@@EXPLORISTlife In Natural Horsemenship I would teach them to "" Take The Time It Take's -- To Take Less Time "" That means every aspect of the task, fully understanding it from top to bottom... Love your teaching Nate, thank you...
Hi Nate - haven’t seen you post lately so wonder if You’ll get this. Kind of basic question. If I have an RV that comes with a 100 W panel and all the other components for the trickle charge - can I swap that panel out for another more efficient 100 W panel or would it require changes to programming and equipment? Thx Rob
Another advantage of the Lynx Distributor is the way you can stack the positive and negative wires. It really saves a lot of space. Thanks for sharing all your electrical know how!
Hope you're doing well Nate! Missing your videos. I imagine life's gotten busy. Just want you to know you've got grateful viewers will be happy whenever the next video is ready. Cheers!
Just installed the Lynx after reading about it on your website a few months ago and I’m so thankful I did. It’s super clean, and yes, cheaper than the other route. Thanks!
Been trying to learn this stuff for a year, that one web page where you change voltage or amps but watts stays the same made eveything click at that moment. Brilliant.
Another great video Nate. I had some guys commenting on a forum I belong to that the Lynx Distributor was expensive bling. I'm going to share this video with them.
I agree with you. You are ahead using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor. I also like the idea that with a small modification I can also have blown fuse indicators.
OK so maybe not the most in demand question, but, I would like to see a series on just updating a 12yr old ish 5th/pull trailer to add just slightly larger batteries, solar, small inverter/charger. Nothing to run the A/C off the batteries but something to give a solid reliable 12v system and maybe one or two outlets to use small appliances on occasion.
when you made the comparison between both Bus Bars and extra hardware it makes sense to buy the Victron for sure. I bought the amazon Bus Bars i think they were 23.and change. It is good for now but i may end buying the Lynx in the future. BTW thanks for this series.
I have a request; I want to know if you can do a DIY small solar system for the Home. I know you are strictly Mobile builds, but I'm sure there are millions of people who want to get into Solar but have no clue on a good reliable source of info they can research for beginners. I think you would be surprised on the many ppl who just want to power an AC or a few things in the home to save money.
Thank you for all of this info. I was really beating myself up over the pricing on the Lynx sysem. I feel much better now, but there is still a limited amount of support for a 48v system.
Good video - thanks! I also think the BlueSea Safety Hub 150 is worth a good look if you don't need the very high amperage busbars. It has the two busbars, 4 high amp fuse holders and 6 low amp fuse holders, all for a fairbit less than the Lynx and with BlueSea quality - but limited to about 250ish amps.
Thanks Nate! Looking forward to your shunt vs smart shunt vs bmv 712 video. I've been trying to decide between the bmv 712 and the smart shunt (both from Victron) . I already purchased the bmv 712, but I am still in time to return it if need be.
Hi Nate - greatest program for lay people trying to learn. 2 questions regarding your DIY Solar campervan solar setup diagram (really super helpful and cheap - I'll have to laminate it !) : 1. Can the Victron Orion DC2DC charger be connected directly to the battery or does it have to go to the alternator first ? 2.You only included the AC distribution panel. Any reason ? Where does the DC panel connection come from the Lynx ? 3. Why is there a ground connection between the MPPT charge controller and the Multiplus contact ? 4. If the Multiplus compact is hooked up to shore power, where does the battery charging electricity come from ? From the AC distribution panel through the 6 AWG connections on the right side of the Lynx ? Thanks for all you do !
Just subscribed been watching for the past 12 months learning all about solar set ups in caravans oops RVS I'm an Ausie different terms used great vids best I've come across very informative swapping my gear over to Victron bit by bit far superior product
You forgot to factor in time to install. I do not know about you but if something can go in faster that gives me more time to relax and have a beer or two or three.
I LOVE your video's and LOVE your advice. I DO think the Victron Lynx is worth it, but I was wondering.... for smaller systems have you ever considered the Blue Sea Systems 7748 SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block? What is great about it is that along with the four high amp connections like the Lynx, it also has four smaller fused connections, too! It is my opinion that Lynx is GREAT for medium to large systems and the Blue Sea Systems 7748 SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block is great for real small systems, which happens to be where I am using mine :)
Would the Lynx distributor be overkill in our situation? The total load of our system is around 65 to 90 amps both DC and AC and everything running and charging at once. We have a very small load setup, a fan, diesel heater, laptops, a dc fridge and some lights. 200ah lifepo battery system, 350w of solar, 30a charge controller, and 700w inverter. Also, based on our load totals, would you agree 1/0 cables to connect the batteries and a 150a ANL fuse on the positive from battery to bus bar would suffice?
Thanks for your videos. Super helpful. I've got an aluminum frame truck camper. The interior cabinets are made of aluminum extrusion bolted to the frame. My electrical system is grounded to the camper frame. Am I going to get myself zapped? What's the best practice for grounding? (I'm running an 1800w inverter, Victron MPPT and Victron Orion. Thanks.
Hi Nate, new subscriber! Awesome videos and channel. Quick question, how would you wire this Lynx in a common ground setup like used in a boat? All negatives basically go to a common ground buss and out to a sacrificial anode/zinc plate. Thanks
Hello, i have a question about a Lynx distributor and big cables. I need to connect a phoenix 24/5000 inverter. Between Inverter and Distributer is 1,2m The manual said the recommended cable is 2x 95mm² with an 400A Fuse. If it´s possible to connect two cables an one of the four terminal with a 400A fuse or i have to split it to two terminals with two 200A fuses? Another option is to connect a Fuse holder at the end of the distributor busbar and connected seperately. Best regards Robert
I like the design of the Lynx, but I don't understand that it is rated for 1000 Amp, as the busbars are only 30 x 8 mm. Looking at general calculations for Cupper busbars this would on rate for around 300 Amp.
