I wouldn’t say I’m a car guy but this site has given me such an appreciation for the art of engine building. Thanks Hagerty for the valuable explanations of why and how!
Davin, your precision knowledge, and attention to detail is actually a bit mind-boggling. This is gonna be a sweet, sweet engine! Thanks, Davin and crew! ✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
Yes, sort of, but the biggest issue is when you start increasing spring pressures to accommodate the higher rpm of a performance cam. The stiffer springs is what usually pulls the studs.
The duration for a particular cam design is the same between flat and roller camshafts. The profiles require different shapes because the point contact changes due to the radius of the follower. A roller camshaft looks more extreme than a flat because of this. You need to measure valve lift and duration at the valve, not comparing the profiles side by side.
Getting a rough lift number is easy, use some calipers and measure the longest part and the shortest part of the lobe and subtract. This works pretty good in my circle of car buddies, we wrench on early water-cooled vws 75-84. In 81 they came up with an "emissions" cam with like .387 of lift ,but the early one had .405. Not alot of difference, but it's free power if you have one and your engine is apart it's an easy swap.
@@ellieprice363 yeah but you gotta start with a cam to push those rockers, and if you're doing a cam swap it's a quick way to see if the lift is different. Only thing the rockers are gonna change is if you went from a 1.5 to a 1.6 or something ,you just gained that much more lift, the base cam lift is still the same.
A Roller Cam has more ‘meat under the curve’ compared to a flat tappet cam of the same duration as the roller cam can have steeper ramp rates. I’m a fan of hydro roller cams for real street cars.
@@bigal878 A short duration roller can even have what’s called an inverted flank, ie making the cam lobe peanut shaped. It makes the lifter stay longer on the base circle, but still gives more duration near peak lift.
I had seen engines with rounded cams (e.g. Ford Modular V8s) and assumed they reflected new ideas on how valves should work. Now I know which new ideas.
You should start a classroom page pertaining to each part of the assembly so that it can be categorically searched and or referenced. It would look much better in terms of functionality opposed to say, dragging out a video for mullah lol. Always good vids gents.
Never realized there is an actual tool designed for installing freeze plugs until now, I was taught and have always simply used a close fitting impact socket and leather mallet to install them. Learn something new every day.
As a general rule, I only install the rear cam plug after the cam thrust clearance has been set. That way you can measure with your dial indicator form the tail of the cam. Virtually installing that plug is at the end of engine assembly.
Man I would give anything to find somebody who pays this much attention to detail. I have a great engine builder / machinists who does mechanically good work, but the concept of perfectly taping everything off to make it look gorgeous like this engine does it’s just not in there vocabulary.
Are you teasing us that this small block could end up in the Chevy pick up? Could not help but notice it sitting back there with its hood up! That would really bring it to life.
Hey Davin et all, love the show and the content. Care to share why you prefer your cam bearing position? Not nit picking, I would just like to know😃 Also here in Oz 🇦🇺 what you call cotter pins are split pins, cotter pins are a ramped pin like you would attach a pushbike pedal to the crank. Just sayin 😅
Davin l love your show ! Just wondering why you went with a roller cam & roller rockers with a stock 2 barrel intake and carb. Also the restricted cast iron exhaust manifolds. The roller cam kit & roller rockers cost $500 to $600 !!!! You could have used a hydraulic flat tappit 350HP 327 cam, dual plane aluminium intake with a 600 cfm Holley and a set of headers. This combination would be a lot more fun to drive and cost less money to build ................
*mentions not saying “relative” all the time* Me: “Hark! The Davin has become sentient!” 😂 I love you folks too much to ever say anything about that, but it’s always made me twitch! (I’m a copy editor; I can’t help it).
I do agree with David's preference with hydralic roller cam. However, I can still get variable duration lifters for a hydralic flat tappet cam, someihing I can't do with hydralic roller cam. The would allow me to run a larger cam, and have it act like a smaller cam.
Depending on engine, yes, they do make a variable duration lifter for hydraulic roller cams. You can get them for LS engines, and what ever other engine you may adapt LS lifters to.
