When my radiator blew on mine I caught it before it ever cooked. Put a new oem radiator in and a 180 to go with it and it’s mint. The 4.0s love the 180 thermostats.
@@roboticvenom1935 the XJ was originally designed for a much smaller GM v6. stuffing a big inline 6, 4.0 motor in them hasnt helped, lol especially the 97-01 models with the dual pre-cats on the factory exhaust manifold. i run a stock, but all brand new cooling system, except for a 160 thermostat with a burp hole drilled in the top, and a ZJ clutch fan upgrade. i run 180-190 on the hottest days with my ac on. i flush mine every spring and fall.
That should be the first thing you do when you got the Jeep is replaced the cooling systems and go with stock parts. Jeep engineers knew what they were doing. GL and have fun the ur XJ!
I used an autozone replacement fan by Dorman, been working for 2 years now. Go all stock and you will be fine. If you get the radiator flushed make sure and I mean make sure they flush the heater core. They are notorious for getting clogged with rust.
First thing I did with my XJ when I bought it at 150K milage was replace the radiator and flush the coolant. Later I changed the thermostat and water pump and fan clutch, which you mentioned you will be changing so you are spot on with those needs. All those parts are actually pretty cheap and you can do them yourself. Heat soak is also a problem in the new model XJs and I wrapped my fuel tube in heat repellent material when I changed the injectors to 4-holes. Haven't had any problems since.
@@ElijahM yes. You would think they are better, but there are many comparison videos showing that they aren't any better than 4 holed ones. And, in my opinion may have more issues down the road if some holes get gunked up. The 4 holed ones are tried and true.
Go with the stock parts and you will be fine. Might go ahead and change the fan clutch with the other work you mentioned. Remember there is an army of companies selling you stuff you “need” for your jeep.😀
You could have a major issue un related to overheating. Stalling and not getting over 40 mph shouldn't be caused by mild over heating. I've had my xj temp gauge pegged and she kept running.
I used to have the same issue with my Jeep. When I first bought it, it would overheat and I realized quickly that it didn’t have an electrical fan. I replaced mine with one I bought from amazon and the problem went away. You can clearly hear the fan turn on whenever the car gets over a certain temperature though, so I would say if you’re not hearing it that’s apart of the problem. Good luck!
Yep it’s definitely an issue if I can barely even spin it by hand lol gonna replace that as well as get the coolant flushed, new water pump, and new thermostat. Thanks for watching!
@@KCars I would just replace the electric fan, that should fix your problem, it fixed mine. if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, I would leave the water pump and thermostat alone. Just a waste of money if you don’t need it. If your gage didn’t even go above the first mark after 210 you should be fine. Mine went into the red before and just replacing the electric fan alone fixed it. Good luck with the Jeep man, been watching since you bought it👍
Thanks for watching man! I just figured since I’m already getting a coolant flush, might as well replace the water pump and thermostat as preventative maintenance. I don’t believe that they have ever been replaced and I think it’s usually a 100k mile thing to do. Also getting the hoses replaced along with the belt and idler. Still keeping the stock radiator though
Where did you get the clips to install the electrical fan. I have a new fan I just can’t keep it mounted because I don’t have the clips with the screws.
Which clips are you referring to? From my experience, all the mounting points were integrated into the fan housing, here’s my install tutorial: czcams.com/video/gNqTPqlh8zY/video.html
Y'all I was having a lot of the same issues, but these straight 6s should keep running even if really hot. Sure if the thing is overheating go ahead and do the thermostat/fan/water pump thing. Simple enough to do and the cooling system components do wear out. But if you are getting heat soak symptoms, like stalling in hot weather, won't start again if you try to start it too soon when running hot, having to crank stop then crank again to start, those are all symptoms of a weak fuel pump. Fuel rail pressure gets too low and the fuel flashes to vapor when even a little over normal operating temperature. Pain in the butt to replace, and the assembly is a bit pricey, but it will fix the problem.
As you mentioned @7:30, the mechanical fan should have some resistance when spun because of the clutch that it's connected to. If the mech fan is spinning freely, it could be a sign that your fan clutch isn't working properly.
