Mentioning the need to shut off the main water switch is SUPER important! I watched this video a couple of times and was really surprised it did not talk about this! What a mess a first time repair person would have if this was not done!
It is written in the “description” of this video. I agree that mentioning it during the video would be have important. Many people don’t read the video descriptions.
Not sure if I mentioned this in the video, but thanks for pointing it out. I'll put a cautionary note in the video description. A lot of times I just assume it would be obvious that someone would know to shut off the water before doing a repair like this, so thanks for the reminder.
I have an old house and cannot afford a plumber, heard it isn't that hard to fix a toilet, thanks for the detailed video! Doing this specific repair today. It would be helpful for folks who don't know- to go under the house and shut off the water before starting. For us beginners out there!
iScraper1, after 9+ years your posting continues to assist us DIYers! Most helpful, specifically for me, showing the removal of the packing valve to easily access the stuck fast valve itself. Frustration overcome, job completed! Thanks so much!! Best!
Great video and explanation. I like the fact that you did not rush through the video but calmly explained each step and why you were doing it, excellent.
Very good demonstration. Only thing I might add for anyone who is not familiar with the details such as turning the main water supply off may need to be told this. Most plumbers have experienced floods and would know this is an important step but someone who is a first time DIY plumber may need to be shown. Thank you for your video.
Very clear and concise. I was able to use the old compression nut and sleeve so repair was a breeze. It's nice to now have a valve that completely shuts off the water.
Great tip on the compression sleeve puller. Other videos say to cut the pipe but that may leave you with issues down the road if you have to the repair again and don’t have enough pipe left.
Thank you for your video; I had a leaking Toilet fill valve assembly and had to replace; the big problem was trying to get the bottom tightening knob off the Supply line that was a rigid steel pipe with an attatched washer flange on top. I had no idea ho to take a 3/8 compression nut assembly apart at the base of the supply line which I had to take off to get the old tightening knob off and put the new one on since the old tightening know was cracked. YOUR VIDEO HELP WAS JUST AWESOME. This was my first big plumbing job ever (well big for me at least), The compression valve came off just like your video. I was sure it was going to be frozen shut as the pipe is 20 years old, but no, it came off just like butter. I would never have had the confidence to do this job with out your video instructions. All is now back together and not leaking, so far. Knock on wood. Thank you. Rebecca &:)
Thanks...just wanted to say the it went fine and was real easy to do. I even used the old compression nut and it works like a charm...no leaks. I also insalled a new line from the shut off valve to the toilet. Thanks again for the video, it helped.
Thanks Nancy. It is frustrating to shut off a supply valve to do a repair and not have it work. I've had better luck with the 1/4 turn valves rather than the twist close type. They're a little more money (a couple dollars per valve) but well worth it.
Thanks for the video. I sort of knew how to do it (I've had to do so much plumbing in my house lately) but I wanted to be 100% sure. You explained everything simply and in a helpful manner!
Thank you so much for this video. My mom's toilet was leaking in a few places in the back and I had to replace the hose connecting to the wall but wasn't too sure if I was going to do something wrong. This video really helped give me some assurance that I was doing everything right haha. Thanks again for making this video!
I wonder if the pipe your referring to is galvanized. A lot of older homes were plumbed with galvanized pipe. Normally you don't get a lot of rust with copper pipe. You might want to try WD 40 a few times on the threads, then if there is room place a pipe wrench behind the valve to hold the supply pipe. Then try to carefully thread the old valve off. Careful, you don't want to break the supply pipe.
Nice summary, Kerry. I've never seen that compression sleeve removal tool -- pretty handy. Presumably it's not possible to just replace the bushings inside the valve.
Great video ! ! ! Easy to understand and you're well spoken. I have to do this little trick tomorrow because my shut off valve decided to start speaming water at the wall. Thanks for the information.
This was exactly what I needed to see to continue on a project of mine to replace an old toilet. I don't have, and would rather not have to buy, the T puller tool, so I'm hoping the old compression ring and nut will still work with the new shutoff valve and tubing. Thanks for posting.
