it's impossible to get more neck tension as the mandrel inside controls the final inside dia. what you're doing is having the collet move further down the neck which will eventually push the neck inwards causing the shoulder to donut.
Great video... As an old timer in reloading, I've use lots of the bushing type neck sizing dies. I've found that if you use a Redding Body sizing die, just sizing the body by pushing the shoulder back about .002 after a case has been fired and then using the Lee Collet die you can adjust the die to make the neck tension about .002 or .003 below bullet diameter and you can really make some concentric bullets. Run out will be minimum. This tool is now my "go to" tool for neck sizing...Just remember, neck sizing without bumping that shoulder back with a body sizing die, you're giving up case life and possible hard to extract cases after firing. Great video, Josh. Everybody who reloads ought to be using a collet type neck sizing die for real accuracy. At least in my humble opinion.
@johnday4765 thank you for commenting. I have not used the collet neck die yet but your description of why for concentricity/accuracy is exactly what I want to achieve and your experience confirms this.
You can special order Custom Undersized Collect Necksizing Mandrel for lee to your specification. I bump my cases .002 under, not touching the neck, then ran it through Lee Neck Sizing Die with a mandrel .002 under bullet diameter. This set the ideal neck tension. This also give you uniform concentricity. Works great.
2:00 very good advice there. One tip, when measuring a case, always pop out the primer first. Upon firing, the primer blows back to the bolt face and there is almost always at least a hint of firing pin crater. It will stand proud and affect your caliper reading. I like a press that cams over when using this die. It's hard to consistently judge 25 lbs of pressure. With a cam-over press, easy peasy. You might not know the exact pressure but it's the same every time. Good video!
One of these recently got me out of the shit! I had decapped and cleaned 120 pieces of brass. Full length sized them, trimmed them, primed them all good to go... then remembered I hadn't bumped the shoulders back...... aaaagggghhhh.... All very tight in the chamber. Bumped the shoulders back on them by 2 thou which drastically reduced the neck size. I got one of these neck size collet dies, ground the primer pin off and neck sized all of them. Only lost 2 thou overall length and saved 120 fully prepped cases 😅. Lesson learned.... Best money I've spent in a good while. Cheers for the video, It was a great help. 🇬🇧 👍
@btsantiago52 that did cross my mind, but then I'd have needed to buy a new full-length sizing pin anyway, (yes I know it's cheaper). The neck sizing die was just a handy extra that I can use purely to focus on the neck alone and sorted my problem.
Awesome glad you tuned in to check it out it really is a great die to use. I hope you enjoy it and hopefully it makes your groups tighter. Thanks for watching we appreciate it
It's been a while now that I have been using this Lee collet die and it has not failed me. But there are a couple of caveats that need attention. Early on I saw some rub marks where they call it meets the anvil of the die and I put some wheel bearing grease on the outside of those collet pedals. That has largely minimized the amount of wear. Also I am a big believer of running the sizing die twice for some added concentricity help. Just squeeze it turned around 90° and squeeze it again. I know a lot of people get down on these guys but I have had some of the best loads from this collet die. You got some great videos as always 👍
Great video. I was using collete dies for my AR. I was reloading brass from my gun and from my friends guns. I found that I have at least 10% of the brass was jamming and not rejecting or not going to battery. I have since changed to full length now and the problem of jamming have gone away.
Awesome glad you got it figured out. Thanks for watching and commenting. Also there is a tool called the Wilson case gauge that may help you also. Check those out on midway. Thanks again for watching
Me too for years then I tried rcbs and holy shitt the much better experience and then Hornady and a whole new level of omg lee absolutely sucks terribly...try another brand dude if ur happy with Lee ull cream ur pants with hornady. No comparison at all not my opinion it's a fact, IV been you, u don't know till ya know
See now that's beautiful! A nice, no nonsense, no BS, concise video of what you need to do. And pay heed to how much you screw that Die in if you don't have a Lee press. I have an RCBS rebel and if I were to screw that Die a full turn, I would smash the hell out of that thing. I'm not bad-mouthing Lee presses, but they have a little slop built into them. They aren't as rigid as rcbs Rock chuckers. Lee presses work well but they flex when you run them up. Again, I really love Richard Lee, he is a definite visionary entrepreneur and I think he's run his business with integrity and love for his customers!
