sides after cutting the dadoes. Just make sure you account for your kerf and any rabbeted back you may want on the project. This way, the dadoes will always be level on both sides.
miter folding with painters,straping, packing tape is so useful in so may instances. Columns, mitered corners on base, cabinets ect ect. Its a technic that all finish carpenters , cabinet builders should take advantage of.
I have never seen wood before and yet after watching this video I believe I could make a curved laminated dresser with inlays. Thank you for the tips. Jokes aside I like your style. Keep it up
The trick to making it less expensive is recycle when can and always keep an eye out for cheap second hand materials to store(if you have the space of course) for future projects
I’m pretty sure early pioneers making furniture would have given their wooden eye for a pocket hole jig. And a drill for that matter
You think they would have been into cars instead of horses too? Technology is crazy
I refinished my grandparents bedroom set years ago. It was a nightmare as it was passed down through 6 generations, was built in Italy and I had no idea how it was built. We don’t have an exact age of it but do you know what it had. Pocket holes to hold down the top. It was the strangest thing I ever saw in my life. Flat head screws in a pocket hole. Old timey wood workers used whatever would work for their wood work. Also that was my first experience with hand cut screws. I had to replace some screw as one of the tops had a split in it. The drawers joinery gave me anxiety as it was an identity crisis. We still have it and Though my wife and I both think it’s horrendous, we can’t get rid of it.
I say all this to point out that pocket holes are nothing new and woodworking purists have a very backwards way of looking at things. You can find a ton of old furniture with pocket holes.
As a former shop teacher I have to say that THIS is the best video I have seen for following simple tricks/steps to build any project with duplicate parts. Outstanding work and smug humor too!
Thanks!
Recently found your channel and really appreciate all your advice and demos! I've been getting into woodworking the past 2-years, really enjoying it and agree my favorite part about DIY is how custom each piece is for your exact needs. Hard to put a price on that extra satisfaction. I'd love to see a video of how your shop dust collection is setup and what options might be? I'm a tornado of sawdust and in my space haha
Great tips here! I agree on the need to almost always touch things up, as nobody makes a perfect piece. One tool I did not skip on is a good quality mini/hand block plane. They are the best at trimming down mismatching corners/edges and making minor adjustments.
BTW... Bridge City had a killer black Friday half off deal on their HP-8 ($80), so I picked up one to add to my small set of planes.
Man I'm glad I'm not the only one who seems to think a glued-only mitre joint can be plenty strong if you do your homework. I've glued up some stuff that everyone says "YOU CAN'T DO THAT" but I did, and it's been working fine for a long time.
EDIT: Actually, that applies to regular butt joints as well, specially when building boxes.
GREAT tips. The double application of glue to the end grain of the ply is one of those SMH moments, and awesome that you used TB#3 for the slower set. That type of joint can easily be glue starved since it sucks into the grain.
Would not have thought of the slight angle adjustment on the 45 joints to keep the outside points tight together. I also use some angle block/ clamps to glue up the corners, but have not tried the band clamps, which surely keeps the edges tight together, since the corner clamps can also be a touch off of square.
Breakfast pancakes and Bloody Marys........might be onto something there, but might want to have the drinks AFTER running the table saw ;)
You can also use a miter lock bit. They work quite well. They make a very strong joint, and if you build your pieces correctly, your boxes should be easy to keep square while you're assembling them with glue and clamps. No square guides are necessary if you're doing it correctly. I would caution, however, it is a formidable router bit that requires a solid setup, especially for routering in the vertical position. It's not a bit to skimp on.
The card trick was cool idea. We just always used maths and rarely ever had a problem, but I still love the card trick. Also the block plane on the edge banding I have seen done before, but we just typically used a file if it was fairly close, or flush router bit if was more needed shaved off. Also we always used corrugated nails on the inside of the panel so that you could not see it from outside. A big pain those are, but it looks nice IF it does not destroy and split it and you have do it over again. Blunt the point helps but does not always work. I have no issue with pocket holes, they provide a fairly sturdy joint and will last decades just fine especially if everything is cut perfectly and square to begin with. As you said building it square sets up the foundation for all.
It can be a good idea to drill a pilot hole even for nails. Thin ones mostly don't need it, but if you feel like it may split your piece, it's the way to go.
