If you thin that glue with some blue wiper fluid (methyl alcohol) it will wick into the grain and solidify the wood. Then apply a thicker application over that. As a woodworker I use gallons of old yellow glue. I like Elmer's but they're all similar. They can be thinned and they can be thickened, with all purpose flour and/or sawdust, when you need gap filling capability. Keep rolling!
I do woodworking for a living, so I use my shop equipment to fix my skateboard tails. I start with plaining down a piece of scrap maple to about 1/4 of an inch, then I use clamps to attach it with wood glue to my tail, then I use a large belt sander to take down the excess wood once the glue is dry. Finally I touch it up at with a little bit of hand sanding and the board is pretty much back to pre wear.
This is such a great hack. I ride flight decks (one pool setup & one street). The decks stay stiff forever but razor out a bit faster. I have been working on getting backside airs and have started by doing nose grab tail scrapes which eats away at the tail. I was pondering getting a tail skid plate, but wasn't excited about that. I started using wood glue like your suggestion and it has been great. I just add more glue after each session. Thanks for posting this. I wouldn't have thought to add a small line of glue at the tail.
Hey Dan, don't forget about all the Canadian maple, too! I'm 45 and started skating again. My wife finds it hilarious that there is an online community of us... keep up the good work... I'm off to the hardware store to get some glue!
hey this is a great idea, we really should be doing things like this to help save trees. ive found that almost boards razor tail a little slower than other brands because of the resin glue they use. most of their boards also have some form of their impact tech, which really helps keep the pop longer. ive tested them back to back over months against regular 7 plys, and was pretty impressed. you can also re-grip older boards too. combine all these things together with your glue idea, and you could have some seriously long lasting boards. it's hard for sure to fight that urge for new ones, but it's worth it to ride them until you actually feel they hold back your tricks
Cool tip I’m gonna give this a try . It’s tough being an environmentalist and enjoying a hobby that relies on oil, deforestation and peppering micro plastics with every flick! Hopefully we get some more environmentally-friendly innovation as more people become conscious of this stuff. Peace!
the tech is getting there, most skaters are just too stubborn to try something new lol, non abrasive grip to stop you using new shoes every month, vx/flight decks last several months(ive had one i skate in the rain and shit for over a year) vs standard maple deck that ill break in a week, the only thing i need is for vx or flight to design some kind of edge gaurd to prevent razor tail and ill have me a forever board lol
I started using this "hack" a few weeks ago after first seeing this video and I absolutely love it. It really is saving my tail/nose from severe razor tail. I'm just getting back into skating after nearly 2 decades and I got severe razor tail on my first deck back in a couple weeks, I found this tip just before o got my second deck had it about 4 weeks and I have minimal razor tail and trust me, I drag my tail often, especially while I'm practicing manuals. I try to put a new bead of glue on my nose/tail after each session.
Honestly a super great tip! After filling in some cavities and reinforcing the thinning tail on my board with an extra coat of glue, I noticed more effortless pops (almost like brand new.) Thank you for this vid. Way too underated!!! 🤙
Gonna have to give this a try! The only thing I was worried about b4 seeing your video, when I had a similar idea is the glue being softer than the wood. Buy like u said, worse case senario is it wears right off and I don't like it so don't repeat... Thanks
Awesome, will give it a shot. Love my Element featherlight deck but gets really bad razor tail quickly, especially because I've been practicing a lot of longer manuals and pivots. been using Q-bond glue and even glued a piece of binder plastic to the tip of the tail, it works well and I haven't noticed too much loss in pop. This seems like a much better solution though.
as i kid i couldn't really afford new boards.. ever? i basically survived on hand me downs til i got my first job! there was this one board that i had this exact idea for! i used to fill in chips with wood glue too! that board in particular in the end was more wood glue than board! it basically had no kicks by the time i was done with it. i remember finally getting a newer board from a friend and i could finally pop again haha!