I love the solid info in these videos... I have to ask... keeping under preforming small valves... and installing a roller cam?!?!?. I'm trying to find the logic. A real mis match.
Good video I’ve always wondered about testing Springs prior to assembly in the context that why wouldn’t you put them in an oven and test them hot bearing in mind hot metal is softer room temperature seems to be best case scenario surely they’re running at 100° c in the motor why wouldn’t you put him in an oven at 100° C and then test em…..
I suspect it is a matter of implementation. They weren't a weak point in the SBC TPI, 305 and 350 Vortec, 5.2/5.9 Magnum, and late SBF. I'm not sure what those had that the LS and Gen 3 Hemi don't have.
They’re the weak point because they use collapsible lifters for the AFM/DoD/DFM and MDS systems. Look at a 99-06 LQ4/9 or similar, full hydraulic roller, but no collapsible AFM lifters, bulletproof reliable. Ever notice how you see plenty of 5.7’s, 5.3’s a 6.2’s eat lifters but the HD 6.0 gasser in the Chevy 2500/3500’s don’t? The HD 6.0 doesn’t have AFM
Are you allowed to share the specs of you custom grinds? I always thought it would be great. Many people go for the Jeep 4.6 stroker, but not all cam companies say which grind works best in one. I don't know if there was ever a hydraulic roller cam optimized for a 283 in a heavy vehicle
@@ldnwholesale8552 Yes, that is true. However, many companies will sell a cam grind that works well with a common combination. I think of how many guys get cams from Comp, Isky, Howards, etc. I have heard Comp should be avoided, rumor has it, they have the most troublesome of the new flat lifter cams.
Davin, you didn't go over the cam specs, and also your decision to go with roller instead of flat tappet. In another life I used Delta cams exclusively and didn't know they offered roller cams. Also, with supply chain issues roller lifters have been hard to come by can you tell us the brand you used?? THANKS!!
@@PCMenten Following on with roller lifters, because they require higher spring pressure to keep them in contact with the cam lobes, would it be accurate to say that they are better for higher RPM builds? And are they a better option for higher HP as well?
Yes they do. Though that also depends on the rest of the engine. On this pov pack engine it should give more mid range grunt but more rpm? Probably not.
Core Plugs, out of a hundred frozen engine blocks that I have encountered as a tech none of them popped the CORE PLUGS out. I have seen poorly installed ones blown out from over heating a couple of times. I live in Oregon.
@@TripleWhopperWithCheese somewhere along the line somebody called them freeze plugs and it kind of stuck. But every engine block I've seen that had water in it when it froze the block broke and the plug stayed in place.
Have you guys perhaps got a development program going for mechanics that for instance can tear down an engine, clean and reassemble it but don't know anything of the in between. I have watched a few videos from Eastern countries like India and other countries around it who do what I described. They re-use the old gaskets, rings, etc when re-assembling and they for instance pull out all the pistons and throw them in a tub with cleaning fluid, not noting which piston came out which sleeve. No measurements of cranks, sleeves, etc are done. It would be wonderful if these guys can be taught how to do it right. They have the enthusiasm but not the knowledge. Maybe something to ponder? Maybe offer scholarships to the brightest of them?
In some of those countries, they aren't doing things the wrong way because they don't know the right way. They do those things because they can't afford the right way, or is too cheap to pay for the right way. Other times those vehicles might not be worth much, so a quick save is all they deserve. The rest of the vehicle is on the verge of falling apart anyway. Other times, the person who is selling a used car doesn't want you to know. I have encountered people who got ripped off when they bought a used car with a "Recently rebuilt engine." All the last person did was run a quick hone through the engine and fit rings. The head got a set of new valve seals and nothing else. A set of standard bearings may have been rolled in, without measuring the crank first. The bore and piston were probably beyond their limit, but they don't want anyone to know it. The person will find out a few months after the sale, when their car is burning oil fast. Hack jobs exist all around the world because of this. I live in the USA, and was stuck doing them, sadly.
Please clarify the cam bearing hole location, you said 8 o clock when the block is upside down, but the picture shows 4 o clock. So are we Aft Looking Forward 8 o clock?
