A step by step guide to mod your Behringer UV300 Ultra Vibrato to have lower rate settings than stock. JHS video about Behringer pedals: • What's the Deal With B...
I'm just getting into learning abt modding, is this something that you need to order a different capacitor to do? Can you make that a switchable mode fairly simply?
Great suggestion. I have this pedal. The vibrato is weak in the mix on mine. Until I watched this vid I had the Rise knob all the way to the right. Thinking it was like a depth knob. These are cheap enough to risk modding and maybe rehousing while you're at it.
I did it! Thanks for the instructions. First-ever pedal mod. I have a minimum of electronics and soldering skills and your video made this dead easy. Quite frankly the hardest part was the switch placement. I opted to move it a bit to the left so that it would be under the "mode" slider switch and it was a bit tight--had to monkey around with the drill to make the hole a bit larger but eventually got it in and it still looks good. Bought the pedal for $20 on sale at Sweetwater plus about $10 for the capacitors and switches. Sounds 100% better. (Plus enough capacitors and switches to make 9 more.
The slow rate sounded so much better to me so last weekend I did the mod (without the switch) Found it a bit fiddly and had to use a magnifier and a cuppa coffee but it went well and the pedal sounds great now. Thanks so much for the video!
I had just started looking for vibrato pedals with a slower rate than the UV300. Found your upload, and now I don't need to buy a new pedal. THANK YOU!!
Thanks a lot. I was going to buy this pedal until I saw your review. Now without your incredible mod I don't want those pedal I want that super slow mod. Awesome awesome job though.
I had speculated it might be possible to change the oscillator range by adding some capacitors, but I hadn't put in the work to actually find the right ones on a schematic so thanks for doing the legwork!
Just wanna say thank-you, I just did this just 5 mins ago following your instructions, and it worked great without any issues despite my crappy soldering. Now I can have Boards of Canada synths to back my guitar! :D
@@zachary1688 Any online components supplier: Mouser for example, but there are plenty of others to choose-from. These are specifically "surface mount" capacitors which are indeed tiny but also fiddley to solder by-hand.
I like the outcome! Definitely thinking about getting one of these and doing this mod. Gonna use it with synths to give them that "Boards of Canada" 'warped' sound while keeping the LFO available for patching to other things. :D
@@skipper6528 Not typically; I normally just play to occupy myself- but I do know what sounds I like to make, lol. :P I do have some tracks on 'backlog' on an old harddrive but I haven't had the nerve to release them.
I have done this (except I have a different vibrato). I recommend if at all possible panning the left and right signals, have the left signal more bassy and low mids, and the right signal more middle and high mids but limited to about 6.5k. Then, add some soft parallel overdrive to the left channel only (last in the chain) Voila, you have tape saturation on a live synth.
I believe I misspoke when I used the word range. But you just need an SPDT switch that has the 1uF in parallel with caps 12 and 15 on the pedal. The two contact points are the bottom side of C15 and the top side of C12.
Hi and thx a lot for this step by step tutorial, super useful !!! Something I don’t understand. Are you replacing the old capacitors or are they still in place?
If your vibrato depth is flatlining with this mod, I was able to fix it by getting a different type of ceramic capacitor (same value). Additionally, you can place a resistor in parallel with R5 (between 150k - 200k ohms works) to get a lot more sensitivity out of the depth pedal. I highly recommend this resistor mod. You can solder the resister to be always on (no switch) because all original depths are still possible on the dial, there is just a greater top range.
after doing the mod i feltlike the depth control had to be up all the way before hearing it.. i added the resistor as you suggested above (R5 , 200K) and now i DEFINITELY know when this thing is engaged. thanks!! super fun pedal and i was afraid of frying it but for $25 shipped it was worth the experiment
@@ryanborba6078 Thank you for the feedback! Now that you have more depth you can actually afford to put even more capacitance on C12 and C15 to go ULTRA slow while maintaining deep, smooth oscillations. You can make it as slow as a vinyl which will give you wonderful warped vinyl lofi sounds (which are everywhere in music right now). I went to 200nF on each capacitor. Of course this still leaves all the faster options available with the dial.
