Important Fact About Your EDC Flashlights NO ONE TALKS ABOUT...
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2018
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Lumen drop off has very little to do with the “energy” reserves of the battery. By nature lithium and lithium ions are known for giving full power then suddenly die rather than slowly drop like an alkaline. The lumen drop off is based on either an internal timer or more commonly a temperature regulator. This feature is only to keep the electronics from frying.
Correct observation, incorrect reasoning.
Filthy Ego Li-ion batteries does have a discharge curve, if you check direct driven lights, their output do decay over time almost independently of heat.
What does many lights implement and that's to avoid injury and damage, is to either set a timer or add temperature regulation. And some manufacturers will go further and put full regulation on it, which means that as long as the battery can supply the current and the temperature is within limits, the light will provide the max output for that mode.
Kevin Wolf Never stated it didn’t have a curve. Just stated and then you restated that the lumen drop has more to do with temp than power and is determined either via thermostat or timer as to when the drop occurs. Thanks, anyways 😉
The output level is controlled by a timer, but it is still to conserve the energy in the battery.
4boyscouts 👌
Err the wattage of lithium 1off and lithium ion and imr batteries does trail off.
Some batteries are high drain and can carry the output further but still lose voltage, and voltage is the most important number on LEDs.
Cant ever have enough good flashlights. Thanks for sharing and have a good one.
That's not what my wife says, but what she doesn't know want hurt her.
I'm a flashaholic and I will give you some flashaholic advice: the three most important parts of a flashlight are:
1. The LED(s)
| Nichia, Samsung and Cree are the only "real" LED manufacturers.
|A lot of times manufacturers say their lights do much more output than they really do, a good manufacturer doesn't do this, only cheap ones. You will likely not get a real 1000 plus lumen light for $25. The average price for a real 1000 lumen light is about $50.
Learn about the different types of LEDs from the different manufacturers you can download their spec sheets from Google. For example learn how to tell XPL from XPL-HI.
2. The driver circuitry
| Some lights use 7135 linear voltage regulators, some use a MosFETs to "directly" drive the LED's. Some use both. The difference between a linear voltage regulator and a mosfet driven light is that linear voltage regulators will not dim AS the battery dies. When the battery finally dies to the point that the circuitry can no longer drive the LED at the same brightness it will drop brightness. Direct driving is mainly for the more hobby grade flashlights, or older ones. Linear flashlights actually tend dim due to heat and not due to lower battery.
- Example of a linearly driven flashlight I can give is Thrunite TN-12.
Some examples of a hybrid driven lights is Emisar's models.
3. Battery type
|Lights that used disposal batteries are almost a different category. There are some good AA lights like the Thrunite TN-4A. The only problem is that it's a a soda can and kind of heavy. For example my Thrunite TN-12 basically has the same output but a single rechargeable 18650 battery which is much lighter and easier to carry in your pocket.
|There are shorter rechargeables and longer rechargeables thicker rechargeables and slimmer rechargeables. The important thing to note is that these are generally all 3.7 to 4.2 volt batteries. The size will determine the capacity. Larger batteries can output more current, and hold more power (of course).
18650 is my favorite all-around rechargeable. A good 18650 can output about 70-100 watts of power. That's a lot of juice!
21700 is awesome too. 21700 is basically a longer version of the 18650, they usually hold it around 25% more capacity, and due to having a larger internal surface area they can output more current.
|
1,000 lumens is enough. You honestly will not see much a difference if you get 2,000 or 3000 or 4000 lumens. I own several 3,000 and 4,000 lumen lights. Yeah it's definitely fun but the deminsihing returns on your battery life are very quick. These flashlights literally heat as you hold them within a matter of seconds. They can become totally unholdable within a few minutes, to the point it actually burns your hand to touch them like a hot iron. This basically has to do with the way light works, light brightness is not linear. An increase from 500 lumens to 1,000 lumens is not a two times increase in brightness, it's much less.
|
Current is expressed as milliamps or amps.
1A = 1000mA.
A draw of current over time is expressed in Amp-Hours. 1Ah is 1 amp drawn for 1 hour
The general draw of power is expressed in Watts.
Volts × Amps = Watts.