It ain’t lees presses that shine ! In fact they are garbage! Now the lee dies are the best on the market , maybe not in finish and shininess, but the least bullet runout of all the dies in its price range
Some of the Lee presses are built a little flexible and feel like an economical type press. Now the breech lock Challenger is one of their cheapest presses and it actually feels quite solid so I don't get their business model on presses. I love the Lee dies also. you can get everything you need for a specific caliber for less than 50 bucks. That's where they really shine in my book. And man their customer service is awesome. Probably get a family member when you call in. I have broken a couple of decapping pins. I call in, they verify my address, and I get a decapping pin brand new from them in 2 days. RCBS won't do that. But as far as presses go, RCBS is among the best. My press weighs 25 lbs and absolutely no flex whatsoever.
Lee calls for 2 turns with every other press besides a Lee press on my 308 collet die that i just bought so I’ll have to dig into this myself. I use an Rcbs press as well so I’m going to start at 1 1/2turns
You need to anneal your cases. I'm also from South Africa. Problem with only neck sizing is that you need to full size eventually, say every 4th of 5th time. If you don't your cases will get so tight that you will start having issues removing them from your rifle.
Lee says run the die down 1.25 turns after contacting ram at top of stroke. If you do only 3/4 turn, how can you be sure the ram is not at the top of the stroke before the collet fully closes on the neck?
My Lee 223 set only has full length sizer, collet neck sizer and a dead length bullet seating die. I made a few cartridges and did not even use the collet neck sizer, mainly because i really don't know what it is used for, except that you can use it and not the full length sizer when only reloading brass that has only been used in you rifle. My question is, is the dead length bullet seating die putting any kind of crimp on the bullet? Do i need to buy the lee factory crimp die?
Doesn't this die also bring the neck into concentricity? I just pulled my collet neck sizer die out after many years of not being used. Thanks for the refresher vid, well done man 👍😎🇺🇸
Well one of the main reasons for this die for me is to have less bullet run out that is why I have concentricity gauge. I have a video on that also check it out sometime to. Thanks for watching
Thanks! I have a Lee set for .308 but their instructions are confusing. In one paragraph they say 1 turn. Then, in the very next paragraph they say 2 turns for 'other' press brands with a confusing explanation.
@@siah5506 and if your reloading for a semi auto gun, no neck sizing, full length only. neck sized brass will not feed reliably in a semi auto gun. also most pro shooters use full length sizing.
Post from @DLN-ix6vf 4 months ago (edited) it's impossible to get more neck tension as the mandrel inside controls the final inside dia. what you're doing is having the collet move further down the neck which will eventually push the neck inwards causing the shoulder to donut.
Hi Josh and Hunter's Adventures, thanks for the video. I resize 308 and when i resized my case every time have bump the shoulder with 0.04". I made different settings on Collet Neck Sizing Die but the result is the same. Have you had such a problem or someone else?
First mistake headspace check…he checked the case without depriming. The primer will interfere with the measurement. The recess in the cap should be enough not to concern yourself with “25 pounds of pressure” nonsense. The bullet should not go in the neck even with a custom madrel at .001 neck tension.
Is there an ideal tension? If I get mine about like yours where it barely comes in and out by hand is that adequate? What’s the cons to having less neck tension ? Thanks!
I like to deprime in a decapping die first. Reason for this is, the first measurement might not be correct because the primer could be proud! Your way, the intitial measurement could be wrong, make all subsequent measurement wrong too.
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 I think you missed my point! Your first measurement was with primer in. If the primer is protruding when you measure it, then you decap it, the measurement will be different. I find it safer to decap before any measuring is done. Mine is a decaper ONLY, it does not size in any way.
My thing is did he resize then neck size? My fire formed brass at two full turns like the instructions say my shell holder is no where near closing all the way. Instructions say you need to feel the collet, 25lbs min after primer removed and you feel the stop. I see a lot of guys doing it like the vid here. Am I missing something?