My 2001 does that on 110/115 degree days. The dreaded heat soak. It only does it when I'm stuck in traffic. Basically, I just don't drive it when it gets super hot out I don't feel like changing the head and gasket. Cool Jeep BTW
Appreciate it! I actually did a paint correction on it last year, here’s the video on that: czcams.com/video/VKLF3mTOClc/video.html Otherwise I’ve just been taking it to a self serve car wash so nothing too fancy. I also park it out of direct sunlight which helps to preserve the paint.
DEI makes a really nice fuel rail insulation kit for the jeep 4.0 specifically. it really helps on the later 97-01 with the pre cat exhaust to prevent heat soak. also for any other XJ guys out there, the later Efan that has curved blades is an upgrade over the older style straight blade Efans, they move more air quicker.
ZJ clutch on your clutch fan is the only real worth while upgrade since it has less slip then the XJ one so spins the fan faster but it does make allot more wind noise
@@KCars Yeah the stock cooling system is fine overall but if you wheel in allot of sand and mud having that extra airflow definitely does help. Also a real good idea is to install a aux trans cooler like a Hayden 516 or you can even go larger with a 678 for $40 and run the entire trans standalone on that allowing you to remove the trans from sharing thermal mass with the engine in the radiator. The AW4 is a real hot running trans that puts out about the same amount of heat as a XJ so extra cooling goes a long way in keeping it in tip top shape for years to come.
Yes ZJ clutch is the way to go. I put that on both my XJs. They used to run 210 and over, after installed 210 and under. I believe the part number is 272310 it's a Napa part. They are tighter fit and a pain to put in with the shroud but worth it.
I run 160s thermostats,in both of mine less heat in the winter here but I like the cold,and no problems on both my Cherokees,no codes or lights on dash.
On my 92 xj I put a high flow water pump on and a 3 core radiator and 2 electric fans on it. I got rid of the mechanical fan. It has a 180 thermostat and a new head gasket. 12 hole injectors and a stage 1 chip. It’s running mint and I get better fuel mileage and better throttle response
Awesome, I’ve heard of people going with either 4 hole or 12 hole injectors. I still need to do some research on that but it seems like the 12 hole injectors are working out great for you. Thanks for watching!
I can tell you from experience with my 01 XJ with 106k miles that all of this is temporary fixes leading to the inevitable head gasket replacement. I also replaced the stock heads with Clearwater heads, highly recommend doing that over getting the OEMs welded and machined.
Hoping that a head gasket replacement isn’t too near in the future for me. Did you do the head replacement because your stock one cracked or was it just preventive maintenance?
@@KCars the dreaded crack between cylinders 3 and 4. Happened right at 100k for me. Got the fan, radiator and a lot of the cooling components replaced first when I started noticing symptoms in an attempt to avoid it. It will happen though, it seems inevitable with the 97-01s. When it does, I’m telling you get the Clearwater cylinder heads for $600 and don’t bother with the OEM ones. I’ve heard even with proper repair you get another 100K at best.
I hit my bumper end caps with a heat gun - paint side to side, and don't stay in one spot too long, brings them right back to life! Also, consider changing out your seat-belts, I recently was in a car accident with my jeep (totaled it, but found another!) and my seat-belts did not work. I'm currently recovering from a concussion and have a large scar on my forehead from hitting the steering wheel.
A lot of people have recommended the heat gun method for the end caps. I think I’d rather just go ahead and get brand new caps, would make it look more stock and last longer hopefully. Hope your recovery is going well!
I have a question about a 99 Jeep Cherokee sport that I am continuously having overheating problems with. I've chased down all these Usual Suspects and it still overheats. However I was underneath it a few mins ago for another unrelated problem and I noticed that the exhaust pipe coming off the manifold maybe 2 feet down , into the first turn, the exhaust pipe damn sure looked to be mashed ( idk why ) ? I'm thinking surely that's not a factory bend thats closed up like what I'm looking at. It doesnt appear to be crimped but rather mashed in Making the 1st turn off the manifold . Could this have been my overheating problem all along?
I wouldn’t think so but I’m not 100%. I know some exhaust systems come from the factory looking smashed like that but not sure if the XJ is supposed to be like that
Thx for your response. Looking at it closer , It's barely past where the exhaust bolts to the pipes that come off the manifold . Maybe squeezed is a better word . I was jst thinking if it factory it at least looks compromised and would seem to restrict the exhaust air flow and making the engine run hot. I'm gonna have to see a picture of the exhaust system of the 99 Cherokee sport. Thx again sir . Good day .