Watt-Hour is the same as amp hours except it's Watts.
|
So if you have a 3000 milliamp hour battery and you know that your flashlight uses a cree XPL-HI, and you are running it at 500 lumens, you can reference the spec sheet of the LED for the amount of power that it will be drawing.
Here is a little theoretical problem to show how this works:
|
|On the Cree spec sheet for XPL and XPL HI at the top of the sheet shows
||Characteristics:
Forward voltage (@ 1050 mA, 85 °C) V 2.84(Typical) 3.25 (MAX)
||FLUX CHARACTERISTICS - XP-L HIGH DENSITY (TJ = 85 °C) - CONTINUED:
Minimum Luminous Flux (lm)
@ 1050 mA
|It goes to list the specific bins of LEDs and their output at 85 degrees C. Mine is 420 lumens output.
|So this means they were running the LED at 1.050 amps at the forward voltage. Therefore the current draw for running the LED at about 500 lumens in my flashlight is going to be about an amp.
|BUT, remember that forward voltage? That's not the battery voltage. Therefore we have to wrap it up in watts to finally get rune time in hours.
|LED draws 1 amp at 2.85V, 1 × 2.85 = 2.85 watts.
My battery is 4.2 volts and holds 3000 milliamp hours, or 3 amp hours. 4.2 × 3 = 12.6 Watt hours. We now know we can run 12.6 Watts for 1 hour off of the battery. So at an output of about 420-500 lumens the battery will last 5.4 hours.
I actually used the lumen count of xpl HD and not the xpl hi but it doesn't really matter this is all theoretical. Hopefully you get the idea and anybody has any questions feel free to ask I love to help.
Stunning and correct ,cheer light friend
Lumens dropoff is mainly due to thermal overheating protection, not battery drain. Switch it off and wait for it to cool, and you can usually reach max again.
Surefire usually has lower max, 300 to 500 lumens, but maintains it for longer.
yeah but whos going to shut off their light every 30 seconds and turn it back on to maintain the max output?
guilty.
im notorious for short use so i want the brightest burst in a small package.
i guess for room clearing or some tactical use you would get that also while searching which is when the momentary is popular
Great vid bro, what’s the best and brightest lights that runs on 2 rechargeable aaa batteries? I’m more focused on handhelds, thanks man you’re awesome
Decided to buy a tactical flashlight a few days ago. I'm up all hours now watching videos like this one. So, fyi, much appreciated!
Over the year for me, pocketability has become my number one factor in searching for a new light. 200-500 lumens is fine the for the vast majority of situations you will run into the majority of the time. Got tired of the size of big 18650s in my pocket and have been loving smaller CR123A lights. Olight S1 Baton is my current EDC.
Just ordered a cr123 copper, just getting into this hobby bc I needed a new collection/hobby to add to the dozen I already have 😂
I’m looking for my first edc flashlight and was thinking of the Streamlight ProTac 2L-X. Any good in your opinion?
Good explanation, another major factor is heat dissipation. Most lights will “thermally throttle” the output to avoid damaging components in the light. That’s why higher end lights have more effective cooling designs with fins and such. Thanks for the video Jeff!
Absolutly right the overheating is one of the big probems everyone wants 1000lm Out of a flashlight (maybe for 2min...) But the "real" Power is 200 or 300 lm it's like overclocking a CPU.
I have some other flashlights not with an eletctronic that holds the Power you put it on 200lm and it's total runtime is 60h no regulation it's dimming off all the time till it's empty. (Yes it's high quality)
Greetings from Germany
Johannes
What brand/model is that big bulky flashlight on the upright?
I buried the front of my tn12 in snow a few years ago on high, it seemed the snow stopped it from goin down in brightness
I’m a bit of a flashlight nut and this is a interesting video for the novice. Thanks for posting buddy!
Is there a way that I can message CutleryLover? I was wondering how you traded with people online. I have a blade that you may be interested in.
Very informative video! I've always advocated "stable" lumens vs max output.
Thanks for making this. I've tried to tell people this over and over for the olights. "The turbo is only 2 mins " 🤦♂️
" this other light says turbo for a hour"
🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Hay thanks I have an $9 dallors flashlight that work's for me I do have a $25 dollar thru night it set's by my bed, the cheaper one is try and true.
