I actually had a drip of trans fluid hit me in the glasses lens while doing this one. Glad I had them on. Hopefully the harbor freight plastic doesn’t give me cancer!
Thank Mopar Joe.. I have a 1973 Charger SE Triple Black Car with a 440. After the test drive last Sunday it was leaking from the rear main seal. I suspect the engine assembly dude put the seal in backwards.. In any event, I'm planning to fix it this Saturday and your video definitely help build my confidence and understanding of what I'm up for..
Call that one of those jobs you love to hate got it right the first time you're doing good your client can be happy that they chose the right man for the job very nice job
I really enjoy your videos , some bring back memories, like this one does , I remember doing this exact job on a vehicle for my grandfather with same engine losing on my back on a blanket in the middle of winter with snow an ice on the ground an freezing my fingers .. here in Ontario Canada.. but I got it done an made my grandpa happy ... 👍
Glad the top seal just peeled out...we have a GM motor here that uses actual rope as a seal...thats a bastard to get out as its not 2 piece...gotta soak it in oil and use a tool to refit it...Looks like BB Mopar got it right ...Cool vid Joe, thanks for sharing mate
The best windage tray/ gasket combo is a Summit or Jegs Molded Gasket Windage Tray. Summit's #SUM-G2340. It's a molded one piece unit. No more double gaskets . Piece of cake.
I didn't know you could change the rear main without pulling the tyranny. That steering box was a big job to replace. You are putting in a lot of hard work on that roadrunner. I hope your friends are compensating you for your time. Great job Joe.
Well done Joe. Stuff you have to remember hey...like having a phillips head screwdriver next to you, so you poke it up a pan hole to align the bolt holes right? Excellent job though & again well done. I have a weeping 440 rear main...so this has helped A LOT. Cheers.
Oooohhhh your going to do it like that ! Lol great video you made that look easy , after struggling the other day I was worried about that pan going back up !
Cool I'm going to get the billet retainer and try it on my old 383 it has the rope seal for sure I'll be off setting the seal and I'll loosen the main bolts to make it easier to remove the original rope seal....thanks for the video Joe!
@@JustMoparJoe yeah there susposed to be more accurately machined than the stock retainer as this has been a point of leakage on a lot of BBMs plus the off setting of the seal helps so the butt ends don't like up with the cap mating surface..and it's not a job I want to do twice.
Great video. I am on my fourth attempt to fix rear main in my 440. I just bought the same retainer cap from Mancini Racing. I am not trying to do this job the rest of my life either. LOL I will also check height of cap, is a very good tip and will try anything at this point. One more try before I pull the motor. Also for your other viewers I have tried two rubber seals and one Graphite rope. One of the rubber seals seamed to leak the least so far. Really hard to pull rope through. I have a "sneaky Pete" tool to pull it through but the one end you pull on frays and am thinking this may be where the failure is at this time. Before I decide on going rope, rubber or vitron I will subscribe and look for your next video, praying you are dry. Thank You!
@@JustMoparJoe was going to go to a wrecking yard and look for a 383 and tranny today but I was supposed to leave in like twenty minutes and then it started pouring here and according to the radar, no end in sight. The 73 year old owner thinks he might have a couple but he is not sure if they are worth working with. Oh well maybe next weekend.
Excellent! It’s a pain with the windage tray, from underneath. I had a guy recommend the windage tray from summit that has the gaskets made into it. Check that out.
You're supposed to rotate the seal on the block side so one side is in and the other is stuck out a little bit and then rotate it in the cap let it dry on the engine side first and then when you put the cap on the seal won't move that way when you put it in the seal is not split at the cap it's rotated inside the cap and the engine block and you'll get no leak so I'm going to say it's going to leak again if you just match it up flush the flush where the seal is cut the RTV will help but the proper way is to rotate the seal in the upper retainer so one side is sticking out on the other side is recessed into the block and do the same thing to the cap so that this whole seal is turned in the lower cap and the block when it goes in that way you have a solid seal on both sides where they meet up if you don't understand this go to engine Masters and watch freiburger install the rear main seal on a Chrysler big block or power Nation TV when they build the motors you have to rotate the seal otherwise they will leak
They always say, a man with an explanation is at the mercy of a man with experience. Here’s another video that may help, if you are having issues with your rear Main seal. Start at the 20 minute mark. czcams.com/video/5GwXCoee2Ro/video.html
Recently, I pulled the pan on my '85 318 because of timing gear plastic in the oil pump pick up....decided to change the rear seal.....rope....upper was not cooperating at all...until I lowered all main caps, removed converter bolts, loosed the bell housing, and pried back the Trans about 1/2".....then it came right out. 😡 Good time to check and change main bearings too...lol.
