In my opinion: you have reached a point where you might consider the purchase and use of a metal lathe! Threaded rods will take you so far. Those threads will amount to an incredible amount of frictions (very inefficient) and grind everything to a pulp. Keep at it! You will get there Thx for sharing
Your belt tensioner is on the wrong side for effective forward travel. The way you have it the load is pulling against the tensioner. Move it to the bottom and it will work much better.
Man that looks like it'd be fun. I get using threaded rod, for a template, but welding nuts on brake rotor, pulleys and using threaded rod for permanent usage with not be the best idea. After you get everything lined up, take accurate measurements, then use solid bar, keyway it. Build hubs for your brakes and pulleys. Nothing will be distorted. You are going to want everything tru with no doubt anything will loosen off while riding. Your Handel bar steering, amazing. Never thought of that.
Once I got into the deeper snow there was more of it drifting around and would end up on the belts and I was hoping to not have an issue with that on the double belts, I have currently junked out that machine and am thinking about a new design. You may want to think about moving the tensioner pulley on the bottom (slack) side of your drive belt as you drive forward the belt will naturally want to tighten up on the top, that’s something I had some issues with but I really like how open things are to get work on them and the overall design is pretty cool
Yes thats the new plan I am also going to use the tension er on the outside pushing in. I have been looking at the electric clutch on old a/c car compressors as maybe a way to make a better clutch system for this design.
Great progress! I'm starring at your track wheel,axle & disc brake and I can see your next VAWT project come to life. (Or I should commission you to build one for me) Also, if you need a close up shot of a snowmobile track, give me a shout
Thanks. When I bought the disc brakes I was thinking they would make better rotor plates than the saw blades, thicker and will not flex. Also ready made mounting holes.
The idler pulley needs to be on the slack (bottom) side of the belt. The power is transmitted to the axle through the top side of that belt (the way you have it positioned). The idler pulley is going to break right off if you leave it on that side of the belt, plus you're not going to get good power transmission to the axle. By putting the idler on the slack side of the belt it only take a fraction of the effort to pull the belt taught and get it to grab the other two pulleys.
Great،thanks for sharing,im thinking of building a tractor with like 8 of 200cc engines،with a light body ofcourse,i think it would work.what do you think?
That is a good idea using the belt release like from a lawn mower. My idea was to use the rear end from a gas golf cart. Has a pulley for the belt and a differential. Plus they use cables to operate the brakes and you can buy a cable run disk brake kit for under $200. With a differential if you stop one side the other speeds up twice as fast cause then the spider gears act like a planetary gear setup. And most gas golf carts have reverse and that would be nice too. I love your whole build and I'll be watching it closely.
Should use rodstock the same size of the bearings rather then threaded rod, the threaded rod will eat right through the bearing sleeve. If you lengthen the section the spring is attached to you should get a lot more leverage increasing belt tension.
u thought of moving yr spring higher on yr tenshion bar. further from a object the more force u can apply with less effort. kinda like picking up a car with your body weight a long pipe.
Nice work mate! Are you going to cover the pulley areas to stop them from getting wet/dirty? I want to do an upscale version using an LS1 Chevvy motor which I have laying around doing nothing. I think the turning will be easier to do because of the differential, hydraulic brakes and an automatic transmission. But the custom frame and tracks will be the harder part of the build. I hope to see more progress soon!
Yes I plan on covering the back area once done. There are a couple of other tank builds on You Tube that are bigger projects using car engines and the like. I hope you post some videos when you start your build.
If you make another one, for your transmission set up look at racing go kart parts. They make 1" axles with a 1/4" key way the length of the shaft. You then could use a kart brake hub, rotor and caliper. There are also locking collars with a key way that you could weld your drive pulley to. The easiest way is to use a peerless riding lawn mower differential. (they have them at Northern Tool). Bolt a drive sprocket to the differential and put brakes on each side for the steering.
TheArctanx a differential makes a terrible setup for driving tank tracks because when you stop one side, the opposing wheel spins at double the speed. This makes turning a “tank” rather difficult.