Great video. I would put myself in your target audience as I have many flashlights and weapon-mounted lights made by Olight, Streamlight, Fenix, Thrunite, and a couple others but I try to cap myself at around $100.00 on a single light.. Given what the current offerings in this price range are capable of I cannot see a need to spend more
Cool Flashlight collation Jeffery 😎👍😎
Nice video I need a new flashlight even though I have a ton
I lost a flashlight that I loved, but found it a week later (today). I was franticly looking for it and I got really bummed out.
It is one of those small palm sized, 3 mode, zoomable LED flashlights. It took a month to ship it because it was shipped by some cheap chinese company, so I didn’t want to buy the exact same one on amazon. Instead I got two nearly identical ones on amazon for $10.
When I was mowing the lawn today, I found it on the ground in my backyard! It still works too, even though it rained the night before! So now I have tiny powerful flashlights.
I love my fenix tk15. I just keep it at like medium power unless I need to spot something then crank it up. That way you get the high lumen output when you need it without wasting your juice all the time.
You should make a video explaining CRI as imho I think it is usually just as helpful in terms of visibility for most uses as Lumens.
Hello my friend, can you help me review headlamp?
Good manufacturers will make that lumen count and runtime issue clear in their specs. When I bought my h2r nova I made sure to read the specs and see that it wasn't going to maintain the 2000 lumens for very long.
Flashlight truth! I like Olight, they are more transparent with a runtime.
You should give a look on Fenix
For most stuff, you don't even need more than 200 lumens imho. If you are for example indoors and are hunting for a light switch, you won't even see it if you shine your 1000+ lumens flashlight directly onto it. Or in case you want to go for a night hike: Do you think you super bright flashlight will somehow shine trough the trees or something?
I only really see super bright lights as useful self defense items, for either blinding an attacker or as a weapon mounted light (illegal to own were I live).
Indeed. I have used my two Convoys in a mode group that has highest mode of 50% of its peak brightness (Biscotti programmable firmware, mode group [0.1% → 1% → 10% → 50%]). Because of the warmer tints, neither reaches even 500 lumens, and they work perfectly fine for my EDC usage. And that's coming from a dude that has at least three torches that can reach 1000 lumens easily.
Eh, contrast is your problem. In a dark city the lights are very bright, 300-1000 lumens helps to see in the dark spots.
Also better technology is always better, and older is older.
I started carrying a flashlight I had lying around that I got in a two pack with my first folder. It's a Gerber tempo. I used it so much immediately after getting it that I had to get a good edc flashlight to carry with me everyday. I just got a rovyvon a1× as my first real EDC flashlight and so far it's been amazing.
My fave flashlight is the Olight M1X Striker and Olight S1R baton. Excellent quality and great amount of lumins.
More informational vids on flashlights !!!🙌🙌
Not a flashaholic, but for edc I prefer a nice flashlight in cu or ti and more of neutral to warm tint. It's gotta be somewhat compact so my choice of battery are either 14500 (aa) or 10440 (aaa). Lately I've been carrying a Prometheus beta in electroless nickel, but my favorite would have to be my foursevens preon1 in cu.
Then what flashlight would you suggest for an edc/work flashlight?
Thrunite t1
Random ramble/story not super relevant to what Jeff is talking about:
I am one of those people that carries at least 2 lights on me on any given day and on days I go to work I have 3 on me and 2 in my bag. I prefer pen lights like the streamlight stylus pro or protac 2aaa. I really prefer these skinny 2 aaa designs because the fit perfect in my right pocket down the right side and the length is just long enough to keep it from getting tangled with whatever is in my pocket. I then carry a streamlight nano-light in my other pocket. But right now I am testing out a CHEAP stylus pro knockoff from wish and so far so good it is as bright as the stylus pro and the switch is easier to use but we will see how long it lasts. I have yet to have a stylus pro break on me I have bought 6 of them and currently own 3. The other 3 I gave to family members and 1 to a cable installer who was using her phone as a flashlight. She actually ended up breaking it 2 years later and just recently came to my store to buy another. Kinda neat because she didn't realize it was me that gave her the first one till after she bought the second one.
