A build up of a Sprat & Winkle auto coupling in 3mm scale. The mounting plates, couplings, wire and chain links are available from 'Wizard Models Limited'
@@WestBlythMPD no problem at all. I’ve also used Kadees which can take a fair amount of work to make them reliable but they are pretty good, especially with American HO stock.
thanks for the video and the tip regarding the Bill Beford wire former I've ordered one. I'm work withing spratt & winkle couplers on my 7mm layout. I've been using them for 18 months or so. I think my assembly method is a little more developed than yours. I no longer push the staple through the base plate. I just solder two pins to the base plate leaving the reverse side smooth. This makes it far easier to seat on the wagon, ( I'm only using them for wagons) Instead of playing around with liquid flux try and find some soldering paste, it works far better for this job, I apply with a tooth pick. Also if you can increase the temp of your iron.the solder bond is far quicker and this means less heating on the coupling. A good lead based solder as used by plumbers runs well. Or try the low temp solder from DCC concepts as this runs well and has a strong bond. regards.
Hi Richard, thank you for your comment, I would be very interested in seeing what you mean about using pins instead of the wire staple. I have exactly the problem you mention in having to alter the wagon bottom in order to fit the coupling. If you have any photos of what you mean that would be great. Regards Michael
Hi thanks for your comment, the coupling is simply glued to the underside of the chassis. The coupling needs to be glued in such a way that the coupling 'loop' has to be level with the buffers on all of your wagons. The small staple that holds the coupling hook needs clearance to enable the mounting plate to sit flush with the chassis. I find it necessary to remove some plastic from the buffer beam so there is no fouling, a Dremel and cutting disc is ideal for this but slowly does it! My couplings are glued in place with a thin smear of 5 minute epoxy, this gives sufficient time for the alignment of the mounting plate. Hope this helps. Michael
Just doing this for first time Mike and was going ok following your guide But then following the instructions for the smaller staple, they give the wrong dims to bend the wire as its too short to align with the holes in the coupling hook plate and mounting plate😡 Do you know what the dims was Mike?...8mm as they say 6mm . I will use this plate now without hook ie have each wagon with only 1 hook as some people do.
Hi Paul, thanks for commenting I will check that for you. Are you using the 'Bill Bedford Jig? The only vehicles that have a hook on each end on my layout are brake vans otherwise mine are the same set up as yours.
@@WestBlythMPD Thanks! Im not but hv v good flat blade pliers that have widening noses thay go from 6 to 10mm so mark a line at say 8mm and able to bend sharp 90deg U staples every time. I will measure the hole spacing for next one and get it right. I recall you mentioning about yr Guards vans. I have the Slaters MR GVs coming so will do both ends on them cheers again
I have all the photo's on my phone currently, but the software to retrieve them has failed (once again its Huawei ) I'll get back to you once I have found whats gone wrong. Rich
Mike I've put my guide at www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52747 if you find the forum its under O gauge Spratt & Winkle coupling assemby I hope it helps
Really good explanation on how to use these and the accent is great too. Why aye man.
Thanks for your comment, I am pleased you found it useful.
@@WestBlythMPD no problem at all. I’ve also used Kadees which can take a fair amount of work to make them reliable but they are pretty good, especially with American HO stock.
Thanks very much for sharing; excellent and clear.
thanks for the video and the tip regarding the Bill Beford wire former I've ordered one. I'm work withing spratt & winkle couplers on my 7mm layout. I've been using them for 18 months or so. I think my assembly method is a little more developed than yours. I no longer push the staple through the base plate. I just solder two pins to the base plate leaving the reverse side smooth. This makes it far easier to seat on the wagon, ( I'm only using them for wagons) Instead of playing around with liquid flux try and find some soldering paste, it works far better for this job, I apply with a tooth pick. Also if you can increase the temp of your iron.the solder bond is far quicker and this means less heating on the coupling. A good lead based solder as used by plumbers runs well. Or try the low temp
solder from DCC concepts as this runs well and has a strong bond.
regards.
Hi Richard, thank you for your comment, I would be very interested in seeing what you mean about using pins instead of the wire staple.
I have exactly the problem you mention in having to alter the wagon bottom in order to fit the coupling. If you have any photos of what you mean that would be great.
Regards
Michael
Mike I'll add some photo's in either face book or a post on the model rail forum.Either way I'll give you a link. I hope to get that done today.
You certainly know your stuff xx
Thank you very much for your kind comment.
Michael
Can you explain how the coupling is secured to the underside of the wagon please.
Excellent video, Has taught me a lot, thank you
Hi thanks for your comment, the coupling is simply glued to the underside of the chassis.
The coupling needs to be glued in such a way that the coupling 'loop' has to be level with the buffers on all of your wagons.
The small staple that holds the coupling hook needs clearance to enable the mounting plate to sit flush with the chassis. I find it necessary to remove some plastic from the buffer beam so there is no fouling, a Dremel and cutting disc is ideal for this but slowly does it!
My couplings are glued in place with a thin smear of 5 minute epoxy, this gives sufficient time for the alignment of the mounting plate.
Hope this helps.
Michael
WestBlythMPD Very helpful thank you
Just doing this for first time Mike and was going ok following your guide But then following the instructions for the smaller staple, they give the wrong dims to bend the wire as its too short to align with the holes in the coupling hook plate and mounting plate😡 Do you know what the dims was Mike?...8mm as they say 6mm . I will use this plate now without hook ie have each wagon with only 1 hook as some people do.
Hi Paul, thanks for commenting I will check that for you. Are you using the 'Bill Bedford Jig?
The only vehicles that have a hook on each end on my layout are brake vans otherwise mine are the same set up as yours.
@@WestBlythMPD Thanks! Im not but hv v good flat blade pliers that have widening noses thay go from 6 to 10mm so mark a line at say 8mm and able to bend sharp 90deg U staples every time. I will measure the hole spacing for next one and get it right. I recall you mentioning about yr Guards vans. I have the Slaters MR GVs coming so will do both ends on them cheers again
I have all the photo's on my phone currently, but the software to retrieve them has failed (once again its Huawei ) I'll get back to you once I have found whats gone wrong. Rich
Mike I've put my guide at www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52747
if you find the forum its under O gauge Spratt & Winkle coupling assemby I hope it helps
Hi Richard, believe it or not I have just read this now! Thanks for the link and great information.
I hope that you are well.
Michael
Mike give and email and I'll send you am email with all the photos ( I've sort out the Huawei)
Hello Richard, just a reminder about those coupling photos if you are still able to send them.
Michael