If I hadn't happened into a large quantity of supplies, and a commercial bus bar setup, from a telecom electrician, who was retiring, Lynx would be the way I would go.
Nice product but I dont see myself using it for a couple of reasons. First, you can connect two or three wires on a single terminal in a bus bar, so a four terminal bus bar gives you 8+ connections, while with the Lynx you are stuck with one on each post. Next, I'm switching to breakers almost exclusively in order to avoid situations where a fuse blows while being in the middle of nowhere without spare extra fuses on hand. So while the Lynx is packaged nicely, not the best solution for my needs.
Glad you found what works for you! If you're using breakers, consider running a copper bar across all of the 'input' terminals to cut down on connections instead of using a bunch of short jumper wires to a busbar.
Looks like a great solution as long as the max interrupt current rating of the Mega fuses is compatible with the device(s) that are being supplied current. But that's another video I'd guess.
Love the videos, but the achilles heel of the lynx distributor is the mega fuses (low AIC). If victron made a 1000amp version with class t fuses, they would have the market covered. The build quality of the distributor is not as good as blue sea or mastervolt.
You can't say that and then not talk about how class t fuses are virtually unattainable to the consumer market. Something we can't get isn't helpful. The Lynx Distributor is a fantastic unit and has solved basically all of the problems the viewers of this channel were having. Keep your negativity out of here, or better yet, start you own channel instead of talking shit on mine about the way I like to teach things.
@@EXPLORISTlife Can you expand a bit on what you mean by virtually unattainable? I'm on a boat, not a RV but my understanding is that a class T fuse is mandatory coming out of a lithium bank. I have one and I haven't experienced any problems sourcing blue sea hardware for it. I also plan a class T fuse for my planned inverter. It's precisely why I dismissed the lynx. I have the advantage of a simple system so I save by not needing 4 main trunks out of by positive buss so for me financially it made sense.
Hi Nate. Great video, as usual. Thank you for taking the time to enlighten us newbies. I have a question regarding the Lynx distributor. How do you combine it with a Battery Protect? Where would you place the BP? Would you recommend on BP for the charge side of the aux battery and one for the load side? If so, where would you place them? Thank you!
A battery protect would simply get wired between the Lynx Distributor and the load/charger. I don't spec battery protects into any of the EXPLORIST.life electrical designs that include batteries with built in BMS's: www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
I agree, after I studied all the victron components and started sorting this out.. the buss bar math didn’t add up vs the lynx distributor/power in. I have greatly appreciated this series! Btw i may have filled out a application on your website wayyy to early this morning.. I’ll wait and see if I get a response. Thanks again for the series!
Nice video I will check them out. Related if you haven't seen it check out the IR video of solder verses crimp connections. At Trojan Batteries. It was eye opening for me. Thanks for the tip! :)
Discuss the Victron Smart (& plain) battery protects also, please. I was going to get one, but am getting an inverter with programmable LVD & LVR so I can do without, and set it so the disconnect is higher than the BMS cutoff voltage
Thank you for all the guidance with your drawings to help simplify everything. I have used one of your drawing from 2 years ago when I first installed my system. On the distribution buss bar, does it matter which side that you attach things to. In an effort to save or maximize space used. Can you attach a jumper bar to the ground side of the opposite end. This allows for hopefully a better direction for my shunt at this time. Thank you again
On the Lynx Distributor, if you need a 5th slot, you think it’d be fine to wire up a, for example, Blue Seas 187 100A breaker to the end where you’d attach a 2nd Lynx Distributor?
I am curios of your opinion on using the Blue Sea Systems 5196 - 3 position MRBF Surface Terminal Mount Fuse Blocks as a positive bus bar in combination with a Blue Seas system bus bar for negative in smaller installations where space is limited (not for cost saving)
Lynx Distributer seems like the way to go but Im having a hard time finding fuses for $5 especially 40a. Do you use Victron fuses or just any brand? Whats the recommended there?
Prices of both MEGA fuses and ANL fuses have both gone up in the last few years since making this video; but theve risen proportionally. MEGA fuses are about $9 now in our store: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/fuses-breakers/mega-fuses-fuse-holders/ ANL Fuses are $29 40A fuses of high-quality don't really exist, but a 60A fuse will work in most cases given 6ga wire is being used. Note that all of our wiring kits in our shop come with their appropriate size of MEGA fuse: shop.explorist.life
I like the safety hub for larger branch circuits downstream of the Lynx Distributor, but I don't think it's an adequate replacement for the Lynx as the max fuse size that can fit in the safety hub is 200A. Plus, it doesn't have enough big lugs on the negative busbar. It's good for winches, lightbars, air pumps or high amp accessories like that, though.
Can this be used with positive coming out one end of the distributor and negative coming out of the opposite end? Looks like they provided studs on both ends of each.
Hi Nate, thank you for your videos. You mention doing a video a few times about comparing the Lynx shunt, Smart shunt, and BMV shunt. I can't see it anywhere - is that video still going to happen do you think?
