THE CHEAPEST WAY to get a BEAUTIFUL Barn Ceiling! ALL ABOUT TONGUE & GROOVE - Cost & Strategies
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2020
- Logan shows us why and how to install tongue and groove pine roof decking on a timber frame wedding barn.
Timber framed building use large timbers and big spans to create a simple and beautiful aesthetic to barn building. Logan explains how much tongue and groove decking costs and the strategies for installing it efficiently.
Getting tongue and groove boards tight is very important and planning the roof rafter layout will help installation go smoothly.
Here are the screws we used for this installation: amzn.to/3hgwmF2
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#timberframe #woodceiling #barn - Jak na to + styl
Creating a structure which shall have a 100+ year old life span through timeless craftsmanship & quality materials! Keep up the great work Logan & Crew !
This thing is a beast. I can’t wait for you to see the cupola!
Beautiful structure! Nice work .
Sweet skills and structure! What a pleasure to be able to learn and watch this process! Keep it up thanks
Thanks so much for sharing your expertise with us. This was a very well presented video.
You’re welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful
Very nice vid explaining a wood roof decking sys & tricks & tips.
Thank you!
Feels like I have an air hose being disconnected and reconnected on one side of my head, and an impact gun driving lag screws on the other side - while trying to hear someone whisper.
Roof looks nice.
Ha! Sorry about that...
I have a dream to own a cafe made on these lines. Shall have it one day. Keep up bros
Yes! This would be an amazing building for a cafe
Beautiful T&G. You guys do a great job. I'll be starting my roofing project soon, owner-builder. 2"x6" T&G Structural earth covered roof, only about 2000 sq.ft.
That sounds awesome! Send photos when you get the earthen roof installed!
Very helpful!
Super!
What layup pattern did you use? Looks like Controlled Random Layup? But then you mentioned at 12:26 that you use whole boards end to end, which isn't possible with controlled random, as you must stagger board joins and so some boards must be cut short.
I'm currently installing my own 2x6 T&G roof decking and have found it much easier and faster to just use a Simple Span Layup (each span gets its own board) so you don't have to mess with correcting twisted boards since they only span 4 feet each. Plus it makes for a stronger roof since each span has eight nails in it.
I searched the comments but couldn't find an answer. Sorry if its been asked and answered already. What do yo do at the peak? How is the peak addressed? Thanks for the video.
I want to do this to my home as I need a new roof and already wanted T&G but the aesthetic cedar boards are so expensive it didn't seem worth it. If I were to do this, would i just cover the exterior with plywood so I could still have some insulation? I was thinking foam style roof since I have a 1/12 slope roof
You appear to be violating code on your installation by installing tongue down.
Per page 1 in the AWC T&G guide and page 5 in the AITC 112-93 Tongue and Groove Guide : "Tongue and groove wood decking shall be installed with tongues up on sloped or pitched roofs."
Tongues up is the best way. We were required to glue the joint together and to get adequate glue on all surfaces and to prevent a mess, we reversed that orientation and installed groove up .
Love your work👍
Short question:
A rabbet joint instead tongue & groove for a roof decking can do the job?
Thank you.
Yes, as long as you nail it down well, probably with glue and lap the rabbets like ship lap siding to drain water
@@HeirloomBuilders Thank you for answering my question.
At the top the roof is going to be covered with membrane and roof tiles.
Undernearh there is open space, a patio toward backyard.
4x5 rafters spaced at 3 ft. 12 ft. Long and a 6 ft. Span.
The only reason I want to make some kinda joints is to make it look nice and hide future contractions of roof decking but I don't have tools to make the "tongue & groove" joints. For me the rabbet joint is much convenient.
Greetings from România 👋🇷🇴
Hey Logan(great name!), just wanted to say I learned a LOT from your vids. Love the enthusiasm and detail. Some of the great vids I've seen are the lime plaster, the mono slab and now this. Can you tell me which software you use for the construction detail like the one in this vid? I would like to get into which software to use, but realizing a lot of them are just "designer" software. Please keep posting these vids when you have the time!
I use SketchUp and love it! It’s really intuitive
@@HeirloomBuilders Cool, I'm checking it out now! There are 4 versions... 'Free' 'Go' 'Pro' and 'Studio'.... Which one do you use?
@@LogansRun314 I use the pro version, beachside I use it everyday to generate house plans. The free version is good, but limited in what you can produce
Hey Brother I am in Greenville NC looking at doing 5,000 sqft of porch , posts, headers and rafters with cypress and either 2x6 T&G Douglas fir or Pine. 1st time doing a roof like this, 2100 on porch of house and 2900 on porch for shop. A few questions. I am close to your job on this video. 1-Where did you get the T&G from? 2- Exactly what fasteners were those? 3- I was thinking of using Ice shield paper? 4- Would it make any sense to put a coat of clear on top before placing the Ice shield ? thought that could help from rotting if metal roof leaked down the stretch, but also dont want to cause problems with finish coats on top and bottom?
T&g came from east coast lumber. Fasteners are linked in the video description - available on Amazon. If you can afford to put ice and water shield down, definitely do it! We used ice and water on the low pitch shed roof section and a regular roof underlayment above. I wouldn’t bother coating the top side of the t & g. Best of luck to you!!!
$2.25 a board foot in PA yesterday, I guess all the people home on COVID decided to do renovations.
You're right about COVID projects. Plus tariffs on Canadian lumber, a few untimely large sawmill fires, and reduced capacity at mills due to social distancing protocols. Right now is definitely not a good time to buy lumber. The National Home Builders Association is working hard to bring prices down because it's increased the average home cost by $18,000.