You should always replace the compression ring, they are only meant to be used once. The née valve comes with a new feral ring for a reason. I did what you did and it leaked into my basement right onto my pool table
wow - thanks for the quick reply! i tried pb blaster with no luck - what ended up doing it was i just turned the whole pipe out of the wall, bench vised it and hit it with the blow torch. i find that fire is usually a pretty good solution to most of life's problems ;-p thanks for your help!
Thanks for the video. Just tackled the shut off replacement as well as adding a bidet. FYI all, I replaced the shut, the plumber who put it in 15 years ago made the pipe too short. So I couldn’t put the trim ring on (I’ll add one that opens)and after 10 minutes, a small leak formed on the bottom of the shut off. I tightened it, still no good. I took it apart and put some pipe dope on the top of the ferrel. So far so good.
Hey man thanks a lot for the video this was a really good walk through and the camera angle was perfect. My pipe was soldered on and I had enough excess to cut the old valve off. I had to use a bit of tephlon tape but it worked great.
The compression sleeve puller is handy. I got it after another supply valve failed and I couldn't get the sleeve off without damaging it. I checked with my plumbing supplier today and he said they don't make a repair kit for these supply valves. Probably because the valves are so cheap in cost. They do make a small inline 3/8" compression valve that could be placed after the 5/8" compression valve in the supply tube to the toilet, but that valve costs as much as the 5/8" compression valve.
Hi, I would like to replace my old shut off valve, but my valve seems to be in one piece and not have a 5/8 compression nut at the bottom, how do I go about taking off my valve?
Nice job, Thx for the tip about the T-puller, not sure how much they are but may be worth having one in my tool box. I will be doing this project today.
@@Iscaper thanks. We were so close but our cheap seller for this manufacturered home chinced us on pvc pipe, the nut is basically at floor level and pulling up pulls other pvc pipes. But we've known they totally screwed us and messed up our plumbing since thr vent pipe from that bathroom is bent, didn't use the right pipe, etc. We still have half a mind to pay someone to redo everything right... Anyway, Your video was great though, I appreciate it a lot. Thank you
to loosen 5/8" compression nut, turn clockwise and to tighten it turn counter-clockwise. you show counter-clockwise to tighten it but you said turn clockwise. surprised no one else commented on this
Our shutoff valve does not have a compression nut under the valve. It is just stuck on the pipe somehow. Any ideas on how to remove the valve? Turning it with the wrench is not moving the valve at all, its really stuck on there.
I hope you respond to my question. You video was helpful especially when it was hard to unscrew the old valve body off. Only problem I have is that the compression ring is unmovable and I cannot remove the nut and the ring. I have blue plastic like pipes with a copper insert at the mouth of the tube. How do I get the compression ring and nut off so I don't have to keep the old one?
@@Iscaper I ended up paying for a plumber. He didn't want to use one as he was concerned about screwing up the plastic pipe. He just put the new valve on with the old nut and compression ring with plenty of plumbers goo...
Be prepared to wait quite awile for the water to drain out of the line before you can replace that valve! There may be alot of line betw the toilet and the shut-off valve and the toilet valve is often right at ground floor level.
Since you didn't replace to shutoff valve with 1/4 turn valve, I have to say you could have done this by just replacing OEM parts stem, BrassCraft BCSR01 at home depot for 3 bucks each. I replace 21 of this kind of valve 21 of them by just replacing the stem, no mess, cheap which will last about 17 years, the time when I notice 3/21 of them won't fully shutoff. All of them shows gasket deterioration/deform/broken/cut/brittle, time to replace all.
