How to Glue a Mitered edge - Drop Front - Waterfall Leg on any Stone or Granite. (So Easy)
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- čas přidán 20. 03. 2021
- In this video I show the easiest way to glue a Mitered Edge - Drop Front - Waterfall Leg on any stone or granite. This method is hand-down the best way to glue these miters in my opinion.
Akemi Platinum 4.0 Epoxy
amzn.to/3Uz4sFg
A couple key tips when cutting and glueing.
1. Cut your miters at 44 degrees. This will give you a extremely tight front seam. It will also give the glue a place to go when pushing the front edge to get perfect 90 degrees.
2. When applying the blue tape, place it as close to perpendicular to the miters edge as possible. If the tape is angled, there is a greater chance of the tape ripping when you go fold it back over. You get a stronger hinge when the tape is 90 degrees to the miter.
3. My recommendation is using Akemi Platinum for the seam glue. This epoxy works amazing on all granite, marbles, engineered quartz, marble and natural quartzites. It is crazy strong and almost never fails. I've never had one fail yet.
Please Share if you like and please subscribe if you have a min. It really helps the channel and it helps my videos get a bigger reach. I really appreciate it.
Music is "Pancakes" by Dylan Sitts which can be found @ EpidemicSound.com Just an amazing website for creator background music. I love this site.
As always, Thanks for watching and see you again soon. More videos to come. - Jak na to + styl
That looks amazing! A true professional!
Thanks man. It means allot.
Wonderful job❤
Bravo !
Your vídeos help me a lot! I work with granite countertops in Fort Myers
Thank You. Awesome to hear. I used to use all types of clamps and gadgets. You can't beat the blue tape trick.
Awesome video!! Nice machine too! 😎
Thanks Park. Much appreciated. And yes, you guys make some killer equipment. I've used multiple bridge saws, the Pro Edge, and Fastback over the years. All top notch machines. Would recommend to anyone looking for stone gear. Thanks again.
nice job... with the pattern matching.:)
🤫🤭🤭
Subscribed. Singapore
Jay GREAT VIDEO! I run a Stone Industry Process Mastermind Group I would love to use your Video as a Demo to Share with the Group about how to Document Processes in their Shops.
This is a radiator cover?! That's wild! Great work
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Excellent video. This isn't anything that I am going to do on my own. I just came here to see the art involved in getting this done.
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Thanks very Much. It is greatly appreciated.
Such as great idea... Thank you so much you help me a lot … can I use same this glue to gluing within same way for porcelain slabs? thank you
This is my go-to for porcelain slabs as well. And thanks for watching. I'm glad to help. Have a great weekend.
When putting the miter lam down I’ve seen some people put more tape on top of the existing tape and pulling the tape up more for security just in case the lam to heavy . I’m still learning to put this together.I haven’t tried it but they way you show it looks simple but since the machine at my shop I’m not sure how they cut there 45• .but they usually sometimes grind it down .
Hello. You can put more tape if you want. The more - The safer you can say. Sometimes too, when I do a 18" or bigger mitered edges, I'll set up a wood block. Just incase the tape fails, the wood will catch the piece. One Important tip for you. Make sure tape is on straight or perpendicular to the mitered edge. Just like ripping tape off the roll. If you pull it at an angle, the tape will rip off the roll. If you try to pull straight, the tape will not rip. It is surprisingly strong when pulled straight.
Don't worry too much about your machines. I've always believed that a good hand fabricator is better to have than any CNC saw on the market. I have hand sanded tons of "bad saw cut" miters before. Spend the extra time before gluing. It will pay off in the end. After a couple, you get into a groove. It gets easier and easier every time.
it would of being great to see the actual joint up close on the 45 deg edge and along the waterfall edge
Sick video! We’ve been doing it like at my shop a couple years now and there’s this green tape our tool guy sold us, I think it’s just called epoxy green tape but it’ll hold a sink cutout it’s so strong and just wipes away w a bit of acetone. Either way works way better and stronger for those bigger skirts. Great video tho man!
Thanks a ton. Much appreciated. Is the tape similar to a duct tape or a painters tape?
Tell me about those slits cut into that one piece. Thanks
What’s your way of doing Quirke Miter edge?
What did you use to sand it down with?
I’m
Having a myter edge on my benchtop hoe much should I let it hang?
Hi nice video, could you tell me what kind of angle grinder did you get to clean up the edge glue? Is an air one? Thanks
In this video I used a air polisher. It is Alpha Brand. Great tools and has a water feed integrated into it.
How much did your bridgesaw run
Great Video. Will this method last for pool porcelain coping tiles 10 mm thickness? How many years lifespan do you think I would get in an outdoor pool? Thanks
Hello. The method would definitely work to get a nice seam, But not sure about the epoxy. At 10mm you're looking at about 3/8" of a seam joint. Not a lot holding it together. We do 1 1/4" thick material and not going to lie to you, I have seen seams fail due to water and full sun exposure. That's a tough question. Might be out of my wheelhouse. But Im sure you can find a pool guy on here that could steer you the right way. Sorry and Thanks.
Interesting way of doing it. Do you ever biscuit or rough the joint? I've had stuff split because the mitre is too smooth. Do you also get any side to side movement? These bad boys tend to get slippery with glue between.
