The Importance of Air Sealing and Insulating Attics
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 05. 2012
- www.DrEnergySaver.com | 1-866-607-0191
Homeowners across the U.S. tend to mistakenly believe that proper attic insulation is only adequate in the cold regions of the country, to maintains the home's heat.
Larry Janesky, founder of Dr. Energy Saver explains that insulation is also needed in warmer areas. Insulation prevents heat transfer. It prevents hot air from being transferred to the outside in the wintertime, and prevents the attic's scorching heat from being transferred into the living areas of your home during the summer. In doing so, you are considerably relieving the burden on your air conditioner systems.
Furthermore, Larry explains why insulation without proper air sealing won't help you save much energy. When a home is built, there are a lot of holes left on the building envelope around pipes, wiring, recessed lights, duct chases, etc. All these holes will allow conditioned air -- that you paid to heat or cool -- to leak out of the house, and unconditioned air from the outside to enter the home. As a result, your HVAC system will work much harder to keep up with the air exchange, significantly increasing your heating or cooling bills. Because the energy loss through the typical attic can be enormous, a properly air sealed and insulated attic becomes the main component of a truly green and energy efficient home, and it is our main priority at Dr. Energy Saver.
If you would like to learn more about saving energy through energy efficient attics and many other ways to save money and energy, visit our website or call us for a comprehensive home energy audit! - Jak na to + styl
very true. found out after -15 in feb most of the month that the black vent tubes for the main stacks were cut out about 3/8 - 1/2 in in a circle around them on each floor. man what a pain..
114 today in Sacramento. I’m listening
where I live and work, there is a new inspection for Air Barrier, where all wires/potlights/holes in the ceiling/walls must be foamed before we can start actually insulating a house. However blowers and spray foamers are a separate company that does their thing. We insulate and handle leaks, and those other companies spray and foam (with sometimes really poor results).
Thank you for your videos
This video is very informative. You can reduce your home's heating and cooling costs through proper insulation and air sealing techniques. These techniques will also make your home more comfortable.
Ty This helped me sooo much
Did it
John, which DES are you with?
I live in Florida and I have a tighter Attic then shown in your video. Would you recommend removing the 1974 insulation before blowing in more? Thank you.
All the information I've seen says as long as your existing insulation is not wet or moldy, you can just spray more insulation on top of it, or put more batt insulation on top.
It's amazing how much you sound like Mr. Wizard from the 50's.
7 yrs later he's sill Mr wizard
What type of foam are you using to seal those gaps?
Great Stuff.
What kind of insulation is that white stuff? I'm about to throw some cellulose into my attic, which currently has that white insulation.
This video is awesome! Does malpractice mean it is illegal? What type of "Good Stuff" do I get to air seal?
+Anthony Sharp I tend to use the fire rated version for the attic, just because I'm not planning on having to re-check it very often. However, you only really need that around penetrations (for wiring, tubing, and ducts,) for the general sealing of the top plates and studs you should be able to use the regular stuff.
crimsonsamuraiftw
Fire rated stuff still burns
@@andrewbeaudry4399 Yup. My understanding is the fireblock foam is the same formula as the regular stuff and it definitely still burns, I believe it's just orange so inspectors can easily see it.
should u vacuum before insulating attic?
5 yrs ago
@@CCCC-tq8yo3 yrs ago
Why cant we duct the radiant heat in attic during the winter months through HVAC return to then be filtered and recirculated through living space.
How exactly would you use the radiant heat to warm the return air without letting the air lose heat to the attic? Let's say you run a large, flat, dark colored sheet metal duct through the attic to try to pick up radiant heat. When it's, for example, 20 degrees outside and maybe 30 degrees in the attic, do you really think that duct would pick up enough radiant heat to offset the heat lost from running your warm 70 degree interior air through that duct? Highly doubtful. But even if you did, how would you manage the significant heat losses from running your warm return air through that large insulated duct when it's night time and your heating load is at its highest but there isn't any sun to create radiant heat? What about when the roof is covered in snow and there is virtually no radiant heat gain? And how would you keep that radiant heater duct from picking up a massive amount of radiant heat in the summer when heat gain isn't wanted?
How much settling is there in cellulose insulation over the years? I was told that with settling it loses its effectiveness?
tibzig1 my understanding is it compresses but doesn't lose R value as it does. It does however become unsettled very easily. It makes a mess and starts coming into the home.
Ever seen your ceiling get dark marks by your air vents? That's the cellulose.
@@ciscokidd6119 It definitely will lose its effectiveness when it settles, but how much or how long this takes I'm not sure. Insulation works by trapping air and preventing it from moving around, so if it loses its air then it will lose much of its insulating effect.
@@averyalexander2303 cellulose will settle about 3/4" over its life time
How much air moves through the top plate of a wall?
Assuming it isn't sealed well? Depends on way too many factors to even estimate. If the room is under a mechanically induced pressure differential such as from a ducted HVAC system running with the door closed and the supply and return airflow is not perfectly balanced (which is almost always the case), potentially a lot if it isn't sealed. If the attic is under a mechanically induced pressure differential such as from electric ventilation or wind turbines, likely a lot. Even differences in temperature and humidity between the house and the attic can create pressure differentials that move significant amounts of air. If you want to see for yourself, a good bet is to look at the insulation around the holes and gaps. If it's noticeably darker around the gaps as it usually is, that means air has been flowing through there and the insulation has been acting like a filter.
can I buy that foam and foam gun somewhere?
Yes you can but unless it is a small job you will not be able to get it at a good price to save DIY.
Amazon or a bigger home Depot or Lowe's. it will clog if it isn't cleaned out before being stored for a while
Rock wool was here BEFORE fiberglass. Since fiberglass was marketed, house fires skyrocketed, since fiberglass will smolder and burn, will also mold if it gets wet. Rock wool. WILL NOT burn and does not absorb water .
David Mandziuk fiberglass does not burn or smelter you can hold a torch to it, only exception is if the paper catches on fire and it's untreated paper
Rock wool or Mineral Wool is the best and it does not mold either. It can actually dry out too.
you seal where the living space meets the attic, so no heated/warmed air can escape. the attic itself is still vented.
The attic is still hot, however. Roof with a light color.
Forget dust collecting, buries everything, nasty blown in .
Use rigid polystyrene over or between rafters and between attic flooring and ceiling below.
I did it with the help of Avasva solutions.
even if u don't air seal, insulation is still better then nothing
Why is he WHISPERING?
Just don't buy a house and u will save lots of money
It all depends. If your rent is 1200 a month and you can get a house for 500 month and do a lot of the work yourself.
Yhis guy bores me crosseyed