Hey Nate, I have a 2021 Reflection 311bhs 5th wheel. I’m adding a 2000w Renogy inverter. I have installed the Victron BMV 712 and Mppt 100/50 charge controller for my 200w Solar. What size neg buss bar can I get away with . All other neg are all factory stuff. Also I have 2 6v batteries installed. Can you provide me with the proper wiring diagram. Want to make sure I have all set up right . Thank you, Heber
I have two questions. 1. I bought from your website diagram (300-600AH, 600-1200W Solar, 3000W Inverter) and I want to use this diagram for my camper. To avoid any manufacture (Mercedes) warranty problems I don't want connect my house battery bank with alternator. Battery bank going to be charged just by solar panels or shore power. My question is, do I have to connect ground wire to chassis of my van? Can I connect ground wire just to negative battery terminal? If I will connect ground wire with chassis, can I have any car warranty problems in future? 2. I planning install extra light bar on the roof in my van. How do you provide wires from roof of van to inside van? Solar cable entry looking with to big wire holes. Thank you, Darek.
Nate, some of my 12 volt apps don't like charging voltage over 13.6 volts, my gel battery takes up to 14.2. Effectively this means I can't run my fans or lights while in bulk charging mode right? How do I regulate the voltage down to 12V permanently on my 12v branch no matter the battery input? I've looked at Buck converters but they don't have the 100 AMP rating that my 12Volt branch does? Thoughts?
I just purchased three diagrams from your website and I received only one diagram 12 VOLT BRANCH CIRCUIT GUIDEBOOK. Did not receive these diagram. 1). 3000w inverter 400 - 600AH/400 to 1200w solar - camper solar kit. OR. 2) 120v branch circuits ( outlets) wiring diagram- High Resolution There is a problem receiving the other two ,please help.
Sorry about the glitch. Email me at the email on our contact page with your order number and I'll get you all straightened out: www.explorist.life/contact-us/
Hi Nate, I have aRevel van with the Agm system I have two questions 1. What blueprints system that you have that would help me to upgrade to a 400ah lithium system? 2. Do you have a blueprint system that has a separate alternator charging (not a B2B) Thanks Joe
I'm more in the 'teaching you how to do it yourself' space; so no... Not really. Here is info on my extremely limited install services: www.explorist.life/camper-electrical-install-services/
great savings and quality tip re bus bars, thanks. any chance you could cover the victron approach to charging my van's house batteries direct from the 220amp van alternator using an 'external regulator?' then charging the van battery from my house batteries? i understand this is the most efficient and quick way to charge my van's house batteries and take advantage of the upgraded alternator. does victron make an external regulator etc?
I HAVE A QUESTION NATE: my RV trailer is a 2021 Geo Pro and it came with a 1000 watt pure sine inverter with a built in transfer switch. I want to upgrade it to a 2000 watt inverter so I can use my microwave, but I’m running into an issue I can’t seem to find a 2000 watt inverter with a built in transfer switch that DOSE NOT ALSO HAVE A BUILT IN CONVERTER. I already have a converter built into my electrical panel. So my question is IF I GET A NEW INVERTER THAT HAS ALL THREE BUILT IN WILL I HAVE TO DISCONNECT MY CURENT CONVERTER IN MY ELECTRICAL PANNEL AND RUN NEW WIRES ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE NEW INVERTER OR CAN I JUST DROP IT IN AND USE ALL THE SAME CONNECTIONS. OR DO YOU KNOW OF A 2 or 3000 WATT INVERTER THAT HAS A BUILT IN TRANSFER SWITCH THAT HAS NO CONVERTER THAT I CAN JUST DROP IN. If you can help me with this it would be awesome. Thanks for all the help your videos have already given me. 👍
I still have the old style, homemade bus bar from copper. How dangerous is it if I check the torque every so often? Thanks, Nate for the continued great info!
As an old timer I am sticking with the home made copper ones myself. Don't need to check your torque. As long as you had done it right the first time! Per NEC 2020 new rules all fasteners must be torque to manufactures specifications [ 705.11(E) Connections (Supply-Side) The connections shall be made using listed conductors as described in 110.14 Electrical Connections. 110.14 pretty much says that we need to torque and install the listed conductors according to instructions, which was how they were tested during the listing process, with also paying attention to 110.14(C) Temperature Limitations, which we will take into account in our wire-sizing... ]
Wondering if you can do a video on how to choose a charge controller I'm looking at the hybrid charge controllers all in one but I was looking at buying a very expensive one that doesn't require to use batteries is it any down play to this besides just having extra power stored or doesn't the unit work well without some kind of storage unit. I've always wanted a real solar unit not a battery unit which I personally call them because basically even though the solar does charge the batteries the batteries have to be depleted to really get any benefits from your solar, otherwise I would like to run my appliance strictly off of solar is there any way to do this what do you think?
Never scrimp!!! Especially when we're spending 50,000+ now on vans iv always used the audison connection equipment net cheap but really nice German quality
Question…. Would I be wrong for going with a 50 amp Victron charge controller instead of the 30, if I know I’m going to have less than 1000 W of solar on the roof of my camper? I already have two SOK (206 ah) batteries and a 4000 watt inverter for the system and plan to expand two 4 batteries eventually. I just want to buy this once but wanted to make sure it wasn’t a mistake.
For 1,000 W; you'd actually want a 70A charge controller if you are wiring a 12V battery bank. More info: How a charge controller works: czcams.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/video.html How to size a charge controller: czcams.com/video/MxziHKvTRh8/video.html Solar Array Wiring Kits (if nothing else to use for examples): shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
In your wiring diagrams i see a bus bar between the disconnect switch and the Lynx Distributor. I did not see the bus bar in your parts list. Where did you get that? Also is there a reason you can't use a Mega fuse instead of an ANL fuse for the main battery fuse? Thanks again for the information.
