Coach Compares: Pro Climber VS Amateur Climber
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- čas přidán 21. 01. 2024
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Some of you may have seen this was uploaded yesterday but I had to take it down because of a glitch and re-upload it today! Sorry about that but hey at least you get to see Alex, Robin and me twice now haha
I like how he called Magnus to ask how he should pronounce "Rungne", he got an answer, and still called it rug-knee
Haha that’s because Magnus replied to my voice message once we had finished filming.
✨maggyboo✨
i need more Alex! shes a great climber.
as a 5ft 2 climber i loved watching her as most short climbers i have seen on youtube are 5ft 4
More Alex coming soon!
THIS COLLAB IS SICK !!
thank you! More to come!
Nice video, but the thing that I find all small/tall comparison videos lack is the focus on ape-index. One of the main reasons IFSC world cup athletes are 'smaller' (average for men is around 1.75m) is because most of them have crazy plus ape-indexes. So if you're smaller and have long arms, you enjoy both benefits of being able to fit in small boxes but also being able to reach faraway holds.
But you have Bad leverage
@@ChargedJosh actually watch the newest video of climbing stuff. ondra says its nearly impossible to get good endurance with a crazy high ape index
he definitly talks about pros
@@Fred-oz3tw Ondra was talking about lead climbing, in bouldering endurance is almost a non-factor
That orange v5 looked insanely hard for the grade lol
haha I could have got it wrong. We will say V5 ++++++
Looked spot on to me
It seems like height advantage is better at lower grades. Strength does not scale well with increased body weight and tall people are going to be heavier, so short people will have the advantage as increased strength to body weight is required for higher grades.
Well, Janja for example is taller, heavier bit stronger than many light female climbers..and we do see the advantages of height in pro competitions. Especially when they make the boulder not even realistic to start for a short climber, as it was with a Japanese female climber in the finals, forgot her name
@@Plaksa2004 That's valuable information. My assumption is definitely not bullet proof. I bet there are combinations of holds, distances between holds and wall angles that would favour taller people despite the diminishing returns effect of body weight to strength ratio.
@@Plaksa2004 I think you're talking about Ai Mori, she's incredible
I loved the chemistry in this bit. Alex is so strong.
She is super strong 💪
I always thought that me being tall has above anything one consequence: I learn less technique and do more things with bad technique. Meanwhile, shorter climbers may take another lap or two on some boulders, but they figure something out they can use in the future. So sometimes I purposefully try to finish a boulder without using my reach, especially on the last move. As soon as I cannot just reach something, I am more likely to be stumped.
In my experience, anything over 6A height is almost never an advantage. Might be how my gym sets routes, but I very rarely feel like I can skip a hold or reach it from a lower foothold when it's 6A or over. Then again I'm 1.89cm and live in the Netherlands where the average male is like 181 or something stupid so it could be that.
@@suckieduckie Either 189cm or 1.89m. Otherwise, you're definitely the smallest person in the Netherlands 🤣
In my climbing gyn, they've started setting 'shorty' boulders for children and very small climbers. They're set at a range of levels, to at least 6c. I'm little over 5ft5 so I often look with envy when a taller person can just reach. But doing those shorty boulders really helped me understand 'tall problems' a bit better. There were quite a few where I just couldn't get the start because I found it hard to fit in the box. Would be cool to do a comparison with the same person and two versions of the same boulder, where with one the holds are way further apart and the other way closer to mimick height difference (and cut out more other variables).
It also kinda goes both ways, When your tall and not skinny your center of gravity will be further from the wall coupled with short distances from feet to hands can make some insane leverage working against you. Personally climbing outdoors feels great as I can find holds that are in the range where I am the strongest instead of being forced to do everything with bent arms or being pulled away from the wall.
Gosh, Alex is so pretty but so strong. I absolutely love the chemistry b/w all 3. Loved the collab, though I wonder why I watch these videos when I'm nowhere close to their level, haha.
She is super strong! Thanks it was a very fun session 😃. You will get there, just keep going and enjoy it ❤️
Love this video! Firstly as its at the Project and secondly with my favourite climber! I wasn't even there and I'm in awe 😱 oh and loving the banter between you 3!
@24:02 amazing beta about power spots.
Thank you for sharing this Alex.
Alex is such a beast! it’s unreal
Awesome video!
Thank you!
Love to see the project in a video, I'd fallen off of a bunch of those while they were still up 😂
Wow can't believe you got Alex in a video - she is an iiiiicon!
I know it was very exiting!! She is awesome 🙌. And there are some more to come 😃
Great video, always interesting hearing the perspective being a 6.3 climber myself. A lot of people do say "it's because you're tall". Awesome to see you down my local also!