Yes sir. It’s a good seal. My brother used this same seal in his 540, after he had to change the one that muscle motors had installed in it when he purchased the engine.
Have you seen Summits new nylon windage tray that has gaskets built into it? It should be reusable and easily trimmed if it doesn't fit quite right depending on your pickup. They have a standard and one for a stroker crank, think they are $54 a piece. I think they are a modern replacement to the double gasket metal ones and Summit Racing definitely cares about Big Block Chryslers more than Jegs.
That is a job that sucks putting a rear main in while the motor is in the car done it several times you didn't cus as much as I did that was a good job
Slow and Steady….nothing Good happens Fast!!! Let it cure..1/4-20 studs with 1/4-20 Serrated Flange Hex Lock Nuts makes reassembling while laying on your back much easier….
The cap lost about .004. I only had orange, but it’s Never let me down. I actually like it abuse it blends with the orange paint. Granted this engine looks closer to Kubota or Chevrolet orange 🤔
offset the seal by 1/2" - 1" to help stop seal leak. Hope you and the family have a fun and safe 4th 🇺🇸🗽💥
Happy 4th brother!
Great channel Joe
Thank you Jeff! I have a new laptop coming in. Hopefully my editing tightens up some.
Been looking forward to this video. Going to do this job soon. Thanks
Thanks brother! Good luck! You can definitely do studs and make life easier.
@@JustMoparJoe Thank you for the tip! I'll keep that in mind.
When a socket falls off an extension it always seems to find my face to fall on. Law of mechanic physics
I actually had a drip of trans fluid hit me in the glasses lens while doing this one. Glad I had them on. Hopefully the harbor freight plastic doesn’t give me cancer!
Thank Mopar Joe.. I have a 1973 Charger SE Triple Black Car with a 440. After the test drive last Sunday it was leaking from the rear main seal. I suspect the engine assembly dude put the seal in backwards.. In any event, I'm planning to fix it this Saturday and your video definitely help build my confidence and understanding of what I'm up for..
Awesome! Be sure and check out part 1 too. If you can, get a Viton seal
Call that one of those jobs you love to hate got it right the first time you're doing good your client can be happy that they chose the right man for the job very nice job
Thank you Keith! Happy 4th!
What a pain, but you made it look easy! Just slick it up with some pookie and it will seal right up hahaha Great job joe!
😂😂 Duddies pookie for all!
I really enjoy your videos , some bring back memories, like this one does , I remember doing this exact job on a vehicle for my grandfather with same engine losing on my back on a blanket in the middle of winter with snow an ice on the ground an freezing my fingers .. here in Ontario Canada.. but I got it done an made my grandpa happy ... 👍
Thank you Darren!
Glad the top seal just peeled out...we have a GM motor here that uses actual rope as a seal...thats a bastard to get out as its not 2 piece...gotta soak it in oil and use a tool to refit it...Looks like BB Mopar got it right ...Cool vid Joe, thanks for sharing mate
Thanks brother! I’ve seen factory rope seals that weren’t leaking! I hear that the best way with aftermarket cranks or if the crank is align honed 🤔
The after market one you removed looks like one from Mancini Racing. I have one from Indy Cylinder Heads. Works great.
Thanks Terry. I will try them in the future.
The best windage tray/ gasket combo is a Summit or Jegs Molded Gasket Windage Tray. Summit's #SUM-G2340. It's a molded one piece unit. No more double gaskets . Piece of cake.
Mine leaks a drop every two days on my 512. I’m going back to old school
I didn't know you could change the rear main without pulling the tyranny. That steering box was a big job to replace. You are putting in a lot of hard work on that roadrunner. I hope your friends are compensating you for your time. Great job Joe.
