Climber Unknowingly Breaks 15 Year Old World Record
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- čas přidán 6. 06. 2024
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In this video we try to beat the men and women's world record in dyno.
www.guinnessworldrecords.com/...
&
www.guinnessworldrecords.com/...
Enjoy!
Timestamps:
0:00 The Dyno
05:47 World Record Attempts
10:40 Setting step-up dyno world records
17:40 Vivi's Dyno School
My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone madrock.com/collections/shoes...
MadRock Drone CS madrock.com/collections/shoes...
Chalk Bucket
madrock.com/collections/chalk...
Chalk bag
madrock.com/collections/chalk...
Everything shot on Sony A7SIII with Tamron lenses.
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Hey all, here's a little disclaimer for the video.
In this episode we try to break the OFFICAL Guinness world record for male and female:
www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/farthest-dyno-move-in-wall-climbing-male
&
www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/farthest-dyno-move-in-wall-climbing-female
Now that being said, there are mentions out there of people breaking these records (with jumps all the way up to 2.90meters). Those haven't been ratified by GWR and so for the sake of the video we're just going for the official ones, but just know there are a lot of kangaroo-people out there and we're not trying to diminish their achievements. This was shot in good fun, and not an official attempt at breaking the world record, simply an attempt at breaking the official record, if that makes sense 😅
Here's a nice article on the subject: www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/skyler_weekes_king_of_the_dyno_and_a_wine_sommelier-1872
The article is from 2009 and has a funny quote in it:
"Most bouldering world cups include at least one dynamic move on one of their problems and dynoing is simply a distillation of that practice."
Makes you wonder, how would the best world cup climbers perform at a straight up dyno comp nowadays, considering essentially every boulder at every comp has a dyno in it nowadays?
Lastly, again thanks to Frictitious for the sponsorship, just remember you can get 20% Off on any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount if you follow this link:︎ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all
It is worth noting, that Guinness is more of an entertainment-source, rather than an official record-keeping company. I'm not sure how relevant this is for your sport, but they have been rather sloppy in some other domains. So... You may be just the one starting to keep track of this in a decent capacity now :)
calling the Denver Nuggets a local basketball team is absolutely sending me
The name sound like a small local team though.
Saaaaame, to hear my state team be called out like that 😂
Exactly what I though, literally best team in basketball (or second if u rather choose Boston)
@@gongo11gongowell Celtics are a dynasty so they are definitely number 1
Y'all better quit sleepin on my Nuggets
"You need to be prepared to eat sh*t to get good at dynos", says the badass with both a smile and a battle scar on her face 🤘
Huh?
@@theguy760 Watch the end of the video
@@theguy760shin bruise
But it's real, WR holder skyler weeks broke his spine and suffered severe head injury requiring facial reconstruction needing 2y to recover before breaking the record again in 2011
@@dooday1 holy shit!
Good to see the Church mentioned.
All hail B-dog. Keep your eyes out for an upcoming video in a few weeks, a certain dynoist will be involved
Amen brother 😊
🙏
To counter the Church of Dynology, I founded the Saint Static Society (SSS), not to be confused with SS...
The Saint Static Society is for those climbers who always find a static way to solve a dynamic problem. The Saint Static Society is for real climbers, not for jumping spiders!
@@EmilAbrahamssonyessss i need that video
More Vivi. Please. She's amazing to watch and very inspiring.
someone get the man a socks sponsorship
Haha appreciate the concern. Get your ass over to Sweden someday!
🤣
came down here to make this joke if no one else had. xD Good one!
"Baboon brain makes biceps go boom boom."
-Emil Abrahamsson, 2024
Boom boom
This is my first time seeing her and she is such a treat!! I love how she was always encouraging him and her energy is just to die for 😊
Damn, Vivi absolutely crushed that.
I’ve never seen a female climber as explosive as Vivi. Super impressive
Viví is a hero, that was so badass to watch
I feel this is the trailer to the ultimate crossover, we got Vivi, but more importantly, Nikken, Matilda and Teo also appear in the background. It feels like in the next video Emil will say "Climbers, assemble" and all the crew is gonna appear out of nowhere.