@@jackodonnell3463 that's good to know! i'm not sure i need or want to go slower, and every time i solder onto the SMD i risk messing it up -- not quite as easy as the bigger hole-through boards. my question is about the RISE knob -- i believe i could hear the effect before but right now i'm not really noticing it having an effect at all after the mod. i dont think it's a deal-breaker because it's more important to have the SLOWer rate, and i prefer it to sound dry/not like chorus anyway, but curious if you have any input there. part of the fun of modding a $25 pedal!
@@ryanborba6078 Hm, my rise knob functions perfectly... Keep in mind the rise is only for "unlatch" mode, and only effects the time it takes for full depth to take effect while you hold the pedal switch down.
If I want to have it permanent do I need to put capacitors in the line ore is it enough to bridge them with just a cable. Thanks a lot for that great video!!!
Unfortunately that's not simple at all. You either drill an enclosure so precisely you could keep most of the knobs and switches (almost impossible and a little screwup means an enclosure for the garbage) or you replace them with other ones but that means desoldering a lot of ultra tiny components from a tiny PCB, very difficult, time consuming and prone to failure. Don't get me wrong, it can be done but it's a pain in the ass :/ Let alone making it true bypass, Behringer pedals use Jfets for controlling the on/off function, one would have to alter the schematic to make it compatible with a true bypass switch, and where that altering takes place is different on every pedal/circuit.
Could be an interesting business plan. Disassemble the different pedals to get to the shell and foot switch, 3D scan them and then 3D print metal versions. Make hella, sell hella, use the cash to upgrade to machining them instead of 3D printing for faster turnaround.
Hi! C12 and C15 are connected. You only need one cap. Put it in parallel by connecting with an SPDT so that you are soldered to the bottom of C15 and the top of C12. I use anywhere from .1uF to 1uF.
I am reading continuity between the bottom of C15 and the top of C12. Looking at the diagram, placing a capacitor there seems to be equivalent to putting the capacitor in parallel with C15 only. I tested the audio of both configurations and they were identical in rate, depth, LFO waveform, etc.
Would 50nf caps make the effects half as pronounced? I'm trying to find an ideal value for an always-on mod (that skips drilling, and switch soldering)
Question. Can you use a DPST switch? DPDT switches are ON-OFF-ON, where DPST switches are just ON-OFF. From the schematic it looks like the second “ON” of the switch isn’t being used. Great video! THANKS!
Yes, a DPST should work fine given that the "fast" position is just stock. You're not quite right about DPDT switches though, they can be ON-ON or ON-OFF-ON, but either way it's a bit of a waste. A DPST switch might have a smaller body which would make fitting it in the casing easier.
You need a soldering iron , solder, if it’s your first time soldering I’d get some desolder wick just incase, some wire, 2 100mf capacitors, 2 way dpt switch, screw driver and drill bit for the switch.
but what if your guitar had floyd rose, would you still make this mod? and one more: can we just wide the range down to slow limit without losing fast limit, but changing one capacitor or resistor?
Out of curiosity, do you ask to use the clips of other youtubers even if they are super short and show the creator in a positive way? What's the etiquette for those situations like with the Josh Scott clip for example?
Hi. Thank you for your wonderful video. I am gonna mod mine as well. But what kind of capacitors are you using exactly? Do you maybe have a link to musikding, like you do for the switch? Thanks again!
Theoretically any 100nf (0,1µf) capacitor will do but the smaller the better because it all needs to fit ofc. While not in stock now it seems, this is what I'dd recommend: www.musikding.de/Ceramic-Disc-01-uF
I thought this was a good idea, thanks, I really appreciate your efforts. I personally found that for my taste, as it is, the after mod depth control was almost ineffectual, and the fastest rate was too slow for an organ effect along with what is for me a too slow and subtle slowest setting, so rather than faff around drilling holes and adding wires etc. I just wired one of the caps across c15 and got a fully usable range and depth control. Even simpler and quicker, as no switch needed (unless you like ultra-fast vibe).