Cause now that I look, it seems that the front cam bearing is at 4 o clock... Forward looking Aft. But, your sharpie mark at 7:14 is 8 o clock Forward Looking Aft
They should make roller lifters with a roller ball like roll on deodorant wouldn’t have to worry about spinning like a flat tappet and those needle bearings failing on the roller
Well that is certainly the right way to install a hydraulic roller cam in a small block Chevy ... with stock heads. Not sure why you'd want to do that. Unless the camshaft company pays your bills.
Im on rollers for life bec flat tappet will wipe out your cam it your car sits to long or it's cold out or you don't sump for a second etc 🤣 video on my channel
@@dougooley5915, it’s fun to watch the correct way to do a lot of this engine build. A machine shop would do this work if you don’t have the tools or knowledge, sometimes it’s not worth the cost of some of these tools for a one off build.
The term small block and big block refers to the amount of space in between each cylinder, like the thickness of the cylinder walls, affects how much you can bore over spec and what not if I'm not mistaken
The motor Davin is working is considered a "small block" Chevrolet V8... later iterations of GM's V8 certainly blur the lines between "small" and "big", but the '50s when the first version was designed it WAS small.
In the aftermarket at least GM still service the bog block. Which is longer, taller and has far bigger bores and strokes. They also still do no end of small block stuff. I will never understand the love affairs with LS engines. Yes they are good but by te time you buy all the conversion parts to fit a used LS you could have built a healthy small block which fits in the car
Learned more about cam types and lifters than i have from any other video. Thank you.
I wouldn’t say I’m a car guy but this site has given me such an appreciation for the art of engine building.
Thanks Hagerty for the valuable explanations of why and how!
we are in the same boat ive watched a number of channels but Davin and the guys at Haggerty are the best!! personable top notch and fun to watch !
The camera work is next level
Davin, your precision knowledge, and attention to detail is actually a bit mind-boggling. This is gonna be a sweet, sweet engine! Thanks, Davin and crew! ✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
Hey Davin, I learn so much from all of your videos. Thanks for continuing to make the quality content
Love what you guys are doing!!!-always look forward to the next show!!-
Davin, FYI freeze plugs and core plugs are also known as welch plugs. Just depends where you are in the world......
We call them butt plugs in San Francisco
Damn that is a lot more care than i have ever taken cuddos to you for the meticulous work and showing how it should be done
Depending on your heads and how much lift you have in your cam set up might need too remove the pressed on rocker studs and upgrade to thread studs
Yes, sort of, but the biggest issue is when you start increasing spring pressures to accommodate the higher rpm of a performance cam. The stiffer springs is what usually pulls the studs.
👍👏like always thank you Davin and the team
The duration for a particular cam design is the same between flat and roller camshafts. The profiles require different shapes because the point contact changes due to the radius of the follower. A roller camshaft looks more extreme than a flat because of this. You need to measure valve lift and duration at the valve, not comparing the profiles side by side.
Getting a rough lift number is easy, use some calipers and measure the longest part and the shortest part of the lobe and subtract.
This works pretty good in my circle of car buddies, we wrench on early water-cooled vws 75-84.
In 81 they came up with an "emissions" cam with like .387 of lift ,but the early one had .405.
Not alot of difference, but it's free power if you have one and your engine is apart it's an easy swap.
@@MrTheHillfolk Valve lift on pushrod engines is also determined by the rocker arm ratio.
@@ellieprice363 yeah but you gotta start with a cam to push those rockers, and if you're doing a cam swap it's a quick way to see if the lift is different.
Only thing the rockers are gonna change is if you went from a 1.5 to a 1.6 or something ,you just gained that much more lift, the base cam lift is still the same.
A Roller Cam has more ‘meat under the curve’ compared to a flat tappet cam of the same duration as the roller cam can have steeper ramp rates.
I’m a fan of hydro roller cams for real street cars.
@@bigal878 A short duration roller can even have what’s called an inverted flank, ie making the cam lobe peanut shaped. It makes the lifter stay longer on the base circle, but still gives more duration near peak lift.