I’ve heard of a few different methods like the blow torch and rustoleum stuff as well. I think I’m looking for a more permanent solution and getting brand new caps seems like it would look the best. Thanks for watching!
As silly as it may sound - I installed misting nozzles behind the front grille of my ZJ (just as an experiment) it's been running much cooler, as well as the A/C blowing a lot colder.
Test your electric fan. Replace it if it's not working and then add a switch with a relay to be able to turn it on whenever you want but still have its normal function. Easy enough to do and so far for me it seems to have been the fix. You're dealing with heat soak which is vaporizing the gas before it gets to the cylinder. The electric fan works in conjunction with the A.C. and the general cooling system. If those systems have any issues then your fan may not kick in for the extra cooling.
KCars , Pop the electric fans connector to the wiring harness and give it twelve volts to make sure it doesn't work......thinking these don't spin easily by hand. If it doesn't run then replace the fan and consider the auxiliary switch, this should make the jeep drivable while you work out the other systems. Simple on/off switch with the relay and wiring may cost around twenty bucks or so. Procedures for install can be found on CZcams.
Love them. They handle great in snowy conditions considering what people say about using mud tires for snow. They do hum a little when driving on the road but it’s nothing that bothers me at all
The best thing I did for my xj was add a little 10" fan on the front of the radiator and I'm running 37s and tow my boat and everything else with it and it sits at 195 and only gets to 210 if I'm in bumper to bumper traffic.
The bumper end caps on the xj can be brought back to the stock black with a heat gun or blowtorch but if you wanna get rid of any imperfections rustoleum sells a type of spray paint specifically for the xj’s end caps the can has an xj on it you can’t miss it and for a radiator I recommend the mishimoto aluminum radiator it solved my overheating problem and where I live it’s almost always in the 90s
I’ve heard about the blow torch method and the rustoleum stuff as well. I think I’m looking for a more permanent solution and getting brand new caps would look better and more like stock I think. Is the mishimoto radiator a 2 row like the stock ones?
@@KCars ok cool and yea the mishimoto radiator is a 2 row but they designed it to be thicker so it can hold more fluid they explain it with specs and fit ment in the official instal video on CZcams
I would replace the Bell Crank for the hood latch. After doing so, I haven't had any hood latch issues. It's a wonky design at best. Hard to find, had to order from a dealership somewhere in Mass. For cooling the inline 6 in the XJ, replace that water pump with a stock Mopar, new sensor, 195 thermostat, replace radiator and electric fan. Also thermal wrap your fuel rail and injectors to prevent vapor lock. Possibly replace your clutch fan if needed too.
Hood latch seems to be holding up good. I’m getting several of the cooling parts replaced here soon. Just not doing the sensor, radiator and clutch. Should I still replace the temperature sensor and radiator if they seem to be working fine?
@@KCars If they are the original parts from 20 years ago then I would probably do so. I threw in a $100 radiator from Autozone, fairly easy job if all done at once. My 2000 XJ never goes over 210, even a few weeks ago in 93+ degree heat. Also, the new fan is much quieter than the old stock one. Only kicks on at idle in high heat.
That’s the one I’ve been looking at. Any issues with it? I’ve heard the lower radiator hose is blocked off by the trans cooler and wasn’t sure if this is a big deal or not
They need the eltric fan and the mechanical fan plus it pays to put a to a zj fan clutch. I have had great luck with my flow cooler water pump and mishimoto radiator it gets to 110 to 115 where I live and it definitely pays to upgrade these parts for cooling on the xj
Pretty much the same thing going on with my older Jeep.......I changed the air filter replaced the radiator cap ( had noticed it was bad) put in a new thermostat and nothing was helping....but I noticed thick black crud in the tailpipe........so I put a cat cleaner in the gas.....within 2-3 days ,at most,the jeep was running fine again. No more overheating, temp gauge not fluctuating.....everything fine. Can the solution be that simple?? I guess time will tell,if it stays running good!
Good to hear that it’s been running smooth again! I haven’t tried that but fortunately mine hasn’t been giving me any more issues after getting most of the cooling parts replaced. Thanks for watching!