@@darktoranaga You apparently have no clue what corrugated nails are mate. You can not drill a hole for them. Even if you could you would need to drill tons of holes. Imagine trying to drill a pilot hole for a razor blade mate. Now imagine that razor blade is not straight but is wavy. That is what you are suggesting. Smh!
It is a very thin and flat'ish nail shaped in a corrugated wavy pattern. They vary in size and length. Think we used 1/4" and 3/8" which would be around half an inch in length.
Pro tip: use a medium strength thread locker on the knob bolts. Those suckers WILL have to be re-tightened with regular intervals otherwise.
we used to cut out whole kitchen sets. we would rip everything at once. 23" for Kitchen bottoms, 20" for bathroom bottoms, 11" for kitchen uppers. I would try to cut the exact amount i needed. If i ever had to go back and cut another peice it was difficult to get the exact same size. very good advice to rip everything at once.
I always enjoy a project video. I liked your explanation regarding glue alone being strong enough on the mitered edges. Seems a popular belief is if it’s not the “strongest” possible it too weak.
Watching at 4:34 I was thinking "I'm not sure if you are supposed to use the fence when it's wider than longer..." I'm glad you mentioned that. 🤣 I like your explanation and appreciate your insight. Great video! I learned a lot. 👍🏼
Thanks Patrick
Awesome video. Lots of great tips, especially about the miter joints and drawer bottoms, and lining up the slides. Your "two coats of glue" technique is genius. My old woodshop teacher used to say that glue starved joints were a cause of many project failures. But he never had this tip. So much that I have bookmarked this video. I have a Harbor Freight bench that I need to redo with better drawers, and I will probably make the drawers using your tips.
I also have the ultimate "down and dirty" box. I was getting ready to sell a house and my agent said I needed new kitchen cabinets to put it on the market. So I ordered a set from Home Depot, typical particle board with raised panel fronts. When I took delivery, there was one cabinet that was back ordered - the cabinet under the sink. Literally the foundation cabinet of the entire kitchen and it is back ordered for over a month. I can't even begin installing the cabinets, nor contracting a plumber to install the sink until I get this.
This is going to cost me one or more mortgage payments waiting on a stupid particle board box. So I grabbed a sheet of birch veneer plywood and constructed this box using a carpentry square, a circular saw, a cordless drill, and drywall screws. Took about an hour. Finished that bad boy up with polyurethane, and had the house on the market the next week.
I appreciated reading your story.
Well done. Great detail and different approach options, and appreciate showing the challenges of woodworking.
I use a brad nailer as well. I would recommend a person take the time to learn how to use them properly. The brads are not exactly square and tend to bend while being fired in along the thinner side. As such you don't want to face the thin side of the brads toward the narrower sides of what you're fastening. This will help guard against the dreaded breakout.
Also, firing them in at an angle leaning along the long side of the material will make a stronger joint.
What a detailed vid on how to think like a woodworker, very well thought out. You have a skill few master, an art of teaching. The woodworking community needs to notice your talent, . . . .viewers share this mans teachings with others, so we all may grow. . .
Appreciate the kind words Danny. Means a lot
My hardest was a tapered miter cut on both sides of a few dozen small 5" pieces. Sneeze and you could make a mistake, lose a finger, and freq the hardwood would explode.
Finally I made a jig with a clamp.
Great vid dude. Good on ya for showing the mistakes too. I've been making drawer boxes for years and you've just showed me a few tricks I can't wait to use.
Thanks Chad
The reason I started wood working was because of the need for a specific size of bookshelf I needed and knew we wouldn't find it so at least I know I'm not alone in the logic of knowing it will be cheaper... it's usually more expensive just in wood alone but you get the exact thing you wanted.
A small tip: use a hog hair paintbrush to spread woodglue.
I make picture frames in batches and it works well, also keeping a batch of glue in a dish for easy access.
Great tip on setting the blade to 44.9 instead of 45! Also, great tip on using a block plane to clean up edge banding rather than sanding.....I've screwed up so many edges/joints with a ROS....frustrating as heck! And I'm a huge Star Wars nut too, so I really like all the stickers and T-Shirts you have!
100% with you on this
Thanks Bryan
Beyond 45.. so 45.5
@@brandongabrielbuslee910 45.1 ° actually but you are correct it was beyond.
Help me, I’m ignorant. I can see that cutting the miters tighter than 45 ensures that the outside corners meet up. But then when you try to glue them at 90 there should be a gap on the inside of the corners and the joints will be weak. Or does the glue fill the gap and still bond strongly? And isn’t the gap visible from the front? And won’t movement of the real wood along the front edges create a visible line in the paint along the joints with the plywood panels?