Also Jeff if you read this I'd love to see you test out some of the Nebo flashlights like the inspector (pen light) and maybe the redline flex. I am curious what your opinion is on Nebo lights. I like where they are headed but their older stuff is meh. Also maybe do a video showing how long a lithium battery last compared to alkaline. I was amazed to see on the protac 1l-1aa that the difference was like 3 hours on high. I haven't tested this but its what they claim.
Their oldschool plastic Larry is good value and lives in my toolbox.
Seems like you're the kind of person that'd make good use of a Lumintop Tool, or if you're insistent on 2xAAA, an IYP365.
I was choosing either thor fire pf04 or streamlight stylus pro and streamlight microstream ultra compact, I choose the thor fire pf04 because first of all thore fire has more lumen output (210 lumens) the streamlight stylus pro has only a max of 100 lumens and i think the thor fire is a little bit smaller than the stylus pro for better edc, the thor fire is way more cheaper in my country than the stylus pro and for me its way more better in my opinion. But I think the thorfire and stylus pro is both really good but i like thorfire more and its underrated not a lot of people review it.
About how far can the Nebo Inspector throw? I totally agree with you, on the pocket-friendly nature of 2x AAA lights (the Stylus Pro was my first decent edc light). Although lately I have been using 1x AAA keychain lights (I even found a couple of angle lights, for hands-free use). But if I can find a 2x that gives me good throw, then I would definitely try it out.
My edc light is the thrunite TN12. Love it. Water proof shock resistant 1100 max lumens.
I also have a couple of thrunite tn12 and feel they are one of the best all-around lights currently available for the performance versus the price
Agreed.
very well put
Great. Man, can you give me a type of light that will last for 8hrs of duty? I'm a fire watcher (nightshift). I need to see a certain item in a distance every 10-15mins about 50ft from my post. And ever hour im walking around, check some pipe line. I think i need a lil bit of a throw but there is a flood on it. Im using olight S1rbaton 2 for walking around and some generic fl for backup. Lol.
Great information
Thank you.
I've got a lot of flashlights and the one I like best still is the Fenix TK70. I got 4 NIMH 10'000mah rechargeable d cells for it in 2010 when I got it and its been the most durable high output flashlight I own. Its a search light with 2200 lumens on high for 2 hours in 4 battery configuration and doesn't sag much. I did some power outages tail standing it to the ceiling for a whole evening using the 300 lumen mode and thats as good as any small table lamp lighting a room comfortably for 15hrs before needing charging. Battery life is overlooked with many people but its always been a requirement for me.
Very informative video! I wouldn't use by words for bs though...
I also recommend BudgetLightForum.com especially for those just learning lights and batteries. Also they have a user posted coupon section that can really save you some $$ on lights.
"new light won't run at 1000 lumens for an hour..." Not necessarily correct. Without opening a whole can of worms here, there are 2 main factors to consider: 1)battery capacity. Let's assume you're talking an 18650 size battery light. Currently you can get up to 3500 miliamp capacity batteries...and most other capacities down to as low as 800 miliamps in the same size. More amps=longer run time. 2)How the circuitry is designed. Let's stick with our 18650 size light. If the "hi" or brightest setting is that 1000 lumens some lights will reduce output to keep the light from getting too hot. As per Mr. Gates, its not a bug, its a feature. Some lights will use the full power of the battery until it is exhausted which may or may not total to an hour of runtime on depending on the LED and battery. The "gotcha" is many 'drivers'(circuit in the light regulating power/output) will cut the light off before the battery is completely dead to "save" the battery from damage so that it can be recharged to its full capacity again. If we want to talk typical case, most better lights have a "turbo" mode to reach their maximum brightness. These modes do often have either a thermal limit (drops power when the light reaches a certain temperature or a simple timed power drop for the same reason.) For the record, most of the "better" name brand 18650 lights can output 1000 lumins for 60+ minutes with a typical 3400 miliamp battery.
