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Alfalfa Tea for the Garden
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2021
- Alfalfa tea is a liquid extraction of some of the nutrients and organic compounds in alfalfa - applied in the garden or in a plant container it provides relatively balanced nutrition to plants. Here I describe a simple mix: alfalfa and water for around 24 hours. Some recipes are much more complicated, including additional nutrients sources and organic additives, a fermentation stage, and even aeration. I'm not convinced that a tea (aerated or not) provides additional benefits in comparison to a direct application of alfalfa pellets to the soil. Here's one article discussing the science on compost tea: s3.wp.wsu.edu/... Here's one more summary extension.illi... I found another study where alfalfa tea applied at different rates did improve root growth - and more was better: but isn't this what we would expect? More nutrients should certainly help in growth (especially in a deficient soil) but I'd expect it tow work equally well with the addition of alfalfa directly or even with conventional fertilizer.
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"We're all mad scientists at heart"
- On the money, Jason! 😆
Yes we are!
LOL I have seen mad scientists who swear by garlic and pepper as a soil supplement.
It’s not about fertilizing the plant, it’s about feeding the soil, especially the bugs and microbes that till the soil, bring the soil alive and leave their excrement behind. Liquid is faster and if you can mulch it to hide the bugs, it’ll get absorbed much quicker. No need to filter.
Thanks I use the Korean Natural Farming methods to grow microbes added as a soil microbe tea. What many using tea forget is you need still need organic material in the soil and fertelizer to be added for the microbes to digest and make available to the plant. Alfalfa is "low" in N-P-K and matches what the plant can absorb naturally. I agree with alfalfa pellets or meal as a side dressing rather a tea. Molasses grows bacteria, does little for mycorrhizal fungi, and clogs sprayers and drip irrigation emitters.
Jason, many thanks for your help over the years. I am particularly taken by your science based approach to gardening. Regarding applying alfalfa to roses,as I live in domestic conurbation rodents are more of a problem so I go which the tea method of fertilising. Interestingly alfalfa is very rarely used by gardeners here in the UK.
Hi Jason and gardeners alike.
I also have used alfalfa pellets for years.
I incorporate pellets in the spring when turning the soil.
Then make tea a little later using similar ratios however my pellets get submerged in cheesecloth into rainwater in a container.
Once satisfied with the solution, ( fermented or not ) I simply remove the cheesecloth, its contents into the compost, and the tea is clear and watering can friendly!
Thanks for sharing your method and success!
Great thanks to you this spring I used alfalfa pellets on my newly planted roses. They are doing fantastic. I like the way it acts as a mulch in my droughty zone 9 area too. I started using it on newly planted vegetable seedlings too. Same benefit. I appreciate your helpful advice.
i did exactly the same and also very happy to find this fretilizer. im from switzerland
I live in East Central Florida Titusville area Loulou do you use them year round
Thank you. I live in a very hot, dry part of Australia & the direct application of the alfalfa pellets would be more beneficial for my roses because it helps to mulch the soil & keep the roots cool. I must give this a try if I can find pellets.
Over here, we call it lucerne, which we apply as a hay mulch but the pellets look great as they are already pulverised & will break down more quickly.
P.S. Your roses are beautiful & healthy.
You find them in a animal feed store.
Love the alfalfa pellets and all my plants love it too. Used it for years!
I use pellets, eggshells, coffee grounds around the base lightly hand racked into the dirt and lightly mulching on top for heat and moisture control. I live in 7b Alabama USA
Making compost teas as opposed to just adding compost becomes a necessity when dealing with an over abundance of garden denizens that would prematurely devour all of the compost you put down, like the invasive jumping worms (Amynthas sp.) Yup, a reality for many of us gardening in NE NA.. I am now learning all about how to support my plants whose organic matter has been eaten away by a critter which ostensibly should be fertilizing the plant but in fact, isn’t, because of the “more is not better” truism. There are too many of the earthworms, too late in the season (late summer and fall in NE NA) and they live in the surface beneath the leaves, endo-epigeic, and not by the roots. Interestingly, alfalfa contains saponins which are deadly to earthworms and thus touted as a jumping worm repellent but I question this since I’ve tried it and it hasn’t worked. The pellets swell up with rain and mold over at which point the slugs love to eat the alfalfa! The slugs also love to eat the copious and inordinate jumping worm castings, so we cannot go by slug taste buds. So ... foliar feeds and compost/castings/garden debris teas is where it’s at for me and many many more others.
I also agree, and just use the pellets or cubes(what I use) at the base and water in.
Thanks Paul
Love the No BS Scientific approach to your video's!!
I also found that one fertilizer substance at a time to tackle the problem. Keeping things pure and simple is my thing. Applying the pure tee and pellets are best.
I'm so glad to be able to go to you, Jason, for your great fully developed concepts. We make a hot compost using alfalfa pellets as our ignition, this is the first year that I used alfalfa mash - while its still warm - around the base of the roses. Yay mad scientists - hehe!!! After i did a few roses - I felt I really better check in with you before going further - it looks like you are doing something very similar to what I'm doing - the only difference is that before I put the pellets on the area around the roses I make it into an active biological mash like I do for my compost. Maybe I should just experiment with a few roses, lest I destroy my beautiful garden?
Warm regards
Jennie
Sounds fairly safe overall. I heard from a few people (esp. in drier climates) that they soak and work in. You'd have to put on an awful lot to overdo it.