Hey great video well explained and step by step instructions. But in my case I turned the water supply valve off and the main supply off.but still water is still coming through the valve. What am I missing?
excellent video, im doin this right now. where did you get that tool? the home depot one i bought has prongs that pop off every time i twist with a lot of pressure. Im just going to use old copper ring, but i would like that tool for future. please let us know the brand. thanks
I bought mine at a local plumbing supply, but here is a link for one that is similar on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-03943-Compression-Fittings/dp/B000L89AZC/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
Total thumbs up 👍🏻 I tried replacing this last night looks just like your valve. I tighten it kinda hard and still get a very tiny tiny leak. I used teflon tape too. Any idea what it could be? Should I tighten more? Or use for teflon tape? By the way I am using the old nut. (Didn't replace the ring neither, I am assuming the old ring is in the nut)
This type of valve uses compression fittings so you shouldn't need teflon tape. The compression ring usually stays on the pipe when you remove the old valve. I would check the copper pipe and old compression ring for flaws.
Awesome video if you want to make it easier you can use the same bolt on the copper pipe because those rarely are bad its the actual shut off that bad. Be done in less than 5 min
Kimberly Smoak Yes if you have a copper supply pipe. They also make an angle valve for this if it would work better in your application than the straight valve.
Well, I ordered that sleeve puller from Amazon. I'm getting quite a collection of plumber tools. Already have a puller for replacing kitchen faucet cartridge. 🙄
+Mel Mel Check the gasket inside the female swivel nut. If it looks okay, hand tighten the nut then tighten 1/3 to 2/3 of a turn with pliers until the gasket seats.
I really like this video. Instructions are very clear. The problem with my leaking shut off valve is that it's not set up like this one......I wish it was. The connection is straight but the valve assembly has a long bottom piece that fits onto the copper pipe. I can't seem to find a CZcams video that shows how to replace the sort of assembly I have. I fiddled with it and now instead of a moderate leak, I have a big leak. :( Time to call the plumber.
mrs.sam.heughan If you take a tubing cutter and cut the copper pipe behind the valve, is there still enough pipe protruding from the wall to install a new valve like the one in the video?
i have an older house (at least by american standards) and i think that my supply valve just connects by way of a female port directly to a threaded copper pipe. i can't quite tell because it's so rusted over. i am worried about damaging the pipe if i just turn it and i cant get a good grip on the copper sticking out of the wall. any ideas?
+don gaudry Are you sure it's PVC pipe and not PEX? PEX pipe is usually used with crimp rings. Also in the home it would be CPVC as PVC isn't rated for hot water. CPVC is usually done with glue joints. If it is PEX pipe and you have enough slack you could cut the pipe below the fitting on the valve and install a new valve and new crimp ring.
You could buy an identical new valve, remove the screw in the center of the knob, remove the knob and install on old valve. Hopefully the valve stem in the old valve isn't damaged.
Water also keeps leaking from under the toilet.i changed the seal and caulk it after I turn the water on,I know the seal is on good why you think this is happening?
Yeah... but if the thing you are replacing is the toilet shut off valve itself (which is what your video is about)... you cannot use the toilet shut off valve to shut the water off.
Alas this did not work for me. After going through the whole process of getting the supply line, top nut and valve not off, I started in on the valve body. I attempted to remove with wrenches as in the video and twisted the pipe. Had to call a plumber. Turns out, there is no lower compression nut or way to remove it. He says the majority of plumbers now use a single pipe + shutoff valve unit that they solder directly on to the copper pipe. No way to separate because they are soldered. My plumber had to cut the copper pipe in the basement and solder on a new L pipe-shutoff valve, because, again, it's usually just one piece, not a removable piece with a compression nut/sleeve. I wish I had been able to do this myself but this video didnt' mention that I would need to solder. Too bad I found out once everything was disconnected :) lol
All of the supply stops in my house have compression sleeves and nuts. I have used a new supply valve with the old compression sleeve and nut because I couldn't get them of the copper pipe.
you should have cleaned off the copper pipe with an emery cloth, otherwise the new ferrule nut will not bite into the pipe well and you'll have leaks, also, why da hell would you replace a crappy shut off valve with another multi turn one? better off going with a quarter turn
Bludika your a hater . Why dont you make a video. I would do a few things different too but bash a fellow plumber no. Just one suggestion though if you show how to do these things arnt you stealing from every other plumber out there??? Obviosly you havnt been doing this long enough. Trim bitch. And check out snap ring uscussions . Tin snips to remove old ones and reuse the the ring and nut . But that's just another way. Your way is good and Emery cloth boy has his little way
I don't understand this video: why isn't water shooting everywhere? I cannot turn off the water to the valve, and the valve won't turn off the water. When I do what he says, water just sprays everywhere! Which step magically stopped the water from coming through the pipe? Confused and wet.