That is the downfall to this if you don’t put the tension on it more say more than others than yes you will have different neck size tension. But honestly you can feel it and the way I showed it works pretty well. If you try I think you will see what I am saying. Thanks for watching
Josh And Hunter’s Adventures yes I’ve pulled it apart and found it was not polished and were the four cuts on the collet are were extremely sharp so I gently rubbed them with 1500 grit sandpaper by putting a piece in one and one beside it and gently rubbed it as for the outside of the collet and were it matches in polished them both was this a good idea or have I made a big mistake
The collet marks are normal, they are actually partially unsized portion on the neck that landed between the fingers of the collet. Best way to make them less of an issue is rotate the brass 45 degrees and size again. That will place the unsized portions into the collet. (The instructions say to do so (90 degrees) for better accuracy but I honestly think it's mandatory to be able to size the entirety of the neck.)
I bought one for my 300 win mag, out of box I couldn't get the guts out to lug it. Had to force it apart with a doll rod and and a small hammer, and wouldn't slide back together. Tried multiple cases with different depths and pressure on the press . Couldn't chamber the brass but the bullets were snug. Not impressed!
Honestly it’s a trial and era you just half to do it by feel there is no gauge to use or anything best thing to do is check the case make sure the bullet won’t just fall in the case.
Well the primer is spent already and the reason for measuring was only to show people that we were not bumping the shoulder any at all. That we are sizing just the neck of the case.
All depends on MANY variables. Powder, bullet, primer, chamber demensions, charge weight, seating depth, brass hardness and the list goes on and on. Best to try a proven load with more/less neck tension, record results and compare. I generally set up my target loads with lower neck tension(.0015) but go for more on hunting ammunition if not crimping.
@@kassilewis5511 I never crimp myself and always work up till you find your right load that the gun shoots. Always work till you find what your gun likes don’t go off someone else’s load.
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 I agree. Consistency is the key in handloading. As many of the variables that the loader can control should remain constant for more accurate results in load development as well as verification. Start low and work up. Any component changes afterward, dial back the chosen charge, then rework the load.
Will give everyone some advice, I have been reloading for over 25 years and have done many thousands of rounds, Deprimed clean primer pocket holes resized lubed and reloaded. I have purchased and used a lot of Lee's cheap junk over the last two decades. DO NOT BUY LEE's CHEAP GARBAGE. Buy dies that will not tear up your brass like these collet dies do. spend just a little bit more money and get some good quality items and do it right and you'll be happy for 27 years of reloading.
![[27] Reconditioning and Repairing a Sticking Collet Sizing Die](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZvEg_5aCR9A/mqdefault.jpg)
it's impossible to get more neck tension as the mandrel inside controls the final inside dia.
what you're doing is having the collet move further down the neck which will eventually push the neck inwards causing the shoulder to donut.
It’s all good so far I will just keep going with it shoots lights out 👍
That’s not how it works, but ok. It’s worked over a mandrel that makes 100% perfect neck tension, from the inside, not the outside
@@l.p.5259 what are you talking about ?
Great video... As an old timer in reloading, I've use lots of the bushing type neck sizing dies. I've found that if you use a Redding Body sizing die, just sizing the body by pushing the shoulder back about .002 after a case has been fired and then using the Lee Collet die you can adjust the die to make the neck tension about .002 or .003 below bullet diameter and you can really make some concentric bullets. Run out will be minimum. This tool is now my "go to" tool for neck sizing...Just remember, neck sizing without bumping that shoulder back with a body sizing die, you're giving up case life and possible hard to extract cases after firing. Great video, Josh. Everybody who reloads ought to be using a collet type neck sizing die for real accuracy. At least in my humble opinion.
Thank you for sharing and we appreciate you stopping by and watching
@johnday4765 thank you for commenting. I have not used the collet neck die yet but your description of why for concentricity/accuracy is exactly what I want to achieve and your experience confirms this.