That's listed as "Lynx Adapter" in the parts list. MEGA fuses usually can't be used as the main system fuse as it's AIC (Ampacity Interrupt Capacity) is too low. T-Fuses, MRBF Fuses, and ANL Fuses are usually the only choices for the main system fuse.
Hey Nate So could I just use this instead of the LINKX Power In ? What would be the advantage ? or should I just go with the Power in by Victron for my batteries and Victron controller Subbed....Thanks
Sure! The Lynx Distributor and Victron Shunts (except the lynx shunt; which only powers the lights) don't communicate w/ each other; so it doesn't matter.
Hi Nate, I am following your diagram I purchased from you for 800w solar and 3000w inverter charger. Per your diagram I purchased 2ga wire to go from the Victron MPPT to the Lynx distributor. For the life of me I can not find a crimper for 2ga ferrules. Can you point me to one that will work for 2ga please ? Thank you
I want to use 2 Rich charge controllers, both 20amp, feeding 4 Battleborn 100aH LiFePo4's so I can have panels facing south and other panels facing west. Can I use the Lynx Distributor in such a set up? Thank you.
Prices of fuses fluctuate with the price of the commodity market (which have skyrocketed over the last year since I made this video), but we've got them from $8 to $14 depending on size in our store: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/fuses-breakers/mega-fuses-fuse-holders/mega-fuses/ High quality ANL fuses are up to $30/ea as of writing this reply.
Nate, question...what is the size of the mega fuse? 300AMP or 500AMP? I am adding a 3000W inverter and will put a 500ANL Fuse between the inverter and the battery. Thanks for your feedback.
The 12V 3000W Victron Multiplus calls for a 400A fuse (when using 4/0 wire) in the user manual (pg 8 I believe). Also check this: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit/
Whatever you recommend I buy. Whatever you do, I do. And I do thank you for taking the time and the kindness to post those videos for FREE. Grateful.
my time is my own and the statement "do it right, do it once" is a keeper
Re-work is the worst.
@@EXPLORISTlife In Natural Horsemenship I would teach them to "" Take The Time It Take's -- To Take Less Time "" That means every aspect of the task, fully understanding it from top to bottom... Love your teaching Nate, thank you...
Hi Nate - haven’t seen you post lately so wonder if You’ll get this. Kind of basic question. If I have an RV that comes with a 100 W panel and all the other components for the trickle charge - can I swap that panel out for another more efficient 100 W panel or would it require changes to programming and equipment? Thx Rob
Just subscribed to you recently. I'm trying to learn this stuff and you are probably the best on CZcams. Thank you for the great content.
jehugarcia, will prowse, hbpowerwalls, lithiumsolar are others
Another advantage of the Lynx Distributor is the way you can stack the positive and negative wires. It really saves a lot of space. Thanks for sharing all your electrical know how!
Hope you're doing well Nate! Missing your videos. I imagine life's gotten busy. Just want you to know you've got grateful viewers will be happy whenever the next video is ready. Cheers!
Just installed the Lynx after reading about it on your website a few months ago and I’m so thankful I did. It’s super clean, and yes, cheaper than the other route. Thanks!
No problem. Happy to help!
I bought a power in and was surprised how freaking heavy it is, that thing has some massive bus bars!
Power In is the way to go IMO. You can still add fuses easily.
Been trying to learn this stuff for a year, that one web page where you change voltage or amps but watts stays the same made eveything click at that moment. Brilliant.
Another great video Nate. I had some guys commenting on a forum I belong to that the Lynx Distributor was expensive bling. I'm going to share this video with them.
Couldn't figure out your tutorial on the lynx dist versus power in...this cleared that question up. Great.
Was great to meet you at the Colorado Springs training session. Thanks for answering all of our questions!
I agree with you. You are ahead using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor. I also like the idea that with a small modification I can also have blown fuse indicators.
Sold on the Victron after this video and your responses in the private group. Thanks!
OK so maybe not the most in demand question, but, I would like to see a series on just updating a 12yr old ish 5th/pull trailer to add just slightly larger batteries, solar, small inverter/charger. Nothing to run the A/C off the batteries but something to give a solid reliable 12v system and maybe one or two outlets to use small appliances on occasion.
I just installed the Power-in and it was helpful. Large, though. That was the biggest component in my install except the inverter.
Thank you for explaining the differences between 'Lynx Distributor vs Busbars '...
when you made the comparison between both Bus Bars and extra hardware it makes sense to buy the Victron for sure. I bought the amazon Bus Bars i think they were 23.and change. It is good for now but i may end buying the Lynx in the future. BTW thanks for this series.
I have a request; I want to know if you can do a DIY small solar system for the Home. I know you are strictly Mobile builds, but I'm sure there are millions of people who want to get into Solar but have no clue on a good reliable source of info they can research for beginners. I think you would be surprised on the many ppl who just want to power an AC or a few things in the home to save money.
My Lynx came in the mail today Thanx Nate
Rad!
Thank you for all of this info. I was really beating myself up over the pricing on the Lynx sysem. I feel much better now, but there is still a limited amount of support for a 48v system.
My feelings exactly! Expensive but a better deal than going the conventional way and cleaner and fewer places to screw up.