Hi, really interesting. So are you saying that putting only a 100nf cap on c15, you have a more usable range? What do you mean exactly, how slow is the slowest setting and how fast is the fastest, comparing it with to the 'double cap' mode? Thanks
@@frankthepriest1220 Hi Frank, I wasn't thinking it out too well, just being lazy really. The slow range on the 2 cap switch mod was way too subtle for my taste and the fast speed was beyond what I would be able to use, the one cap whilst not quite as slow was less subtle, more noticeable, the fast range was maybe not quite fast enough, I recommend using a switched mod if you like really fast vibe, which can be handy for organ emulations. I didn't try modding just the other cap to see what that did. I ended up selling it, I found uni-vibe was more to my taste.
Hey, thanks! A question for all: I just did the mod, and it works! BUT! After a few seconds on the slower setting, the pitch wobble depth decreases over about 10 seconds to nothing. The vibrato disappears. If I jiggle the rate knob, it comes back. And ideas what the problem could be?!
What do you mean by deep? If it isn't slow enough then the capacitor values are off. If it messes with the "depth" knob, something went wrong when modding it... The mod shouldn't have any influence on the depth as far as I know.
Theoretically, you'd have to remove the existing capacitors and install a lower value than the original, it's possible, but a little harder, and i'm not sure how fast it could go.
So how many Behringer pedals have you broken? How many people do you know that have broken more than one? Why does everybody just repeat what they've heard and read...that "they aren't made to last" ? When they likely have zero experience with multiple Behringer pedals breaking(or even a single pedal) to say they aren't made to last. I have one from 2006 that's still working fine. If they were as crappy as you all make them out to be, it shouldn't have last more than a year or 2 🤷 That's the one thing I've noticed more than anything. Guitar players will repeat something as fact just because they hear it enough times and without having any personal experience or any facts to back up their claims. And no, I didn't have 10 pedals and they all broke except this one. This is the only one and it's been working fine since 2006. The original owner gave it to me last January when I started learning to play. He used it for 13 years until I got it.
@@guitargas1894 I should be able to figure it out by following the diagram, I just can't relate the diagram to the images when I pause the video, doing it today so we'll soon find out, thanks!
for anyone that wants to quickly swap between the sloooowwwwwweeeessssttttt settings...
2:48 pedal off
1:38 slowest normal
3:13 slowest w/ mod
Another fun mod is to have your capacitors slightly mismatched, this makes the LFO cycle uneven and sounds a bit like a garbled cassette.
I'm just getting into learning abt modding, is this something that you need to order a different capacitor to do? Can you make that a switchable mode fairly simply?
Great suggestion. I have this pedal. The vibrato is weak in the mix on mine. Until I watched this vid I had the Rise knob all the way to the right. Thinking it was like a depth knob. These are cheap enough to risk modding and maybe rehousing while you're at it.
I did it! Thanks for the instructions. First-ever pedal mod. I have a minimum of electronics and soldering skills and your video made this dead easy. Quite frankly the hardest part was the switch placement. I opted to move it a bit to the left so that it would be under the "mode" slider switch and it was a bit tight--had to monkey around with the drill to make the hole a bit larger but eventually got it in and it still looks good. Bought the pedal for $20 on sale at Sweetwater plus about $10 for the capacitors and switches. Sounds 100% better. (Plus enough capacitors and switches to make 9 more.
The slow rate sounded so much better to me so last weekend I did the mod (without the switch)
Found it a bit fiddly and had to use a magnifier and a cuppa coffee but it went well and the pedal sounds great now.
Thanks so much for the video!