Thank you 😃. It’s a great gym
Great video. Good banter !
Thank you 🙏
Alex is incredible! Love to see her on the channel
She is awesome
@6:25 *experienced Alex.
I look up to Lynn Hill as to how I trained. There certainly is an age difference between myself and Lynn, yet that kind of falls away when we talk about climbing. So as the younger student, it’s a privilege to learn from masters.
Oh man, Alex Puccio was my ultimate crush when I was a student. Glad to see her on this channel, as strong and pretty as ever
hey im alex puccio i have crush on you too, send me 50 dollar fortnite card
You cracked me up several times on this video, definitely subscribing after this one
Thank you!
I'm 5ft and there are some slab settings in my local that I just can't do because the holds are beyond my reach to static, and they're not routes you can be explosive/dynamic on. Such a shame because I actually love slab 😢
that was a surprise you were climbing at my local gym hope you enjoyed it, keep up the great content
seriously loll
saw another vid in which alex was at mine and it was surreal going to the gym later that day and seeing the exact same problem she worked hahaha
Where is it?
Project climbing centre in Poole @@AdamBuxton-challand
Being tall (or at least not short) is a massive advantage as a beginner. At a more advanced grade it is more even or at least not a massive advantage being tall.
It was definitely interesting to see Zander Waller recently downgrade sleepwalker partly due to his size...makes me wonder if we will ever
develop a grading system more relative to size... I think a lot of top climbers establishing problems and
grades are trying to set the grade for the average climber but perhaps with the number of fa established by men vs women and the resulting height distribution that "average" is not necessarily where it should be for the broad population of climbers
It's funny how much of a debate this is when you can very clearly see in the comp stats that climbing tends to favor "average" height people.
I always joke about the benefit of being "average man height," even though i am tall for a woman at 5'10" i usually don't find to many routes at the gym that are insanely reachy or bunchy for me.
I definitely side with alex!! I am the same height as Alex and have a -6cm ape index... I have recently moved to Sweden where I am SHORT and the amount of boulder moves I can't do the intended beta for is mad. It's about 60% of problems, there will be a move I have to find an alternative method for. There's also a few I have decided not to do for safety reasons (don't want to have to make a health insurance claim if I crack my head open) where something will unintentionally become a downwards dyno, and there's a large hold or volume in the fall area. Hard no to that. Then I see someone like my partner who is 5'10 come along and do it easy peasy. I'm still in the process of learning not to get mad over it lol
same here I am 5ft2 luckily I have a +1 ape index but my hands are about the same size as my climbing buddies. My gym lately has a bunch of tall people climbs. I still manage but I almost have to do double the moves my mates do.
@8:03, love how causal Alex is. Like plenty guys who are body building, their arms dont look nearly this defined for their height and body mass.
This comes from doing what you love and probably not caring about visuals.
@06:18 Thought Josh was about to say: "I always looked up to Alex.. and now she's looking up to me" 😂
Standing at 6.6 feet (200 cm), I can say that being tall is a substantial advantage for boulder climbs up to 6b. In this range, technique is not too critical yet, and it's often possible to just go from a good hold to another. For harder grades, it depends, but especially from 6c+ upwards, it often becomes a disadvantage. "Fitting into the box" and leverage can be problematic for taller climbers. Particularly with super small crimps and small-coin-like foot holds, it's always a disadvantage since fitting on them becomes harder. Professional climbers are rarely tall, for good reason. Anyway, in lead climbing, being tall is less frequently a problem.
yea routes seem way easier but bouldering gets gross
love their reaction to "2nd place of first place looser" 11:50
😂😂
Loved Alex’s competitive energy in this
Sehr schönes und interessantes Video. Immer wieder toll anzusehen. Alex Puccio und Mina Markovic sind die hübschesten Frauen im Klettersport.
Say "oh this was set by a short person" sound like a skill issue very frequently as a short person I have to do a crazy dyno that was never intended from my position because I can't reach during a static climb
B1, Josh because of his speed. B2 Josh because he did the reach to crimp static. B3, Alex obvious win. B4, Josh for his beta break. B5 Alex, pure power looking like an 80s action figure in that tank top and got closer. B6 Alex dominated! B7 Alex is just so strong. My score, Alex 4 Josh 3.
Does Alex do much YT? She's pretty awesome to watch. Some pretty funny commentary XD
Awesome video! I wonder if the best height for a climber is to be medium like 5 foot 9, would be awesome to see a 1v1v1 tall v medium v short 😂
Alex is absolutely amazing foot work technique its on another level. good luck to her on future comps.
