I've used blades and shavettes for a couple of years now, starting to feel exceedingly comfortable with that. Just did my first ever straight razor shave today, it was pretty.. awful. Tuggy, uncomfortable, just felt off. Think I was the optimist who figured you don't need to strop the very first time, now I imagine that's exactly what I did wrong. This and the original stropping video are some of the very best out there, you're not just explaining it but showing us actual practical examples - here's what it is, here's exactly how you use it. Thank you Matt.
Unless you have a razor specific paddle with some kind of suspension, you are going to end up altering the geometry of your razor a bit. The slack of the strop helps keep the original geometry, which is why razor specific paddle strops from razor manufacturers always have some kind of suspension system built in (Dovo and Boker use a "spanner" system to suspend a leather belt whilst Thiers Issard cuts slits into their wooden paddles).
@@JimIBobIJones thank you for this info. No one has mentioned this info yet. A few cover strop tension but I was truly wondering why can’t you use a flat one on a table & why everyone uses a hanging strop for straight razors.
The razors are ground on wheels in the factory rather than on flat stones, which leads to a more "hollow" geometry on the cutting edge. This adds to the amount of desirable "flex" in the edge so it contours with your skin a bit better. Honestly, I don't think its the end of the world if you use a solid paddle strop. If your razor has been retouched or honed on flat stones afterwards, then I wouldn't worry about it because the geometry is altered anyway. An edge well honed on stones will be almost as good as a factory edge - because the hollow ground of the razor as a whole (and not just the cutting edge) will be a bigger contributor than cutting edge geometry. But at the end of the day, if you want the factory geometry you want to stay away from honing/stropping on anything too stiff as far as possible.
I always warm my strop up in the morning just using my hand. I find it just takes a nice good few strokes, 25 maybe then give it a good buffing off after that.
I agree with the stropping it does not remove any metal, but metal edge becomes similar like a bur but gets lined up straight , When stropping the blade` the edge also stretches out wards away from the spine, so the depth of blade grows wider but not enough for the naked eyes to see, This also lines up the blades edge which becomes straight at the same time` but unlike a bur made on a stone that gets so fragile and gets removed the blades edge is so fine it just gets stretched and lined up because of the stropping away from the spine not towards, not like honing on the stone, I also notice if I strop and test the razor it is sharper than if I stropped and used it later I think due to edge shrinking back not making it as fine, as the temp lowers in the edge of the blade, The metal gets warmed up through friction when stropping which causes the fine edge to stretch and become sharper, I also notice rubbing the palm on the strop enough to warm the strop my blade reacts better on the strop, But when a green paste is used witch I tried the once never again as my honing and stropping is great for a smooth shave but wanted to see what it was all about, but I suppose paste has its uses ` forgot the name of the green paste but you can clearly see the grey metal over time left on the strop webbing , some people say no that`s just oxidization, I disagree when using a compound your using it to get the edge finer this can only be achieved by removal or stretching the metal through friction , if people disagree then apply the paste on glass and rub enough your see it misting this is scratching at a micro level, Also you have to way up the odds, if the razor becomes to fine you then will get razor burn, its important to notice the difference between what`s sharp and to sharp, I forgot to say` liking the work you do on restoration to the Gillett razors second to non, and the knowledge you have shown the viewers
Getting a straight razor has upped my knife sharpening and stropping game substantially. Mostly in the form of slowing down and making each action meaningful. Going too fast or aggressive on a Ka-Bar knife, or a big piece of D2 tool steel won’t hurt anything [it doesn’t help it either, but it won’t hurt it]. That same sloppiness on a straight razor will def’y bite you. Thanks for the videos. I love seeing someone geek out on something they’re passionate about. It’s immediately apparent when someone is just hocking something, as opposed to you guys - who happen to sell things, but come across as first looking to inform. Cheers!
I just got into it after learning how to sharpen knives and trying to sharpen a Gold Dollar 80 I think I made all the mistakes possible and now have more questions even after watching a lot of how to's ! Exciting and stressful at the same time as you don't want to mess something up badly!
@@c.t.1697 gotta give yourself room to faceplant. When you make a $1,000 mistake by being careless or stupid, it sticks with you. For a time, you become absolutely immune to that particular mistake. You become the absolute last person on Earth who’d ever make that mistake. Chain enough of those together and viola! You’re an expert.
Just cause you mentioned letting your kids play with the compound. Most of the compounds used, especially the green is a carcinogen that you need to wash off & avoid any contact that could result in ingesting any of the compounds. I don't know if there's a risk of skin cancer by getting it on your skin, but I avoid it just in case. I use a microfiber cloth.