Thanks for your answers to the questions I’ve been researching. I really look forward to your posts!
Hi Jason, im so happy i discovered your channel yesterday, i have resently purchased several rose varieties ,and have been totally enjoying your educational videos, you do an amazing job. ❤
Thanks so much Gail
Hello Jason. I already use alfalfa directly in my garden beds, as you recommend, but the reason I clicked on your video is because I was thinking of making a quick biochar from commercially available hardwood lump charcoal to create a kind of slow-release fertilizer for my veggie beds. After watching/listening to your video, you convinced me that I would be making unnecessary work for myself and should just keep it simple by adding alfalfa and kelp directly. Thanks!
I put the pellets on my vege garden. I believe it helps vigorous growth.
Great video and usual! Thank you!
My enzyme tea consists of newly sprouted alfalfa or mong bean, put in blender at a rate of a one or two tea spoons per gallon. Then bubble it no more than 1.5 hours. then feed to the plants.
Thanks for share
Looking forward to buy alfalfa and use it in my garden
Love this. Was about to look for this recipe. Love to see comfrey tea as well
I've heard that you have to be extremely careful when using alfalfa. That it will burn your plants. I think I would dilute all except for one as a tester. Also try the Jadam method. Your already halfway there with just soaking the alfalfa pellets. Try Throwing a handful of leaf mold soil in the bucket as well as a pinch of sea salt (for minerals). I didn't believe it either and I tried it, all I can say is wow! One week later any issue was gone, or at least noticeably on its way to getting better.
Thanks for the video. Good stuff and well presented.
Try mixing it with dry kelp meal !
What a pleasure to say hello Jason, thank you. Again a super video, a chance to see your beautiful roses with names and background scenery.
I want to add that my dream of visiting again Canada may become true...God willing it will be a bit more thorough...it’s a beautiful country!!!
Happy to hear it. The idea of travel has seemed so out of reach for the last couple of years.
I was introduced to compost tea probably fifteen years ago at least. I always understood the concept to be about the plant biome, not so much direct nutrient delivery, but supporting the microorganisms that through their natural processes, support the plant. That's what the aeration and molasses is for: food and oxygen.
That's exactly how is was presented to me: different compost tea recipes with varying ingredients and "brewing" techniques, but all with the claim that whatever microbial magic that happens is going to confer some additional benefits. These claimed benefits include growth stimulation, basal breaks (especially as regards alfalfa and roses), disease resistance, stress reduction, etc. I have no doubt that adding energy sources (like compost, alfalfa, molasses) and aerating it at the right temperature will bring on a rapid bloom of bacteria. Studies have found inconsistent results - the microbes and resulting "tea" varying by the batch. And that's in a controlled setting. Who knows what will result from a backyard brew? It's going to release nutrients and chemicals faster when you speed up the bacterial activity - that much stands to reason. But then I go back to my basic feelings on fertilizer: more (and faster) isn't always better. Presumably, all of the nutrients and other phytochemicals in the alfalfa or compost will ultimately be released (albeit slower) when processed by soil life. And the research (linked in the vide description) seems to support this view.
exactly what i was thinking
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm i agree, and in that case its probably better to feed it a little bit over a long period instead of all at once. manual slow release :P
Thanks Jason for the training segments, unfortunately here in Brisbane, Australia, I found that in our heat, alfalfa pellets go mouldy on the surface, so I use four times the amount of chopped alfalfa mulch in the same way, but soak for 30 minutes. Pellets are excellent here mixed in soil 1/4 cup/square foot, cheers 👍
Thanks Ross. Always good to hear what works in other climates.
Why not just pour the tea mix directly under base without straining it would that just add more time released fertilization over time like mulch
I think it would be completely a matter of preference. I presume that those who don't want the green/brown mush of alfalfa pellets applied directly to the soil would choose to strain.
Why even make it a tea at all then? If you're just going to pour the soaked pellets at the base, you may as well just toss bare pellets to the base and water in. It's still slow release.
Thanks for this recipe Jason :) I think putting the pellets directly around the plant sounds better to me. I still have to get my hands on some alfalfa pellets!
try buckerfields
@@lulutileguy Thanks for the recommendation but sadly they're in BC and I'm in ON. Hopefully their online options will be open soon with shipping :)
I don’t know if roses need antioxidants like people do but they say for people juicing is a waste because much of the antioxidants are bound to the fiber. For sure for the garden fiber improves the soil.
Thanks elsa Grace!
Hello Jason! How often in a season do you add the alfalfa pellets to your garden? Thank you 😊
2-3 times per spring depending on how busy I am. 1 or 2 months apart.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you very much Jason! Your information is much appreciated. ❤
I added Alfalfa pellet on the bottom of old roses plant before rain today！Thank you your knowledge🌹 Love your videos👍
Don't put it against the stem/trunk, I get it by the 12 yard load, learned a hard lesson, wheelbarrowed the stuff and dumped, didn't take it away, it rained and it heated and scorched 5 year old trees, so keep it back.
Hi Jason, love your channel! I saw your previous video where you recommended the alfalfa meal. Bought the alfalfa meal and started applying it around most of my trees and shrubs. I am not sure how often it is safe to use throughout the growing season?