.... and thor appears with a flashing light ... and a knee-pad.
really great video and nice to see men and women collaborating on sports this way. as a 6'3" generally large person without alot of upper body, I never thought about climbing or even heard of a dyno. def motivating and interesting, like watching a skate video. actually I think i might go skate a bit. def gets a sub from me 👍
Ah cheers mate! Nice to have you on board and I’m glad you enjoyed the video :-)
@@EmilAbrahamsson getting the skaters on board, that's one easy win
Besides being absurdly talented, Vivi seems to be really cool and funny. Also, absolutely gorgeous hair!!!
Great content, gotta love all things-dyno ❤
18:02 Matilda Söderlund casually doing pull-ups in background :D
this is the freaking hollywood of climbing gyms lol
Amazing video and vivi has amazing energy!! I would love to see more of her :) congratulations on breaking the world record and also setting a new one :) I really really enjoyed this video!
Really enjoyed that. I can see why you are both so good. You can't give up until you get something. The joy when you nailed it
I teared up a bit when Vivi got the step-up dyno. Great job with the video!
Right now I do your hangboard routine before my sessions and seeing you do it on a frictitious doorway mount (which I also use) brought me a strange amount of satisfaction
I absolutely love the way her hair looks. Especially when she is falling. The way it bobs and bounces is just mesmerizing.
This was so exciting. I cheered when Vivi got what she was going for. More Vivi please!
Amazing video! So cool to see you both going for the absolut limit! Amazing to watch such commitment!
now I'm psyched
absolutely loved the video
Your body control not barn-door-ing on that first dyno is _insane._ And Vivi has absolutely no quit in her. Love it!
I was almost jumping with you on my sofa during my breakfast. Good and fun video, thanks. Good warm up just by watching ;)
Maybe the your most enjoyable video so far. You have the best climbimg chemistry!
Call me old school but personally, I’d watch a video of a gnarly crimp being locked off over a dyno anyday 😅. It’s much more impressive and hardcore imo.
Agreed
Love the vid, made me want to boulder even more. How more you do it, how more you love it!
I know it’s probably pretty late to ask, since you’ve most likely already started (and probably finished) testing. But I’ve heard in some video that you’re getting more information about the no hang routine. Would it be possible to also asses the differences between doing it on a static hangboard (bolted down to something) and a hanging one (hanging off of a rope tied to a pull-up bar). As well as doing the routine with only one hand at a time (and obviously lower load).
I’m asking, since this routine pretty much requires the ussr to have a hangboard at home, and installing a full on hangboard is hard (or expensive, even with the video’s sponsor).
I’m currently working on making my own hanging hangboard, but I have realised that it’s a lot harder to hang on it as opposed to a static one, so I’d like to know if there is more to know about it, and I don’t have enough resources to conduct my own research
Hey Emil, you mentioned before the frictitious hangboard you were using a portable board. i have one that ive been using daily now and its helping fix a tweaked finger. how did you determine how much to pull each time? i dont have enough weights at home to be close to my own weight, so i've been attaching it to a resistance band instead. i dont know how efficient it is, but it seems to help a little bit. any tips from anyone would be appreciated! anyway thats the end of my ramble no one will see, great video as always!
Haha, I had to pause this a few minutes in because it shamed me for not doing my no-hang routine yet today :D
Vivi is there…awesome
Vivi is an absolute crusher!!!
I first used the dyno in parkour, but it’s such a useful movement to unlock.
what a crusher! Those muscle ups at the end...
I don't have a hangboard... I just do pullups on the door framing... lol
Burden of dreams definitely doesn't finish on a (forced) paddle dyno haha, but I get the joke
I've never understood why the rest of the gym users just continue with what they are doing and don't watch.
To each his own. I think this view of dynos shifts when one gets a bit older. As someone who started climbing in their 40's and is now 50, it doesn't appeal to me and the risk of injury is too much to take. Not being able to climb, in my case, is a lot more impactful than not being able to dyno.
That's perfectly fair, most of what I said was more so to build up to the actual video. Personally my favorite move is probably a good old static lock-off from some hard edges
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks Emil! I will admit, seeing my 11 year old and the rest of the youngins' fly all over the place is fun to watch. Keep up the good work!
I'm 52 now, I still have a go at the dynos. Not saying I'm good at them but I'll give it a go
@@davesmith1588 Good on ya, Dave! Keep repping for us mature gentlemen.
Not to put too fine a point on it but I do have some underlying mechanical issues due to a couple of cancer runs. However, the old farts at my gym all tend to avoid them.