Great video Matt. I got your horsehide strop when we met at the big shave east and you were absolutely right, it’s a wonderful strop and has served me well ever since. Keep up the good work.
Yes to straight razor shaving and everything that goes with it! Nice stropping instruction. I need the be of your horsehide stropps. The last one I ordered from Amazon came folded tightly in half which left wrinkles right in the middle. :( I would add, be sure to clean the blade after you stropp and before you shave. There will be little pieces of leather on the face of the blade which you want to remove. Look at the edge under magnification and you’ll see.
Congratulations! You are the winner of the weekly T-shirt giveaway contest! Please Contact me at Help@razorempiorium.com with your shipping address and your T-shirt Size. I will ship it out right away! Thank you for your support! - Razor Emporium Tean
Matt👍👍 Nicely done bro. Tried straights years ago when I was still working, the problem I had was time to maintain and actually shave. Bummer! I sold or gave away all related items. Wish I had it all back now as I have plenty of time. BUT, now the cost are prohibitive. Conundrum... Great video and info. Thanks. Stay safe and.... Enjoy!
I have been having a bunch of different 'stropping' videos popping up on my feed. For me, it is always about the wood shop. Haven't shaved in eons.... So, to me, in the woodshop, stropping is to remove the burr from sharpening on stones. With a kitchen knife, the steel, either steel or ceramic, is what puts the teeth back in line, and stropping is more of a 'polishing' thing, but I can see where it can extend the life of the cutting edge. I am curious if the 'canvas' you use is available for sale in bulk. I want to glue it on some plywood or even granite. I have seen stropping pastes that go up to 60,000 grit. The need to experiment goes on....
Hi Matt- Great stropping tutorial; thank you! This video has certainly demystified and clarified many aspects of straight razor care and maintenance. Well done! I hope you have a great weekend ahead. Take good care and be safe and be well. Best regards, as always, Matt!
hi bud, a great vidio it took me 2 years to learn to properly use a cut throat and all that goes with it, it was a blood bath at first ,kind regards mike in the uk.
I use the green chromium oxide bar on the inside of my strop. I don’t use a straight razor that often so I rarely have to even touch up my razors. Very much so prefer my vintage and modern safety razors.
Another great video! Straightforward and informative as always. I wish I had known about the green before I bought some, but I only applied it to half of one side of the linen, so I'll be fine. I learned the hard way that this was a mistake. I'm curious about the diamond paste versus the oxide pastes. I don't much about it and would like more information before I commit. Thanks!!
Life brings you information in ways that are sometimes impressive. I've been having some questions for a couple weeks and did not know where to get the answers. I started with a shavette a little more then a year ago. I'm no expert but I don't cut myself anymore. I had the opportunity to borrow a very old straight razor (unknown brand) from my uncles father (98 years old). I had the blade sharpened. I find the shaving with the old blade is rougher then with the shavette. Is this normal? I was thinking that the blade was not sharpened with a stone of a high enough grit. Any ideas? Thank you for your answer and time. JL
I believe your assumptions are correct. The straight razor was probably not taken to a high enough stone or grit. Although a straight razor will never be as sharp as a shavette I don't think.
There are different reasons for stropping ranging from routine maintenance for daily shaving use to edge restoration and the in between occasional hone and strop touch up. For restoration and touch-up I use Flexcut Gold on a traditional two sided leather/canvas handle strop with great success. This is NOT a criticism of your method, not at all. The traditional and advanced approach here is time honored and solid
Thanks for this video! Do I understand correctly that stropping paste is only applied on canvas and not on leather? And that you always end the stropping on the leather surface as the final step?
Love that herolds solingen! I usually only use green for pocket knives that come off a 1200 because they are all over the place in grit and unmeasured, but I found one rated at .5/60k, said to be specifically for fine strops.. and its exactly the same size as the little herolds bars. YEP, it really is a .5! most greens I wouldnt think of since my last stone is 8k, but the results prove the mfgr claim.
I just bought the green paste brick. Chromium oxide. I’m brand new to this world. I just a new Dovo straight razor and it couldn’t cut hot butter let alone my 3 day beard. I just saw this video and you recommend using the red and black. I’m getting confused. Y all the info. Any recommendations? Thanks Bob
Hello, The video is awesome and easy to follow for a newbie. I have 2 questions about the canvas side usage with a straight razor. 1- After stropping with sharpening pastes, is it a good idea to clean the edge with a cloth and proceed to the clean canvas or ignore the cloth and go straight to the clean canvas? 2- Once done shaving and drying the straight razor, is it recommended to strop on the canvas side to further remove any liquid, soap residue? Thank you very much.