Great subject of discussion, i started off 25 years ago with a Surefire torch of 80 lumens can't remember if it was Xenon lamp, gives out orange beam carried it for 11 years buying boxes of C123 batteries then was given a G2 LED 120 lumens Surefire torch in 2012 during a defence exhibition by their representative; still had to purchase boxes of C123 batteries which are not only expensive but hard to come by, there are others grabbing it at the shelves. So I decided to get an adjustable 30-650 lumens LED torch Taiwanese made using C123-2/18650-1, work fine since 2014 though in 2012 purchased an Olight single AAA battery giving out 3 adjustable lumens till 120 lumens, wasn't convenient with the switch twisting like the Surefire torch as the Taiwanese made had pushbutton activation. Then again between my wife and me we bring along All 3 where ever we are out of the house. I have a concept of extra torches not batteries so that different ones for different scenarios. I had to go overseas for awhile with my wife so I seek out a 3-D cell rechargeable/standard batteries Japanese made LED spot beam with fair peripheral light capable of reaching 200+ feet, no specifications on lumens/candela still doing fine. But being a hobbyist of torches i had to get an Osram headlight with spot lighting and good peripheral vision up to 100+ feet for my morning's mountain biking and as a spare i have a baseball cap LED light that shines 180° using 3AAA batteries as a backup in my ruck for the morning rides of 0600H trials as near as 12 kilometres or 52 kilometres. So these are my thoughts about torches....
What slays me is the difference in candela and lumens. Most “flashlight geeks” will only pay attention to one or the other, and then get upset when the new light they just bought doesnt perform the way they expected.
sadly lots of lumen and candela claims are inaccurate since people only pay attention to the numbers many companies infate those numbers for sales...Some CPFers use light boxes to test output wish I had something to do that myself...
cutlerylover very true.
@@cutlerylover I would be interested in an overview of which companies tend to exaggerate performance vs which ones that don't. I think it would be fine for you to use data from people who have light boxes and test it as long as you credit them
I think AdventureSportFlashlights youtuber was offering a cheaper light box. Lumen is more of a count of total light coming out where as candela is more the intensity of the light. IE high candela probably a spot light, low candella is probably more of a flood type
@@macro820 Good info! I have always wondered what the difference is but never bothered to look it up
I definitely am not a huge flashlight dude, but I do own a couple good flashlights and I was very surprised that I knew all this stuff haha
As my grandfather used to say "common sense isn't that common anymore" Pukka video jeff...⚡💀⚡
More often than not the light is reduced for thermal reasons. Not only would 3300 lumens for 5 minutes be untouchable it would also negatively affect the battery.
I sometimes hold my lights by the head to use my body / circulatory system as a heat sink.
No idea why Im mentioning this I just find it intresting to be a human heatsink.
My best EDC is a Triple A cell LED from Wish.com cost me less than a pound..
It is the best flashlight because I ALWAYS have it (and a spare battery)
I have some great CREE torches but they are either not in my pocket when I need them or the battery is flat.
Also, it has an ON/OFF switch and doesn't have to cycle through 7 modes
This is why I love the thrunite tc20. Turbo is 3800 lumens for 130 minutes and high is 1800 lumens for 145 minutes.
Good video,Jeff!
Best regards,
Stephan
My BLF GT can run at the full 2500 lumens for I think 2 hours. Just depends on the heat sinking
And how thick your gloves are!
The body was only 91F after 3 minutes, don't think it gets very much hotter but I haven't tried it yet
@@lenzielenski3276 the blf gt is a very large light with ridiculous mass and huge battery pack.
streamlight stylus, strion and stinger. stylus is the EDC, runs on 2 AAA's, can get em easy when they get dead. strion and stinger are rechargable work lights, used em daily as a mechanic, now as an IT tech i use em on big projects at work and around the house. as far as the collection goes, specs matter, but alot of the time just like knives, fit, finish, looks and styles are what make the collection. sentimental value matters too. my first maglite is still in the box for instance, as is all the little keychain lights i've picked up from little things over time. been into coast and cree lately, as well as some cheaper brands like nebo. i like finding stuff that performs like a 100 dollar light but isn't. like the kershaws and crkt's of the flashlight world.
I want a flashlight collection ASAP
I cannot locate a chart depicting "step down" on Thrunite site. Anyone?
There is not a chart, but step down appears to be indicated when comparing flashlights on Olight site.
sometimes the charts are on the paperwork that comes with the light if not found on the website for the company...but not all provide it check CPF for that stuff...
true, but doesn't help when trying to make a purchase decision.