She is really an amazing climber. Retired from comp years ago though
@@hayslivesinthedesert whats her last name? I want to watch and steal techniques as i am 5ft2? and could find it useful
@@blackveilbridesninjaPuccio (ROAP climbing with her husband)
@18:08, I dont have your strength Alex. Being the same height (maybe slightly longer arm span though): I think its correct to be to the right. Using the left most hold to stand onto. (In a noncomp setting: the setter should have given the short people a far right crimp as a transition. Cause this looks the correct beta for us, than having to go low to the left and stand up to nothing lol)
This is my home gym! Awesome to see filming there but why is there no shout out for the gym?
It’s a great gym. I put a pop up at the start with the gyms name and a link in the description
Oh yeah, sorry I'm clearly blind 😂
I like the moral of the stories, because in the end we can change our height and it is what it is. Its not like we all aspire to be olympic climber and for the majority of us, if we can go in the double digit grade we will be really proud. We do not need to have the perfect climbing body to achieve that, just some hard work.
That said, I do believe the harder the grade get, the more the smaller climber will have an advantage, mostly because they will have stronger finger and stronger shoulder pound for pound. At least that's my interpretation of the stats where most high level climber are under 5 foot 9. Taller climbers (over 6 foot) than to be outlier.
I do find that smaller climber then progress faster. For the same reason than X pounds of force they develop make them stronger pound for pound.
Emil Abrahamsson once said "I'm very good at being tall". I'm _only_ good at being tall, but very often it makes up for my lack of strength or technique
Lol, awesome chemistry on this collab Josh! But my favorite part was when you called Magnus, Maggy boo🤣
hahaha I'm sure he loves his new nickname
hey it's another tall climber!
I still think both have equal pros and cons but it's way more visible to cut the moves by 2 and everyone will notice it whereas no one will care/notice you need 30% more strength to get out of a small box, etc.
Go team tall! I hate the climbs that have a start where you have to generate tension by spanning and pushing with your arms but theres not even enough room to get my arms straight or compression cause the holds are relatively closer for taller people. Reach and big moves is the advantage of being tall and I find most gyms dont set with taller climbers in mind. They set so that taller climbers cant "cheat" problems but then set starting positions that are literally impossible for me to hold or move from.
I tagged along with a bunch of 1st time outdoor climbers and I felt bad for two tall guys in particular that couldnt climb half the crag because they were all lowball sit starts (there is no stand start because the boulder would just be 1 or 2 moves before topout lol). Were lucky gyms have enough variety for everyone, but nature is often not as generous.
Lol true, but outdoor does have more feet options for tall climbers to make use of.@@mikej243
Just come to Sweden, in almost every gym the setting is tailored towards tall climbers.
Is that boulder with the white stars that Josh set still up after over a year?
It’s not I think it got taken down a long time ago
I'm about 5"10 and I go climbing with my friend who is about 5"5. Despite me not being tall there are so many times where I can do a climb easily and he struggles purely based on my height advantage.
on bro
16:35 i love how Alex absolutely takes no shit from Josh. She's such a personality.
12:57 Alex has a really nice technique! 👍
.
She climbs really nicely
When are you going to collab with magnus..?
Hey Josh, I just watched your video and I must say that it was really informative and well-made.
I was wondering if I could help you edit your videos and repurpose your long videos into highly engaging shorts? I can also make high CTR thumbnails for your channel
I think it’s easier to be a tall beginner and intermediate climber but harder once you start breaking into the more advanced grades because you can’t just reach and grab and have to actually have technique
Seems to me that it all depends on how tall the person was who graded the climb. The more you differ from them (not just in height, but also in weight and ape index), the less accurate the grade will be for you personally. Comp setters know who's in the comp and set accordingly and try not to discriminate against anyone. Plus, the females don't compete against the males, who would on average be taller, so that favors average females (not the case in commercial gyms, of course).
I've heard a few times that height differences would matter less in the higher grades. Can someone explain why? Setters don't suddenly put the holds closer together. Of course tall people can't rely solely on their reach anymore, but they can learn technique and train strength. Shorties can't get taller.
Alex is a beauty
6:18 I always looked up to Alex... now she looks up to me!
I loved the banter with Alex haha
Haha was a fun video to make 😃
Being a tall climber is technically cheating 😂 what a good collab - I have seen Alex on Hannah’s channel before and i really enjoyed this video with the comparison of tall vs short :) thank you Josh, always love the vids 😊
Alex has her own channel, ROAP Coaching. There's some amazing advice there, her video on drop knees was one of the best technique videos I've seen
21:45 Is that a hold on the side of the board that's lit up? That's so cool.