I still think they look cool. Seeing someone do a double paddle coordination type dyno is pretty amazing.
You have indeed the opportunity to join the Saint Static Society (SSS) which I have founded. We, old static climbers, know it better.
anyone know what chalk bag that they are using? i can see there is an e9 logo on it but also a scarpa one. i have done numerous searches for it but cannot seem to find it
That was fantastic insight and exactly the kind of video I was hoping for. Thank you so much! I like Nothing Mores latest stuff, wasnt a fan of the last record, but loved the three they put out before that. Saw them live a couple of times here in Germany and was always very impressed with Jonnys live vocals. I always wondered how he's able to put so much weight and power in his high notes. But makes total sense that its because he got such a high speaking voice. If you could get him to talk about his singing in an Interview, that'd be awesome.
For off-the-wall power training, it seems people put so much emphasis on feet off upper body exercises, yet the vast majority of power in dynamic climbing movements is generated through the lower body. A lot of gains being left on the table here.
when u did ur flash go on the world record my heart dropped for a second with where the ladder was
Hi Emil, were you wearing the new madrock Shark 3s here? How are they?
Vivi's Dyno School: Eat sh!t and dyno!
I love that last dyno advice! I'll make sure to "Eat a lot of shit" during my next session.
Also, great video as always!
i was visiting Stockholm for vacation in September and almost decided to visit the Moumo gym (on Vivi's t-shirt)... Decided to get a top-rope green card instead. It's still on my list of things to do... to visit that gym and the cafe.
Dude, the " Local Basketball Team " kinda got to me xD
They're the second best NBA team of the season. Now I get he probably doesn't know much about Basketball. But yeh, idk. But good video! :D
The way I got so hype at the end omg
Skyler’s dyno (Zion) was downgraded pretty significantly by subsequent ascensionists because of a high foot that Skyler didn’t use. I think it’s settled around V9 (7C) instead of V16 (8C+). Seemingly, there’s an open dyno project right next to it though that may be truly V Hard
The second ascent did it in 3 attempts vs. 76 days for the FA. 😟
Casually shows us footage of the rocket dyno with Emil and B-Dog in Fontainebleau 😮
Matilda low key in the background. What a gym!
Vivi is great.... so strong! 🙏
.
I wanna see Vivi on Rainbow Rocket!
actually the record is 2.96 by toby segar last year
prob use dif measuring tape or cut string to the length you want, nib the ends so it doesnt fray, and use those premeasured, and pre stretched, strings to determine set lengths. That tape looked real floppy and not super accurate, however that could just be how it looked in edit.
luckily i live in a scandinavian 50's post ww2 cheapo apartment. door ways/frames sticks out like a cm. enough to hang and to do pullups on. with my frame im just about able to do it. body type: gymnastic/powerlifter 78kg about 183cm. would i as a non climber benefit from a hangboard. i usually to do rings, monkey bars weighted dips, and so on.
Vivvi strong🔥💪
Holy shit, I‘ve never heard Emil talk swedish before, this just sounds strange😂
How do you like the MR Shark 3 compared to the OG Drones?
Support from New Zealand
Let's warmp up!
7B...
Haha nice to get a little insight in the YT climber algorithm and recognizing most recommended videos 😂👌🏻 0:45
Haha whoops, thought I blurred that 😂 summarises my CZcams watching pretty well though to be fair
Did you see the video of Toby Segar trying this dyno on Josh Rundle's channel?
y'all are absolute beasts
WELCOME TO THE CHURCH!
That chin bruise is a badge of honor if I've ever seen one!
Funnily enough that "V16" dyno is just down the road from where I used to live. I has been repeated several times and the current consensus is V8, making it potentially the largest downgrade ever czcams.com/video/cB6ChHN0IEw/video.html
Haha love that, funny to hear. V16-V8 is an insane difference, I wonder how it compares to stuff like rainbow rocket and the V8s next to it? Any idea?
@@EmilAbrahamsson I though it was easier than rainbow rocket, but harder than the lines to the left. It does feel a bit harder than other V8 dynos but certainly not 8 grades harder 😂
what do you say about this 8a?
czcams.com/video/X4veXwLe_6w/video.html
I need to learn how to improve my dinos as its my favorite move and in bouldering i always try to find v zeros to v3 to do inos or step up dinos. I did a step up dino once thoroughly flexed it to everyone i met and no one could or was willing to reproduce it
So, you're saying there's no dinosaurs...? Nice record, but I wanted some records of new-discovered dinos. Oh well, I take what I can.