You can special order Custom Undersized Collect Necksizing Mandrel for lee to your specification. I bump my cases .002 under, not touching the neck, then ran it through Lee Neck Sizing Die with a mandrel .002 under bullet diameter. This set the ideal neck tension. This also give you uniform concentricity. Works great.
2:00 very good advice there. One tip, when measuring a case, always pop out the primer first. Upon firing, the primer blows back to the bolt face and there is almost always at least a hint of firing pin crater. It will stand proud and affect your caliper reading. I like a press that cams over when using this die. It's hard to consistently judge 25 lbs of pressure. With a cam-over press, easy peasy. You might not know the exact pressure but it's the same every time. Good video!
Thank you for stopping by and sharing those tips with us we appreciate it and thanks for watching
One of these recently got me out of the shit!
I had decapped and cleaned 120 pieces of brass. Full length sized them, trimmed them, primed them all good to go... then remembered I hadn't bumped the shoulders back...... aaaagggghhhh....
All very tight in the chamber. Bumped the shoulders back on them by 2 thou which drastically reduced the neck size.
I got one of these neck size collet dies, ground the primer pin off and neck sized all of them. Only lost 2 thou overall length and saved 120 fully prepped cases 😅.
Lesson learned.... Best money I've spent in a good while.
Cheers for the video, It was a great help. 🇬🇧 👍
Awesome I’m glad it helped thanks for sharing your experience we appreciate it
Remove de capping pin
@btsantiago52 that did cross my mind, but then I'd have needed to buy a new full-length sizing pin anyway, (yes I know it's cheaper). The neck sizing die was just a handy extra that I can use purely to focus on the neck alone and sorted my problem.
Thanks, this helped me solve my problem.
That is great glad it helped. Thanks for watching we appreciate it.
Just been given one of these. Didn't know quite how to use it - I do now, thanks!
Awesome glad you tuned in to check it out it really is a great die to use. I hope you enjoy it and hopefully it makes your groups tighter. Thanks for watching we appreciate it
Very well done; helped me set up my new Lee die, which should eliminate the stuck case problem I've been having.
Glad it helped and thanks for watching we appreciate it
Thanks, I was a bit lost and this video has been a great help.
Awesome glad it helped out thanks for watching
It's been a while now that I have been using this Lee collet die and it has not failed me. But there are a couple of caveats that need attention. Early on I saw some rub marks where they call it meets the anvil of the die and I put some wheel bearing grease on the outside of those collet pedals. That has largely minimized the amount of wear. Also I am a big believer of running the sizing die twice for some added concentricity help. Just squeeze it turned around 90° and squeeze it again. I know a lot of people get down on these guys but I have had some of the best loads from this collet die. You got some great videos as always 👍
Thanks for sharing this tip always good to learn new tricks glad you stopped by and watched the video
Great video. I was using collete dies for my AR. I was reloading brass from my gun and from my friends guns.
I found that I have at least 10% of the brass was jamming and not rejecting or not going to battery.
I have since changed to full length now and the problem of jamming have gone away.
Awesome glad you got it figured out. Thanks for watching and commenting. Also there is a tool called the Wilson case gauge that may help you also. Check those out on midway. Thanks again for watching
Try SB dies
Lee dies are all I ever owned, I really like them, very little run out
They make great dies thanks for stopping by and watching we appreciate it
Me too for years then I tried rcbs and holy shitt the much better experience and then Hornady and a whole new level of omg lee absolutely sucks terribly...try another brand dude if ur happy with Lee ull cream ur pants with hornady. No comparison at all not my opinion it's a fact, IV been you, u don't know till ya know
Great explanation. THX.
Your welcome thanks for watching we appreciate it.
See now that's beautiful! A nice, no nonsense, no BS, concise video of what you need to do. And pay heed to how much you screw that Die in if you don't have a Lee press. I have an RCBS rebel and if I were to screw that Die a full turn, I would smash the hell out of that thing. I'm not bad-mouthing Lee presses, but they have a little slop built into them. They aren't as rigid as rcbs Rock chuckers. Lee presses work well but they flex when you run them up. Again, I really love Richard Lee, he is a definite visionary entrepreneur and I think he's run his business with integrity and love for his customers!