Hi, collets not keepers here in the UK but they still fly LOL, some of us in uk still use sticks with rubber cups for grinding in too. Mike
Nobody cares what you do in the UK.
Installing the cam first is the correct order. It bothers me to no end when I see other videos of people installing the cam second!
Agreed, cam goes in first, Then the crank. If nothing else cam is far easier to guide in without the crank in the way
I had seen engines with rounded cams (e.g. Ford Modular V8s) and assumed they reflected new ideas on how valves should work. Now I know which new ideas.
I bet she’s going to run as good as she looks.
Can’t wait for the dyno pulls!
My dad, a torpedo machinist at Keyport, called them tappets too.
You should start a classroom page pertaining to each part of the assembly so that it can be categorically searched and or referenced. It would look much better in terms of functionality opposed to say, dragging out a video for mullah lol. Always good vids gents.
getting fancy with the probe lense cant wait
Never realized there is an actual tool designed for installing freeze plugs until now, I was taught and have always simply used a close fitting impact socket and leather mallet to install them. Learn something new every day.
Use what works. A special tool ,like this one, isn't always necessary, IMO. Plus, the cost isn't worth it either.
Pretty much anything will work. Just remember though, in an engine shop, we're slammin in hudreds or more a year. Thats a lot striking on our sockets.
As a general rule, I only install the rear cam plug after the cam thrust clearance has been set. That way you can measure with your dial indicator form the tail of the cam. Virtually installing that plug is at the end of engine assembly.
Man I would give anything to find somebody who pays this much attention to detail. I have a great engine builder / machinists who does mechanically good work, but the concept of perfectly taping everything off to make it look gorgeous like this engine does it’s just not in there vocabulary.
We need a dyno video on that jeep 4.6 stroker!
The right stuff is awesome I use nothing else anymore! Matter of fact I tried it out after you mentioned it in another video y’all have a great day!
Man I run a 283 in my altered. Hope yours runs just as good!
Are you teasing us that this small block could end up in the Chevy pick up? Could not help but notice it sitting back there with its hood up! That would really bring it to life.
Thanks King
You can also call them frost plugs,that what we call them in Manitoba.
Nobody cares what you call them in Canada.
In every stock GM engine that I have ever torn down the hole in the cam bearing lined up with the hole in the block and was not clocked.
8i8
I would think 180 degrees from where the oil comes in would be best?
He reminds me of Colonel Decker from the A Team. I mean that as a compliment :)
Hey Davin et all, love the show and the content.
Care to share why you prefer your cam bearing position? Not nit picking, I would just like to know😃
Also here in Oz 🇦🇺 what you call cotter pins are split pins, cotter pins are a ramped pin like you would attach a pushbike pedal to the crank.
Just sayin 😅
Hi! What to do when the valves protrude slightly from the head?
The correct answer is always solid roller setup and proper maintenance on it 😉
Davin l love your show ! Just wondering why you went with a roller cam & roller rockers with a stock 2 barrel intake and carb. Also the restricted cast iron exhaust manifolds. The roller cam kit & roller rockers cost $500 to $600 !!!! You could have used a hydraulic flat tappit 350HP 327 cam, dual plane aluminium intake with a 600 cfm Holley and a set of headers. This combination would be a lot more fun to drive and cost less money to build ................
*mentions not saying “relative” all the time*
Me: “Hark! The Davin has become sentient!” 😂
I love you folks too much to ever say anything about that, but it’s always made me twitch! (I’m a copy editor; I can’t help it).
Great video! Can I send you my 327? Stephen
I do agree with David's preference with hydralic roller cam. However, I can still get variable duration lifters for a hydralic flat tappet cam, someihing I can't do with hydralic roller cam. The would allow me to run a larger cam, and have it act like a smaller cam.
Depending on engine, yes, they do make a variable duration lifter for hydraulic roller cams. You can get them for LS engines, and what ever other engine you may adapt LS lifters to.
Hey Davin, how about doing a rebuild of Olds 455 big block engine in the future.
I love the solid info in these videos... I have to ask... keeping under preforming small valves... and installing a roller cam?!?!?. I'm trying to find the logic. A real mis match.
