Matt, thank you so much for making this easy to follow video! I was able to make my own calibration target, and when I tested my Tamron 70-200, it was back focusing by a full centimeter! I had to save the value at -20 for it to be sharp, and now, wow! What a difference!
it should be 20 to 50 x the focal length. At focus distance close to min focus distance the adjustment varies more and it stabilizes at focus distance at about 50x the focal length. For very long lenses (300mm+) 20x would do.
People asking about your specific camera AF tune ability - check your owners manual. For zooms check short, mid and tele ends if your lens - all should be the same, but make sure. As for the target itself - make one out of cardboard and an xacto knife. All you need to do is print out the checked target and ruler scale on paper and glue to the cardboard. Remember the scale part needs to be at a 45 degree angle for best precision. Lastly, this works better if you place camera on a flat table with the target the proper distance away.
Clinton Spindley I just checked on amazon.ca the cheapest one is $80 and the most expensive one is over $250. Ridiculous prices for a piece of plastic. So a do it yourself one is the only way to go for most of us.
Problem is, that some lenses, for example my FA*24/2, need different compensation for different ranges. When I match focus at 40cm (*-6), then at 3m distance photos are fairly misfocused (needs *+8 to be sharp). It would be nice to have camera function which will do calibration semi-automatically using contrast-detect AF as a control mechanism to compare with phase detect AF results automatically and store them in camera memory for different ranges and different zoom settings also. Then all you gona need would be nice contrasty tagret to focus at and tripod :)
this was much more useful than most of the crap i've found on stuff, thanks Matt. I bought a new Nikkor 85mm 1.4 recently, and it appears to be front focusing. The face and the eyes are not in critical focus, the detail in the eyes is especially telling.
Hey Matt, Front focus, back focus I think we all got the idea. I did noticed you gave your distance in centimeters and I had a hard time making this work for me. Of course I was trying to do it with a home made rig to see if the calibration was the problem. Further research gives me the impression the measurements should be in millimeters which could get me closer to the target and therefore make it easier to read the focus on the characters I was using. I was trying it with a 200mm lens on my d810 and while I did get it closer I might be able to nail it if the millimeter measurement is the correct one. I also ordered the spyder calibrator to try a more exact calibration.
I've found shooting down a tape measure on 45° while focusing on a number gives you a really good idea of the ratio of focus you have set, and allows you to tweak that focus how you like. Me I'm about 80% past the focal point on my 24to70 as it tends to front focus a bit for my tastes.
Hi, I would like to point out that camera focuses on a particular distance, NOT on a plane parallel to the image sensor. This is the basic concept upon which most cameras lock focus as far as I know. So, basically it focuses on an arch of a fixed radius (determined by the distance of the initial focus point and the camera). If we focus on this lens cap tool, and check the Autofocus shift on the scale so far off the center, it will always show a different result (specially with large apertures) as the vapor thin depth of field will cover an arch. Problems such as this are corrected in authorized service centers with a similar equipment, but with the focus lock are directly above the scale. And to make matters worse, the AF shift on almost every focus point is different, the center focus point being the most accurate. Just my 2 cents, but I'm not a professional photographer by any means. I might be completely wrong here.
It always amazes me how many people make derogatory comments about videos and complain about how the creator could have done it better, but yet I never see the troll that complains create a better video. What's that old saying....Oh yeah...."If you don't have anything nice to say about someone then STFU!" or something like that... :-) Thanks for the videos Matt!
Just a thought but... How else can a person get better. Not everyone knows everything so critic is a way for others to pass along information that maybe helpful. Key word (Maybe). Whether Matt choose to use it or not is up to him. But at least it is their for him to think about. Not everybody is as angry as you when they post comments. In fact I'm happy as Hell 😀😀😀 and liked the Video. And Psst guess what.. I would have liked to have seen the final focus on the second lens. Tyrion voice " I'm just pointing out a flaw".😀
Nice looking Spyder Lenscal kit. Very sturdy. Sony a99 does focus cal too, and it makes a HUGE difference with the fast primes, particularly for pixel peepers. It's really easy, especially with a good kit like the Spyder, and takes only a couple of minutes per lens. One thing you didn't mention Matt, make sure you're in your maximum aperture when you do the calibration, otherwise the depth of field won't be narrow enough to tell the difference.