Hello, Matt. Is there a way to clean up my horse hide strop that has a few small nicks and scratches from being a rookie? I knew or I should say I was told that would happen by the maker. That's why he sold me the second best strop instead of the best one he makes. I'm pretty sure there is no way to clear those. There are only a couple very shallow gouges near the edges and two scratches that are very very barely there. But I can feel the lip of the scratch just barely. They smooth down when I rub my hand across to warm it up. But they are still there. Can 100% pure natural unprocessed, but filtered, bees wax be used for conditioning the leather strop? It would actually fill in the scratches and tiny nicks keeping the surface smooth. Thanks to anyone who reads and or replies.
Could I use LEXOL Leather Conditioner on my strops? I already use it for my leather jacket(s) and shoes so I already keep a fair amount of it around/on hand.
I have a full leather Böker Tree Brand Arbolito strop. It's brand new. Never been conditioned. One side is a burgandy/deep cognac color. The other side is a very light tan color that has a very fine "fuzz" or nap. No indication on which side to use. No canvas either. Just leather. No instructions came with it other than how to pass the razor back and forth. Your video addressed a cotton canvas strop, not a leather strop. How should I treat this leather strop? It did come with two yellow tubes of leather conditioner (Streichriemenpaste from Solingen). Also came with a red tube (Streichriemenpaste from Solingen). Both tubes say the same thing - "Paste for Razor Strop". Again, no instructions. I figured the yellow is for keeping the leather supple. The red tube is then for the "sharpening". How do I apply this paste? Straight to the leather? Which side of the leather? How large a patch of paste? About a third in the center?
Some great information here. Earlier today, I ordered 2x beginner strops and the new canvas only strop. I already have a new 5/8 Boker razor and the RE 3" English Bridle strop which were purchased from you from over a year ago, but I use it way too cautiously and did not learn too much due to the fear of nicking. I keep reading on the forums that pure neatsfoot or minsk oil, applied once in a while, is a good natural option to keep the leather in peak condition. How would these strop creams be different from these natural alternates ? Appreciate your response.
The only comment I would add, is that I think it’s a good idea to strop your razor ten or twenty times after you shave and after you have already dried your razor.
Hi Matt. Great video. When stropping you mention pressure. How would you elaborate on describing how to apply pressure and does the motion include keeping the razor straight or having a slight tilt during each pass? Thank you.
@@RazorEmporium I bought a razor and the only way I got good audible feedback was with a tilt. The razor isn't shave ready. After it's sharpened, will there be more feedback when stropping?
I have the natural horse hide one from razor emporium. If you were to give "draw" ratings on each of the strops, say 1-5, what would each score on the draw scale?
I learned a lot, thank you. May I ask - when you strop does the spine of the razor touch the strop? If yes, do you try to keep even pressure with the edge? Or do you try to keep more or less pressure on either the edge or the spine? Thank you.
Thanks for this. Very helpful. I wanted to ask if the paste you use of the same as something like “BlueSpot Buffing Compound” and if so can they dry out? If so, what do you do if they do dry out, to make them usable again?
Hey, I just start watching your videos, and I realy like it... can you tell me witch razor is better, I know they are not top quality, QSHAVE Adjustable Safety Razor Double Edge Classic or FEATHER Hi-Stainless Double-edged Holder Razor Popular... I have been using razor blades with cartridges for 15 years, and your video made me change, and now I want to try double edging razors, so ai need your help... Thank you
Really enjoy your informative videos! However, when using my thin LAGIPA leather strop, it turns to the side when I’m stropping. I hold it taught; is it the quality of the strop or is it me?
@@RazorEmporium The leather is on one side and canvas on the other, all connected as one piece front and back. However, I am happy to report it is turning less as I am becoming more proficient with stripping each day.
Not really sure what your point was. Do we choose to either use a leather strop with canvas on the other side? Or do we use canvas with the paste only? Or is it both? (Canvas, then leather...then switch to the canvas with paste to finish it)?
What Matt’s saying is that you can paste the canvas (or parts of it) to use in place of stones, as part of a full sharpening progression. But regardless, you should leave a piece of the canvas clean for drying off a razor after a shave, or as part of a normal stropping rotation (ie, no removing metal). So you’d use plain canvas to prep the edge, then leather for the final smoothing/re-aligning of your edge.
You don't really need to resort to stones if you are regularly "refreshing" the razor whilst the edge is still sharp (like once every 2-3 shaves) with something finer like chromium oxide. Your more abrasive stuff like the dovo "red and black" or diamond pastes will be good enough for further maintenance if that stops being enough. In 3+ years of straight razor shaving, I have been able to keep all of my purchased new razors sharp with just abrasives on strops. As soon as the razor is honed on a stone you are grinding in a new edge and the the factory geometry is gone - and you can't really replicate it without specialists tools. Keep your stones for vintage razors and disaster cases where you have to set a new edge.