It may be safe at even higher levels, but I usually go with about 1 cup per shrub 2-3 times in spring
Adding oxygen is about breeding the correct types of bacteria. And it's about adding beneficial microbes to your soil. Also just as turning a compost pile to add oxygen breaks down the compost faster, the same is true for your alpha within your water. A bloom of bacteria on a microscopic scale eats the alpha and makes more of it's nutrients faster available. So is it adding more nutrition: no. Is it breaking the organic matter down faster creating a faster response: yes. Is it preventing harmful anaerobic bacteria to grow: yes. Is it adding beneficial bacteria to the soil that help prevent root rot and other pathogens: yes. The science is very clear with over 2 decades of university research. Call up the university of Michigan ag depo and ask them.
Thanks Joe. I actually do understand the reasons they say it works, but the problem is with the consistency of the results. A garden writer I respect a lot (Robert Pavlis) did a good analysis of the various research results in this article: www.gardenmyths.com/compost-tea/ When you look on Wikipedia for a layman's version of the scientific consensus, the conclusions is this "The efficacy is influenced by a number of factors, such as the preparation process, the type of source the conditions of the brewing process, and the environment of the crops. Adding nutrients to compost tea can be beneficial for disease suppression, although it can trigger the regrowth of human pathogens like E. coli and Salmonella" In other words, it's a great big "it depends, and be careful". If it's so difficult to reproduce consistent benefits in an academic setting, what are the chances that home-brew compost tea is living up to the claims? And does the tea really outweigh the benefits of soil-applied alfalfa by so much (consistently) that they justify the effort? I don't think I've taken a particularly hard line on the issue: if you think you can brew up something special, I'm quite sure you won't let my skepticism stand in your way.
Thankyou very much for doing this .it is really appriciated
My first time with this, thank you for your sharing ❤
I use the compost tea to kickstart my soil microbes, it's not a fertilizer. I use it especially if I have mixed up a new batch of highly amended soil and no plants have been planted in it yet, I feed the soil compost tea when my plants are young and it seems to do the trick, after I feed them the leaves are praying never seen them happier.
I applied alfalfa pellets that I bought organic in a big feed bag for goats at a Tractor Supply Store the beginning of Spring directly around all my roses( mini, tree rose Drift, Knockout,( Neil Diamond and Rio Samba at time of planting) and then made an alfalfa compost tea with fish emulsion and Epson salt a month later. I applied the mixture to the roses at their base not straining the mush out. Not much rain afterward( zone 8a in North Carolina) caused my mini roses to evidentally get fertilizer overdose. The minis have gotten blooms but the leaves look horrible ( could be disease from too much rain last yr too). Haven't fertilized any of my roses since this yr. The Neil Diamond is nowhere near the minis and has gotten one bloom and continues to produce nothing but leaves.
Thanks for sharing your experience (and for illustrating the point about stacking fertilizers!)
Another great video Jason!
If you sprinkle the pellets on the lawn will it help the grass?
I just bought a 50# bag alfalfa pellets and I don’t want to store, and I only have 7 roses. Throughout my flower beds.
Sure thing!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
The reason they aerate is to increase Bacterial count. Warm temps and oxygen will do it. So anything that contains bacteria can be added including fish emulsion, worm castings, compost even soil. Molasses is used as food for the bacteria. Anything that feeds the soil is more important to your plants then a quick meal. Feed the soil the soil feeds the plants. Without bacteria in the soil you will constantly have to feed it the macro Nutrients.
Thanks. I hesitate to bring the "no-till/low-till" debate into this, but it may help me to make a point: prior to intensive agriculture, I'm told the North American plains soils were deep and rich with organic matter. Early farmers broke the ground up with annual tilling - this fast introduction of oxygen to deep layers of the soil "fed the bacteria" and quickly unlocked nutrients and made for high yields. Long-term, after years of heavy tillage and soil degradation, many farmers began to move back towards minimal tillage - trying to build organic matter back into the soil profile. To my mind, adding the alfalfa pellets directly to the soil allows for slow incorporation and soil building. Processing in warm water with aeration may indeed allow for a fast bloom of bacteria and a quick release of nutrients, but a fast spike in nutrient levels isn't really what I'm after. Reading your response, I think we're both kind of saying the same thing - but we may differ slightly in approach. I'd rather see the soil life do its work (relatively) slowly in the soil profile than pre-process these organic amendments for fast release.
For 30 years when i dug down more then 6 in all i got got was hard packed clay. 2 years of no till with korean natural farming practice and my soil is a soft rich black down past 12in. Never had yields like this before.
Nicely done!
I think the problem with applying the pellets directly is more for drier soils and those irrigated on drip. In my soil the pellets can remain a full season and not integrate with the soil unless I'm watering constantly and directly with a hose or truly working them deep into the soil around the plant, which is a lot a work if you got several plants. They do crumble but remain as a crusted mulch on top of the soil otherwise, and don't seem to provide any benefit in that same season. I think in this scenario watering with it is more efficient.
Thanks. Always good to get feedback from other growing climates. I've heard back from one grower in a humid tropical region, where the caked alfalfa residue will apparently increase the risk of rot. Your feedback about drier climates is the other end of the spectrum, and also very welcome to the conversation. Here in the middle (moist, temperate climate) the alfalfa pellets work fairly well when applied directly, but now I have a better appreciation for why others would want to dissolve (and possibly strain) before application.
I use an old spice grinder to beak down to a powder.
