Royal Enfield Bullet splitting flywheels, replacing big end and reassembling and truing crank.
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 12. 2020
- A start to finish look at the process of splitting and rebuilding the crank from a Royal Enfield 500 Bullet, removing the worn components, replacing with new items, then reassembling and truing the rebuilt crank to minimal run out figures. An engine could run with quite a lot more run out than this and appear to be 'O.K.', but for the longest life from the main bearings and the smoothest running possible, it is best to have any run out present at as little as possible, although 'Zero' is rarely achieved.
Thanks for this Paul. Very interesting !! 👌
That was fascinating! I've never seen this done before and would have had no idea how to start with doing it myself. You've done a terrific job! The next one will be to get that press indoors, if only to stop you from catching your death.
In many ways it is much easier than a modern crank to handle, many thanks for sharing.
I was taught using a copper hammer, I find it much easier than swinging the crank about.
You would have to hold the crank and the hammer, presumably, but each to their own.
Excellent video Paul, thanks for taking the time to film it, and it ain't half rained past two days.
Thanks - and yes, it has crossed my mind to start building boats!
Thanks for these videos, great to watch someone who knows what they are doing!
Thanks!
Nice work Paul. Thanks for showing us the whole process. On a roofing job in Wales some years ago I learnt that waiting 'til the rain stops is not any option.
Hi Jonathan, that is very true - and thanks!
Great video Paul , I have just came across this one now , I never realised that there was such an art in setting up a crankshaft
Thanks, John.
nice work paul.
Thanks 👍
I was lucky enough to buy a Humphries & Simon crankshaft jig complete with tooling. Never done a crank job before but have a Norton single to fit an Alpha big bearing and crankpin to which means new outer race to press into conrod and may need honing? I have a 10 ton hydraulic bench press which I hope will part the flywheels. I am using a steel tube with a 10mm thick wall that the flywheels will pas through and a slot milled out of it from end to end for the conrod to pass through and a 10mm thick steel plate with a slot milled out of it for the big end and rod to pass through. Plate fits between flywheels, the jig is a cast iron machined bed with 2 round upright posts at a perfect right angle, T nuts to clamp flywheel to base and a clamp assembly that pulls both flywheels against to 2 upright posts and told to tighten up crank pin nut and then clock the crank......
Fingers crossed.
Very good film, nice to see all the step and what can be achieved with a block of wood, inertia and a huge amount of skill.
Thank you!
That reminds me of watching Jack Gray (of Gander & Gray) doing the same thing, bumping flywheels on the end of a portion of tree trunk on the floor. Looked crude but (with patience) great precision. Nice to see the old skills are still around.
Thank you!
I watched Mick Waller doing this to a C15 crank last night. It’s great watching masters at work - even if it does leave me envious of your skills!
Thank you!
Two of my favourite channels. Always pleased when something new appears.
@@56Model30 Thanks!
Excellent! I look forward to each video. Words cannot describe how grateful i am.
Wow, thank you!
Great content Paul , thank you
While I quite enjoy the runs around the Welsh countryside, the in shop presentations are very informative. I’d never seen a press-together crank brought in before. The wood block taps were new for me. It’s not likely I’d have tried lining one of these up before seeing this. Having seen it done I might give it a shot by now. Thanks.
Thanks. While I appreciate that nobody can do everything, you don't have to be super human to do jobs like this - I also taught myself how to build wheels and have done probably hundreds to date, so 'have a go'. I take the attitude that if it is worn out or broken, there is nothing to lose by trying. Splitting the flywheels is probably the hardest part to do without causing damage. Just take your time and be patient and it is amazing what can be achieved by mere mortals!
Found it! This is excellent!! Thanks Paul!!
First time I’ve seen this 😮 awesome! Always wanted to see this process and how you did it. Phenomenal 👍👌👏
It is worth mentioning that, of course, the lathe centres must not be flexing the flywheels together by pushing too hard. Also, I would continue, no need to bump the flywheels any more but now they need wedging opposite the crankpin to finely bring them into perfect alignment. The wedging can be done with a bolt that just fits between the two halves and the nut unwound to provide inside pressure. Conversely the flywheels could be squeezed in the vice. It is not entirely true that it is ok to have the runout rising and falling together as it indicates that the shafts are not running parallel which is no good for the main bearings.
The shafts are running parallel at the mains, basically any tiny rise and fall is transfered to the flywheels themselves once the crank is running in the mains. I am also aware of wedging and using the vice, as you describe and have used these methods on occasion. I always make sure the finished assembly spins very easily in the mains once the cases are assembled with the crank in the bearings, and if not, I work to make any final adjustments until they do.
Thanks Paul for this video. Lots of really useful tips here. I’m sorting out a Velocette MSS and I’m thinking I’ll follow your lead👍👍
Thank you Paul. A really practical approach.
Thanks!
great result and most enjoyable to watch, thanks again
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks!