@@KCars BUT YOU KNOW I kind of thought when we're replacing most parts we're just getting rid of carbon gunk!!! wouldnt it just be cheaper to use gas/fuel cleaner first?? and see how the car runs? I dont know but I plan on using some type fuel cleaner maybe twice or 3x a year. See how it goes....as a test.
I dove my 95 ZJ home around 30 miles with the temp pinned and no serpentine belt, got home and put a new belt in her and it was like nothing happened, I bought that Jeep for 400$ from Romanian Gypsies in Queens with no key , so brought my collection of Jeep keys with me and tried a few and boom, she started, got a bunch of high fives and I was out! I’ve never bought a 4.0 that didn’t overheat , a lot of times on XJs the heater core is clogged, single core radiator and inadequate cooling system, I’ve always went with a multi core radiator and 180 thermostat, I suggest you never use factory garbage, always upgrade , and I would have the head gasket done on that one, before it goes
I'll just tell you right now nothing good comes out of Chrysler Just take a look at every single Dodge truck you see, not even old and completely rust it out , I always go with the upgrade part same thing I do with my Harley Davidson there's barely any Harley Davidson left on my Harley Davidson
In 2003 when I had my 1st Cherokee 4 door stick shift I asked the mechanic how long will it run and he answered till Kingdom Come, I've had 4.0 jeeps with bad head gaskets and they actually ran ok , It may not be the most refined motor But they seriously last forever
Coolant is not supposed to regularly be cooking off the hot engine , leaking from the rad or be needing topped off…. That’s a leak, …… seeping hoses, water pump weep hole (there to let you know the water pump seal/bearing is failing internally or head gasket…. Check the coolant mix, 50/50 for most areas…. Rad cap is easy to change. Check your hoses, replace them which allows you to drain most of the coolant to top off with 50/50 coolant/distilled water. While the hoses are off run a garden hose to flush out the rad into a bucket…. If it’s not running good and clear, then rad is done.
Ive only had 2 occurrences of the steaming coolant but it definitely needs to be addressed. I’m getting most of those parts replaced. Water pump, thermostat, hoses, belt, pulley, coolant flush, and probably new radiator too. Thanks for watching!
When my radiator blew on mine I caught it before it ever cooked. Put a new oem radiator in and a 180 to go with it and it’s mint. The 4.0s love the 180 thermostats.
That's sad the cooling wasn't even done well
Good to hear. I’m keeping the stock radiator for now and doing an OEM 195 thermostat
@@roboticvenom1935 the XJ was originally designed for a much smaller GM v6. stuffing a big inline 6, 4.0 motor in them hasnt helped, lol especially the 97-01 models with the dual pre-cats on the factory exhaust manifold. i run a stock, but all brand new cooling system, except for a 160 thermostat with a burp hole drilled in the top, and a ZJ clutch fan upgrade. i run 180-190 on the hottest days with my ac on. i flush mine every spring and fall.
What tires?
Procomp xtreme mt2 31x10.5
That should be the first thing you do when you got the Jeep is replaced the cooling systems and go with stock parts. Jeep engineers knew what they were doing. GL and have fun the ur XJ!
Yep finally getting around to it. Sticking with all genuine mopar parts for this. Thanks for watching!
I used an autozone replacement fan by Dorman, been working for 2 years now. Go all stock and you will be fine. If you get the radiator flushed make sure and I mean make sure they flush the heater core. They are notorious for getting clogged with rust.
Ended up ordering an Omix fan, hoping it’ll last a good amount of time too
Great looking XJ. I own a 98 TJ I6 and my temp gauge fluctuates from a little below 210 to a little above 210 which is normal. 👍🏻
Thanks! I’d like to get a TJ sometime as well
First thing I did with my XJ when I bought it at 150K milage was replace the radiator and flush the coolant. Later I changed the thermostat and water pump and fan clutch, which you mentioned you will be changing so you are spot on with those needs. All those parts are actually pretty cheap and you can do them yourself. Heat soak is also a problem in the new model XJs and I wrapped my fuel tube in heat repellent material when I changed the injectors to 4-holes. Haven't had any problems since.
have you heard of the 12 hole injectors? and how much improvement have you seen with the 4 hole?