Thanks, Don. They took great care of me! Thanks for watching.
In All big blocks u can
Great intuition Mopar Joe.
Thanks brother! Glad I caught it
Well done Joe. Stuff you have to remember hey...like having a phillips head screwdriver next to you, so you poke it up a pan hole to align the bolt holes right? Excellent job though & again well done. I have a weeping 440 rear main...so this has helped A LOT. Cheers.
Thanks for the support!
Oooohhhh your going to do it like that ! Lol great video you made that look easy , after struggling the other day I was worried about that pan going back up !
Thanks Mike! It was almost enjoyable 😂 Happy 4th!
Great job Joe, not to sure about that ACDELCO creeper LOL.
Yea what’s up with that!
😂 that was the free version! It’s definitely in its last wheel too!
Nice work sir!! Solid fix!!!!
Thanks brother! It was a solid pain! At least there was a cooler day to get it done.
Great to find you. Subscribed
Thank you! Please share with your Mopar friends. I even have a few off brand builds that I did a while back. Should be under the playlists.
Cool I'm going to get the billet retainer and try it on my old 383 it has the rope seal for sure I'll be off setting the seal and I'll loosen the main bolts to make it easier to remove the original rope seal....thanks for the video Joe!
Thanks brother! Is there a real advantage to the billet cap?
@@JustMoparJoe yeah there susposed to be more accurately machined than the stock retainer as this has been a point of leakage on a lot of BBMs plus the off setting of the seal helps so the butt ends don't like up with the cap mating surface..and it's not a job I want to do twice.
Good job 👍
Thanks Brother! Happy 4th!
Wait a day for start up always a good idea on the rear main seal. Great job!
Thanks brother!
There ain’t enough O’s in the word smooooth never goes that well for me Nice job 👍 Happy Independence Day Mr. Joe 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Mopar Mike!! Need a win every now and then 😂
Great video. I am on my fourth attempt to fix rear main in my 440. I just bought the same retainer cap from Mancini Racing. I am not trying to do this job the rest of my life either. LOL I will also check height of cap, is a very good tip and will try anything at this point. One more try before I pull the motor. Also for your other viewers I have tried two rubber seals and one Graphite rope. One of the rubber seals seamed to leak the least so far. Really hard to pull rope through. I have a "sneaky Pete" tool to pull it through but the one end you pull on frays and am thinking this may be where the failure is at this time. Before I decide on going rope, rubber or vitron I will subscribe and look for your next video, praying you are dry. Thank You!
Thanks brother! All good here. I’m behind on posting. Been trying to finish up some honey dos.
Good stuff to know Joe - thanks. BTW, my Doug's D452 headers have the same oil stain in the same place. It's not a bug, it's a feature.
Thanks for the info!
To us you are more than a just, You're Mopar Joe and the just is for Mopar only! God bless and happy Sunday to you.
Thanks John! Enjoying the day
@@JustMoparJoe was going to go to a wrecking yard and look for a 383 and tranny today but I was supposed to leave in like twenty minutes and then it started pouring here and according to the radar, no end in sight. The 73 year old owner thinks he might have a couple but he is not sure if they are worth working with. Oh well maybe next weekend.
Good luck! We caught rain all night long here. Now it’s a cool 80 degrees and low humidity.
@@JustMoparJoe down there that is a welcome day to enjoy.!!!
It sucks putting them in wen motor in car but I like the way you do that seal on your builds that worked out pretty well good job
Thanks Jeff!
@@JustMoparJoe I’m learning a lot of stuff from you your videos are thorough
Next time to make life easier. Use two long studs to help line up cap and it will slide in place easier.
Awesome idea! Happy 4th to you and yours!
Call it a win ?!!! Beep Beep
Beep beep! How’s your big block car doing?
@@JustMoparJoe It's on the list.... Haven't touched it since that last video I've done on it several months ago, but it's on the list :)
Cool video!! I got to do the same thing on my 68 Plymouth Satellite 383 sometime soon . Your video is going to be a big help.
