My love hate relationship continues with the mid, another rear diff striped. So time for a gear diff and then wr can really give this car a good run out on the track 🤞
Your content is great, shows the aftermath of someone racing their Optima in the real world. Look forward to when you revisit the Optima and the diff issue again. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, hopefully save someone killing there diff lol, hopefully someone comes up with a solution, for now. Just keep the slipper looser than you would expect. The gear diff is metal so no issue’s with that. Other than this issue the car drove great 👌
Yeah Richard what a letdown they’d make all these robust upgrades all over the car only to have a gear made of cheese inside the gearbox especially since it’s a good bit of effort to get to/replace - I’m surprised some enterprising fellow isn’t already selling replacements in alloy, surely it’s only a matter of time though!
I remember these and other top buggies being bombproof back in the day especially on grass. I've had similar issues with my Procat on Astro, to the point I've given up, shelved both classics, bought a modern RC10. Sorry to see your having trouble, but at least a gear diff is available, hopfully this will get it sorted, other than that, the mid kit is quality i hear. cheers Richard, awesome stuff. AB.
Too bad these diffs are letting go so quickly, there's just something about the simplicity of a gear diff that I'm appreciating more and more these days. Lol. Great video pal!
The diff pulley/gear is only supported in the middle by a ball bearing. When power is applied, think the gear side gets pushed away from the idler gear while the pulley side is being pulled by the belt, resulting in the mesh between the idler and the gear side of the diff getting too loose. Just a theory….
And...if you look at the metal gear diff, it's supported on both ends by a huge bearings! There's little chance that your mesh and belt tension will change when power is applied. Forgot to thank you for the video. I'm still working on my Optima mid so I appreciate you sharing your your experiences.
@@_.Lumi._ cheers, sadly ive moved the mid on now, it would t get a lot of use now as i didnt het it into a few races i wanted 😭 and i used the money to fund the rc10 and a bit in reserve incase i can get the rc10 T 🤞
That's horrible to see on that. Those cars are so high quality, I used to have an Optima Mid as a kid. Then again, those cars weren't designed for brushless power.
I aint taking the front apart, to much faff, i’ll just pray to the RC gods, maybe make a small sacrifice. Burn an RC10 world new in box to appease them 👍😂
Man, I'd better have a look at the geartrain of my Turbo Optima, its got an 8.5t in it and a few runs around the dirt tracks.... no issue yet but it wouldnt hurt to inspect it before it totally dies... Keep us posted on what gets it sorted... maybe a bit looser slipper would be one option, but it shouldnt have to be so loose that it takes away too much performance... Cheers...
Bugger ! Not again these kyosho diffs are a bit if a let down , such a shame on such an awesome buggy otherwise . At least a gear diff should be hassle free, not ideal for out doors but for piece of mind it should be worth it. Cheers for the update ;)
I've recently dug out my old Optima mid Custom Special that I raced way back. Am very tempted to look at the possibilities for racing again, but don't want to take it too seriously. Any hints and tips for where to start from a club perspective (I'm uk midlands based), what to upgrade and swap out much appreciated - it still has the old 27mhz radio gear and nicad batteries at the moment!
Hi, i can highly recomend you run it. I would look at new radio and reciver to get rid of glitching, prob a hobby wing 1060 esc and a brushed motor. Keep the cost down to start. Brca website should give you details of local clubs. Some will have a vintage heat, but allways worth going down to see how the day runs.
@@lo2713 thanks I think I will. I assume modern brushed motors are inherently better than old ones? I've got a Parma Cyclone Modified that I used to run, but that was over 30 years ago! I'm guessing Lipo batteries are the way forward too? I think my main concern is it all gets taken too seriously, but like you say, I think visiting a club or 2 will give me a view on that 👍
@@peterwarner9572 brushless is defo the way to go, but buying a cheap nihm will be better to get you going. So long as it fits your car. If you go lipo then you need charging bags, safe storage and they need more care. Vintage events are more fun, modern is where the serious racers go. My local club has a lot of vintage runners. Some even drive 2 hours as they enjoy the relaxed environent in are vintage heats, and we run on grass, so its more suited to the vintage buggys
@@lo2713 thanks for the info. It's a lot more complex than back in the 80s and 90s. I think your advice to start with a simple setup that works with what I've got is the right one. Then I can evolve things as I get more experience with it all. A friend has a couple of unused lithium ion batteries that look the same shape as the old 7.2 packs. Would they be a good option (he says I can have those for nothing)
@@lo2713 That's a shame but at least you have experienced the re releases of them both now. What is your fave vintage 4WD off roader? Also do you have it in your collection?