But you definitely thought outside the box on this like the idea of you put another brakes cuz like you got there on that side identical positive traction and braking
I'm enjoying watching you design and build this thing. I am having a hard time finding all your videos after part 9. They were all titled the same and numbered up to that point, and then there was no more continuity. It was easy to search for them that way. The names of the videos changed and there were no more part numbers. If its possible to edit the titles, could you go back to the way you were titling and numbering them in the beginning, to make it easier to find your videos and to be able to watch them in order? You're doing a great job, and I look forward to your next video........ if I can find it. LOL
I am still in the process of building it, that is why there is not another video. At the end of all the videos If you click on next video it will take you to the next one in order. Thanks for watching. .
Nice Work, but the solutions with the thread rods and screws are crap. Screws are great to pull things together, but weak agains sideforces. If you use Tubes the screws will hold longer and the Brakedisk can not go free Sorry for my bad english, if you answer, write slowly, i can not read so fast english ;)
I think that you are going to have some alignment problems with you sprockets and pulleys. When you screw them on the shaft the nuts did not appear to be welded on true. Interesting concept though. As an old heavy equipment mechanic, I suspect you are going to need more durable materials than I see.
Use better steeol for the alxle. Use better perrifial equipment, (Brakes, flanges and so forth) But keep that threaded rod set up! That's a really good design tool! But it won't hold up under load!
Hello! The Idler pulley should be on the slack side of the belt drive not on the drive side. It looks like you have it on the wrong side. The belt tightens itself under load and the idler simply takes up the slack... Good work!!
I watched your video on your tracked vehicle. Cool design moves pretty fast. I see you doubled up your drive belts. It did not look like you were having problems with your belts slipping. Did you solve the problem or just try not to get them wet.
I know this is years old but.. I have an idea for a better transmission. Get a used power steering pump or a rebuilt one for each side. Spin the pump with the chain drive. Run hydraulic lines to a hydraulic motor on each wheel. With pressure bypass and control valves you can have a real incredible transmission much easier than one would think. Or use electromagnetic clutches on the pump pulleys and switch them on and off to steer. Or do both
Nice design set up with the pully, however if you are having slipping why not just got to farm store and get two chain drive gears they have large small and you can ratio it to small to large and add chain drive. I see you are working in a right direction either way...
The reason you need belts is to be able to be able to disconnect one side or the other to steer.If you have a chain drive going to each wheel you would have to have some kind of clutch. Thanks for the comment
I'm curious why you chose to use a belt drive system for your transmission. I see you're putting a load of work into the belt tension clutches & brakes (which will need trued up a bit, I think) which wouldn't have been necessary if you went the more "traditional" route of having your motor drive the tracks through a hydraulic pump, pushing fluid through hydraulic motors through a "two stick" system (2 reversible hydraulic valves) to drive/steer/stop your tracks.
I had two original ideas for driving this, the first was Hydraulics, I was a Aviation hydraulics mechanic in the Navy for 7 years. So this was my first choice. But like so many things here where I live the cost and availability was to much. The second was electric motors this would have been allot easier. One motor running each drive wheel again very expensive. I went with the pulleys solely on cost. After I complete the project I plan on doing a video on all the things I would have done differently and change if I had the cash,and dimensions of the completed project. Thanks for the comment.
Aceman307 Cool. Once you get that thing driving around, I'm interested to see how those cable-based tracks hold up. I've been working a few plans for a couple tracked vehicle ideas of my own (still in the planning stages) & was planning to cut bolt brackets for each of my track shoes out of 1"x1"x1/8" angle-iron; then weld those to the shoes, so I could bolt my tracks together. Your cable tracks, if they prove durable enough, would probably be a much easier route to take there though!
Less release on the pulley and more bite. It looks really loose and your gonna lose a lot of steering ability with that. Maybe introduce a v-notch pulley like on a CVT for a four wheeler or sled. More tension more bite, but you’ll never fully release it and risk it jumping off the drive
These belts are just going to go up in smoke. I'm having the smoking belt problem with my go-kart. ( Homemade two engine Go-kart ) I have used up like 8 belts, one belt for like every two hours of use. =(
I would recommend taking some welding classes!!! Welding is real easy with the right instruction and knowledge of selecting the right wire or rod, Them welds their are real bad!! But awesome idea u got their
Your belt tensioners need to be on the bottom of the belt not the top ! The reason for that is the top part of the belt is what is will actually have all of the pressure on it and if You put the tensioners on top then the belt will be pulling against them and trying to make them slip, on the bottom the tensioners just have to take up slack in the belt and do not have to hold the power transfer also!