I had just started looking for vibrato pedals with a slower rate than the UV300. Found your upload, and now I don't need to buy a new pedal. THANK YOU!!
hey man, just wanted to thank you for this. my vibrato sounds way better now!
I tried it with beer. Still works great.
Thanks alot for the video!!
duuude, this is exactly what i was looking for ,thank you!!!! super helpful
Just got this pedal today, going to do this mod. Thank you so much !!
I would buy this pedal right now if behringer had them all with your mod. Sounds fantastic
I've been meaning to do this mod for a while. Thanks for making the video, it's really helpful!
You're welcome!
Thanks a lot. I was going to buy this pedal until I saw your review. Now without your incredible mod I don't want those pedal I want that super slow mod. Awesome awesome job though.
Nice vid bro! Just got one of these, can't wait to mod it
Dude, you are best! Thanks for the information. There are many overpriced vibrato/lo-fi pedals, but Behringer with your mod is the best!
This mod is so incredibly useful.
Very good instructions, very clear. Excellent diagrams.
Just ordered one… Gonna give this a try
Big improvement, thanks so much for the video!
Amazing work all round!
I had speculated it might be possible to change the oscillator range by adding some capacitors, but I hadn't put in the work to actually find the right ones on a schematic so thanks for doing the legwork!
fantastic video. thank you for posting.
Thanks so much! It's sounds amazing now
Liked and subscribed! Informative and helpful, thank you. 🎸
Just wanna say thank-you, I just did this just 5 mins ago following your instructions, and it worked great without any issues despite my crappy soldering. Now I can have Boards of Canada synths to back my guitar! :D
Nice, glad it all worked!
@@guitargas1894 Hey what kind of wire would you use for this?
also where did you get your capacitors from? they are tiny!
@@zachary1688 wire is 0,25mm2 or 23 AWG. I'm from Europe and order almost all of my stuff at musikding.de
@@zachary1688 Any online components supplier: Mouser for example, but there are plenty of others to choose-from. These are specifically "surface mount" capacitors which are indeed tiny but also fiddley to solder by-hand.
I like the outcome! Definitely thinking about getting one of these and doing this mod. Gonna use it with synths to give them that "Boards of Canada" 'warped' sound while keeping the LFO available for patching to other things. :D
Do you record music?
@@skipper6528
Not typically; I normally just play to occupy myself- but I do know what sounds I like to make, lol. :P I do have some tracks on 'backlog' on an old harddrive but I haven't had the nerve to release them.
@@jackpijjin4088 cool ya im in the same ship Send me 25 seconds of noise maybe the tidal turrn
I have done this (except I have a different vibrato). I recommend if at all possible panning the left and right signals, have the left signal more bassy and low mids, and the right signal more middle and high mids but limited to about 6.5k. Then, add some soft parallel overdrive to the left channel only (last in the chain)
Voila, you have tape saturation on a live synth.
Yo yo yo Bo! This is brilliant!
Thanks Andy, simple but effective mod :)
I did it today, great video
thank you! was stoked to fuck around with that MBV de-tuned sound with the unlatch mode, but the rate is too fast
Thank you !!! it works great. Verified.
damn that sounds good, thx for viddy
This sounds way better and I love the way it can revert back to stock settings. How big a switch did you buy. Is there a product number? Thanks.
Great vid
Thanks man!
I believe I misspoke when I used the word range. But you just need an SPDT switch that has the 1uF in parallel with caps 12 and 15 on the pedal. The two contact points are the bottom side of C15 and the top side of C12.
Think I'm gonna do it
Just bought one with the mod :))) can't wait !!!
Cool. Can I ask what you paid for it, just curious :)
@@guitargas1894 $70! Free shipping tooo
Seth Torregrossa any link?
@@guitargas1894 would you mind and sell to me?
Hi and thx a lot for this step by step tutorial, super useful !!! Something I don’t understand. Are you replacing the old capacitors or are they still in place?
