My son joined Trail Life last year at 8 years old and this will be his second year doing the derby at 9. The troop dosen't allow they boys to compete past 10 years of age so we have 2 years to make the most of it. We won the troop race and the region race with 2 different cars. They weren't very fast, but we have done the reasearch to make them even faster. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great video, I help local races and share knowledge and experience. Local parents wouldn't understand all this and prefer a simple drill and race process. When they watch my cars race and how quiet and smooth, they don't want to do all the little details.
Hi Todd, initially your comment didn't show up because I had this video listed as private. Sorry about that. Yes, I'm aware that most people will think this is too much work. There are many videos available for the scout races so I decided to create a series that will help someone make the transition to league racing. I know my audience will be small but that's ok
It's possible to cant the rear axles using the existing slots. I think Mark Rober discusses that in his video. Also, because none of the stock axles from the kit are straight, I'd suggest using the axle with the most bend for your dominant front wheel. Last, if you are permitted to polish the axles, polish the axle normally used as the raised axle down to about .080". That should create enough of a gap for the wheel to touch the track.
Great information! I have always wondered about the relationship between the DFW axle bend and the “ride height” I have always tried for the nose slightly lower (maybe 0.010” or so) to achieve a slight toe in in the rear. I have always guessed that a slight toe-in would be more stable?
If my drill isn’t perfect I think I’d prefer slight toe out so my wheel would ride against the head of the axle rather than the body. But ideally a good drill is best
I think you and I are saying the same thing? A toe in of the rear axles would cause the wheels to ride against the heads. Correct me if I am wrong, but toe in is when the front of the wheels are closer together than the rear of the wheel …correct?@@mikemcguire2550
I'm sorry that I'm just seeing this comment. I would have responded much sooner. Toe in is indeed when the front of the wheels are closer. That will force the wheel to the body. Toe out will force the wheel to the head of the axle.
Good video. I have been spending time perfecting my drill technique. 😅Can you shoot a video showing your drill procedure and techniques. I think I got it pretty good but I would love to see your techniques.
One more question …on your jig for checking the “track placement” are you marking the true center of the car in front based on the original 1 3/4”) or the center based off you removal of the 0.0625”? I am thinking it would be based on the original 1 3/4”, but hate to assume anything!
My son joined Trail Life last year at 8 years old and this will be his second year doing the derby at 9. The troop dosen't allow they boys to compete past 10 years of age so we have 2 years to make the most of it. We won the troop race and the region race with 2 different cars. They weren't very fast, but we have done the reasearch to make them even faster. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great video, I help local races and share knowledge and experience. Local parents wouldn't understand all this and prefer a simple drill and race process. When they watch my cars race and how quiet and smooth, they don't want to do all the little details.
Hi Todd, initially your comment didn't show up because I had this video listed as private. Sorry about that.
Yes, I'm aware that most people will think this is too much work. There are many videos available for the scout races so I decided to create a series that will help someone make the transition to league racing. I know my audience will be small but that's ok
Are there any options when the unit rules prohibit drilling new spots for the axles, bending the axles or having one wheel off the ground?
It's possible to cant the rear axles using the existing slots. I think Mark Rober discusses that in his video. Also, because none of the stock axles from the kit are straight, I'd suggest using the axle with the most bend for your dominant front wheel. Last, if you are permitted to polish the axles, polish the axle normally used as the raised axle down to about .080". That should create enough of a gap for the wheel to touch the track.
Great Video Mike!!!
Thank you!
Great information! I have always wondered about the relationship between the DFW axle bend and the “ride height” I have always tried for the nose slightly lower (maybe 0.010” or so) to achieve a slight toe in in the rear. I have always guessed that a slight toe-in would be more stable?
If my drill isn’t perfect I think I’d prefer slight toe out so my wheel would ride against the head of the axle rather than the body. But ideally a good drill is best
I think you and I are saying the same thing? A toe in of the rear axles would cause the wheels to ride against the heads. Correct me if I am wrong, but toe in is when the front of the wheels are closer together than the rear of the wheel …correct?@@mikemcguire2550
I'm sorry that I'm just seeing this comment. I would have responded much sooner. Toe in is indeed when the front of the wheels are closer. That will force the wheel to the body. Toe out will force the wheel to the head of the axle.
what wheelbase do you use
Depending on the class, anywhere from 4.375" to 5"
@@mikemcguire2550 ok, I run 4.75-5 but have heard of people using 5.25 wanted to check
Good video. I have been spending time perfecting my drill technique. 😅Can you shoot a video showing your drill procedure and techniques. I think I got it pretty good but I would love to see your techniques.
I'll be sure to do that at some point.
very interesting!
I hope you found it helpful!
One more question …on your jig for checking the “track placement” are you marking the true center of the car in front based on the original 1 3/4”) or the center based off you removal of the 0.0625”? I am thinking it would be based on the original 1 3/4”, but hate to assume anything!
You are right. I mark the center at .875” from the side before I remove any material