My D3s has always been spot on with focus - none of my lenses have required adjustment. However, my first D800E, the only lens that would focus accurately on it was a Tokina macro lens. All my Nikon lenses (24mm 1.4G, 50mm 1.8G, 85 1.4G, 24-70 2.8, 70-200 2.8 VR, 24-120 VR) were outside of the +/- 20 range of adjustment, and I had to return the camera for a replacement. Should be getting my second D800E on Monday, hopefully that one actually autofocuses properly.
A big mistake for a professional web-based instructor (if not photographer) which may leave a lot of people confused, and worse, putting the wrong correction data into their cameras! God help us all! No wonder he gives up showing us the correction shots eventually and goes on to a different lens.
for the manual focus lens is depending on you eye or viewfinder not about AF focus calibration cuz it's non CPU lens. that function works for only autofocus ^^
Because if Matt hadn't allowed her in a video for much longer, the photography villagers were going to chase him down with pitchforks and Molotov cocktails. Tina is awesome
I don't care man; it's just about photography. Keep ur comments for yourself please. If you don't know whats photography is all about, stay with ur mum, darling... This was gross.
This might be a silly question but... I've got a Canon which works perfectly with the Canon 70-200mm however images are out of proper focus with my Tamron lens... when calibrating for the Tamron, will it affect the focusing of my Canon lens then?
It will not do anything to the Canon lens. The Canon system also does the calibration by the serial number so doing a micro adjustment for one lens does not affect any other lens.
Not too sure about Canon, but with Nikon, you can save the calibration for up to 12 different lenses/brands, and when you mount that lens the camera remembers the calibration you set for that particular lens. I can't believe that Canon also does not have a similar method. Home this helps.
Matt, SpyderLenscal instructions state the camera distance is supposed to be 25x to 50x the focal length. I know this video is old but might want to make that correction somewhere.
Never used this function before, now I"ve see this very good explanation and know what the meaning and function is, I'm going to calibrate every lens I own, thank YOU Mat (and the beautiful girl) ;0
Very informative. All the while I thought that when auto focusing the sensor senses when the image is sharp then sends a signal back to the lens to stop turning. Just like when one is focusing manually the eye will reckon when the image is right on focus then sends a signal to the hand to stop turning. Thanks, Matt and please pardon my ignorance.
Matt Granger the nikon d7100a (Tina's camera is my memory is ok) has fine tuning, page 270 on the English Nikon manual. www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D7100_EN.pdf . Thanks for your time and dedication on these videos.
Matt, at 3:27 I notice that the "0" line isn't lined up with the center axis line for the target. Both should be on the same axis and appear aligned at any viewing angle. This probably explains the backfocus close to 0.45. I noticed this because I've built and debugged my own target (for under $10). Well, anyway...you got it right at 4:58, so no worries.
I have just purchased a Lens Pyramid as it seems to do the same job and is about a third the price of the LensCal. Will see what the results are when it arrives.
cool, missed tina. I only have older or lower end bodies, so I was surprised when was playing with my friends d800 that they allow this... I've played with this before by tweaking the af sensor manually though on my lower bodies I've fixed..
great vid, i need to calebrate all my lenses now...after i get that Spyder Lenscal! :) thanks for all your videos Matt, i have learned a great deal from you!
Great video. I had a back focus issue on my D7000. I thought I was doing something wrong until I ran through a test. The camera ended up going in for repairs. Turned out this is a known issue on the D7000. There are printable focus test sheets that can be printed online. I used a ruler set at an angel with a note care half on a middle number for my tests.
My camera is D5000 and I have a 50 mm f 1.8g lens, I find it pretty difficult to get focused shots, what are the suggestions I should take from you? how do I calibrate my camera like this? I dont have those settings on my menu ;(
Hi Matt, Thanks for making this tutorial :) about AF micro adjustment . Gear info I shoot at the moment with a Nikon D7100 and have the 70-200 VR1 and the TC 1.7 II as main lens to shoot birds .(saving up for a 300/F2.8 or 500/F4). Question When i calibrate my Micro AF with Spyderlenscal must i do this with or without the TC ,Datacolor/Spyderlencal doesn't give any information about that on there site. Greetings Danyael
Hi Matt, wondering if you have used Reikan Focal? And if you could do a video on that please? I find your videos informative and helpful, thanks for taking time to post them.