Thanks for stopping by and watching we appreciate it
It ain’t lees presses that shine ! In fact they are garbage! Now the lee dies are the best on the market , maybe not in finish and shininess, but the least bullet runout of all the dies in its price range
Some of the Lee presses are built a little flexible and feel like an economical type press. Now the breech lock Challenger is one of their cheapest presses and it actually feels quite solid so I don't get their business model on presses. I love the Lee dies also. you can get everything you need for a specific caliber for less than 50 bucks. That's where they really shine in my book. And man their customer service is awesome. Probably get a family member when you call in. I have broken a couple of decapping pins. I call in, they verify my address, and I get a decapping pin brand new from them in 2 days. RCBS won't do that. But as far as presses go, RCBS is among the best. My press weighs 25 lbs and absolutely no flex whatsoever.
No problem man it's a great video. Just as I said, "no bs". Anybody could come watch what you produced, and know exactly what to do.
Lee calls for 2 turns with every other press besides a Lee press on my 308 collet die that i just bought so I’ll have to dig into this myself. I use an Rcbs press as well so I’m going to start at 1 1/2turns
thanks for the vid, use this for my .223/30-30/308 - working geat.
They are very handy that is for sure work great! Thanks for watching!!
Good hint thanks josh👍
You bet thanks for watching
Good job. Very understandable.
Thanks glad you enjoyed it thanks for watching we appreciate it
Just what I needed, thanks
You bet glad it helped thanks for watching we appreciate it
Thanks Josh I am from South Africa loading a 243 and my cases don't last with full sizing! Will give the Lee Collet Die a go!
Thanks for watching give this neck sizing die a try I think you will like it.
You need to anneal your cases. I'm also from South Africa. Problem with only neck sizing is that you need to full size eventually, say every 4th of 5th time. If you don't your cases will get so tight that you will start having issues removing them from your rifle.
I've always found .243 rifles to be very accurate. You can take Deer, Pronghorn, even Black Bear with the heavier bullets too.
I agree they are accurate for sure I really enjoy hunting with the one compact we have
Saw you on M&K! Added your channel. Take care brother!
Awesome I appreciate it!
Great info thanks as well subbed
Awesome we are glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the support and thanks for watching!!
Lee says run the die down 1.25 turns after contacting ram at top of stroke. If you do only 3/4 turn, how can you be sure the ram is not at the top of the stroke before the collet fully closes on the neck?
You need to set it up based on your press. Go a little at a time till you find the tension you want on the neck
I think Lee instructions mention 1 and 3/4 turns (not 3/4 only) after touching the shell holder...
Best thing to do is throw the instructions away after reading them and set your die up to your press.
My Lee 223 set only has full length sizer, collet neck sizer and a dead length bullet seating die. I made a few cartridges and did not even use the collet neck sizer, mainly because i really don't know what it is used for, except that you can use it and not the full length sizer when only reloading brass that has only been used in you rifle. My question is, is the dead length bullet seating die putting any kind of crimp on the bullet? Do i need to buy the lee factory crimp die?
Not sure but I don’t believe that die does any crimp. Probably just pick up a crimp die.
Nice
Thanks glad you enjoyed it we appreciate you watching
thanks for the info. im going to try them in my 223 and 260
They are great die’s hopefully you will see tighter groups. Thanks for watching
Doesn't this die also bring the neck into concentricity? I just pulled my collet neck sizer die out after many years of not being used. Thanks for the refresher vid, well done man 👍😎🇺🇸
Well one of the main reasons for this die for me is to have less bullet run out that is why I have concentricity gauge. I have a video on that also check it out sometime to. Thanks for watching
I been using them for years. I fire form my brass then just neck size the brass. That way the brass is formed to fit just my chamber..