Another stellar and concise video with some serious eye-candy with your gorgeous roses. Jason, I watched this video because it said "for the garden", but you only spoke about it's use for roses. I have a home garden with many veggies, herbs, and some flowers to steer the pests away from certain crops, but have never grown roses. Is the alfalfa pellet method of fertilization good for vegetables and herbs, as well, or just for roses? Off to binge some more of your videos, but thank you so much for being so thorough. Hugs from NW Arkansas, USA
Thanks Pam. Yes. I demonstrated with roses because honestly, among rose growers alfalfa tea is almost a religion. But I use alfalfa pellets all around my perennials and annuals as an inexpensive and relatively balanced organic amendment.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you so much for the quick reply. Hugs
I wonder if anyone has any suggestions to help keep Japanese beetles from destroying my roses.. 😫
Thank you for another informative video.
Think I'm going to go with cofee grounds ...thanks for the advice on more fertilizer isn't always better... I just have a small garden out my window and wanted to grow yellow pear tomatoes next to my pineapple tops...if I had more land though the mad scientist gardener in me is wondering how alfalfa would do as a cover crop and then chopping up all that alfalfa and mixing it into the dirt before the next planting
Very interesting! I use alpaca tea and alpaca beans on my gardens from our animals. I add alfalfa pellets to their daily feed. I think I will try this out! What are your thoughts on adding some alfalfa pellets to potting up mix?
So long as you manage the proportions, it seems like a good way to offer some early N supply
Weeds and grass clippings are free.
I'm adding shredded probiotic Alfalfa to my compost as an experiment. Michael
Nice. Let me know if you see a difference!
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm It'll be next summer. It's getting quite cold here in Santa Fe. I have 10 rose cuttings from the WalMart parking lot that are doing very well. 4 others that I started last year are 2 feet high now. I wonder how I could find what they are. They look like Knockout roses. The plant is large and bushy. The roses are small and deep red. Thanks, Michael
I hear what you're saying. What don't understand is why you use tires in your garden? Tires leach toxic, carcinogenic chemicals into the soil and plants grown in them. May I ask what you do with sediment left in the colander? Can it be put into the compost? 🤔
Any undissolved alfalfa sediment can definitely go in the compost. I did a fair bit of research on the tires and their rates of breakdown before putting them into the garden - it turns out that as whole tires they aren't leaching enough to be concerned about. It might be a different story for crumb rubber mulches (at least over the short-term). Garden author Robert Pavlis did a fairly in-depth analysis in this article if you're interested: www.gardenmyths.com/tire-gardens-safe/
Hi Jason, Funny, I was wondering what one would do with the solids strained out of the tea. Seems a wast to throw it out. If I remember, you suggested about handful of alfalfa pellets per plant? Also, I’m so glad I can use pellets. I was looking at stores and wondered if you had meant alfalfa meal or could pellets work. You answered my question here. Thank you!. Oh and by the way I used some synthetic fertilizer to my roses after their first flush of blooms. All I can say is WOW! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks Marie. I'm glad you're enjoying so many blooms!
Compost!
Most alfalfa is GMO which may not matter with roses. When using it for food growing, an organic alfalfa product would be safer.
Hello, Jason
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the fermentation process make the nutrients readily available to the plants? It's not that "it's better" it's just readily available. I prefer to just throw the alfalfa directly onto the soil but I do use fermentation in other applications due to it releasing nutrients into the "tea" making them immediately available to the plant. And there is plenty of "science" to back this up. What say you?
Nothing to correct. More biological action speeds up the breakdown, and makes nutrients available quicker. The more dubious claims I see are more like "suppresses foliar disease", "increases basal breaks", and "improves soil health" (the first two are dubious altogether, and the third may be true in general with any addition of organic nutrients, but here I'm comparing it to the direct application of organic matter to the soil, which I think is common sense better for soil structure). I've heard from some folks that they find it useful to pre-soak the pellets and then work the mush into the top layers of the soil - because otherwise it just cakes during dry weather. Whatever works. If a faster release of nutrients is what you're after, I think there's merit to the idea of fermentation. Robert Pavlis does a good run-down on the benefits and risks of compost tea in this article and it's worth a read: www.gardenmyths.com/compost-tea/
I like alfalfa residue/when the residue is dry work it in to the soil like the pellets/ done/ what you're making is a alfalfa Tea that helps kick start/ when the plant needs a boost/ So if you add the pellets for a slow constant release and the tea when the plant needs it that would be a good plan??? its the scientists in me.
Sounds like a good one!
I tried this about 15 years ago on a number of roses. Unfortunately, the alfalfa product was contaminated with clover and I had an overgrowth of clover under each rose.
Ugh - that's too bad!
Clover makes a great cover crop and shades the soil too.
I let my alfalfa tea ferment by accident. I forgot about it during a heavy rain period. I used it anyway in my large raised bed garden. I have harvested the largest cabbages and lettuces ever. The stuff was brown and bubbly. I just used a hand cultivator rake and worked it in and planted my home grown seedlings.
Foliar feeding aka direct feeding for 100% absorption. Instant gratification. Injecting soluble vit c thru the blood stream vs orally passing thru the digestive track illustrates.
Thank you. I would like to be able to just top dress with pellets, but I can't because it attracts rats. Your garden looks like you have a lot of open area between plants, which may be why you can get away with top dressing. I do make a tea and any residue gets fed to the worms then the worm castings are top dressed around plants. That takes a lot longer but seems to work well.
Thanks!