Thank you. I'm still a beginner and it is easy to get discouraged when you thought building what is essentially a box shouldn't be so dang hard! I love it though. Appreciate the videos
Stumbled on your vijayo. As a fellow woodpecker it's quite refreshing to learn and listen to someone that understands the usage of the word "SHIT". hats off to you. You've a great sense of humor.
I like the solid justifications to each step. The one on pocket holes was epic. 👍👍😆
One of the best / most entertaining woodworking channels out there. Thanks, Linc!
Thanks for the kind words
Exactly! Only the builder knows where the mistakes are to the untrained eye! I' ve become good at hiding flaws throughout my journey as a woodworker! Great build my friend!
The slide-in style drawer bottom is a holdover from solid wood drawer bottoms needing accommodations for expansion and contraction, a plywood drawer bottom doesn't need that and can be captured on all 4 sides without issue.
Mistakes are part of woodworking and no matter how good you are, they will happen. What gets me is makers make you think it takes 5 minutes to do, and it comes out exact. I admire makers who shoe that it took a couple if times to get right, or figure out complicated angles. Makes me feel like im not a dummy haha.
That "Trading Spaces" segment was the best use of a clip that I have seen yet.
I watched this video carefully, and really enjoyed your tips on the importance of square boxes!
Thank you for your excellent words of wisdom, and careful explanation.
Please keep up with making informative, and really enjoyable CZcams videos.
Sign me, a decent Woodworker aspiring to become a craftsman like yourself.
Thanks Robert
Another excellent video! Thank you for your straight forward instruction and recommendations!
"If you're feeling...from old, grumpy woodworkers." That's the best thing I've heard this week.
BTW, those JessEm stock guides are great safety and convenience factor for most table saw stock other than very thin.
The style reminds me of my retro 60's furniture back in the 60's, yes, I'm old! Thanks for another informative video.
Great channel. Your humor and wood working skill are great fun. Keep up the good work!
I gained an interest in metal and wood working back in the 8th and 9th grade in junior high school, because my parents signed me up for those two industrial arts classes two years straight in a row!! And my "technical training" didn't end there either!! Because in high school I took drafting, computer science, electronics, small engine repair, and two years of vocational Auto Mechanics. AND at home in the 1970s and 1980s I was always tinkering with something!! I once repaired my own home stereo system (though a cheap one I had got for Christmas) by unsoldering and installing a new diode, and I was first person in our neighborhood to own a Commodore 64 at a time when home computers were basically "unknown" to anybody!!!!
Sadly I married, then divorced two wives who never understood my "technical skills" and many employers would hire me, then slowly learn about my knowledge, then exploit my many talents as "cheap labor" without ever any "extra pay" (i.e. raises) but still demanded I jump through a lot of "their hoops" if I wanted to keep my low paying jobs!!!
And when I said that about my wives, EVERY YEAR I would ask for tools from the two of them, and every year for birthdays and Christmas, I would get handed useless screwdriver sets, or ratchet sets, EVEN when I supplied them with a list of tools I wanted and needed!! At one point I had ten Craftsman screwdriver sets, and started handing them out to friends I had so many of them!!!! I NEVER got any power tools I asked for, and the only power tools I owned for years were a Black and Decker circular saw, and a Craftsman 1/2" corded drill!! Both I had bought myself AFTER I divorced my first wife (1985)!!! And I have never owned or had access to any actual "shop" other then at the companies I worked for!! These days, I have a great woman who actually buys me tools!! And I build her a lot of items in my micro shop shed!! The space is NOT huge only 8 foot by 8 foot.....but it gives me a place to work!!
Love your videos! Always a laugh, always informative, always entertaining. Line of the day "feeling validated from old, grumpy woodworkers.". Had me rolling, thanks for the vid.
thanks!
I liked your comment about woodworking being as expensive, if not more, than buying premade but you can make projects to fit your personal space requirements. I constantly make things that people will say, amazon is cheaper...but whatever I make fit my space and works when premade won't. Plus the added bragging rights of saying, yeah I made that.