According to Matt's video green chromium oxide is actually coarser than the red and black pastes. But it's what I use also. It's brought dull blades back to life for me. It keeps my blades wicked sharp. And I agree. If used regularly it can keep your blades sharp indefinitely to where they almost never need honing.
@trueblu8 Chromium oxides based pastes and powders can vary greatly (there are industrial ones that are 45 micros) , but the standard "green crayon" pastes that are sold as strop pastes are mostly around 0.5 microns. But yeah, I would definitely check before buying as it's relatively easy to end up with a paste that's rougher or finer than you wanted with chromium oxide, Dovo red and black are around 3 and 1.5 microns respectively.
@@JimIBobIJones I did not know this. Thanks. I have often wondered what is the difference between the green crayon chromium oxide which I use and the paste that comes in a jar. I will make sure to read the fine print before ordering more. Which one do you use or recommend?
Makes me wonder back in the old days when a barber would shave multiple people a day, how well they actually took care of the razors. I'm sure there were plenty of lazy barbers that were shaving people with pretty nasty dull razors!
In general or that one in particular? In general, the green will vary from 400 grit, up to around 30000. It's a common misconception to consider green compound very fine only. This being said, I don't have better info about what grit that one really is.
thanks to my work I got access to 1 to 0.5 micron diamond powder. could I theoretically use that as a substitute for the black paste? mixed with oil that is.
I've used blades and shavettes for a couple of years now, starting to feel exceedingly comfortable with that. Just did my first ever straight razor shave today, it was pretty.. awful. Tuggy, uncomfortable, just felt off. Think I was the optimist who figured you don't need to strop the very first time, now I imagine that's exactly what I did wrong. This and the original stropping video are some of the very best out there, you're not just explaining it but showing us actual practical examples - here's what it is, here's exactly how you use it. Thank you Matt.
You're just use to shavettes which are sharper because they have an insanely aggressive cutting angle
Great info as usual. Straight razor shaving is more of a rabbit hole than a hobby. It can however quickly turn into an obsession.
Only problem I have is, my facial hair doesn’t grow fast enough for my liking.
Don't forget fellas. It not about the length; it's about the quality of your strokes.
I recommend a separate paddle strop for pastes.
Unless you have a razor specific paddle with some kind of suspension, you are going to end up altering the geometry of your razor a bit. The slack of the strop helps keep the original geometry, which is why razor specific paddle strops from razor manufacturers always have some kind of suspension system built in (Dovo and Boker use a "spanner" system to suspend a leather belt whilst Thiers Issard cuts slits into their wooden paddles).
@@JimIBobIJones thank you for this info. No one has mentioned this info yet. A few cover strop tension but I was truly wondering why can’t you use a flat one on a table & why everyone uses a hanging strop for straight razors.
The razors are ground on wheels in the factory rather than on flat stones, which leads to a more "hollow" geometry on the cutting edge. This adds to the amount of desirable "flex" in the edge so it contours with your skin a bit better.
Honestly, I don't think its the end of the world if you use a solid paddle strop. If your razor has been retouched or honed on flat stones afterwards, then I wouldn't worry about it because the geometry is altered anyway.
An edge well honed on stones will be almost as good as a factory edge - because the hollow ground of the razor as a whole (and not just the cutting edge) will be a bigger contributor than cutting edge geometry.
But at the end of the day, if you want the factory geometry you want to stay away from honing/stropping on anything too stiff as far as possible.
@@JimIBobIJones This is an excellent point. I was wondering about this. I knew that slack was important.
I always warm my strop up in the morning just using my hand. I find it just takes a nice good few strokes, 25 maybe then give it a good buffing off after that.
Top of a Bible, taking "sharper than a sword" to a new level haha
OMG! Just tried the pastes out & already HUGE difference!! Many thanks!!!