I put wood glue on the tail dust with fine sawdust pat it in a little and even it up let dry over night the wipe off excess dust add more glue and repeat until desired thickness I use gorilla wood glue works awesome
I recently been thinking of ways to prevent razor tail and had a few theories I was going to test out but honestly this hack seems much simpler and easier to do. I think I'm gonna start doing this, thanks for the tip
@@volumeeleven6284 I’m sure you already have learned by now but for someone reading you can use a blow dryer to heat the glue and make it peel off a lot easier
Thanks dude,I been watching some of your videos,I'm 38 and just started up again 2 years ago after over 20yrs and was happy to c that u r pretty much exactly where I'm at in skateboarding.my youtube channel is not nearly as good as urs but I work alot manual labor so the little time and energy I have I put all into skating.The glue tip is great,I agree with the physics and deck of cards.keep up the goodwork
Not a bad idea but remember saw dust is not as hard as glue and pure glue would give you better pop than mixed with dust. I'm using pure epoxy right now and think it's great
Awesome, this seems great! I am about to test super glue for this, but wood glue is probably a little less toxic and hopefully a little more effective.
I will say this is a great tip but that PVA is not good for the environment. Its non renewable and non natural since its made from fossil fuels but wood and maple especially is. Maple grows fantastically all across north america. As far as VPA goes though, there are enzymes added to municipal water sources to break it down but that doesnt mean trillions of micro plastics arent leeched into soils before they make it to a water way that may or may not make it to a water treatment facility that cleans the water. also micro plastics sink and can embed in waterways or get consumed by animals in and around those waterways. Better than epoxy though.
Nice video, but still.... I already wrote to Santa Cruz, but they don't care to even respond, so.... I wonder why for example 'more expensive' decks doesn't have inserted small layer of metal plate in middle layer... Like i have VX Santa Cruz Deck because i've got some weight and didn't want to risk i break my deck after few 'minutes' of sk8ing... VX Deck has only 3 wood layers + bottom and top layer made by some carbon vibre something and after aprox 5 hours of sk8ing i have razer tails... It's pretty annoying, so my idea was, like to have 5-7 layers of wood (or wood + those special layers) and the 2nd from bottom could be little bit smaller in lenght and inserted some metal/plastic piece which could be there as prevention against razor tailing.... These kind of self repeairs are nice, but i don't have time for this after a few hours make some replacement... and those plastics something which can be screwed to the board are not even ugly, but can't even imagine trying slides with it, like nose slide/ tail slide because their shape o_O
It's actually from 50-50's, coming off the end of the box without popping, and scraping the end of the angle iron on my tail. I'm trying to get better at that....slow progress.
Oh, one more Question, do you know what companies make the deeper concave decks , I also like a little more concave for easy flipping and easy pop. cheers.
Tactics is an online skateshop that does a pretty good job of showing board specs. It's not perfect, but for many of the boards on there they'll tell you if it's mellow, medium, or steep concave. Sometimes even the amount (in inches).
I have a old school deck I want to ride instead of hang. It has bad razer tail can I raze it up over a couple days back to stock or will it be a waist of time and come off in one big chunk?
Awesome! I searched and searched and was surprised that I couldn't find other people already doing this. I'm glad that so many people have found it to be helpful.
I did this with Liquid Nail years ago. It worked pretty well. That stuff takes a long time to fully harden though, so I’d definitely like to try your wood glue method.
If you thin that glue with some blue wiper fluid (methyl alcohol) it will wick into the grain and solidify the wood. Then apply a thicker application over that. As a woodworker I use gallons of old yellow glue. I like Elmer's but they're all similar. They can be thinned and they can be thickened, with all purpose flour and/or sawdust, when you need gap filling capability. Keep rolling!
I do woodworking for a living, so I use my shop equipment to fix my skateboard tails. I start with plaining down a piece of scrap maple to about 1/4 of an inch, then I use clamps to attach it with wood glue to my tail, then I use a large belt sander to take down the excess wood once the glue is dry. Finally I touch it up at with a little bit of hand sanding and the board is pretty much back to pre wear.
Nice idea, I’m going to try this!
holup arent you the guy who made sandstorm lmao so random to find you here
This is such a great hack. I ride flight decks (one pool setup & one street). The decks stay stiff forever but razor out a bit faster. I have been working on getting backside airs and have started by doing nose grab tail scrapes which eats away at the tail. I was pondering getting a tail skid plate, but wasn't excited about that. I started using wood glue like your suggestion and it has been great. I just add more glue after each session.
Thanks for posting this. I wouldn't have thought to add a small line of glue at the tail.