You have to shut off the water supply to the valve before replacing it. On my replacement I had to shut off the main supply to the house before changing the valve.
man your IQ must be like in double digits...you're supposed to turn off the fucking water to the house or property...of course water will shoot everywhere wtf...use your brain for once
Mentioning the need to shut off the main water switch is SUPER important! I watched this video a couple of times and was really surprised it did not talk about this! What a mess a first time repair person would have if this was not done!
I was thinking the same thing, Mary. Not sure why that VERY important point was NOT mentioned by this man.
I was thinking the same thing, Mary. Not sure why that VERY important point was NOT mentioned by this man.
It is written in the “description” of this video. I agree that mentioning it during the video would be have important. Many people don’t read the video descriptions.
Agreed
I just thought it was Magic. But yea I guess we are in agreement that somewhere in front of the shut off valve water flow needs to be stopped :-)
Not sure if I mentioned this in the video, but thanks for pointing it out. I'll put a cautionary note in the video description. A lot of times I just assume it would be obvious that someone would know to shut off the water before doing a repair like this, so thanks for the reminder.
I have an old house and cannot afford a plumber, heard it isn't that hard to fix a toilet, thanks for the detailed video! Doing this specific repair today. It would be helpful for folks who don't know- to go under the house and shut off the water before starting. For us beginners out there!
iScraper1, after 9+ years your posting continues to assist us DIYers! Most helpful, specifically for me, showing the removal of the packing valve to easily access the stuck fast valve itself. Frustration overcome, job completed! Thanks so much!! Best!
Thanks!
Great video and explanation. I like the fact that you did not rush through the video but calmly explained each step and why you were doing it, excellent.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
I used your video Thursday night to change out my own vertical shut off valve. I wanted to come back this morning and say thank you. ✌❤
You're welcome!
Very good demonstration. Only thing I might add for anyone who is not familiar with the details such as turning the main water supply off may need to be told this. Most plumbers have experienced floods and would know this is an important step but someone who is a first time DIY plumber may need to be shown. Thank you for your video.
Very clear and concise. I was able to use the old compression nut and sleeve so repair was a breeze. It's nice to now have a valve that completely shuts off the water.
This video is a perfect example of the internet at its best. Thank you kind sir!
Wow, thanks!
Great tip on the compression sleeve puller. Other videos say to cut the pipe but that may leave you with issues down the road if you have to the repair again and don’t have enough pipe left.
Thanks, another option is to leave the old compression nut and sleeve on the copper pipe and thread the new valve onto the old nut.
Thanks! Nice to see a straight valve replacement. Exactly what I needed.
Thanks Steve for watching.
Great tutorial! Just enough explanation and good camera angles. Very helpful!
Thank you for your video; I had a leaking Toilet fill valve assembly and had to replace; the big problem was trying to get the bottom tightening knob off the Supply line that was a rigid steel pipe with an attatched washer flange on top. I had no idea ho to take a 3/8 compression nut assembly apart at the base of the supply line which I had to take off to get the old tightening knob off and put the new one on since the old tightening know was cracked. YOUR VIDEO HELP WAS JUST AWESOME. This was my first big plumbing job ever (well big for me at least), The compression valve came off just like your video. I was sure it was going to be frozen shut as the pipe is 20 years old, but no, it came off just like butter. I would never have had the confidence to do this job with out your video instructions. All is now back together and not leaking, so far. Knock on wood. Thank you. Rebecca &:)
Congratulations Rebecca, I'm glad the video was helpful.
Thanks...just wanted to say the it went fine and was real easy to do. I even used the old compression nut and it works like a charm...no leaks. I also insalled a new line from the shut off valve to the toilet. Thanks again for the video, it helped.