If your vibrato depth is flatlining with this mod, I was able to fix it by getting a different type of ceramic capacitor (same value). Additionally, you can place a resistor in parallel with R5 (between 150k - 200k ohms works) to get a lot more sensitivity out of the depth pedal. I highly recommend this resistor mod. You can solder the resister to be always on (no switch) because all original depths are still possible on the dial, there is just a greater top range.
after doing the mod i feltlike the depth control had to be up all the way before hearing it.. i added the resistor as you suggested above (R5 , 200K) and now i DEFINITELY know when this thing is engaged. thanks!! super fun pedal and i was afraid of frying it but for $25 shipped it was worth the experiment
@@ryanborba6078 Thank you for the feedback! Now that you have more depth you can actually afford to put even more capacitance on C12 and C15 to go ULTRA slow while maintaining deep, smooth oscillations. You can make it as slow as a vinyl which will give you wonderful warped vinyl lofi sounds (which are everywhere in music right now). I went to 200nF on each capacitor. Of course this still leaves all the faster options available with the dial.
@@jackodonnell3463 that's good to know! i'm not sure i need or want to go slower, and every time i solder onto the SMD i risk messing it up -- not quite as easy as the bigger hole-through boards. my question is about the RISE knob -- i believe i could hear the effect before but right now i'm not really noticing it having an effect at all after the mod. i dont think it's a deal-breaker because it's more important to have the SLOWer rate, and i prefer it to sound dry/not like chorus anyway, but curious if you have any input there. part of the fun of modding a $25 pedal!
@@ryanborba6078 Hm, my rise knob functions perfectly... Keep in mind the rise is only for "unlatch" mode, and only effects the time it takes for full depth to take effect while you hold the pedal switch down.
@@jackodonnell3463 i guess mine is working normally too! i just didnt realize it was only part of the unlatch mode. thanks!
If I want to have it permanent do I need to put capacitors in the line ore is it enough to bridge them with just a cable. Thanks a lot for that great video!!!
Pretty sure the whisky voids the warrantee
You have to be oh so careful doing this mod. I have done a lot of these for customers. Managed to mess up twice :)
buenisimo
Nice
this video has too few views
Haha thanks!
Exactly what I came to say.
one more
Someone should make a video on how to transfer Behringer pedals to a metal enclosure. A million views, I’ll bet.
Unfortunately that's not simple at all. You either drill an enclosure so precisely you could keep most of the knobs and switches (almost impossible and a little screwup means an enclosure for the garbage) or you replace them with other ones but that means desoldering a lot of ultra tiny components from a tiny PCB, very difficult, time consuming and prone to failure.
Don't get me wrong, it can be done but it's a pain in the ass :/
Let alone making it true bypass, Behringer pedals use Jfets for controlling the on/off function, one would have to alter the schematic to make it compatible with a true bypass switch, and where that altering takes place is different on every pedal/circuit.
Could be an interesting business plan. Disassemble the different pedals to get to the shell and foot switch, 3D scan them and then 3D print metal versions.
Make hella, sell hella, use the cash to upgrade to machining them instead of 3D printing for faster turnaround.
Isn't it the tc electronic smorgasbord line just behringer pedal on a metal enclouser?
I've actually not ever seen a broken one. They last long, even when abused.
Are the wires a specific type of wire? Would i be able to find them at my local hardware store you think?
Hi! C12 and C15 are connected. You only need one cap. Put it in parallel by connecting with an SPDT so that you are soldered to the bottom of C15 and the top of C12. I use anywhere from .1uF to 1uF.
Can you dumb it down for me please? I've little experience & knowledge. Cheers
Would a .05uf soldered to the top of c12 and bottom of c15 make the mod HALF as pronounced?
@@tomvice There would probably be not much noticeable difference.
I am reading continuity between the bottom of C15 and the top of C12. Looking at the diagram, placing a capacitor there seems to be equivalent to putting the capacitor in parallel with C15 only. I tested the audio of both configurations and they were identical in rate, depth, LFO waveform, etc.