Excellent! It’s a pain with the windage tray, from underneath. I had a guy recommend the windage tray from summit that has the gaskets made into it. Check that out.
@@JustMoparJoe Cool thanks for the info. I'll check it out.
Good job Joe!
Thank you!
You're supposed to rotate the seal on the block side so one side is in and the other is stuck out a little bit and then rotate it in the cap let it dry on the engine side first and then when you put the cap on the seal won't move that way when you put it in the seal is not split at the cap it's rotated inside the cap and the engine block and you'll get no leak so I'm going to say it's going to leak again if you just match it up flush the flush where the seal is cut the RTV will help but the proper way is to rotate the seal in the upper retainer so one side is sticking out on the other side is recessed into the block and do the same thing to the cap so that this whole seal is turned in the lower cap and the block when it goes in that way you have a solid seal on both sides where they meet up if you don't understand this go to engine Masters and watch freiburger install the rear main seal on a Chrysler big block or power Nation TV when they build the motors you have to rotate the seal otherwise they will leak
They always say, a man with an explanation is at the mercy of a man with experience. Here’s another video that may help, if you are having issues with your rear Main seal. Start at the 20 minute mark. czcams.com/video/5GwXCoee2Ro/video.html
Recently, I pulled the pan on my '85 318 because of timing gear plastic in the oil pump pick up....decided to change the rear seal.....rope....upper was not cooperating at all...until I lowered all main caps, removed converter bolts, loosed the bell housing, and pried back the Trans about 1/2".....then it came right out. 😡
Good time to check and change main bearings too...lol.
That’s a pain brother!
@@JustMoparJoe , loosened...this dang phone!
Use the fel-pro 2947 performance seal with the aftermarket retainer
Thank you for that video. I have to change mine. Did it hold?
Yes sir. It’s a good seal. My brother used this same seal in his 540, after he had to change the one that muscle motors had installed in it when he purchased the engine.
Have you seen Summits new nylon windage tray that has gaskets built into it? It should be reusable and easily trimmed if it doesn't fit quite right depending on your pickup. They have a standard and one for a stroker crank, think they are $54 a piece. I think they are a modern replacement to the double gasket metal ones and Summit Racing definitely cares about Big Block Chryslers more than Jegs.
I have heard of them. The Road runner was a customer car. I was trying to save them some money by reusing their new one.
That is a job that sucks putting a rear main in while the motor is in the car done it several times you didn't cus as much as I did that was a good job
thanks, Ray! it doesn't get easier, just more familiar.
Slow and Steady….nothing Good happens Fast!!! Let it cure..1/4-20 studs with 1/4-20 Serrated Flange Hex Lock Nuts makes reassembling while laying on your back much easier….
I had to throw in that studs comment! Lol
Congratulations on the grand baby! That kid is in good hands!
Thank You my Brother!!
👍💪
Thanks brother! Happy 4th!
@@JustMoparJoe Merica!! Most of it's gone to hell in and hand-basket but there are a few of us left. 😆
What is this red grease called???
I think it’s just high temp grease
So the million dollar question? Did it work?
Rob in Blanchard Oklahoma
Stay tuned until next time! Same station and same time! 😉
How much did you sand off the cap? Which color Permatex is best? I usually use black, are they rated for heat or how solid they dry?
The cap lost about .004. I only had orange, but it’s Never let me down. I actually like it abuse it blends with the orange paint. Granted this engine looks closer to Kubota or Chevrolet orange 🤔
That is a mancini racing retainer
Good lord who designed that rear main seal?
The Mopar engineers in the 50’s I’d bet.
What did you do to stop oil dripping on you constantly while you were doing that job?
I drained the pan awhile before. Once pulling the pan, I wiped most of it. It wasn’t too bad.
I bet it’s still leaking 🤣 Never got a follow up video.
I did a full series. It’s the Playlist titled 72 Roadrunner. It’s fixed. There’s like 10 follow ups videos.
@@JustMoparJoe ok I apologize. That’s why I couldn’t find it, I was looking for the follow up title.
hey joe....do you have an email so i can ask you a question?
Email is Justmoparjoe@gmail.com . I’ll do my best to answer