Top dressing is slower release then TEAs
Jason, how often do I apply the pellets.I have been adding more when it has disintegrated. Thank you.
In my more recent video on alfalfa pellets the supplier mentioned it would be safe to apply every 4-6 weeks through the early season. I cut off all fertilizer (organic or not) in mid summer to allow the garden to wind down for the season.
Thanks Jason for this video. Alfalfa is going to be on my shopping list! Question for you...I have really sandy "soil" and have tried to amend each of the planting holes for my 100+ dahlias. Because my soil isn't very good (I don't know the PH of it either) I am seeing some yellowing of the leaves. Being a newbie to dahlias...what was I thinking to take on so many?! But I am easily obsessed! I haven't seen any of your videos where you mention dahlias but wondered if you happened to know the answer to this question: would a couple handfuls of alfalfa pellets at the base of each dahlia plant help with this? Thanks in advance for your comments!
Hi Karen. For faster results, you might consider a liquid feed with fish fertilizer or a general purpose conventional fertilizer (like Miracle Grow). When I have roses looking a bit pale, the alfalfa may help, but it takes a long while. BTW, here's a video of my visit to a local Dahlia grower (excuse the shaky camera please!): czcams.com/video/BKoCdbdP9e4/video.html
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thanks for the link to the dahlia video - loved it! I have fed with fish fertilizer once so will continue with that. I appreciate the reply
should I use this as a soil amendment a month or two prior to planting plants into that soil? or would this be a "waste"
I'm sure it would be fine, but it's also no problem to apply fresh with the plants in the ground.
Tks for the info
How often you apply alfalfa to the roses
I give them a topdress at the time of pruning and once or twice again during the early part of the season.
So helpful...ty.
I left a cup of alfalfa pellets on top of the soil for spinach bed, but there is a bit of mold growing on the pellets. Am I adding it wrong? Should I try to mix the pellets with the soil?
Probably depends on the humidity of where you live plus mold will grow easier in shade and with lack of air circulation.
@@elsagrace3893 I think you are right, it is in spinach bed which is a little bit crowded and not tall. I didn’t see the near roses. Next time I will add to the soil and mix it in before planting or adding seeds.
I probably should have mentioned that you'll occasionally see some visible fungal growth on the alfalfa (especially if it's moist and piled) but it's part of the natural break-down and shouldn't be a problem for your plants.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you for replying. I will continue to add alfalfa meal
Hi Jason. I am from Malaysia. I would like to know what I can substitute for Alfalfa?
Thanks.
Love your channel btw 🌹
Thanks you. I freely substitute with compost or animal manure. For me, it's just important to continue to feed the biology of the soil and add organic matter for moisture retention.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thanks
Hi Jason, are you happy with the performance of alfalfa pellets on your rose, over conventional fertilisers such as manure or blood/bone meal? Thank you
I'm satisfied with how it feeds the plants and conditions the soil, but I wouldn't even necessarily say "over" other organic amendments. It's convenient and easy to work with, but I suppose if I lived next to a horse stable, that'd be a convenient (and maybe free) source too! My compost works great, but doesn't go far enough to cover everything. I also mulch quite a lot with lead mold and wood chips. Taken together, they're improving the soil - and I do top up with liquid feed or conventional granular if I'm looking for a quick bump in growth or flowering.
I wonder if the wonderful alfalfa smell will attract deer? I have deer problems.
Hmm... it's not something I deal with.
I'm growing many different plants for my fledgeling nursery & I'm trying to get the fertiliser amount dialled in for each plant. Are there any good resources which will tell me the fertiliser requirements to give me one up on just trying things out & looking for the response? At the moment I'm just using a standard potting mix with slow release pellets in for everything, but I'd like to be more specific.
I know Cosmos & Lupins are light feeders, Sunflowers heavy - is there a list somewhere online? Thanks!
Not one consolidated resource that I know of, but every time I consider a new perennial I do a couple of google searches about it. I also browse through the growers culture sheets from suppliers like Ball.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm That's brilliant - lots of reading there, thanks very much!
Why do you have to strain the compost tea? Couldn’t you just put the unstrained tea on your vegetable garden?
It's more or less for those who object to the alfalfa residue. I don't mind it - and in fact, I usually just apply the dry pellets themselves and water them in, or give them a quick soak before applying whole.
What's your view on letting it ferment, not aerated? The koreans seem to think there is a benefit in terms of nutrient bioavailability and microbial population.
I'm open-minded about it, but I'm also a natural skeptic, so I approach it with some reservations. I've heard similar claims around EM (effective microorganisms) something I learned a bit about because of my Bokashi-style composting. The idea was that a selected blend of the most beneficial microbes (in this system, it was mainly lactobacillus, some yeast, and photosynthetic bacteria) could be cultured in high concentrations and if applied to farmland or crops it would increase productivity. The academic studies were all over the place with results, so there was never any good evidence that the method worked (at least with any consistency). That seems to be the pattern with many of these biological extracts, biostimulants, and microbial inoculants (going all the way back to the biodynamic movement). Without this evidence, I default to "easy and common sense" - applying the organic matter directly to the top layers of the soil will offer equal amounts of nutrients, food, energy for microbes, just not all at once. Brewing up a big batch of microbes in a bucket of water may indeed release the nutrients faster, and if you're after a quick boost, I bet there's some merit to it. For me, I'll leave it to the soil life to do what it does best: slowly convert the organic matter into nutrients (and improve soil structure on the way).