I agree with the stropping it does not remove any metal, but metal edge becomes similar like a bur but gets lined up straight , When stropping the blade` the edge also stretches out wards away from the spine, so the depth of blade grows wider but not enough for the naked eyes to see, This also lines up the blades edge which becomes straight at the same time` but unlike a bur made on a stone that gets so fragile and gets removed the blades edge is so fine it just gets stretched and lined up because of the stropping away from the spine not towards, not like honing on the stone,
I also notice if I strop and test the razor it is sharper than if I stropped and used it later I think due to edge shrinking back not making it as fine, as the temp lowers in the edge of the blade,
The metal gets warmed up through friction when stropping which causes the fine edge to stretch and become sharper, I also notice rubbing the palm on the strop enough to warm the strop my blade reacts better on the strop,
But when a green paste is used witch I tried the once never again as my honing and stropping is great for a smooth shave but wanted to see what it was all about, but I suppose paste has its uses ` forgot the name of the green paste but you can clearly see the grey metal over time left on the strop webbing , some people say no that`s just oxidization, I disagree when using a compound your using it to get the edge finer this can only be achieved by removal or stretching the metal through friction , if people disagree then apply the paste on glass and rub enough your see it misting this is scratching at a micro level,
Also you have to way up the odds, if the razor becomes to fine you then will get razor burn, its important to notice the difference between what`s sharp and to sharp,
I forgot to say` liking the work you do on restoration to the Gillett razors second to non, and the knowledge you have shown the viewers
Getting a straight razor has upped my knife sharpening and stropping game substantially. Mostly in the form of slowing down and making each action meaningful. Going too fast or aggressive on a Ka-Bar knife, or a big piece of D2 tool steel won’t hurt anything [it doesn’t help it either, but it won’t hurt it]. That same sloppiness on a straight razor will def’y bite you.
Thanks for the videos. I love seeing someone geek out on something they’re passionate about. It’s immediately apparent when someone is just hocking something, as opposed to you guys - who happen to sell things, but come across as first looking to inform.
Cheers!
I just got into it after learning how to sharpen knives and trying to sharpen a Gold Dollar 80 I think I made all the mistakes possible and now have more questions even after watching a lot of how to's !
Exciting and stressful at the same time as you don't want to mess something up badly!
@@c.t.1697 gotta give yourself room to faceplant. When you make a $1,000 mistake by being careless or stupid, it sticks with you. For a time, you become absolutely immune to that particular mistake. You become the absolute last person on Earth who’d ever make that mistake. Chain enough of those together and viola! You’re an expert.
Just cause you mentioned letting your kids play with the compound. Most of the compounds used, especially the green is a carcinogen that you need to wash off & avoid any contact that could result in ingesting any of the compounds. I don't know if there's a risk of skin cancer by getting it on your skin, but I avoid it just in case. I use a microfiber cloth.
Great info! Also, definately true about how it can turn a chore into a hobby when you really get into straight razor shaving.
Exactly how I feel. I don't have much facial hair, so only shave about every 3 days or so. I get excited any time it's time to shave now.
Great video. The world of straight razors can be pretty confusing but this video helps a lot.
clarity and honesty perfect.
Great video Matt. I got your horsehide strop when we met at the big shave east and you were absolutely right, it’s a wonderful strop and has served me well ever since. Keep up the good work.
Yes to straight razor shaving and everything that goes with it!
Nice stropping instruction. I need the be of your horsehide stropps. The last one I ordered from Amazon came folded tightly in half which left wrinkles right in the middle. :(
I would add, be sure to clean the blade after you stropp and before you shave. There will be little pieces of leather on the face of the blade which you want to remove. Look at the edge under magnification and you’ll see.
Thank you! And so right about it becoming a part of your lifestyle. I always look forward to shaving now
I have all three of your strops. I love them. Also got the stropping pastes.
Excellent tutorial video , thinking about getting into straight razor shaving.
Congratulations! You are the winner of the weekly T-shirt giveaway contest! Please Contact me at Help@razorempiorium.com with your shipping address and your T-shirt Size. I will ship it out right away! Thank you for your support! - Razor Emporium Tean
Matt👍👍 Nicely done bro. Tried straights years ago when I was still working, the problem I had was time to maintain and actually shave. Bummer! I sold or gave away all related items. Wish I had it all back now as I have plenty of time. BUT, now the cost are prohibitive. Conundrum... Great video and info. Thanks. Stay safe and.... Enjoy!
Very good info. You just can't beat the basics.
Also you can remove stropping compound with olive oil and a paper towel.
On the leather part yes. On the linen you will have to take a scrub brush and some sudsy water to get it clean.
I have been having a bunch of different 'stropping' videos popping up on my feed. For me, it is always about the wood shop. Haven't shaved in eons.... So, to me, in the woodshop, stropping is to remove the burr from sharpening on stones. With a kitchen knife, the steel, either steel or ceramic, is what puts the teeth back in line, and stropping is more of a 'polishing' thing, but I can see where it can extend the life of the cutting edge. I am curious if the 'canvas' you use is available for sale in bulk. I want to glue it on some plywood or even granite. I have seen stropping pastes that go up to 60,000 grit. The need to experiment goes on....
