Top 10 Challenging Perfumes on Persolaise Love At First Scent episode 373
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
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[Samples of Byredo, Malle, Piguet and Akro provided by the brands for review purposes; the rest were obtained by me. Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.]
Episode 373 of Love At First Scent
This was a CZcams Live broadcast streamed on Sunday 28th May 2023. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I presented my list of the Top 10 most 'challenging' perfumes: scents that may not be especially easy to wear, but which are fascinating, compelling and memorable, for various reasons.
Introduction 0:00
Etat Libre D'Orange Secretions Magnifiques (Antoine Lie) 5:28
Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan (Christopher Sheldrake) 10:51
Byredo Accord Oud 14:44
Zoologist Bat (Ellen Covey) 19:55
Ajmal Dahn Oud Al Shams 24:42
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour Le Soir (Francis Kurkdjian) 29:23
Mugler Womanity (Fabrice Pellegrin) 32:05
Parfum D'Empire Musc Tonkin (Marc-Antoine Corticchiato) 35:59
YSL Kouros (Pierre Bourdon) 40:40
Frederic Malle Monsieur (Bruno Jovanovic) 44:20
Piguet Oud (Aurelien Guichard) 48:06
Akro Night (Olivier Cresp) 53:20
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[* In November 2020, I was commissioned by Amouage to complete a writing project. The project may or may not have a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection (eg ‘best of’ posts and lists).]
Copyright 2023 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved. - Jak na to + styl
I tried Night a month ago and I instantly bought a full bottle, love it! Haven't tried Ajmal Dahn Oud Al Shams, but I have Ajmal Mukhallat al Shams and its amazing! When you born in Mexico you are exposed to spices in food from a very young age, I believe that's why I don't struggle with spicy or "challenging" scents, the world is full of scents some pleasant some not so pleasant, you cannot have one without the other, in this overly sensitive world that wants to sanitize and make everything pleasant, we're losing the fragrant experience of life as a whole. Thanks for the video Dariush!!!
Thanks for watching. And I’m so pleased you like The Night.
My favourite video of yours hands down. Thanks. I have half of these. Nothing like a good stinker!
Ah, I'm so pleased. Thanks very much.
This was such a great episode. Thank you. I find it interesting that Olivier Crisp (Night) also did the reformulation for Rochas Femme. Both run parallel with the cumin note clearly noticeable.
Yes, you’re right.
Thanks for watching.
Masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian evokes the intense atmosphere of a steelworks factory for me. Its scent is sharp, cold, and piercing, lingering in my memory in a way that’s unforgettable.
Wonderful comparison, thank you.
Great! Thank you for this video. Its funny, someone in the chat mentioned Francesca Bianchi Lovers Tale and it is one of my the most complimented perfumes. I absolutely love it, so beautiful composition!
Well, there you go!
A great list! And the live chat was fascinating; I loved seeing what fragrances others found challenging.
Me too, Sharon. Thanks for watching.
smelling my sample of accord oud looking for the challenging part.. all i smell is western oud, something clean and something fruity ♡ no one in the chat said anything about that one so i thought i would
Thanks very much indeed.
I used to wear Serge Noir to the office! 😂
GREAT topic Mr P!
Ha! That must have been a great-smelling office!
What type of reaction did you get?
Hello Persolaise 💜
I am a regular viewer of your episodes and thank you so much for doing them!
Please kindly consider doing a Top 10 niche immortelle based/centered perfumes, it will be much appreciated 🙏Greetings from Bulgaria ✨
Thanks for the wonderful idea.
🎉thanks!!!!🎉🎉 that was a very interesting theme!
Thank you.
I've long had several Akro creations on my radar but have yet to get my nose on any of them, & now you've made me even more curious about Night. As you began discussing the scent, at your first mention of cumin my thoughts instantly leapt to Al Oudh by L'Artisan which I so absolutely adore (had to go spray some on mid-typing at the though of it it is so criminal that they've discontinued it)... & then you mentioned Al Oudh & I thought, "Well, how perfect". Great list, exceptional content. New to your channel but you clearly have great taste; I knew yours was a nose I could trust, or at the very least respect, when you featured Aoud Cuir D'Arabie -a personal favorite of mine as well & also one that I'd imagine would fit this particular list - in another of your videos I recently viewed. You have a lovely personality & your passion & knowledge are readily evident - & now you have a new subscriber. Cheers!
What a wonderful comment - thank you. And thanks very much indeed for subscribing.
Some new fragrances to try! Thank you Perdolaise!
Thanks for watching.