Hi Matt, just wondering if you have ever used any Software to calibrate AF fine tune. I have come across Reikan Focal it runs the tests tethered through live view and generates reports on sharpness, f stop sweet spot, camera consistency and I believe it can set the af fine tune for you. I haven't bought the software yet but at near a 1/3 of the price of the product in your video I'm tempted to take the risk. Just wondered if you had any thoughts on this process vs the DIY method. I'm a big fan I your CZcams channel, keep up the good work! Tony
Yea that’s just a ruler and a piece of paper. It shouldn’t cost more than $2.50 since dollar tree is up to $1.25 an item now. Ouch. Focal pro is free online if you know where to look.
I could see what is necessary to calibrate your lens if you are using auto focus on the camera but if you use manual focus is not necessary because you don't rely on the camera neither the lens. If you are person that uses auto focus then it will be necessary to align (calibrate) your lenses. Old photographers and film camera were used more on manual focus than auto focus.
With my 100mm macro and 70-200 I was always having problems with photos not that sharp. I though it was maybe my technique and not holding it steady enough. Bought the Spyder LensCal and one lens was front focusing and the other back focus. Been getting much sharper images.
the non cpu lenses has af fintune issues you cant save the adjusted data to the menu but set the af finetune to +10 as defoult for the lens, and if you forgeth to set it back to nautral again al the other pre adjusted lenses in the menu wil be +10 out of af fintune in the menu
p zagorchev The entry level cameras don't have this feature. Do you actually have this problem? If yes, send you camera back to Canon. Cannot do it yourself.
Peter Moeller I think i have the problem. When i shoot portraits i make 4-5 pictures and only one of them is on focus. But in manual focus i dont have this problem.
Yes, you can. Put your camera on a tripod, put a large white paper/card on the floor. Take a marker and make a 3 inch or so line in the middle of the card from left to right. Turn on your camera, put the 3 inch line in the centre of the viewfinder. Set your focus to manual. Now turn the focus dial to make the scene out of focus. Switch to auto. Press whichever button you use to focus. Grab a big ruler with lines you can see clearly, perpendicular to the 3 inch line. Make and exposure. Enlarge to see if the number AT the line is sharp or not. Adjust accordingly with the fine tune function of the camera. Karl Taylor has a video which explains it.
Hi Matt, I'm using LensAlign MK II and tried to calibrate all of my lenses using the combined software that comes with it. The problem that calibrating a 50mm lens according to Nikon standards (5 to 10 times range) is perfect BUT when calibrating according to the distance I usually photograph, the lens needs over +20 in AFA value. Nikon service centre (Sydney) refuses to calibrate 50mm 1.8D type lens. So photographers need to pay attention more to how a lens performs as they use it rather than Nikon distance recommendations.
Once we calibrate the lens, the camera remembers it or we need to remember the level of fine tuning? Also, is this applicable only for AF or manual focus too?
Clarification - this procedure makes the adjustment to the camera with a particular lens mounted. If you mount another lens, you have to readjust the camera for that lens. Does that mean that every time you mount a new lens, you have to readjust the camera? If this is correct, depending on the camera, is there a way to store the adjustments as a preset so that recalibration is not necessary every time you change lenses? Also, does this mean that those of us with cameras that do not have manual auto focus are out of luck and are stuck with out of focus shots?
i have a nikon D800 and trying to fine tuning a 20mm 2.8 so what about if i reach to 20+ and 20- and the lens still doesn't focus properly in the center (still off) but no problem focusing manually in the center. what is the next step to that?
I have a Nikon D3200, with a 35mm and a 50mm. The 50 mm isn't focusing correctly. With the 35mm the pictures look really sharp, but with the 50mm they look blurry. My camera doesn't have AF fine-tune. Is there any other way I can calibrate my 50mm? Or should I wait until I have enough money to buy a new, better camera?
+Matt, would like to confirm something, a D7100 has the capability to store 12 different lens data. You indicated that these are recorded by serial number. My question is, as you change lenses, will the camera automatically recognize the replacement lens and automatically apply the correction(s) for each?
I bought a LensCal after the webinar and was shocked that it did not come with any real instructions. After floundering around the DataColor Website I eventually found and downloaded the manual. I understand the mechanics of the process but I want to ask what may be a really stupid question. If a camera/lens combo back focusses is the adjustment required positive or negative in the camera? Also have you found a really simple way to use 2 stands/tripods and get them level without too much stuffing around?