Wow that plastic is awful, i run a 9.0t motor sometimes in my 38 year old hotshot 2 and its plastic appears to be way stronger🤦 to think 38 year old tamiya plastic is better than kyosho rere plastic 🫢🤦🤦.... Im shocked so a note to kyosho..... Come on guys buck up a bit cuz the prices ur charging for these kits isn't reflecting to good value to well, brushless motors are used nowadays so bigger and better gears and transmission would be a good idea to upgrade b4 selling the expensive kits.
Your content is great, shows the aftermath of someone racing their Optima in the real world. Look forward to when you revisit the Optima and the diff issue again. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, hopefully save someone killing there diff lol, hopefully someone comes up with a solution, for now. Just keep the slipper looser than you would expect. The gear diff is metal so no issue’s with that. Other than this issue the car drove great 👌
Yeah Richard what a letdown they’d make all these robust upgrades all over the car only to have a gear made of cheese inside the gearbox especially since it’s a good bit of effort to get to/replace - I’m surprised some enterprising fellow isn’t already selling replacements in alloy, surely it’s only a matter of time though!
Yeah, i think someone will come up with an improved one at somepoint. Just depends on how tricky it is to do i suppose ?
I remember these and other top buggies being bombproof back in the day especially on grass. I've had similar issues with my Procat on Astro, to the point I've given up, shelved both classics, bought a modern RC10. Sorry to see your having trouble, but at least a gear diff is available, hopfully this will get it sorted, other than that, the mid kit is quality i hear. cheers Richard, awesome stuff. AB.
It is, just a shame the ball diff aint strong enough. But the gear diff is pretty bomb proof 👍
Too bad these diffs are letting go so quickly, there's just something about the simplicity of a gear diff that I'm appreciating more and more these days. Lol. Great video pal!
Yeah, there just not the best for a grass track, but im not the best driver either 😂 atleast the gear diff is metal. That wont strip 👍
The diff pulley/gear is only supported in the middle by a ball bearing. When power is applied, think the gear side gets pushed away from the idler gear while the pulley side is being pulled by the belt, resulting in the mesh between the idler and the gear side of the diff getting too loose. Just a theory….
Its one ive heard aswell, so there could be something in it ?
And...if you look at the metal gear diff, it's supported on both ends by a huge bearings! There's little chance that your mesh and belt tension will change when power is applied. Forgot to thank you for the video. I'm still working on my Optima mid so I appreciate you sharing your your experiences.
@@_.Lumi._ cheers, sadly ive moved the mid on now, it would t get a lot of use now as i didnt het it into a few races i wanted 😭 and i used the money to fund the rc10 and a bit in reserve incase i can get the rc10 T 🤞
I'd love a optima mid but this issue just puts me off. I've seen this before. Hopefully Kyosho are aware of the problem.
Yeah, the gear dif is certanly the way forward 👍
That's horrible to see on that. Those cars are so high quality, I used to have an Optima Mid as a kid. Then again, those cars weren't designed for brushless power.
Yeah, kyosho have made some improvements. Belt tensioner and a slipper. But i recon the original would last a lot longer 🤔
Looks like a metal diff half is needed....
Yup, got the gear diff to go in it for now. Atleast i can lean on the car a lot more 😎
No way… I’m definitely getting myself a gear diff now!
I would highly recomend it if your going to run it, better safe than sorry
@@lo2713 do you have a list of parts you need… I think I might if you don’t
@@MattSpender-ix5yb cheers, ive just put an order in for them. Thats my overtime spent 😂
@@lo2713 😂
Nice machine💪👌
Cheers, its one of my fave 4wd runners at the mo 👌 its so nice to drive.
I’d be having a look at the front gearbox too matey..incase that belt has took some plastic with it to the front diff
I aint taking the front apart, to much faff, i’ll just pray to the RC gods, maybe make a small sacrifice. Burn an RC10 world new in box to appease them 👍😂
Man, I'd better have a look at the geartrain of my Turbo Optima, its got an 8.5t in it and a few runs around the dirt tracks.... no issue yet but it wouldnt hurt to inspect it before it totally dies...