Ya I’m pretty much doing everything except for replacing the radiator. Not sure if I need to yet or not but we’ll find out sooner than later😂
@@ElijahM yes. You would think they are better, but there are many comparison videos showing that they aren't any better than 4 holed ones. And, in my opinion may have more issues down the road if some holes get gunked up. The 4 holed ones are tried and true.
Just got a moshimoto radiator and triple cooling fan and leather stone guard for under radiator not installed yet. Going to save up for installation.😊
Go with the stock parts and you will be fine.
Might go ahead and change the fan clutch with the other work you mentioned.
Remember there is an army of companies selling you stuff you “need” for your jeep.😀
I thought about also doing the clutch but it seems to still be good
You could have a major issue un related to overheating. Stalling and not getting over 40 mph shouldn't be caused by mild over heating. I've had my xj temp gauge pegged and she kept running.
It has only happened after it went a little above 210 and not any other time. Haven’t had the issue ever since I got all the cooling parts replaced
I used to have the same issue with my Jeep. When I first bought it, it would overheat and I realized quickly that it didn’t have an electrical fan. I replaced mine with one I bought from amazon and the problem went away. You can clearly hear the fan turn on whenever the car gets over a certain temperature though, so I would say if you’re not hearing it that’s apart of the problem. Good luck!
Yep it’s definitely an issue if I can barely even spin it by hand lol gonna replace that as well as get the coolant flushed, new water pump, and new thermostat. Thanks for watching!
@@KCars I would just replace the electric fan, that should fix your problem, it fixed mine. if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, I would leave the water pump and thermostat alone. Just a waste of money if you don’t need it. If your gage didn’t even go above the first mark after 210 you should be fine. Mine went into the red before and just replacing the electric fan alone fixed it. Good luck with the Jeep man, been watching since you bought it👍
Thanks for watching man! I just figured since I’m already getting a coolant flush, might as well replace the water pump and thermostat as preventative maintenance. I don’t believe that they have ever been replaced and I think it’s usually a 100k mile thing to do. Also getting the hoses replaced along with the belt and idler. Still keeping the stock radiator though
Where did you get the clips to install the electrical fan. I have a new fan I just can’t keep it mounted because I don’t have the clips with the screws.
Which clips are you referring to? From my experience, all the mounting points were integrated into the fan housing, here’s my install tutorial: czcams.com/video/gNqTPqlh8zY/video.html
Check the mechanical fan clutch. They are often in bad shaped after 20 some years. It can cost miles per gallon if it is stuck engaged always.
Y'all I was having a lot of the same issues, but these straight 6s should keep running even if really hot. Sure if the thing is overheating go ahead and do the thermostat/fan/water pump thing. Simple enough to do and the cooling system components do wear out. But if you are getting heat soak symptoms, like stalling in hot weather, won't start again if you try to start it too soon when running hot, having to crank stop then crank again to start, those are all symptoms of a weak fuel pump. Fuel rail pressure gets too low and the fuel flashes to vapor when even a little over normal operating temperature. Pain in the butt to replace, and the assembly is a bit pricey, but it will fix the problem.
Hmmm never thought of that I’ll have to look into that
As you mentioned @7:30, the mechanical fan should have some resistance when spun because of the clutch that it's connected to. If the mech fan is spinning freely, it could be a sign that your fan clutch isn't working properly.
Yup, luckily my mechanical fan was good just the electric fan was the problem
i would love to know specs of your rims and tires
My 2001 does that on 110/115 degree days. The dreaded heat soak. It only does it when I'm stuck in traffic. Basically, I just don't drive it when it gets super hot out I don't feel like changing the head and gasket. Cool Jeep BTW
Ya that’s basically what I’ve been trying to do. Avoid driving it when it’s super hot. Thanks!
Absolutely love hot perfect the paint is do you detail/wash it yourself and if you do what do you use I would love for mine to look this good.
Appreciate it! I actually did a paint correction on it last year, here’s the video on that: czcams.com/video/VKLF3mTOClc/video.html
Otherwise I’ve just been taking it to a self serve car wash so nothing too fancy. I also park it out of direct sunlight which helps to preserve the paint.
@@KCars Thanks definitely gonna try that
@@CodyDickinson-to7gl sweet!
DEI makes a really nice fuel rail insulation kit for the jeep 4.0 specifically. it really helps on the later 97-01 with the pre cat exhaust to prevent heat soak. also for any other XJ guys out there, the later Efan that has curved blades is an upgrade over the older style straight blade Efans, they move more air quicker.