When is epson salt 🧂 usage not a smart idea ?💡
Whenever your soil is not deficient in magnesium
With aerated compost tea one is getting bacteria and/or fungal critters. Is that better than alfalfa pellets only? I mean both together.
I'm going to say this cautiously, but IMO no, aerated compost doesn't have enough extra benefit (over the plain pellets) to justify it's preparation or use. As they say "your mileage may vary" and that's kind of the point: when you brew aerated compost tea, you really can't be sure which microbe's you've cultured in any specific way. If you look up the benefits of ACT even on something like Wikipedia (sort of a layman's interpretation of the scientific consensus) it's basically a disclaimer that results vary by preparation. There's some benefits reported, but no way to quantify how much is because of the brewing and how much is just because of the added nutrients (that you would have anyway because of the addition of the source material). For my time and money, I'd rather just apply the alfalfa direct (or with a quick soak to soften) and let the microbes do their job in the soil.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you sir….!!
Like this! How often can you apply the alfalfa to your roses?
Hi Carolyn. I go every month or two in the spring, and then stop in late summer. In my climate something like 4x total Feb, Mar, May, July. Timing may vary a bit, and you can definitely continue to fertilize longer in mild climates.
Jason, how much pellets do you add per plant and how often? Just wanted to tell you that I planted 20 roses today which brings me to 65 total. A few are blooming now, can't wait till they are all blooming. You got to know that you and your vids are my owners manual to roses.
I generally do a cup / scoop of alfalfa to the base of each rose, and I try to do it 2-3 times in the spring/early summer. Local climate-wise, it might work out to March, April, June applications.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you.
Why do you have tires around roses ?
czcams.com/video/u0-cnrOZvRo/video.html
Hi Jason! I’ve just planted some bareroots in containers and sprinkled alfalfa pallets to the potting mix when the pot is filled to about 85% and then top up with another 15% of potting mix. So the pellets are actually buried by the top layer of soil instead of at the surface. Do you think this is ok? Thanks so much! Looking forward to visiting your farm this season!
That should work okay - it'll keep them relatively moist to help them break down quickly.
Thanks so much Jason! Hope the opening of your farm brought lots of fun❤️
Jason, I am new to growing a rose garden (9 bushes total, all are different varieties) I have a thick layer of mulch that appears like chips of wood? I would think if it's blocking out weeds, wouldn't it prevent alfalfa pellets from breaking down into the soil underneath? I'm thinking your tea mixture might work better for me? What do you think, please?
Thanks Suze. Yes, not a bad option to liquify it first to aid in delivery to the roots - it's either that or manually work the pellets into the mulch
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thanks Jason :)
Do you use organic alfalfa pellets or conventional?
Organic when I can get it.
Why not just pour the alfalfa mush and water onto your garden beds? So, why stain out the alfalfa mush? You can simply rake the alfalfa mush, which is organic material, into your garden bed. Isn’t the alfalfa mush organic material that will improve your soil?
That's a good approach too. I usually apply the dry alfalfa directly (to get the full benefit of the organic matter) - and because I'm in a high-rainfall region through spring, it works out fine. Some people don't like the green "crust" this leaves behind - either with dry application or the mush method, and I heard from some viewers that it can even repel water to some degree. Then again, you can easily work it into the top few inches of soil too.
Sorry Jason, this might be a dumb question, but how is this different than using an N-P-K fertilizer?
N-P-K is a measurement of 3 of the major nutrients in any fertilizer. So Alfalfa *is* an NPK ferilizer (2-1-2 approximately). More often, the distinction is more about organic-type nutrients (manure, compost, liquid fish, kelp, etc) vs. the conventional (fertilizer salts) based formulas. Alfalfa (because is comes from a living source) is in the first group. Organic nutrient sources usually require some soil organisms to break down and become available to your plants - so their release is generally slower, and quite dependent on soil temperature and moisture. Organic sources also "feed the soil", improving structure over time. Conventional fertilizers are available much more readily to the roots (unless they're coated to delay release) so the risk of burning roots is higher if you get the rate wrong.
Hi! I'm a silent watcher. I've been watching your videos since i love roses. I was wondering the roses you have in there would actually grow here in the Philippines? Like the one's you just showed in this vid?
Hi Gianne. I provide a small list of roses know for doing well in tropical climates in this video: czcams.com/video/trejh_2m9uM/video.html be sure to check the comments too, as some viewers who watched the video added their own list of favorites from warmer climates.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thankyou😍
Triacontanol.
Yes. I didn't want to "get into the weeds" of the topic, but the quest for triacontanol is probably one of the reasons rose (and cannabis) growers popularized the use of alfalfa as an amendment. I have a few thoughts about this growth hormone, but decided to leave it out of the video because the results are quite mixed and difficult to replicate. Alfalfa still makes a good, relatively balanced organic type amendment - and if there happen to be some additional benefits of triacontanol, so much to the better.
What’s the name of the orange rose at 6.17? I would like to look it up since you don’t do mail order. Thanks for the information.
It's Westerland
What is a good mulch and much for roses please 🙏
I like wood chips on mine
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm 🙏
Hi Jason, sorry totally off topic, but do you have an explanation in any of your videos of how to sell roses that are no longer under a patent, but still have a registered or trademarked name? What do you label them as or name would you sell them under? Thanks!