Thanks Nancy. It is frustrating to shut off a supply valve to do a repair and not have it work. I've had better luck with the 1/4 turn valves rather than the twist close type. They're a little more money (a couple dollars per valve) but well worth it.
Thanks for the video. I sort of knew how to do it (I've had to do so much plumbing in my house lately) but I wanted to be 100% sure. You explained everything simply and in a helpful manner!
+maryagraves13
Thanks, I'm glad the video was helpful.
Thank you so much for this video. My mom's toilet was leaking in a few places in the back and I had to replace the hose connecting to the wall but wasn't too sure if I was going to do something wrong. This video really helped give me some assurance that I was doing everything right haha. Thanks again for making this video!
Thanks Justin.
Awesome, I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks for the comment.
I hope my repair goes as easily today as you make it look in this video. Nicely done!
I wonder if the pipe your referring to is galvanized. A lot of older homes were plumbed with galvanized pipe. Normally you don't get a lot of rust with copper pipe. You might want to try WD 40 a few times on the threads, then if there is room place a pipe wrench behind the valve to hold the supply pipe. Then try to carefully thread the old valve off. Careful, you don't want to break the supply pipe.
Nice summary, Kerry. I've never seen that compression sleeve removal tool -- pretty handy. Presumably it's not possible to just replace the bushings inside the valve.
Thank you Lea! You made my toilet replacement less daunting.
Great video ! ! ! Easy to understand and you're well spoken. I have to do this little trick tomorrow because my shut off valve decided to start speaming water at the wall.
Thanks for the information.
This was exactly what I needed to see to continue on a project of mine to replace an old toilet. I don't have, and would rather not have to buy, the T puller tool, so I'm hoping the old compression ring and nut will still work with the new shutoff valve and tubing.
Thanks for posting.
You should always replace the compression ring, they are only meant to be used once. The née valve comes with a new feral ring for a reason. I did what you did and it leaked into my basement right onto my pool table
wow - thanks for the quick reply! i tried pb blaster with no luck - what ended up doing it was i just turned the whole pipe out of the wall, bench vised it and hit it with the blow torch.
i find that fire is usually a pretty good solution to most of life's problems ;-p
thanks for your help!
Thanks for the video. Just tackled the shut off replacement as well as adding a bidet. FYI all, I replaced the shut, the plumber who put it in 15 years ago made the pipe too short. So I couldn’t put the trim ring on (I’ll add one that opens)and after 10 minutes, a small leak formed on the bottom of the shut off. I tightened it, still no good. I took it apart and put some pipe dope on the top of the ferrel. So far so good.
Good information, thanks for posting.
thank you! just the video I needed to understand MY supply valve..
Thanks. Fixed this yesterday with your instructions. $9 and change in parts!
Great, thanks for watching.
Good luck with your repair and thanks for the feedback.
Hey man thanks a lot for the video this was a really good walk through and the camera angle was perfect. My pipe was soldered on and I had enough excess to cut the old valve off. I had to use a bit of tephlon tape but it worked great.
Just saved me like 200 bucks buddy.. thanks a lot!!
The compression sleeve puller is handy. I got it after another supply valve failed and I couldn't get the sleeve off without damaging it.
I checked with my plumbing supplier today and he said they don't make a repair kit for these supply valves. Probably because the valves are so cheap in cost. They do make a small inline 3/8" compression valve that could be placed after the 5/8" compression valve in the supply tube to the toilet, but that valve costs as much as the 5/8" compression valve.
I think your puller is from Superior Tool. Can you clarify?
Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback.
Hi, I would like to replace my old shut off valve, but my valve seems to be in one piece and not have a 5/8 compression nut at the bottom, how do I go about taking off my valve?
Nice job, Thx for the tip about the T-puller, not sure how much they are but may be worth having one in my tool box. I will be doing this project today.
Thanks Tracy, let me know how your replacement goes.
Thanks. Very practical. But suggest Quarter turn valve not the multi turn valve you use that has rubber gate stopper that will deteriorate.
Good tip, thanks for posting.