I’ll have to look into that. Supposed to be receiving my new fan today. Thanks for watching!
ZJ clutch on your clutch fan is the only real worth while upgrade since it has less slip then the XJ one so spins the fan faster but it does make allot more wind noise
For now I’m keeping the stock clutch on there. Doesn’t seem like there’s anything wrong with it
@@KCars Yeah the stock cooling system is fine overall but if you wheel in allot of sand and mud having that extra airflow definitely does help. Also a real good idea is to install a aux trans cooler like a Hayden 516 or you can even go larger with a 678 for $40 and run the entire trans standalone on that allowing you to remove the trans from sharing thermal mass with the engine in the radiator. The AW4 is a real hot running trans that puts out about the same amount of heat as a XJ so extra cooling goes a long way in keeping it in tip top shape for years to come.
I’ll need to look into the trans cooler, several people have recommended that to me, thanks!
Yes ZJ clutch is the way to go. I put that on both my XJs. They used to run 210 and over, after installed 210 and under. I believe the part number is 272310 it's a Napa part. They are tighter fit and a pain to put in with the shroud but worth it.
I run 160s thermostats,in both of mine less heat in the winter here but I like the cold,and no problems on both my Cherokees,no codes or lights on dash.
That’s good to hear
On my 92 xj I put a high flow water pump on and a 3 core radiator and 2 electric fans on it. I got rid of the mechanical fan. It has a 180 thermostat and a new head gasket. 12 hole injectors and a stage 1 chip. It’s running mint and I get better fuel mileage and better throttle response
Awesome, I’ve heard of people going with either 4 hole or 12 hole injectors. I still need to do some research on that but it seems like the 12 hole injectors are working out great for you. Thanks for watching!
hi nice car, what size wheels do you have? have you lifted the car? thanks
Thanks! Wheels are 15x8 and it has a 3 inch lift
I can tell you from experience with my 01 XJ with 106k miles that all of this is temporary fixes leading to the inevitable head gasket replacement. I also replaced the stock heads with Clearwater heads, highly recommend doing that over getting the OEMs welded and machined.
Hoping that a head gasket replacement isn’t too near in the future for me. Did you do the head replacement because your stock one cracked or was it just preventive maintenance?
@@KCars the dreaded crack between cylinders 3 and 4. Happened right at 100k for me. Got the fan, radiator and a lot of the cooling components replaced first when I started noticing symptoms in an attempt to avoid it. It will happen though, it seems inevitable with the 97-01s. When it does, I’m telling you get the Clearwater cylinder heads for $600 and don’t bother with the OEM ones. I’ve heard even with proper repair you get another 100K at best.
Ya I’d definitely rather get brand new heads instead of repairing the original ones
I hit my bumper end caps with a heat gun - paint side to side, and don't stay in one spot too long, brings them right back to life! Also, consider changing out your seat-belts, I recently was in a car accident with my jeep (totaled it, but found another!) and my seat-belts did not work. I'm currently recovering from a concussion and have a large scar on my forehead from hitting the steering wheel.
A lot of people have recommended the heat gun method for the end caps. I think I’d rather just go ahead and get brand new caps, would make it look more stock and last longer hopefully. Hope your recovery is going well!
I have a question about a 99 Jeep Cherokee sport that I am continuously having overheating problems with. I've chased down all these Usual Suspects and it still overheats. However I was underneath it a few mins ago for another unrelated problem and I noticed that the exhaust pipe coming off the manifold maybe 2 feet down , into the first turn, the exhaust pipe damn sure looked to be mashed ( idk why ) ?
I'm thinking surely that's not a factory bend thats closed up like what I'm looking at. It doesnt appear to be crimped but rather mashed in Making the 1st turn off the manifold .
Could this have been my overheating problem all along?
I wouldn’t think so but I’m not 100%. I know some exhaust systems come from the factory looking smashed like that but not sure if the XJ is supposed to be like that
Thx for your response. Looking at it closer , It's barely past where the exhaust bolts to the pipes that come off the manifold . Maybe
squeezed is a better word . I was jst thinking if it factory it at least looks compromised and would seem to restrict the exhaust air flow and making the engine run hot. I'm gonna have to see a picture of the exhaust system of the 99 Cherokee sport. Thx again sir . Good day .