Don't move the fence and plan to cut all at once. Sage advice for another reason. Back in the day when my wife said "You can have as many tools as you want so long as BOTH cars fit in the garage at night, everything was on wheels. Economy of TIME for setup/takedown was paramount. I took all the plans from WOOD mag etc. which generally had you working a single part of the project and reformatted to ALL TABLESAW CUTS followed by ALL ROUTER WORK etc. This eliminated variations from different fence settings and made setup/takedown more efficient. Yes, pocket screws work for the right application just like the right tool for the job - good call and honest rant. Thank you again for a fine vid.
Well done! Love the details and explanations for why you take a certain approach.
Everybody's a teacher, the trick is learn from the worst what NOT to do so you can spot a skilled craftsman to befriend.
Thank you very much!
The hardest skill is messing up and saying, oh it’s cool.
And not losing your shit. Just being cool with it.
One of the first skills I learned in woodworking and construction was to understand why my normally very polite father in law was swearing like a sailor, and yet not actually getting murderous.
The only thing that keeps me from chucking tools or wood across my garage is the Holy Spirit! Praise the Lord!
Yes! It's impossible to overemphasize the importance of letting one glue application to end grain soak in a little, then applying a second coat to get the strongest bond possible, and it DOES make a huge difference in the joint's strength.
Thank you for this, I needed to hear a lot of what you had to say before I go for my vanity build!
Glad it was helpful!
I really appreciate showing some of the mistakes and how to deal with them. Thank you for being so open bc there’s many of us who may feel we can’t succeed bc we’re not perfect
Splined mitre joints are the strongest. I saw another CZcams video (not naming names) where a wood worker tested various joints in a surprisingly scientific way.
Great educational instruction, dry humor and "yes, we all screwup" video! Going to have to watch this one several times to get all the juicy goodness!
Beautiful work. Thanks for the tips!
On these woodworkers channels they are always talking about 'scrapwood' and 'leftovers'. I don't have these laying around. My scrapwood are between 10 and 20 cm (or some inches). For all the new projects I have to buy wood, even to make jigs.
It is easy if you have clients that already have payed for these 'leftovers'.
Don't worry, I liked the video.
Just a safety tip when nailing plywood, you rarely have any idea what´s in the layers, small knots can send the nail flying out the sides, so keeping your hand at safe distance might be a smart thing to do...
Thanks for the video....learned a lot about orders of proceeding!!!!!
Oh you have a great sense of humor and are easily relatable. Thank you!
Wow! Thanks for reassuring me that it's not just me who cuts the wrong pieces. I feel much better, THANKS!
We all do it!
Believe it or not. I just did it again. Ughh!!!
Watching your videos are just purely entertaining
Thank you for clicking the like button! My first table saw would arrive in a few days, can't wait to build a shelter for stray cats.
You are funny AS and also extremely informative. A great combination! Keep up the good work
Thank you kindly!
New to furniture and cabinet building, I literally just built a set of nightstands and really wish I saw this video before I built them. Would have saved a bunch of pain and anguish 😂.
The "don't crosscut boards wider than they are deep" is a good rule of thumb, but at some point, the depth will indeed be a long-enough surface to get a secure registration along the fence, resisting rotation, unless your board has just too much beyond the blade. The closer to the final length you start with, the less "drag" there is, trying to instigate a rotation.
"I'll just save money by using particle board"
- me before sanding, painting, and laminating particle board.
Lots of great tips here. Thanks for sharing!
precious sense of humour; keep them coming. And Wow, amazing end result.
Thank you very much!
I cut the groove in back as well and hot melt the bottom for no rattle
Painter's tape along the insides of the joints,,,, Never thought of that. Thanks!
Sam Greene (previously with John Malecki) is the first person I've seen regularly using this method for simple drawers/bottoms and I had to hunt through videos to catch glimpses of him setting it up. I'm so glad to see you do it in detail, and I think 1/2" sides and bottoms with this method will probably be my new go-to!
This is how I learned to do drawer bottoms 30 yrs ago in a custom furniture shop. Only difference is we used counter sunk screws on the back to fight bottom drooping over time. I guess we also used 1/4” bottoms which are more prone to drooping than 1/2”.
Great job. Thank you.
Nice video and great tips. Although I use hand tools there's often an opportunity to pick up something - 2, 3, etc split on the card trick was one. If you'd measured your diagonals on the box It'd have ticked all the boxes👍.
Been using this for years. Great stuff :)
Great video as always Jon! Love that old 44.9 degree trick for the mitres and our drawer method is the same like you said over on Instagram ☺️ Cabinets turned our great 🤙🏻
Thanks Sam. I always knew we had the same drawers!
