How to remove runs in automotive clearcoat quickly, easily and safely.
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- čas přidán 1. 11. 2019
- Musclecarworkshop.com
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Process to remove clearcoat runs:
1. After clearing your vehicle, if you notice a run, spray 2-3 more coats of clear over it waiting approximately 5 minutes between coats to increase millage.
2. Fully cure the run with a heat lamp or out in the sun for a day.
3. Wipe off area to be sanded with wax and grease remover or soapy water and wipe dry.
4. Cut a plastic body filler spreader to about 2.5 inch or less as needed for your situation and apply p320 grit dry sticky paper to it.
5. Sand across the run or sag with firm pressure varying direction until the run is removed. (For best results after this step apply heat lamp or Sun again to make sure the area where the run was, is filly cured through)
6. Use p500 dry paper on a straight acrylic block, aluminum or a similar hard straight block over the run area to further flatten the run and remove the 320 scratches.
7. Proceed with 800 or 1000 grit wet/dry paper. I prefer this step wet with a firm rubber block such as a Dura block.
8. Finish the wet sanding process with 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 (3M trizact or similar product. No need to use a block with these grits since the panel will have been cut and blocked straight in step 7. I use 6" 3000 trizact with a da sander. 5000 trizact can also be used to help achieve the ultimate show finish.
9. Your clear is now ready for polishing. I use 3D products for best results (3Dproducts.com) Their wool pad with AAT501 followed by AAT502 on their black foam pad. Use AAT505 with a soft foam pad and 6" DA polisher. Last step is Adams polishes Americana wax by hand application. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Hey I learned trick to take out the runs while still wet. I let the clear get just a little tacky, and then I take a new strip of masking tape and lightly press it down on the run and pull it up removing the run and leaving behind a flat patch of clear. Then I just continue with my regular flash times and coats. Sometimes I'm able to get a level surface but usually it's a little higher but with no run. Easy to sand with the surrounding clear.
Dude thank you so much! I stumbled on your comment just in time before the coat got too dry and was able to save myself a ton of work. Absolute legend.
Genius. Will keep in mind!!
Well ain't this a promising combination of comments 😂 Thanks for the tip man, looks like it's good to go!
I wish I would have caught my run soon enough to use your advice.
Thank you! I was just putting on a clear coat ... 3rd spray/coat (light one every 10 minutes) when I noticed a run. I did a quick search between coats and found tour video. So I plan to put on 4 or 5 coats now and then let it fully cure before applying your technique. Again...thank you for the help and taking the time to make this video!!!
Thank you for posting this vid. I've been using the razor blade and swear word combination method for years! I never would've thought about going as aggressive as you did with the 320 dry. Gotta make sure you have a butt ton of clear on the panel though. I can absolutely see blowing through the clear down to the basecoat in no time flat! Great educational vid!
This guy's the Bob Ross of Auto finishing.
Agreed, was thinking the same thing. Much calmer than me in the shop working on a run or sag.
@@carolinadoublej 👍
Nice man thanks for your experience to give to others
Thanks this helped a lot I gotta sand some bad runs I got in my 2k clear after work today 🤦🏾♂️
Thank you for the tip , I'll use this method in future.
Now that's a run. Thanks for the information 👍
Awesome video you saved me hours of work
Thanks, some good pointers there.
You can also spray a "fog"/ "guide" coat with a rattle can in a different color so you can see high and low spots.. I worked in a custom fab shop and we did that for a show finish
Great info....💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Looks great!
Wanted to se it buffed and ready 🙂
Omg best way I have found !! Thank you so much for ur video!!
Thanks for the good feedback. I'm glad it helped!
Very helpful Thank You 🙏
Seeing the journey to the finished job would have been much better
I have already done this method not with a Bondo spreader but usually I just take a wet or dry block for wet sanding and I usually just put about four to six hundred great sometimes 800 and usually I'll finish it off with about 1000 and 1500 Grit but it's still a risky situation I've tried paint sticks I've tried a lot of different things I got a vehicle now that I got to get the runs out and I usually don't get runs but I wind up trying a new clear it look like it was sticking everything was good there my last coat I start seeing runs in the quarter panel and both front fenders I hate runs runs is a redo in my opinion but if you can Master this technique and get it usually I will take a marker silver or black and I will Mark the run to know where I'm at and then a lot of tables I'll mark around the perimeter of the run while I'm sending so when I start to get down when I start to not see that black or silver marker no more that surrounds the run I know that I'm right there flat with the rest of the adjacent panel
Bob Ross vibes. Lol. Thanks bud this helped a lot. Keep it up
Glad this helped! Thanks for the good feedback!