I’m glad you included “Night” - I love it!! ❤️ Also, back in the day I don’t think Kouros was seen as challenging, just a really good scent along with Fahrenheit 👍🏻
Yes, I think you’re right.
Great video! I love your channel. Your laugh is infectious! 💘
Why, thank you. I’m blushing.
Good morning Persolaise. I have got you on the big telly this morning. On this wet and cold New Zealand morning. Haha. Thank you sir.
Oh dear -- not too big, I hope!
I predicted you’d include Monsieur. It’s my favorite perfume ever, because it captures my idea of an ideal scent: un air d’ambience: for example a studio office, a men’s wardrobe, a theatre dressing room… It is also the smell of darkness!
to me, the most challenging perfumes to wear are Naomi Goodsir’s Nuit de Bakelite, Corpus Equis, Ganymede (i find it too ugly sometimes) and in general, all middle eastern types of perfumes that have no french touch!
I know Monsieur has many, many fans. Thanks for watching.
Yes! I’ve always found that Bat smells exactly like a grotto filled with stewed beets.
Absolutely!
Haha nasty!
I never understood why Fahrenheit is challenging to some people.
These days not a lot of people wear it where I'm from. Back in the late 80s up to mid 90s it was the Sauvage of that era and that over-use and being associated with the "wrong" type of character led to its own demise. Sauvage will go the same way.
I started wearing it a lot again recently, both the pre-00s original formulation and a clone I found in the Philippines for 3 bucks that have that burnt gasoline note in full swing.
This is fascinating. It was never associated with any negativity where I grew up.
Thanks for watching.
Curiously…Encelade smells beautiful on my identical twin sister. Same with Alien! But, on me, they are both most… un…polite! Anywhoo…go figure 😊
Now, that is very interesting!
Many thanks for watching.
I've been thinking about those differences for a long time now and while I think it's gotta have something about "skin chemistry", I think what is likely the reason why it smells so different on other people has got to do with the fact that, from a far, when you smell the fragrance off someone, you get a different experience, specially most times you're even smelling the dry down. Ultimately you are smelling almost a different fragrance (albeit a very similar one) where the notes are more airy, more blended and infused with the base notes, thus giving a different impression versus when you have the bubble of the fragrance around you when you apply on yourself
How very interesting! It’s nice to see what the audience and commenters also see as challenging coz of the wild subjectivity in fragrances.
One of the most challenging for me, never thought I’d own a bottle, is Perris Monte Carlo’s Ambre Gris. It’s like bleach, bitterness, glaring reflections and the color grey in a bottle. 😅
Yes - I was hoping we’d end up having a really interesting chat about all this.
Great and very interesting list, merci Mr. P.! I have and love Olympic Orchids' Night Flyer a.k.a. Bat myself, especially love the tropical banana feel in that one, don't find it challenging, but my husband does :))))
If you need smaller amounts to sustain it in your collection, you could get it from an online shop in Spain that sells 5ml of every niche perfume they offer, that's where I got my 30ml full bottle from, which isn't too expensive either. Also I like Musc Tonkin a lot! And after seeing your facial expressions while smelling ELDO and MKK, I must really really try those too, I think :)
Thanks for the tip, and for watching.
Amouage Figment. Swings between challenging and beautiful many times during the wear.
I’ll have to dig out my sample and revisit it.
Hello persolaise. If I had to pick one challenging fragrance to me it would be Fahrenheit in any iteration. It’s awfully rubbery to my nose. Asphalt-like just absolutely not my cup of tea
Another one: Musc tonkin by Parfum d’empire. Absolutely revolting fragrance. Very runny excrement.
Deer musk accord from sultan pasha however, forgoes the notion of perfume and just gives you the experience of cruelty free “natural” deer musk. It’s not runny at all it is very solidly fecal, with an absolutely stomach churning dirtiness I cannot handle.
There's no need to put "natural" in quotation marks. Sultan Pasha uses genuine deer musk from a Russian government-approved supplier where supposedly no deer are killed for the musk. Meleg perfumes uses the same musk, although his perfume is quite soft and powdery and not at all challenging.
That sounds like a must-smell! Thanks for watching.
I am looking forward to this video!
Thank you.
This was such fun to watch. Especially your facial expressions trying Secretions Magnifiques. Hilarious. Honestly, I am so curious to smell this one, one main reason being that it was created by Antoine Lie. I really admire this perfumer. I am sure the dry-down, even with this overall challenging scent profile is to die for. Speaking of challenging scents: I feel challenged by Etat libre d'Oranges "Ghost in the shell". I find it so repulsive and while smelling it, get the association of the liquid of vaccumed chicken breast, layered with a citrusy synthetic molecule. Pure horror for me.