Awesome thanks for stopping by and watching we appreciate it
How many times can u do this
@@reddawng43x91 4 or 5 times usually some guys do it a lot more time just depends how much pressure you are running
Can the decapping pin be removed, to resize the necks of primed pull down cases
Yes the decapping pin can be removed
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 sometimes the necks get out of round at the necks from the bullet pulling machines
Why does Lee say to only use the collet die with brass fired from your rifle only?
Because it is fire formed to your chamber already
Thanks! I have a Lee set for .308 but their instructions are confusing. In one paragraph they say 1 turn. Then, in the very next paragraph they say 2 turns for 'other' press brands with a confusing explanation.
Hope this helped you set up your die if you got any questions let me know thanks for watching
Another tip would be after your first press, rotate the case and size that case again.
Very good tip thanks for sharing this and we appreciate you watching
Hey I’m new to reloading and I just picked up one of these do either of the two die crimp the bullet? Or do I have to buy a separate die for that
Yes you half to buy a separate die to crimp with you will need a factory crimp die you can find these at midway or bass pro
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 thanks for the help
@@siah5506 and if your reloading for a semi auto gun, no neck sizing, full length only. neck sized brass will not feed reliably in a semi auto gun. also most pro shooters use full length sizing.
Can you operate this for JUST neck sizing without knocking out the primer?
Absolutely take the pin out
@joshandhuntersadventures5046 many thanks.
Turning the die body will not increase neck tension. The diameter of the mandrel determines the neck tension.
Doesn’t pressure have a lot to do with it and this is set up just like they recommend
Post from @DLN-ix6vf 4 months ago (edited)
it's impossible to get more neck tension as the mandrel inside controls the final inside dia.
what you're doing is having the collet move further down the neck which will eventually push the neck inwards causing the shoulder to donut.
@@btsantiago52 it currently is shooting amazing so I guess when that happens I will throw the case away
Are you lubricating the cases at all for just a neck size?
No I’m not.
Hi Josh. I got mine for 303 brit with no Instructions. What do you do in terns of lubrication when using this die?
Neck sizing die doesn’t need any lube it is different than a full size die
Hi Josh and Hunter's Adventures, thanks for the video. I resize 308 and when i resized my case every time have bump the shoulder with 0.04". I made different settings on Collet Neck Sizing Die but the result is the same. Have you had such a problem or someone else?
No you shouldn’t be moving the shoulder only sizing the neck take it apart and clean it first.
First mistake headspace check…he checked the case without depriming. The primer will interfere with the measurement. The recess in the cap should be enough not to concern yourself with “25 pounds of pressure” nonsense. The bullet should not go in the neck even with a custom madrel at .001 neck tension.
Did you not watch the video? Still got 1.624!!!! Was showing it does not bump the shoulder back.
How do you know you are putting 25 lbs of pressure on the neck? Do you have some kind of gage to check the pressure?
It’s really just a feel you half to play around you can tell once you start using it
Can I do this with once fired 7mm-08? What’s the purpose of a full length die if all you need to size is the neck for ur chamber?
Once it has been fire formed to your chamber then you can neck size
Is there an ideal tension? If I get mine about like yours where it barely comes in and out by hand is that adequate? What’s the cons to having less neck tension ? Thanks!
I like to deprime in a decapping die first.
Reason for this is, the first measurement might not be correct because the primer could be proud!
Your way, the intitial measurement could be wrong, make all subsequent measurement wrong too.
If you use a case gauge and it fall into it wouldn’t that make it good? Your only sizing the neck nothing else should be fire formed
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046
I think you missed my point!
Your first measurement was with primer in.
If the primer is protruding when you measure it,
then you decap it, the measurement will be different.
I find it safer to decap before any measuring is done.
Mine is a decaper ONLY, it does not size in any way.
@@richardt.4224 ok i see what you are saying now.
You can only use the bass that's been fire in your rifle right?
I would fire form it yes but that is me
You can only neck size ones you have shot. If you use some one else's brass you do full length sizing. After that you can neck it
Lee calls for 2 full turns after contact fyi, says right in the die instructions.
I do it by feel myself you got to play with it
My thing is did he resize then neck size? My fire formed brass at two full turns like the instructions say my shell holder is no where near closing all the way. Instructions say you need to feel the collet, 25lbs min after primer removed and you feel the stop. I see a lot of guys doing it like the vid here. Am I missing something?