Took me half a minute to realize why he was suddenly talking about dinosaurs
Blud it’s the one thing that connects climbing to other sports😂
Hooly hell her muscle ups are so damn clean. absolute beast!
That's impressive! You should try to officialize it!
Small warning; tried buying that hangboard in the UK... Went from about £170 to £300 after shipping haaa... :(
I hereby officially request that Swedish gyms set more challenge problems like this, bathangs and cracks so there's a reasonable way to train technique other than on the ones that happen to pop up every other year if you're lucky.
Yo Emil! :) Do you like your new Shark 3.0 shoes? I wonder if you can tell me if the heel is as narrow as its predecessor or similar to the drones? Really looking forward to the shoes but I‘m a little worried that the heel won‘t fit me anymore. 🙈 Anyway… don‘t forget to be stronger today than yesterday! 😁👍
Haha cheers mate.
The heel is a lot wider, more so than the drone 2.0. Personally I LOVE it, and it'll be my go-to training shoe for the foreseeable future. I still prefer the Drone for outdoor climbing, but this shoe feels crazy comfortable even when breaking it in. I'm currently chatting to madrock about making a custom shoe with the toe-box of the shark 3.0s, which is perfect, and combining it with the drone heel. The heel hook is a bit too loose to be high-performance for me, but works more than ok in regular climbing.
@@EmilAbrahamsson I would absolutely LOVE to see a custom shoe like this, Emil! I even talked to some climbers about this „niche problem“ I guess you can say… There are a lot of climbers, like Jan Hojer for example who has a wide forefoot and narrow heel which are basically limited to a very very small amount of shoe models. And this really is a problem in the climbing world in my opinion.
WOW!!
14:48 - didn't match, doesn't count ❤
Did they try cross arm for the lunch since hey also did cross legs? It should make it a little bit easier to guide
I'm not a climber, just sometimes watch climbing videos, and I've never seen Dyno written, I thought it was Dino cause you jump like a velociraptor 💀💀💀
I just started trying to get better at dynos. I have a long way to go 😅
Hope Vivis tips at the end can help out a bit!
@@EmilAbrahamsson They were good tips for building strength, but what I really lack is proper technique lol
They forgot to mention when you are starting out it is good to yell PARKOUR very loudly.
all hail the church of dynology!
This move might have just inspired me to try this hobby
Oh you even think about it you just have to, it's too good of a hobby and lifestyle to miss out!! Just be prepared to get some initial shocks at how fast your hand get tired and how sore they get the first weeks or so. It's insanely fun to climb!!
@@nosreuter Every job ive ever worked at eventually calls me a monkey and I consistently outclimb my peers whenever a climbing rock wall shows up but thats the full extent of my exposure to this hobby lol.
Genuinely thanks for the encouragement, Im going to make the effort and take the plunge!
You should have had me try this for some perspective...😂
Church of dynology mentioned
You’re both so insanely strong
Nikon jump scare 😱😂
You could maybe just measure the distance between the bolt holes.
In hindsight that would’ve made a lot more sense. Baboon brain no work
How long does it take to climb V10?
Difficult question, very very few people do it within a year, but that's probably the fastest you can find. The vast majority of people will never reach V10 though
My sport in bouldering is to undyno routes with dynos built in.
Unbelievable!
That girl's an absolute unit damn
“Meter to feet calculator”
I'll see both of you in future Spiderverse movies...
She's awesome!
First perchance?
Very close, but no cigar. Early gang though, love you for that
Shit, as a newbie climber, VV is the sexiest route I'd climb.
Great vid as always.. but saying dynos sets climbing apart from other sports is simply wrong. Dynos are a core component of parkour, way more than in climbing.
Didn't Toby Segar take the WR already? (perhaps even twice?)
Toby's 1.96m dyno was a step-up dyno IIRC (stepping off the hand hold) which is easier than the 1.85m official WR
@@WilliamKielyI think they did another video after that where he tried without the step up. But I can't find either of those videos anymore, did they get taken down?
@@cookiecan10 they were on pete's channel i would say... or lattice?