As for Serge Lutens' "Serge Noir" being challenging: This one was my husband's signature for many years and I still adore it.
Thanks for this. I know Ghost repelled quite a few people.
I remember Absolue Pour le Soir was heavily discounted here in Indonesia. That 70bottle was sold for around 100usd, cheap compared to other MFK fragrances. I bought one and as much as i love it, it is too hard to wear it here in hot humid climate, so I sold it. But I made 20 ml decant before I sold it, i am happy i still keep it.
Sadly, I don't think it sold well anywhere.
I think I am the person who suggested the concept of "challenging". Interesting that two of us had similar ideas at the same time. 🙂
Thanks very much for the suggestion.
There’s an avenue near me that is lined with large bushes that look lovely until a certain time of year when the hot sun makes their aroma very challenging indeed. I shall now rename it Rue de la Secretions Magnefic and imagine all sorts of things going on behind those stylish curtains…
Ha! Ignorance is bliss.
The most challenging one for me: onda by Vero Kern. Agree with secretions..MKK on the other hand is a soft cuddly kitten, after a short pungent start.
Ah, that’s interesting. I adore Onda.
My signature scent is patchouli 24 from le labo - to me, it’s the smell left in your hair after a bonfire, but a lot of people seem to get burnt leather or bbq pork from it. I don’t get that, but I think the sweetness from the vanilla and patchouli with the woodsmoke adds up to bbq. My mom hates it. Anyway, it smells great on me 🙃
That’s a wonderful description, thank you.
The most challenging fragrance for me is one of the most talked about…Baccarat Rouge. I own the original EDP bottle, and although I do not hate it, I am not a fan either.
Ah -- I actively dislike it.
I absoletuly adore it
That was a fun video
Thank you.
The most challenging perfume I owned was Dusita's Oudh Infiniti. I thought it was beautiful but I could not wear it, I kept a decant and re-homed the bottle.
Yes, that’s definitely a challenging one!
I have a sample of that one! I find it an interesting, oddly alluring scent, and I enjoy trying out my sample from time to time, but I can't wear it either. Shame it's been discontinued, though it's good that they did so instead of making a butchered version when they could no longer source the key material.
Just got a 30 ml bottle of Night Flyer. Sprayed very little on before bed as the moon was actually shining outside my window. It does smell very damp and gives off the vampiric vibe I hoped for 🦇 🦇
Can't stop smelling my arm.
I'm pleased you like it.
Thanks for watching.
Funny about Absolue Pour Le Soir, which I have a small decant of; I was gutted when I realized it was no longer available to buy, until my Husband, who has no interest in my perfume obsession whatsoever, told me I smelled like the cat box when I had it on. I still love it and can't even understand how he can smell this, but then he rarely if ever comments on anything I wear so I have to take it seriously :o). Thank you Persolaise. I always enjoy your videos. Julia
Ah… the issue of one’s significant other not appreciating a perfume choice.
Thanks for watching.
I got so many compliments in summer with Secretions magnifiques! I am almost at the end of my first bottle and I will buy a new one without hesitation :)
Well, there you go. I know there are plenty of people who love it.
😳😳Wow!!!I havent smelled it.
Guess I'm in the minority of those who love Byredo's Accord Oud. I prefer the blackberry/leather combo over the raspberry/leather.
Challenging for me:
Bvlgari Kobraa - relentless smoke with no relief in sight. I smelled like Geranium was found guilty of being a witch in an Olfactory version of Salem,MA.
Frederic Malle French Lover - galbanum overload. I can appreciate it in small doses. I love Iris Malikhan though.
Thanks for this list. There are quite a few people who can't stomach an overload of green notes.
Womanity is one of my favorite summer fragrances. It's so good. So unique. Not even a hint challenging in it in my opinion. I love it's s saltiness. But to my nose it doesn't go fishy.
That's good to know.
Right on point with Secretions Magnifiques, Bat and Kouros. Speaking of Womanity’s dead fish, I get the same note but way stronger in Strangelove NYC’s Silence The Sea.
I actually like Womanity and have wondered what the “leather” and “taste of fragrance” treatment would do to the original Womanity.
Thanks for a great video!
Thanks very much for watching. Now I need to dig out my Strangelove samples.
@@Persolaise looking forward to a review of Strangelove NYC. I love Melt My Heart and have been wanting to sample Fall Into Stars and Dead of Night.