@@TheGunz4u Nope all I do is setup the die the way I did and get the neck tension I am looking for
So 25lbs gave you that tension, what if you go 18lbs with some and maybe 32lbs on others, will it effect the neck size?
Very good video!
That is the downfall to this if you don’t put the tension on it more say more than others than yes you will have different neck size tension. But honestly you can feel it and the way I showed it works pretty well. If you try I think you will see what I am saying. Thanks for watching
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 Thank you, its a typical ingenious Lee product I think, for a 1/4 the price of many other brands it gets the job done.
@@llkj7944 honestly they work really well. I believe if you try it you will like. it. Thanks again for watching we appreciate it.
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 11
@@richardfitzsimmons5244 11 what???
I’ve had marks down the size of my neck like score straight lines any clues why please could it be the collet dye
Have you taken it apart and tried to clean it? I would start there and look it over really good at the little pedals.
Josh And Hunter’s Adventures yes I’ve pulled it apart and found it was not polished and were the four cuts on the collet are were extremely sharp so I gently rubbed them with 1500 grit sandpaper by putting a piece in one and one beside it and gently rubbed it as for the outside of the collet and were it matches in polished them both was this a good idea or have I made a big mistake
The collet marks are normal, they are actually partially unsized portion on the neck that landed between the fingers of the collet. Best way to make them less of an issue is rotate the brass 45 degrees and size again. That will place the unsized portions into the collet. (The instructions say to do so (90 degrees) for better accuracy but I honestly think it's mandatory to be able to size the entirety of the neck.)
I bought one for my 300 win mag, out of box I couldn't get the guts out to lug it. Had to force it apart with a doll rod and and a small hammer, and wouldn't slide back together. Tried multiple cases with different depths and pressure on the press . Couldn't chamber the brass but the bullets were snug. Not impressed!
That is really weird they normally fall out if you screw the cap off. Did you contact Lee?
Would you lube if your only neck sizing?
No you don’t need any lube for this. Thanks for watching!!
How do you know you are using 25 lbs of pressure?
Honestly it’s a trial and era you just half to do it by feel there is no gauge to use or anything best thing to do is check the case make sure the bullet won’t just fall in the case.
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 okay, thanks.
I would never measure the shoulder with the primer still in the case.
Well the primer is spent already and the reason for measuring was only to show people that we were not bumping the shoulder any at all. That we are sizing just the neck of the case.
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 -I understand- the spent primer could give a false measurement because of where it was struck-it might be raised .
Your ammo fly better loose rather than .0001 - .0003 tension?
I have no way of checking exact tension although I think there is a gauge for that
All depends on MANY variables. Powder, bullet, primer, chamber demensions, charge weight, seating depth, brass hardness and the list goes on and on. Best to try a proven load with more/less neck tension, record results and compare. I generally set up my target loads with lower neck tension(.0015) but go for more on hunting ammunition if not crimping.
@@kassilewis5511 I never crimp myself and always work up till you find your right load that the gun shoots. Always work till you find what your gun likes don’t go off someone else’s load.
@@joshandhuntersadventures5046 I agree. Consistency is the key in handloading. As many of the variables that the loader can control should remain constant for more accurate results in load development as well as verification. Start low and work up. Any component changes afterward, dial back the chosen charge, then rework the load.
@@kassilewis5511 good advice
Will give everyone some advice,
I have been reloading for over 25 years and have done many thousands of rounds,
Deprimed clean primer pocket holes resized lubed and reloaded.
I have purchased and used a lot of Lee's cheap junk over the last two decades.
DO NOT BUY LEE's CHEAP GARBAGE.
Buy dies that will not tear up your brass like these collet dies do.
spend just a little bit more money and get some good quality items and do it right and you'll be happy for 27 years of reloading.
Thanks for sharing that with us
Pro shooters who make money doing it all say full sizing only. skip neck sizing
I’m not making money shooting I’m saving money that is why I neck size