You’d be better of using a zero turn lawn mower chassis and drives might be a bit more simple drive train to work with, being that the controls are perfect for a tank set up. I d love to do a build like this but the track and suspension would be the biggest challenge for me and I don’t have the time. Just my 2 cents…
Your idler looks in wrong position. Idler should add up contact on v belt, not decrease the contact (the more contact the more effective your vbelt). That is why you have slippage. You might need to add another belt to make it more effective. But I would rather use chain and simple pressure plate using spring assembly for release.
OBVIOUSLY, it's a Zombie Apocalypse Weapons Ultility Vehical (ZAWUV-1)....After he welds metal spears on all sides to stick them zombies like shish-kabob, and further adds 2 removable sawed-off shotguns near the steering wheel; with an exclusive grenade launcher attached to the rear metal frame, it'll be an Official "Can of Whoopass"... 😂😂😂💀💀 I can just see this thing featured in the lastest Zombie Apocalypse TV series this Summer! 👍🍺🍺🍺🍺🚬
See about getting yourself a lathe. The runout on those brake discs are going to cause you problems. Your design skills are clearly ahead of your equipment availability. That's a good thing. But now you need to correct it.
Your right about the tools I am using electric hand tools which limits things in this build that you would do differently if you had a lath or mill or even access to the right parts. But it does require me to be creative when confronting engineering problems. I will be able to straighten the brake disc. Thanks for the comment
Aceman307 Also a decent 4" grinder, prepping your steel with proper bevels and ground weld surfaces will greatly improve those welds not to mention make them stronger, Oh and a few clamps to hold stuff straight and in place while welding..your steel shrunk while welding those nuts on the disk and the pulley. Just some ideas not criticizing. Keep up the good work!
Hey dude, how are you? I hope good. First of all, I really want to say you that the project and videos are amazing. Thank you for share all with us. I hope you can understand my english. I am from the other part of the world hahah.. Argentina. I really intersted to do the same project. But I have the problema that hear the "Trucks" we cant achivied. So we have to make them. I want to ask you if the trucks you do are strong? Did you have any problem with them? May be they broke or failed some time...I see them and I think that are very good you know? But I dont know really, and here are very expensive to buy all the materials to do the same, so I want to be sure before buying. Why you didnt do with chain (Chain Bicycle I mean to say..)? Thanks you for all! Really! See you!
Pablo SanmiguelThanks for the nice comment. If you have a chance watch Tankman101 channel he is a master at building tracked vehicles he also has a video on building tracks. I have another friend on youtube building tracks with chains his channel is Prancstaman. I am still working on my vehicle so I cant say how long the cable will last but if you look at Ripsaw it looks to me like they are using cables. Good luck with your project.
Duuuude,,,, there go's my tracked ATV design, you are a little close, keep an eye out for Betts Industries and the products from my business in the future.
Hi all. The author has done that has raised such a device. of course there are a lot of weaknesses. But I am sure that you will fix it and all will be well. Good luck to all. P. S Hello from Russia.
Just use hydraulic system. Left hand drive, right hand drive. Trying to use handlebars to steer this I dunno.. also brakes are not needed with hydraulics just throw them in forward and reverse all the time.. reverse are the brakes with hydro gears..
Can't wait to see more progresss. Very cool build!
In my opinion: you have reached a point where you might consider the purchase and use of a metal lathe! Threaded rods will take you so far. Those threads will amount to an incredible amount of frictions (very inefficient) and grind everything to a pulp.
Keep at it! You will get there
Thx for sharing
love it. Why not final drive with the chain and keep the belts up out of the mud etc?
Looking good, almost time for a test drive.