Good video I’ve always wondered about testing Springs prior to assembly in the context that why wouldn’t you put them in an oven and test them hot bearing in mind hot metal is softer
room temperature seems to be best case scenario
surely they’re running at 100° c in the motor why wouldn’t you put him in an oven at 100° C and then test em…..
Burns your fingers.
Thought roller cam and lifters were the week point for long run in Chevy LS and newer Chrysler hemi engines
I suspect it is a matter of implementation. They weren't a weak point in the SBC TPI, 305 and 350 Vortec, 5.2/5.9 Magnum, and late SBF. I'm not sure what those had that the LS and Gen 3 Hemi don't have.
They’re the weak point because they use collapsible lifters for the AFM/DoD/DFM and MDS systems. Look at a 99-06 LQ4/9 or similar, full hydraulic roller, but no collapsible AFM lifters, bulletproof reliable. Ever notice how you see plenty of 5.7’s, 5.3’s a 6.2’s eat lifters but the HD 6.0 gasser in the Chevy 2500/3500’s don’t? The HD 6.0 doesn’t have AFM
Are you allowed to share the specs of you custom grinds? I always thought it would be great. Many people go for the Jeep 4.6 stroker, but not all cam companies say which grind works best in one. I don't know if there was ever a hydraulic roller cam optimized for a 283 in a heavy vehicle
Cams are to suit the application. A it is seldom ever for two engines to be the same.
@@ldnwholesale8552 Yes, that is true. However, many companies will sell a cam grind that works well with a common combination. I think of how many guys get cams from Comp, Isky, Howards, etc. I have heard Comp should be avoided, rumor has it, they have the most troublesome of the new flat lifter cams.
Can you please build an old school lazy v6 with a high duration cam, let say 300 duration or there about. PLEASE
Why dont YOU do it you lazy shine
Press-in rocker studs?
I’ve seen them pinned before but threaded is best. 🕶
Davin, you didn't go over the cam specs, and also your decision to go with roller instead of flat tappet. In another life I used Delta cams exclusively and didn't know they offered roller cams. Also, with supply chain issues roller lifters have been hard to come by can you tell us the brand you used?? THANKS!!
Im new to learning about engines and especially pushrod ones so sorry if this is a stupid question but do the rollers allow higher RPM also?
No. Roller lifters are heavier and these roller lifters are hydraulic, so they are even heavier. Good question.
@@PCMenten thank you
@@PCMenten Following on with roller lifters, because they require higher spring pressure to keep them in contact with the cam lobes, would it be accurate to say that they are better for higher RPM builds? And are they a better option for higher HP as well?
Roller lifters and cams absolutely allow for higher RPM, even more with solid roller lifters.
Yes they do. Though that also depends on the rest of the engine. On this pov pack engine it should give more mid range grunt but more rpm? Probably not.
You didn't give the full open spring pressure, which anything over 300 psi requires screw in rocker studs.
Suppose we don't have a spring tester. Is there a reliable "at home" way of doin it?
No working in the garage today, actually, not even going to go outside today, it's going to 118 today!
Core Plugs, out of a hundred frozen engine blocks that I have encountered as a tech none of them popped the CORE PLUGS out. I have seen poorly installed ones blown out from over heating a couple of times. I live in Oregon.
Because they are just plugs for the casting and have nothing to do with freezing.
@@TripleWhopperWithCheese somewhere along the line somebody called them freeze plugs and it kind of stuck. But every engine block I've seen that had water in it when it froze the block broke and the plug stayed in place.
@@marlobreding7402 That's because the plug has nothing to do with freezing blocks. It's only purpose is to plug the casting holes.
@@TripleWhopperWithCheese exactly why I called them Core plugs.
Have you guys perhaps got a development program going for mechanics that for instance can tear down an engine, clean and reassemble it but don't know anything of the in between. I have watched a few videos from Eastern countries like India and other countries around it who do what I described. They re-use the old gaskets, rings, etc when re-assembling and they for instance pull out all the pistons and throw them in a tub with cleaning fluid, not noting which piston came out which sleeve. No measurements of cranks, sleeves, etc are done. It would be wonderful if these guys can be taught how to do it right. They have the enthusiasm but not the knowledge. Maybe something to ponder? Maybe offer scholarships to the brightest of them?