This video was so timely! I’m just coming back to straight razors after a year off, and I was wondering, “should I recondition my strop?” 😅
Hi Matt- Great stropping tutorial; thank you! This video has certainly demystified and clarified many aspects of straight razor care and maintenance. Well done! I hope you have a great weekend ahead. Take good care and be safe and be well. Best regards, as always, Matt!
hi bud, a great vidio it took me 2 years to learn to properly use a cut throat and all that goes with it, it was a blood bath at first ,kind regards mike in the uk.
Those razors look counterfeit. Better send them to me for safe disposal :-)
Loved this vid!!!! I'm a customer now!!!!
Another excellent video!
Great information as always.
The Razor Emporium Horse is really fast. I also just picked up the black English bridal. It’s quick as well but has a different feeling than the horse
I use the green chromium oxide bar on the inside of my strop. I don’t use a straight razor that often so I rarely have to even touch up my razors. Very much so prefer my vintage and modern safety razors.
I’ll stick to DE shaving for now but when Matt posts a video I watch it:)
Grateful for video. It is an art. 🤔 heard the winner gets a straight razor instead of shirt 🙄😬
Thanks Matt, GREAT info !
Thanks!!!
Another great video! Straightforward and informative as always. I wish I had known about the green before I bought some, but I only applied it to half of one side of the linen, so I'll be fine. I learned the hard way that this was a mistake. I'm curious about the diamond paste versus the oxide pastes. I don't much about it and would like more information before I commit. Thanks!!
Very informative , thanks .
Great video & information, thank you!
Life brings you information in ways that are sometimes impressive. I've been having some questions for a couple weeks and did not know where to get the answers.
I started with a shavette a little more then a year ago. I'm no expert but I don't cut myself anymore.
I had the opportunity to borrow a very old straight razor (unknown brand) from my uncles father (98 years old). I had the blade sharpened.
I find the shaving with the old blade is rougher then with the shavette. Is this normal? I was thinking that the blade was not sharpened with a stone of a high enough grit.
Any ideas?
Thank you for your answer and time.
JL
I believe your assumptions are correct. The straight razor was probably not taken to a high enough stone or grit. Although a straight razor will never be as sharp as a shavette I don't think.
There are different reasons for stropping ranging from routine maintenance for daily shaving use to edge restoration and the in between occasional hone and strop touch up. For restoration and touch-up I use Flexcut Gold on a traditional two sided leather/canvas handle strop with great success. This is NOT a criticism of your method, not at all. The traditional and advanced approach here is time honored and solid
Where can I get this gold stropping paste? Sounds cool. ✨
And why do you use the gold paste versus other colors? What grit is it? Do you know?
Thanks for this video!
Do I understand correctly that stropping paste is only applied on canvas and not on leather? And that you always end the stropping on the leather surface as the final step?
Yes to both.
@@RazorEmporium Thanks Matt!
Love that herolds solingen! I usually only use green for pocket knives that come off a 1200 because they are all over the place in grit and unmeasured, but I found one rated at .5/60k, said to be specifically for fine strops.. and its exactly the same size as the little herolds bars. YEP, it really is a .5! most greens I wouldnt think of since my last stone is 8k, but the results prove the mfgr claim.
I just bought the green paste brick. Chromium oxide. I’m brand new to this world. I just a new Dovo straight razor and it couldn’t cut hot butter let alone my 3 day beard. I just saw this video and you recommend using the red and black. I’m getting confused. Y all the info. Any recommendations? Thanks Bob
Hello,
The video is awesome and easy to follow for a newbie.
I have 2 questions about the canvas side usage with a straight razor.
1- After stropping with sharpening pastes, is it a good idea to clean the edge with a cloth and proceed to the clean canvas or ignore the cloth and go straight to the clean canvas?
2- Once done shaving and drying the straight razor, is it recommended to strop on the canvas side to further remove any liquid, soap residue?
Thank you very much.
I replied to your email. 1) doesn't matter either way. 2) absolutely yes.
Hello, Matt. Is there a way to clean up my horse hide strop that has a few small nicks and scratches from being a rookie? I knew or I should say I was told that would happen by the maker. That's why he sold me the second best strop instead of the best one he makes.
I'm pretty sure there is no way to clear those. There are only a couple very shallow gouges near the edges and two scratches that are very very barely there. But I can feel the lip of the scratch just barely. They smooth down when I rub my hand across to warm it up. But they are still there.
Can 100% pure natural unprocessed, but filtered, bees wax be used for conditioning the leather strop? It would actually fill in the scratches and tiny nicks keeping the surface smooth.
Thanks to anyone who reads and or replies.
czcams.com/video/M-St2eaUrNM/video.html
@@RazorEmporium --- thank you for the link.