Hey Dan, don't forget about all the Canadian maple, too! I'm 45 and started skating again. My wife finds it hilarious that there is an online community of us... keep up the good work... I'm off to the hardware store to get some glue!
hey this is a great idea, we really should be doing things like this to help save trees. ive found that almost boards razor tail a little slower than other brands because of the resin glue they use. most of their boards also have some form of their impact tech, which really helps keep the pop longer. ive tested them back to back over months against regular 7 plys, and was pretty impressed. you can also re-grip older boards too. combine all these things together with your glue idea, and you could have some seriously long lasting boards. it's hard for sure to fight that urge for new ones, but it's worth it to ride them until you actually feel they hold back your tricks
Cool tip I’m gonna give this a try . It’s tough being an environmentalist and enjoying a hobby that relies on oil, deforestation and peppering micro plastics with every flick! Hopefully we get some more environmentally-friendly innovation as more people become conscious of this stuff. Peace!
the tech is getting there, most skaters are just too stubborn to try something new lol, non abrasive grip to stop you using new shoes every month, vx/flight decks last several months(ive had one i skate in the rain and shit for over a year) vs standard maple deck that ill break in a week, the only thing i need is for vx or flight to design some kind of edge gaurd to prevent razor tail and ill have me a forever board lol
I started using this "hack" a few weeks ago after first seeing this video and I absolutely love it. It really is saving my tail/nose from severe razor tail. I'm just getting back into skating after nearly 2 decades and I got severe razor tail on my first deck back in a couple weeks, I found this tip just before o got my second deck had it about 4 weeks and I have minimal razor tail and trust me, I drag my tail often, especially while I'm practicing manuals. I try to put a new bead of glue on my nose/tail after each session.
Awesome, glad it's working for you!
Honestly a super great tip! After filling in some cavities and reinforcing the thinning tail on my board with an extra coat of glue, I noticed more effortless pops (almost like brand new.) Thank you for this vid. Way too underated!!! 🤙
Great video! Love the environment concern for the trees! Thank you! Keep up the great work! 🤙🛹
Impact me , financially! Love this ,thank you!
Hey Dan, I just recently started skating again and I find your tutorial style really easy to follow. Please do a kickflip tutorial if you can!
Gonna have to give this a try! The only thing I was worried about b4 seeing your video, when I had a similar idea is the glue being softer than the wood.
Buy like u said, worse case senario is it wears right off and I don't like it so don't repeat...
Thanks
Awesome, will give it a shot. Love my Element featherlight deck but gets really bad razor tail quickly, especially because I've been practicing a lot of longer manuals and pivots. been using Q-bond glue and even glued a piece of binder plastic to the tip of the tail, it works well and I haven't noticed too much loss in pop. This seems like a much better solution though.
as i kid i couldn't really afford new boards.. ever? i basically survived on hand me downs til i got my first job! there was this one board that i had this exact idea for! i used to fill in chips with wood glue too! that board in particular in the end was more wood glue than board! it basically had no kicks by the time i was done with it. i remember finally getting a newer board from a friend and i could finally pop again haha!
I put wood glue on the tail dust with fine sawdust pat it in a little and even it up let dry over night the wipe off excess dust add more glue and repeat until desired thickness I use gorilla wood glue works awesome
I recently been thinking of ways to prevent razor tail and had a few theories I was going to test out but honestly this hack seems much simpler and easier to do. I think I'm gonna start doing this, thanks for the tip
A great tip, I’ll have to try it. I often refurbish old decks. Sand off the graphics, clear coat and add new grip. Feels like skating a new deck! 😃
how do you replace the grip?
@@volumeeleven6284 czcams.com/video/MVs_jbqUB7U/video.html
@@volumeeleven6284 I’m sure you already have learned by now but for someone reading you can use a blow dryer to heat the glue and make it peel off a lot easier
Thanks dude,I been watching some of your videos,I'm 38 and just started up again 2 years ago after over 20yrs and was happy to c that u r pretty much exactly where I'm at in skateboarding.my youtube channel is not nearly as good as urs but I work alot manual labor so the little time and energy I have I put all into skating.The glue tip is great,I agree with the physics and deck of cards.keep up the goodwork
Awesome idea. Bought some work glue and applied it an hour ago. Gonna wait overnight and see how it goes.