Someone suggested Guerlain's Mahora as a challenging scent. I honestly wonder why. I know that it wasn't a commercial success. I stumbled upon a bottle in a junk shop and I find it a sexy summer scent.
I know lots of people who like it.
Thanks for watching.
Great content
Thank you.
Sadonaso should be here. Also, go and try Miguel Matos creations... 😅
Thank you!
I might be the only one, but certain perfumes remind me of songs.The stinky animalistic civet perfumes always reminds me of the band Brule's video "The warrior song" with a big cat. I have just watched it & had the urge to spray Jicky lol.
That's wonderful. Some perfumes remind me of certain pieces of music.
Hi, when I read the title I thought of Salome by Papillon. This one is only for strong souls 😂
Agreed 😉
I need to try Secretion Magnifiques and a lot of the others. I enjoy Musc Koublai Khan. Another perfume I love that can be challenging is Anteus: you need to be careful with that.
Please let me know what you think of SM.
Current version of Muscs Koublai Khan is not anywhere where it once was. Closer to Kiehls these days.
I suppose I’ll have to give it a sniff soon.
For me the worst or most daring perfume is definitely Le Labo’s Oud 27. It is gasoline with urine and a vomit note. It’s quite disgusting. I once smelled Secretions and Le Labo’s Oud was worse. I hate it with all my being 😅😅😅. But I LOVE MMK , I don’t smell anything animalic just a lovely musk, a bit muskier than Kiehls but that’s about it.
Ah, I should really re-visit the Le Labo.
Thanks for watching.
Accord Oud? My former coworker's signature scent, nothing challenging there. However, M-Mink is a different beast...
I love M/M Ink.
Many thanks for watching.
Replica fragrances are very challenging me. In fact, they are a complete no-no to me, blind bought about four and, each one smelled chemical and synthetic to my senses. had to give them all away. Won’t blind buy any more.
Ah yes, the dangers of blind buying.
Belle de Jour by Eris is also by Antoine Lie, and is doing a similar thing to Secretions Manifique in that it has a slight semen note with white flowers, but is more wearable in my opinion.
Oh, much more wearable, I’d say.
Secretions Magnifiques smells horrific on me, but I've smelled it on others and it's actually pretty nice on them, bur if you're a perfume lover, it's an absolute must-try. Akro's Night smells sooooo nasty...and I love it.
Ah, another Night fan. Good to know.
I’m a little surprised no one mentioned Sorcinelli or Amouage at all
I guess you never know what people are going to mention.
@@Persolaise Any way I can buy Le Snob? It seems to be out of print from everywhere I've looked. Any advice for me?
@@aarond9563 Thank you so much for asking, but yes, I'm afraid it is out of print. Sometimes, second-hand copies turn up at online retailers, like Amazon and Abe.
Would u recommend Musc Tonkin as a closely-resembling substitute for Absolue Pour le Soir? If so, I'll order a bottle!
Sadly, I’d say no. The honey is such a key feature of APLS, and it’s doesn’t really figure in MT.
@@Persolaise Yeah, APlS has a sweetness / warmth in the dry-down, from the benzoin and that rose-infused honey. So, I can strike through Musc Tonkin as a candidate for a substitute for APlS, but the quest continues!
My most challenging perfume (that I happen to have sold just today) is vintage Cabochard. It just smelled like wet cigarettes- I couldn't take it.
Ouch… wet cigarettes doesn’t sound good.
In my newby experience shams oud by memo the ginger oud balsamic almost varnish smell gets me
That does sound quite challenging.
There are different type of awful. Some make you angry. Some make you feel queasy. Some make you repulsed.
In the queasy department, I put Sail by Acqua di Portofino which in the start is quite a nice fragrance. Even beautiful smelling. Then something happens after a few hours of this on my skin and that salty sea note makes my stomach turn. It makes me feel physically sick. Almost like a form of torture.
Then there is the repulsive fragrances. I tried a very barnyardy synthetic oud oil and it was an instant scrubber and the scent of cow poop lasted on top of my hand for over a day no matter what trick I used that normally removes awful fragrances.
Then there are the loud, screechy and obnoxious, leather fragrances that make me angry. I want to headbutt a Russian gangster in the nose and kick a baby across a sidewalk.
That is quite an image! I hope you don’t encounter too many of the really unpleasant perfumes.
I love YSL Kouros.
Me too.
Thanks for watching.
Secretions Magnifiques smells like a crime scene!
I believe that comparison has been made before.
Thanks for watching.