I usually rough up the joint to give it extra mechanical bond. I use 8 hour epoxy, not polyester resin like shown in the video. Not as quick but gives you more working time on complex glue ups and sticks way better, especially to non porous materials like quartz and porcelain. Also longer lasting and more UV stable (polyester prone to discoloration, especially with lighter or more transparent colors).
Professor
Wow. How did you get the vents polished inside??
They look polished but they are not. I think It's because the black veins are so dark, It has the look of being polished. That is just a Water Jet cut edge on the inside. Thanks for watching and the comment. It really helps the channel.
Any suggestions how to turn this waterfall leg into an island extension, like and extended table?
I like the idea. But not sure how it could be done. Couple concerns - when those miters come off the saw, they are really sharp and chip very easily. second concern - you would need some kind of hinge mounted to the mitered edge area. A hinge strong edge to hold around 90lbs of stone leg when moving it up and down. And in order for the leg to flip up, the hinge would be mounted to the face of the countertop. Which might be a cool barn door style look. Some large black iron hinges routed into the stone faces.
Maybe the better route would be a separate countertop that slides into the leg under the main island top. This way you could get an extended island if needed. You could have it slide out 12"-14" without having to integrate steel supports underneath. Really cool idea though. Anything could be done. With the right amount of time and money. Sorry for the novel. hope this makes sense.
I have a wet electrical tile saw that can do mitre cuts. I thought of trying this to make marble accent table.
What is the minimum thickness material you recommend for mitre?
Hello. I would say 3/4" material. That is for a unbacked miter.
You can go thinner if you back the miter with extra material after yo glue it up.
where do you buy that blue ribbon? Here in Spain I can't find it
It is Blue Painters Tape. Any 3M or Scotch Painters tape will work. The only tape I've tried and don't like for this application is Duct Tape. It has too much flex to it. Doesn't get the seam tight enough. Hope this helps. Let me know.
Hi! How come you use a shim instead of a spatula? Just curious
Hello. A box of shims is pretty cheap. I have use spatulas in the past, but then you use towels and acetone to clean them off every time. It ends up being more waste than to just toss the shims when done.
All stone joints need to be scored on both sides giving the glue something to grab onto. If you don’t it can fall apart especially quartz which is non porous material. I’d wear some steel toed boots if I was carrying that around
What is that machine doing at 2:56? What is it?
when you are going to cut porcelain at which rpm you are spinning? and which blade diameter you choose? thanks
Sorry, But I refuse to work with porcelain slabs. In my opinion, they are a nightmare. Even if you do everything by the book, two years later a corner will Spyder crack, a seam will fail, Someone will chip it (which looks horrible repaired), the list goes on. Natural stone or engineered quartz is the way to go. Natural stone has been used for 100's of years and will be for 100's more to come.
Any recommendations for stone epoxy used? I searched on Lowes, home depot, amazon but couldn’t get proper results (results were for the regular epoxy)
Try this Amazon link. It's for Akemi Platinum 4.0
Probably the best glue I have used to date. And highly recommend if you're working with quartz.
I'll put it in the description as well.
amzn.to/3Uz4sFg
@@GraniteByJay Thanks! I’m using it on quartzite and granite, if u have another recommendation for them do let me know please 🙏
@@Hajjat The link is the exact stuff I use. No better epoxy for what you're trying to do. My Honest opinion. Thanks for checking out my video. Always appreciated.
@@GraniteByJay Great, I’ll give it a try 👌
I prefer to do upside down apply pressure to get tighter seam!
How do you clean off the dag on the internal after it's cured?
Someone said use a heavy duty scraper. I laughed at him, yeah right. Scraping metal on quartz is not ideal.
Which type of epoxy do you use ? Is it the best way to glue it?
We have been using Akemi Platinum 5.0
Crazy how strong this stuff is. Tried to pop a normal seam the other day. Two guys sitting on the countertop as I picked up the other end. Couldn't get it to pop. Ended up cutting it.
@@GraniteByJay Thanks I know that Akemi but very expencive. We try epoxy (12hour finish) it is very strong too.
Why the vains didn't match ?
@Charles Moore Unless your a vein match god and account for the kerf
It's easy as fk to bookmatch a job
esta mal cuando pones el type no tienes que poner apretado lo tienes que poner flojo cuando pones el gluu y lo viras ahí tienes que safar el type uno por uno y ahí apretar el gluu tiene que salir para afuera es la manera perfecta ok
4 things, the hardener for the akemi / epoxy😂
Jay GREAT Video! I run a Stone Industry Process Mastermind Group. I would like to Share your Video with the Group as an Example on how to Document Fabrication Processes in their Shops. Hopefully boost your video view at the same time. If you have any interest in Join the Stone Industry Process Mastermind feel free to reach out.
For sure you can. Thanks for watching. I'll look into it the Mastermind. Sounds like you guys do good work. Thanks again.
46 degrees, not 44
46+46=92 degrees
you want less then 90 degrees to leave room for the glue.
@@GraniteByJay that’s correct, that’s why you cut 46 and not 44.
Great theory now let me see it with the whole mitered wall like it usually is not just a little 6" pc.