For sure. Glad it helped!
Good video - thanks!
I also think the BlueSea Safety Hub 150 is worth a good look if you don't need the very high amperage busbars.
It has the two busbars, 4 high amp fuse holders and 6 low amp fuse holders, all for a fairbit less than the Lynx and with BlueSea quality - but limited to about 250ish amps.
Thanks Nate! Looking forward to your shunt vs smart shunt vs bmv 712 video. I've been trying to decide between the bmv 712 and the smart shunt (both from Victron) . I already purchased the bmv 712, but I am still in time to return it if need be.
Thanks for sharing your informative information on this topic.
Hi Nate - greatest program for lay people trying to learn. 2 questions regarding your DIY Solar campervan solar setup diagram (really super helpful and cheap - I'll have to laminate it !) :
1. Can the Victron Orion DC2DC charger be connected directly to the battery or does it have to go to the alternator first ?
2.You only included the AC distribution panel. Any reason ? Where does the DC panel connection come from the Lynx ?
3. Why is there a ground connection between the MPPT charge controller and the Multiplus contact ?
4. If the Multiplus compact is hooked up to shore power, where does the battery charging electricity come from ? From the AC distribution panel through the 6 AWG connections on the right side of the Lynx ?
Thanks for all you do !
I think this video should answer all of those questions: czcams.com/video/01F4QDVJUq0/video.html&lc=UgxzfYe02NpeOHbj6uJ4AaABAg
Great video - I have the Lynx and can recommend it 100%
Good choice!
Just subscribed been watching for the past 12 months learning all about solar set ups in caravans oops RVS I'm an Ausie different terms used great vids best I've come across very informative swapping my gear over to Victron bit by bit far superior product
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video!
Thanks!
You forgot to factor in time to install. I do not know about you but if something can go in faster that gives me more time to relax and have a beer or two or three.
Very much so. Great point!
I will install. With your help@@EXPLORISTlife
I LOVE your video's and LOVE your advice. I DO think the Victron Lynx is worth it, but I was wondering.... for smaller systems have you ever considered the Blue Sea Systems 7748 SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block? What is great about it is that along with the four high amp connections like the Lynx, it also has four smaller fused connections, too! It is my opinion that Lynx is GREAT for medium to large systems and the Blue Sea Systems 7748 SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block is great for real small systems, which happens to be where I am using mine :)
Would the Lynx distributor be overkill in our situation? The total load of our system is around 65 to 90 amps both DC and AC and everything running and charging at once. We have a very small load setup, a fan, diesel heater, laptops, a dc fridge and some lights. 200ah lifepo battery system, 350w of solar, 30a charge controller, and 700w inverter. Also, based on our load totals, would you agree 1/0 cables to connect the batteries and a 150a ANL fuse on the positive from battery to bus bar would suffice?
Would like to see a video on the 240 quattro, setup in a home battery backup system.
Thanks for your videos. Super helpful.
I've got an aluminum frame truck camper. The interior cabinets are made of aluminum extrusion bolted to the frame. My electrical system is grounded to the camper frame. Am I going to get myself zapped?
What's the best practice for grounding? (I'm running an 1800w inverter, Victron MPPT and Victron Orion. Thanks.
Hi Nate, new subscriber! Awesome videos and channel.
Quick question, how would you wire this Lynx in a common ground setup like used in a boat?
All negatives basically go to a common ground buss and out to a sacrificial anode/zinc plate.
Thanks
Just purchased one of your wiring diagrams to use on my boat. Problems downloading the diagram.
Sorry about the glitch. Send me an email with your order number and I'll get it straightened out: www.explorist.life/CONTACT-US/
@@EXPLORISTlife THANKS NATE!!! Awesome videos!!!
great information, great video, Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hello, i have a question about a Lynx distributor and big cables.
I need to connect a phoenix 24/5000 inverter.
Between Inverter and Distributer is 1,2m
The manual said the recommended cable is 2x 95mm² with an 400A Fuse.
If it´s possible to connect two cables an one of the four terminal with a 400A fuse or i have to split it to two terminals with two 200A fuses?
Another option is to connect a Fuse holder at the end of the distributor busbar and connected seperately.
Best regards Robert
I like the design of the Lynx, but I don't understand that it is rated for 1000 Amp, as the busbars are only 30 x 8 mm.
Looking at general calculations for Cupper busbars this would on rate for around 300 Amp.
If I hadn't happened into a large quantity of supplies, and a commercial bus bar setup, from a telecom electrician, who was retiring, Lynx would be the way I would go.
Nice product but I dont see myself using it for a couple of reasons. First, you can connect two or three wires on a single terminal in a bus bar, so a four terminal bus bar gives you 8+ connections, while with the Lynx you are stuck with one on each post. Next, I'm switching to breakers almost exclusively in order to avoid situations where a fuse blows while being in the middle of nowhere without spare extra fuses on hand. So while the Lynx is packaged nicely, not the best solution for my needs.
Glad you found what works for you! If you're using breakers, consider running a copper bar across all of the 'input' terminals to cut down on connections instead of using a bunch of short jumper wires to a busbar.
Looks like a great solution as long as the max interrupt current rating of the Mega fuses is compatible with the device(s) that are being supplied current. But that's another video I'd guess.
Great point! The AIC is handled with the main fuse before power is delivered to the Lynx Distributor: www.exploirst.life/solarwiringdiagrams
Glad I found your channel. Just binge watched a ton of videos. Great job! Have you done a video about adding a second alternator to a sprinter yet?