@@randybonner9870 hmm could be a possibility. Thanks for watching!
You can take a rag with some oil on it and rub those faded bumper end caps to make them nice and black again.
I’ve heard of a few different methods like the blow torch and rustoleum stuff as well. I think I’m looking for a more permanent solution and getting brand new caps seems like it would look the best. Thanks for watching!
As silly as it may sound - I installed misting nozzles behind the front grille of my ZJ (just as an experiment) it's been running much cooler, as well as the A/C blowing a lot colder.
Hmm🤔
Buy a heat gun and bring the black back out on your bumper ends
I would use ceramic coating
Ya I’ve looked at the cerakote products as well. Definitely seems like a good option too
Test your electric fan. Replace it if it's not working and then add a switch with a relay to be able to turn it on whenever you want but still have its normal function. Easy enough to do and so far for me it seems to have been the fix. You're dealing with heat soak which is vaporizing the gas before it gets to the cylinder. The electric fan works in conjunction with the A.C. and the general cooling system. If those systems have any issues then your fan may not kick in for the extra cooling.
Yep the fan definitely needs to be replaced, I can barely get it to spin when I try by hand
KCars , Pop the electric fans connector to the wiring harness and give it twelve volts to make sure it doesn't work......thinking these don't spin easily by hand. If it doesn't run then replace the fan and consider the auxiliary switch, this should make the jeep drivable while you work out the other systems. Simple on/off switch with the relay and wiring may cost around twenty bucks or so. Procedures for install can be found on CZcams.
How are you liking those tyres? Are they noisey?
Love them. They handle great in snowy conditions considering what people say about using mud tires for snow. They do hum a little when driving on the road but it’s nothing that bothers me at all
@@KCars thanks, I don’t get snow where I live but I like chunky looking tyres. The noise gets a little much at times is all.
Then ya these tires definitely have that chunky and aggressive look if that’s what you want
The best thing I did for my xj was add a little 10" fan on the front of the radiator and I'm running 37s and tow my boat and everything else with it and it sits at 195 and only gets to 210 if I'm in bumper to bumper traffic.
More air flow definitely helps
The bumper end caps on the xj can be brought back to the stock black with a heat gun or blowtorch but if you wanna get rid of any imperfections rustoleum sells a type of spray paint specifically for the xj’s end caps the can has an xj on it you can’t miss it and for a radiator I recommend the mishimoto aluminum radiator it solved my overheating problem and where I live it’s almost always in the 90s
I’ve heard about the blow torch method and the rustoleum stuff as well. I think I’m looking for a more permanent solution and getting brand new caps would look better and more like stock I think. Is the mishimoto radiator a 2 row like the stock ones?
@@KCars ok cool and yea the mishimoto radiator is a 2 row but they designed it to be thicker so it can hold more fluid they explain it with specs and fit ment in the official instal video on CZcams
Hmmm I might need to look into that in the future if I need to replace it. Thanks!
@@KCars no problem love your videos man 👍
Nice color
Thanks!
I would replace the Bell Crank for the hood latch. After doing so, I haven't had any hood latch issues. It's a wonky design at best. Hard to find, had to order from a dealership somewhere in Mass. For cooling the inline 6 in the XJ, replace that water pump with a stock Mopar, new sensor, 195 thermostat, replace radiator and electric fan. Also thermal wrap your fuel rail and injectors to prevent vapor lock. Possibly replace your clutch fan if needed too.
Hood latch seems to be holding up good. I’m getting several of the cooling parts replaced here soon. Just not doing the sensor, radiator and clutch. Should I still replace the temperature sensor and radiator if they seem to be working fine?
@@KCars If they are the original parts from 20 years ago then I would probably do so. I threw in a $100 radiator from Autozone, fairly easy job if all done at once. My 2000 XJ never goes over 210, even a few weeks ago in 93+ degree heat. Also, the new fan is much quieter than the old stock one. Only kicks on at idle in high heat.
Is that the spectra radiator?
@@KCars yes sir, that's the one.