Your belt tensioner is on the wrong side for effective forward travel. The way you have it the load is pulling against the tensioner. Move it to the bottom and it will work much better.
و
ةةةىاععاظا7
Man that looks like it'd be fun. I get using threaded rod, for a template, but welding nuts on brake rotor, pulleys and using threaded rod for permanent usage with not be the best idea. After you get everything lined up, take accurate measurements, then use solid bar, keyway it. Build hubs for your brakes and pulleys. Nothing will be distorted. You are going to want everything tru with no doubt anything will loosen off while riding. Your Handel bar steering, amazing. Never thought of that.
Once I got into the deeper snow there was more of it drifting around and would end up on the belts and I was hoping to not have an issue with that on the double belts, I have currently junked out that machine and am thinking about a new design. You may want to think about moving the tensioner pulley on the bottom (slack) side of your drive belt as you drive forward the belt will naturally want to tighten up on the top, that’s something I had some issues with but I really like how open things are to get work on them and the overall design is pretty cool
Yes thats the new plan I am also going to use the tension er on the outside pushing in. I have been looking at the electric clutch on old a/c car compressors as maybe a way to make a better clutch system for this design.
Great progress! I'm starring at your track wheel,axle & disc brake and I can see your next VAWT project come to life. (Or I should commission you to build one for me) Also, if you need a close up shot of a snowmobile track, give me a shout
Thanks. When I bought the disc brakes I was thinking they would make better rotor plates than the saw blades, thicker and will not flex. Also ready made mounting holes.
a belt drive walk behind commercial mower would be a great base for something like this, very good job man
Thanks for the tip.
The idler pulley needs to be on the slack (bottom) side of the belt. The power is transmitted to the axle through the top side of that belt (the way you have it positioned). The idler pulley is going to break right off if you leave it on that side of the belt, plus you're not going to get good power transmission to the axle. By putting the idler on the slack side of the belt it only take a fraction of the effort to pull the belt taught and get it to grab the other two pulleys.
+sam1174 Never mind. I see that you figured that out. :-)
So it should be in the same spit but under the belt? Or at the very bottom of the belt pushing up or down.
bottom pushing up.
Best welds I've seen today!
Great،thanks for sharing,im thinking of building a tractor with like 8 of 200cc engines،with a light body ofcourse,i think it would work.what do you think?
that quite a bit of wobble on that brake disk
put bottom belt guard to to keep the mud off when you go mud bugging lol
I’m a little late, but if you had an open Diff your could apply brake on one side and the power will go to the other track.
Nice work. Pura Vida from Canada! :P
COOL THINKING MAN....love it..
Wow, nice work! Really great to see this working :-)
Greetings from germany!
Thanks for watching.
This is ironic
Hey this is sweet !!!! Its been 2 months lest see you rip around on this!
Chad Robillard I am going tomorrow to test it out. I will try and post a video after.
I still do not understand yet about the pulley transmission change one side of the wheel faster and make the vehicle turn .
That is a good idea using the belt release like from a lawn mower. My idea was to use the rear end from a gas golf cart. Has a pulley for the belt and a differential. Plus they use cables to operate the brakes and you can buy a cable run disk brake kit for under $200. With a differential if you stop one side the other speeds up twice as fast cause then the spider gears act like a planetary gear setup. And most gas golf carts have reverse and that would be nice too. I love your whole build and I'll be watching it closely.
Jay Cee Thanks, I think a golf cart axle would be a good idea allot easier. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for posting. The vids are fun to watch. I subbed.
Should use rodstock the same size of the bearings rather then threaded rod, the threaded rod will eat right through the bearing sleeve. If you lengthen the section the spring is attached to you should get a lot more leverage increasing belt tension.
Move the drive spring higher up on the lever. Thjat will give you the pressure you need!
mae adónde tiene el proyecto yo soy de Heredia me gustaría verlo en persona
Have a positive rear end so that has more torque it's going to have more torque on what side cause you to have slippage
What kind of welder are you using? Tig mig or stick? There is room for improvement.
Молодец !!! Классный аппарат
u thought of moving yr spring higher on yr tenshion bar. further from a object the more force u can apply with less effort. kinda like picking up a car with your body weight a long pipe.
