Unboxing my Victorian Clothing Haul : antiques with secrets
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- I recently won three antique coats at an auction which turned out to be full of secrets and surprises! They have dramatically different makers, styles, and materials ranging from department store mass-production to actual French couture. How different are they inside? Can we tell the difference in quality? The Victorian and Edwardian eras are known from some pretty extreme fashion after all.
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00:00 Labels & History
08:34 1908 Department Store
18:32 1894 Baltimore Tailor
27:10 1898 French Couture - Jak na to + styl
"not in the best condition, but glitters nonetheless" is a quote for an inspirational poster of some kind, for sure
That's definately how I'd like to be described! 😀
I remember the sign on a vending machine:
“Working but temperamental”
I have my new personal motto.
I love that the department store one is basically similar to modern fast fashion: flashy, looks good in store, but in the end a simple pattern and relatively shoddily made.
Oh Boy. Have you ever sewn a garment like that ? Somehow I doubt it.....
@@juliagoodfellow7539What's your point? Nicole commented on the fact that the sewing seemed sloppy
Ready to wear lies at the root of fast fashion. It’s interesting how it can be dated so closely by the fashion plates, which confirms the rapid overturn of fast fashion styles.
Uhhh, No. You have never worn good clothes if you confuse age with shoddy makes. Department store clothes were excellent quality until we were saddled with Chinese manufacture. Fast fashion is the garbage in malls today that doesn’t last a year, much less a century.
Try to remember, the comparison here is couture sewing. Conflating any of this with the garbage clothes today is absurd.
@@elizabethclaiborne6461 A) You don't know my life or my experiences with tailoring/sewing/clothing buying/thrifting/knitting. You don't have to come for me, seriously, that was uncalled for.
B) Relatively in my original statement is carrying an admitendly very large weight. Also, those people making fast fashion, they are very hardworking and talented, they just do not get paid enough or get any time.
The beading on that jacketttttt 🤩 It must have looked gorgeous when the beads were black, but I love the look with a sorta "gunmetal" bead 😍I may have to use a similar pattern on a cape I'll be making soon!
Aww, I love when y'all's streams cross, so to speak, and I see you on each other's comment section! ☺️
I was thinking the same - navy and silver is even more of an eye-catching combo than the navy and black would have been. I too can see some embellishments in my future!
It is so Cool to find you in the comments! I must say, the one with ALL THE BEADS is definitely you.
Do it
this is so cool but also i cant help but think about the ghost of that poor tailor watching his work be analyzed seam by seam like it's a high end cosplay contest. scary XD
Oh, I've been doing some more in depth projects lately in which I have had lengthy rants to long dead tailors for doing silly things.
The second coat Mrs Lottie's That fur is hand plucked beaver 🦫 pelts.... The collar however is K9 fox/wolf/coyote it's hard to tell because most people use the breast fur which looks the same on all 3. I can do a short video explaining furs and how to add them if you're interested I have remnants of K9s and feline so you can see the difference between them,
in Iowa, we use furs alot because we like to remember our lovely animals, even tho most people don't like it, we don't hunt/trape we raise and love
Please share your fur knowledge!!
And it looks dyed. To my very unknowlegdable eyes. Simply with the parts of it being very orangy in places where there would be a lot of wear and tear, and that makes sense. And also why it would be in better condition than others. Of course, dying anything is 50/50 of destroying it faster or it staying as intended longer. Especially 100 years ago. Outside of someone taking great care with and of it: storing, wearing, etc.
That is definitely beaver. I have a beaver cape that supposedly came over on the Oregon Trail. Recognized it immediately. Hadn't caught the difference in the collar though! Thank you for sharing.
you raise the animals to kill them for their fur or raise them and take the fur after they die naturally?
Seeing the inner workings of historic garments definitely makes me feel better about my own sewing and hand stitching! I'm such a perfectionist I'm always wondering if each stich is perfect enough. The answer is, yes. Absolutely good enough. Now I hope someday a hundred years from now, someone like Nicole will take the time to care.
I love how excited Nicole gets about wear and tear!
And she calls her coats "she". Love that.
The beading on the couture jacket… slays me. I am obsessed. So gorgeous. Almost makes me want to do some beading on one of my jackets.
Why not ?
Right? It's gorgeous, oh my goodness.
@@juliagoodfellow7539 Bead embroidery is its own craft, and mastery takes years of practice. That said, why not start with simple bead embroidered earrings or a bracelet, perhaps an applique?