A tiny dab of pipe dope on the ferrule (compression sleeve) will make it go together a LOT smoother!
Tools/Supplies:
--compression sleave puller
--two wrenches
--3/4 inch stop valve
--screwdriver
--fill valve (if also replacing that)
Step 1, turn off the water trust me
Using the old compression nut and sleeve is the easiest way to go. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Definitely use playback at 1.5x speed so you’re not watching the video all day
Awesome, maybe I'll try this when I'm off from work, thanks for the video
Good luck!
@@Iscaper thanks. We were so close but our cheap seller for this manufacturered home chinced us on pvc pipe, the nut is basically at floor level and pulling up pulls other pvc pipes. But we've known they totally screwed us and messed up our plumbing since thr vent pipe from that bathroom is bent, didn't use the right pipe, etc. We still have half a mind to pay someone to redo everything right... Anyway, Your video was great though, I appreciate it a lot. Thank you
total thumbs up!! ty saw what needed to be done on this old line while WD-40 is doing it's job!! THANKS for posting!!!!!
Debby GMitchel
Thanks Debby for the feedback.
You should have explained there are flanges on the inside of the escutcheon rings that have to be bent in to secure them to the copper tubing.
to loosen 5/8" compression nut, turn clockwise and to tighten it turn counter-clockwise. you show counter-clockwise to tighten it but you said turn clockwise. surprised no one else commented on this
Look again, if you pivoted the bottom of the valve to look at it while loosening or tightening, clockwise and counter clockwise are as I described.
Worked perfectly!! Thx for the help👍🏾👍🏾
You're welcome!
Thanks Pete and good luck.
You must be better at playing with fire than I am. I'm glad you were able to get the pipe out.
New subscriber here 😀👍 Great relaxing voice followed by excellent step by step guidance. Going to attempt 🙏
Thanks and good luck!
Our shutoff valve does not have a compression nut under the valve. It is just stuck on the pipe somehow. Any ideas on how to remove the valve? Turning it with the wrench is not moving the valve at all, its really stuck on there.
Great Video! Very helpful for my own repair. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Richard.
I hope you respond to my question. You video was helpful especially when it was hard to unscrew the old valve body off. Only problem I have is that the compression ring is unmovable and I cannot remove the nut and the ring. I have blue plastic like pipes with a copper insert at the mouth of the tube. How do I get the compression ring and nut off so I don't have to keep the old one?
You might have to buy a puller.
@@Iscaper I ended up paying for a plumber. He didn't want to use one as he was concerned about screwing up the plastic pipe. He just put the new valve on with the old nut and compression ring with plenty of plumbers goo...
Be prepared to wait quite awile for the water to drain out of the line before you can replace that valve! There may be alot of line betw the toilet and the shut-off valve and
the toilet valve is often right at ground floor level.
Good tip, luckily for me this toilet was upstairs.
Since you didn't replace to shutoff valve with 1/4 turn valve, I have to say you could have done this by just replacing OEM parts stem, BrassCraft BCSR01 at home depot for 3 bucks each. I replace 21 of this kind of valve 21 of them by just replacing the stem, no mess, cheap which will last about 17 years, the time when I notice 3/21 of them won't fully shutoff. All of them shows gasket deterioration/deform/broken/cut/brittle, time to replace all.
Hey great video well explained and step by step instructions. But in my case I turned the water supply valve off and the main supply off.but still water is still coming through the valve. What am I missing?
The valve may be lower than some of the other piping in your house, so water is coming out the valve.
Very helpful thank you!!
You're welcome!
It looks like you are tightening the compression nut counter- clockwise, not clockwise.
Yeah, imagine you're looking at the bottom of the valve instead of the side.
How do you get a stubborn water hose off. The bottom piece seems to be the hardest
excellent video, im doin this right now. where did you get that tool? the home depot one i bought has prongs that pop off every time i twist with a lot of pressure. Im just going to use old copper ring, but i would like that tool for future. please let us know the brand. thanks
I bought mine at a local plumbing supply, but here is a link for one that is similar on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-03943-Compression-Fittings/dp/B000L89AZC/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
Great video.