@@HeirloomBuilders I have a question I could really use your advice on. I am redoing a porch roof decking with tongue and groove pine 2x6x12 (1.5x5). It is 36x10' and log 4' centers. I assume doing 6' then two 12' and another 6 would lead to the roof gaining funky angles along those joint lines if they all match up. Can i do that on the first row then a 10' two 12' and a 2' then go back with a 10' and put the 2' on the other end and repeat up the roof? or will that 2' on the overhang be too weak? With the price of wood I don't have spare board to do it any other way. Any advice would be appreciated.
I hear that! Install a 3-row pattern just like you've described. Starters alternate 2', 6', 10', 2', 6', 10', etc. With uneven log rafters, I would glue the tongue and groove together for the first and last 6 feet of each row. The roof overhang will be plenty strong that way. Good luck!
@@HeirloomBuilders Thank you.
So Im curious with the wat the tongue & groove is laid. Would it be better and water sound (gravity) to have the groove side down and not the tongue?
Yes it would. We installed tongue down thinking we would need to hammer them together (which is easier with a beater block laid against the groove side).
Was there anything else added on top to keep it water tight? I am thinking of doing my backyard canopy like this but adding zip OSB on top and shingles to keep it water tight.
No plywood needed on top, we just added roofing underlayment and metal roofing
How do you handle insulating on top of the roof, R-values, or built-up section to accommodate rigid foam?
There are a few ways to do it, but this was an un-insulated barn with no foam on top.
What fasteners are you using to attached the T&G boards to the rafters?
Hey Stephen! They are the Starborn Structural F23 Multi-Purpose Flat Head Wood Screw 2-7/8": amzn.to/3hgwmF2
Beautiful work. What size screws did you use?
They are the Starborn Structural F23 Multi-Purpose Flat Head Wood Screw 2-7/8": amzn.to/3hgwmF2
Shouldn't you install these so that the tongues on the upper edges so that the water won't sit in the grooves if you ever get a leak through whatever your installing on top of these?
Yes. You are right. Normally we would need to install like tongue and groove subfloor plywood so you could hit the groove side hard with a hammer and not damage. But these boards went together smoothly without needing to bang them in.
Did you prefinish the interior surface before installing, or leave it raw to finish later?
I’m this case, it’s completely unfinished. I have installed pre finished with good results and time saved
great looking barn. what state are you all located in ? Are you a contractor? I just found your videos and going thru to watch them all. I am in NC.
outdoorcountryboy forlife glad to hear it! We are in NC also. We are a custom home builder and have a cabinet shop just north of Siler City. Welcome aboard!
@@HeirloomBuilders OMG, thats to funny. Im in Carthage NC. Id like to talk to you about building a house. send me an email and I'll send you my phone number. outdoorcountryboy@gmail.com
I'm gonna need to google you. I'm in raeford.
You replied that Titebond II was used? Where, along the T&G? Did you apply any construction adhesive where the screws fasten into the rafter?
Yes, we applied glue to the surface of the rafter and the tongue and groove of each board
Titebond II for everything?
I would have suspected construction adhesive at the rafter.
Why do you use Titebond Ii on each tongue and groove? I thought you mentioned the wood needs to be able to expand/contract?
Thanks for the good video!
@@SubaruAficionado construction adhesive would also work, but it was much faster to have a single glue gun up on the roof. The structural
Engineer required this method for shear strength. Not sure how the wood will expand and contract if it’s all glued down, but it would seem to be the same problem with glued down hardwood flooring.?
Where did you purchase the lumber that cheap? The least expensive I've found is around $4. Thanks!
We made this video before lumber prices skyrocketed due to COVID. But we also have a big lumber supplier nearby: East coast lumber in Julian, NC.
Thank you.
Do you use a special glue for every tongue and groove?
Titebond II wood glue is great
This is a post and beam barn, not timber frame. The difference is the joinery. Good info about the tongue and groove stuff, esp regarding the expansion / contraction.
DavenH thanks! You are right about the joinery as well.
What size screws were you using?
They are the Starborn Structural F23 Multi-Purpose Flat Head Wood Screw 2-7/8": amzn.to/3hgwmF2
2 things...1 how do you join the roof peak, and 2. couldn't you justmake your own with a 2x4 and a table saw?
We rip the top course square, which closes the gap viewed from the interior, but leaves a small gap on the exterior. That way, we are able to get it in without struggling and the top gap is covered by roofing/underlayment. You could make this with 2x6’s on a table saw, but it would be very difficult to get the precision needed to have a clean easy installation. It would also require three passes with a dado blade and two passes with a bevel for the v groove.
Holy cow the same is now $2.85 a board foot for doug-fir
Lumber prices are out of control! 💰😳
$1.60/square foot? This guy must live in 2019... I can't find decent T&G decking for less than about $4 sqft right now... Just got a $6000 quote for 800 square feet of doug fir... Might be making our own from rough sawn lumber.
Yikes! Things are getting more expensive every day.
no! just use osb and buy real fake pine laminate flooring to the underside! jis kiddin! you're creating a beautiful piece of usable art. so glad you escaped Cal.
Just think 🤣 we did toss the idea of using t1-11 upside down as the roof sheathing. But we would have had to use a 24” oc rafter spacing
osb huh hahahahahahaha
Also you were very informative and the work looks great , But your video is subject is titled on COST of this T&G specifically, and you seem like a sharp fella, I am just a Farmville boy, But when 2x6 is $1.10 linear ft , how you come up with saying it cost $1.60 a sqft. ??? But Farmville math come up with $3.20 sqft for 2x6T&G if price is $1.10 linear ft. Not trying to be negative nancy but its exactly double what you claim. If I am wrong show me please. And I will still value your answers to my questions below. That Obama math messed up an entire generation.
Lumber is calculated by the board foot (1” thick material). 2x6 is 1.5” which is 1.5x the cost of board foot when measuring lineal feet