As someone who always wears a black hoodie, black t-shirt and black cargoes; I love texture, colours and details on these three coats. This is such a fun and interesting channel.
I love this channel, despite the fact I haven't even dressed up in *modern* clothes since I lived in Vegas over a decade ago 😅
I worked at Carson's in the 1990s. It was a good work culture, and I won a year's supply (which lasted much longer with care) of Hanes black tights for selling the most Hanes hosiery. In its heyday, it was a really nice store even in the outer Chicago suburbs where we were. The flagship store was beautiful and so fun to shop.
I grew up shopping at the one in Orland. So sad when it closed.
I feel like Nicole should borrow a endoscope and make a detective story by going in through the gaps.
It never occurred to me, but wear and tear is such a good opportunity to examine the inner workings of a vintage garment without doing additional damage. Are you planning on making replicas of any (or all) of these three coats? I am a fan of appropriate (as in not going crazy with a bedazzling tool) beading and embroidery, thus one vote here for the replicating the French Couture version, but maybe without (real or fake) fur and less feathers?
The beaded one must have been a beauty in its time, but all three are pretty amazing
That department store building is gorgeous😍 Its crazy to think its just a regular shop now.
It was wonderful to shop in, too.
Dieulafait is also just a French family name! It may not necessarily be specific for the couture house... but of course, if you have a name like that, it's good to use it 😂
Those corky names sometimes from orphanages managed by the church, where the abandoned kids were brought. The nuns gave them made-up last names since they ignored their origins.
These are fantastic! When I was young I had a growth spurt from one Winter to the next, my mother cut off the bottom of my "fur" coat & fashioned sleeve cuffs to accommodate my longer arms. I'm curious what someone like you would have to say if they came across it now, 60+ years later. She was not a seamstress by any means but she did a beautiful job & I was thrilled to wear it & felt so grown up in it! I believe it was really a super plush velvet/velour.
As we learned about American Civil War clothing for reenacting, a common refrain was, “children grow up, not out.” All of the rows of pintucks were so parents could buy/make a garment once and then undo a row as the kids got taller. So your Mom was continuing a historical trend!
I wasn't expecting a Carson's shoutout when I clicked this video lol - the State Street Target is so jarring and terrible also it's true. If anyone has to make conversation with a Chicagoland-area woman above a certain age a surefire way is to bring up the closures of Carson's and Marshall Field's. It was all anyone's mom and grandma could talk about in the mid-00s and they're still mad, trust.
I'm still grieving for those great stores.
Only 30-something and I’m still mad!
I would love it if you could one day talk about handling and caring for historical garments - gloves, boxes, tissues, mounting...
I think she DID do a video on that ? Or was it @abbycox ?!
I can't remember either, but I know they have both generally discussed it (often together!). As I'm writing this, tho, I'm thinking it WAS Abby that did a proper video 🤔
@LadyRebeccaFashions has a video titled 'How I Store and Organize My Antique Garment Collection' which you might be interested in!
I'm pretty sure it was Abby because I remember her ranting about people insisting she use gloves while handling old garments and she goes off saying that gloves actually damage the clothing more than bare hands.
4:16 I love to look up the purchasing power of money in days gone by, and a quick Google search brought up that $1 in 1893 had the purchasing power that $33.90 does in 2023. $5000 in 1893 is equivalent to about $169,500 today. That's a hefty chunk of change! 💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰
Holy shit. Even if go all designer clothes today, that's a lot of clothes.
I’m sure it’s a standard luggage packing for a Kardashian or Paris Hilton.
Garment reviews are my favorite videos and reviews by Nicole and Abby are the best. What an incredible purchase. As an undergrad, I worked part-time at the downtown Carson store. I was lucky to walk through the store daily. Louis Sullivan, a founder of the Praire School of Architecture, designed it. Carson was a high-end store along with Marshall Fields; each produced store-brand clothing.
When I studied Louis Sullivan in college, the Carson, Pirie Scott building was my favorite.
the fur on that fur-trimmed coat might be belgian rabbit. my great-grandmother had a coat of it in the 1940s (it even has the 'storage instructions' tag still with it including the hilarious tip of 'don't let your dog near this coat'!) and it looks remarkably similar to that, though I'm not an expert either lol
woah! i visted chicago a few months ago and saw that target and remember thinking, gosh, i wonder what used to be in there? so cool to learn that it was carson pirie scott & co, and to see something that was sold there!