Love the videos, but the achilles heel of the lynx distributor is the mega fuses (low AIC). If victron made a 1000amp version with class t fuses, they would have the market covered. The build quality of the distributor is not as good as blue sea or mastervolt.
You can't say that and then not talk about how class t fuses are virtually unattainable to the consumer market. Something we can't get isn't helpful. The Lynx Distributor is a fantastic unit and has solved basically all of the problems the viewers of this channel were having. Keep your negativity out of here, or better yet, start you own channel instead of talking shit on mine about the way I like to teach things.
@@EXPLORISTlife Can you expand a bit on what you mean by virtually unattainable? I'm on a boat, not a RV but my understanding is that a class T fuse is mandatory coming out of a lithium bank. I have one and I haven't experienced any problems sourcing blue sea hardware for it. I also plan a class T fuse for my planned inverter. It's precisely why I dismissed the lynx. I have the advantage of a simple system so I save by not needing 4 main trunks out of by positive buss so for me financially it made sense.
When will you publish the next episode of Lynx Shunt? Greetings!
Hi Nate. Great video, as usual. Thank you for taking the time to enlighten us newbies. I have a question regarding the Lynx distributor. How do you combine it with a Battery Protect? Where would you place the BP? Would you recommend on BP for the charge side of the aux battery and one for the load side? If so, where would you place them? Thank you!
A battery protect would simply get wired between the Lynx Distributor and the load/charger. I don't spec battery protects into any of the EXPLORIST.life electrical designs that include batteries with built in BMS's: www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
Hi still waiting for your next video, hope all well
Is there something like the Lynx but in small?
I agree, after I studied all the victron components and started sorting this out.. the buss bar math didn’t add up vs the lynx distributor/power in. I have greatly appreciated this series! Btw i may have filled out a application on your website wayyy to early this morning.. I’ll wait and see if I get a response. Thanks again for the series!
Nice video I will check them out. Related if you haven't seen it check out the IR video of solder verses crimp connections. At Trojan Batteries. It was eye opening for me. Thanks for the tip! :)
Discuss the Victron Smart (& plain) battery protects also, please. I was going to get one, but am getting an inverter with programmable LVD & LVR so I can do without, and set it so the disconnect is higher than the BMS cutoff voltage
At the end of the video it was mentioned about the next video being on the different shunts...I cant find that video. Anyone help me out?
Thank you for all the guidance with your drawings to help simplify everything. I have used one of your drawing from 2 years ago when I first installed my system.
On the distribution buss bar, does it matter which side that you attach things to. In an effort to save or maximize space used. Can you attach a jumper bar to the ground side of the opposite end. This allows for hopefully a better direction for my shunt at this time.
Thank you again
Excellent!
How do you make your diagrams/schematics?
I use Microsoft Visio for all of my diagrams/graphics.
On the Lynx Distributor, if you need a 5th slot, you think it’d be fine to wire up a, for example, Blue Seas 187 100A breaker to the end where you’d attach a 2nd Lynx Distributor?
Interested in this... can't 'sea' why not 😏
I am curios of your opinion on using the Blue Sea Systems 5196 - 3 position MRBF Surface Terminal Mount Fuse Blocks as a positive bus bar in combination with a Blue Seas system bus bar for negative in smaller installations where space is limited (not for cost saving)
That's a good alternative if your loads are smaller as the largest MRBF fuse is only 300A, so it's not going to work with a 3000W Inverter.
Lynx Distributer seems like the way to go but Im having a hard time finding fuses for $5 especially 40a. Do you use Victron fuses or just any brand? Whats the recommended there?
Prices of both MEGA fuses and ANL fuses have both gone up in the last few years since making this video; but theve risen proportionally. MEGA fuses are about $9 now in our store: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/fuses-breakers/mega-fuses-fuse-holders/
ANL Fuses are $29
40A fuses of high-quality don't really exist, but a 60A fuse will work in most cases given 6ga wire is being used. Note that all of our wiring kits in our shop come with their appropriate size of MEGA fuse: shop.explorist.life
The saying.
Do it right, do it once.
Sounds like something we say in Australia.
Buy cheap, buy twice!
I’d love for you review the Blue Sea Safety Hub 150 as an alternative, please.
I like the safety hub for larger branch circuits downstream of the Lynx Distributor, but I don't think it's an adequate replacement for the Lynx as the max fuse size that can fit in the safety hub is 200A. Plus, it doesn't have enough big lugs on the negative busbar. It's good for winches, lightbars, air pumps or high amp accessories like that, though.
How about some links to the products you are describing?
Here's the Lynx Distributor: shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/victron-lynx-distributor/
I'll let you look up the rest of them.
I got the distributor. I have mmpt's -> bus bar -> 15' wire -> distrributor -> battery Do I need a fuse on the mmpt side of the wire as well?
There does not need to be a fuse on the MPPT side of the wire that goes from the Lynx Distributor to the MPPT.
Can this be used with positive coming out one end of the distributor and negative coming out of the opposite end? Looks like they provided studs on both ends of each.
Can you use the Lynx Distributor as a Parallel Busbar to tie all your battery together?
You 'could' do that, yes; but that's generally not how I design systems: www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
Great review! This is always how I compare when purchasing vs building.
Thanks! Yeah, too many people leave out the little stuff when cost comparing and that little stuff adds up.
Does the Lynx come in larger sizes? I need 6 lugs to be able to hook up wires to the six 12V lithium batteries in parallel. Thanks!