Could I use LEXOL Leather Conditioner on my strops? I already use it for my leather jacket(s) and shoes so I already keep a fair amount of it around/on hand.
I used Mink Oil on my Strop. Worked Good.
So... the green paste is what grit? That’s what came in my nakedarmor shaving kit
3-5k
I have a full leather Böker Tree Brand Arbolito strop. It's brand new. Never been conditioned. One side is a burgandy/deep cognac color. The other side is a very light tan color that has a very fine "fuzz" or nap. No indication on which side to use. No canvas either. Just leather. No instructions came with it other than how to pass the razor back and forth. Your video addressed a cotton canvas strop, not a leather strop. How should I treat this leather strop? It did come with two yellow tubes of leather conditioner (Streichriemenpaste from Solingen). Also came with a red tube (Streichriemenpaste from Solingen). Both tubes say the same thing - "Paste for Razor Strop". Again, no instructions. I figured the yellow is for keeping the leather supple. The red tube is then for the "sharpening". How do I apply this paste? Straight to the leather? Which side of the leather? How large a patch of paste? About a third in the center?
Great video
Some great information here. Earlier today, I ordered 2x beginner strops and the new canvas only strop. I already have a new 5/8 Boker razor and the RE 3" English Bridle strop which were purchased from you from over a year ago, but I use it way too cautiously and did not learn too much due to the fear of nicking. I keep reading on the forums that pure neatsfoot or minsk oil, applied once in a while, is a good natural option to keep the leather in peak condition. How would these strop creams be different from these natural alternates ? Appreciate your response.
What were your findings?
The only comment I would add, is that I think it’s a good idea to strop your razor ten or twenty times after you shave and after you have already dried your razor.
I have a question.
How do I know what a quality razor is. How do I choose the right one to buy?
Great video!
The way he looked at that jelly told me that he doesn't just use it on the strop.
Matt, I can/t find the canvas only strop on the website. Is it still available?
www.razoremporium.com/razor-emporium-strop-canvas/
Is there a truly accurate yest to determine if your razor is at maximum sharpness ?
No
@@RazorEmporium, so no hanging hair test then ?
Is the paste usually hard like a crayon or is it loose upon receiving it in the mail?
Depends on climate. Pretty soft honestly.
@@RazorEmporium can I put it somewhere cool like in the fridge for a little bit to get hard or what?
They should really put that paste in a lip balm tube
Hi Matt. Great video. When stropping you mention pressure. How would you elaborate on describing how to apply pressure and does the motion include keeping the razor straight or having a slight tilt during each pass?
Thank you.
No tilt. Spine creates the angle. Keep your blade flat with enough pressure to no lift it off.
@@RazorEmporium I bought a razor and the only way I got good audible feedback was with a tilt. The razor isn't shave ready. After it's sharpened, will there be more feedback when stropping?
@@bTome9123 what brand of razor? Grind?
@@RazorEmporium Dovo and hollow.
Just starting out; how important are the pastes?
They aren't needed. You can Instead use stones exclusively
Highly recommend the pastes brother. Much easier to use and cheaper than stones. Although get both at some point just for the full experience.
Really helpful
I have the natural horse hide one from razor emporium. If you were to give "draw" ratings on each of the strops, say 1-5, what would each score on the draw scale?
Light draw - english bridle
Medium - latigo
Heavy - horsehide
Great thanks. The heavy draw are better for wedges.
Great video Matt, but you didn’t tell anything about the yellow one. I apply it before each shaving. I suppose it’s a mistake?
Yes that is far too often.
I learned a lot, thank you. May I ask - when you strop does the spine of the razor touch the strop? If yes, do you try to keep even pressure with the edge? Or do you try to keep more or less pressure on either the edge or the spine? Thank you.
Light pressure. Keep it flat.
@@RazorEmporium awesome, thanks
Getting ready to re-apply the pastes. Should I be doing it in the same spot (over the old paste), or applying it in a different spot?
Same is fine
Thanks for this. Very helpful. I wanted to ask if the paste you use of the same as something like “BlueSpot Buffing Compound” and if so can they dry out? If so, what do you do if they do dry out, to make them usable again?
What equipment would you recommend for those of us who may be looking to transition from a DE razor to a straight razor?
A shavette!
Hi Matt
Please do a shave showdown with Gillette king c series and Gillette aloe shaving cream
Did Gillette Ever Produce Straight Razors?????
No.
Hey, I just start watching your videos, and I realy like it... can you tell me witch razor is better, I know they are not top quality, QSHAVE Adjustable Safety Razor Double Edge Classic or FEATHER Hi-Stainless Double-edged Holder Razor Popular... I have been using razor blades with cartridges for 15 years, and your video made me change, and now I want to try double edging razors, so ai need your help... Thank you
Really enjoy your informative videos! However, when using my thin LAGIPA leather strop, it turns to the side when I’m stropping. I hold it taught; is it the quality of the strop or is it me?