Not all lights step down. If it doesn't state so clearly on the site or packaging it won't. That just means it is able to dissipate heat efficiently enough to run on Hi without damaging itself or you.
I got an expensive flashlight, but I only get to use it rarely, usually only from november-january.
Is there a way to protect the batteries? Keep them out? Charge them regulary etc.? I dont know...please tell me.
Alias Name I’ve got a few lights that have specific uses that are only needed a few times a year, I leave my 18650 cells in them and have the light on lockout mode. They only seem to need topped off on a charger every 6 months.
From what I’ve experienced the self discharge on li ion cells is very slow but I’d top them off every six months if in storage. They also don’t like extreme cold like -10f the output goes down noticeably.
Thanks! Whats a lockout mode?
Alias Name you’re welcome, it’s a mode accessed usually by a series of button presses that locks the light so pressing the button doesn’t turn the light on.
It’s used to prevent accidentally turning the light on which depending on how it’s stored and how powerful the light is can cause a fire.
Most lights that come with a users manual will indicate if it has a lockout mode. If you no longer have it, look it up on youtube and find a video where the reviewer goes over its features. As far as batteries, it depends, if you have a light that uses basic/common batteries, I would probably buy in bulk/wholesale/clearance stock and have a rotating supply like the first group mentioned in this video, other than that you can also go with rechargeable batteries, or go with a light that is rechargeable.
@@dchiznit209 ever seen the manuals from EagleTec? They're pretty short.
1 year ago I am using Convoy flashlights. Now I am using an Elzetta Bravo.
Excellent points... Couple of things... The reflector has a lot to do with how your flashlight performs too... You may have a flashlight that is more of a floodlight and on the other hand you might have a flashlight that is more of a long distance thrower... and don't chase the lumens so much unless you have a lot of open land that you need to illuminate. I think how the reflector spreads the beam is more important. Other thing is how a flashlight operates... I don't like when there is a tail cap switch and a side mounted switch and they do different things... Make it one switch with simple to use functions... Also, I think the strobe feature is useless... I just don't see myself grabbing my flashlight and firearm if an intruder is breaking into my house. Probably won't have the time to fiddle with both... I'm just an average dude that goes to the range twice a month... I'm not Navy Seal Team 6... JMHO...
You should mention this video a bit more often when you talk about flashlights. I am no enthusiast, but I am someone who looks for reliability, durability and things like lumens, candela and features are secondary. I've decided this for my edc knives, pens, bookbags, notebooks, and yes, even something as simple as a lighter (bic and clippers all day for smoking and a nice Zippo for special events). People should try and understand their tools if they're going to be using them every day. I regret that I missed this video when you posted it. Been watching for a very long time now, though I rarely comment. An updated video for this would be pretty cool too.
For anyone looking for a totally affordable and exceptional EDC flashlight, the Lumentop Tool AA (not the 2.0 one). IS the best EDC fl I've ever used. There are too many features to list but for less than $20 you get 500 lumens and a whole bunch of options n accessories included. You really can't beat this flashlight. As for a larger type flashlight, the Klarus XT11GT is the best larger fl I've ever had, comes w 1 18650 n is 2000 lumens. These two flashlights have all the important features and long lasting abilities Jeff was talking about. I cant tell you enough how extraordinary these two flashlights are. both, at different times, have saved me. Btw the Klarus is usually abt $99 HOWEVER, get the coupon code n it's only $57. Worth 5x the price. Oh n a tip: if you get the klarus 3400mah battery, it not only makes it higher than 2000 lumens, it also extends the throw by over 100meters. Good luck and check out these lights. During a total blackout in my whole neighborhood the little Lumentop Tool AA was all I needed (I used the included diffuser) I didnt have to pull out the Klarus once. Peace n stay bright.
Good video! I use a flashlight for work every day. I carry it in a sheath all day every day.
I carry it even when off work. I never have the light on for over a minute. I may use it 4 times in 4 minutes finding something adjusting something. I've found the coast hp3r is my go too. Any one looking that's a go to light! Comes in different colors too. But theres soooo many out there. What works for me may not work for you.
Some lights are regulated so it stays at a constant brightness until the battery can't push it anymore. These lights don't dim, they just die. Usually you can still run it at a lower setting for a while longer.