You can bolt Lynx Distributors together end to end for additional spaces.
Hi Nate, thank you for your videos. You mention doing a video a few times about comparing the Lynx shunt, Smart shunt, and BMV shunt. I can't see it anywhere - is that video still going to happen do you think?
It's still on the to-do list; but it's pretty low on the list at the moment.
Hey Nate,
I have a 2021 Reflection 311bhs 5th wheel. I’m adding a 2000w Renogy inverter. I have installed the Victron BMV 712 and Mppt 100/50 charge controller for my 200w Solar. What size neg buss bar can I get away with . All other neg are all factory stuff. Also I have 2 6v batteries installed. Can you provide me with the proper wiring diagram. Want to make sure I have all set up right .
Thank you,
Heber
Hi quick question would it be wise to install my 12v charger to the bus bars or should it go directly to the battery
Do the wires coming from the RV (the original ones running to the battery) install through the Lynx Distributor as well?
This may be a odd question but - do you need a bus bar if you have a class A RV with a AC and DC wire in the RV allready?
I have two questions.
1. I bought from your website diagram (300-600AH, 600-1200W Solar, 3000W Inverter) and I want to use this diagram for my camper. To avoid any manufacture (Mercedes) warranty problems I don't want connect my house battery bank with alternator. Battery bank going to be charged just by solar panels or shore power. My question is, do I have to connect ground wire to chassis of my van? Can I connect ground wire just to negative battery terminal? If I will connect ground wire with chassis, can I have any car warranty problems in future?
2. I planning install extra light bar on the roof in my van. How do you provide wires from roof of van to inside van? Solar cable entry looking with to big wire holes.
Thank you, Darek.
At 5.00 you mention a video comparing the various types of Victron shunts, I cannot find that video, can you help me with a link please?
We ended up not making that video just yet.
Nate, some of my 12 volt apps don't like charging voltage over 13.6 volts, my gel battery takes up to 14.2. Effectively this means I can't run my fans or lights while in bulk charging mode right? How do I regulate the voltage down to 12V permanently on my 12v branch no matter the battery input? I've looked at Buck converters but they don't have the 100 AMP rating that my 12Volt branch does? Thoughts?
Agreed 👍
I just purchased three diagrams from your website and I received only one diagram
12 VOLT BRANCH CIRCUIT GUIDEBOOK.
Did not receive these diagram.
1). 3000w inverter 400 - 600AH/400 to 1200w solar - camper solar kit. OR.
2) 120v branch circuits ( outlets) wiring diagram- High Resolution
There is a problem receiving the other two ,please help.
Sorry about the glitch. Email me at the email on our contact page with your order number and I'll get you all straightened out: www.explorist.life/contact-us/
Hi Nate, I have aRevel van with the Agm system I have two questions 1. What blueprints system that you have that would help me to upgrade to a 400ah lithium system? 2. Do you have a blueprint system that has a separate alternator charging (not a B2B)
Thanks Joe
Do you ever do any solar in camper installs in Florida ?
I'm more in the 'teaching you how to do it yourself' space; so no... Not really. Here is info on my extremely limited install services: www.explorist.life/camper-electrical-install-services/
great savings and quality tip re bus bars, thanks. any chance you could cover the victron approach to charging my van's house batteries direct from the 220amp van alternator using an 'external regulator?' then charging the van battery from my house batteries? i understand this is the most efficient and quick way to charge my van's house batteries and take advantage of the upgraded alternator. does victron make an external regulator etc?
Victron does make something for that, expensive. Also a Renology device. Using alternator is not simple.
Why can’t I get to your private group? I get a not secure warning. Would like to join. Is the link wrong?
Try this: community.explorist.life
How would you connect a 12v fuseblock to this to add the rv to it
Check out either of the 'OEM RV' wiring diagrams for an example of that: explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
I HAVE A QUESTION NATE: my RV trailer is a 2021 Geo Pro and it came with a 1000 watt pure sine inverter with a built in transfer switch. I want to upgrade it to a 2000 watt inverter so I can use my microwave, but I’m running into an issue I can’t seem to find a 2000 watt inverter with a built in transfer switch that DOSE NOT ALSO HAVE A BUILT IN CONVERTER. I already have a converter built into my electrical panel. So my question is IF I GET A NEW INVERTER THAT HAS ALL THREE BUILT IN WILL I HAVE TO DISCONNECT MY CURENT CONVERTER IN MY ELECTRICAL PANNEL
AND RUN NEW WIRES ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE NEW INVERTER OR CAN I JUST DROP IT IN AND USE ALL THE SAME CONNECTIONS. OR DO YOU KNOW OF A 2 or 3000 WATT INVERTER THAT HAS A BUILT IN TRANSFER SWITCH THAT HAS NO CONVERTER THAT I CAN JUST DROP IN. If you can help me with this it would be awesome. Thanks for all the help your videos have already given me. 👍
Will the LED status lights only work if the rest of the system is made up of Victron products? Or will they still work with my Outback Power system?
It'll work with this hack: czcams.com/video/8h-E1lkYCKg/video.html
I still have the old style, homemade bus bar from copper. How dangerous is it if I check the torque every so often? Thanks, Nate for the continued great info!