Is the canvas connected to the leather? Or separate handles for each?
@@RazorEmporium The leather is on one side and canvas on the other, all connected as one piece front and back. However, I am happy to report it is turning less as I am becoming more proficient with stripping each day.
Would it be worthwhile putting electrical tape onto the spine whilst stropping with the compound?
I dont think it removes that much material. But you can do it if you so desire
Wow, so the stripe dressing is actually rust in a wax?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron%28III%29_oxide?wprov=sfla1 yes more appropriately called ferric oxide.
Masallah muhtesem mükemmel görünüyor çok güzel olmuş eline sağlık üstadım tebrikler 🤌🤌🤌
Any difference in technique for a stainless steel razor vs non?
Not for stropping. Maybe just quantities in the lap dept. Thx
Not really sure what your point was. Do we choose to either use a leather strop with canvas on the other side? Or do we use canvas with the paste only? Or is it both? (Canvas, then leather...then switch to the canvas with paste to finish it)?
What Matt’s saying is that you can paste the canvas (or parts of it) to use in place of stones, as part of a full sharpening progression. But regardless, you should leave a piece of the canvas clean for drying off a razor after a shave, or as part of a normal stropping rotation (ie, no removing metal). So you’d use plain canvas to prep the edge, then leather for the final smoothing/re-aligning of your edge.
You don't really need to resort to stones if you are regularly "refreshing" the razor whilst the edge is still sharp (like once every 2-3 shaves) with something finer like chromium oxide. Your more abrasive stuff like the dovo "red and black" or diamond pastes will be good enough for further maintenance if that stops being enough. In 3+ years of straight razor shaving, I have been able to keep all of my purchased new razors sharp with just abrasives on strops.
As soon as the razor is honed on a stone you are grinding in a new edge and the the factory geometry is gone - and you can't really replicate it without specialists tools. Keep your stones for vintage razors and disaster cases where you have to set a new edge.
According to Matt's video green chromium oxide is actually coarser than the red and black pastes. But it's what I use also. It's brought dull blades back to life for me. It keeps my blades wicked sharp. And I agree. If used regularly it can keep your blades sharp indefinitely to where they almost never need honing.
@trueblu8 Chromium oxides based pastes and powders can vary greatly (there are industrial ones that are 45 micros) , but the standard "green crayon" pastes that are sold as strop pastes are mostly around 0.5 microns. But yeah, I would definitely check before buying as it's relatively easy to end up with a paste that's rougher or finer than you wanted with chromium oxide,
Dovo red and black are around 3 and 1.5 microns respectively.
@@JimIBobIJones I did not know this. Thanks. I have often wondered what is the difference between the green crayon chromium oxide which I use and the paste that comes in a jar. I will make sure to read the fine print before ordering more. Which one do you use or recommend?
@@trueblu8 Any that advertises its micron count. Honestly IMHO its all the same stuff.
@@JimIBobIJones what microns or grit do you feel is the best for maintaining razors edges?
I'm new to this. My stepsons got me a straight razor. Would tea-tree oil work?
Not sure. Mineral oil.is certainly cheaper.
@@RazorEmporium my wife works at store with all natural things and gets discounts on everything. I'm shopping around for a strop before i use it.
Do you HAVE to use a chromium oxide bar?
No. But it's highly recommended to keep your blades sharp. And much easier to use than stones.
good thing you didn't hold that red paste, for you can just rub it in with your hand anyway? Good video though
Wait are we not talking about razors where you just replace the blad
Makes me wonder back in the old days when a barber would shave multiple people a day, how well they actually took care of the razors. I'm sure there were plenty of lazy barbers that were shaving people with pretty nasty dull razors!
Um, no...you don't mistreat a customer and expect them to return. You can't hide the fact that a razor is dull.
@@davidstevens8086💯
I thought the green Chromium Oxide was 0.5 micron
In general or that one in particular? In general, the green will vary from 400 grit, up to around 30000. It's a common misconception to consider green compound very fine only.
This being said, I don't have better info about what grit that one really is.
I use a green to hone leather cutting tools. The tools need to be scary sharp to obtain a clean cut
❤
This is my comment and I want to be the winner. ‘ why does this girl keep shaving her beard?’
Great video but 6 adverts in 8 F*#%€$¥ minutes is a joke 🤬🤬.
thanks to my work I got access to 1 to 0.5 micron diamond powder. could I theoretically use that as a substitute for the black paste? mixed with oil that is.
Could work