Very good my friend.
How hard would it be to make it all electric
Hey, where do i get the parts from and how much will they cost?
First time I see something like this.
Nice work mate! Are you going to cover the pulley areas to stop them from getting wet/dirty? I want to do an upscale version using an LS1 Chevvy motor which I have laying around doing nothing. I think the turning will be easier to do because of the differential, hydraulic brakes and an automatic transmission. But the custom frame and tracks will be the harder part of the build. I hope to see more progress soon!
Yes I plan on covering the back area once done. There are a couple of other tank builds on You Tube that are bigger projects using car engines and the like. I hope you post some videos when you start your build.
If you make another one, for your transmission set up look at racing go kart parts. They make 1" axles with a 1/4" key way the length of the shaft. You then could use a kart brake hub, rotor and caliper. There are also locking collars with a key way that you could weld your drive pulley to. The easiest way is to use a peerless riding lawn mower differential. (they have them at Northern Tool). Bolt a drive sprocket to the differential and put brakes on each side for the steering.
Jimmy Mecannic
you can use differential gear like the car rear axle
TheArctanx a differential makes a terrible setup for driving tank tracks because when you stop one side, the opposing wheel spins at double the speed. This makes turning a “tank” rather difficult.
A set of plans maybe? Or at least a set of sketches showing the steps?
What all do u need to build one of these?
I will build one myself good job 👍
Thanks for watching.
But you definitely thought outside the box on this like the idea of you put another brakes cuz like you got there on that side identical positive traction and braking
I'm enjoying watching you design and build this thing. I am having a hard time finding all your videos after part 9. They were all titled the same and numbered up to that point, and then there was no more continuity. It was easy to search for them that way. The names of the videos changed and there were no more part numbers. If its possible to edit the titles, could you go back to the way you were titling and numbering them in the beginning, to make it easier to find your videos and to be able to watch them in order? You're doing a great job, and I look forward to your next video........ if I can find it. LOL
I am still in the process of building it, that is why there is not another video. At the end of all the videos If you click on next video it will take you to the next one in order. Thanks for watching. .
Nice Work, but the solutions with the thread rods and screws are crap.
Screws are great to pull things together, but weak agains sideforces.
If you use Tubes the screws will hold longer and the Brakedisk can not go free
Sorry for my bad english, if you answer, write slowly, i can not read so fast english ;)
There is no problem with your english
You used a similar suspension system as the sherman tank
δυνατοοοοοο! μπραοοο φιλε!!!!!!!!!
i looks like that belt setup with throw the belt of under use
Everything is wobbly.
I think that you are going to have some alignment problems with you sprockets and pulleys. When you screw them on the shaft the nuts did not appear to be welded on true. Interesting concept though. As an old heavy equipment mechanic, I suspect you are going to need more durable materials than I see.
Use better steeol for the alxle. Use better perrifial equipment, (Brakes, flanges and so forth) But keep that threaded rod set up! That's a really good design tool! But it won't hold up under load!
Ini orang sangat kreatif banget 👍
Maybe chain drive do away with the belts?
He needs the belts to change transmission to each of the sides (in order to turn). If he does what you suggest it will just go forward.
is there a video after this one? i clicked the box that said next but it didnt do anything :(
+Tony Fleetwood Yes progress report 10c. Sorry about that. Try the box again I added the link.
Brake calipers are on backwards. Bleeder screw should be at the highest point in order to bleed properly.
Also your drive belt is gonna pop off from the wobbling. And just switch the calipers.
Building my own and just curious if all the pulleys have to be the same size?
No You can change them up for more torque.
Hello! The Idler pulley should be on the slack side of the belt drive not on the drive side. It looks like you have it on the wrong side. The belt tightens itself under load and the idler simply takes up the slack... Good work!!
In the next video or two I changed it around. Thanks for the comment.
I like the concept but if the belts get wet could cause some issues it did on mine.
I watched your video on your tracked vehicle. Cool design moves pretty fast. I see you doubled up your drive belts. It did not look like you were having problems with your belts slipping. Did you solve the problem or just try not to get them wet.
good job
Nice how-to!