Painting is really cool. I invested in an Earlex HVLP sprayer (600) and there is a learning curve for sure, but wow it feels good to build and paint something that people say wow about. You should think about it.
That was a good video. I was surprised when it turned out to be a mid-century modern of conventional design. It might have made a good restoration video since so many originals are around, but of course, you may not want to go there with your craft. You gave lots of good instruction, thanks.
Oh, it’s a good, super, super easy idea to make a simple teardrop base for your router with a handle 8-10 inches away from center for use on those edge trimmings to improve your control to keep it flat on the narrow edge.
7:15 where I live it's too expensive to buy a quality piece of handmade furniture. What you get at furniture stores is poor quality stuff. So building it the way I want is a win for me.
Have you tried the 1/4 x1/4 x 1/4 inch method for drawer building? It's one system that I like. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post the videos.
Something to note about putting tape in the inside faces of a glue joint; make sure you take the tape off before the glue fully dries. Scraping off glue-reinforced masking tape is miserable
Two oversized holes in drawer front allows for drawer front adjustment
LOL this guy!!!! Super informative, honest. Awesome video, as always!!!!
DUDE, Thank you for these videos. You're awesome.
Great production, editing and script for this video. The project itself was a teaching moment for sure. Thanks for all you do it is appreciated. Great tips n tricks !!
"Shit happens." got you a new subscriber. So many youtubers gloss over mistakes or edit them out. I appreciate you showing the real deal.
Wow. Turned out very beautiful. Well done.
I love your videos man. They inspire me so much as I slowly get my shop up and running to build some hobby/DIY projects. Thanks for the work you put into these videos.
Glad to hear it!
An old story from Dr Demming; a business hired a shop in Japan.
Along with the print were go no no-go allowance
+- 0.003 at three percent.
The machine shop sent the product along with a crate of exactly three percent of the count off by 0.003 +-.
They thought it odd to ask them to make 3% waste but sent it along.
Love your videos. Thank you.
A little tip for draw fronts that I use at work is double-sided sticky tape.
First, Take the little black plastic drawslide catch off the back of the draw slides for easy opening!
Close the draw boxes and pack the draw fronts for the spacing required then add the sticky tape and press the draw fronts into place.
You can stick a piece of masking tape to the front of the draw box and use that to pull it out.
Then just clamp, pre-drill and screw it up!
If you prefer to remove the tape then just unscrew the draw front, remove the tape and screw it back up.
Make sure the pilot hole is a tight fit on the screw this the draw front will go back in the same place and also that it's drilled fairly straight and true.
Learned the hard way 🤣
There are many ways to skin a cat, but hey this is just one of the methods I use.
Certainly going to try out the method you described and show in your video! Will just have to remember to leave the back off!💀💀
Fantastic video by the way!
@Lincoln St. Woodworks:
Alternative to playing cards for spacers:
Use. Post-It. Notes.
Especially if you can find some of the burly Post-It Extremes (which are super sticky, and have some weird coating that only sharpies can write on. They're even semi-waterproof).
Find your gap size, then pull off the bottom note, rotate 180°, then flip it so it's sticky side up, then stick it, inverted, to the bottom of the stack. Using a sharpie, WRITE THE GAP POSITION on the stack (either side, but I prefer the one flipped note. Why in a second) You now have a non-sticky, non-stick, brick of the specified size that's every bit as durable as cards, and won't fall apart/slide around on you (in your case, you may call them "Supreme Leader Snote").
When you're done with em, peel off the bottom two (the flipped one you wrote on and the one it's stuck to). Chuck those and slap the remainder back on the stack. They'll restick fine. One 150 note stack has lasted me 2 years (and I've only gone through em THAT quick because it's also handy to have post-it notes that'll stick to raw, unmilled wood, too).
Trust me here: you'll never go back to playing cards.
That was a fantastic woodworking video.
your videos seem to go viral, you should keep pumping them out.
Bourbon moth just did a strength test on 8 or so different joints and the mitered cut and glue was one of the strongest
yep - very strong joint when done correctly
“Old grumpy woodworkers?” You might learn a thing or two from them there sonny!!😂
this is the most appropriate user name for this comment
I like that playing card tip for shimming, which I'll use once I buy some playing cards 😁
Just getting started and have purchased a number of things I would have never thought to and also questioning some purchases, but regardless love your videos
simply GREAT vid. Well done