Great video Paul , thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
good job
Always enjoy your videos.
Thank you!
First time I’ve seen that been done well impressed 👀
Thanks paul .another great video .
Thanks 👍
Good and nice
Enjoyed your video Paul. Happy New Year!
Thanks and Happy New Year!
Very interesting video sir
Thank you!
Really interesting video👍
Thank you!
Paul ge zijt een ware Meester , een kunstenaar . Ik denk dat de tovernar Merlin een goede leerling aan u zou gehad hebben ,dank u voor dit leerrijke stukje motor techniek .
Dank je !!
Nice video Paul but couldn't see how you aligned the two flywheel halves accurately before the final press. Get it even a fraction out and your dial gauge readings will be all over the place. Is there a procedure to line the two halves up other than a good straight edge?
Great video Paul, I’ll ask you a question elsewhere....
Hi John and thanks. I have just just replied to that, with a link to this video as well!
Great video Paul, it's good to see people will invest in their bikes and repair rather than forget about them or just replace with another. Just out of interest I did the same thing on my year 2000 500 bullet 3 years ago, I have the luxery of access to a hydraulic press and noticed that minimal pressure measured in tons was required on the bullet crank pin to push out whereas both an MZ ETZ250 and TS125 crank assembly were in the region of 21 ton to free and a steady continues 18 tons to press out, is this the norm for 2 V 4 stroke or was Mr Kaden a little more exact 🙄. Keep up the good work, cheers.
Thanks, glad you liked the video! I think your cranks were probably of the fully pressed up types, where the ends of the crankpin are parallel rather than slightly tapered, as on the Bullets, which get tighter the further they are pressed in and they are secured by lock nuts. I have also worked on the type of crank assemblies you describe and, as you say, they need considerable force all the way in order to split and reassemble them and it is easier to do most, if not all the truing well before they are fully home.
Hi Paul Love your videos. Been fitting a big end assembly to a VB 600, following your advice on the R.Enfield crank. All goes well untill I tighten up the nuts (tapered pin with peg to line up oil hole) the wheels go out of balance. Any advice would be gratefully received. Have tried socket wrench and windtly gun. Thanks. Vince (Anglesey)
Great video Paul. If you get a chance next time can you film liner honing of Hitchcock's RE13 on conn rod and getting the right clearance between liner and needle bearing, Cheers !
Thanks, but that would make for a very tedious and boring video and it is a job I try to avoid, although I have done it a few times. Flap wheel, fine grinding paste, lots of cleaning, checking, more honing, repeat, etc!
It is a tedious job indeed ! How are the long term results of these bearings Paul ? Would you prefer Hitchcock's RE13 over standard floating bush. Also how much smal end side to side movement/play is acceptable as Hitchcock doesn't mention anything with regards to small end play, cheers !
@@vjchaudhary1444 The plain big ends are very strong and fine, as long as they keep getting the right amounts of clean oil. i have never measured, but a little side to side play is normal.
I see you like to work in the rain outside to stop anything overheating and it washes your crank at the same time!
Ha, ha, yes - you have to work in the rain where I come from!
Abcerluy brilliant
Thank you!
Great, thank’s for an in depth video on the subject. Can I do my bsa m20 the same way ?
Yes you can.
Thanks for your answer !
Very much enjoying your video’s is there a risk of disturbing the flywheels when you tighten the crank pin nuts ?
Thanks Danny, it is always best to check again after tightening the nuts, but I do the last bit of truing with the nuts 'nipped up', so usually ok.
Paul..very interesting and informative film . I've only just come across your films and I really have enjoyed watching the content and learning from your narration. Can I just ask a quick Q and call me thick but...Why didn't they make the crank pins with splines or a flat to eliminate all this time consuming 'Truing' and also..What stops the 2 halves from creeping out of true if there is no positive location , as the primary side has a different load than the timing side ????
Kind regards
Hi Damian, I doubt an acceptable level of truth of the flywheels and mainshafts could be predetermined by splines or a keyway and the interference fit of a crankpin is normally enough to hold the plot together and in line, especially those with locknuts fitted, although some high performance two strokes have been known to seize so abruptly that their cranks have been forced out of true in the process!
Very nice, Thank you. Is there a figure to tighten the crankpin nuts to, or is it down to experience please?
It is down to 'feel' and you have to finish with a flat of the nuts positioned to allow fitting of the locking screws, as well.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thank you.
This is light weight crank change into heavy
What is the outside diameter of the crank flywheels, I'd like to know if I can do this using my 11" lathe. Thanks in advance. They look to be between 6-8" but I can't seem to find the dimension online.
Hi Paul, I have 2011 Classic 500 Electra EFI. I see the exhaust pipe discoloration at 2 places, where the O2 sensor is (bend pipe) and at the middle of the exhaust pipe, is that normal? Do you know of any fix to the problem?