What's the music track?
+Nicolas Iwashita Its from the CZcams library.
наш человек ))) из всякой херни собрал самоходку )) молодец !
I know this is years old but.. I have an idea for a better transmission. Get a used power steering pump or a rebuilt one for each side. Spin the pump with the chain drive. Run hydraulic lines to a hydraulic motor on each wheel. With pressure bypass and control valves you can have a real incredible transmission much easier than one would think. Or use electromagnetic clutches on the pump pulleys and switch them on and off to steer. Or do both
Nice design set up with the pully, however if you are having slipping why not just got to farm store and get two chain drive gears they have large small and you can ratio it to small to large and add chain drive. I see you are working in a right direction either way...
The reason you need belts is to be able to be able to disconnect one side or the other to steer.If you have a chain drive going to each wheel you would have to have some kind of clutch. Thanks for the comment
Aceman307, You know I didn't take that into consideration at all, I guess I didn't realize that but it makes sense.
thanks for the video you may want to lose the music though. It's very annoying
I'm curious why you chose to use a belt drive system for your transmission. I see you're putting a load of work into the belt tension clutches & brakes (which will need trued up a bit, I think) which wouldn't have been necessary if you went the more "traditional" route of having your motor drive the tracks through a hydraulic pump, pushing fluid through hydraulic motors through a "two stick" system (2 reversible hydraulic valves) to drive/steer/stop your tracks.
I had two original ideas for driving this, the first was Hydraulics, I was a Aviation hydraulics mechanic in the Navy for 7 years. So this was my first choice. But like so many things here where I live the cost and availability was to much. The second was electric motors this would have been allot easier. One motor running each drive wheel again very expensive. I went with the pulleys solely on cost. After I complete the project I plan on doing a video on all the things I would have done differently and change if I had the cash,and dimensions of the completed project. Thanks for the comment.
Aceman307 Cool. Once you get that thing driving around, I'm interested to see how those cable-based tracks hold up. I've been working a few plans for a couple tracked vehicle ideas of my own (still in the planning stages) & was planning to cut bolt brackets for each of my track shoes out of 1"x1"x1/8" angle-iron; then weld those to the shoes, so I could bolt my tracks together. Your cable tracks, if they prove durable enough, would probably be a much easier route to take there though!
Less release on the pulley and more bite. It looks really loose and your gonna lose a lot of steering ability with that. Maybe introduce a v-notch pulley like on a CVT for a four wheeler or sled. More tension more bite, but you’ll never fully release it and risk it jumping off the drive
Very good
These belts are just going to go up in smoke. I'm having the smoking belt problem with my go-kart. ( Homemade two engine Go-kart ) I have used up like 8 belts, one belt for like every two hours of use. =(
у вас что ,с нормальными ключами беда?
awesome bro
Thanks
Aceman307 Peoples like you make our future, I don't mind invest in this program!
I would recommend taking some welding classes!!! Welding is real easy with the right instruction and knowledge of selecting the right wire or rod,
Them welds their are real bad!!
But awesome idea u got their
Thats the trouble with high def video it shows all the details. Thanks for watching.
Your belt tensioners need to be on the bottom of the belt not the top ! The reason for that is the top part of the belt is what is will actually have all of the pressure on it and if You put the tensioners on top then the belt will be pulling against them and trying to make them slip, on the bottom the tensioners just have to take up slack in the belt and do not have to hold the power transfer also!
George Hunt Please check out my latest video Drive train update 10D
Aceman307
Yes I found it after I posted this. I should have made sure I had watched all of Your videos on this before posting!
George Hunt Thanks for your post I appreciate any insight or alternative ideas people watching my videos have.
Seems like it'll snap pretty easily
You’d be better of using a zero turn lawn mower chassis and drives might be a bit more simple drive train to work with, being that the controls are perfect for a tank set up. I d love to do a build like this but the track and suspension would be the biggest challenge for me and I don’t have the time. Just my 2 cents…
They make four wheelers, why not just make tracks to put on one ?