How do you calibrate a zoom lens with only one calibrating bar in the camera ? I have seen 2 calibrating sections in some cameras like the T for telephoto and W for wide angle . Lets say you had a 70-200 2.8 lens
Hi Matt,Good evening... Happy New year...Please could you kindly give me an advice how to calibrate a Nikon macro 105 f2.8 Vr lens.I have the chart with me but how about the focal length.How much would be the distance between lens and camera.Kindly advice.Your help is much appreciated.Thank you. Regards , Kevin
Matt.. this didn't work for me. I had the target perfectly aligned with 85 mm lens attached body. and i'm trying +20 to -20 the focus feather doesn't change! i'm confused.. it's slightly back focusing to give 1 cm mark bit shaper behind the target.. this doesn't change as i'm changing the default values... not sure whats going on!
Hey Matt did you have the chance to calibrate a canon 85mm F1.2L ii? I got one and was performing this AFMA because I bought recently and wanted to test wide open. I am doing it mainly manually and was somehow getting +17/18. Don't know if this is normal but it looks like a lot. Is this a sign that some bells should be ringing? I can return it still have 14 day and bought it from used in mint condition from a shop. Thanks
In the video, you say to place the camera 5 to 10 times the focal distance. The instruction PDF says "Make sure your camera and SpyderLENSCAL are 25-50 times the focal length apart". Your version makes more sense to be honest but where did you get it from?
Very good Topic! Thanks for all of your tips! Just to mention: The German Amazon Link doesnt link to the Item. Need to Check this one and the UK one. ;)
Matt, thank you so much for making this easy to follow video! I was able to make my own calibration target, and when I tested my Tamron 70-200, it was back focusing by a full centimeter! I had to save the value at -20 for it to be sharp, and now, wow! What a difference!
it should be 20 to 50 x the focal length. At focus distance close to min focus distance the adjustment varies more and it stabilizes at focus distance at about 50x the focal length. For very long lenses (300mm+) 20x would do.
Thank you Matt. You made my life much easier. I watched several videos about calibrating a Nikon lens. None of them was as good as yours. Perfect!
People asking about your specific camera AF tune ability - check your owners manual.
For zooms check short, mid and tele ends if your lens - all should be the same, but make sure.
As for the target itself - make one out of cardboard and an xacto knife. All you need to do is print out the checked target and ruler scale on paper and glue to the cardboard. Remember the scale part needs to be at a 45 degree angle for best precision.
Lastly, this works better if you place camera on a flat table with the target the proper distance away.
Clinton Spindley I just checked on amazon.ca the cheapest one is $80 and the most expensive one is over $250. Ridiculous prices for a piece of plastic. So a do it yourself one is the only way to go for most of us.
Problem is, that some lenses, for example my FA*24/2, need different compensation for different ranges. When I match focus at 40cm (*-6), then at 3m distance photos are fairly misfocused (needs *+8 to be sharp). It would be nice to have camera function which will do calibration semi-automatically using contrast-detect AF as a control mechanism to compare with phase detect AF results automatically and store them in camera memory for different ranges and different zoom settings also. Then all you gona need would be nice contrasty tagret to focus at and tripod :)
this was much more useful than most of the crap i've found on stuff, thanks Matt.
I bought a new Nikkor 85mm 1.4 recently, and it appears to be front focusing. The face and the eyes are not in critical focus, the detail in the eyes is especially telling.
Hey Matt, Front focus, back focus I think we all got the idea. I did noticed you gave your distance in centimeters and I had a hard time making this work for me. Of course I was trying to do it with a home made rig to see if the calibration was the problem. Further research gives me the impression the measurements should be in millimeters which could get me closer to the target and therefore make it easier to read the focus on the characters I was using. I was trying it with a 200mm lens on my d810 and while I did get it closer I might be able to nail it if the millimeter measurement is the correct one. I also ordered the spyder calibrator to try a more exact calibration.
I've found shooting down a tape measure on 45° while focusing on a number gives you a really good idea of the ratio of focus you have set, and allows you to tweak that focus how you like. Me I'm about 80% past the focal point on my 24to70 as it tends to front focus a bit for my tastes.
I always wondered about this! I'll have to look for a device that will let me calibrate my lenses. Thank you Matt.
Another very useful introduction (and product recommendation) to a subject that will improve many people's photographic work.
isn't it back focusing - focusing behind the subject instead of in the front of it???
Hi, I would like to point out that camera focuses on a particular distance, NOT on a plane parallel to the image sensor. This is the basic concept upon which most cameras lock focus as far as I know.