Thanks!
Total thumbs up 👍🏻
I tried replacing this last night looks just like your valve. I tighten it kinda hard and still get a very tiny tiny leak. I used teflon tape too. Any idea what it could be?
Should I tighten more? Or use for teflon tape? By the way I am using the old nut. (Didn't replace the ring neither, I am assuming the old ring is in the nut)
This type of valve uses compression fittings so you shouldn't need teflon tape. The compression ring usually stays on the pipe when you remove the old valve. I would check the copper pipe and old compression ring for flaws.
This is a compression fitting does not need tape however you may have a leak from not deburring the pipe or cleaning it up first needs to be clean
do not over tighten. Snug until no leak. Many years ago, I kept tightening and crimped the compression ring. That may have occurred.
So you say you tighten the compression nut clockwise, but you are turning it counter clockwise. Is this correct? Did you say it wrong?
+April C.
Where the compression nut is on the bottom of the valve I should have said it tightens to the right. Thanks for pointing this out.
I cannot separate the metal nut on the supply line from the copper fitting inside the tank. Any ideas?
Awesome video if you want to make it easier you can use the same bolt on the copper pipe because those rarely are bad its the actual shut off that bad. Be done in less than 5 min
Good tip, thanks for posting.
Is the process the same if the connection comes out of the wall and not the floor?
Kimberly Smoak
Yes if you have a copper supply pipe. They also make an angle valve for this if it would work better in your application than the straight valve.
Thank you for this video! How can I measure my copper supply line to see if it is the same size as the one in this video or are they all the same?
Mary It is almost certain that the supply pipe is 1/2 inch. You can use a tape measure. Next size up is 3/4 inch and size down is 3/8 inch.
thanks , that was helpful
+Gary Brandt
Thanks Gary for watching.
Thank YOU soooo much for this video :)
Thanks Ewa, I appreciate the feedback.
Well, I ordered that sleeve puller from Amazon. I'm getting quite a collection of plumber tools. Already have a puller for replacing kitchen faucet cartridge. 🙄
Every do it yourselfer needs good tools 👍
Thank you!
Welcome!
The hose coming off of the toilet is dripping near the nut that holds it together, what is the fix?
+Mel Mel
Check the gasket inside the female swivel nut. If it looks okay, hand tighten the nut then tighten 1/3 to 2/3 of a turn with pliers until the gasket seats.
amazing video. thank you!
I really like this video. Instructions are very clear. The problem with my leaking shut off valve is that it's not set up like this one......I wish it was. The connection is straight but the valve assembly has a long bottom piece that fits onto the copper pipe. I can't seem to find a CZcams video that shows how to replace the sort of assembly I have. I fiddled with it and now instead of a moderate leak, I have a big leak. :( Time to call the plumber.
Haven't seen the valve you're describing. Can you remove the whole valve assembly and install a valve like the one in the video?
The valve is soldered to the copper pipe which means the copper pipe needs to be cut.
mrs.sam.heughan
If you take a tubing cutter and cut the copper pipe behind the valve, is there still enough pipe protruding from the wall to install a new valve like the one in the video?
i have an older house (at least by american standards) and i think that my supply valve just connects by way of a female port directly to a threaded copper pipe. i can't quite tell because it's so rusted over. i am worried about damaging the pipe if i just turn it and i cant get a good grip on the copper sticking out of the wall.
any ideas?
Thank you.
Welcome!
Thanks worked great.
Thanks for watching.
Why remove the tube from the toilet, only to put it back?
Maybe start with showing how to turn off water supply to house.
how do you replace the valve that is attached to PVC pipe thats crimped on
+don gaudry
Are you sure it's PVC pipe and not PEX? PEX pipe is usually used with crimp rings. Also in the home it would be CPVC as PVC isn't rated for hot water. CPVC is usually done with glue joints. If it is PEX pipe and you have enough slack you could cut the pipe below the fitting on the valve and install a new valve and new crimp ring.
the knob came off of the valve can I just replace the knob part?