That’s the one I’ve been looking at. Any issues with it? I’ve heard the lower radiator hose is blocked off by the trans cooler and wasn’t sure if this is a big deal or not
the mehanical fan is supposed to have tension. If it spins freely ou probably wanna replace it. yours is good. the electrical on is obviously broken
Appreciate it. Gonna leave the stock clutch in there for now and replace the electric fan
Character In the video It's great, I like it a lot $$
They need the eltric fan and the mechanical fan plus it pays to put a to a zj fan clutch. I have had great luck with my flow cooler water pump and mishimoto radiator it gets to 110 to 115 where I live and it definitely pays to upgrade these parts for cooling on the xj
Replaced the electric fan last week and doing the rest of the cooling parts next week. Any fitment issues with the mishimoto radiator?
Pretty much the same thing going on with my older Jeep.......I changed the air filter replaced the radiator cap ( had noticed it was bad) put in a new thermostat and nothing was helping....but I noticed thick black crud in the tailpipe........so I put a cat cleaner in the gas.....within 2-3 days ,at most,the jeep was running fine again. No more overheating, temp gauge not fluctuating.....everything fine. Can the solution be that simple?? I guess time will tell,if it stays running good!
Good to hear that it’s been running smooth again! I haven’t tried that but fortunately mine hasn’t been giving me any more issues after getting most of the cooling parts replaced. Thanks for watching!
@@KCars BUT YOU KNOW I kind of thought when we're replacing most parts we're just getting rid of carbon gunk!!! wouldnt it just be cheaper to use gas/fuel cleaner first?? and see how the car runs? I dont know but I plan on using some type fuel cleaner maybe twice or 3x a year. See how it goes....as a test.
@@laragreene8328 true that’s probably part of it🤷🏼♂️
BY ALL MEANS RADIATOR CAP, Sweet Jeep. I wish I had it.
Thanks!
I dove my 95 ZJ home around 30 miles with the temp pinned and no serpentine belt, got home and put a new belt in her and it was like nothing happened, I bought that Jeep for 400$ from Romanian Gypsies in Queens with no key , so brought my collection of Jeep keys with me and tried a few and boom, she started, got a bunch of high fives and I was out! I’ve never bought a 4.0 that didn’t overheat , a lot of times on XJs the heater core is clogged, single core radiator and inadequate cooling system, I’ve always went with a multi core radiator and 180 thermostat, I suggest you never use factory garbage, always upgrade , and I would have the head gasket done on that one, before it goes
I went with genuine mopar parts and haven’t had any issues. I agree the head gasket is something that I need to look out for as well
I'll just tell you right now nothing good comes out of Chrysler Just take a look at every single Dodge truck you see, not even old and completely rust it out , I always go with the upgrade part same thing I do with my Harley Davidson there's barely any Harley Davidson left on my Harley Davidson
Might be rusty but they’re still running🤷🏼♂️
In 2003 when I had my 1st Cherokee 4 door stick shift I asked the mechanic how long will it run and he answered till Kingdom Come, I've had 4.0 jeeps with bad head gaskets and they actually ran ok , It may not be the most refined motor But they seriously last forever
I believe it
Coolant is not supposed to regularly be cooking off the hot engine , leaking from the rad or be needing topped off…. That’s a leak, …… seeping hoses, water pump weep hole (there to let you know the water pump seal/bearing is failing internally or head gasket…. Check the coolant mix, 50/50 for most areas…. Rad cap is easy to change. Check your hoses, replace them which allows you to drain most of the coolant to top off with 50/50 coolant/distilled water. While the hoses are off run a garden hose to flush out the rad into a bucket…. If it’s not running good and clear, then rad is done.
Ive only had 2 occurrences of the steaming coolant but it definitely needs to be addressed. I’m getting most of those parts replaced. Water pump, thermostat, hoses, belt, pulley, coolant flush, and probably new radiator too. Thanks for watching!
Boy she really looks great, all washed and waxed
Thanks!
When smoke start coming out your back grill...watch out!
What’s a back grille?
E fan, coolant flush, maybe temp sensor on the tstat housing but most likely WATER PUMP!
Yep, got all that done except the temp sensor and it hasn’t overheated at all
Mate it's the senser, change that and it will be fixed.
Replaced some cooling parts and it’s fixed, same sensor
Im way past that problem
Sounds like heat soak to me
Hopefully replacing most of the cooling parts will fix the issues
Mishimoto time
Still keeping the stock radiator unless I need to actually get a new one
Character In the video It's great, I like it a lot $$