I can tell you’re a scientist/engineer based on how you present your technique. Awesome tip
Yeah I'm an electrical engineer. Glad you found it helpful!
I would add a sawdust too. Another fast tip - using a glue gun (or a glue stick+lighter to melt and apply, no gun needed)
Not a bad idea but remember saw dust is not as hard as glue and pure glue would give you better pop than mixed with dust. I'm using pure epoxy right now and think it's great
Only a real skater would think of shit like this….. LOL 😂
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for this, I’ve just been using this glue for the first time tonight on my skateboards nose, it’s cracked and has a bad pop. Using claps on it
Awesome, this seems great! I am about to test super glue for this, but wood glue is probably a little less toxic and hopefully a little more effective.
Thanks man really helpful video
this is smart. gonna keep my flight deck razor tails from stabbing my ankles haha
I wonder if adding iron filings would help. 1 lb is about $10.
Great tips
thanks for the tip!
Try sprinkling saw dust in it
Genius! Never thought of this!
Nice lol I dunno if I could find that brand here overseas, but I’m down to try that for sure!
Great video dude, never knew this was an option
Good video bro very util
I also had this idea with glue on the tale, but was thinking of some harder glue like construction glue have tried that?
Powersliding helps save your razertail too
How?
@Chillin & Vibin bruh wtf why did I ask how lmao I must have read the comment wrong 😑 I powerslide all the time lmao
It works pretty good, thanks!
fantastic idea
I use gorilla wood glue. it works good for me.????
I will say this is a great tip but that PVA is not good for the environment. Its non renewable and non natural since its made from fossil fuels but wood and maple especially is. Maple grows fantastically all across north america. As far as VPA goes though, there are enzymes added to municipal water sources to break it down but that doesnt mean trillions of micro plastics arent leeched into soils before they make it to a water way that may or may not make it to a water treatment facility that cleans the water. also micro plastics sink and can embed in waterways or get consumed by animals in and around those waterways. Better than epoxy though.
Nice video, but still.... I already wrote to Santa Cruz, but they don't care to even respond, so.... I wonder why for example 'more expensive' decks doesn't have inserted small layer of metal plate in middle layer... Like i have VX Santa Cruz Deck because i've got some weight and didn't want to risk i break my deck after few 'minutes' of sk8ing... VX Deck has only 3 wood layers + bottom and top layer made by some carbon vibre something and after aprox 5 hours of sk8ing i have razer tails... It's pretty annoying, so my idea was, like to have 5-7 layers of wood (or wood + those special layers) and the 2nd from bottom could be little bit smaller in lenght and inserted some metal/plastic piece which could be there as prevention against razor tailing.... These kind of self repeairs are nice, but i don't have time for this after a few hours make some replacement... and those plastics something which can be screwed to the board are not even ugly, but can't even imagine trying slides with it, like nose slide/ tail slide because their shape o_O
Have you tested normal vs MAX Elmer’s Wood Glue?
Could i repair a split deck with woodglue?
What is causing those weird parallel scrapes/indentation on your tail? Never seen markings like that.
I think it’s from hitting little rocks when you pop
It's actually from 50-50's, coming off the end of the box without popping, and scraping the end of the angle iron on my tail. I'm trying to get better at that....slow progress.
Oh, one more Question, do you know what companies make the deeper concave decks , I also like a little more concave for easy flipping and easy pop. cheers.
Tactics is an online skateshop that does a pretty good job of showing board specs. It's not perfect, but for many of the boards on there they'll tell you if it's mellow, medium, or steep concave. Sometimes even the amount (in inches).
kool stuff man
I have a old school deck I want to ride instead of hang. It has bad razer tail can I raze it up over a couple days back to stock or will it be a waist of time and come off in one big chunk?
try it! if it really sucks just purposely razor tail it back down and call it done.
I'ma try this with with saw dust
wood filler too
Thanks man! Such a great idea!
Anyone tried resin?
I came here coz im using this technique too i just invented it too with my own.
Awesome! I searched and searched and was surprised that I couldn't find other people already doing this. I'm glad that so many people have found it to be helpful.
I did this with Liquid Nail years ago. It worked pretty well. That stuff takes a long time to fully harden though, so I’d definitely like to try your wood glue method.