Bassists: DIY a blend pedal, put this mod'd vibrato in the loop and you've got bass chorus
Would 50nf caps make the effects half as pronounced? I'm trying to find an ideal value for an always-on mod (that skips drilling, and switch soldering)
This is a great question, I was wondering the same thing
Question. Can you use a DPST switch? DPDT switches are ON-OFF-ON, where DPST switches are just ON-OFF. From the schematic it looks like the second “ON” of the switch isn’t being used.
Great video! THANKS!
Yes, a DPST should work fine given that the "fast" position is just stock.
You're not quite right about DPDT switches though, they can be ON-ON or ON-OFF-ON, but either way it's a bit of a waste. A DPST switch might have a smaller body which would make fitting it in the casing easier.
Thanks for the tutorial! What size drill bit are you using for the switch?
Not sure anymore, just use the size necessary for the shaft of the switch
First! I'm so cool!
Is there a way to get a slow uneven rate by slightly mismatching the caps? I'm looking for a warped vinyl-like vibrato
Great tutorial man. It would be great if you could provide some links to all of the tools you use to do the mod.
You need a soldering iron , solder, if it’s your first time soldering I’d get some desolder wick just incase, some wire, 2 100mf capacitors, 2 way dpt switch, screw driver and drill bit for the switch.
Is there a similar mod for the depth control? I imagine it would be done with another capacitor?
but what if your guitar had floyd rose, would you still make this mod? and one more: can we just wide the range down to slow limit without losing fast limit, but changing one capacitor or resistor?
I'd totally f this up if I did it. Are there any cheap pedals that go this slow as standard? I much prefer the sound.
Hello, Would this be possible on the behringer ultra tremolo pedal? the rate speed at its slowest setting is also too fast to me.
thank you
Oh man! Do I hear Callisto? One of my favorite bands!
Yes you absolutely do !
I've been skipping around this video as I make this mod. I think I've heard how cool alcohol is about 50 times today.
Haha, I hope you didn't have 50 whisky's 🙃
If I just jump circuit the caps it will leave the mod on?
I wouldnt recommed trying this without decent soldering skills
If u wanted to mod it faster switch what would u do
Out of curiosity, do you ask to use the clips of other youtubers even if they are super short and show the creator in a positive way? What's the etiquette for those situations like with the Josh Scott clip for example?
Tbh, I'm not completely sure, I just convinced myself that Josh is a cool dude and won't report my video (if he ever sees it)
Hi. Thank you for your wonderful video. I am gonna mod mine as well. But what kind of capacitors are you using exactly? Do you maybe have a link to musikding, like you do for the switch? Thanks again!
Theoretically any 100nf (0,1µf) capacitor will do but the smaller the better because it all needs to fit ofc.
While not in stock now it seems, this is what I'dd recommend: www.musikding.de/Ceramic-Disc-01-uF
@@guitargas1894 Thank you so much. I have all parts ready for assembly!
@@til2003 Cool, good luck !
I thought this was a good idea, thanks, I really appreciate your efforts. I personally found that for my taste, as it is, the after mod depth control was almost ineffectual, and the fastest rate was too slow for an organ effect along with what is for me a too slow and subtle slowest setting, so rather than faff around drilling holes and adding wires etc. I just wired one of the caps across c15 and got a fully usable range and depth control. Even simpler and quicker, as no switch needed (unless you like ultra-fast vibe).
Hi, really interesting. So are you saying that putting only a 100nf cap on c15, you have a more usable range? What do you mean exactly, how slow is the slowest setting and how fast is the fastest, comparing it with to the 'double cap' mode?