I think it’s to show which of the plastic feet are allowed in the problem
Alex is funny, MORE ALEX
what was the glitch
some weird pixel ghost
I'd like to know if someone can build muscle with climbing. Many people say you cannot, they say you gain a los of strength but very little muscle. But the I see some people like Puccio and I think "well, she does have very good amount of muscle and she is a climber" so I wonder if she also lift wheights at the gym or she gain her muscles only with climbing??? 🤔
She is a professional climber, not your average climber who is usually on the slimmer build body type but depends on your body type. However if you want muscle just lift weights
6:17 I thought you were going to be like " I always looked up to alex but now i'm looking down at you"
Where is this gym? Interesting old school actual gym?
It’s the project climbing centre in Poole, it’s my local gym the setting is great!
I wish you guys had just projected the boulders rather than requiring a flash or a second try flash. I was more interested in seeing you solve the problems than in the competition to see who could climb it in the fewest tries.
Maybe next time we can do some projecting 😃
@@JoshRundle Awesome! Looking forward to it!
hahaha as a short climber, gonna have to side with alex here 🤭
haha I will forgive you just this once ;)
I wanna know what shoes she's wearing :D They look dope.
They are Scarpa limited edition shoes.
Why was the video uploaded yesterday and then again today? 🤔
It was because the previous one had a glitch so I had to take the old one down and re-upload it
@@JoshRundle then I'll say it again, Alex is not only super strong, but also really good at coaching! Awesome video, as always :)
@@matteobecchi1210 she is great! Thank you :)
Is this a reupload?
yep
cool
Protect Alex at all cost
She’s the best
The ape index makes your arms look short or hers long. Short is overpowered because you can always be more dynamic.
My wife and I have a foot difference and this was awesome to see Alex smash Josh
Did you see me do the slab first though 😉😂. Alex is amazing, so happy you liked the video!
When he says he looked up to her he defo means he fancied her
I like aggressive climbing 😭
The glitch is gone. 😭
haha were you. fan of the glitch?
It made the video more special. Don't discriminate against glitches. @@JoshRundle 😝
Alex remains most beautiful woman in climbing after all these years.
Alex is a fking monster...
awwww i was saying it correct and I'm American
"Come on"
this short vs tall climber stuff is nonsense.. 100% better to be taller.. there will be the occasional boulder that suits a smaller climber.. but the vast majority being taller is a huge advantage.
That is why the average height on the comp circuit is 5ft 8 for men. Very tall.
Magnus already sells his deodorant, it's called "Magdust".
Josh needed a crack problem to bust out his wideboyz training.
Josh trying to help solidify the meme that rock climbers are one big polycule
🗽 Funny, the coach has the most tape on his fingers... 😜
.
I hear this a lot as a taller climber, if I don’t fit then I need to be more flexible but if I can reach its “cheating”
Because you could train your flexibility? It's harder for us shorties to grow taller ;)
snail
🐌
Doesn't body weight make a huge difference? I'd like to see Alex climb with a 100lb weight vest.
I'm 4'11" and I go climbing with my 6'3" gf, and yeah, being tall really helps her. I'm a lot better of a climber than her, but she can almost climb the same climbs I can, just because she is so damn tall, and I am so damn short.
Same scenario here =p
Same here and it frustrates me.
Is this even a real question? The advantage always goes to the lighter climber, obviously.
V10 isn't really an "amature" climber. That's borderline between pro and the very top of advanced. Thats better than 99.9% of climbers. She on the other hand is like 0.01% elite.
People use height as an excuse more than it really does affect someone’s performance. If you can’t physically reach that’s 1 thing but outside of that I think it’s overhyped on its importance
Come climbing in Asia and you will see the downside of being a tall climber (above 6ft)😢
Bro if YOU an ameteur than I'm an ameba.
The same can be said for being short! There are equally the amount of tall people climbs that there are short people climbs!
Magnus Musk 🤣
Haha the one and only 😂
is it me or does she have some big ass hands for someone that's 5'3?
so v10 is amateur now? cmawn bruh
But Amateur just means I don’t get paid to climb 😃
Isn't this obvious the shorter people are just lighter? This is why there are no tall climbers in competitions.
adam ondra
adam ondra said being smaller is an advantage, so watching this is pointless for me, bye
Haha if you already knew Adam Ondra said it and agree with him then why did you click on it? 😂
Hope you liked it non the less though!
Bro, dont snail people. That makes me super mad
Everyone loves a good snail! 😂