Don't all flashlights explain this on the box? I have an Olight M2R Warrior. It says right on the back of the box, Turbo mode will be 1500 (or 1000 depending how you have it set) lumens for 3 minutes then it drops to 700 lumens (which is this flashlight's 'high' setting) for 120 mins.
I agree
Been in security since 2005 have had the Maglite 3D cell LED since 2006. paid $40 for it. Still use it at work. I do have an XL100 also never had an issue with either. Other guys at work give me crap about using antiquated lights, don't care my lights are built like tanks and have enough power for what I need. My 3D cell needs a battery change twice a year. The other guys change their CRT batts all the time. To each their own I say.
I would endlessly give you crap and for that I apologize. I just couldn't bear the thought of somebody not using the amazing new technology. It truly is the best type of technology, it only helps you and that's all it can ever do.
There is also a lot of companies that simply lie about the lumens. Generally if it's to good to be true, it probably is. That's why a $200.00 Surefire is 300 lumens (True), and a $20.00 Tactical Tac Defense Tactical light is "1000 lumens!" (False).
You’re right. Anyone can be ignorant about a thing without being stupid.
I'm one and of those that uses a light everyday for fun. My headlamps get used at. Night for walking my dogs and my S20 is used as indirect light while laying in bed watching CZcams or reading. My wife thinks I'm a flashaholic. I only have about 20 though
I had a fantastic light stolen out of my truck this week and it was everything I ever wanted in a flashlight and it seems that there is absolutely nothing anywhere that is comparable. Please help me, it appears you know a lot more than I do about this, I’m looking for something with High medium low with a strobe that is 5 to 6 inches long with a tactical bezel in case I need to strike… I also do not want something made in China, it does not have to be made in the USA but it needs to be made anywhere other than China. I would prefer a tail cap but I can deal with it if it’s not and I’m really hoping that it will have 18650 size for the battery
You’re the man Jeff!!! Your videos are always interesting. I love flashlights btw, an essential but often overlooked tool of the modern world.
I'm a definitely a gear head Jeff😀
Runtime graphs are, well... illuminating. There's an app for that.
Throttling after a short time like the TH30 is usually due to heat, and the TH30 has both a temperature sensor and a time limit (3 minutes) for max. Unlike many lights, the TH30 will make full output or a partly-discharged battery because it uses a boost driver, which compensates for battery voltage. In lights with simpler electronics, max output will track battery voltage.
What I think is most overlooked is color rendering.
Well color vision is reduced at night by bodily functions, and regardless of light visible you don't see as many colors.
Nice video
NEBO sent me nice one the other day. I sent in a 6 year old one for fixing and it never arrived. I lost the tracking slip etc. they kept contacting me! Not the other way around. Sent me a new $65 light. It’s pretty cool and some nice features but can’t say enough about their customer service now. I have a mix of petzl headlamps, normal flashlights, regular lanterns and inflatable solar powered LED lanterns that are so so handy! I don’t really collect. Just use em a lot.
The Shaggy Rifleman yeah I was too. They’re not the highest end. Kind of middle ground but they’re built well.
Ok I’m now I’m confused about this drop off stuff. Example you have a 1000 lumen light. Meaning turbo mode 1000L for 1 hr, high mode 600L for 2hr, med mode 200L for 5hr............and so on. So if I take my light and use turbo mode for an hour, it won’t keep 1000L for hour then die like it’s supposed to do? Then charge it up again and decide to use high mode and it will last 2 hrs this time and then die? All this data is on the back of the box. You can use each mode for a certain amount of time. Meaning you can use firefly mode for 30hrs then die or turbo mode 1000lumens for only 1 hr then die.
Doesn't it have moor to do with heat?
Yes actually
I knew exactly what you were going to talk about just from the title of the video alone. What tier does that put me in?
There are times when googling is more efficient that watching youtube.
Coast g34 about 4hrs 355 on high and 19hrs on low at 115 lumens
I took a nice dump at work today
I'm in the hobby, not on the expensive side, but on the budget side ;)
It's a cool down feature of the hardware and batteries
And then there’s the flashlight you buy, use a few times and not again for many months. I bought aJETBeam T6 4350 lumens 2016 edition on 9/13/16, used a few time and did not need again for awhile. When I used next it would not even turn on and I notified supplier who was reluctant to do anything and I think offered a 30-50% refund if I returned. I refused. And eventually Amazon stepped in and told them to issue full refund which the supplier did. It was over $200 light.