So, basically it focuses on an arch of a fixed radius (determined by the distance of the initial focus point and the camera).
If we focus on this lens cap tool, and check the Autofocus shift on the scale so far off the center, it will always show a different result (specially with large apertures) as the vapor thin depth of field will cover an arch.
Problems such as this are corrected in authorized service centers with a similar equipment, but with the focus lock are directly above the scale.
And to make matters worse, the AF shift on almost every focus point is different, the center focus point being the most accurate.
Just my 2 cents, but I'm not a professional photographer by any means. I might be completely wrong here.
Good to see you back, doing what you are good at doing :D
Grateful for the videos you make :)
Just ordered one of those gizmos. Thanks, Matt & Tina! David
It always amazes me how many people make derogatory comments about videos and complain about how the creator could have done it better, but yet I never see the troll that complains create a better video. What's that old saying....Oh yeah...."If you don't have anything nice to say about someone then STFU!" or something like that... :-)
Thanks for the videos Matt!
Just a thought but... How else can a person get better. Not everyone knows everything so critic is a way for others to pass along information that maybe helpful. Key word (Maybe). Whether Matt choose to use it or not is up to him. But at least it is their for him to think about. Not everybody is as angry as you when they post comments. In fact I'm happy as Hell 😀😀😀 and liked the Video. And Psst guess what.. I would have liked to have seen the final focus on the second lens. Tyrion voice " I'm just pointing out a flaw".😀
One of the most helpful videos on equipments. . Thanks buddy
Nice looking Spyder Lenscal kit. Very sturdy. Sony a99 does focus cal too, and it makes a HUGE difference with the fast primes, particularly for pixel peepers. It's really easy, especially with a good kit like the Spyder, and takes only a couple of minutes per lens. One thing you didn't mention Matt, make sure you're in your maximum aperture when you do the calibration, otherwise the depth of field won't be narrow enough to tell the difference.
cheers, yep it does make a big difference in some cases. PS - I did say you want to shoot wide open :)
Correct... Matt did indeed state that you "shoot wide open", which means at maximum aperture. Hence, your f/stop would be f1.4, not f/22.
My D3s has always been spot on with focus - none of my lenses have required adjustment. However, my first D800E, the only lens that would focus accurately on it was a Tokina macro lens. All my Nikon lenses (24mm 1.4G, 50mm 1.8G, 85 1.4G, 24-70 2.8, 70-200 2.8 VR, 24-120 VR) were outside of the +/- 20 range of adjustment, and I had to return the camera for a replacement. Should be getting my second D800E on Monday, hopefully that one actually autofocuses properly.
In the first shot taken (3:25) , the 1 in front of the 0 is sharper, so surely that means it's front-focusing rather than back focusing as stated?
Agree. I was wondering the same thing. Wish Matt would address this question.
yes its front focusing.
I'm confused front or back, and then when he misstates front or back, it doesn't help. "dislike"
A big mistake for a professional web-based instructor (if not photographer) which may leave a lot of people confused, and worse, putting the wrong correction data into their cameras! God help us all! No wonder he gives up showing us the correction shots eventually and goes on to a different lens.
for the manual focus lens is depending on you eye or viewfinder not about AF focus calibration cuz it's non CPU lens. that function works for only autofocus ^^
Very useful video and it's always nice when Tina joins you.
Like the video, but not sure why Tina is in it..
Cuz hot Asian chicks are hot.
Because if Matt hadn't allowed her in a video for much longer, the photography villagers were going to chase him down with pitchforks and Molotov cocktails.
Tina is awesome
we were filming today so included her - she is kind of a cohost of the channel
+Adam W The vid feel more friendly with her in it. She helps as a stand in for the 'audience.' (And yeah, she's cute, blah blah blah. :-P )
+Matt Granger Thanks for this. It would be great if Tina had a mike next time.
Always an excellent presentation. This guy is great. Thanks for all these posts. And that accent...so fun.
Thanks Matt, never realized I had that option on my d7100.
Can't you do this with just a ruler or straightened measuring tape?
Absolutely love Tina's necklace. Matt was talking about focus or something......
My eye is back focusing on Tina. I think it is perfectly calibrated.
Grow up man !
I don't care man; it's just about photography. Keep ur comments for yourself please. If you don't know whats photography is all about, stay with ur mum, darling... This was gross.
i think you have problems with ur sexual life. Tell my wife that I am an Homo....
