If you make a stand for a slag bucket under the grinder, you can just rotate the ax/hatchet head around and dip it into the bucket. That way you don’t have to pull the jig off the rod! Great design!
Always improving the shop! Never too fancy or expensive but always better and more efficient than before. If you stop getting better you stop being good! That's why your channel is unique and that is why I watch! Keep it up Tim
It seems like a good jig. The only thing I could add is to make sure you use some blue loctite on all the bolts. You don't want it to slowly move once you have it fully adjusted for that particular axe run. Adjustable jigs are great only if they stay exactly where they were adjusted to.
For cooling the axe down in water, could you do a bucket under the 2 pivot posts, and then when the axe is on the left pivot you could rotate it counter clockwise and dip it in, and then swing it back up clockwise. taking it off might just be faster 🤷♂️
This is what I was thinking as well. Tim could fab a trough so he could dunk the axe head on either side. Add a tab so the axe would only dunk to a certain depth and could just sit there to cool hands free while changing belts.
I really appreciate the substantial time and effort that you put into making not only this awesome metal working content, but the production values as well. The lighting is great! Really love the light creation vids too. Okay. Carry on.
Nice! Maybe use a drill to taper the outside edges of the hole in the bushings so it is easier to slide on to the pins? Might make things easier for cooling and you don't have to worry about losing index like you would with puling the axe head off the jig.
I would add set pins to the joints on the swivel/adjustment arm joints, to ensure that if the screw comes loose you don't lose your set position. I.E. after perfecting the adjustment, drill a small hole next to the pivot screw to insert another screw or pin to lock it in place.
Hey Tim, you may want to add something to deflect the sparks and grinding dust away from the pins and bushings. After a while of running your jig over it you will end up sanding down the pins and bushings and you'll lose the stability you were talking about. Thanks for the video! :)
Thanks for the video Tim.... I had an idea for cooling the axe while sharpening. If the axe can swing all the way down, you could make a "long" water container so you don't even need to take the axe nor the contrapment off. You can just swing it around up or down. I'm not sure I describe my idea I see in my head correctly. 🙂
I'd be willing to bet money that Tim played with Lego blocks, as a kid. Not the confused furries and drag queens on parade Lego blocks, but the astronaut and race car driver type of Lego blocks.
I think adding some scales and adjustment screws might make this more usefull. If you know anything about fusion you should be able to put togeter an ax geometry calculator so you can get the settings and a model of the ax. If you’d like help with that let me know.
Probably some sort of spark deflector would be good so it's not blowing all that abrasive grinding dust onto the shaft and those bushings. I could see the whole thing getting floppy over time otherwise.
I think to help with keeping the blade cool, adding a set screw system to allow for the bottom hinge point to articulate between the point needed for grinding and a run of water hung off the side of the axe grinding arm?
Rotation stops on either side so you can stop grinding precisely. By over-rotating your ax head past the sides of the belt, you are rounding the points at the top and bottom of the cutting edge....
Awesome clever contraption 👍 I think you could possibly remove one segment of the articulated thingy (and possibly make one of the remain ones a touch lomger) and still keep the same level of adjustability with one bolt less to manage. Anyway, you probably won't fully retune this everydayn so might no be worth the time invested to change this 😅
The vise that you used in this video seems to need quite a bit of revamping in order to not let things slip so easily. I mean, it’s been that way for years. How come you don’t fix the jaws?
Overall, that is awesome. Personally, I think you have too much going on with the multi-link adjustment piece and that cold be simplified a little. I mean, don't get me wrong, it works. I just think you could simplify it some.
Timothy, great work as always. Hey! Do you know if any 'Alone' participants have ever used one of your hatchets or axes for their time on the show? Btw: I like this format of video you're doing now.
I would say that the belt caving in as you push the axe's edge to it can introduce a lot of variability. There are two approaches that come to mind: 1. You're fine with a constant bevel profile and thus you create a specific platen behind the belt (flat or concave). 2. You want the belt flex for a flexible method of edge grinding but want finely controlled "feed", so you add an adjuster to the sliding rods (probably a nut or something) to limit how much the axe mount feeds into the belt.
The quality of your videos have increased 10 fold over the last 12 months. Well done.
If you make a stand for a slag bucket under the grinder, you can just rotate the ax/hatchet head around and dip it into the bucket. That way you don’t have to pull the jig off the rod! Great design!
Always improving the shop!
Never too fancy or expensive but always better and more efficient than before.
If you stop getting better you stop being good!
That's why your channel is unique and that is why I watch! Keep it up Tim
It seems like a good jig. The only thing I could add is to make sure you use some blue loctite on all the bolts. You don't want it to slowly move once you have it fully adjusted for that particular axe run. Adjustable jigs are great only if they stay exactly where they were adjusted to.
For cooling the axe down in water, could you do a bucket under the 2 pivot posts, and then when the axe is on the left pivot you could rotate it counter clockwise and dip it in, and then swing it back up clockwise. taking it off might just be faster 🤷♂️
That’s such a good idea! I will definitely look into this idea. Thank you!
This is what I was thinking as well. Tim could fab a trough so he could dunk the axe head on either side. Add a tab so the axe would only dunk to a certain depth and could just sit there to cool hands free while changing belts.
Or maybe just use a wet cloth/sponge - might be easier than trying to dip it.
Thinking the same thing! Awesome jig Tim.
That will really make your grinds consistent from axe to axe.
I really appreciate the substantial time and effort that you put into making not only this awesome metal working content, but the production values as well. The lighting is great! Really love the light creation vids too. Okay. Carry on.
Nice! Maybe use a drill to taper the outside edges of the hole in the bushings so it is easier to slide on to the pins? Might make things easier for cooling and you don't have to worry about losing index like you would with puling the axe head off the jig.