Well I don't have a complete answer, but I did do a video on the topic: czcams.com/video/w9VWtoyJIl4/video.html What I've been doing (when Helpmefind lists a rose as still "R" or "TM", but outside of patent period) - in order of preference: 1) use an alternate synonym that's not TM (example: Livin' Easy is TM, Fellowship is not. Both are good names, so I use 'Fellowship'), 2) use the nonsensical denomination ( eg 'MEIdomonac') and then link the description to helpmefind so the customer can make the connection (this works okay for the website, but not so much for a plant tag, 3) I hate to suggest it, but if there's no satisfactory alternate name, there's nothing preventing you from creating your own marketing name. You could sell a Bonica as "Nonstop Pinkness" and then put 'MEIdomonac' in brackets so that the customer knows it's Bonica, or can at least search it up if they're interested. It's not great (because I hate to obscure a rose's identity with a bunch of alternate marketing names) but it's the trademark holders who are causing the problem.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you so much, that is very helpful! Love your channel and videos. I have watched so many channels on growing just about everything out there and your channel is easily one of the best!
Hi Jason! Is it OK to put these pallets in the pots with roses in them? Can I put alphalpha pallets, worm castings and chicken manure in pots that are growing roses? Thank you
Sure. I usually use slow release prills (like osmocote) in containers, but alfalfa on the top would be fine too if you don't mind the look of them as they break down.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I bought Dr. Earth organic Alphaalpha meal in powder. Will mix it with organic chicken manure, worm castings and flower/rose food. Rather use all organic products. Osmocote is chemical.
Isnt alfalfa good for fruit and vegetables as well?? Can you recommend a brand of alfalfa to use? Organic??
It works fine for veggies too - I don't go for anything specific. The 40lb bags I find at the feed store are the most cost effective.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm i watched another channel before i saw yours and they said it should be raw, sundried, and no binders. But the bags dont give that info
I'm afraid I haven't been so picky about it, and still have good results. I'll need to see what their reasons are, but generally speaking soil microbes are pretty good at digesting the whole works in organic material and turning them into what your plant needs anyway.
When I saw the alfalfa pellets, I thought you were going to talk about bunnies. I guess the bunny pellets for bunnies aren't profiting.😄 Anyway, I have a rose vine that I secured the main branch horizontally (about 6 feet long), so I have many more limbs growing from it. Well, it worked, and they are two feet higher than our carport. Touch the tip of your index finger to the tip of your thumb, that's how thick the branches are or more. It rarely blooms. What do I do? Oh, and this is one'em with a solar light on it at night. Hardly any leaves eaten. Do you have a video about this type of rose?😁
Actually, the alfalfa bunny pellets for rabbits aren't even worth getting for rabbits after they reach 6 months old. Strictly alfalfa is not good for rabbits after they get that old. I only buy Timothy Hay based pellets for my rabbits. It's better for them. And alfalfa pellets for rabbits aren't good for use as fertilizer anyway. The companies add too many binding agents, vitamins, etc., to their alfalfa pellets making the pellets not totally organic.
@@boomchicaboomboom We had bunnies too. Timothy Hay was actually hay that we bought. It was messy but easier to clean up when you find your bunny inside the bag and having their feast. After the last bunny passed, I said no more. The doctor bills were high. But there's always an urge to get another one. Have a happy hopping day.
You don't recommend digging them into the soil???
You sure can. I think it would depend a little bit on your climate. If it's wet like mine, the alfalfa pellets break down pretty quickly, and they don't need the extra work of digging in. If they would just sit on the surface dry, then covering them would help to keep the moisture up for break-down. Either that, or you could presoak them before putting them down.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I decided to try some and made the mistake of buying cubes. On sale at $11.99 for 50 lbs. so I have some soaking in buckets to break them up and plant to spread and dig it in where I have poor soil.
I see you have some antique roses. My question is what variation of that antique roses is good for liqueur, juice and similar food? What is your recommendation, I have trigintipetala.
Your rose (trigintipetala/Kazanlik) is the classic traditional rose for rose water and other culinary uses. For rose hips, I think nothing is better than R. rugosa (and its hybrids). Beyond those, the gallica (Apothecary's rose) was used a lot in western Europe, and I suspect that the Portland roses (which are gallica/damask hybrids) would be useful - they bloom over a longer period than your Damask will.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you for that tips :)
I have done both ways but I prefer just throwing alfalfa pallets cause it is fast and biggest reason I am lazy....lol
Me too!
Is alfalfa frown organically.?
I wouldn't count on it - not unless there's some sort of declaration of the sort on the bag.
Do you have any problems with rabbits using the alfalfa pellets?💚🙃
No, not really. I don't get a lot of rabbits in my area, but we do have mice and other little varmints. I find that once the alfalfa swells up from moisture and begins to break down, they don't seem to bother with it.
Jason, I am in Toronto and wonder where I can buy those pellet in bulk?
Look for an animal feed store - here I'd be looking at Otter Co-Op, Buckerfields or Mr. Pets. I'm not sure what the equivalent local store is in Toronto.
Your roses are beautiful 🤩
So....if one can apply the alfalfa pellets directly, what is the point of straining the tea to remove the thick solids first?
If you're okay with the alfalfa solids on the surface around your plants, it probably just makes sense to apply them directly (dry). If someone wants the benefits of a quick liquid application and no green/brown residue, then strained alfalfa "tea" is probably the way to go. But I won't judge any which way.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm ..thanks so much!