It's about photography, and not porn. Do you get it ?
and i'll like my comment like you do yours. ;)
This might be a silly question but... I've got a Canon which works perfectly with the Canon 70-200mm however images are out of proper focus with my Tamron lens... when calibrating for the Tamron, will it affect the focusing of my Canon lens then?
It will not do anything to the Canon lens. The Canon system also does the calibration by the serial number so doing a micro adjustment for one lens does not affect any other lens.
Not too sure about Canon, but with Nikon, you can save the calibration for up to 12 different lenses/brands, and when you mount that lens the camera remembers the calibration you set for that particular lens. I can't believe that Canon also does not have a similar method. Home this helps.
Matt, SpyderLenscal instructions state the camera distance is supposed to be 25x to 50x the focal length. I know this video is old but might want to make that correction somewhere.
Great info. I had no idea the lenses had serial numbers readable by the camera.
Brilliant! I had no idea the camera was capable of being set for focus. Thank you so much.
Never used this function before, now I"ve see this very good explanation and know what the meaning and function is, I'm going to calibrate every lens I own, thank YOU Mat (and the beautiful girl) ;0
Thank you very much this is the best video for that topic , clear with good examples , Thanks
Very informative. All the while I thought that when auto focusing the sensor senses when the image is sharp then sends a signal back to the lens to stop turning. Just like when one is focusing manually the eye will reckon when the image is right on focus then sends a signal to the hand to stop turning. Thanks, Matt and please pardon my ignorance.
Hey mate, this saved a big trip and pay to Nikon to give it a look. Was able to fix my NIkon D800 trough a -20 compensation.
Cheers from Brazil!
Nice Video Matt! Stupid question: I've got the Nikon 24-70 f2.8 on my D800. Should I calibrate it on 24mm, on 70mm or on both focallengths?
I also have the D800, why not calibrate at 3 different angles to see if there is any difference?
Matt Granger the nikon d7100a (Tina's camera is my memory is ok) has fine tuning, page 270 on the English Nikon manual. www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D7100_EN.pdf . Thanks for your time and dedication on these videos.
Matt, at 3:27 I notice that the "0" line isn't lined up with the center axis line for the target. Both should be on the same axis and appear aligned at any viewing angle. This probably explains the backfocus close to 0.45. I noticed this because I've built and debugged my own target (for under $10). Well, anyway...you got it right at 4:58, so no worries.
I have just purchased a Lens Pyramid as it seems to do the same job and is about a third the price of the LensCal. Will see what the results are when it arrives.
cool, missed tina. I only have older or lower end bodies, so I was surprised when was playing with my friends d800 that they allow this... I've played with this before by tweaking the af sensor manually though on my lower bodies I've fixed..
Thank you, Matt. This and several of your videos are very informative.
By the way: that's a mighty wobbly tripod you have there. If you do this, you need to set your camera to
- 2 second self-timer
- Stabilizer OFF
Certainly using the AF-D range of lenses the lens is "NOT" recognized by it's serial number, only by the model. Check it out Matt!
great vid, i need to calebrate all my lenses now...after i get that Spyder Lenscal! :)
thanks for all your videos Matt, i have learned a great deal from you!
I have a question, doing these steps calibrates that particular lens right, I mean it does not apply the settings on the camera's itself.
Great video, very helpful.
This is very useful, Matt. Thanks!
Matt, great video thank you and Tina!
Great video. I had a back focus issue on my D7000. I thought I was doing something wrong until I ran through a test. The camera ended up going in for repairs. Turned out this is a known issue on the D7000.
There are printable focus test sheets that can be printed online. I used a ruler set at an angel with a note care half on a middle number for my tests.
My camera is D5000 and I have a 50 mm f 1.8g lens, I find it pretty difficult to get focused shots, what are the suggestions I should take from you? how do I calibrate my camera like this? I dont have those settings on my menu ;(
Exactly the video I needed. Very well done. Cheers, and thanks.
Hi Matt,
Thanks for making this tutorial :) about AF micro adjustment .
Gear info
I shoot at the moment with a Nikon D7100 and have the 70-200 VR1 and the TC 1.7 II as main lens to shoot birds .(saving up for a 300/F2.8 or 500/F4).
Question
When i calibrate my Micro AF with Spyderlenscal must i do this with or without the TC ,Datacolor/Spyderlencal doesn't give any information about that on there site.