Yes, and maybe round over the pins even more
Awesome. When you make the bushings, you have the reins of the tolerances.
I would add set pins to the joints on the swivel/adjustment arm joints, to ensure that if the screw comes loose you don't lose your set position. I.E. after perfecting the adjustment, drill a small hole next to the pivot screw to insert another screw or pin to lock it in place.
Hey Tim, you may want to add something to deflect the sparks and grinding dust away from the pins and bushings. After a while of running your jig over it you will end up sanding down the pins and bushings and you'll lose the stability you were talking about. Thanks for the video! :)
Thanks for the video Tim.... I had an idea for cooling the axe while sharpening. If the axe can swing all the way down, you could make a "long" water container so you don't even need to take the axe nor the contrapment off. You can just swing it around up or down. I'm not sure I describe my idea I see in my head correctly. 🙂
Thank you for making and sharing another enjoyable video of your work Tim!
I'd be willing to bet money that Tim played with Lego blocks, as a kid. Not the confused furries and drag queens on parade Lego blocks, but the astronaut and race car driver type of Lego blocks.
It's a rare fellow that does not have an axe to grind.
you should weld the nuts to the arm that holds the axe billet, so you can tighten the joint with hex key alone
I was thinking some kind of wingnut system so you don't always have to go searching for the hex key
Had me worried with the lathe for a minute. Glad you said "turn it manually".
I think adding some scales and adjustment screws might make this more usefull. If you know anything about fusion you should be able to put togeter an ax geometry calculator so you can get the settings and a model of the ax. If you’d like help with that let me know.
I loved the fabrication process. We get to see your thought process as you go.
A very neat jig Tim!
That's a wild setup! Well made!
Nice Setup!! Should save a LOT of Time!!
You should add a cooling line constantly dripping
Your need another one of those home made TIM lights over that grinder!!!
That actually would look sooo good!
I've never even been close to forging anything in my life but I love your videos. Immaculate vibes with great pacing and beautiful results.
Probably some sort of spark deflector would be good so it's not blowing all that abrasive grinding dust onto the shaft and those bushings. I could see the whole thing getting floppy over time otherwise.
I think to help with keeping the blade cool, adding a set screw system to allow for the bottom hinge point to articulate between the point needed for grinding and a run of water hung off the side of the axe grinding arm?
Brilliant!
An Awesome Build Sir !
Very interesting. Nice work
Anything that saves time and increases repeatability is always good. Always like the jigs and fixtures vids 👍
Great to see you thinking outside the box and creating a new jig for the purpose 😁🥳
Use a paint pen and mark the 3 joints. you can see if they slowlyl move over time. Use different colors as a quick guide if you have different setups.
Nice fixture!
You should make a spark diverter so those sparks aren't landing on your guide rods. Those fine filings will chew through the bushing.
That’s a good idea, as I really don’t want to make more bushings!
Just thinking that some kind of screw stop to control the depth of grind will help keep the grind centered
You did not miss anything.
Rad build timmer! No suggestions per se as thats a new thing to see.
Legend
Rotation stops on either side so you can stop grinding precisely. By over-rotating your ax head past the sides of the belt, you are rounding the points at the top and bottom of the cutting edge....
That’s an interesting idea I didn’t think about. I’ll keep that in mind as I run the first couple axes through on it. Thank you!
Pretty cool only thing that would freak me out is having the blade pointing into the direction of cut incase it dug into the belt 😅 cool tho 👍🏻
Awesome clever contraption 👍
I think you could possibly remove one segment of the articulated thingy (and possibly make one of the remain ones a touch lomger) and still keep the same level of adjustability with one bolt less to manage. Anyway, you probably won't fully retune this everydayn so might no be worth the time invested to change this 😅
I was thinking the same thing, two links instead of three.
That axe head doesn't look like scrap.
You should add a handel to that arm so you can grabb it better
Great video and learn a lot. But can you add some light so we all can see better
Tim, have you ever seen a pin jig used by axe grinders to grind racing axes? Hit me up if you want to know more.
Was the bushings getting hit by the sparks? Looks like it and that can't be good. Awesome setup man.
Why not use the die grinder to to cut your slots? You used it to cut your arced slots on the lathe.
Why aren't you using a CoolMist with that??
No need to take it off for cooling, won't damage the temper.
How about a mister for cooling?
The vise that you used in this video seems to need quite a bit of revamping in order to not let things slip so easily. I mean, it’s been that way for years. How come you don’t fix the jaws?
Overall, that is awesome. Personally, I think you have too much going on with the multi-link adjustment piece and that cold be simplified a little. I mean, don't get me wrong, it works. I just think you could simplify it some.
👍👍👍
Timothy, great work as always. Hey! Do you know if any 'Alone' participants have ever used one of your hatchets or axes for their time on the show? Btw: I like this format of video you're doing now.
👍
Just a quick question: Where the blade contacts the belt, would a backing platen improve repeatability of grind?
What happened to your mill? You had a Bridgeport at the old shop
i was hoping to find an easy way to set up a website for my small business... can anyone think of something i could use to do that?
hey tim. got a question. Why dont you have any windows in your workshop?
😮😊
Yo this setup is sexy.
👋🏼
I would say that the belt caving in as you push the axe's edge to it can introduce a lot of variability. There are two approaches that come to mind:
1. You're fine with a constant bevel profile and thus you create a specific platen behind the belt (flat or concave).
2. You want the belt flex for a flexible method of edge grinding but want finely controlled "feed", so you add an adjuster to the sliding rods (probably a nut or something) to limit how much the axe mount feeds into the belt.
an axe
An axe… ? Or am i wrong ?
For anyone wanting to build this.. just get a used treadmill for twenty or thirty dollen and fab up some wheel holders.