I do love these types of videos. Its like archaeology for clothing.
Imagining my great grandmother, a fashionable Chicagoan at the turn of the last century, bustling through the fabulous entrance of Carson Pirie Scott & Co. on State Street, past the counters full of glamorous hats and jewellery to the ladies department, and picking out a coat just like that! ❤️
As someone who's getting back into sewing after several years, it's been great to watch your videos. I especially enjoyed how you examined these coats and talked about some of the little interesting things about them. I really love the look of that last one, definitely a head turner.
The beaded jacket is a stunner! Thanks for taking us through construction.
If only modern day coats and jackets actually gave you enough room to put clothes underneath them.
I find this serendipitous. I've lost weight recently, and need a new fall sweater. So I decided to sew my own and do some history bounding with it. I bought a 80s pattern for the coat, as it was closest to what I wanted, as I prefer duster lengths. I was stuck on what to do about the sleeves. This has been a very helpful though unintentional tutorial.I also desperately need to learn to sew collars. So thank you for this video!
My first job was at Carson Pirie Scott! Oh, my heart. Beautiful pieces. Stunning!
Hi, fellow Carsonite! Early to mid 90s in West Dundee. What store were you at?
@@maryeckel9682 92-94 Roseville, MN. Best memory was everything in the store for $1 when one closed downtown. My then boyfriend was the stocker and saw the signs so prepared me, I was waiting when the bell rang. I bought about 300 pieces that I resold and paid for Northwestern!
Omg the Carson Pirie Scott on State street is now a Target?!? Nooooooo!
IKR
It's so interesting hearing you talk through your thoughts on the construction, and it's so sweet how you use she/her pronouns when talking about the jackets. It feels almost like being introduced to someone's nan through some old photos. Great video :)
I would love to see a recreation of that second one! It's so pretty and fairly practical! They're all beautiful in their own ways, but that one is my favorite. 🥰
I have actually been in the old Carson pirie Scott that is now a target and it is as jarring an experience as you would think. The interior is completely remodeled and visually identical to any other target and the only part that kept the original look is the exterior/doors. It looks really weird from the outside because (from what I can remember) most of the storefront the whole way down the block is windows/glass doors and you can see the target red and white branding/interior through the ornate black frames and fixtures on the outside.
I love it when u guys ( u and Abbey) show us antique clothing. What beautiful coats🥰!!
I love the black beaded jacket.
By some fluke I used to have a few historical pieces, but they had shattered silk. I ended up throwing them out. Now I feel sick about it. I think I even had a civil war coat. But the shed they were in, leaked. I was younger and didn't have the knowlege to restore them.
I love when Nicole shares with us the insides of historical garments in her collection. Fascinating! 👀
Thank you for sharing! I recently sewed a pin into a narrow hem of a mid-calf dress. It took some blustery north sea gusts of wind to make me realise this. Fortunately the weave of the cotton was loose enough to extract it on the go. I had a muff from my grandmother, sadly I knew nothing about the history of dress so I tossed it, when it began to shed. Family lore had it that it was made of mole. Totally different colour from your fur trimmed coat, but the sheen reminded me of that muff.
I don't know if I'm explaining this right, but I love the way you talk about the garments with such love and respect for the people who made them.
We call it the goth Target!
Goth target would have made a beautiful library
Three very handsome coats that you can examine at your leisure - a treasure.
The 1st ready to wear coat was very surprising how much work went into it would cost over $2000 to make it today. The 2nd was so nice really would have kept her WARM and stylish for many years! My favorite and yours #3 is a WOW WOW WOW, it is beautiful and a TREASURE even in that condition I love it! Thank you for showing us all the special details each coat and its construction,
These are amazing!!!! I love seeing them through your eyes - especially with your knowledge of their "innards" hehe
This is a fascinating video and a great haul. It is a great look at the construction of each coat and the beading on the custom one is amazing!!! It made me wonder how I could make a modern day coat using some of the better techniques shown there. I liked the inner linings of flannel and other fabrics. Thank you for showing us this.
I can’t believe Nicole is not designing for movies. Her knowledge & skill is amazing. So fun to watch these videos!!
I really love the beading on the couture coat, and the very dark blue is splendid! Thank you very much for all the tailoring details, very interesting!
Wonderful video with so much information. No one does this like you do! TFS❣️❣️
I love learning from you and Abby in videos like this. I can’t wait until you guys sell some patterns.