Greetings Danyael
Please make a video showing how to calibrate a zoom such as the 70-200.
hi I have a Nikon red D5200 and there is no AF fine tune option. what do I do? Your menu look different from what I see on my menu
I guess that the cameras will be set up at a certain temperature and any variation of that would affect the focusing of the camera.
thanks Matt. Very useful info.
Hi Matt, wondering if you have used Reikan Focal? And if you could do a video on that please? I find your videos informative and helpful, thanks for taking time to post them.
what a revelation!!! i had no idea i could do my own calibration!!
Due to camera shake even on a tripod ,I find it better to test with a remotes shutter release which keeps the camera steady is far better
Hi Matt, just wondering if you have ever used any Software to calibrate AF fine tune.
I have come across Reikan Focal it runs the tests tethered through live view and generates reports on sharpness, f stop sweet spot, camera consistency and I believe it can set the af fine tune for you. I haven't bought the software yet but at near a 1/3 of the price of the product in your video I'm tempted to take the risk.
Just wondered if you had any thoughts on this process vs the DIY method.
I'm a big fan I your CZcams channel, keep up the good work!
Tony
Yea that’s just a ruler and a piece of paper. It shouldn’t cost more than $2.50 since dollar tree is up to $1.25 an item now. Ouch. Focal pro is free online if you know where to look.
I could see what is necessary to calibrate your lens if you are using auto focus on the camera but if you use manual focus is not necessary because you don't rely on the camera neither the lens. If you are person that uses auto focus then it will be necessary to align (calibrate) your lenses. Old photographers and film camera were used more on manual focus than auto focus.
With my 100mm macro and 70-200 I was always having problems with photos not that sharp. I though it was maybe my technique and not holding it steady enough. Bought the Spyder LensCal and one lens was front focusing and the other back focus. Been getting much sharper images.
the non cpu lenses has af fintune issues you cant save the adjusted data to the menu but set the af finetune to +10 as defoult for the lens, and if you forgeth to set it back to nautral again al the other pre adjusted lenses in the menu wil be +10 out of af fintune in the menu
Nice work Matt, just the vid I was looking for. Thank you. Keep making them. Andy😀🐇
I got a Canon 1200D and i don't have this function on my camera, any idea how i can fix the focus on 50mm f/1.8 lens ?
p zagorchev The entry level cameras don't have this feature. Do you actually have this problem? If yes, send you camera back to Canon. Cannot do it yourself.
Peter Moeller I think i have the problem. When i shoot portraits i make 4-5 pictures and only one of them is on focus. But in manual focus i dont have this problem.
p zagorchev Just try what the video says. What do you expect me to say or do?
Great video Matt, help me a lot, THX!
how do you make sure the camera and calibrator focal plane are perfect parallel to each other , the level bubble is for 'tilt' but 'shift'.
Very nice but can you do this without the lenscal?
Yes, you can. Put your camera on a tripod, put a large white paper/card on the floor. Take a marker and make a 3 inch or so line in the middle of the card from left to right. Turn on your camera, put the 3 inch line in the centre of the viewfinder. Set your focus to manual. Now turn the focus dial to make the scene out of focus. Switch to auto. Press whichever button you use to focus. Grab a big ruler with lines you can see clearly, perpendicular to the 3 inch line. Make and exposure. Enlarge to see if the number AT the line is sharp or not. Adjust accordingly with the fine tune function of the camera. Karl Taylor has a video which explains it.
Hi Matt,
I'm using LensAlign MK II and tried to calibrate all of my lenses using the combined software that comes with it. The problem that calibrating a 50mm lens according to Nikon standards (5 to 10 times range) is perfect BUT when calibrating according to the distance I usually photograph, the lens needs over +20 in AFA value. Nikon service centre (Sydney) refuses to calibrate 50mm 1.8D type lens. So photographers need to pay attention more to how a lens performs as they use it rather than Nikon distance recommendations.
Love your vids Matt. I bought a cheaper version of the Spyder because I have a couple lenses that are a bit off. Cheers! Off to calibrate.
This is awesome, thanks Matt!
Can I calibrate my lenses without the software in camera? I'm using a Nikon D5100 manufactured in 2011 I think.
Thanks!
Would you normally do this tethered?