The light problem was probably of your own making. That light has an "E" siwtch rather than a mechanical switch. By its nature it uses some current even when off. You likely ran the batteries beyond the point where they would recharge. Get a new set of batteries (illumn.com has great prices-try the Sanyo 30Q cells) and try it. If it works (and I suspect it will) turn the body a half turn or so until it won't turn on any more to physically lock out the batteries. That way they can sit a year and still work. I do this with my T6.
I’m a flashaholic in a wearing a raincoat on a hot day kinda way.
edc the surefire dender eld
Hey man, I was just searching craigslist and someone just put up a vintage lighter collection. Immediately thought of you. It’s a new post. Maybe you want to check it out? Search Santa Barbara California Craig’s list and you’ll see it. Maybe something you’d want to check out. Just an FYI. I love em but spending my money on a few other things at the moment
Awesome Video about Flashlight!😊👍
it there an email I can pm u with for trading
instagram for DM's thanks
can u dm on pc my phone broke
I'm an average person but I enjoy buying flashlights once in a while even though I don't need them. I like to know about the different flashlights and their uses but since there are so many out there it's hard to know sometimes which claimes are real and which aren't.
My Ace Beam x65 would stay on 12k lumens for 1 hour no step-down for a hour while 6k lumens for 2 hours..ATM am looking for EDC flashlight 18650 & I really like the thrunite TH30 but don't like the HEAD of the light, I would prefer to be more traditional not a HEADLAMP also would've been cool if they had a USB type c port but the plus point on the TH30 1.2K lumens for 90 mint & uses theee latest Xph70.2 LED chip...
now that I'm biking I'm seeing good high lumen bike lights that are USB rechargeable, I feel like if you get a really big powerbank and plug it in you should be good for a few hours at least
Same, got a Olight R50 with a bike mount, this thing lights up the road like a car headlight.
Haha many of us cpf guys are always lurking 🤣 I won't spend less than $100 on a light if I'm honest.
I know a non enthusiast at work that has an inexpensive zoomie, that he thinks is "10,000 lumens".
I turned on my Acebeam L16, and asked him how many lumens he thought my light was, and he said 30,000.
I think I'm flashlight curious. Think I have a couple dozen but no $1000 flashlights.
Check out some Thrunite lights, I started myself with thrunite's lights. Their maybe $100 for a light, a battery and a charger unless you get a usb rechargeable one (I don't like USB rechargeable because it's basically an opening for water, if you forget to put the rubber gasket back in or it falls out somehow) and I like the tradition of putting my batteries on the charger.
My Zippo is my flashlight 😂
*SUREFIRE HAS LEFT THE CHAT*
Ok so hear me out, im a mechanic and need a very small light with as much output as possible, simmilar to size and style of the small silver light with the recessed button, the one on the left.
I love flashlights and knives but the most i spend on any 1 single light or knife is $125.
Personally for cheap and reliable nothing beats a maglite mini weatherproof and built like a tank at under 15 bucks while throwing good light
I'll see your Maglite and raise you a Convoy S2+ for $12. There are all kinds of videos on Utube showing people trying to kill them and failing.
@@lenzielenski3276 but still not as tough as a good old maglite.. You kids these days and your stupid tactical gear
Clever Kitsune You are just a Lucite. Btw, I qualified for my senior discounts years ago. The truth is Maglite has not kept up with technology and is woefully behind in durability and quality control. I know, I've purchase the hundreds of lights to do the tests myself. How about you?
@@lenzielenski3276 not everyone needs one of those fancy led tactical lights nor do we want them, i prefer to rely on something thats stood the test of time and years of field use..and i still carry my mini mag 20 years later
Clever Kitsune Bet you enjoy your horse and buggy, too. Perhaps you should do your research before speaking. The light I recommended has had a sterling reputation for 10 years. Cheers
Cheap flash lights work for me, like them but definitely not a flashohlic.
I carry a single AAA lumintop tool now, used to carry a big 18650 every day. Compromising performance for size was a great decision!
Exactly my style
I like knives