I wouldn't mind riding it.
you should be working at DARPA
Your idler looks in wrong position. Idler should add up contact on v belt, not decrease the contact (the more contact the more effective your vbelt). That is why you have slippage. You might need to add another belt to make it more effective. But I would rather use chain and simple pressure plate using spring assembly for release.
Music ?
Это сколько надо было зннать, шоб так прилепить тормозные диски.
Окуительная , конструкция, respekt,super
Sangat mantap skali
You should have used hydraulics much easier to make this also a lot more torque available
Me gusta la creatividad 👌💪
И проще было взять задний редуктор со свободным дифером - на порядок надёжней было бы.
Motor berapa cc ?
What is the intended use of the vehicle?
I am going to buy it and cruise around picking up girls. I'm gonna get lucky! I just know it!!!!
OBVIOUSLY, it's a Zombie Apocalypse Weapons Ultility Vehical (ZAWUV-1)....After he welds metal spears on all sides to stick them zombies like shish-kabob, and further adds 2 removable sawed-off shotguns near the steering wheel; with an exclusive grenade launcher attached to the rear metal frame, it'll be an Official "Can of Whoopass"... 😂😂😂💀💀
I can just see this thing featured in the lastest Zombie Apocalypse TV series this Summer! 👍🍺🍺🍺🍺🚬
I like it
What kind of engine is in this machine?
+Дима Громов 150 cc scooter motor.
Parabens , Obrigado pelo video...
See about getting yourself a lathe. The runout on those brake discs are going to cause you problems. Your design skills are clearly ahead of your equipment availability. That's a good thing. But now you need to correct it.
Your right about the tools I am using electric hand tools which limits things in this build that you would do differently if you had a lath or mill or even access to the right parts. But it does require me to be creative when confronting engineering problems. I will be able to straighten the brake disc. Thanks for the comment
Aceman307 Also a decent 4" grinder, prepping your steel with proper bevels and ground weld surfaces will greatly improve those welds not to mention make them stronger, Oh and a few clamps to hold stuff straight and in place while welding..your steel shrunk while welding those nuts on the disk and the pulley. Just some ideas not criticizing. Keep up the good work!
CUT THE MUSIC BACK
Steer with levers put one engine on each side
Or use a zero turn lawnmower like I currently am.
Hey dude, how are you? I hope good. First of all, I really want to say you that the project and videos are amazing. Thank you for share all with us. I hope you can understand my english. I am from the other part of the world hahah.. Argentina. I really intersted to do the same project. But I have the problema that hear the "Trucks" we cant achivied. So we have to make them. I want to ask you if the trucks you do are strong? Did you have any problem with them? May be they broke or failed some time...I see them and I think that are very good you know? But I dont know really, and here are very expensive to buy all the materials to do the same, so I want to be sure before buying. Why you didnt do with chain (Chain Bicycle I mean to say..)? Thanks you for all! Really! See you!
Pablo SanmiguelThanks for the nice comment. If you have a chance watch Tankman101 channel he is a master at building tracked vehicles he also has a video on building tracks. I have another friend on youtube building tracks with chains his channel is Prancstaman. I am still working on my vehicle so I cant say how long the cable will last but if you look at Ripsaw it looks to me like they are using cables. Good luck with your project.
Thanks for your comment and continue with that project ;)
nice
Ok now I can build a half-track
Full chain drive that screams malfunction and I'm stuck come get me lol
Celt
Duuuude,,,, there go's my tracked ATV design, you are a little close, keep an eye out for Betts Industries and the products from my business in the future.
Let's have a link?
music?
As peças ficaram um pouco tortas as flanges ...
Hi all. The author has done that has raised such a device. of course there are a lot of weaknesses. But I am sure that you will fix it and all will be well. Good luck to all. P. S Hello from Russia.
Just use hydraulic system. Left hand drive, right hand drive. Trying to use handlebars to steer this I dunno.. also brakes are not needed with hydraulics just throw them in forward and reverse all the time.. reverse are the brakes with hydro gears..
عالی وآموزنده
Такие ответственные узлы лучше, всё же, делать на шлицевой посадке)))
Там всего то моторчик на 49сс))
great mind
Thanks for watching