WOW much better than a razor blade ! THX
Thanks for the positive feedback! It really does work.
Bummer, wanted to see the rest of the steps on the nova.
Thank you for sharing will have to try this.
Which three step buffing compounds will you use afterwards to match the shine?
I’ve been getting swirl marks that I can’t get get rid of 😀
Thanks in advance
3D ACA 500 Xtra cut with wool pad, 3D AAt 501 with coarse foam pad, then 3D AAT502 with fine foam pad.
OR 3M 36060 with wool pad, same with foam pad, then 3M 06094 with medium or fine foam pad. 3M 06068 ultrafine on fine foam pad.
All compounds and pads are on Ebay if your local supply doesn't have it. 3D is available in smaller quantities on Ebay so it costs less and it works great for me.
Great video.
How would a long sanding block do? My issue is on a hood that’s hanging vertically, and the runs are at the top (front-end) of the hood.
Thanks for liking the video. If the run is more like a waterfall instead of icicles, take a 6 to 12 inch dura block or something similar with 320 dry stickit paper to sand it out. Just be careful that not too much surrounding clear is taken off so you don't sand through to the basecoat. If it is mostly icicles, sand out each individual run with a small bondo spreader as in the video. Once each individual run is sanded down then take a longer block with 320 across the whole length followed up with 500 on a hard acrylic or polycarbonate block. It needs to be thoroughly set up to work best. When runs happen there are three options; Do nothing, sand it out and respray, or try to sand it out and polish it. Sanding and polishing works most of the time if you are patient and saves a lot of $$$ compared to a respray.
Small square razor blade right on the run itself, scraping it not trying to cut it. Very controlled right on the run itself. Till it gets to the same height as the rest. Finished with fine grit. Buff
If ya lazy enough you can lick the run with your tongue back up while the clear coat is still wet. Not the best taste but whatchu gonna do. Awesome vid!
Surprised you didn't wet sand it with that size grit.
CONFIRMED: This method will save time perfecting your paint jobs
Yes it does. Thanks for your feedback
I’m working on some runs on a single stage can I do this same method? Thanks for your video.
It works the same on single stage. However, there is a chance that the pigment could pool and not be uniform throughout the run especially with metallics settling; solid colors will have better results. In that case you would still see the run even though it is sanded out. It is certainly worth trying to sand and polish it out before respraying.
So after wetsanding up to 2500 and then polishing, the door will be perfect or will there be a new clearcoat spray needed?
If you successfully sanded and polished without going through the clear, there is no need to respray clear. Sometimes an outline of the run or ghosting around where the run was can show up later. In that case make sure the clear is fully cured and then lightly sand with 1500 or 2000 on a hard acrylic block then repolish.
It’s been 7 days since I applied the clear coat and have some runs. Can I sand the runs out now? It’s been 60 degrees or warmer every day inside my garage .
Give it a try. If it is gummy or doesn't sand good sit it outside in the sun if you can. Hope it goes good for you.
I just run drip on the first top coat,should I sand it with 320?
No after 3rd coat has completely dried if you sand on 1st coat your compromising the finish
so why did you not finish the process??
Any painter that says he never got a run is either lying or he hasn’t done much painting
Any reason why you didn't wet sand?
If you dry sand it cuts faster ,& wet sanding would take more time to smooth out
I use a paint stick with glazing putty
That is scary!
Lay Piece of masking tape gently over it lightly run gone .
320 is too rough for runs. I would have started with a 1000 grit then 1500 and end with a 2000 grit. Next I would have wiped all the sand off. Prime. Let dry then repaint and I'm done
I did the same thing, i wet sand mine with 500 and then 1000 and 2000
Next time dnt go lower then 1k and work up 2k,3k never go lower then 1k ,I bet it took you forever to polish back
Just use body filler, then sand😒🙄
This guy is trying to ruin everyone car.
Thats where experience kicks in, i would not jump in with that course of a sand paper. 🫡