You could buy an identical new valve, remove the screw in the center of the knob, remove the knob and install on old valve. Hopefully the valve stem in the old valve isn't damaged.
Is it necessary to apply teflon tap?
How do you change it when everything is plastic?
Did you find out? Mine is plastic as well.
I have a different kind. PVC-ish pipe comes out of the wall, with a chrome valve somehow attached to it. I don't know if it's a sharkbite or what
Might be CPVC pipe.
that was very helpfull
Couldnt get this fucking compression sleeve off thanks for the tool info
At 6:53 why do you flip the wrench over?
Water also keeps leaking from under the toilet.i changed the seal and caulk it after I turn the water on,I know the seal is on good why you think this is happening?
It could be the tank-to-bowl gasket.
what is the tool that you used to get the flange off
It's a compression ring puller.
thank you!!
Turn water to house off first
Do I need to shutoff main water line in my basement?
Yes.
I'd put in a 1/4 turn ball valve when you change it again
he put in 1/4 turn shut off valve in his other video, its when he replaces the shut off on the bathroom sink.
do you have to shut off the water main from outside of house first?
Leerosa Browne
Usually there is a shut off valve just for the toilet. If not then yes you'll have to shut of the house supply.
Yeah... but if the thing you are replacing is the toilet shut off valve itself (which is what your video is about)... you cannot use the toilet shut off valve to shut the water off.
Alas this did not work for me. After going through the whole process of getting the supply line, top nut and valve not off, I started in on the valve body. I attempted to remove with wrenches as in the video and twisted the pipe. Had to call a plumber. Turns out, there is no lower compression nut or way to remove it. He says the majority of plumbers now use a single pipe + shutoff valve unit that they solder directly on to the copper pipe. No way to separate because they are soldered. My plumber had to cut the copper pipe in the basement and solder on a new L pipe-shutoff valve, because, again, it's usually just one piece, not a removable piece with a compression nut/sleeve. I wish I had been able to do this myself but this video didnt' mention that I would need to solder. Too bad I found out once everything was disconnected :) lol
All of the supply stops in my house have compression sleeves and nuts. I have used a new supply valve with the old compression sleeve and nut because I couldn't get them of the copper pipe.
can someone switch toilet water to the shower water
grade is 'A' for this video. u could've earned an A+ had u used thread sealant tape.
How can I tell the size of my valve?
If it's copper pipe then it's probably 1/2". Copper pipe has a 5/8" OD (Outside Diameter), so you would want a compression valve that's 5/8 x 3/8.
@@Iscaper K, thank you.
you should have cleaned off the copper pipe with an emery cloth, otherwise the new ferrule nut will not bite into the pipe well and you'll have leaks, also, why da hell would you replace a crappy shut off valve with another multi turn one? better off going with a quarter turn
Bludika your a hater . Why dont you make a video. I would do a few things different too but bash a fellow plumber no. Just one suggestion though if you show how to do these things arnt you stealing from every other plumber out there??? Obviosly you havnt been doing this long enough. Trim bitch. And check out snap ring uscussions . Tin snips to remove old ones and reuse the the ring and nut . But that's just another way. Your way is good and Emery cloth boy has his little way
@@jissel13gmailcom m
when i try to do this water shoots out
You need to isolate where the leak is. Probably the bigger nut on the valve that tightens on the supply pipe. Is this nut tight?
0:20
I don't understand this video: why isn't water shooting everywhere? I cannot turn off the water to the valve, and the valve won't turn off the water. When I do what he says, water just sprays everywhere! Which step magically stopped the water from coming through the pipe? Confused and wet.
You have to shut off the water supply to the valve before replacing it. On my replacement I had to shut off the main supply to the house before changing the valve.
I saw he skipped that important step as well- but realized i was just an omission. Otherwise great instruction video!
man your IQ must be like in double digits...you're supposed to turn off the fucking water to the house or property...of course water will shoot everywhere wtf...use your brain for once
mahdroo turn off the water to your house first
@@bludika What I want to know is why an expert like you is on this same video as us noobs?