Please consider doing a video on how ww1 and ww2 changed women’s fashion!
They are gorgeous!!! I especially love the dark blue jacket with the beading. It must have been stunning when new!
Such beautiful coats! I wish we knew something about who originally owned them.
Your channel is excellent. Your knowlege and expertise is unimpeachable. So humbly, I beseech you, to allow me to pick a very petty nit: There is no t in the word across.
Keep the aspadisteras flying.❤
It's a regional dialect pronunciation that happens when "across" runs into "the" and the movement of the mouth to transition. There's plenty of usage of the term "acrost" or "acrossed" in historical documents as well, so it's not a new thing (in fact evidence shows it may be an antiquated pronunciation since we had "st" on the end of quite a few words long ago)
@@NicoleRudolphinteresting. I hear quite a few American utubers use it.
I also say acrossed or acrost. Certainly makes more sense than when Brits say, “she’s doing poorly.” She’s doing WHAT poorly?!”
It's aspidistra
These coats are so gorgeous! i love that deep dive into their construction so much. Also love your shirt! The cuffs and sleeves are amazing
The beaded coat is beyond stunning! Thanks for sharing!
Maybe the one with fur trim survived because the coat was in fur storage every year (along with its owner's other furs).
Very interesting from a history standpoint. I really enjoy the deep depth discovery of how the garments were made. And thanks to previous videos I know what it means for silk fabric to shatter. I'm looking forward to seeing if these discoveries will make it into future garment projects!
Hi Nicole! Have been following you for only a month and really enjoy your videos about sewing and shoemaking! This week my brother have uncovered a box of old shoemaker's tools, and by coincidence I knew what some of the tools were used for since I been watching your videos! The hammer was monogrammed by my ancestor, but... we have two, father and son with the same initials, one born 1838 and the other 1884... Well, the mystery continues!
Thank you! A blast from the past!
haven't even watched it yet and my day is already made, yay you have a new video!
My guess for the fur on the second coat is beaver.
Congrats on winning these! Thanks for the detailed look. The beaded one is just beyond stunning!
That beaded jacket is gorgeous, I would wear it now!
LOVE your surgical explorations of these garments!
So, so interesting! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
They are all stunning!
Thank you for sharing this! I loooove to look inside of garments, whether they are old or new 😊
Thank you for showing these pretties ! I'm learning so much how to make good coats from watching these !
Thank you for taking us through each of these garments, they each had their own beauty.
I almost wonder if the dirst one was made up for a Jew? I wonder specifically because it was made with cotton flannel rather than wool, and then had linen tape as stabilizers in various places. There is a practice among many sects of Jews to avoid wearing linen and wool in a single garment. There was also a question that this garment might have been made up to order rather than the basic ready to wear. So such a substitution might more easily have been made under such a circumstance.
Very good point!
We wouldn’t have used the linen tape. It can’t be in the same garment, so it would have been a cotton tape. It could be worn with a linen shirt or dress, though. I have to buy cotton tailoring supplies or use silk organza. For simplicity, I just don’t buy linen tailoring supplies.
Got to wondering about winter coat/warmth. After all they didn't have thinsulate and windblocking nylon in the 1890s...Abby did video on victorian corsets and heat.
What about dressing for the weather all year long...
I’ve seen some interesting videos discussing the cold weather gear of 19th century Western mountaineers. Everest, Eiger and other extreme (uninhabitable) locations. I mention them in contrast because humanity has been casually inhabiting freezing locals for millennia. Fur coats. Down and cotton stuffed coats (I think maybe also pine straw?). Wool capes and cloaks. Silk as a foundation layer to trap heat. Layer, layer, layer your clothing. Wool can be wet and still maintain heat trapping qualities. Oilcloth is wonderful at preventing wind penetration. I love my Aussie Outback coat! The best set of gloves I ever had was a pair of supple leather work gloves over a pair of knit wool gloves.
I highly recommend asking anyone over the age of 40 how they dealt with Old Man Winter. We could be clever!
These are stunning, definitely a beautiful find! Thanks for showing them!
The beads stayed in the coat, I would love to know how they were seen on. I am more careful than a factoryworke
GOSH!!!! How fabulous! I have seen lots of the Ensembles the Auction House has posted but getting to look deep into these and the History ..HER-story of each piece is fascinating!
Lovely couture's Ms.Nicole...and detail explaining ...you are always perfect detailing them
Fantastic video ! Think on # 3 it is ostrich feathers on it.