In some of those countries, they aren't doing things the wrong way because they don't know the right way. They do those things because they can't afford the right way, or is too cheap to pay for the right way. Other times those vehicles might not be worth much, so a quick save is all they deserve. The rest of the vehicle is on the verge of falling apart anyway.
Other times, the person who is selling a used car doesn't want you to know. I have encountered people who got ripped off when they bought a used car with a "Recently rebuilt engine." All the last person did was run a quick hone through the engine and fit rings. The head got a set of new valve seals and nothing else. A set of standard bearings may have been rolled in, without measuring the crank first. The bore and piston were probably beyond their limit, but they don't want anyone to know it. The person will find out a few months after the sale, when their car is burning oil fast.
Hack jobs exist all around the world because of this. I live in the USA, and was stuck doing them, sadly.
You guys have a ton of specialized cameras. The one telescoping down the head looks expensive.
Whatever happened to the 440 build ????
Davin and Hagerty are a match made in heaven, or wherever you get your glory from.
Videolar türkçe olsa süper olacak :)) Kolay gelsin ustacım 🤚
😎👍
Please clarify the cam bearing hole location, you said 8 o clock when the block is upside down, but the picture shows 4 o clock. So are we Aft Looking Forward 8 o clock?
Cause now that I look, it seems that the front cam bearing is at 4 o clock... Forward looking Aft. But, your sharpie mark at 7:14 is 8 o clock Forward Looking Aft
Would this be part of “blueprinting” an engine?
No such thing as blueprinting.
Question for this audience, is what Davin does here on the Redline Rebuild, what at one time was called "Blue Printing"?
I believe it is. Also, proper measurements before assembly never hurts.
roller always roller
9:14 what is that tool? Looks like it says 'shooter' on it?
Its a camera you dummy.
They should make roller lifters with a roller ball like roll on deodorant wouldn’t have to worry about spinning like a flat tappet and those needle bearings failing on the roller
Plastic won't work.
So... Did Ben's cylinder head need to be rebuilt? :)
A cam & no port matching i don't get it
Haha, relative
Well that is certainly the right way to install a hydraulic roller cam in a small block Chevy ... with stock heads. Not sure why you'd want to do that. Unless the camshaft company pays your bills.
I thought the same. A mis match
Im on rollers for life bec flat tappet will wipe out your cam it your car sits to long or it's cold out or you don't sump for a second etc 🤣 video on my channel
Compete BS.
:43 "right?"
*'bye*
If you feel the need to keep the listener's attention by asking for approval, maybe it's time to be a bit more assertive.
When are you banana heads going to finish Snowball's race car????!!!!!
Lots of us liked the build and some nut "canceled" the series. Bad decision.
too complicated!
for me
@@dougooley5915, it’s fun to watch the correct way to do a lot of this engine build. A machine shop would do this work if you don’t have the tools or knowledge, sometimes it’s not worth the cost of some of these tools for a one off build.
Hey, what's going on with the old Ford Dirt tracker. This other garbage is boring. If you've qui t on it, please tell us. That way we can unsubscribe.
Why do people still call it "small block". Is there such a thing as a big block anymore? Only americans can call a "six lidurh modurh" small block.
The term small block and big block refers to the amount of space in between each cylinder, like the thickness of the cylinder walls, affects how much you can bore over spec and what not if I'm not mistaken
The motor Davin is working is considered a "small block" Chevrolet V8... later iterations of GM's V8 certainly blur the lines between "small" and "big", but the '50s when the first version was designed it WAS small.
Because that's what this engine is... A Gen I small block chevy, came in variations from 4.3L to 6.6L.
Big and Small are nouns in this use, not adjectives.
In the aftermarket at least GM still service the bog block. Which is longer, taller and has far bigger bores and strokes. They also still do no end of small block stuff.
I will never understand the love affairs with LS engines. Yes they are good but by te time you buy all the conversion parts to fit a used LS you could have built a healthy small block which fits in the car