How often do you add the alfalfa to your roses? Thank you!
Every month or two for the first half of the year
Could you please tell me what type of paint you used for the tires? Does it keep heat away or just normal paint?
It's regular exterior latex. We picked the green as a kind of "camouflage" in the green landscape, which seems silly, but it really is just less jarring to look at than a black rubber tire.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you💚🌹
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm love your videos! Do you have a video on how you plant your roses in the tires!?
HELP 🙏 I recently brought my rose bush back to life and Poke Weed is beginning to surround the bush, causing only 1 single rose to grow.
However, I have small children and would like to remove the poke weed, how do I do that without killing the rose bush?
That's a tough one. My normal response might be to dig out the whole rose and carefully make sure to eliminate any pokeweed roots before replanting. However, if the rose is already pretty weak, that might finish it off. My next suggestion would be to maintain vigilance of cutting off the pokeweed at ground level (what a job!) until you're more confident in the condition of the rose.
I would have dug it up and probably hurt it!
I appreciate the reply and the info, take good care 🙌
We have poke weed, and it is very shallow rooted. I pull it out while it’s small. You are right though, if you let it get 4’ or more they can be tough to get out.
I'm really surprised about the low NPK level. Seems like you would need more P K for roses.. ?
Thanks. A lot of people (including me) will use alfalfa meal a good "bulk" organic amendment and then supplement with other sources of fertilizer as needed. If you want to stick with organic source, bone meal, kelp meal, wood ash (if your soil pH isn't too high already) are good ways to buff up the P and K. The nice think about the low NPK of alfalfa is that you can add a good amount at a time without overdoing it. If you added a higher NPK fert a cup at a time, you'd burn the roots of the rose.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm ok, thanks for responding!! I will keep that in mind! 💕❤️
Can you spread alfalfa over all plants and evergreens???
Yes - it's safe for all plants
Thanks for the knowledge Jason. Would you be worried about critters like rabbit eating pellets from the surface in your rose bed ?
BTW I LOVE use of tires to create somewhat of a raised bed and aesthetically it looks awesome too.
Thanks. If you water the pellets in after application, they seem to swell up in a way that makes them less attractive to critters. I don't get rabbits here anymore (I didn't do anything - but I think other local farmers may have) but I do get mice, and they don't seem to bother with the alfalfa after it's swollen up and decomposing.
Well the literature on compost teas in general says it can help with disease prevention when the soil hasn't been treated with composted manures. Kinda makes sense when you consider that compost is a primary ingredient in compost tea and is the source of all your microbes. The studies seem to indicate that soils devoid or lacking in biology benefit greatly whereas those that already have a good microbe population didn't see an improvement. There's a kind of contradiction in this way of thinking because I think that the gardeners who are most mindful of their soil are the ones who are most likely to be already adding biology through whatever means while the ones looking for shortcuts to harvest are more likely to be killing their biology slowly through tilling and chemical fertilizers. If you have been doing it (adding biology) all these years through alternative means, you could not really say it is not effective!
Thanks for the discussion. From my point of view, it's not a matter of asking whether additional organic matter helps soil life and plant health. That's a given. The real question I'm exploring here is whether there's an *additional* benefit to steeping it as a "tea" rather than just directly adding the organic matter in the garden, and allowing the soil microbes to take it at their own pace. And moreover, whether any additional benefits are worth the extra work. The evidence is quite inconsistent about the claimed benefits of aerated compost teas - and point to differences in preparation and application. So care must be taken to sort through the information with a healthy dose of skepticism, especially since many of the proponents are trying to sell you product. Robert Pavlis from Garden Fundamentals did a great job of reviewing the research and comparing apples to apples. Here's his article on it: www.gardenmyths.com/compost-tea-does-it-work/
@ValleyRoseFarm Yes indeed, however there he's mostly comparing NPK. The study I read was actually checking the effects of compost tea on plant diseases.
This is where I think the research is a bit all over the place. Like Pavlis, I am not surprised that adding compost tea gives nutrients but I am surprised that sometimes, it helped greatly in preventing mold and bacteria diseases and other times it did not.
In some cases where a tea against microbes is found to be effective, autoclaving the tea to kill off all the microbes still retained it's disease preventative effects. The researcher in that study posited that "The inhibitory agent was determined to be a low molecular weight, heat stable, non-protein
metabolite produced by micro-organisms during fermentation 15."
And that " A similar conclusion was
reached by another group who compared efficacy of finished tea against autoclaved finished tea"
I think the jury's still out on compost tea. I also think that we know enough about it to be able to say that at worst, it doesn't hurt and at best, it can help greatly in some circumstances. Given that brewing tea is only a matter of time and not money or resources, I feel it is very low hanging fruit for the diyer.
Finally, there are proponents of the Soil Food Web that aren't out there to take your money. Mr Pavlis mentions one in his analyses repeatedly (Dr Elaine) so I do think that Mr Pavlis isn't as sceptical about tea as he once was, particularly because one of his latest videos gives you a way to count microbes so you can "use it at the opportune time", if I may paraphrase Mr Pavlis a bit.
I'd like to add that through my anecdotal evidence, I've had explosions of mold growth when I poured compost tea on haphazardly mixed in worm casting top dressing. Something is definitely raging on in there XD I do think it's fair to occupy both the "healthy skepticism" camp and also the "mad genius at heart" camp when something shows promise.