Stunning! I love this!
One of my absolute favourite videos of yours
Thank you for sharing these insights.
Fascinating. Now, how will you be storing them? Is that a possible video?
I shopped at Carson's (which is how we referred to that store), until it closed. In it's day, if you wanted a really nice dress, suit, coat, we either went to Marshall Field's or Carson's. People came from all around the Midwest, to shop at those two stores. When I was working, I bought many skirted suits there, especially by the designer, Evan Piccone, before it sold out to someone else and they decided that cheap polyester was the way to go. Carson's quality had dropped alot over the last 10 years of the store and I really think that is why it ultimately had to close. The merger with Bergman's, can't remember that name well, didn't help either. Very sad and I miss both stores very much.
Stunning pieces! I love all the hand stitching
Fascinating! Thank you.. so knowledgeable
Your videos are so lovely and calming 💖
Fun little "bonus" hearing about a local businesswoman - and such an interesting one at that! In doing further reading on her, I found her sister took over the business once she passed but all mention of the store disappears shortly after the following season. Also realized I drive by two of Lottie's old shop locations on a weekly basis and will have to see if I can find one of her pieces during my next vintage search.
The fur on that Baltimore coat looks like seal...maybe. My mother had a sealskin coat from the 40's.
I would love to know how the beads were sewn on.
Birdy
That’s 178k in clothes alone!! What a work trip!
OMG, them gems…
Think of Bette Davis in « The little foxes » with the beaded one…
Thank you sm!!!🥰🥰🥰
This is just total spitballing from someone with no experience in this, but who just grew up in an old house with old people and goes to a lot of estate sales: I wonder if maybe the Baltimore Tailor coat was still in the family's "rotation" of coats long after it was fashionable, kept in a closet instead of an attic or long storage, occasionally getting upkeep done to keep the fur from getting messy, maybe only being taken out for very special occassions. It's simple enough but elegant enough that i don't think it would have completely fallen out of fashion in a way that looked dated, it reminds me in overall taste of later decades, like the fur reminds me of a lot of coats i see at estate sales, the shape probably would have still seemed acceptable in the early 20th century, etc. Maybe it's in such good shape because of that. That's just a wild guess though, based mainly on the fact that i could see my 1930s-born grandmother patching that right up and wearing it for "better," the same way she would continue using 19th century tools she acquired over the years
Listening to Nicole's voice is ASMR
Thank you for allowing us all to see 3 pieces of your collection, they are exquisite. Do you have any photos of the 3rd jacket that shows all its beading designs?
Will you be reproducing these jackets? I would love to see the drafting and pattern making for that.
Yes! Yes! Yes! Just seeing the first jacket, my first thought was, “Here’s my size. When should I pick it up?”
sooooo cool!!
Really intriguing to have the comparison between the 3 levels of ready-to-wear, all in one video! 🙏 Must admit, I think that incredible beading on the couture one is actually more striking in its discolored state - if originally fully black, it would've added plenty of sparkle but been a lot harder to see the amazing details...? 🤔
Would LOVE to add hand-beading of that style to my own sewing projects, but I'm so leery of how it might fail to hold up to repeated washings... 😱 (Not an issue with these coats of course as they would've only been sponged & maybe spot-treated with alcohol?)
A thought on coat 1.
Given the weird choice of cotton flannel.
Is it possible that originally it had a wool layer for warmth? It probably had to tell because of the condition it's in?
And then this was taken out either by an in-store tailor or by the customer's and replaced with cotton? It may also explain why the lining and interlining are treated as one?
This is very common practice if the owner was Jewish because of shatnez since there's linen in the collar.
Firstly thank you for sharing your beautiful new purchases with us all. So fascinating to look at them all and get an insight into their construction. How will you store them to help lessen any further deterioration? Just curious as a person who one day would love to have real Victorian pieces of clothing ❤
This is really cool,and interesting
Have you ever visited the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, Ont ? Excellent collection.
Beautiful
I recently picked up a victorian bodice and there were straight pins in it. I did not realize that was common!
I'm curious about their presence in outerwear garments of the late 1800s-early 1900s! In earlier stuff they seem to have been used a lot to attach pieces together (& allow for size shifting etc) but in these pieces, they didn't seem to be functions in terms of closure or fit alteration. Do you think they were left there from the garment construction? (That seems so odd with pieces that had this much work put into them!)