As an old timer I am sticking with the home made copper ones myself. Don't need to check your torque. As long as you had done it right the first time! Per NEC 2020 new rules all fasteners must be torque to manufactures specifications [ 705.11(E) Connections (Supply-Side) The connections shall be made using listed conductors as described in 110.14 Electrical Connections. 110.14 pretty much says that we need to torque and install the listed conductors according to instructions, which was how they were tested during the listing process, with also paying attention to 110.14(C) Temperature Limitations, which we will take into account in our wire-sizing... ]
@@teddypreston5525 thanks.. I know the fuse holders are kinda cheap too. but I'll keep an eye on it.
Wondering if you can do a video on how to choose a charge controller I'm looking at the hybrid charge controllers all in one but I was looking at buying a very expensive one that doesn't require to use batteries is it any down play to this besides just having extra power stored or doesn't the unit work well without some kind of storage unit. I've always wanted a real solar unit not a battery unit which I personally call them because basically even though the solar does charge the batteries the batteries have to be depleted to really get any benefits from your solar, otherwise I would like to run my appliance strictly off of solar is there any way to do this what do you think?
Never scrimp!!! Especially when we're spending 50,000+ now on vans iv always used the audison connection equipment net cheap but really nice German quality
Question…. Would I be wrong for going with a 50 amp Victron charge controller instead of the 30, if I know I’m going to have less than 1000 W of solar on the roof of my camper? I already have two SOK (206 ah) batteries and a 4000 watt inverter for the system and plan to expand two 4 batteries eventually. I just want to buy this once but wanted to make sure it wasn’t a mistake.
For 1,000 W; you'd actually want a 70A charge controller if you are wiring a 12V battery bank. More info:
How a charge controller works: czcams.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/video.html
How to size a charge controller: czcams.com/video/MxziHKvTRh8/video.html
Solar Array Wiring Kits (if nothing else to use for examples): shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you
In your wiring diagrams i see a bus bar between the disconnect switch and the Lynx Distributor. I did not see the bus bar in your parts list. Where did you get that? Also is there a reason you can't use a Mega fuse instead of an ANL fuse for the main battery fuse? Thanks again for the information.
That's listed as "Lynx Adapter" in the parts list.
MEGA fuses usually can't be used as the main system fuse as it's AIC (Ampacity Interrupt Capacity) is too low. T-Fuses, MRBF Fuses, and ANL Fuses are usually the only choices for the main system fuse.
Hay bud
Would you recommend using this inside a power shed for an off grid system. running a 24v/3000 Watt Multiplus, 150/85 controller, and 2220 in panels.
Yep! Definitely.
Need to add about $15 for the positive post bolts. The secondary positive post bolts do not come with it. So, more shopping.
The $206 Lynx Distributor I referenced does indeed come with the fuse holder bolts.
You're talking about a different product ($130 Lynx Power In)
Hi. K q. I have 8 200ah 12v lithium batteries and 25 310w 48v solar panels... which way do I need connected and what mppt for making all work
you also use the lynx as a component ground...
Of course! That's how I have all of my systems at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams set up.
Hey Nate
So could I just use this instead of the LINKX Power In ?
What would be the advantage ? or should I just go with the Power in by Victron for my batteries and Victron controller
Subbed....Thanks
I use the Lynx Distributor in all of my systems at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
Where is the tutorial to modify the Lynx power in to accept fuses? Can you post the link here, thanks!!
Sure! -> czcams.com/video/LIVh7lZ5IT0/video.html
Is it possible to use an older Victron shunt with the Lynx distributor?
Sure! The Lynx Distributor and Victron Shunts (except the lynx shunt; which only powers the lights) don't communicate w/ each other; so it doesn't matter.
Perhaps check out the various combos of shunts and kits in our shop to see how we recommend setting this stuff up: shop.explorist.life
This video taught me that I was ripped off because I paid $330 for my Lynx Distributor on Amazon.
Hi Nate,
I am following your diagram I purchased from you for 800w solar and 3000w inverter charger. Per your diagram I purchased 2ga wire to go from the Victron MPPT to the Lynx distributor. For the life of me I can not find a crimper for 2ga ferrules. Can you point me to one that will work for 2ga please ?
Thank you
Sure! Check the parts list in this blog post: www.explorist.life/how-to-crimp-a-ferrule/
Bus bars can also be used in trailers, they are NOT only for busses.
Thanks for clarifying. You just saved me $42k.
😂
I want to use 2 Rich charge controllers, both 20amp, feeding 4 Battleborn 100aH LiFePo4's so I can have panels facing south and other panels facing west. Can I use the Lynx Distributor in such a set up? Thank you.
Yep!
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks. Is the answer still "yep" if I'm feeding a SunGoldPower 12v inverter/charger hitched up to the grid?
The Lynx Distributor is simply a positive and negative busbar with four fuse holders. The brand of components you attach to it does not matter.
Where do you get mega fuses for $5 each? I’m seeing prices more like $11-$25 each
Prices of fuses fluctuate with the price of the commodity market (which have skyrocketed over the last year since I made this video), but we've got them from $8 to $14 depending on size in our store: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/fuses-breakers/mega-fuses-fuse-holders/mega-fuses/
High quality ANL fuses are up to $30/ea as of writing this reply.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks for the additional info!
Nate, question...what is the size of the mega fuse? 300AMP or 500AMP? I am adding a 3000W inverter and will put a 500ANL Fuse between the inverter and the battery. Thanks for your feedback.
The 12V 3000W Victron Multiplus calls for a 400A fuse (when using 4/0 wire) in the user manual (pg 8 I believe). Also check this: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit/
@@EXPLORISTlife Do you offer any active duty military discounts?