Keep us posted on what gets it sorted... maybe a bit looser slipper would be one option, but it shouldnt have to be so loose that it takes away too much performance...
Cheers...
Turbo optima should be fine, its just the ball diffs ive had issue’s with. The gear diffs are metal so nice and strong 👍
You need to get RW racing to look at it, perhaps acetal idle gear or acetal diff gear
Ive got the alloy idle gear coming, more to loose weigh than anything, the gear diff will add weight. So hopefully this will help balance it out ?
Bugger ! Not again these kyosho diffs are a bit if a let down , such a shame on such an awesome buggy otherwise . At least a gear diff should be hassle free, not ideal for out doors but for piece of mind it should be worth it. Cheers for the update ;)
Yeah, just a pity they didnt beef it up, but like you say. Gear diff is bomb proof 👍 so i’ll be cranking that boost and turbo up now 😁
I've recently dug out my old Optima mid Custom Special that I raced way back. Am very tempted to look at the possibilities for racing again, but don't want to take it too seriously. Any hints and tips for where to start from a club perspective (I'm uk midlands based), what to upgrade and swap out much appreciated - it still has the old 27mhz radio gear and nicad batteries at the moment!
Hi, i can highly recomend you run it. I would look at new radio and reciver to get rid of glitching, prob a hobby wing 1060 esc and a brushed motor. Keep the cost down to start. Brca website should give you details of local clubs. Some will have a vintage heat, but allways worth going down to see how the day runs.
@@lo2713 thanks I think I will. I assume modern brushed motors are inherently better than old ones? I've got a Parma Cyclone Modified that I used to run, but that was over 30 years ago! I'm guessing Lipo batteries are the way forward too? I think my main concern is it all gets taken too seriously, but like you say, I think visiting a club or 2 will give me a view on that 👍
@@peterwarner9572 brushless is defo the way to go, but buying a cheap nihm will be better to get you going. So long as it fits your car. If you go lipo then you need charging bags, safe storage and they need more care. Vintage events are more fun, modern is where the serious racers go. My local club has a lot of vintage runners. Some even drive 2 hours as they enjoy the relaxed environent in are vintage heats, and we run on grass, so its more suited to the vintage buggys
@@lo2713 thanks for the info. It's a lot more complex than back in the 80s and 90s. I think your advice to start with a simple setup that works with what I've got is the right one. Then I can evolve things as I get more experience with it all. A friend has a couple of unused lithium ion batteries that look the same shape as the old 7.2 packs. Would they be a good option (he says I can have those for nothing)
Would you be able to get a pair of the JC Racing mint green wheels and compare to PS54 cobalt green ?
I would, but then ive got wheels i wouldnt use. Ive overspent as it is this month lol
@@lo2713 thought you got them free from JC?
What did you prefer this or the 870c re release?
@@StainedGlassEyeBalls the optima, sadly both have moved on now to new homes. Sadly i dont have the room to keep them all
@@lo2713 That's a shame but at least you have experienced the re releases of them both now. What is your fave vintage 4WD off roader? Also do you have it in your collection?
@@StainedGlassEyeBalls it will never leave my collection 👍 will be revealed in a future video 😉
@@lo2713 Look forward to seeing it mate!
Slipper too tight ?
Was to loose, gave it a 1/4 turn and was slippeng a little, gear diff on its way 👍
Damn
Thats pretty much what i said 😂
Nightmare, not really good enough from kyosho with the amount of money you've spent
Yeah, esp when they just say to run the slipper looser ? You shouldnt have to have the slipper to loose. And tamiya manage with no slipper lol
Wow that plastic is awful, i run a 9.0t motor sometimes in my 38 year old hotshot 2 and its plastic appears to be way stronger🤦 to think 38 year old tamiya plastic is better than kyosho rere plastic 🫢🤦🤦.... Im shocked so a note to kyosho.....
Come on guys buck up a bit cuz the prices ur charging for these kits isn't reflecting to good value to well, brushless motors are used nowadays so bigger and better gears and transmission would be a good idea to upgrade b4 selling the expensive kits.
Yeah, ive run a 10.5 in a top force. And no gear issue’s there. Tainted my kyosho experiance a bit this
Thats not the best quality from Kyosho :(
Sadly not, but the car was great to drive other than the diff