Thanks
@@frankthepriest1220 Hi Frank, I wasn't thinking it out too well, just being lazy really. The slow range on the 2 cap switch mod was way too subtle for my taste and the fast speed was beyond what I would be able to use, the one cap whilst not quite as slow was less subtle, more noticeable, the fast range was maybe not quite fast enough, I recommend using a switched mod if you like really fast vibe, which can be handy for organ emulations. I didn't try modding just the other cap to see what that did. I ended up selling it, I found uni-vibe was more to my taste.
I want to make sure I get the right kind of switch. Do you have a link to the one you bought?
This should do it !
www.musikding.de/Toggleswitch-DPDT
What did he do in the 2nd of the videos. What did he repair?
damn. too much hassle😅. any pedal recommendations with slow rates for vinyl type effect?
did ya find a schematic online for this pedal?
you can also just do a 330nf in parallel with c15
Hey, thanks! A question for all: I just did the mod, and it works! BUT! After a few seconds on the slower setting, the pitch wobble depth decreases over about 10 seconds to nothing. The vibrato disappears. If I jiggle the rate knob, it comes back. And ideas what the problem could be?!
hmm no, I'd check all solder joints but besides that, no idea tbh
I'm having the same issue -- did you ever find a solution?
behringer or kokko vibrato
please someone recommend me!!
Thank you! Does it suck tone or volume?
No none at all :)
A 1uF cap will allow you to slow it completely down without changing the range.
would you need to solder it to the same places? and would you need a switch still
Bought a modded one on reverb and the modulation isn’t near as deep as yours... any ideas why that would be?
What do you mean by deep? If it isn't slow enough then the capacitor values are off. If it messes with the "depth" knob, something went wrong when modding it... The mod shouldn't have any influence on the depth as far as I know.
Is there any to make this faster as well?
Theoretically, you'd have to remove the existing capacitors and install a lower value than the original, it's possible, but a little harder, and i'm not sure how fast it could go.
I’m 16 can I still get whiskey? Is it that important?
Haha, you can do without !
Even if you wanted you couldn't handle it.
I didn't start to like it until i was 30 or so.
@@Soldano999 ?
Does this mod work for the VB-2W? I know this is a "clone" but I don't know if that means the circuits are literally identical.
It's identical to the original, not entirely sure about the waza one.
So, for non-switchable mod do I have to put a 100nf cap on c12 and another 100nf on c15?
Correct !
@@guitargas1894 thanks!
4:22 what's this for again?!
Adding a switch and all the wire is too complicated for me. I think i'll just add the caps directly.
Hey there just got the ultra vibrato. Is it possible to do this did mod without adding a switch?? If so, how do we do that??
Cheers
does this mode affect lacht unlatch function ?
Nope!
@@guitargas1894 awww jiiss, thank you !
So how many Behringer pedals have you broken? How many people do you know that have broken more than one? Why does everybody just repeat what they've heard and read...that "they aren't made to last" ? When they likely have zero experience with multiple Behringer pedals breaking(or even a single pedal) to say they aren't made to last. I have one from 2006 that's still working fine. If they were as crappy as you all make them out to be, it shouldn't have last more than a year or 2 🤷
That's the one thing I've noticed more than anything. Guitar players will repeat something as fact just because they hear it enough times and without having any personal experience or any facts to back up their claims.
And no, I didn't have 10 pedals and they all broke except this one. This is the only one and it's been working fine since 2006. The original owner gave it to me last January when I started learning to play. He used it for 13 years until I got it.
I quit drinking in January.....grrrrr, don't tempt me.
No man, good for you, keep at it !
Apple Juice my friend.
Same color.
Soldano999 As what, urine?
@@aollerhead11 pissky
I wanna quit too, he has the best brand of whiskey in this video, and the best cheap pedal mod
I cant for the life of me figure out how you soldered the switch
Not sure how I can make it clearer 🤷🏻you can always do it without the switch
@@guitargas1894 I should be able to figure it out by following the diagram, I just can't relate the diagram to the images when I pause the video, doing it today so we'll soon find out, thanks!
4:27 im 13-
I’m garbage at soldering, so probably wouldn’t do this.