Once we calibrate the lens, the camera remembers it or we need to remember the level of fine tuning? Also, is this applicable only for AF or manual focus too?
thanks for this - question is - if it is WAAAY out, and compensation doesn't work - should I be sending the lens back?
hi sir Matt! i'm a fan of yours from the Philippine. i love your "get your gear out" shirt.. :)
Clarification - this procedure makes the adjustment to the camera with a particular lens mounted. If you mount another lens, you have to readjust the camera for that lens. Does that mean that every time you mount a new lens, you have to readjust the camera? If this is correct, depending on the camera, is there a way to store the adjustments as a preset so that recalibration is not necessary every time you change lenses? Also, does this mean that those of us with cameras that do not have manual auto focus are out of luck and are stuck with out of focus shots?
no. you have lens profiles for each lens, when a different lens is mounted the corresponding profile is also loaded.
i have a nikon D800 and trying to fine tuning a 20mm 2.8
so what about if i reach to 20+ and 20- and the lens still doesn't focus properly in the center (still off) but no problem focusing manually in the center. what is the next step to that?
In their manual it says to set the camera at 30-50 times the focal length, not 5-10 times ... So which is correct ?
I have a Nikon D3200, with a 35mm and a 50mm. The 50 mm isn't focusing correctly. With the 35mm the pictures look really sharp, but with the 50mm they look blurry. My camera doesn't have AF fine-tune. Is there any other way I can calibrate my 50mm? Or should I wait until I have enough money to buy a new, better camera?
But how did you calibrate it within the camera settings?
Pretty amazing Matt thanks a lot!
+Matt, would like to confirm something, a D7100 has the capability to store 12 different lens data. You indicated that these are recorded by serial number. My question is, as you change lenses, will the camera automatically recognize the replacement lens and automatically apply the correction(s) for each?
I bought a LensCal after the webinar and was shocked that it did not come with any real instructions. After floundering around the DataColor Website I eventually found and downloaded the manual. I understand the mechanics of the process but I want to ask what may be a really stupid question. If a camera/lens combo back focusses is the adjustment required positive or negative in the camera? Also have you found a really simple way to use 2 stands/tripods and get them level without too much stuffing around?
How do you calibrate a zoom lens with only one calibrating bar in the camera ? I have seen 2 calibrating sections in some cameras like the T for telephoto and W for wide angle . Lets say you had a 70-200 2.8 lens
What about image stabilization setting during calibration? Does that make a difference?
I have the Nikon 40mm 2.8G micro lens and go between shooting macro and longer distances about equally. Which square should I focus on to calibrate.
Hi Matt,Good evening... Happy New year...Please could you kindly give me an advice how to calibrate a Nikon macro 105 f2.8 Vr lens.I have the chart with me but how about the focal length.How much would be the distance between lens and camera.Kindly advice.Your help is much appreciated.Thank you.
Regards ,
Kevin
I use FoCal software (B & H ) for my 7D mk2 it's quick and easy and takes the human error out of it and can tell me other things about the lens
can you advise on calibrating a macro. If you are Wide open, your focal point is so narrow it might be very difficult to correct for.
Matt.. this didn't work for me. I had the target perfectly aligned with 85 mm lens attached body. and i'm trying +20 to -20 the focus feather doesn't change! i'm confused.. it's slightly back focusing to give 1 cm mark bit shaper behind the target.. this doesn't change as i'm changing the default values... not sure whats going on!
hey matt, isn't the zero should be on the center side of that tiny box?
Will a Nikon D7200 save the settings per lense? Or is it rather a global setting and you have to repeat these steps any time you switch lenses?
Trying to calibrate my 24-105. What is the difference between adjusting the W and T?
Hey Matt did you have the chance to calibrate a canon 85mm F1.2L ii?
I got one and was performing this AFMA because I bought recently and wanted to test wide open. I am doing it mainly manually and was somehow getting +17/18. Don't know if this is normal but it looks like a lot. Is this a sign that some bells should be ringing? I can return it still have 14 day and bought it from used in mint condition from a shop. Thanks
In the video, you say to place the camera 5 to 10 times the focal distance. The instruction PDF says "Make sure your camera and SpyderLENSCAL are 25-50 times the focal length apart". Your version makes more sense to be honest but where did you get it from?
All I can say is good on ya, mate!
Hi! Question: For example, I have a 35mm 1.8g lens calibrated on a D7000 body, can I still use it on my D5200 body and still get sharp images?
Very good Topic! Thanks for all of your tips!
Just to mention: The German Amazon Link doesnt link to the Item. Need to Check this one and the UK one. ;)
Thanks!