My most challenging fragrance is Theo Fennell the Scent, 😳
Ah, yes - I’ve got that one too, and I agree it can be tough to pull off.
ANYTHING by Perfume de Marly and Baccarat Rouge would make this list for me; rancid doesn't always need a civet note! I find challenging perfumes as interesting as square wheels, not sure I see the point in them! LOL, but it is interesting watching you describing them. Thanks for another fascinating one, Dariush!
Thanks for this. I’m not a fan of BR either.
Well, it depends if you just want to smell nice to others, or you see perfumery as an art like any other that expresses the good, the bad and everything in between of the human experience. Some of us just like the art of olfaction. Cheers! 😊
My women favorites, Esentric MO1, YSL Pour hom(m) e, Mazzolari Lui, Dior pour homme, they smell vanilla not iris. Terre d'Hermes. Spice Bomb.
Thanks for watching.
Very nice choices I would have put tabac tabou instead of musc Tonkin both are very challenging but TaBac tabou is really Tabou 🤪 ,very good choice for KOUROS as I hated since super young I need to resmell it again but really 🤢 ..
ps : I can’t imagine the smell of the Lego at the end of the video enjoy poor kids noise 😂😂😂
*noses 👃👃👃
I know - I keep wondering when they’re going to ask to play with the Lego.
Thanks for watching.
Attacking the Sun Marquis de Sade from L'Etat Libre d'Orange. OMG!
Yes, that’s a weird one too.
I love that one, but yes, it is pretty weird.
Secretions Magnifiques smells like empty shellfish remnants and scummy marine algae and seafoam on a pier to me. I find it neither interesting nor enjoyable. I have three more of the others on your list, and they all at least seem interesting to me and with some facet of them that I find enjoyable. Great video!
Thanks very much. And I love that description.
Womanity was a love at first sniff for me. Loooove it.
It certainly struck a chord with many people.
Hyrax by zoologist. The anti- palate cleanser
I'll have to check it out.
Womanity hasn't been discontinued. It's still in production, but its distribution has been limited. Easily obtainable online.
Ah, well, that's news to me, thank you. Years ago, I was categorically told by the brand that it would be discontinued, but perhaps the folks at L'Oreal decided to keep it going.
@@Persolaise No problem! I can understand the confusion as I thought so too for many years, but it's still produced in France and potentially other European countries. I recently purchased a L'Oréal back-up bottle but I can't comment on any potential reformulation as it'll remain sealed until I finish my original Clarins bottle. I've heard good things, though. :)
not womanity x) i love that one
It works beautifully on some people.
On me, Jasmin et cigarette smells of... um, incontinence.
I have to ask… in a good way??!
@@Persolaise ha ha of course! I do, on occasion, feel a bit self-conscious wafting the jasmine indoles, but how can I resist the gorgeous osmanthus-hay dry down?
Adding that I've noticed that both JeC and Eau de Protection work best for me in warmer temperatures, which seem to burn off the savoury aspects.
1. Nobody does 'em like you do 'em. Not even la grande duchesse de CZcams Katie Puckrik.
2. For me the three most beguilingly execrable perfumes are Caron's L'Anarchiste (a precursor to ELDO's Secretions), the pre-reformulated Rouge d'Hermes', and The Different Company's Rose Poivré (JC Ellena's only foray into stinking, dense darkness). They stink so good.
3. Womanity was ahead of its time. Marty McFly brought it back from 2085 don't you know. I get a lot of dried, salted nuts from it. I call it Manity when I wear it (not the sea cow 🤭). What name would you have advised its marketers to use instead? As I believe it's Mugler's paean to Luten's Féminité, maybe they shoulda called it Féminité Du Noix? 😆
That’s a very kind thing to say, thank you.
As for an alternative name… gosh… I’d have to give it some thought. But it would have been great if they could have come up with another appropriate name starting with A. Some sort of link between Aerial and Aqua would have been interesting.
Some people are too sensitive.
Or not sensitive enough…?
Womanity is one of the weirdest perfumes I've ever smelled on my skin. There are tiny elements in the sillage that my mind really wants to appreciate; but that part of me that goes in for a close sniff....well let's just say that I'm not Eric from The Little Mermaid. 😂
Ha! Yes, it's certainly an oddity.
No more hmmm hmmm 😂😂😂 I can look at secretions magnifiques reactions in each of your videos for hours it’s delightful to see you shocked 🤡
Good to know 😂
Music for a while is....awful. I was going to call it 'filth' but it's too boring to be called that.
It certainly seems to be very divisive.
Thanks for watching.