The Con-Rods do NOT have pressed in bushings which, after wear, can then be pressed-out & replaced with new ones ? Or it is just a matter of ease to secure & install a completely new combination ?
Replacement outer races for the conrods are available and I have replaced them on occasions, but a new conrod was needed here, as the sides of the old one had been rubbing and wearing against the flywheels, the big end being so bad!
@@paulhenshaw4514 I have to say that the alloy rods supplied for the Enfield look pretty rough. Do you reckon the Hitchcocks steel rod and Alpha roller big end are worth the additional cost?
The Indian alloy conrods look terrible as they come, but they can be tidied up and polished and I have done this for a number of engines. The British Redditch alloy conrods looked much better, and probably were - Hitchcocks sold these new until recently. The forged steel conrods are expensive, but stronger and can be had with plain or roller big ends. The plain big ends are well up to the job, but will fail sooner than the roller type if there is a lubrication problem.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Appearance aside, 'tiding them up and polished same' will not impart added strength...right ? [A significant lowering of weight ?] So, since they will be 'invisible' & oil covered anyway, to what advantage would this futile exercise be, except maybe to stroke one's ego ?
@@amelierenoncule Polishing any marks or rough finish from the Indian conrods greatly reduces the risk of stress fractures starting, which can lead to breakages.
How heavey are thos cranks asemblys? Have u ever lost ur grip of 1 as u dress it off that block
They are 10.5 kgs - wouldn't be nice to drop on the feet!
hello i just have a quarry i.e., my bullet electra 2005 5S Cast Iron connecting rod is play only side ways ....... so is it safe to install new block piston ....???
A little side to side play is normal, up and down play is what we don't want to find!
@@paulhenshaw4514 thank you for ur time. what if the side to side play is little more then usual
@@luckylotus11 As long as the conrod can't rub on the flywheels it is probably ok.
By heck, that block of wood was a feast for the eyes 😂. What causes a big end to get so sloppy in your experience? Neglected oil changes I'm guessing.
Poor assembly, poor servicing, poor maintenance and slogging the engine are all good ways to see off a big end!
Slogging? Is that like lugging- low rpm, open throttle?
Yes, I think that’s “slogging”/ lugging an engine.
What are those meters for crankwheels on bothsides?
They show and measure any runout on the mainshafts.
Great stuff. Thanks. What's your average number of bumps to get truth?
Thanks, answering that is like 'how long is a piece of string?' - it may only take a few, or it could take nearly all day. If 'near enough' is good enough, it wouldn't take long, but near enough is not good enough for me!
How much mm of Crank Dia and width dimensions
How much miles can a 500 bullet big end have before getting too much play? (Is it a weak sport or?)
The floating bush big end is actually very strong, I recently stripped a crank [seen recently in my videos] from a machine which had covered 80,000 miles and found the big end to be almost as new. Lubrication failures and poor servicing, also slogging the engines will all see a big end off in no time, though.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Thanks for reply! I have a bullet 500 in overhaul (waiting for parts, still looking for non-Indian valve springs, but not stiffer ones) and that's good to read! By slogging you mean letting the engine work hard at low rpms at higher gears? (low oil pressure, a lot of strain)?
Lube failures.. yes, i found a lot of cork remnants on the rocker's insides.. i can imagine if it gets there (how?) it can block an oil passage..
Yes, that's exactly what I mean by 'slogging' - too many riders seem to do it!
@@paulhenshaw4514 I thought only harley riders were so stupied to do this..Most of the time these folks have no clue how a motorcycle works, but want 'the real thing'-Cough- ; )
I need your opinion about my Royal enfield classic . I got some type of debris from engine.How can I contact you...
Sorry to take you OT.. besides my diesel bullet(winsun 188) i have since a few month's a 500 '94 bullet which i would like to stay petrol.. (as it ran very good with a PWK carb..) Looking at all the nuts and bolts, and still having the india-dunlop tyres- as new- on it, it seems like it has run very low mileage.. Yet the cylinder is worn out.. seriously.. By your experience.. are soft/badly hardened cylinders an issue with 90's bullets?
The cylinder liners certainly wouldn't be hardened, but there was no shortage of badly bored cylinders from India at one time.
@@paulhenshaw4514 English is not my native tongue.. so you mena that badly hardened cylinder is possible?
@@enfielddnepr No, they are not hardened, but sometimes the bore itself might not be straight, round, or the right size for the piston.
@@paulhenshaw4514 Hence the wear-out, and not because the wall of the cylinder is too soft?
@@enfielddnepr Correct!
What's the weight of the crank?
A 500 crank usually weighs around 19 kgs, and I often lighten them by around 1 kg.
Hindi me btae g
upasheershak ka upayog karane ka prayaas karen
Hope that came out right [try using subtitles]
sound quality is crap
Thank you so much, as if I didn't know already. It is not like I am the BBC. Sorry if it was a waste of popcorn for you.